Characteristics of eating culture in Japan

Isao Kumakura President, Shizuoka University of Art and Culture Director, Hayashibara Museum of Art
Sakizuke, appetizer in Japanese cuisine

Roots in the natural environment Japan is a long island about 3,500 km in length from north-east to southwest, situated in the Pacific Ocean to the east of the Eurasian bloc. The surrounding sea is a mixture of warm and cold streams, giving abundant varieties of fish. The Japanese climate is characterized by warm monsoons, although the northern region is temperate and the southern islands subtropical. As a result, distinct changes over four seasons are experienced, which has been an important factor in Japanese cuisine. There are two rainy seasons in Japan. One is in June (Tsuyu: plum rain) and the other is in September ( Akisame : autumn rain). The annual rainfall averages 2,000 mm, so fresh water is abundant. This water provides benefits to Japanese agriculture, allowing cultivation of rice, vegetables and fruit. Thanks to its widespread availability, extensive water use is characteristic of Japanese cuisine. About 70% of the land in Japan is mountainous, with very few plains. The mountains are covered with deep forest.

Religious taboos against killing animals made it unpopular to raise and kill cattle, sheep and pigs for food until the mid19th century. However, after the opening of the country to the world in 1854, meat dishes and dairy products were accepted and rapidly became popular. Sukiyaki and shabu-shabu were created as distinct Japanese dishes, and production of high-quality meat in the form of Wagyu (Japanese beef) was developed. Thus, meat eating culture has existed since the Meiji era (1868-), but the traditional Japanese food culture is based on rice, fish and vegetables, which are considered to be gifts of nature. Raw ingredients A primary characteristic of Japanese cuisine is the enjoyment of the raw taste of food, without using strongly-avoured sauces. Typical examples are sashimi (raw fish slices) and sushi (vinegared rice topped with raw fish). Sashimi is prepared simply by cutting fresh fish. Freshness is ensured by various methods and hygiene is carefully maintained. Cutting methods were also developed

specically to maintain good taste. The knife used to cut sashimi is a long knife beveled on one side. The sharpness of the edge and the slicing method involves pulling the knife on the sh, which does not damage the tissues, maintaining its umami (savouriness). Itamae (specialist chefs of Japanese cuisine) make the technique look easy, but it requires extensive training. Sushi is similar, maintaining the tissue fluid in the slices of fish, so its taste in combination with the sushi rice can be appreciated. Shoyu (soy sauce) enhances the avor of the raw sh. Shoyu is made from soy fermented for a long time. To enjoy the fresh taste of seasonal products, Japanese cooking time for roasting and broiling is kept relatively short. In contrast, shoyu

Sashimi, raw sh slices, soy sauce (right), and chopsticks (lower edge)

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and miso (fermented soybean paste) require long fermentation times, from 3 months to more than a year, to mature. Umami (savouriness) is a characteristic taste of Japanese food. Taste bud sensors for sweet, sour, salty and bitter avours have been known for a long time. (Spicy hotness is felt by pain sensors, so are not included as scientically dened tastes). The umami receptor was discovered and conrmed by Japanese researchers. The main components of umami are glutamic acid, inosinic acid, and guanyl acid, that are abundant in kelp seaweed (kombu), dried bonito fish flakes ( katsuo ), and dried mushrooms (shiitake). The umami provided by kelp and bonito are fundamentals of Japanese cuisine, and are used in various ways in soup, broiled vegetables, sushi, etc. The arrangement of dishes is another important factor in Japanese cuisine. Colorful dishes arranged according to a traditional pattern are beautiful and stimulating to the appetite. Plates and bowls are carefully presented to make a visually attractive combination with their contents to express seasonal feelings.

Japan is also known for having a large variety of plates and bowls in different sizes and designs. Rice and miso soup A typical Japanese meal basically has four components: rice, miso soup, the main dish(es), and pickles. Rice is the staple component and lies at the core of Japanese food culture. Japanese rice is a sticky Japonica species; when steamed it has a characteristic taste with a slight sweetness. It contains many of the necessary nutritional elements, so the addition of suitable amounts of animal protein and fat make for a complete diet. Soup is usually sipped slowly throughout a meal. Miso soup is made by dissolving miso in dashi-jiru (a soup stock rich in umami). A small amount of seaweed or various seasonal vegetables are added; sometimes fish heads, shrimp or clams are used. Rice and soup in bowls form a basic pair. Side dishes support the main bowl of rice. Three kinds of side dishes are prepared at home: fish, vegetables and pickles. Social changes have led to

the number of dishes increasing, and consumption of rice decreasing, such that the distinction between the main dish and side dishes has become unclear Japanese pickles are fermented vegetables, and there are different kinds such as bran pickles, salt pickles, and sakekasu (Japanese wine lees) pickles. A suitable weight is applied to the vegetables during fermentation, decreasing their water content and improving their umami and avor. Ko-no-mono refers to pickles with good avor, which clean the mouth and stimulate the appetite. These characteristic components of rice (the main staple) together with ichi-jusansai (miso soup and three side dishes) thus form the basis of traditional home cuisine. Eat Japanese cuisine The characteristic way of eating Japanese cuisine is to alternate between eating the rice, soup and side dishes. This is the normal way of eating daily at home; in Japanese restaurants, food is served course-by-course in forms such as kaiseki, with rice and miso soup usually appearing last, making the eating order similar to western cuisine. Hashi (chopsticks) are the implements used for eating. Japanese attach importance to cleanliness, so disposable chopsticks are used in most eateries. Individual chopsticks are used at home, some of which are beautifully made from wood and decorated with lacquer paint. Japanese chopsticks are short

Maccha and yokan, Green tea and Japanese sweet made from red bean paste covered by soy bean powder

with thin ends compared to Chinese

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ones. Some Korean chopsticks are made from metal, but Japanese chopsticks are usually made from wood or bamboo or plastic. Chopsticks are very convenient for picking up small things and breaking up large things into smaller pieces. Japanese cuisine is made to be eaten using chopsticks, so foods are typically cut into small pieces before serving, or broiled until soft to allow them to be cut using chopsticks. Spoons are not generally used in Japanese cuisine, so miso soup is generally sipped directly from the edge of the bowl. The soup is very hot, so one should carefully sip a small amount at a time. Holding the bowl in one hand and sipping directly from it is correct etiquette in Japan. Japanese consider sharing a meal to be an important part of the hospitality shown to guests. In this case, not only the taste of the meal, but the design and decoration of plates and bowls to express seasonal beauty is important. Appropriate selection of food and plates can be used to express a sense of celebration, or of sorrow. Decoration of

the room, with ower arrangements and paintings selected to t the atomosphere, is also important in the sharing of a meal with guests. This is all to say that eating plays an important role in Japanese culture. To express gratitude to the host, a guest will say ita-daki-masu before eating, and gochi-so-sama after finishing a meal; these are basic manners even at home that include thanks not only to people, but also to nature, for providing the meal. Epilogue Japanese cuisine is nutritionally well-balanced and healthy, which has resulted in the longevity of the Japanese population. From a health perspective, green tea and Japanese cakes are also noteworthy. Green tea contains antioxidants such as catechin; Japanese sweets do not contain butter and cream, so they are ideal as part of a low calorie diet. These are served as a dessert after a Japanese course-based meal. Japanese sake (Japanese rice wine) is also a good appetizer and enhances the mood during

eating. Knowledge of and interest in Japanese cuisine exists throughout the world. The increasing number of Japanese restaurants in the world is welcomed because Japanese cuisine is not only healthy and tasty, but also emphasizes communication between host and guest. In contrast, young people in Japan today exhibit poor eating habits under the inuence of globalization, such as eating excessive amounts of high energy foods with bad nutritional balance. The Japanese Government passed the Shokuiku Basic Act in 2005 to try to maintain traditional cultural eating habits. Many NGOs are collaborating in the education of young people to enable them to select foods wisely. Wo r l d w i d e p r o b l e m s , s u c h a s environmental change, lack of energy and water resources, increasing obesity, etc. have grown more serious in recent years. The global spreading of the lowcalorie, healthy diet offered by Japanese cuisine could contribute to resolving some of these problems.

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