Above the Delta: Crowleys Ridge

Tommy W. Wilson

Cloudscape over the Arkansas Delta, 2011.

Rising more than 550 feet above the Mississippi embayment, Crowleys Ridge is somewhat of a geological oddity. There are competing theories on the origin of this formation, such as the ridge serving as an island between the Mississippi River and the Ohio River dating back over 50 million years. Another theory states that it was created by glaciers during the last Great Ice Age depositing gravel and sand. Since pre-history, people have used the ridge to traverse what was, before the advent of levees and flood control, a vast swamp spreading from the Mississippi River westward to near Little Rock. This high ground provided shelter for Native Americans, a wagon trail for the first settlers, and battle positions in the American Civil War. Crowleys Ridge draws its name from Benjamin Crowley, the first settler of European descent in the area, who carved out a small homestead around 1820 near present-day Paragould, AR. Today, his homestead is a state park bearing his name. Growing up in the area around Crowleys Ridge, many people saw a difference between those who lived on the ridge and those who lived in the bottom lands. This difference is even seen in the agrarian culture of the area, where most people whom live in the alluvial plains east of the ridge are farmers of cotton, soybeans, and corn. Those who live west of the ridge mostly farm rice and wheat. The denizens of the ridge typically raise cattle and horses or other beasts of burden. I remember as a child hearing comments that ridge folk were Texans that wandered into Northeast Arkansas. I have spent the last two years photographing The Arkansas Delta, that former swamp which stretches from the Missouri border to the Louisiana and from the Mississippi river in the east to the curving arc of the Ozark and Ouachita Mountains in the West. I have generally ignored the ridge, mainly because it did not fit the aesthetic or cultural study I had planned for the area. Now, I wish to study this formation, its ecology, and its peoples. Is it really possible that a maximum of 550 feet of geographical elevation can separate a people? If so, what is the cause of this difference? Geologically speaking, the landforms more closely mimic the Appalachians, several hundred miles to the East than the much closer Ozark Plateau. Rolling terraces across the eastern side of the delta lead to a sharp rise at the ridge, which is riddled with great valleys and vistas. Where erosion has cut vast canyons, sedimentary deposits and fossilized seabed remains are found, formations which are seen nowhere else in the area.

Ecologically speaking, the flora and fauna also mimic a disparate area, some from the Appalachians, some from the Rocky Mountains, and some from the upper Midwest. On the whole, most of the species represented are relics from a different era of time and climate. The Crowleys Ridge acts as a bubble, protecting these species from change. However, this bubble is under threat. Increased building activities have led to increased extraction of the sands and red clays of the area. Entire forests are being removed for lumber, and in their place high end subdivisions are being constructed for those who consider the ridge an exclusive area. This idea further supports my theory of two separate cultures coexisting in this area, only separated by elevation. I propose studying this area and its juxtaposition to the surrounding plains by travelling two roads, the Crowleys Ridge Parkway and the Arkansas/Missouri segment of The Great River Road. The Crowleys Ridge parkway is a term given to a collection of highways, secondary roads, and even gravel roads which traverse the ridge between Helena, Arkansas and Kennett Missouri. It was designated by the State of Arkansas in 1997, was given National Scenic Byway status in 1998, and expanded by the State of Missouri in 2000. While the parkway ends at Kennett, I intend to travel continue travelling north along the ridge to near New Madrid, Missouri where I will turn south onto The Great River Road. The Great River Road follows the route of the Mississippi River, and was created by a consortium of states beginning in 1938. The route was designated as a National Scenic Byway in 2000. Some segments still do not have National recognition, such as the route through Missouri. Driving south along this road, I will never be more than 60 miles from the Crowley s Ridge. Upon my return to Helena, Arkansas, I will have completed a nearly equidistant circuit through the towns, businesses, and homes of these two peoples, geographically close but culturally separate. To complete this artistic and anthropological endeavour, I will heavily photograph the area utilizing large format films, both colour and monochromatic. While travelling, contact will be made with local Chambers of Commerce and Historical Societies to find long-time residents, business owners, and those who recently moved into the area. This will allow me to gather first hand research through interviews in an attempt to identify what makes ridge towns and delta towns so different. The intended outcome of this project is two-fold. First, an academic report will be prepared containing my findings as to the origins and validity of this perceived difference. This type of research falls in direct opposition of previous research of the area, which focused on geology and ecology. Some basic historical research has been completed, but an anthropological study of the peoples has not yet been attempted. Second, keeping in line with my degree programme in art, the more anecdotal stories collected will be combined with the photographs captured during the research into an exhibition and further expanded into a book on the area which will be part travelogue, part oral history, and part artistic monograph. I conceived of this idea as my parting gift to the University of Memphis. In my four plus years at this institution, I have completed multiple projects. Furthermore, I enjoy blurring the lines between disciplines with projects such as my recently completed honours thesis blending art with chemistry. Earlier in my academic career, I completed a project blending art and horticulture which drew attention

to blighted areas of Memphis. In the words of one of my role models, Dr. Edwin Land, Don't undertake a project unless it is manifestly important and nearly impossible. I believe this project to be manifestly important, though it is definitely not impossible. I have been proud to announce myself as a University of Memphis student, and believe this project will serve as a fitting end to my time here. I appreciate consideration by the committee of this project for funding.