SIZE One FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Leg span: 14 inches MATERIALS Cascade 220 Wool [100% Peruvian Highland Wool;

220 yards/201 meters per 100g skein]; 1 skein each color [MC] #2427 Glamour [CC] #8021 Beige Recommended needle size: 1 set US #6/4mm double-point needles Split ring marker or safety pin Waste yarn Black embroidery thread Tapestry needle Two 9 mm black safety eyes Polyfil stuffing GAUGE 24 sts/30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch Note: To obtain a firm fabric, yarn is worked at a tighter

gauge than is recommended on the ball band. PATTERN NOTES alt alternate approx approximately beg begin[ning] blocking Information about blocking can be found here and here. BO bind off [cast off] cab cable CC contrasting color cn cable needle CO cast on cont continue[ing] dec decrease[ing] dpn double pointed needles[s] foll follow[s][ing] g grams i-cord When working I-cord, work is not turned. Instead of turning the work around to work back on the WS, slide all sts to the other end of the needle, switch the needle back to your left hand, bring the yarn around the back of the work, and start knitting the sts again. After the first 2 sts, give the yarn a sharp tug. Repeat this row to form I-cord. After a few rows, the work will begin to form a tube. inc increase[ing] incl including inst instructions k knit k tbl knit through back of loop k2tog knit two together kfb knit into front and back of stitch m meter[s] MB make bobble

MC m1

main color Make 1 stitch: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased. mm millimeters mult multiple opp opposite oz ounces p purl p2tog purl two together patt[s] pattern[s] pfb purl into front and back of stitch pm place marker psso pass slipped stitch[es] over rem remaining rep repeat rev St st reverse stockinette stitch RS right side[s] rnd[s] round[s] sc single crochet SK2P slip 1 stitch, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over SSK slip 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit those 2 stitches together SSP slip 2 stitches as if to purl, then purl those 2 stitches together sl slip slp slip one as if to purl sl st slip stitch st[s] stitch[es] St st stockinette stitch tbl through back of loop[s] tog together

WS w&t

YO * *

wrong side[s] Wrap and turn. If yarn is at front of work, bring it between needles to back of work; if it at back of work, bring it between needles to front of work. Slip next st, and bring yarn between needles, returning it to its previous position. Turn work, to begin working next row. On a subsequent row, when working a st that has been wrapped, slip the st to the right needle, use the left needle to pick up the wrap, slip the st back to the left needle and work the wrap and st together as one st. yarn over repeat directions between ** as many times as indicated

Like most knitted toys, gauge isn't super-important. Just make sure that the polyfil isn't peaking out when the crab is getting stuffed. The upper shell of the crab is knit in the round from the outer edge, decreasing towards the center. Stitches for the lower body are picked up then knit in the round, and decreasing towards the center. MB: Make bobble. K into front, then back, then front again, of same stitch: 1 st increased to 3 sts. Turn work, p3. Turn work, k3. Turn work, p3. Turn work, k3tog: 3 sts decreased to 1 st. 3x3 Rib (Worked in the round over a multiple of 6 sts): All Rounds: [K3, p3] to end. DIRECTIONS

UPPER SHELL Using MC, CO 96 sts onto double-point needles. Divide sts between needles and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place split ring marker or safety pin in work to indicate beginning of round. Work 3 rounds in 3x3 Rib, W&T at end of last round. Shape Edge of Shell: This sequence of short rows is worked in order to raise the edge of the shell above the point where the mouth will be. Row 1 [WS]: P81, W&T. Row 2 [RS]: K4, [k2tog, k6] 9 times, k2tog, k4, W&T. 86 sts remain. Row 3 [WS]: P73, W&T. Row 4 [RS]: K74, W&T. Row 5 [WS]: P75, W&T. Row 6 [RS]: K2, [k2tog, k5] 10 times, k2tog, k2, W&T. 75 sts remain. Row 7 [WS]: P66, W&T. Row 8 [RS]: [K4, (MB, k7) 3 times, MB, k4] twice, k1, W&T. Row 9 [WS]: P68, W&T. Row 10 [RS]: K1, [k2tog, k4] 11 times, k2tog. 63 sts remain. Do not turn work. This point will now be beginning of round. Redistribute sts as necessary and place split ring

marker or safety pin in work to indicate beginning of round. Shape Top of Shell: Round 1: [K13, MB] twice, k12, MB, k13, MB, k8. Even-Numbered Rounds 2-8: K all sts. Round 3: [K5, k2tog] 9 times. 54 sts. Round 5: [K4, k2tog] 9 times. 45 sts. Round 7: [K3, k2tog] 9 times. 36 sts. Round 9: [K2, k2tog] 9 times. 27 sts. Round 10: [K1, k2tog] 9 times. 18 sts. Round 11: [K2tog] 9 times. Break yarn, draw through remaining 9 sts and pull tight. Thread yarn through sts again to secure. Attach safety eyes to face of crab, on either side of raised portion of edge, using photo as guide.

LOWER BODY With WS facing and using MC, pick up and k 96 sts along last round of 3x3 Rib. (The CO edge and first 2 rows of the

upper shell form a ridge, which will protrude over the edge of the lower body.) Place split ring marker or safety pin in work to indicate beginning of round. Break MC; from this point, lower body will be worked using CC. Round 1: Using CC, k tbl all sts. Round 2: [K9, k2tog] 8 times, k8. 88 sts. Odd-Numbered Rounds 3-11: K all sts. Round 4: [K8, k2tog] 8 times, k8. 80 sts. Round 6: [K7, k2tog] 8 times, k8. 72 sts. Round 8: [K6, k2tog] 9 times. 63 sts. Round 10: [K5, k2tog] 9 times. 54 sts. Round 12: [K4, k2tog] 9 times. 45 sts. Round 13: K all sts. Crab will be stuffed at this point, before knitting is completed. Before stuffing, draw all yarn ends to inside of body and weave in just enough to secure. Ends do not need to be woven in invisibly or attractively, as they will be hidden. Lightly stuff body. Round 14: [K3, k2tog] 9 times. 36 sts. Round 15: K all sts. Round 16: [K2, k2tog] 9 times. 27 sts. Round 17: [K1, k2tog] 9 times. 18 sts. Round 18: [K2tog] 9 times. Add more stuffing to achieve desired firmness. Break yarn, draw through remaining 9 sts and pull tight. Thread yarn through sts again to secure. BACK LEGS (Make 6) Tip: When casting on, leave a tail approx. 12 inches long, to be used for sewing leg onto body. You may find it easier to stuff leg as it is worked, instead of waiting until leg is complete. Using MC, CO 15 sts onto double-point needles. Divide sts between needles and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place split ring marker or safety pin in work to indicate beginning of round. Rounds 1-20: K all sts.

Round 21 [first decrease round]: [K3, k2tog] 3 times. 12 sts. Rounds 22-31: K all sts. Round 32 [second decrease round]: [K2, k2tog] 3 times. 9 sts. Rounds 33-37: K all sts. Round 38: [K1, k2tog] 3 times. Break yarn, draw through remaining 6 sts and pull tight. Thread yarn through sts again to secure. Weave ends inside the leg. Lightly stuff leg. Be careful not to overstuff, or leg will be too stiff. Form Joints: Cut an 8-inch piece of MC. Tie tightly around leg at the first decrease round (Round 21). Use tapestry needle to draw ends through to other side of leg, so that one end is at either side of piece of yarn circling leg. Tie ends into a square knot, then sew ends securely into leg. Form a second joint in the same way, around second decrease round (Round 32).

FRONT LEGS (Make 2) Using MC, CO 12 sts onto double-point needles. Divide sts between needles and join to work in the round, being

careful not to twist. Place split ring marker or safety pin in work to indicate beginning of round. K 15 rounds. Next Round: K6, place remaining 6 sts on hold on waste yarn; CO 3 sts and join to continue working in the round. 9 sts. First Claw: K 10 rounds. Next Round: [K1, k2tog] 3 times. Break yarn, draw through remaining 6 sts and pull tight. Thread yarn through sts again to secure. Weave end inside claw. Second Claw: Place held sts on needles and join yarn, leaving a tail. K held sts, CO 3 sts and join to work in the round. Work as for first claw. Use yarn tail between claws to sew CO edges of claws together, and secure end. Form a joint at base of claws, in the same way as joints for back legs. FINISHING Using tapestry needle and black embroidery thread, embroider a little mouth on the lower body, below the point where upper shell is raised. Sew legs to lower body of crab, using photos as guides.