SHELDON

SIZE Sheldon-size FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Width: Approx. 6 inches from paw to paw Length: Approx. 9 inches MATERIALS Knit Picks Shine Sport [60% pima cotton, 40% modal; 110 yd per 50g skein]; 1 skein each color [MC] Green Apple [CC] Grass 1 set US #3/3.25mm double-point needles 1 set US #4/3.5mm straight needles 1 US #D/3 / 3.25mm crochet hook 1 stitch marker Tapestry needle Two 9mm black acrylic safety eyes with plastic washers Polyester stuffing or cotton batting GAUGE 25 sts/34 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US #4/3.5mm needles Achieving the recommended gauge is not crucial for this project. However, it is desirable to knit the pieces -- particularly the body -tightly enough that the stuffing is not visible when the knitted fabric is slightly stretched. This will require you to get somewhere in the neighborhood of the given gauge, even if this means going down a needle size or two.

The head and body are knit in one piece on double-pointed needles, with four limbs knit separately and sewn on. The upper shell is knit in two pieces, then a third panel is worked separately with holes for the limbs, and is attached to the shell top with an I-Cord edging. Because the shell must stretch over the turtle's body and attach to the panel underneath, it is important not to overstuff the shell. Light padding is sufficient to give the desired shape. Directions are given for using stitch markers to mark the beginning of each round, but they are not strictly necessary. If you prefer, a split ring marker or safety pin may be placed in the work to mark the beginning of the round. Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast On: Make a slip knot with the working yarn and place it on the needle. For this cast on you only need to leave a short tail -- you'll be working with the yarn coming from the skein. Hold the needle and one end of the waste yarn in your right hand.

*Move the working yarn in front of and under the waste yarn...

...then in front of and over the needle.*

Repeat from * to * until you have the required number of loops of working yarn on the needle. End by moving the working yarn in front of and under the waste yarn. Make sure you have an equal number of stitches around the waste yarn as you have on the needle.

Here is what it will look like after you've removed the needle(s) and worked a few rows...

I realize that the loops around the waste yarn look impossibly large and sloppy, but after you replace them on the needles and work a row

or two in the opposite direction you'll see that it actually doesn't show at all...

Backwards loop cast on Also known as the "single cast on" this is the simpliest cast on of all. It can be used for casting on stitches in the middle of a row (as for a buttonhole) but it is all too often quite sloppy and loose. If you need to cast on in the middle or at the end of a row, it's often better to do so by knitting on (see last issue). I'm including it now because the tubular cast on that I'll be talking about
next uses it as its base.

To work this cast on, simply make a backwards loop and place it on the needle.

Repeat until you have as many stitches as you require.

Tubular cast on The tubular cast on is, to put it mildly, a gorgeous way to cast on for working ribbing and has been praised for its loveliness all over the knitting blogosphere. Using a spare piece of yarn cast on half the number of stitches you need using the backwards loop cast on. (If you don't know what that is then you're not reading the entire article. Go back one technique.) Then, using the working yarn, purl one row. Now take a minute to look at what we've just done. Notice that there are purl bumps of the blue working yarn peeking out from between the loops of the wine colored waste yarn. We'll be using those bumps in a couple of minutes, so remember what they look like.

Then work 3 more rows in stocking stitch (knit one row, purl one row, knit one row) and turn the work so the purl side is facing you for the following bit. Purl the first stitch. Next insert the right needle into the first purl bump way back down on that first row you purled -- the ones were just inspecting.

Slip the loop onto the left hand needle and knit it through the back loop.

Continue across the row, purling 1 stitch, then picking up and knitting tbl the next purl bump until you come to the last stitch. Purl the last stitch, the pick up the loop at the selvedge edge and knit through the back loop. Turn and work ribbing, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches. Remove the waste yarn by cutting between some of the stitches and tugging to remove lengths of yarn.

Body The body is knit from the tail to the head. Using MC and double-point needles, CO 6 stitches. Divide sts evenly between three needles. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Round 1: [Kfb] in each st. 12 sts. Round 2: K all sts. Round 3: [Kfb, k1] twice, [kfb] twice, [k1, kfb] twice, k2. 18 sts. Round 4: K all sts. Round 5: [Kfb, k2] six times. 24 sts. Rounds 6-9: K all sts. Round 10: [Kfb, k3] twice, kfb, k4, [kfb, k3] twice, kfb, k2. 30 sts. Round 11: K all sts. Round 12: [Kfb, k4] twice, kfb, k6, [kfb, k4] twice, kfb, k2. 36 sts. Round 13: K all sts. Round 14: [Kfb, k5] twice, kfb, k8, [kfb, k5] twice, kfb, k2. 42 sts. Rounds 15-18: K all sts. Round 19: K8, ssk, k20, k2tog, k10. 40 sts. Even-numbered rounds 20-38: K all sts. Round 21: K8, ssk, k18, k2tog, k10. 38 sts. Round 23: K8, ssk, k16, k2tog, k10. 36 sts. Round 25: K8, ssk, k14, k2tog, k10. 34 sts. Round 27: K8, ssk, k12, k2tog, k10. 32 sts. Round 29: K8, ssk, k10, k2tog, k10. 30 sts. Round 31: K8, ssk, k8, k2tog, k10. 28 sts. Round 33: K8, ssk, k6, k2tog, k10. 26 sts. Round 35: K2tog, k6, ssk, k4, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2. 22 sts. Round 37: K2tog, k5, ssk, k2, k2tog, k5, ssk, k2. 18 sts. Round 39: K2tog, k4, ssk, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2. 14 sts. Rounds 40-45: K all sts. Round 46: Kfb, k2, kfb, k1, [kfb] twice, k1, [kfb, k2] twice. 20 sts. Odd-numbered rounds 47-59: K all sts. Round 48: Kfb, k3, [kfb, k2] three times, kfb, k3, kfb, k2. 26 sts. Round 50: [Kfb, k4, kfb, k3] twice, kfb, k4, kfb, k2. 32 sts. Round 52: Kfb, k5, kfb, k16, kfb, k5, kfb, k2. 36 sts. Round 54: Kfb, k6, kfb, k18, kfb, k6, kfb, k2. 40 sts. Round 56: Kfb, k7, kfb, k20, kfb, k7, kfb, k2. 44 sts. Round 58: Kfb, k8, kfb, k22, kfb, k8, kfb, k2. 48 sts. Round 60: Kfb, k9, kfb, k24, kfb, k9, kfb, k2. 52 sts. Rounds 61-65: K all sts. Round 66: K2tog, k9, ssk, k24, k2tog, k9, ssk, k2. 48 sts. Odd-numbered rounds 67-77. K all sts.

Round 68: K2tog, k8, ssk, k22, k2tog, k8, ssk, k2. 44 sts. Round 70: K2tog, k7, ssk, k20, k2tog, k7, ssk, k2. 40 sts. Round 72: K2tog, k6, ssk, k18, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2. 36 sts. Round 74: K2tog, k5, ssk, k16, k2tog, k5, ssk, k2. 32 sts. Round 76: K2tog, k4, ssk, k3, ssk, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2. 26 sts. Round 78: K2tog, k3, ssk, k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k3, ssk, k2. 20 sts. Round 79: K all sts. At this point, cut off all but 1-2 inches of the CO tail, and pull the yarn end into the body with the crochet hook. Attach safety eyes to head, using diagram as a placement guide, and stuff the body to desired firmness to almost the top of the head. Take care to stuff the neck particularly firmly so that the head does not flop around. Round 80: K2tog, k2, ssk, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2. 14 sts. Round 81: K all sts. Round 82: K2tog, k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1, ssk, k2. 10 sts. Round 83: K all sts. Round 84: K2tog, ssk, k2tog, ssk, k2. 6 sts. Finish stuffing head to the top. Stuffing firmly all the way to the tip of the "mouth" helps to ensure that the face is not too pointy. Break yarn. Using tapestry needle, thread yarn tail through all 6 stitches, beginning with first k2tog and ending with the last st you knit. Pull tightly to close, tie a knot near the opening, cut off all but 12 inches of the yarn tail, and use the crochet hook to pull it into the body. Limbs (Make 4) Using MC and double-point needles, CO 12 sts, leaving a tail at least 12 inches long. Divide sts evenly between three needles. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Rounds 1-14: K all sts. Round 15: [Kfb, k5] twice. 14 sts. Rounds 16-20: K all sts. Round 21: [K2tog] 7 times. Break yarn. Using tapestry needle, thread yarn tail through all 7 stitches, beginning with first k2tog and ending with the last st you knit. Pull tightly to close. Push needle through opening and turn limb inside out. Make small knot inside and trim yarn end. Turn right side out. Shell

Note: When working the shell, the color not in use may be carried loosely up the side of the work, as it will not show once the turtle is completed. Using MC and straight needles, CO 12 sts. Rows 1-2: K all sts. Row 3 [RS]: Join CC. Kfb, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k1. 13 sts. Row 4 [WS]: Pfb, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p2. 14 sts. Row 5 [RS]: Kfb, k1, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k2. 15 sts. Row 6 [WS]: Pfb, p1, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p3. 16 sts. Row 7 [RS]: Kfb, k2, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k3. 17 sts. Row 8 [WS]: Pfb, p2, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p4. 18 sts. Switch to MC. Rows 9-10: Kfb, k to end. 20 sts when Row 10 is complete. Switch to CC. Row 11 [RS]: Kfb, [sl 2, k6] twice, sl 2, k1. 21 sts. Row 12 [WS]: Pfb, [sl 2, p6] twice, sl 2, p2. 22 sts. Row 13 [RS]: Kfb, k1, [sl 2, k6] twice, sl 2, k2. 23 sts. Row 14 [WS]: Pfb, p1, [sl 2, p6] twice, sl 2, p3. 24 sts. Row 15 [RS]: Kfb, k2, [sl 2, k6] twice, sl 2, k3. 25 sts. Row 16 [WS]: Pfb, p2, [sl 2, p6] twice, sl 2, p4. 26 sts. Switch to MC. Rows 17-18: Kfb, k to end. 28 sts when Row 18 is complete. Switch to CC. Row 19 [RS]: Kfb, [sl 2, k6] three times, sl 2, k1. 29 sts. Row 20 [WS]: Pfb, [sl 2, p6] three times, sl 2, p2. 30 sts. Row 21 [RS]: Kfb, k1, [sl 2, k6] three times, sl 2, k2. 31 sts. Row 22 [WS]: Pfb, p1, [sl 2, p6] three times, sl 2, p3. 32 sts. Row 23 [RS]: Kfb, k2, [sl 2, k6] three times, sl 2, k3. 33 sts. Row 24 [WS]: Pfb, p2, [sl 2, p6] three times, sl 2, p4. 34 sts. Switch to MC. Rows 25-26: Kfb, k to end. 36 sts when Row 26 is complete. Switch to CC. Row 27 [RS]: K1, sl 2, [k6, sl 2] four times, k1. Row 28 [WS]: P1, [sl 2, p6] four times, sl 2, p1. Rows 29-32: Repeat rows 27- 28 twice. Switch to MC.

Rows 33-34: K all sts. Switch to CC. Row 35 [RS]: K2tog, k3, sl 2, [k6, sl 2] three times, k5. 35 sts. Row 36 [WS]: P2tog, p3, sl 2, [p6, sl 2] three times, p4. 34 sts. Row 37 [RS]: K2tog, k2, sl 2 [k6, sl 2] three times, k4. 33 sts. Row 38 [WS]: P2tog, p2, sl 2, [p6, sl 2] three times, p3. 32 sts. Row 39 [RS]: K2tog, k1, sl 2, [k6, sl 2] three times, k3. 31 sts. Row 40 [WS]: P2tog, p1, sl 2, [p6, sl 2] three times, p2. 30 sts. Switch to MC. Rows 41-42: K2tog, k to end. 28 sts when Row 42 is complete. Switch to CC. Row 43 [RS]: K2tog, k3, sl 2, [k6, sl 2] twice, k5. 27 sts. Row 44 [WS]: P2tog, p3, sl 2, [p6, sl 2] twice, p4. 26 sts. Row 45 [RS]: K2tog, k2, sl 2 [k6, sl 2] twice, k4. 25 sts. Row 46 [WS]: P2tog, p2, sl 2, [p6, sl 2] twice, p3. 24 sts. Row 47 [RS]: K2tog, k1, sl 2, [k6, sl 2] twice, k3. 23 sts. Row 48 [WS]: P2tog, p1, sl 2, [p6, sl 2] twice, p2. 22 sts. Switch to MC. Rows 49-50: K2tog, k to end. 20 sts when Row 42 is complete. Switch to CC. Row 51 [RS]: K2tog, k3, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k5. 19 sts. Row 52 [WS]: P2tog, p3, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p4. 18 sts. Row 53 [RS]: K2tog, k2, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k4. 17 sts. Row 54 [WS]: P2tog, p2, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p3. 16 sts. Row 55 [RS]: K2tog, k1, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k3. 15 sts. Row 56 [WS]: P2tog, p1, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p2. 14 sts. Switch to MC. Rows 57-58: K2tog, k to end. 12 sts when Row 58 is complete. Row 59 [RS]: BO all sts. Break yarn and weave in ends on WS.

Shell Bottom Using CC and straight needles, CO 10 sts. Odd-numbered Rows 1-21 [RS]: K1, kfb, k to end. Even-numbered Rows 2-20 [WS]: P1, pfb, p to end. 31 sts when Row 21 is complete. Even-numbered Rows 22-42 [WS]: P1, p2tog, p to end. Odd-numbered Rows 23-41 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end. 10 sts when Row 42 is complete. Row 43 [RS]: BO all sts. Break yarn and weave in ends on WS. Using a length of CC yarn and tapestry needle and holding shell and shell bottom with WS together, attach shell bottom to shell top, centering shell bottom a few stitches in from the edge all the way around. Use any seaming method you like, as long as it is invisible on the RS and will not allow the stuffing to escape; this seam will not show. When seam is three-quarters complete, stuff the shell lightly. Complete seam, tie a small knot, break yarn, and hide ends using crochet hook or tapestry needle. Shell Attachment Panel Using MC and straight needles, CO 16 sts. Odd-numbered Rows 1-9 [RS]: K1, kfb, k to end. Even-numbered Rows 2-8 [WS]: P1, pfb, p to end. 25 sts when Row 9 is complete. Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 [WS]: BO 6 sts, p to end. 19 sts. [RS]: BO 6 sts, k to end. 13 sts. [WS]: P all sts. [RS]: K all sts, CO 8 sts using backward loop method. 21 sts. [WS]: P all sts, CO 8 sts using backward loop method. 29 sts. [RS]: K all sts. [WS]: P1, pfb, p to end. 30 sts. [RS]: K1, kfb, k to end. 31 sts. [WS]: P1, pfb, p to end. 32 sts. [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end. 31 sts. [WS]: P1, p2tog, p to end. 30 sts. [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end. 29 sts. [WS]: BO 8 sts, p to end. 21 sts. [RS]: BO 8 sts, k to end. 13 sts. [WS]: P all sts. [RS]: K all sts, CO 6 sts using backward loop method. 19 sts.

Row 26 [WS]: P all sts, backward loop method.

CO 6 sts using 25 sts.

Row 27 [RS]: K all sts. Even-numbered Rows 28-36 [WS]: P1, p2tog, p to end. Odd-numbered Rows 29-35 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end. sts. 16 sts when Row 36 is complete. Row 37 [RS]: BO all sts. Insert crochet hook into last st and work single crochet along edge of piece to the first leg hole; fold piece so that corners of leg hole meet, and continue to work single crochet around edge of piece, joining corners of remaining leg holes in the same way. You will have a little bowl-shaped piece of knitting with four leg holes. Work a second round of single crochet, break yarn, draw through last st and pull tight. Weave in end on WS.

FINISHING Using CC and two double-point needles, connect the shell to the belly piece using a four-stitch attached I-Cord as follows: CO 4 sts. Slide sts to other end of dpn. Pulling yarn tightly across back of sts on needle, k3, sl 1. Line up shell and attachment panel with WS together, holding attachment panel facing you. Beginning on the top left side of the attachment panel, pick up and knit one stitch through the edges of both pieces held together. Note: The st you want on the attachment panel is the crocheted st directly above the last of the 16 bound-off sts. On the shell, you want

to insert the needle into the MC edge st from the row that forms the base of the final row of "cells" on the shell, which is made up of one full cell and two partial cells. The I-Cord edging looks best if you pick up only the inside half of the st from both pieces rather than the entire st. Pass the slipped stitch over the picked-up stitch. *Slide sts to the other end of the dpn. Pulling yarn tight across the back, K3, sl picked-up st. Pick up and knit next st from the joined pieces and pass slipped st over.* Repeat from * to *, working your way around the shell. Be sure to center the area between the two limb openings on each side over the widest part of the shell, and the 16 bound-off sts along the bottom over the bottom row of cells (two partial cells and one whole cell). This might require you to skip a row now and then when picking up sts from the shell. When you have worked about two-thirds of the way around, insert the turtle body into the shell to check the fit, and determine how large the neck opening should be. When you reach the bottom of the final row of cells on the right side of the turtle directly across from where you began working I-Cord (or, if your turtle body is too large to accommodate such a small opening, when the neck opening is as small as it can be), continue I-Cord but pick up stitches through the shell only. Work to the point where you began, break yarn, thread needle and pull through all 4 sts. Sew ends of I-Cord together and weave in ends underneath the edging, where they will be inconspicuous. Attach Limbs Stuff the limbs, being sure to stuff the ends quite firmly and the tops more lightly. Sew the limbs to the body. To do this, thread the tapestry needle with the tail left from casting on. Position the limb against the body, using the diagram as a placement guide and checking placement against the fit of your turtle body inside the shell. Run the needle under the upside-down "V" of a stitch on the turtle body and then under a knitted "V" on the limb. Continue around until the limb is completely attached. You may need to use your crochet hook or needle to tighten or loosen the sts you have made in order to improve their appearance. Before finishing, recheck that the limb will fit through its opening properly when the turtle is inserted into the shell. Tie an inconspicuous knot with the remaining yarn, cut a 1-inch tail, and use the crochet hook to pull it

into the body.