Professional Documents
Culture Documents
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BRAKES
CONTENTS
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ABS BRAKE OPERATION AND SERVICE . . . . . . 51 ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS . . . . . . 8 DISC BRAKE ROTOR SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 DISC BRAKES2-WHEEL DRIVE . . . . . . . . . . . 27 DISC BRAKES4-WHEEL DRIVE . . . . . . . . . . . 34 DRUM BRAKES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 MASTER CYLINDERBRAKE FLUID BRAKELINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
PARKING BRAKES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 POWER BRAKE BOOSTERBRAKE PEDAL STOPLAMP SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 RWAL BRAKE OPERATION AND SERVICE . . . . 44 SERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
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BRAKES
HAZARD. NEVER CLEAN BRAKE COMPONENTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR BY DRY BRUSHING. USE A VACUUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO REMOVE ASBESTOS FIBERS. IF A SUITABLE VACUUM CLEANER IS NOT AVAILABLE, PERFORM CLEANING OPERATIONS WITH A WATER DAMPENED CLOTH. DO NOT CREATE DUST BY SANDING, OR GRINDING BRAKELINING. DISPOSE OF ALL DUST AND DIRT SUSPECTED OF CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS. FOLLOW ALL RECOMMENDED PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA) AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY (EPA) FOR HANDLING, PROCESSING, AND DISPOSITION OF MATERIAL THAT MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS.
CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing mineral oil to clean the system components. These fluids damage rubber cups and seals. If system contamination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discoloration, or separation into distinct layers. Drain and flush the system with new brake fluid if contamination is suspected.
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DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES
The diagnosis information in this section covers service brake components only. Antilock brake component diagnosis is covered in the antilock brake diagnosis section. Service brake components include front/rear brakeshoes, disc brake calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, support plates, brakelines, master cylinder, power brake booster, and parking brake components. Brake diagnosis involves determining if the problem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, vacuum, or electrically operated component. A preliminary check, road testing and component inspection can all be used to determine a problem cause. Road testing will either verify proper brake operation or confirm the existence of a problem. Component inspection will then identify the actual causal part.
(2) Inspect condition of tires and wheels. Damaged wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires can cause pull, shudder, tramp, and a condition similar to grab. (3) If complaint was based on noise when braking, check suspension components. Jounce front and rear of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering components. (4) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note that fluid level in disc brake reservoir section will decrease in proportion to lining wear. This is a normal condition. (a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evidence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brakelines and master cylinder. (b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a sample. If fluid is separated into layers, or obviously contains oil or a substance other than brake fluid, the system seals and cups will have to be replaced and the hydraulic system flushed. (5) Check parking brake operation. Verify free movement and full release of cables and foot pedal or hand lever. Also note if vehicle was being operated with parking brake partially applied. (6) Check brake pedal operation. Pedal should have adequate free play and not bind at any point of travel. If pedal lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test until condition is corrected. (7) If components checked appear OK, and brake action is sufficient to stop vehicle, proceed to road test. However, if brake action is impaired, do not road test vehicle. Instead, raise vehicle on hoist and disassemble/repair as needed.
ROAD TESTING
A road test will confirm or deny the existence of a problem. The final diagnosis procedure involves road test analysis and a visual inspection of brake components. (1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, make several low speed stops and note if pedal returns to
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normal height. If pedal drops off, or brake action is impaired, immediately return to shop and begin repair. (2) Check brake pedal response with transmission in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain firm under steady foot pressure. (3) During road test, make normal and firm brake stops in 20-35 mph range. Note faulty brake operation such as pull, grab, drag, noise, low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsation, etc. (4) Inspect brake components and refer to problem diagnosis information for causes of various brake conditions.
COMPONENT INSPECTION
Fluid leak points and dragging brake units can usually be located without removing any components. The area around a leak point will be wet with fluid. The components at a dragging brake unit (wheel, tire, rotor) will be quite warm or hot to the touch. Other brake problem conditions will require component removal for proper inspection. Raise the vehicle and remove the necessary wheel brake components for better visual access. During component inspection, pay particular attention to heavily rusted/corroded brake components (e.g. rotors, caliper pistons, brake return/holddown springs, support plates, etc.). Heavy accumulations of rust may be an indicator of rust and corrosion damage to a brake component. It is wise to remove surface rust in order to accurately determine the depth of rust penetration and damage. Light surface rust is fairly normal and not a major concern (as long as it is removed). However, heavy rust buildup, especially on high mileage vehicles, may actually cover structural damage to such important components as: brakelines; rotors; support plates; and brake booster.
SPONGY PEDAL A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the system. Thin brake drums or substandard brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to bleed the system and replace thin drums and suspect quality brake lines and hoses. HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or badly worn. The power booster or check valve could also be faulty. Test the booster and valve as described in this section. BRAKE DRAG Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only. It is a product of incomplete brakeshoe release. Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the linings, rotors and drums. Brake drag also has a direct effect on fuel economy. If undetected, minor brake drag can be misdiagnosed as an engine or transmission/torque converter problem. Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down process. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped. Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way through. It can also distort and score rotors and drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake components will be extremely hot. In severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars from overheating. Some common causes of brake drag are: seized or improperly adjusted parking brake cables loose or damaged wheel bearing seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted slide surfaces loose caliper mounting bracket drum brakeshoes binding on worn-damaged support plates misassembled components
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BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP WATER PUDDLES This condition is generally caused by water soaked lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by driving with the brakes lightly applied for a mile or two. However, if the lining is both wet and dirty, disassembly and cleaning will be necessary. BRAKE NOISE
Squeak/Squeal Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded in the brake lining can also cause squeak/ squeal. A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn through to the brakeshoes in spots, metal-to-metal contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue, rotors can become so scored that replacement is necessary. Thump/Clunk Thumping or clunk noises during braking are frequently not caused by brake components. In many cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged steering, suspension, or engine components. However, calipers that bind on the slide pins can generate a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out, improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear brakeshoes can also produce noise a thump noise. Chatter/Shudder Brake chatter, or shudder is usually caused by loose or worn components, or glazed/burned lining. Rotors with hard spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
BRAKE FADE Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by brake drag. Brake overheat and fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops in a short time span, or constant braking on steep mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information in this section for causes. PEDAL PULSATION Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are loose, or beyond tolerance limits. Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness variation, or out of round brake drums are the primary causes of pulsation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged tires. PULL A front pull condition could be the result of contaminated lining in one caliper, seized caliper piston, binding caliper, loose caliper, loose or corroded slide pins, improper brakeshoes, or a damaged rotor. A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension component are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull. A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condition is where direction of pull changes after a few stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag followed by fade at one of the brake units. As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in favor of the normally functioning brake unit. When diagnosing a change in pull condition, remember that pull will return to the original direction if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is not seriously damaged). REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL Rear grab or pull is usually caused by an improperly adjusted or seized parking brake cable, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes and support plates, or improperly assembled components. This is particularly true when only one rear wheel is involved. However, when both rear wheels are affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve could be at fault.
BRAKELINING CONTAMINATION Brakelining contamination is usually a product of leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, driving through deep water puddles, or lining that has become covered with grease and grit during repair. WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS Some conditions attributed to brake components may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem. A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause vibration or pull. Severely worn tires with very little tread left can produce a grab-like condition as the tires lose and recover traction.
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Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel tramp and generate shudder during brake operation. A tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
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ABS Diagnostic Connector Location . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 ABS System Normal and Fault Conditions . . . . . . . . 9 ABS/RWAL Control Module Diagnosis . . . . . . . . . . . 9 ABS/RWAL Fault Condition Causes . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 ABS/RWAL Warning Light Display . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Antilock Valve Service and Diagnosis . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Clearing RWAL Fault Codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES
ABS System Antilock diagnosis involves checking only those components that form the antilock system. Diagnosis involves three basic steps which are: observation of the warning light display visual examination for low fluid, leaks, or damaged wires circuit check with DRB scan tool Visual examination includes a check of reservoir fluid level and condition of the system components. This includes inspection of the sensor wires and electrical connections. Things to look for are leaks, loose connections, or obvious component damage. Circuit checking involves using the DRB scan tool to identify a faulty circuit or component. RWAL System An RWAL system malfunction will be indicated by illumination of the amber warning lamp. If a problem occurs, system diagnosis should begin with a fluid level check followed by a visual examination of the system electrical and hydraulic connections. If obvious defects (low fluid, leaks, loose connections, etc.) are not evident, road test the vehicle. A road test should help determine if a malfunction is actually related to an antilock component. During the road test, note if other conditions are evident such as a low pedal, pull, grab, or similar condition. Remember that brake malfunctions such as low fluid, system leaks, or parking brakes partially applied will affect antilock system operation. The idea is to determine if a malfunction is actually related to an antilock component. If a visual inspection and road test do not indicate the problem cause, check the system fault flash codes. Refer to the system fault code information in this section.
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS ABS SYSTEM NORMAL AND FAULT CONDITIONS
Wheel/Tire Size And Input Signals Antilock system operation depends on accurate signals from the wheel speed sensors. Ideally, the vehicle wheels and tires should all be the same size and type to ensure accurate signals and satisfactory operation. Operating Sound Levels On the all wheel ABS system, the pump/motor and antilock valve solenoids may produce some sound as they cycle. This is a normal condition and should not be mistaken for faulty operation. Under most conditions, pump and solenoid valve operating sounds will not be audible. Vehicle Response In Antilock Mode During antilock braking, the front/rear solenoid valves cycle rapidly in response to antilock control module inputs. The driver may experience a slight pulsing sensation in the brake pedal and vehicle as the solenoid valves modulate fluid pressure as needed. This is a normal condition. Steering Response A modest amount of steering input is required during extremely high deceleration braking, or when braking on differing traction surfaces. An example of differing traction surfaces would be when the left side wheels are on ice and the right side wheels are on relatively dry pavement. Loss Of Sensor Input Wheel speed sensor malfunctions will most likely be due to loose connections, damaged sensor wires, or incorrect sensor air gap. An additional fault would be a result of sensor and tone ring misalignment or physical damage. A faulty sensor (open, shorted) can be located with the flash codes or the DRB scan tool on all wheel antilock models.
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Light Illuminates During Brake Stop A system fault such as loss of speed sensor signal or solenoid failure, will cause the amber warning light to illuminate. The most effective procedure here is to check for obvious damage first. Then check the electronic components with the DRB scan tool, or flash codes.
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TESTING PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH (1) Have helper sit in drivers seat to apply brake pedal and observe red brake warning light. (2) Raise vehicle on hoist. (3) Connect bleed hose to a rear wheel cylinder and immerse hose end in container partially filled with brake fluid. (4) Have helper press and hold brake pedal to floor and observe warning light.
(a) If warning light illuminates, switch is operating correctly. (b) If light fails to illuminate, check circuit fuse, bulb and wiring. Repair as necessary and repeat test steps (3) and (4). (5) If warning light still fails to illuminate, check brakelight and parking brake switches and wiring with test lamp. Repair or replace parts as necessary and test differential pressure switch operation again. (6) If warning light still does not illuminate, switch is faulty. Replace combination valve assembly, bleed brake system and verify proper switch and valve operation.
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Brake Fluid Contamination . . . . Brakelines and Hoses . . . . . . . . Correct Brake Fluid Level . . . . . General Service Information . . . Importance of Clean Brake Fluid
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Use new brake fluid only, to top off the master cylinder or refill the system. Never use reclaimed fluid, unmarked or unspecified fluid, fluid not meeting SAE/DOT standards, fluid marked 70R1, or fluid from a container that has been left open for any length of time. Using non recommended or unspecified fluid can result in brake failure after hard prolonged braking.
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(4) Note or mark position of reservoir before removal. Side of reservoir with fluid level information on it goes toward driver side of engine compartment. (5) Remove reservoir by firmly rocking it from side to side (Fig. 4). Continue rocking until reservoir comes out of grommets.
CYLINDER BLEEDING PROCEDURE (1) Remove protective caps from master cylinder outlet ports and mount master cylinder assembly in a vise. (2) Attach bleed tubes to cylinder outlet ports and insert bleed tubes in reservoir fluid compartments (Fig. 4). (3) Fill reservoir with fresh Mopar DOT 3 brake fluid. (4) Press cylinder pistons inward with wood dowel. Then release pistons and allow them to return under spring pressure.
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(5) Continue bleeding operations until air bubbles are no longer visible in fluid. (6) Remove bleed tubes. (7) If cylinder will not be installed right away, install protective caps in cylinder outlet ports. Caps will keep dirt out of cylinder.
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POWER BRAKE BOOSTERBRAKE PEDALSTOPLAMP SWITCH POWER BRAKE BOOSTERBRAKE PEDALSTOPLAMP SWITCH INDEX
page Brake Pedal Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Brake Pedal Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 General Service Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
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page Power Brake Booster Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Power Brake Booster Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Stoplamp Switch Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 A suspended-type brake pedal is used. The pedal is attached to the pedal support bracket with a pivot bolt and bushings (Fig. 1). The booster push rod is attached to the pedal with a clip. The pedal, bushings, pivot pin and support bracket are all serviceable components.
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SWITCH INITIAL ADJUSTMENT (1) Push and hold brake pedal in applied position. (2) Push switch forward until fully seated against bracket (Fig. 3). (3) Release brake pedal. (4) Lightly pull brake pedal rearward until master cylinder push rod bottoms against master cylinder internal stop. This action will set switch plunger at proper stroke length.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force to move the pedal rearward and do not overextend the pedal and push rod. Stoplamp Switch Replacement (1) Remove steering column opening cover.
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(7) Work switch and bracket up toward pedal support and connect harness wires to switch. (8) Position switch and bracket in support. Install bracket retaining nut and washer. Tighten nut to 7 Nm (60 in. lbs.) torque. Be sure bracket tang is seated in support. (9) Check switch operation before proceeding any further. If brakelights fail to illuminate or remain on, switch bracket is not seated, switch is not fully engaged in mounting bracket, switch plunger is not aligned with striker, or wire harness is not fully connected. Reposition switch, bracket or striker as needed. (10) Align and install air duct and steering column cover.
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Brake Drum Installation . . . . . . Brake Drum Refinish Limits . . . Brake Drum Refinishing . . . . . Brake Drum Removal . . . . . . . Brake Drum Runout . . . . . . . . Brake Support Plate Installation Brake Support Plate Removal . Brakeshoe Installation . . . . . . .
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GENERAL INFORMATION
The drum brake units used for all applications are dual shoe, internal expanding units with an automatic self adjusting mechanism (Figs. 1 and 2). Nine inch brakes are used on standard models. Ten inch brakes are used on models with heavy duty option packages. Cast wheel cylinders are used for all applications. The cylinders are serviceable components and can be overhauled. The cylinder bores can be lightly polished with crocus cloth but must not be honed.
BRAKESHOE REMOVAL
(1) Remove rear wheel and brake drum. (2) Remove shoe return springs with Brake Spring Plier Tool C-3785 (Fig. 3). (3) Remove adjuster cable. Slide cable eye off anchor pin. Then unhook and remove cable from adjuster lever.
DRUM BRAKES
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BRAKESHOE INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate anchor pin and brakeshoe contact surfaces of support plate (Fig. 6). Use Mopar multipurpose grease, bearing grease, or Lubriplate. (2) Lubricate adjuster screw socket, nut, button and screw thread surfaces with Mopar spray lube or Lubriplate.
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DRUM BRAKES
marked L (left) and R (right) for identification (Fig. 8). The passenger side adjuster screw has left hand threads and the driver side screw has right hand threads.
Fig. 8 Adjuster Screw Components Fig. 6 Shoe Contact Surfaces On Support Plate
(3) Attach parking brake cable to lever. Then connect lever to secondary shoe. Use new U-clip to secure lever. (4) Install primary shoe on support plate. Secure shoe with new holddown spring, retainers and pin (Fig. 7). (5) Install spring on parking brake strut and engage strut in primary shoe (Fig. 7). (6) Install secondary shoe on support plate (Fig. 7). Insert strut in shoe and guide shoe onto anchor pin. Secure shoe with new holddown spring, retainers and pin. (10) Install adjuster lever spring on rear shoe pin. Position adjuster lever on pin and slide hooked end of spring over lever to hold it in place. (11) Raise adjuster lever upward and attach adjuster cable spring to lever. Be sure spring is securely attached to lever and that lever remains seated on shoe pin. (12) Connect the shoe spring to lower part of each brakeshoe. Hooked end of spring goes in rear shoe. (13) Install cable guide in secondary shoe and position cable around guide. (14) Insert hooked end of rear shoe return spring through cable guide and into spring hole in brakeshoe. Then seat spring on anchor pin with brake spring pliers. (15) Install front shoe return spring. (16) Verify adjuster operation. Pull adjuster cable upward. Cable should lift lever and rotate start wheel when cable is released. Be sure adjuster lever properly engages star wheel teeth. (17) Adjust brakeshoes to drum with brake gauge as described in Service Adjustments section.
DRUM BRAKES
drum outer edge (Fig. 9). Generally, a nine inch drum can be machined to a maximum of 230.1 mm (9.060 in.) and a ten inch drum to 255.5 mm (10.060 in.). Always replace the drum if machining would cause drum diameter to exceed indicated size limit.
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(2) Remove axle shaft and retainer. Refer to Group 3 for procedures. (3) Remove primary brakeshoe for access to parking brake cable if necessary. (4) Compress parking brake cable retainer tabs with a hose clamp (Fig. 10). Then push retainer and cable through and out of support plate.
Fig. 10 Removing Parking Brake Cable From Support Plate Fig. 9 Location Of Brake Drum Maximum Allowable Diameter
(5) Disconnect brake line at wheel cylinder. (6) Remove wheel cylinder and brakeshoes from support plate. (7) Remove bolts attaching support plate to axle and remove support plate.
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DRUM BRAKES
the cylinder if the bore is scored, pitted or heavily corroded. Honing the bore to restore the surface is not recommended. Inspect the cylinder pistons. The piston surfaces should be smooth and free of scratches, scoring and corrosion. Replace the pistons if worn, scored, or corroded. Do not attempt to restore the surface by sanding or polishing. Discard the old piston cups and the spring and expander. These parts are not reusable. The original dust boots may be reused but only if in good condition.
ASSEMBLING WHEEL CYLINDER (1) Lubricate wheel cylinder bore, pistons, piston cups and expander spring with fresh brake fluid. (2) Install first piston in cylinder bore. Then install cup in bore and against piston. Be sure lip of piston cup is facing inward (toward spring and expander) and flat side is against piston. (3) Install expander spring followed by remaining piston cup and piston. (4) Install boots on each end of cylinder and insert push rods in boots. Press boots onto cylinder ends in vise if necessary. (5) Install cylinder bleed screw.
ADJUSTMENT WITH BRAKE GAUGE (1) Verify that the left/right automatic adjuster lever and cable are properly connected. Also verify that the parking brakes are fully released and the cables are slack. (2) Insert the brake gauge in the drum. Expand the gauge until the gauge inner legs contact the drum braking surface. Then lock the gauge in position (Fig. 13).
DRUM BRAKES
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ADJUSTMENT WITH TOOL C-3784 (1) Release parking brakes fully, if applied. Be sure there is slack in the cables. (2) Raise vehicle so rear wheels are free to turn. (3) Remove rubber plugs from access holes in rear brake support plates. (4) Insert Drum Brake Adjusting Tool C-3784 through access hole and engage it in adjuster screw star wheel. Turn star wheel counterclockwise (move tool upward) until a slight drag is felt when road wheel is rotated. (5) Insert a thin screwdriver or length of welding rod into support plate access hole and push adjuster lever out of engagement with star wheel (Fig. 15). Do not bend the lever or distort the lever spring.
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DRUM BRAKES
The correct tightening sequence is important in avoiding drum distortion. The correct sequence is in a diagonal crossing pattern. Seat the wheel and install the wheel nuts finger tight. Tighten the nuts in sequence to 1/2 the required torque. Then repeat the tightening sequence to final specified torque.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Two-wheel drive AN models are equipped with single piston disc brake calipers. The calipers move laterally on pins that attach the caliper to the mounting adapter. Abutment surfaces machined in the brakeshoes and mounting adapter maintain fore and aft alignment. The calipers are fully serviceable components and can be overhauled when necessary. Non metallic caliper pistons are used for all applications. The pistons are made of a phenolic resin material. Two-wheel drive models are equipped with a disc brake rotor and hub assembly. The rotor hub is supported on the steering knuckle spindle by the wheel bearings. The rotor braking surfaces are ventilated and can be machined to restore surface finish when necessary. The disc brakeshoes are held in position by retaining springs. The inboard shoe spring is an integral part of the shoe. The outboard shoe is spring is removable. Two slide pins secure the caliper to the caliper adapter. The adapter, which is also removable, is attached to the steering knuckle (Fig. 1).
DISC BRAKELINING WEAR COMPENSATION The caliper piston seal controls the amount of piston extension needed to compensate for normal lining wear. In operation, the seal is deflected outward under fluid pressure (Fig. 2). When fluid pressure is released, the seal relaxes and retracts the piston. The amount of retraction is determined by lining wear. Generally, the amount is just enough to maintain contact between the piston and inboard shoe and a zero or very slight clearance at the rotor. The fluid level in the disc brake reservoir will decrease as lining wear occurs. This is a normal condition and only requires that enough fluid be added to restore proper level. SHOE AND LINING WEAR LIMITS Combined shoe and lining thickness should be measured at the thinnest part of the assembly. Re-
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BRAKESHOE REMOVAL
(1) Clean master cylinder reservoir and filler caps. (2) Remove filler caps and drain approximately 1/4 of fluid from reservoir. Use clean suction gun or similar device to remove fluid. (3) Raise and support front of vehicle. (4) Remove front wheel and tire assemblies. (5) Remove outboard retaining spring from caliper (Fig. 3). Push spring ends downward and pull spring ends out of caliper to remove.
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BRAKESHOE INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and lubricate slide surfaces of caliper mounting adapter (Fig. 11). Use wire brush to clean surfaces. Then apply coating of Mopar multi mileage grease to slide surfaces and to threads of slide pin holes. (2) Clean caliper slide pins with brake cleaner or brake fluid. Then apply coating of silicone grease to pins. Minor rust or corrosion can be polished from pins with crocus cloth. However, replace
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CALIPER REMOVAL
Fig. 11 Caliper Adapter Slide Surfaces
the pins if severely rusted, or corroded. (3) Install caliper slide pin bushings and boots if removed (Fig. 10). (4) Install inboard shoe (Fig. 7). Be sure spring is fully seated in caliper piston. (5) Install outboard shoe in caliper mounting adapter. (6) Carefully lower caliper into place over rotor and outboard brakeshoe. (7) Align caliper in adapter and start caliper slide pins by hand. Do not cross thread pins. (8) Check position of brakeshoes (Fig. 12). Verify that shoe tabs are squarely seated on ledge surfaces of caliper adapter. (9) Final-tighten caliper slide pins to 25-35 Nm (18-26 ft. lbs.). (1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels. (2) Remove outboard shoe spring (Fig. 3). (3) Disconnect brake hose at caliper. Discard hose fitting washers if worn, or damaged (Fig. 14).
CALIPER DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brakeshoes from caliper (Figs. 6 and 7). Discard shoes if worn, or damaged. (2) Drain old brake fluid out of caliper into drain pan. (3) Remove piston dust boot (Fig. 15). Use screwdriver to push boot out of groove. (4) Pad outboard shoe side of caliper interior with a minimum 2.54 cm (1 in.) thickness of shop towels (Fig. 16). Towels will prevent piston damage when piston is comes out of bore. (5) Remove caliper piston with short bursts of compressed air. Apply air pressure through fluid inlet port of caliper (Fig. 16).
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(6) Remove caliper piston seal with wood pencil or plastic tool (Fig. 17). Do not use metal tools as they will scratch piston bore.
Fig. 17 Removing Caliper Piston Seal Fig. 15 Removing Piston Dust Boot
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the caliper. This procedure will usually result in severe piston damage. Use only enough air pressure to ease the piston out of the bore. In addition, never attempt to catch the piston as it leaves the caliper bore. This practice will result in personal injury. (7) Remove caliper slide pin bushings and boots (Fig. 18).
Inspect the caliper bushings and boots. Replace the boots if cut or torn. Clean and lubricate the bushings with GE 661, Dow 111, or similar silicone grease if necessary.
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CALIPER ASSEMBLY
(1) Lubricate slide pin boots and bushings with GE, or Dow silicone grease. Then install boots and bushings in caliper. (2) Coat caliper piston bore, piston and new piston seal with fresh brake fluid. (3) Install new piston seal in caliper bore. Press seal into groove with finger (Fig. 19). Lubricate seal and caliper bore with additional, fresh brake fluid after seal installation.
(a) Slide boot over piston until boot lip seats in piston groove (Fig. 20). (b) Push retainer part of boot forward until folds in boot snap into place (Fig. 21).
CALIPER INSTALLATION
(1) Install brake shoes in caliper.
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Brakeshoe and Caliper Inspection Brakeshoe Installation . . . . . . . . . Brakeshoe Removal . . . . . . . . . . Caliper Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . Caliper Cleaning and Inspection .
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Four-wheel drive AN models are equipped with single piston, slider type disc brake calipers. The calipers slide laterally on pins that attach the caliper to the steering knuckle (Fig. 1). The brakeshoes ride on ledges machined in the steering knuckle. The shoe mounting ears are notched to seat on these ledges. The notched ears also maintain fore and aft position of the shoes. A retainer spring on each brakeshoe maintains shoe position in the caliper. The single piston used in each caliper is non-metallic. The pistons are made of a phenolic resin material. Ventilated, disc brake rotors are used for all applications. The rotors are serviceable and can be machined to restore the surface finish when necessary. The calipers are fully serviceable components and can be overhauled when necessary. The brakeshoes
are replaceable components but must be replaced on both front wheels at the same time to maintain braking balance. Never replace the shoes on only one side.
BRAKELINING WEAR COMPENSATION The caliper piston seal controls the amount of piston extension needed to compensate for normal lining wear. In operation, the seal is deflected outward under fluid pressure (Fig. 2). When fluid pressure is released, the seal relaxes and retracts the piston. The amount of retraction is determined by lining wear. Generally, the amount is just enough to maintain contact between the piston and inboard shoe and a zero or very slight clearance at the rotor. The fluid level in the front brake reservoir will decrease as lining wear occurs. This is a normal condition and only requires adding enough fluid to restore proper level.
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BRAKESHOE REMOVAL
(1) Clean master cylinder reservoir and filler caps. (2) Remove reservoir filler caps and drain approximately 1/4 of fluid from reservoir. Use clean suction gun or similar device to drain fluid. (3) Raise and support vehicle. (4) Remove front wheel and tire assemblies. (5) Bottom caliper pistons in bores with large C-clamp. Position clamp frame on rear of caliper and clamp screw on outboard brakeshoe. (6) Remove caliper slide pins. (7) Remove caliper and brakeshoes (Fig. 3).
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BRAKESHOE INSTALLATION
(1) Clean slide surfaces of adapter ledges with a wire brush. Then lubricate surfaces with Mopar multi mileage grease. (2) Install new slide pin boots and sleeves if necessary.
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CALIPER REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle. (2) Remove front wheel and tire assemblies. (3) Disconnect brake hose at caliper. Discard hose fitting washers if worn, or damaged (Fig. 11).
CALIPER DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brakeshoes from caliper (Figs. 4 and 5). Discard shoes if worn, or damaged. (2) Drain old brake fluid out of caliper into drain pan. (3) Remove piston dust boot (Fig. 12). Use screwdriver to push boot out of groove. (4) Pad outboard shoe side of caliper interior with a minimum 1 inch thickness of shop towels (Fig. 13). Towels will prevent piston damage when piston is comes out of bore. (5) Remove caliper piston with short bursts of compressed air. Apply air pressure through fluid inlet port of caliper (Fig. 13). CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the caliper. This procedure will usually result in severe piston damage. Use only enough air pressure to ease the piston out of the bore. In addition, never attempt to catch the piston as it leaves the caliper bore. This practice will result in personal injury.
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CALIPER ASSEMBLY
(1) Lubricate slide pin boots and bushings with GE, or Dow silicone grease. Then install the boots and bushings in caliper. (2) Coat caliper piston bore, piston and new piston seal with clean brake fluid. (3) Install new piston seal in caliper bore. Press seal into groove with finger (Fig. 16). Lubricate seal and caliper bore with additional, fresh brake fluid after seal installation.
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CALIPER INSTALLATION
(1) Install brake shoes in caliper. (2) Install caliper and shoes over rotor and into ledges in steering knuckle. Be sure ends of brakeshoes are properly seated on slide surfaces of ledges. (3) Align caliper in adapter and start caliper slide pins into adapter by hand. (4) Tighten caliper slide pins to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) torque. (5) Connect brake hose to caliper. Use new washers to attach hose fitting if original washers are scored, worn, or damaged. (6) Fill and bleed brake hydraulic system. (7) Install wheel and tire assemblies. (8) Remove supports and lower vehicle. (9) Pump brake pedal to seat shoes and verify firm pedal before moving vehicle. (10) Check master cylinder fluid level again and top off if necessary.
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ROTOR TYPES
A disc brake rotor is used for 4-wheel drive applications (Fig. 1). A disc brake rotor and hub assembly is used for 2-wheel drive applications (Fig. 1). Both rotor types are cast metal with built in ventilating ribs between the rotor braking surfaces. The rotor braking surfaces on both rotor types can be sanded, or machined to restore surface finish when necessary. However, a rotor should be replaced if machining would cause rotor thickness to fall below usable minimum. On 2-wheel drive models with ABS brakes, the tone wheel for the front speed sensor is pressed onto the rotor hub. Because the tone wheel is only serviced as part of the complete rotor and hub assembly, extra care will be required in handling to avoid damage. Refer to the rotor removal and installation procedures in this section.
ROTOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle. (2) Remove wheel cover and wheel and tire assembly. (3) Remove caliper and brakeshoe assembly but do not disconnect brake line. Support caliper on stool, or box. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight. (4) On 2-wheel drive models, remove grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock,nut, thrust washer and outer wheel bearing. Then remove rotor and hub assembly (Fig. 1). CAUTION: On 2-wheel drive models with ABS brakes, the tone wheel for the front wheel sensor is located on the rotor hub (Fig. 2). Exercise care when handling the rotor during service. The entire rotor and hub assembly will have to be replaced if the tone wheel becomes damaged during handling. (5) On 4-wheel drive models, remove stamped rotor retainer nuts or clips and remove rotor (Fig. 1). (6) On 2-wheel drive models, if rotor will be refinished, remove wheel bearings from rotor hub so rotor can be mounted on brake lathe arbor.
ROTOR INSTALLATION
(1) On 4-wheel drive models: (a) Install rotor on wheel studs.
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Fig. 2 Front Sensor Tone Wheel Location (2-Wheel Drive Models With ABS)
(c) Install rotor on spindle and install bearing thrust washer and adjusting nut. (d) Install brakeshoes and caliper. Then install wheel and tire on rotor hub. (e) Adjust wheel bearings. Rotate wheel while tightening adjusting nut to properly seat bearings. Correct end play is from zero to maximum of 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). (f) Install nut lock and cotter pin (note preferred cotter pin position shown in Figure 1). Then apply coating of wheel bearing grease to interior of grease cap and seat cap in rotor hub. (3) On all models: (a) Install brakeshoes and caliper. (b) Lower vehicle. (c) Final tighten wheel nuts to 120 Nm (88 ft. lbs.) torque.
ROTOR REFINISHING
Rotor braking surfaces can be refinished by sanding and/or machining in a disc brake lathe. The lathe must be capable of machining both rotor surfaces simultaneously with dual cutter heads (Fig. 2). Equipment capable of machining only one side at a time will produce a tapered rotor. The lathe should also be equipped with a grinder attachment or dual sanding discs for final cleanup or light refinishing (Fig. 3). If the rotor surfaces only need minor cleanup of rust, scale, or minor scoring, use abrasive discs to clean up the rotor surfaces. However, when a rotor is scored or worn, machining with cutting tools will be required. CAUTION: Do not refinish a rotor if machining would cause the rotor to fall below minimum allowable thickness. The final finish on the rotor should be a non-directional, cross hatch pattern (Fig. 4). Sanding discs will produce this finish.
ROTOR RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout with a dial indicator (Fig. 6). Excessive lateral runout will cause brake pedal pulsation and rapid, uneven wear of the brakeshoes. Maximum allowable rotor runout for all models is 0.102 mm (0.004 inch).
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A dial indicator, or machinist calipers can be used to check rotor taper. A tapered rotor is usually caused by improper machining and should be replaced.
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RWAL BRAKE OPERATION AND SERVICE RWAL BRAKE OPERATION AND SERVICE INDEX
page page Rear Antilock Valve Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RWAL System Brake Bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RWAL System Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RWAL System Manual Brake Bleeding Procedure RWAL System Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Speed Sensor Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Speed Sensor Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 . . 48 . . 44 . 49 . . 45 . . 48 . . 48
Combination Valve Installation . . . . . Combination Valve Operation . . . . . Combination Valve Removal . . . . . . Electronic Control Module Installation Electronic Control Module Removal . General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear Antilock Valve Installation . . . .
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GENERAL INFORMATION
The RWAL brake system is standard on all AN models. The system is controlled by a separate electronic control module. The RWAL system retards rear wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip and deceleration. Retarding lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the rear brake units. Rear brake fluid pressure is modulated according to wheel speed, degree of wheel slip and rate of deceleration. A sensor in the rear axle housing converts differential rotating speed into electronic signals. The signals are transmitted to the electronic control module for processing. The control module determines rate of deceleration and wheel slip from these signals.
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Fig. 3 Speed Sensor Location Fig. 2 Rear Brake Antilock And Combination Valves
Speed Sensor And Exciter Ring A speed sensor is used to transmit speed and rate of deceleration inputs to the electronic control module (Fig. 3). The sensor is actuated by an exciter ring on the differential case. The sensor is mounted at the top of the rear axle housing directly over the gear-type exciter ring (Fig. 3). The exciter ring is pressed onto the differential case adjacent to the ring gear. The exciter ring is the sensor trigger mechanism. Exciter ring rotation causes the teeth on the ring to interrupt the magnetic field around the sensor pole. The rate of interruption is converted into speed signals which are transmitted to the control module. The sensor is not adjustable and must be replaced whenever diagnosis indicates a fault has occurred. Antilock Warning Lamp The amber antilock warning lamp is located in the instrument cluster adjacent to the red service brake warning lamp. The antilock lamp illuminates only when an RWAL fault occurs. The antilock lamp is also used for troubleshooting purposes. The lamp is in circuit with the control module which has a self test program. If a system fault occurs, the program will flash the lamp when the diagnostic connector is grounded. The flash codes are used to identify a problem circuit, or component. Combination Valve A combination valve is used with the rear wheel antilock system. The valve is attached to a bracket bolted to the master cylinder mounting studs. The valve bracket is also used to secure the rear wheel antilock valve (Fig. 2). The mounting bracket and combination valve are serviced as an assembly. The valve is permanently attached to the bracket. The valve contains a front disc brake metering valve and a pressure differential valve and switch. The differential switch is in circuit with the red brake warning light.
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The module transmits the signal that activates the solenoid valves. The valves then decrease, or isolate fluid apply pressure to the rear wheel cylinders as needed to modulate fluid pressure. Closing the valves prevents further fluid flow to the rear wheel cylinders. This action isolates the rear brakes from the master cylinder. The net effect is to decrease rear brake apply pressure to the point where the wheels will continue to rotate but not lock. When rear brake pressure requirements return to normal levels, the solenoid valves are inactivated. This action allows the resumption of normal fluid flow to the wheel cylinders. Solenoid Valve Cycle Times Activation (opening/closing) of the solenoid valves is not static during antilock mode braking. Valve operation is continuous as they are rapidly cycled in response to sensor inputs and control module commands. Cycle times are measured in milliseconds. As the demand for antilock mode brake operation is decreased, the module deactivates the hydraulic valve components to restore normal brake operation.
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(5) Attach ground wire to combination valve bracket (Fig. 4). Make sure ground wire is securely attached and free of corrosion. A poor connection here will cause a system fault. (6) Connect brakelines to master cylinder, rear antilock valve and combination valve. (7) Tighten brakeline fittings to 16-23 Nm (140-200 in. lbs.) torque. (8) Connect wire harnesses to antilock and combination valves. (9) Install and connect battery. (10) Bleed brakes as described at end of this section.
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VACUUM BLEEDING If vacuum bleeding equipment is being used, it is not necessary to hold the front brake metering valve open. Simply bleed the brakes following the bleed equipment manufacturers instructions. PRESSURE BLEEDING If pressure bleeding equipment will be used, the front brake metering valve will have to be held open to bleed the front brakes. The valve stem is located
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in the forward end of the combination valve. The stem must either be pressed inward, or held outward slightly. a spring clip tool or helper is needed to hold the valve stem in position. Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully when using pressure equipment. Some precautions are: Make sure the front brake metering valve in the combination is held open. A spring clip tool is best for securing the valve stem in an open position.
ABS BRAKE OPERATION AND SERVICE ABS BRAKE OPERATION AND SERVICE INDEX
page ABS Brake Bleeding Recommendations . . . . . . ABS Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS Electronic Control Module Installation . . . . ABS Electronic Control Module Removal . . . . . ABS Manual Brake Bleeding Procedure . . . . . . ABS Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Combination Valve Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . Combination Valve Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . Combination Valve Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front Antilock Valve Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . Front Antilock Valve Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front Brake Speed Sensor Installation (2-Wheel Drive Models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 51 59 59 60 54 57 55 57 55 55
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page Front Brake Speed Sensor Installation (4-Wheel Drive Models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front Brake Speed Sensor Removal (2-Wheel Drive Models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front Brake Speed Sensor Removal (4-Wheel Drive Models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear Antilock Valve Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear Antilock Valve Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear Brake Speed Sensor Installation . . . . . . . . . . Rear Brake Speed Sensor Removal (All) . . . . . . . . Tone Wheel Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 58 59 57 56 59 59 58
. . . 58 electrical harnesses combination valve diagnostic connector Front Antilock Valve The front antilock valve consists of a solenoid valve body and pump/motor unit combined into a single assembly (Fig. 2).
ABS COMPONENTS
The optionally available ABS system is an allwheel antilock brake system (Fig. 1). ABS system components include: rear antilock valve rear wheel speed sensor and exciter ring front wheel speed sensors and tone rings front antilock valve electronic control module
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The valve is mounted on the driver side inner fender panel. The valve and motor assembly are attached to a one piece mounting bracket. The valve body contains the solenoid valves that modulate brake fluid pressure during antilock braking. The valves are operated by the antilock system electronic control module. The front antilock valve provides two channel pressure control of the front brakes. One channel controls the left front brake and the second channel controls the right front brake. Each front brake is controlled independently. The solenoid valves are cycled open and closed as needed during antilock braking. The valves are not static. They are cycled rapidly and continuously to modulate pressure and control wheel slip and deceleration. The pump and motor unit are controlled by the electronic module. The pump supplies the additional fluid volume needed during antilock braking.
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The sensors convert wheel speed into an electrical signal. The signal is transmitted to the electronic control module for processing. The trigger mechanism for each front wheel sensor is a gear type, tone wheel. On 4-wheel drive models, the tone wheels are mounted on the axle shafts. On 2-wheel drive models, the tone wheels are mounted on the inboard side of the disc brake rotor hub (Fig. 6). A single sensor is used to monitor rear wheel speed and rate of deceleration. The sensor is mounted at the top of the rear axle housing (Fig. 7). The trigger mechanism for the sensor is an exciter ring pressed onto the differential case. The ring is pressed onto the case next to the ring gear. The teeth on the tone wheels and exciter ring interrupt the senor magnetic field as they rotate. Rate of interruption is converted into speed signals which are transmitted to the electronic control module. The front and rear sensors are fixed and not adjustable. A front or rear sensor must be replaced when diagnosis indicates a fault has occurred.
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ABS OPERATION IN NORMAL BRAKING MODE The ABS control module monitors wheel speed sensor inputs continuously while the vehicle is in motion. However, the module will not activate any ABS components as long as sensor inputs indicate normal braking. During normal braking, the master cylinder, power booster and wheel brake units all function as they would in a vehicle without ABS. The solenoid valves are not activated. ABS OPERATION IN ANTILOCK BRAKING MODE The ABS module activates the system whenever sensor signals indicate the onset of high wheel slip. High wheel slip can be described as the point where wheel rotation begins approaching zero (or lockup) during braking. The antilock system retards lockup during high slip conditions by modulating fluid apply pressure to the wheel brake units. Brake fluid apply pressure is modulated according to wheel speed, degree of slip and rate of deceleration. A sensor at each wheel converts wheel speed into electrical signals. These signals are transmitted to the module for processing and determination of wheel slip and deceleration rate. The ABS system has three fluid pressure control channels. The front brakes are controlled separately and the rear brakes in tandem. A speed sensor input signal indicating high slip conditions activates the control module antilock program. The solenoid valves are not static during antilock braking. They are cycled continuously to modulate pressure. Solenoid cycle time in antilock mode can be measured in milliseconds.
ABS OPERATION
The all-wheel ABS system is a three channel design. The front wheel brakes are controlled individually and the rear wheel brakes in tandem (Fig. 9). The ABS system is designed to retard wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip when braking. Retarding wheel lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the wheel brake units. The antilock electrical system is separate from other electrical circuits in the vehicle. A specially programmed electronic control module is used to operate the system components. The front and rear antilock valves contain electrically operated solenoid valves. The solenoid valves
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(4) Connect front brakelines to front antilock valve (Fig. 9). Tighten brakeline fittings to 16-23 Nm (140200 in. lbs.). (5) Connect battery. (6) Bleed brake system as described at end of this section.
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(2) Disconnect rear brakeline at rear antilock valve (Fig. 11). (3) Disconnect line that connects front antilock valve to combination valve (Fig. 11). Disconnect line at combination valve fitting. (4) Disconnect harness connectors at antilock and combination valves (Fig. 12). (5) Disconnect ground wire at combination valve bracket (Fig. 12). (6) Remove nuts that attach combination valve bracket to brake booster studs (Fig. 12). (7) Disconnect lines from rear antilock valve to master cylinder (Fig. 13). (8) Slide combination valve bracket off master cylinder mounting studs (Fig. 13). Then remove rear antilock valve, combination valve and bracket and attached brakelines as assembly (Fig. 13). (9) Remove line that connects rear antilock valve to combination valve. (10) Remove bolt attaching rear antilock valve to combination valve bracket. (11) Remove rear brake antilock valve from combination valve bracket. (12) If combination valve will be replaced, remove connecting lines from valve. Retain lines as they will be transferred to new valve.
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(2) Install rear antilock valve on combination valve bracket (Fig. 14). Tighten valve attaching bolt securely. (3) Install line that connects front antilock valve to combination valve (Fig. 14). Do not fully tighten line fitting at this time. (4) Install valve and bracket assembly on booster studs (Fig. 13). (5) Install and tighten nuts that attach combination valve bracket to booster studs to 23-28 Nm (200250 in. lbs.) torque. (6) Attach ground wire to combination valve bracket (Figs. 12 and 13). Make sure ground wire is securely attached and that connection is clean and free of corrosion. A poor ground connection will cause a system fault. (7) Connect brakelines to master cylinder, antilock valve and combination valve. (8) Tighten brakeline fittings at antilock valve to 13-20 Nm (115-175 in. lbs.). Tighten all remaining line fittings to 16-23 Nm (140-200 in. lbs.) torque. (9) Connect wire harnesses to antilock and combination valves. (10) Install and connect battery. (11) Bleed brake system as described in this section.
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(d) Tighten thumbscrew on bleed Tool 6670 just enough to push valve stem inward about 0.51 0.76 mm (0.020 - 0.030 in.). (e) Apply brake pedal. Pedal will fall off significantly when bleed plug is properly open and bleed valve stem is correctly unseated (pressed inward) by tool. (f) Stroke brake pedal rapidly 5-10 times. This action will fill upper and lower sections of valve rapidly. (g) Bleed new valve assembly at each brakeline fitting one at a time. Remember to close valve bleed plug before each brake pedal stroke. Continue bleeding until fluid flowing from fittings is clear and free of bubbles. (h) Remove depressor tool from valve stem and install cap on stem. Then tighten bleed plug to 7-9 Nm (60-84 in. lbs.) torque. (6) If original front antilock valve assembly is being used, bleed plug and bleed valve do not have to be open during bleeding operations. Just bleed the valve assembly at each brakeline fitting one at a time. (7) Bleed first wheel brake unit. Start at left rear wheel and follow sequence recommended in step (3). Repeat bleeding operation at each wheel until fluid coming out of bleed screw is clear and free of bubbles. (8) Top off master cylinder reservoir fluid level. Then verify proper brake operation before moving vehicle.
VACUUM BLEEDING If vacuum bleeding equipment is being used, it is not necessary to hold the front brake metering valve open. Simply bleed the brakes following the equipment manufacturers instructions. PRESSURE BLEEDING If pressure bleeding equipment will be used, the front brake metering valve will have to be held open to bleed the front brakes. The valve stem is located in the forward end of the combination valve. The stem must either be pressed inward, or held outward slightly. a spring clip tool or helper is needed to hold the valve stem in position. Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully when using pressure equipment. Make sure the front brake metering valve in the combination is held open. A spring clip tool is best for securing the valve stem in an open position. Do pressure bleed without a proper master cylinder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leakage, or drawing air back into the system.
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Fig. 23 Location Of Front Antilock Valve Bleed Valve Stem And Plug
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
The parking brakes are operated by a system of cables and levers attached to the rear brake secondary shoes. A foot pedal, cable tensioner, and four cables form the control system. The rear drum brakeshoes serve as the parking brakes. The shoes are moved into contact with the brake drum surface by a cable and lever mechanism attached to the trailing brakeshoe. A strut installed between the primary and secondary shoes maintains shoe position when the parking brakes are applied. The front parking brake cable is connected to the parking brake pedal and to an intermediate cable. The intermediate cable connects the front cable to the rear cables. The parking brake pedal assembly is mounted on the driver side cowl panel (Fig. 1). The front cable is directly attached to the assembly. The pedal assembly contains a spring loaded, ratchet-type mechanism to hold the pedal in the applied position. A cable and spring are used to release the ratchet mechanism and return the pedal to normal position. Parking brake cable adjustment is controlled by the cable tensioner. The tensioner, once adjusted at the factory, will not need further adjustment under normal circumstances. There are only two instances when adjustment is required. The first is when a new tensioner, or cables have been installed. And the second, is when the tensioner and cables are disconnected for access to other brake components.
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PARKING BRAKES
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PARKING BRAKES
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(8) Mark tensioner rod 6.5 mm (1/4 in.) from edge of tensioner bracket (Fig. 5). (9) Tighten adjusting nut at equalizer until mark on tensioner rod moves into alignment with tensioner bracket (Fig. 5). CAUTION: Do not loosen, or tighten the tensioner adjusting nut for any reason after completing adjustment. (10) Lower vehicle until rear wheels are 15-20 cm (6-8 in.) off shop floor. (11) Release parking brake foot pedal and verify that rear wheels rotate freely without drag. Then lower vehicle.
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