Monoprint Minibook Tutorial

These pocket size books are fun to make

and great for notes, memories, drawings,
poetry and collage. Theme them and
create keepsakes and minibook artworks.
Personalise the pages and give them to
your friends as gifts or keep them yourself
for a one month journal. There are many
more uses for these books. Just make one
or two and experiment! They are a great
way to use your art too. For these books
I cut up a large monoprint I had done of
a still life. The monoprint was large but
looked much better cropped smaller so the
colours, textures and images could be more
appreciated. It’s subtle colour variations are
much more at home in this small scale. My
mini book are a handy 3½˝ x 4½˝ - perfect
for purse or pocket. Enjoy!

You will need:

Painted paper

Mixed papers

Paper trimmer
OR ruler and knife

Bonefolder
OR paperclip
©Jan Allsopp 2009
Pen or pencil http://janallsopp.blogspot.com
This tutorial is for personal use only.
2 old telephone books I’d love to see what you make!
Please email me:
Dremel tool with drill bit
OR awl jan@janallsopp.com.au

Linen thread

Beeswax

Bookbinding needle

Scissors
 Step 1: Cut your monoprint to size.
Step 1 My monoprint was extremely large so I
first cut it into 7¼˝ strips using my long
rule, knife, and set square to make sure
to keep everying square. Once I had
it in more manageable strips, I cut it to
4½˝ pieces (final height).

Step 2
c

Step 2: Fold each piece in half, firstly by folding the

painted side of the paper in (a). Use a bonefolder (or
the side of a paperclip) to finish the fold well. Reverse
this fold and turn the paper right-side out (b). Cover
the page with a protective sheet of paper to protect
a b
your painted image and again use your bonefolder to
crisp up the fold. (Folding it both ways gives you a
better result when the paper is thick or painted.) While
still folded trim the cover (both thicknesses) to the final
size 3½˝ (c).

Step 3: Collect your paper for the pages.

Step 3 d Here I’ve collected local handmade papers
(a), vintage sheet music (b), vintage book
pages - some with some of my prints on them
b (c), unused prints (d), and various watercolour
and drawing papers (e). I have lots of lovely
offcuts from my other bookbinding activities.
Even small pieces can be reused here as a
e variety of sizes and textures suits the project.
c After making the minibooks I am again left
a with even smaller offcuts of good quality art
papers (see ‘a’ in step 4). I keep these and
use them to make more handmade paper!

Step 4: Cut or tear your paper to size.

Step 4 Using your paper trimmer or tearing knife, trim
you papers to size. I like to keep the sizes
varied for a really interesting looking book.
a Fold your pages in half using the bonefolder
to create a good fold. Layer your pages in
a visually pleasing way and pop them inside
your cover. For this book I also did a little
drawing on one of the pages to add even more
interest. Make sure all the folds are aligned.
 Step 5: Make a hole template.
Step 5 For the template you need a piece of
paper the same height as your book (4½˝)
and approximately 3˝ wide. Fold it in half
lenghtways. Open out again. Now fold it in
half widthways but just make a small crease
to mark the center of your paper. Open out
again. Fold the top edge into meet the center
and again just mark the spot with a small
crease. Open out again. Draw a dot at each
of the 3 marks you have made. Draw 3 arrows
- the points of the arrows are on the dots, the
shaft of the arrows to the side. These arrows
make it easier to see the dots while you are
making the sewing holes.

Step 6: Make the sewing holes.

Step 6 There are many ways of doing this step. I use 2 old
telephone books, both open in the middle, stacked
one on top of the other. In the fold of the top telephone
book I sit my minibook so it is supported and doesn’t
move. Next I pop on the hole template we made in
Step 5, aligning the top and bottom edges with the
covers edges and arranging the pages how I want
them in my minibook. I use my Dremel tool with a
very fine drill bit to make the holes. They need to be
the same size or slightly smaller than the needle you
will sew with. On a low speed I drill the holes through
all thicknesses of the pages. My work surface is
protected by the telephone books. You could also use
an awl to punch the holes, or for such a thin book you
could even use your bookbinding needle. Make sure
you place the holes right at the point of the arrows
you drew.

Step 7: Ready to sew. Step 7

Now that the holes are made you
are ready to sew. I use 100% linen
bookbinders thread. Whatever thread
you use it will need to be strong and
not so fine as it will tear the pages. 3 1
Wax the thread by running it over some
beeswax. (I’m currently using some 3 2
leftover candlemaking supplies.) Keep
waxing it until your thread becomes 3 3
stiffer and less limp. This will help to
prevent the thread from tangling and
looping as you sew and also assis the
pages to turn without damage.
Step 8A

Step 8: Sewing the book.

8A - Bring the needle into hole 2 (center)
from the outside. Leave 2 to 3 inches tail.

Step 8B 8B - From the inside of the book, put the

needle into hole 1 (top) and pull it though to
the outside cover.

8C - Bring the needle into hole 3 (bottom)

from the outside.

8D - From the inside of the book, put the

needle into hole 2 (center) again. Pull it
through to the outside cover.

Step 8C Step 8D
 o
Step 9: Tieing Off
Step 9A

9A - To tighten your sewing,

pull the ends in the same
direction as the spine. Pulling
up or at an angle can result in
the holes being torn.

Step 9B

9B - Keep your ends on each

side of the long outside stitch.
Tie a reef knot catching the
long stitch inside the knot.
(Reef knot = right over left
and under; left over right and
under.)

Step 9C

9C - Trim your threads. You

can decorate them with
beads, plaits etc if you like.