NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

INTERSHIP REPORT COMPANY: HHEC of India Ltd., 31 - 32, Guindy Industrial Estate, Chennai, Tamilnadu.

AN EFFORT BY: NEELKANTH PASHUPATI SINHA PRASHANT KUMAR TARUN PARGAI

B.F.Technology (Apparel Production) Semester -7(Batch 2009 - 2013)

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Acknowledgment
Our sincere gratitude to our mentor Mr. Amit kumar Anjanee (Assistant Professor) DFT, for his support, guidance and encouragement. We are very thankful to H.H.E.C, Chennai for entrusting us to do our internship with them. We are indebted to thank, Mr.K. Venkataraman (Senior Manager), Mr.K. Paneerselvam (Assistant Marketing Manager), Mr. Manohar (Marketing Executive) , Mr.R.Laxminarayanan(consultant) for their information, guidance and support. We would like to thanks to our course coordinator Mr. Samuel Wesley (Associate Professor) DFT, for her special support. I would like to thank each of my batch mates for support and co-operation.

COMPANY HIERARCHY

General Manager

Production Manager Quality Manager

Quality Incharge

Line checker

Unit incharge

Sampling Incharge

Cutting Incharge

Unit supervisor Sampling supervisor Stitching supervisor

Cutting supervisor

Packing incharge

Packing supervisor

COMPANY PROFILE HHEC , a Govt of India Ministry of Textile company has an exhaustic range of Indian handicrafts , indian handlooms , Indian decoratives , Indian gifts , Indian antiques , leather decoratives , gems and jewellery , Garments , wrought iron handicrafts . We at HHEC ensure the quality and genuiness of the product . HHEC's Garment division has a modern factory in Chennai (Madras) located at the Industrial Estate, Guindy (Madras). It manufactures and exports apparel made of cotton, silk and cotton/nylon for men, women and children. Its strength is in casual wear of cotton fabrics. It has separate quality assurance wing, which takes care of online quality control (In cutting room and sewing room) as well as final quality audit before releasing garments for pressing and packing. The fabric inspection wing takes care of quality control before releasing fabrics for cutting.

Fabrics that are used for making Garments

Quality of the Fabric Items Light Medium weight in yarn Dyed like 40s x 40s, 2/60s x 40s, 2/40s x 20s, 2/80s x 2/60s, Seersucker, 80s mull, cambric, Bubbled batik, Kalamkari, Patchwork fabric, printed, Dobby & Jacquard. Heavy weight-Twill, Drill, Flannel, 2/10s x 6s Filature x Filature, Filature x Dupion, Taffeta, tussar, Matka,Muga.

COTTON

Mens, Ladies & Childrenswear Like Shirts, Blouses, pants, Shorts, Tops,Dresses, etc.,

SILK

S.NO

PARAMETER FLOOR AREA OF EACH FLOOR

VALUE MAINTAINED

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12

DISTANCE BETWEEN FIRE EXTINGUISHERS HEIGHT OF LIGHT FROM THE SEWING MACHINE ANGLE OF THE CHROMIUM REFLECTORS POWER OF EACH ENERGY EFFICIENT TUBE LIGHT HEIGHT OF THE FLOOR URINALS AISLE SPACES DISTANCE BETWEEN CUTTING TABLES DISTANCE BETWEEN EACH SEWING LINE WINDOWS EACH, NOT MORE THAN 50 FT. 1.3 METERS 45 TO 60 28 WATTS. 24 FT( 6.6 METERS) 6 FOR MEN(1 urinal per 30), 8 FOR FEMALE(1 per 20) 42 INCHES( 3.5 FT or 1.06 MTS) 4.5 FT (1.37 MTS) 4 FT( 1.21 MTS) LOCATED ON THREE SIDES OF WALLS

Non-Sewing Machines

SL No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

Description Snap Button Button Pull Tester Button Wrapping Placket Cutting Collar notcher Collar Turning Collar Turning Cuff Turning Cuff Turning Thread Winding Cloth Drilling Cutting Round Knife Cutting End Cutter End Cutter Band Knife

Make Toniy Presto St-9 Nagashing Nagashing Nagashing Nagashing Nagashing Nagashing Toniy Eastman Eastman Eastman Sulee Nagashing Oshima

Model T1808 Loiva NS94 NS91 NS44 NS81 NS46 NS85 TI3900 CD3 629X/BLUE STRECK EC 45 360 NS71 OB900A

Sewing Machinery Details: 224 Single Needle machines and special machines like, lockstitch button stitching, Front placket Multineedle sewing machine, Elastic attaching Multineedle machine, Keyhole buttonholing machine, Feed off the arm, Double needle, blind stitch hemming machine, 5 thread overlocking machine. Also special attachments of suisei brand like pin tucking attachment, Ruffler attachment, Spaghetti attachment for loop making, bias binders, straight binders. etc.,

MERCHANDISING

SAMPLING

PRODUCTION PLANNING DEPT.

FABRIC MAIN STORE

FABRIC SUBSTORE

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

SEWING SECTION

TRIM STORE

FINISHING

QUALITY

PACKAGING

SHIPMENT

ACTIVITIES OF A MERCHANDISER

 Design/Sampling Fabric Accessories Testing Production Quality Check Documentation Shipping/Forwarding MARKETING MERCHANDISING Main functions of marketing merchandising are: Product development Costing Getting Purchase Orders

It brings the order, develops the product, and does the costing. It has a direct access to the Buyer.

PRODUCT MERCHANDISING This is from sourcing to finishing that is from first sample to onwards, the product merchandising work starts and ends till the shipment

PACKAGE FILE It consist of following reports 1. List of orders pasted on the left hand inside cover of the file. 2. Tech pack. 3. CAD marker-costing and factory 4. RMR-order wise and summary chart 5. Trim pro forma invoices from the supplier. 9

6. Confirmation of the trim 7. Order chart from the buyer 8. P.O. copies from the buyers 9. Fabric order confirmations with approved fabrics swatches 10. Hard copy of all incoming and outgoing crucial and important mails that may be required for future references (buyer related) 11. Mills fabric reports-checking, testing 12. Internal fabric reports-checking, testing 13. Buyer approveda. Trim card b. Shade bands c. Wash swatch/wash mocks d. Embroidery/printing 14. Packing list

Sampling Department
WORKING PROCEDURES 1. The package file is received from the merchandiser and the copies of it are handed over to the sampling manager, CAD in charge, sampling technician and the sampling QA in charge. 2. The pattern request is received from the merchandiser by the sampling manager for the following samples: Fit sample PP sample Size set sample Top sample

Types of samples
Proto sample It is made of out raw fabric. It is the first sample send to the buyer to check the fit of the garment. It is also known as development sample. Design sample

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All the designs are implemented in the garment in order to look the appearance and the design of the sample to the buyer. Size set sample All the sizes of a particular style are stitched is stitched and send to buyer. The buyer checks the grading in this sample. 3 samples are made. Every sample contains a review sheet and spec sheet . 4 proto sample of each size are made and 1 is send to Buyer. Merchandiser Vendor Sampling section. Pre-salesman sample 3. Generally the above 3 sample are not asked for by most of the buyers. Hence the next sample is made after the proto sample, is the pre-salesman sample. 4. Then samples are made to check the samples whether they are proper for the SRC 5. 3 samples are made. 6. These samples are sent to the buyer for the buyer for approval. 7. The sampling section also calculates the Thread Consumption. This is done using the meter. The meter is attached to the sewing machine and the garment is stitched. The meter gives the amount of thread consumed (in mtr). 8. They also calculate the thread using the measuring method. They stitch a meter length. Then the thread is ripped off and the length measures. 9. They then prepare the Thread Consumption Report. This report contains the details Type of stitch, Stitching length, SPI, Consumption per mtr. This is filled for all the stitches in the garment. 10. The weekly plan is then generated based on the requisition received from the merchandiser and it is handed over to the sampling coordinator, CAD in charge, merchandiser and the sampling QA in charge. 11. The pattern cum sample requisition is given to the sampling coordinator by the sampling manager for manual patterns as per the buyer requirements. 11

12. The CAD in charge receives the package file from the sampling coordinator and after discussion with the sampling manager and the technician the package file copy is handed over and discussed with the concerned pattern maker. 13. The pattern maker after discussing with the technician makes the patterns according the details in the package file and hand over the patterns to the CAD in charge. 14. The patterns along with the cutting plan are then handed over to the sampling coordinator who in turn hands them over to the cutters. 15. The requisition is raised for the fabric and accessories by the sampling coordinator and given to be signed by the sampling manager. 16. According to the weekly plan prepared by the sampling manager for the tailors and cutters, their individual targets are fixed. 17. The feeding helpers do the loading as per the requisition of accessories and fabric to the cutters and tailors 18. Cutting and stitching of samples is then started.

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PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL DEPARTMENT

RECEIVING ORDER BOOKING

GENERATE FACTORY PLANNING GENERATE PCD PLAN GENERATE LINE PLAN GENERATE FINISHING PLAN GENERATE HOURLY PRODUCTION REPORT

DISCUSS WITH UNIT

WORKING PROCEDURES The senior coordinator of the PPD receives the order booking from the GM merchandising through mail. It has the following details in it: style # quantity delivery date fabric in-house data accessories in-house data

The operation breakdown (OB) of the particular style is received from the IE department to fix the final inspection (FI) dates, the sample collected from the

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concerned merchandiser is studied with the OB and the CMD is checked for machines. Based on the order booking, factory planning is generated as per the delivery date and copied to the following: GM merchandising Merchandiser

FABRIC STORE DEPARTMENT

The basic functions of the fabric store are: Storage and Segregation of Fabric for production. Storage of dead stock. Maintain basic stock. Co-ordinate fabric flow between cutting, processing, and audit department. Coordination between the Suppliers, Fabric processing, audit and cutting Department. Maintain account and documents in order to ensure regular flow of fabric and no shortage. Report maintained in the fabric department. Maintain inspection reports. Physical Testing & Inspection: Fabric is inspected by using a 4 point system. It is a projection of total defects based on the total number of defects found during inspection of a sample as a basis for acceptance/rejection criteria. In this point inspection system penalty points are assigned base on the standard fault. There is only manual inspection. In 4 point system 40 points are acceptable. For minor defect cross sticker is place for identification For major defect part changed sticker is place for identification

Point assign for the 4 point system Fault Size 0 to 3 inches 14 Point Assigned 1

3 to 6 inches 6 to 9 inches 9 & above Upto 40 points are acceptable

2 3 4

The common defects observed are: Fabric uneven width Foreign yarn Missing yarn Reed mark Fabric shade Cuts Slub Stain Knot Selvedge thickness Fabric design Thickness

Trims department
Infrastructure: Racks Issuing table Fire extinguisher Tube light Fan Trims available in trim department: Threads Tissue paper Clip, PVC Patti Poly bag, single and master polybag. Buttons-14,16,18 Carton, gum tape 15 Main label Wash care label Barcode label Zipper-6 ,3 ,4 ,5 ,11 ,17,18 and 19 Taps Needles-DB*5=14and18,

DB*5=16, DB*17=14(button hole).

Process Flow First the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy contains various details such as the PCD Date, Sample Date, PCD Sample, Prototype Sample, Order chart, RMR. The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report (RMR). This report gives the details as to the which trims are to be received, the consumption per garment, the required quantity, the quantity ordered, the quantity received and the balance left to receive. There are 2 parts to the trims store. o Stitching Part o Packing Part When the trims are received, the trim unit checks them and makes an Inward Challan. In the quantity ordered, 3% extra is always added as for wastage considerations. Maintain a Daily Status Report of the trims that are issued from the main store and the balance left yet to receive. The inspection of the trims and accessories is done in the main unit itself. Hence, when the trims are received, they are only stored and issued to the production at the trims store. However, for buttons counting is done. Inspection is done in case of Labels and Shrinkage test for Elastic. Out of the 1 roll or 1 box, 100 labels are inspected for defects or damages. o If 4 defects are found, it is accepted. o If 5 or more defects are found, then another 100 are checked. If 4 defects are found, it is accepted. If 5 or more than 5 defects are found, then the entire lot is rejected.

In case of 100 labels, o 40 defective are acceptable 16

o 50 are unacceptable o And 40-50 are in the decision making process. There are many types of labels that are used in the production: o Main Label has the buyers name and logo o Content Label contains the content of the fabric o Size Label size of the garment is specified o Wash care Label has the wash care instructions for the garment Shrinkage (%) = [After wash Before wash)/before wash] * 100 In case there different shades in the buttons that are received, all the different shades of the buttons are stuck too in the chart. This chart goes to the merchandiser for the approval. The merchandiser signs the chart and sends back. The shades of the buttons (if present) are then approved form the buyer and signed. The rest of the trims are not inspected. After this inspection, a meeting is held between the trim store head, Industrial Engineer Department head, Production coordinator and the cutting department head. In this meeting it is decide as to which colour and style has to be cut first for production. This is decided on the trims that are received. As to for which style and colour the trims are available for production. This is taken by the feeding helper who maintains a register called the Cutting Book. All the details of the slip are copied into this book, except the Shrinkage. The helper also fills in the time.. The trims and accessories are then issued to the required dept as per the required qty. There is no fixed method of Issuing System followed here. The trims as and when received are kept together (mixed up). While issuing any of the stored are issued. After every 2-3 days the stocks are checked. The trims store also maintains Bin Card. These bin cards were found hanging by the racks that store the trims. Every section in the rack had an individual bin card containing all the details.

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The bin card contains the details of the trims that are being stored in the rack, how much is issued and the balance. Details Date, Received Qty, Date, Line no., issued qty, Balance.

Inspection for the selected trims & accessories Sl.No 1. 2. ITEM Sewing thread Button PARAMETERS CHECKED Shade no. Ply type Line no type No of holes colour type length Type of puller colour Size No of ply Printed matter TOLARANCE NIL NIL NIL NIL NIL NIL NIL NIL NIL NIL NIL +1-1/2 NIL NIL

3. 1. 2.

Zipper

Cartons

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

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Objective of cutting room: Cost control Cutting methods

Process Flow:
Defect management Spreading techniques Material handling Pilot run ok Marker planning done and Fabric consumption calculated Merchandiser sends the cutting details desample

Bulk run ok Maintaining Min using book

Spreading and cutting Panel checking (Top, middle, bottom)

Numbering

TICKETING /BUNDLING SEND FOR SEWING 19

MANUAL SPREADING AND CUTTING First a layslip is given from the minusing department. Minusing department gets the total quantity which has to be cut and the ration of the sizes in which marker planning is made, then as the pieces are cut they keep on subtracting that quantity from the minusing book. Mainly the cut order planning is done. After spreading 1 or 2 ply of a lay, QC checks for the length, width, face side, and shade variation of the fabric. When QC comes through any defect a sticker is pasted there and a brown sheet is placed so that that part can be recognised easily for recutting, Then the manual marker or plotted marker is placed over the lay and with straight knife patterns are cut. NUMBERING After the panels are cut, according to the size and shade bundles of parts of the garment are made which contain 20 pieces of each parts and each part of a garment are given the same ticket number. After numbering the parts of the garment in the bundle are counted and recorded in the cutting check list. FUSING After numbering the parts which has to be fused is send to the fusing incharge where they are fused. Before fusing the temperature, time, and pressure is evaluated by using viline fusing tape. After fusing the parts are send for bundling. And then stored in parts bank.

Observation
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Suggestion

Difference between the actual and standard spreading time.

Spreading techniques should be practiced by the operator.

Waste pieces should be given to Only big left over pieces are reused recycling industry
.

Out of 3 fusing machine only 2 machines are functional.

Machine should be repaired to reduce the time consumed.

SEWING DEPARTMENT
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PROCESS FLOW

MERCHANDISING

PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT ESTIMATED OPERATION BULLETIN

CUTTING DEPARTMENT CUT (FABRICS, PANELS)

TECHPACK, SEALED SAMPLES, PATTERN

SEWING SECTION

SIZE SET

PRODUCTION MANAGER, MERCHANDISER

PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING SAMPLING, CUTTING, QUALITY PLANNING, BUYER REPRESENTATIVE

FINAL OPERATION BULLETIN

BATCH SETTING

PILOT RUN

BULK PRODUCTION

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WORKING PROCEDURE IN SEWING FLOOR

Once the Order gets confirmed for a particular style the planning department comes in to action. It planned in well advance that which unit is going for Production as well as the Quantity. Then Factory Manager, decides the batch size, number of Batches and daily target to be achieved by the each batch. Other details such as no of stitches/inch at different areas, measurement for different sizes, placement of trims etc are finalized and standardized at the sampling stage. Report maintained by Sewing Department Daily production report Hourly production report Monthly labour report Batch order completion Batch planning file Cutting loading book Time and motion study Purchase order sheet Manpower report

Quality Check Quality check at Sewing Department conducted at two stages of production. 1. Inline quality check 2. End-line quality check Inline inspection is done after every critical operation. This are--- Collar end Sleeve and cuff end Front end Collar attaching Side seam (feed of arm)

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End of the line inspection is done after the last operation. The following reports are made after the quality checking. In line Inspection Report End line Inspection Report QC Report AQL Report

INSPECTION: The buyer recommends the suppliers to have an Independent Quality Assurance team responsible for quality control (internal audits). The team should be separated from the production team and under the direction of ownership, or fully independent. It is important that an internal quality control (audit) is done before offering the order for buyer inspection. Suppliers who use subcontractors for production must have their own QC's working at the subcontractors. It is the supplier's responsibility to make sure that the subcontractor follows all buyer quality standards and requirements. INTIAL INSPECTION: It is important that the QC team carries out initial inspections after a trial cutting of 100 -500 pieces covering all sizes and colours. This is to ensure conformance to requirements. This inspection is very important in order to get a smooth running production. At this stage it is still possible to find and solve problems without causing any major disturbance in the production. Information about an order's planned production start and finish is to be given to the buyer office. INLINE INSPECTION: The purpose of this inspection is to confirm that during the early stages of production, the agreed manufacturing specifications are being followed. The approved counter sample, and its duplicates, must be present at all stages of production. Information regarding style, measurements, accessories etc must be 24

available for everyone. All problems identified during inline inspections, must be corrected immediately by the supplier and must not be present at the time of the next buyers QC inspection. The goods must be inspected and records must be kept after each major stage during production e.g. Cutting: parts and panels size conformance, fabric or knit defects. Pre-assembly: general workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. Stitching, linking, collars, sleeves, position of pockets. Assembly: general workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. stitching, linking, pockets, zippers, position and fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes. Finishing/pressing: measurements. MAINTENANCE IN SEWING FLOOR Maintenance manager generates the reports from the complaint register for the following things: Helpers. Reports to be made by this department: A daily maintenance report which should include Collective break down report Needle consumption for the day Spares consumed for the day Machinery serviced on floor for the day 25 Recurrence of the problem Efficiency of mechanics Total break down time Line wise break down Machine wise break down overall workmanship, pressing appearance and

For the above system each factory is provided with mechanics, 1 Needle boy and 2

Corrective actions taken Machinery movement report (monthly) Idle machine report (weekly) Folders and attachments report

OBSERVATION

Observation Operator idle time is high. This is due to lack of feed from the previous operation. Material flow can be improved further. This will reduce the chances of bottlenecks. External disturbances such as gossips, calling operator for any other work, operator movement form one table to another etc are need to reduce. It has been observed that operator face doubts regarding the style variation. So to clear these doubt they have to move to the line supervisor. Thus the SAM increases.

Suggestion This can be reduced by further improving the operator allocation. This can also be improved by the proper operator allocation i.e. following the skill matrix of operators job and the no. of operators are needed to be assigned. External disturbances can only be reduced by setting rules and regulations. Individual table should have their own set of instruments. The operators need to be clear about the style and if possible the charts displaying the sewing procedure can be made available in the sewing line. This will reduce the SAM and may help in increasing the quality garment.

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FINISHING DEPARMENT
PROCESS FLOW FINISHING PROCESS 1. the garments are loaded into the button holing section and the approved sample is checked for the following: Button hole, button placement, eyelet placement etc. Thread runs No of buttons Two / Four hole buttons

2. Production targets are given to individual operators and pieces are checked randomly every hour. In case of defective pieces, they are returned to the batch for alteration and are kept a track of. 3. After button hole and button attach, the feeding helper loads the pieces into the trimming section. 4. The no. of pieces loaded is entered into the loading register. 5. All trimmers are given individual targets. In case of any defects, the pieces are returned to the batch for alteration, darners. The pieces then go for flat ironing after which the button closing is done and the extra button is attached. 6. After this, the pieces go for final check and presentation check. In the final check, the pieces are checked on the outside starting from one point and ending at the same. In the presentation check, the pieces are checked for the overall look of the garment-the fall, alignment of the plackets etc. 7. After this the pieces undergo measurement check where the garments are checked for compliance with the measurements in the buyers spec sheet. 8. After the measurement check the pieces go for a final pressing, tagging, polybag packing and carton packing (size-wise or color-wise as per the buyers requirement).

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Once the cartons are open ed the following has to be checked Count the no of pcs as per the ratio. Poly bags Hangers Folding Ironing Size, Main & wash care labels. Price tags Extra buttons Measurements Quality

EQUIPMENTS No. of tables - 30

Types of machine in finishing room: Collar pressing machine, no. of machine Waistband pressing machine, no. of machine Folding machine, no. of machine Pressing machine, no. of machine

INSPECTION AND MEASUREMENT (TIGHTEN INSPECTION) 1.5 A.Q.L% CONSIGNMENT LOT SIZE 1-50 51-90 91-150 SAMPLE SIZE 8 13 20 ACCEPTED REJECTED 0 0 0 28 1 1 1 2.5 A.Q.L% ACCEPTED REJECTED 0 0 1 1 1 2

151-280 281-500 501-1200 1201-3200

32 50 80 125

1 2 3 5

2 3 4 6

2 3 5 7

3 4 6 8

Observation The finishing unit has much more capacity than actual. This can be said on the basis that the full area is still not utilized and the industry is using the older process for finishing.

Suggestion Utilization of full area will provide for better movement area and disposing of the unused equipments and waste would give better working conditions.

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APPAREL INTERNSHIP HHEC GUINDY INDUSTRIAL ESTATE

PROJECT ON

ANALYSIS OF DELAY FACTORS IN SEWING FLOOR AND SOLUTION

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Analysis of delay factors in sewing floor and solution.

Synopsis Scope: It will provide a solution to minimize the delays, identify and rectify the problems which comes in sewing department. OBJECTIVES The main objective is to study the operator activities in garment industry and the percentage of distribution of operations and to analyse the personal and delay allowance by observing the operations by: Developing a system to minimize/control the delay that were found Find out the accurate% of time loss Identify concern factors and contribution of each of them and analysis them statically. How to increase the efficiency to achieve daily target

Factors Sewing Operator Productivity & Earnings. Sewing Operator Morale. Manufacturing Through-put Time. Products Produced may Require Greater Inspection.

Capacity planning is an operations strategy which has been considered as a means of estimating their capacity and do things better, thus improving their efficiency. By optimally utilising the existing capacity there is a chance to improve their efficiency and actually grow without necessarily investing a huge sum of money. The export oriented apparel manufacturers make goods on a make to order basis rather than on a make to sell strategy as a result there can not be over stocking of goods which has to be liquidated at a lower price later. However there can be frequent issues of idle capacity or shortage of capacity exist .In the whole process the manufacturer must ensure the timely shipment of goods to the buyer or customer. 31

Aspects of capacity 1. Capacity depends on the interaction of various resource constraints, such as equipment, labour availability, storage space etc. 2. Capacity is mix dependent, so capacity should be expressed in terms of aggregate measures. 3. Capacity is technologically based; an estimate of capacity implies some assumption about the technology used. 4. Capacity is dynamic, in that as a manufacturing facility gains experience in producing something, and discovers and removes successive bottlenecks; its total capacity tends to expand with time, even without major new investments. 5. Capacity may not be sustainable because normally when stated as so many units could have many meanings. For example it could mean the average output per month or the maximum achievable output for the period, or the best performance actually achieved in the past. 1. Capacity is storable, for instance maintaining excess equipment (to allow regular. Maintenance) or excess labour (to fill in for missing employees) is a form of stored capacity. Standard Allowed Minute is used to measure task or work content of a garment. This term is widely used by industrial engineers and production people in the garment manufacturing industry. For the estimation of cost of making a garment SAM value plays a very important role. In past scientists and apparel technicians did research on how much time to be allowed to do a job when one follows standard method during doing the job. According to the research study minute value has been defined for each movement needed to accomplish a job. Synthetic data is available for each movements. General Sewing Data (GSD) has defined set of codes for motion data for SAM calculation. There is also other methods through which one can calculate SAM of 32

a garment with out using synthetic data or GSD. Both method has been explained in the following.

Method Used 'predetermined time standard' (PTS) code are used to establish 'Standard Time' of a garment or other sewing products. Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM. Step 2: Study the motions of that operation. Stand by side of an operator (experienced one) and see the operator how he is doing it. Note all movement used by the operator in doing one complete cycle of work. See carefully again and recheck your note if all movement/motion are captured and correct. (for example motions are like - pick up parts one hand or two hand, align part on table or machine foot, realign plies, etc.) Step 3: List down all motion sequentially. Refer the synthetic data for TMU (Time measuring unit) values. For synthetic data you can refer GSD (without licence use of GSD code prohibited but for personal use and study one can refer GSD code and TMU values) or Sewing Performance Data table (SPD). Now you got TMU value for one operation (for example say it is 400 TMU). Convert total TMU into minutes (1 TMU=0.0006 minute). This is called as Basic Time in minutes. In this example it is 0.24 minutes. Step 4: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now you got Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.24+0.024+0.048) = 0.31 minutes. I like to refer you an article Secret Behind Calculation of Machine Time in SAM for better understand of SAM calculation. Method 2 - Through Time Study: Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM. Step 2: Take one stop watch. Stand by side of the operator. Capture cycle time for that operation. (cycle time total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation, i.e. time from pick up part of first piece to next pick up of the next piece). Do time study for consecutive five cycles. Discard if found abnormal time in any cycle. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time you got from time study is called cycle time. To convert this cycle time into basic time you have to multiply cycle time with operator performance rating. [Basic Time = Cycle Time X performance Rating] Step 3: Performance rating. Now you have to rate the operator at what performance 33

level he was doing the job seeing his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes Step 4: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now you got Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes.

Method 3 - Through Videography: Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM. Step 2: Take one camera. Stand by side of the operator. Capture video for that operation. (cycle time total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation, i.e. time from pick up part of first piece to next pick up of the next piece). Take video for connsecutive five cycles. Discard if found abnormal time in any cycle. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time you got from time study is called cycle time. To convert this cycle time into basic time you have to multiply cycle time with operator performance rating. [Basic Time = Cycle Time X performance Rating] Step 3: Performance rating. Now you have to rate the operator at what performance level he was doing the job seeing his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes Step 4: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now you got Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes. Advantages of videography 1. 2. 3. 4. Videography helps us to retain the data captured. Video can be used for further study. Comparative study can be done more efficiently. Rating can be done separately after time study.

COST ESTIMATION OF A GARMENT In the clothing manufacturing, supplier gives final manufacturing cost to buyer prior to order confirmation. For that factory prepares cost sheet estimating costs in different cost heads. Cost heads like Fabric, Trims and Packing materials, Labor cost and Overheads. 34

At costing stage, supplier only get one sample of the garment and specification of fabric and trims for the reference. For raw material cost suppliers directly take price quote from fabric and trim suppliers. For labor cost it is very important to estimate as near as it will be during actual production. The scientific method for estimating CM (Cut and make) cost of a garment involves following steps Determine SAM of the garment Calculate average line efficiency and Direct labor cost per minute How to calculate the minute cost of the operator Formula: Labor cost per minute = (Monthly salary of an operators/Total minutes available in the month) Suppose, Operator monthly salary is INR 5000.00 Total available capacity per month (in minute) = 26 working days*8 hours/day*60=12,480 minutes So, per minute cost of the direct labor = 5000/12480 = 0.4006 INR Formula for the projected labor cost per pieces CM cost = (SAM of the garment * Minute cost of the labor)/Line efficiency(%) If Sewing SAM is 15 minutes and line perform at 50% efficiency then estimated garment make cost = 15*0.40/50% =12 INR And Cutting SAM is 2 minutes and cutting room perform at 50% efficiency then estimated cutting cost = 2*0.40/50%=1.6 INR So, Total estimated CM cost of the garment = (12.00+1.60) = 13.60 INR Following above formula easily one can estimate garment CM cost and use it for the product costing. Line output varies depending on the line efficiency. When a line performs at lower efficiency than standard (100%) line will produce less units in a day compared to what line could make at 100% efficiency. But factory spends same amount of money as salary whether line perform at 100% efficiency or less. So, per unit cost will increase when line performs at lower efficiency

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Purpose and Objectives of the project The purpose of this project is to examine the delay factors and find solution for the given lines. The specific objectives arising from the overall purpose are to: To investigate the factors affecting the throughput time and causes responsible for delays in production. To investigate and document factors influencing the capacity utilisation decisions. Road Map Study the existing layout and Infrastructure of the two lines. Study the absenteeism pattern. Figure out the operator behaviour and existent working trends. Analyse the result.

Working methodology: Calculation of existing floor space and its utilization. Study the allocation of existing human and material resources and its utilization. Possible capacity if working at stated efficiency. Data collection from productivity Statistical analysis of collected data Comparison of data and process

36

Finding the error in the available process and system Developing step by step method to eliminate these errors.

Delay factors: Absenteeism Absenteeism is the most occurring and major cause responsible for the delay in production and the major cause for absenteeism is the location of the company and the employment pattern. The company is located in Guindy and is surrounded by IT companies hence, the operators tend to move out for comparatively easy jobs and only the operators who want to earn more stay at the factory and hence they are less punctual as compared to other factories. Operator idleness Operator idleness is persistent due to waiting on work as work is not fed to the operators working at faster rate whereas some operators are very slow and need training to cope with the skilled workers. Absenteeism Operator idleness(waiting on work) Many machines in a line are not in use Restricted movement area Attachment not ready Machine breakdown Bottleneck No feeding for cutting department Idleness in presence of work Poor flow of operation Uneven distribution of work

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Unused machines are left idle in the line Unused machines should be removed or corrected as it consumes time for transportation and restrictes the movement area.

Restricted movement area Restricted movement area helps in adding on to the throughput time as more time is taken in transportation and workers cannot move freely. Attachment not ready Machine breakdown Bottleneck No feeding for cutting department Idleness in presence of work Poor flow of operation Uneven distribution of work

Factor due to shortcoming of management: Control of operation Line balancing Quality control Batch layout Maintenance

Delay due to control of operations: Delay due to absenteeism Idleness

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Poor performance Rework/alteration

Types of production losses: Unavoidable losses Avoidable losses

Unavoidable losses Machine setup time Some material handling Personal fatigue time Inspection and instruction to operator Delay allowance like bobbin change, needle change

Avoidable losses Response time for system balancing Reduction in size of bottleneck operation Frequently m/c breakdown Excessive material handling Late start, early stops, low speed Break down maintenance

Work content and delays Basic work content: Basic work content is irreducible time theoretically required to produce one unit of output. Work content means the amount of work contained in a given product or process measured in man hours or machine hours.

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Total work content: The total of basic content and excess time due to basic content and excess time due to defects in design or specification of the products or the time due to inefficient method of manufacture or operation.

Time due to inefficient method of manufacture or operation. DELAYS: Delays is the time for which the worker or machine or both are idle due to shortcoming of management or the workers. STRENGTHING THE PRODUCTIVITY ACTIVITY CAN HELP IN

REDUCING THE LEAD TIME SIGNIFICANTLY: Ensuring availability of raw material details and construction details by means of sample requisition checklist. Problem at the sampling stage should be recorded. Industrial engineering department should work out exact requirement of exact requirement of work aids for critical operation before a new style is loaded on production floor. WORK STATION AND DESIGN The workstation design affects the production rate efficiency and the accuracy with which an operation can be performed. The work station not only needs space for the workers and the machine there are plenty of other items which are also needs accommodation. For the movements of material handling Easy access to safety stops in case of emergency Easy access to machine for inspection Lubrication Maintenance Repair Easy for machine installation It will easy for the gap between the machines for smooth operation. Movement of the operator to the centre table would be easy. 40

TOTAL WORK CONTENT AND DELAY

BASIC WORK CONTENT Total work cont of product

Design complication of product Lack of standardization Excessive product variety Work content added

Ineffective planning Lack of raw materials Ineffective batch setting Wrong method Poor production control Poor maintenance

inefficient methods

DELAY CAUSE, RESPONSIBILITIES AND SUGGETIONS

Average garment production per day 41

Quality is directly prepositional to the production so quality would be maintained for the better production.

OBESERVATION OF A-LINE DURING SHIRT PRODUCTION IDLE TIME 42

The average idle time between back centre stitch and pocket batch placket is = Average thread breakage time= The idle average time between pocket making stitch and pocket double needle is = Wastage of time during loss of electricity= Material flow delay time due to pass of material= Idleness during presence of work= Absenteeism= Machine breakdown time= Operator idealness =

CONCLUSION 43

For every production delay factors are the major reason for the low production of a garments. Effective planning is important to minimise the delay factors. It should me minimise by the better management, like due to low efficiency and high absenteeism line balancing get affected and due to improper line balancing lots of waiting time involved in the line, one operator low efficiency will be the reason of whole line down production.

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PROJECT ON:
Analysis on the Companys Style Changeover Process with respect to SMED Method.

Single Minute Exchange of Die (SMED)

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Single Minute Exchange of Die (SMED) is one of the lean tools for reducing waste in a manufacturing process. It provides a rapid and efficient way of converting a manufacturing process from running the current product to running the next product. This rapid changeover is essential to reduce production lot sizes and thereby improve flow which is a 'Lean' aim. It is also often referred to as Quick Changeover (QCO). The phrase "single minute" does not mean that all changeovers and start-ups should take only one minute, but that they should take less than 10 minutes (in other words, "single digit minute"). Steps of SMED Theoretically SMED is defined in four steps: 1. Suppress useless operations 2. Work together 3. Simplify fittings and fasteners 4. Suppress adjustments and trials Note: These steps are non-sequential. Steps 1 and 2 focus on organizational improvement; steps 3 and 4 focus on design improvement. SMED methodology can be easily defined in six steps. Practically high quality of analytical ability and devotion is required to follow the steps. It consists of : Observing the current changeover process Identifying internal and external activities Converting activities from internal to external set up Increasing efficiency of the remaining internal activities Optimizing the start up time Increasing efficiency of external activities

There are series of activities which should be performed before changeover to reduce the set up time. All these activities are important and should be performed timely by the responsible person. These activities can be divided in three phases: Planning Phase: The activities in this phase are essential prerequisite to the activities of preparatory phase. Preparation Phase: The activities in this phase involve completion of external activities. Operating Phase: The activities in this phase involve execution of changeover.

Planning Phase Line Plan: Planning of line plan should be done in a manner that loading of upcoming style will occur four days after receiving updated line plan. Loading of styles 46

similar to previous running styles in the respective lines helps in achieving quicker changeover and better productivity. Operation Bulletin: Operation Bulletin of upcoming style should be revised on the basis of line plan by IE 3 days prior to style loading. Operation Bulletin developed at sampling room should be crosschecked with the reference sample by IE executive and updated for required changes. After finalizing operation bulletin, Machine layout should be developed by IE Executive.

Mock Sample: Supervisor should be informed about upcoming style, on the basis of line plan, 3 days prior to style loading, to prepare the mock sample. It is the replica of upcoming style in terms of design details. The purpose of mock sample preparation is to make supervisor acquainted with all the operations. It is beneficial as it helps in early identification of: Critical operations Necessary templates. Method details

Preparation of mock sample should be completed on the same day. Machine Plan: Machine Plan preparation is a fundamental planning tool for SMED. It involves internal and external element segregation for new style by comparing operation bulletin of old and new style. It should be prepared 3 days prior to loading. It is a record of: Operation Type Machine Type (Segregated as internal/external) Machine Number SPI Required Settings Critical/External Independent Operation Additional Operator/Helper

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Status Check: Status of Cutting, Outsourcing and Trims should be checked by the supervisor 3 days prior to loading of new style and related issues should be discussed in Internal PPM. It is necessary to check the status of all the inputs in advance, to prevent off standard time arising due to waiting for raw material inline.

Internal Pre Production Meeting: Internal PPM should be held 2 days prior to style loading, after completion of preliminary activities (OB, Mock sample & Status check). The purpose of Internal PPM is to discuss new style in advance to anticipate problems and their respective measures. The duration of PPM should be less than 10 minutes. Internal Pre Production Meeting is not mandatory for repeat styles. Internal PPM is held in the presence of: Production Manager Quality Head Floor In-charge Maintenance Head Supervisor Preparatory Head

Internal PPM involves discussion on following topics: Mock Sample: Sample prepared by supervisor should be checked by Quality Head and CTP (Critical to Production) operations should be discussed. Cutting and Trim status: Cutting and outsourcing status issues should be discussed and Production Manager should be held responsible to get them sorted. Trim status issues should be communicated to merchandising department by Production Manager. Quality Specifications: CTQ (Critical to Quality) operations and PP comments are discussed by Quality Head. Any changes in the specifications from the reference sample should also be conveyed. Machine, Folder and Attachment Status: Requirement for any new folder, attachment or machine for new style, analyzed during machine plan preparation, is also discussed by IE in the meeting. The order 48

should be placed for the same after crosschecking with maintenance department on the same day. Template Preparation: QC should discuss about templates required. Operator Allocation Plan: Based on the machine plan Floor In-charge will decide operator allocation. Only discussion for operator allocation at critical operations is held in the meeting.

A PPM report should be documented in the meeting by Industrial Engineer and concerned issues are solved by the responsible persons. Machine plan is handed over to maintenance department in the Internal PPM. All the concerns regarding upcoming style are discussed and solved in Internal PPM.

Preparation Phase. External Machine Setting: External machines should be set by the mechanic according to the machine plan. The settings should be complete a day prior to loading of new style. Machine setting includes: Gauge change Folder/ Presser Foot change, Needle addition /removal SPI adjustment Programming

The stitch quality should be approved by Quality Checker. After completion of machine setting the machine should be tagged indicating the line and style for which the machine is set. Preparatory Section Status: Preparatory Section status should be checked by supervisor one day prior to style loading and problems should be discussed with preparatory head and solved to get timely loading. Template Preparation: Patterns should be issued by supervisor one day prior to style loading. The number of patterns should be checked and requirements of any other pattern should be communicated to CAD/ Sampling room immediately. The templates should be prepared by supervisor and approved by QC. 49

 Day of Changeover: Inline Loading Trims Issue: Trims like threads, zippers labels, buttons etc. should be issued at least 2 hours before old style ends at first operation. Cut part loading: Cut part loading should also be done at the same time. It should be checked by feeding helper while loading if all the parts are present. Parts coming from preparatory section should be counted before loading so that any missing parts can be communicated to preparatory section at the earliest. Early inline loading is necessary to reduce the off standard time. Start of Independent Operations: Presence of Floor In-charge, Supervisor, QC and Mechanic is necessary during complete changeover. Manual operations: Manual operations such as ironing and marking should start before the succeeding operation ends to create enough WIP at the first operation. External Independent Operations: External Independent operations, as the name suggests, are independent of the style running in the line, so these can be started before completion of old style. It helps in creating enough WIP and reducing off standard time as all the trials can be done outside the line.

Operating Phase.. Start of Dependent Operations: When the operation of old style ends, the machine settings for new style should be done by the mechanic inline. The operation should be demonstrated by supervisor to operator and the operator should start the operation Procedure for starting operation of new style: Internal Machine Setting by Mechanic according to specifications. Operation Demonstration by Supervisor. First piece by the Quality Check. Machine setting, if required. 50

Operation performed by operator. Quality Check for the complete bundle.

For initial operations bundle check for initial 5-10 bundles should be done by QC incharge, so that no faulty piece is passed to the next operation. The close attention given to quality at critical operations helps to improve the quality of work performed leading to reduced off standard time. If quality is not consistent even after checking of 10 bundles then the operation should be analyzed by supervisor to identify the root cause of problem and solve. Style Change Analysis Style change analysis report should be documented for each style by IE person to analyze the problems faced during the changeover. All the problems faced during style analysis should be discussed in the style review meeting which will be held a day after completion of changeover.

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Road Map:

Observing the current changeover process

(The observation is done with resemblance to SMED Method)

Status Sheet
Dated : 6th july,2012 5AC21008 Buyer: Buyer Table no : (i)
Serial No Activity Name Size set Sample prepared Operation Bulletin Line plan Machine Plan Status Check (Cutting, Outsourcing and Trims) Outsourcing completed Trims ready Yes

Style no: Phase type: Planning Phase

No

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Note: The activities shown are needed to be finished 3 days before the style change 52

Status Sheet
Dated : 7th july,2012 5AC21008 Buyer: Orvis (Activities Pending) Table no : (ii)
Serial No

Style no: Phase type: Planning Phase

1. 2. 3.

Activity Name Operational bulletin Line plan Machine plan

Yes

No

Planning Phase(activities to be finished)

Serial No

4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Activity Name Pre-production meeting Revision operation Bulletin Revision Line plan Revision Machine Plan Size set approved Fabric issued for cutting Cutting started

Yes

No

Note: The activities shown are needed to be finished 2 days before the style change

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Status Sheet
Dated : 8th july,2012 Buyer: Orvis Style no: 5AC21008 Phase type: Preparation Phase Activities Pending Table no : (iii)
Serial No

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Activity Name operation Bulletin Line plan Machine Plan Pre-production meeting Revision operation Bulletin Revision Line plan Revision Machine Plan Size set approved Cutting started

Yes

No

( Activities To Be Finished On 8th July) 54

Serial No 14. 15. 16. 17.

Activity Name Cutting buffer ready External machine setting Preparatory Section Status as required Template preparation

Yes

No

Note: The activities shown are needed to be finished 2 days before the style change

Status Sheet
Dated : 9th july,2010 5AC21008 Buyer: Orvis

(Scheduled day for the style changeover)

Style no: Activities Pending Table no : (iv)

Serial No

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Activity Name Preproduction meeting operation Bulletin Line plan Machine Plan Size set ready Fabric issued for cutting Revision operation Bulletin Revision Line plan Revision Machine Plan

Yes

No

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10. 11. 12. 13. 14.

15.

Size set approved Fabric issued for cutting Cutting started Cutting buffer ready External machine setting Template prep.

Note: The activities shown are needed to be finished before the day of style change

Since the scheduled styled is not inserted in the line the table for the activities needed to happen is not shown The activities are shown that are needed to be finished before the style change. Here, it can be clearly noticed that 64.3% activities are still unfinished. But since the required cannot be finished on schedule ,it was decided to insert the another style which was supposed to finish in one day as only 281 pieces were needed to be completed. But 281 pieces cannot be finished with the line of capacity 500 pcs(actual 320 pcs) perday!! So the work extended for one more day extra

Status Sheet
Dated : 12 july,2010 5AC21008 Buyer: Orvis
th

(Actual day for the style changeover)

Style no: Phase Type : Operational Phase Table no : (v)

Serial No

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Activity Name Line plan Machine Plan Size set ready Fabric issued for cutting Pre-production meeting Revision operation Bulletin Revision Line plan Revision Machine Plan Cutting buffer ready

Yes

No

Remarks Line Planning is based on experiences Also machine Planning is based on experiences

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10. 11.

External machine setting Template preperation

Note: The activities shown are needed to be finished before a day of scheduled style change
Serial No 12. 13. Activity Name Trims issued(2hr prior) Cut part loading Yes no Remarks

The efficiency of the company improved by eliminating wastage of time.

Observation
Poor flow of operation and bundle handling.

Reason
Unorganized set-up of machines.

Solution
If the unused machines are removed or setup at another place, it would help in-

Results
Setting up a line ( production system). Better bundle handling and less wastage, unwanted stains could be prevented. Would give better visibility to management employes and bring in discipline. 57

Would reduce wastage of time by atleast an hour or two as it is prevelant in the company. Ease of flow of bundles as no one needs to carry the sewn parts just pass on to the next. Waiting for work and hence, idleness could be abolished to an extent.

Observation
Very high througput time. ( 15 ladies tops in 8 hours by 6 operators ).

Reasons
Slow work by in experienced operators, attachments not ready, enough workers not available.

Solution
If the work shall be divided on the basis of operator skill matrix, then the production can be increased. For example if we divide the work content as, unskilled operators make attachments and fusing ready and then pass it on the experienced operators, who would be given the stitching operations will result in more production. The operators should be encouraged or tempted to work more to earn more, it will help the company to save its electricity bill by achieving higher targets in less time.

Observation
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Too much time wastage in thread breakage and needle breakage.

Reason
Due to lack of routine maintenance and check up, while some machines are old and hence more problem occur in old machines.

Solution
Autonomous maintenance Operators can be given instructions about lubricating and tightening of any loose screws on their own after the end of the day or routine maintainance can be adopted.

Results
The machine will run for longer time than now. The machines will run more efficiently and smoothly, hence, resulting in less thread breakage and needle breakage.

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