Professional Documents
Culture Documents
CHENNAI
A Summer Internship Report submitted in partial Fulfilment of the requirement for the award of Degree in Bachelors of Fashion Technology Apparel Production
DECLARATION
We Deepak Singh, Hemant Pandey, Rakesh and Shweta R. Joshi, students of Department Of Fashion Technology, hereby declare that the Apparel Internship Report submitted to the Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT Chennai as part of our academic requirement is an original work done by us under the guidance of Ms. Divya Satyan, DFT, NIFT Chennai.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Mario DSouza, Director, Mccoy Clothing Pvt. Ltd. for allowing us to carry our internship in his organization. We would also like to thank Mr. Thyagrajan ( corporate officer, Mccoy ), our mentor in the industry, who helped us in carrying our the internship forward with his valuable guidance and help. We would also like to thank Mr. Ramlingam( Production Manager, Mccoy2 ), Mr. Rizwan ( Production Manager, Mccoy3 ) Mr. Prakshan ( Production
Manager, Mccoy1 ), for helping us with their guidance, providing us all the required data and allowing us to visit the different departments in their units in order to implement our learning. We also extend our acknowledgement to Mr. Ramnathan , HR Manager Ms. Prabha , PPC Ms. Veni , Merchandising Mr. Radhakrishnan , Sampling Mr. Subhramanian & Mr. Prabhakaran , Fabric store Mr. Ajay & Ms. Saji , Cutting Mr. Babu, Finishing Special thanks are reserved for the given by the staff, employees and the operators of Mccoy1, Mccoy2, Mccoy3 who helped us throughout our Internship and guided us in the finer nuances. The tremendous response given by them has been helpful in achieving the aims and objectives behind the internship. During the internship, we got tremendous chance to learn about the organization and different systems with full co-operation and support from the employees of the company. We would like to thank our honourable faculty mentor Mrs. Divya Satyan whose intelligent scrutinies lead to the improvement and development from the raw facts to this meaningful information and without whose concern and efforts, this internship would not have been possible.
PREFACE
The industry internship is all about learning and gaining experiences. After completing three years of theoretical study as per our course curriculum we were exposed to the Garment Industry to understand the practical aspect through an eight week summer internship. Our internship at Mccoy Clothing Pvt. Ltd. a garment export house in Chennai has acquainted us in understanding its every department. This report will give you the brief outlook of the export house and the working of a manufacturing format taking the case as Mccoy Clothing Pvt. Ltd.
Further there are studies that includes comparative study of Progressive Bundle System and Hanger System to improve the production.
The Projects undertaken include : Current material flow in Mccoy-1 and Mccoy-3, highlights their drawbacks and provides suggestion for better material flow. Comparative method study of assembly section operations of both Mccoy-1 & Mccoy-3. Cost - Benefit analysis for implementing hanger system in Mccoy-3. Implementing lean manufacturing system to improve productivity.
Last but not the least is the suggestions to the industry for the increment of the productivity and better performance.
CONTENT
1. Company Profile 2. Vision, Mission & Corporate Goal 3. Organisation Hierarchy 4. Organogram 5. Department Process Flow 6. Plant Layout 7. Merchandising Department 8. Sampling Department 9. PPC 10. Fabric and Trim Store 11. Factory Trim Store 12. Cutting Department 13. Cutting Analysis 14. Sewing Department 15. Sewing Analysis 16. Finishing 17. Washing 18. Project 1 19. Module I 20. Module II 21. Module III 23. ANNEXURES
COMPANY PROFILE
Name of company : Mccoy Clothing Pvt Ltd
Established in
: 1997 : 40 50 crore
Annual Turnover
Name of Directors
: Mr. N. Ramesh Mr. Mario D Souza Mr. K.M. Thakker No. 3/475 Khazura Garden, 2nd street Neelangarai, Chennai 600041
Address of Factory
: 1)
2)
3)
4)
CORPORATE VISION Mccoy Clothing Vision statement states that : We will be the one company committed to continuously providing customer value, worker dignity, shareholder satisfaction and society welfare.
PRINCIPLES FOLLOWED, TO ACHIEVE THE VISION There are the following principles which are being followed by the Mccoy in order to achieve and go beyond its vision. These guiding principles are as follows : In time action. Clear understanding of customers instructions. Clear communication with vendors. Clear instructions for production. Strict compliance with quality control system. Total devotion maintains first class quality standard. Absolute efforts for in time shipments. Career development opportunities for employees. MISSION STATEMENT Mccoy has quite long mission statement which covers all the components of mission statement like what we are? What we do? And how we do? It states that We earnestly and sincerely look forward to satisfying our clientele. We are continuously researching in innovation and the latest technology to keep pace with market requirements. We pay attention to cost effectiveness; therefore we are able to give quality at competitive prices. We pay due attention to our environment and avoid pollution. Last but not least, we abhor child and forced labor. Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai 7
CORPORATE GOALS The three pillars on which the Mccoy Clothing Pvt. Ltd. has its corporate structure are 1. Continuous improvement 2.Customers satisfaction 3.Quality of product and system All these pillars are the pillars of quality system which the organization owns in order to satisfy its customers. Continuous improvement means the process of quality is not still at a certain point, it continuously moving towards the improvement and cant be still to some location, and the sole objective of this continuous improvement is to satisfy the customers need by giving the customer the quality products
CLIENTS
ESPIRIT , Germany TOM TAILOR , Germany S- OLIVER , Germany GINTONIC , Germany LEE & WRANGLER Europe QUICK SILVER , USA & Europe RVCA BENETTON LEVIS STRATUSS
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ORGANOGRAM
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
PRODUCTION FILE WORK ORDER
PRODUCTION MANAGER
OPERATION BULLETIN
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
STORE
TRIMS
SEWING SECTION
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SAMPLING
FABRIC UNITSTORE
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
SEWING SECTION
TRIM STORE
FINISHING
QUALITY
PACKAGING
SHIPMENT
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13
Toilet
Material Keeping Table Factory Manager Cabin Cuff Preparation Collar Preparation Lockers Front, Back, Sleeve Preparation Assembly line Centre table Front, Back, Sleeve Preparation Assembly line Centre table
Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai Trims Store Pressing Button, Button hole Drinking Water
Power House
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Sewing lines
Trims Store
Assembly line Hanger System Hanger System Assembly line Hanger System
Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai Sorting Ironing line Checking Sewing line Storing table Sewing line Sewing line
Checking
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checking
Cutting Table
Cutting Table
Cutting Table
Parts keeping
Parts keeping
Band knife
Band knife
Cutting Table
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Lockers Toilet
Personel H department
A N G E R S H A N G E R S H A N G E R S H A N G E R
Auditing department
Band Knife Cutting Machine Cutting Table Cutting Table Cutting Table
Fusing Machine
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MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
WORK PROCESS OF A MERCHANDISER
BUYER
MERCHANDISER
SAMPLING
FABRIC
TESTING
ACCESSORIES
PRODUCTION
QUALITY CHECK
DOCUMENTATION
SHIPPING
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MERCHANDISING
Production merchandising begins with receiving order from the buyer , to sample generating, raw material procurement, getting production done on time and finally shipment. Merchandiser acts as a link between buyer and manufacturer and various departments within manufacturing unit (i.e. sampling, fabric and trim store, cutting, sewing & shipment departments ).
PACKAGE FILE
It consist of following reports List of orders pasted on the left hand inside cover of the file. Tech pack. CAD marker-costing and factory RMR-order wise and summary chart Trim pro forma invoices from the supplier. Confirmation of the trim Commercial invoices (C.I.) Confirmation of the CI from the store Order chart from the buyer P.O. copies from the buyers Fabric order confirmations with approved fabrics swatches Time and action calendar of TS for all orders. Hard copy of all incoming and outgoing crucial and important mails that may be required for future references (buyer related) Mills fabric reports-checking, testing Internal fabric reports-checking, testing GPT reports Buyer approvedo Trim card
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o Shade bands o Wash swatch/wash mocks o Embroidery/printing Minutes of PP meeting Hard copies of in/out mails with respect to production-either with PPD/QA/factory-all concerned and important mails Size set-passed comments-(buyers) Pilot-approval comments Internal quality audit reports before final inspection. Packing list Invoice received from shipping department for the purpose of shipment. Dispatch details i.e. date LR Number dispatched to which CHA destination vehicle number, number of cartons, number of pieces and sending unit.
ACTIVITIES OF A MERCHANDISER
Sampling Fabric Accessories Testing Production Quality Check Documentation Shipping/Forwarding
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WORKING PROCEDURES
The orders are generally received on mail. The merchandiser has to take a hard copy of it. The merchandiser discusses the delivery date with head of Merchandising and obtains his signature confirming the delivery date. The relevant documents maintained with merchandising department are. o Tech Pack o Previous CAD marker o Trim charts o Fabrics cuttings o Thread approval o Embroidery or print approval
The orders are of three types with respect to their lead time : o Short lead time o Medium lead time o Long lead time 30 days 45 days 60-90 days
In an order of 60 days lead time the merchandiser has nearly 45 days for fabric procurement and balance 15 days for production. Sampling starts one season earlier and the lead time does not include sampling time. No. of styles per season varies from buyer to buyer. o Esprit o S Oliver o Lee & Wrangler
TNA( time and application chart ) is prepared , using reverse timing from the shipment date.
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First production time is calculated taking in consideration the available capacity of each unit, then fabric and trims procurement dates are generated. For fabric first quotation is received from different mills and then their available capacity and delivery date is checked and then the order is placed. Generally the buyers only give fabric details without any swatch so first Desk loom samples are received from the manufacturers and sent to the buying house for fabric confirmation. Once the fabric is confirmed the mills start the bulk production. Swatch and trim card is generated in the merchandising department as per the buyer specification and after confirmation from the buying house. Some of the trims are received from buyer nominated vendors and others are generated by vendors chosen by the merchandiser. The merchandising department forwards the tech pack received from the buyer to the sampling department which instantly starts working on proto sample. The merchandiser also receives comments on different samples and forwards it to the sampling department for corrections if required. The merchandiser receives daily production report from the manufacturing units and forwards it to the buyer. Merchandiser also keeps track of fabric arrival in store, its checking status, fabric quality, delay in fabric procurement, fabric available to cutting section, production delay due to fabric unavailability, etc. It is the duty of the merchandiser to make proper arrangement of fabric and trims so that the production does not gets delayed due to shortage. In case of delay in shipment it is the duty of merchandise to negotiate with the buyer. The duty of merchandising department ends only after the order gets shipped.
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SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
PROCESS FLOW: TO RECEIVE AND STUDY PACKAGE FILE
APPROVE PATTERNS
WORKING PROCEDURES
The package file is received from the merchandiser and the copies of it are handed over to the sampling manager, CAD in charge, sampling technician and the sampling QA in charge. The pattern request is received from the merchandiser by the sampling manager for the following samples: Fit sample PP sample Size set sample Sealer sample Top sample GPT sample Trial sample Re-fit sample
The weekly plan is then generated based on the requisition received form the merchandiser and it is handed over to the sampling coordinator, CAD in charge, merchandiser and the sampling QA in charge. The pattern cum sample requisition is given to the sampling coordinator by the sampling manager requirements. The CAD in charge receives the package file from the sampling coordinator and after discussion with the sampling manager and the technician the package file copy is handed over and discussed with the concerned pattern maker. The pattern maker after discussing with the technician makes the patterns according the details in the package file and hand over the patterns to the CAD in charge. for manual patterns as per the buyer
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After the patterns are received by the CAD in charge, they are checked and are handed over to the CAD operators for digitizing, grading and adding shrinkage allowance (on a software called Investronica ) The patterns along with the cutting plan are then handed over to the sampling coordinator who in turn hands them over to the cutters. The requisition is raised for the fabric and accessories by the sampling coordinator and given to be signed by the sampling manager. According to the weekly plan prepared by the sampling manager for the tailors and cutters, their individual targets are fixed. The feeding helpers do the loading as per the requisition of accessories and fabric to the cutters and tailors The thread consumption is prepared and given to the sampling manger by the sampling coordinator from which the thread consumption chart is generated. After receiving the fabric, the QA in charge holds a meeting with all in-line and end-line QAs before the style starts. Cutting and stitching of samples is then started. Measurement audit reports of in-line and end-line QAs are checked and the final inspection report of samples is generated for the finished samples. The sampling manager discusses with the merchandiser for the rejected samples and records them. The approved samples are handed over to the merchandiser with comments. In case of any clarification required regarding the samples the merchandiser is contacted.
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TYPES OF SAMPLES
PROTO SAMPLE it is made of out raw fabric or substitute fabric. It is the first sample send to the buyer for approval. It is also known as development sample. Three proto sample are made each for Buyer Buying House Factory Counter
SALESMAN SAMPLE Original trims and fabric are used in order to give the appearance and the design of the sample to the buyer. And to check the fit of the sample
SIZE SET SAMPLE A set of all sizes of the given style are stitched and send to buyer using graded spec sheet. The buyer checks the grading in this sample.
SEALER SAMPLE This sample is made after the pre production sample with changes (if any) or no change and sealed so that the production can be started. It accompanies a package which contains following reports: Fabric package test report. Garment package test report.
PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE This is generally made after the approval of styles, which is to be produced in bulk. This is again send for the review of the buyer. The buyer sends the comment (if any) or the approval. 5 samples are made: 2 for Buyer 1 for Factory 1 for Buying Agent
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PILOT RUN SAMPLE Pilot run sample is made using bulk fabric. Three samples of each size is made. The quality of samples is then checked by buying house.
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PLANNIN
GENERATE PCD PLAN
WORKING PROCEDURES
The senior coordinator of the PPD receives the order booking from the head merchandising through mail. It has the following details in it: style # quantity delivery date fabric in-house data accessories in-house data
The operation breakdown of the particular style is done to fix the final inspection (FI) dates, the sample collected from the concerned merchandiser is studied with the OB and machine reqirements are checked. Based on the order booking, factory planning is generated as per the delivery date and copied to the following: Head merchandising Merchandiser
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A Planned Cut Date ( PCD ) plan is generated based on the factory plan and copied to the following: Head merchandising Merchandiser Factory manager
Depending on the buyer, style and the factory status, it is discussed with the concerned factory manager. Line wise planning is then generated based on the style and date wise and copied to the following: Head merchandising Merchandiser Factory manager
Based on the line plans, the PPD coordinator follows up with the factories on an hourly basis. In case the actual production deviates from the planned production, he speaks with the factory manager to find out the reasons for low production or efficiency. The finishing plan is generated style wise and date wise and copied to the following: Head merchandising Merchandiser Factory manager
Based on the finishing plan, follow up with factories on an hourly basis is done. The head of the PPD keeps a track of the final inspection dates and to coordinate with the quality head , in case of re-screening for revised FI dates. On a daily basis the status of each style is updated to the MD.
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S.NO 1
PARTICULARS
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CUTTING
PRODUCTION
KAJA BUTTON
FINISHING
PACKING
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Style Name
Po.No
Qty
RTTL
3
4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
32
33
TOTAL 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
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PACKING LIST Supplier Name & Address: Consignee: Order No. Style No. Total Quantity Packing Type No. of CNT Country of origin : : : : : :
CARTON NUMBER
NO OF CTN
NO OF PCS
COLOR NO
XL
XXL
TOTAL
NET WT KGS
MEASUREMENT
0.00
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S.OLIVER Bemd Freier Gmbh & co .KG S.Oliver Strable 1 97228 Rottendorf Germany CTN NO'S
SUMMARY S.NO 1 COLOUR QTY Order Ship Diff 2 Order Ship Diff Total Order Total Ship Diff S M L XL XXL TOTAL 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
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PRODUCTION STATUS AS ON
ART NO ORD QTY CUT QTY REQ FABRIC REC BAL CUTTING TODAY RTTL BAL PRINTING SEND RECD PRODN TODAY RTTL EMBROIDERY SEND RECD WASHING SEND RECD PACKING TOTAL RTTL
RTTL
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o Security - 3 o Sweeper - 2 The area of store is 12000 X 2 ( two floors ) sq. feet approx. Ground floor is used for fabric storage and 1st floor for trims and packing materials. There are 8 operators for checking, working on 4 tables. Monthly capacity of the store is approximately 1 lack meters of fabric, and the fabric is kept in store for approx 10 days. Fabric is sourced mainly form : o Erode o Selum o Tiruppur o Pollache o Bhuvani o Bangalore o Ahmadabad The fabric suppliers are : o Ardhanari loom centre o Premier mills o Manoj textiles
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o Annamar textiles o Gangotri textiles o Conica fab o B.P. textiles o Mahalakshmi textiles o Ramakumar tex o P.S. international
The basic functions of the fabric store are: Storage and Segregation of Fabric for production. Storage of dead stock. Maintain basic stock. Co-ordinate fabric flow between cutting, processing, and audit department. Coordination between the Suppliers, Fabric processing, audit and cutting Department. Maintain account and documents in order to ensure regular flow of fabric and no shortage. Report maintained in the fabric department. Maintain inspection reports. Maintain inwards/outwards D.C. Approval reports about shade variation, width etc. Lab reports as inspection, GSM value, fastness, shrinkage etc Fabric status file
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PHYSICAL TESTING & INSPECTION: 100% fabric inspection is done at the store. 10% fabric inspection is done by the fabric manufacturer. Fabric is inspected by using a 4 point system. It is a projection of total defects based on the total number of defects found during inspection of a sample as a basis for acceptance/rejection criteria. In this point inspection system penalty points are assigned base on the standard fault. For every type of fault colored stickers are put, to identify serious defects in the subsequent process.
Fault Size 0 to 3 inches 3 to 6 inches 6 to 9 inches 9 & above Holes <= 1 inch > 1 inch
Point Assigned 1 2 3 4
2 4
The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that would cause a final garment to be considered a second.) MAJOR DEFECTS: Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn variation, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn. Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, or shading.
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The fabric is graded as per points per 100 square yards. It is calculated by the formula : Points/100 sq. yd = The fabic grades are : o A grade o B garde o C grade <= 27 points / 100 sq. yd 28- 39 points / 100 sq. yd > 40 points / 100 sq. yd Total Points scored in the bulk X 100 X 36 Width of the roll(inch) X total yds inspected
All the C grade fabrics are pasted with red labels and they are rejected.
DESIGN SEASON ART NO. TAKA NO. DEFECT WEAVING STAINS STREAKS MENDAB NON MEN
TOTAL SHADE:
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FLOW PROCESS IN FABRIC STORE This store is common for all the four units of mccoy. Fabric is stored, relaxed, inspectrd and issued to the cutting . Fabric is obtained in two forms: Roll form is obtained for fabric which is imported from other countries. Bale form is obtained for fabric which is obtained from Indian industries. Each bale contains a fixed number of takkas and each takka is of fixed length of fabric usually 24-26 meter.
store in-charge
maintains a Fabric Package File. This package file contains several charts. They are: Shade Band Approval: This chart is received from the merchandiser. This chart contains various details regarding the shades of the fabric. Style no, Buyer, Count and Construction, PO no, LR no, Received rolls, Color and code, Supplier Shade. This chart contains a swatch of the different shades of the fabric and the code given to them by the buyer and the store in-charge himself. Swatch Card: This card contains the details Date, Design no, Style no, Count and construction and buyer name. This card also contains the before and after wash swatches and shade bands of the fabric.
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Sample Card: Swatch and sample cards being the same, contains the defect details that are present in the fabric. The common defects observed were: o Slub o Foreign yarn o Dye Patch o Stain
Face Card Approval: This card contains a swatch of the fabric showing the face side of the fabric. Certain suppliers mark the face side of the fabric, however for the rest for the fabric where the face side determination is not easy; the merchandiser decides the face side of the fabric and marks it. This card is also received from the merchandiser. Fusing Details: The sub store also stores the fusing materials. They also maintain the fusing details. Shrinkage report: The package file also contains the shrinkage report. This is received from the merchandiser. Fabric Quality Inspection Summary: This sheet is received from the merchandiser and is maintained in the package file. After the fabric is ordered, the store in-charge maintains a Daily Fabric Status Report. This report contains the details of the fabric ordered. That is, the quantity of the fabric received and the quantity of the fabric that is yet to be received (Balance). When the fabric is received it is kept after weighing it. This fabric is then unrolled (in case of roles) or the Takkas removed (in case of bales). This is done on the 2 tables that are in the center of the store. The rolled fabric is however relaxed. The fabric is then relaxed for exact 24 hrs. This is done in the racks. A Sticker is attached to the tied bundles. This sticker contains the details of the fabric (style no, color, buyer name etc). After exact 24 hrs, the fabric is ready for issuing.
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Before the fabric is issued, the store receives the Material Requisition Slip (RMR) from the cutting section head. This slip is half filled by the cutting section head. The details filled by the cutting head are Style No, Materials and Quantity required. The store in-charge according to the quantity required and the availability of fabric in the store, issues the fabric to the cutting section. Thus the store in-charge fills in the rest of the form, the details Quantity issued and Dept. The end bits (left over bits of the fabric in the cutting room) were also being stored in the store. The shrinkage bits were also being stored in the store .
TRIMS AND PACKING MATERIAL First of all, the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy contains various details such as the PCD Date, Sample Date, PCD Sample, Prototype Sample, Order chart, RMR. The trims main store then orders to the vendors for the required trims , accessories and packing materials. The trims and packing materials then received are checked for defects and stored. Trims and packing materials are issued to the factory trim store as and when required, in the required quantity. It maintains both trims inward record and trims outward record, where the inward record contains the details of trims received from the vendors and the outwars record contains the details of trims issued to the factory trim stores. It also maintains record of defected trims and sents them back to the vendors as rejected goods. The trims store also receives purchase invoice from the vendors and sends it to the merchandiser and finance department for payment.
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The trim store maintains a trim chart. In this chart are the details o Fabric swatch o Sewing thread o Fabric color o Fabric code o Sample of all the labels o Buttons In case there different shades in the buttons that are received, all the different shades of the buttons are stuck too in the chart. This chart goes to the merchandiser for the approval. The merchandiser signs the chart and sends back. The shades of the buttons (if present) are then approved form the buyer and signed. o It should be not known that the buttons are of different shades (in case they are accepted) and hence, they are stuck to the chart at the backside. Any delay in reception merchandiser. There are 2 parts to the trims store. o Stitching Part o Packing Part of trims of packing material is reported to the
STITCHING PART The stitching part stores labels, buttons, sewing thread, lining materials, fusing materials, etc. Labels come in a roll of 1000 and are checked and segregated to rolls of 50 labels each. Buttons are received in gross, where 1 gross contains 144 buttons. They are packed to packets as required, generally 12 gross/ packet. Buttons are checked for colour and strength and shape, while snap buttons are checked for their working and fastening strength.
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PACKING PART The packing part consists of all packing materials like cartons of different sizes, master cartons, polybags, collar stands, back support, packing board, hang tag, etc. The cartons come in different sizes which are decided by the buyer. o EDC 60 X 60 X 40 60 X 40 X 20 60 X 40 X 30 o
S. Oliver
- 53X 30 X 38 43 X 28 X 30 60 X 30 X 38 40 X 30 X 40 40 X 34 X 40 50 X 40 X 40
Gintoni
- 63 x 40 x 30 40 x 30 x 40
Closing of the cartons is done by pin attachment and gum tape packing. Gum tape packing is of three types : o Gum tape packing 3 white or brown 2 white or brown 1 cello tape
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The rejected in then sent back to the main store. If the trims are accepted they are issued at the production line. There are many types of labels that are used in the production: o Main Label has the buyers name o Content Label contains the content of the fabric o Size Label size of the garment is specified o Tab Label has the logo of the buyer.
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o ID/Wash care Label has the wash care instructions for the garment The factory trim store also maintains the trim chart. In this chart are the details o Fabric swatch o Sewing thread o Fabric color o Fabric code o Sample of all the labels o Buttons After this inspection, a meeting is held between the trim store head,production manager, Production coordinator and the cutting department head. In this meeting it is decide as to which color and style has to be cut first for production. This is decided on the trims that are received. As to for which style and color the trims are available for production. After the meeting is over, the production starts. The cutting section then sends a Slip. This slip contains the details Cut no, Size, Sr no, Lot no, Qty, Shrinkage, Shade. The store then receives the Requisition Slip which contains the details material, Qty indent (required), qty issued and the dept. The trims and accessories are then issued to the required dept as per the required qty. The trim store head also maintains a Stock Ledger. o As soon as the materials are issued, the left side of the ledger is filled up. Details Date, Received from, DC No, PO No, IC No, Total receipts o As soon as the materials are issued to the lines, the right side of the ledger is filled up. Details Date, Issued to (line no), Regd Sr No, No of Pcs supplied, Balance left.
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There is no fixed method of Issuing System followed here. The trims as and when received are kept together (mixed up). While issuing any of the stored are issued. After every 2-3 days the stocks are checked. The trims store also maintains Bin Card. These bin cards were found hanging by the racks that store the trims. Every section in the rack had an individual bin card con tainig all the details. The bin card contains the details of the trims that are being stored in the rack, how much is issued and the balance. Details Date, Received Qty, Date, Line no., issued qty, Balance.
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CUTTING DEPARTMENT
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MANUAL SPREADING AND CUTTING First the lay lot planning is done for the given order which is to be cut. It includes what sizes, lay length and how many ply a lay will contain. The CAD marker, garment patterns and fabric consumption details for spreading is received from the sampling department. The marker is used only as a reference for spreading and the actual spreading may differ slightly. The actual fabric consumption varies by approx 3% from the projected consumption. According to the lay length given in the lay slip a brown sheet is spread, then the lay is spread and in the lay order report it is entered that from one takka, how many lays have been spread and how much is balance. After spreading 1 or 2 ply of a lay, QC checks for the length, width, face side, and shade variation of the fabric. When QC comes through any defect a sticker is pasted there and a brown sheet is placed so that that part can be recognised easily for recutting, Then the patterns are spread and marked over the lay using tailor chalk and with straight knife patterns are cut.
BLOCK CUTTING Block cutting is done for checked fabrics. It is done so as to match the checks. The marker is made on the lay in such a manner that blocks can be cut for each pattern. The patterns are not cut directly,only the blocks are cut. The blocks are then stretched diagonally to remove skewnees. These blocks are then spread matching the checkes. Clips are used so that the plies do not move while cutting, and then the patterns are cut with straight knife or band knife. Straight knife is used for cutting big patterns and band knife is used for cutting smaller patterns.
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END-BITS CUTTING End bits are collected from spreaders and it is issued to the cutting department. Usable and unusable bits are segregated and the end bit register is updated. Then the general re-cutting percentage is recorded. The end bits left is returned after the order is completed. Fabric sub store Incharge is informed about this.
NUMBERING After the panels are cut, according to the size and shade bundles of parts of the garment are made which contain 10 pieces of each parts and each part of a garment are given the same ticket number. After numbering the parts of the garment in the bundle are counted and recorded in the cutting check list. Bundle label
Bundle No. : Sl. No. Size Cut No. Qty Des Opn. No. : : : : : : S M L XL
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FUSING After numbering the parts which has to be fused is send to the fusing incharge where they are fused. Before fusing the fusing temperature, time, and pressure is evaluated by using viline fusing tape. Here this test is done two times in a day, at morning and afternoon. After fusing the parts are send for bundling. And then stored in parts bank.
RE-CUTTING PROCEDURE Receives the duplicate patterns with parts check list. Get internal memo with defective panels from feeding helper. Collect cut number from numbering supervisor. Collect particular endbits. Endbits roll is matched with defective panels. Patters are identified for parts, size and shrinkage. Re-cutting is done as per identified pattern. Sticker is removed from the original panel and affix on re-cut panels. Re-cut panels are handover to the feeding helper. Left over endbits is return to the fabric sub-store. Daily recut report is maintained.
CALCULATION OF RE-CUTTING FABRIC REQUIREMENT First per garment marker requirement is taken. 3% extra is taken for wastage. After that sum total of actual marker requirement and 3% extra is multiplied by the number of garment. Then the total number of panels to be cut is counted. E.g if an garment is having 5 panels: 2front, 1back, 2 sleeves. And the quantity to be re cut is 30: like 10 back, 5 front, 15 sleeves. Its total is taken i.e 30 and it is divided by 5
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as one garment is having 5 panels. Its output is 6 which is considered as number of garment. Then this number of garment is multiplied by the marker requirement by one garment. And thus the calculated fabric is issued from the store for re-cutting.
SPREADING QUALITY CONTROL BEING FOLLOWED To receive the fabric widthwise and shade wise. To receive fabric inspection report along with fabric from stores. To check cutting pattern with approved AQ pattern. To verify the number of panels in a marker.
Marker placement: Check that the marker is made on the spread such that no pattern comes on the selvedge. verify that all cut pieces will be complete. Shading: Checks for shading unless all parts are ply marked.It is essential to have a system to control shading. Markers: Ensure that no markers are creased , damaged or have overlapped parts. Narrow goods: After the completion of spread, check that all plies extend beyond the marker line. Tension: Check tension during spreading, this is very important during spreading. Count: Check the count after completion of spreading, and before cutting ,all plies at both ends. Leaning: Check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to the top.visually inspect the alignment of the edge with table top.
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CUTTING QUALITY CONTROL Various points that has to be taken into consideration during cutting are Miscut Matching plies. Ragged cutting. Notches. Pattern check
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= = = = = = = =
326.5 inches 199 inches 316.38 inches 259.75 inches 270 inches 258 inches 1629.63 inches 9.05 inches / min. 28.11 inches / min.
32.2 %
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MCCOY- 1 Style no. - 14.008.11.5223 Fabric type - 100% cotton, yarn died check fabric Marker type online marker Fabric width 53 Marker mode face one way Markey way 2 way marker Marker length 560 cm No. of fabric layers 200 No. of cutting masters - 1 Linear length cut in 1st 60 min. Linear length cut in 2nd 60 min. Linear length cut in 3rd 60 min. Linear length cut in 4th 60 min. Linear length cut in 5th 60 min. Linear length cut in 6th 60 min. Total linear length in 6 hours Average rate of cutting
= = = = = = = =
186.25 inches 262.25 inches 187.25 inches 97.25 inches 137 inches 188.5 inches 1058.5 inches 2.94 inches / min. 14.23 inches / min.
20.66 %
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Reasons for low cutting rate : The cutting efficiency is very low because of irregular cutting and non continuous cutting. The cutting master were not able to do continuous cutting as they had to leave their cutting work in between and go for some other task assigned. The cutting masters also had no work pressure to do efficient cutting. Cutting is also slow because it is done usually 2 days prior to style loading in the sewing line. The low output of sewing lines also results in lower cutting rate.
Less cutting rate for checked fabric : From the average cutting rate we can can observe that the cutting rate is very slow for the check fabric ( solid fabric - 9.05 inches / min ; checked fabric - 2.94 inches / min. ) The reason for this slow cutting rate is that the checked fabrics cant be cut directly. First block cutting is done for the patterns. The blocks are then stretched diagonally to remove skewness. The blocks are then again spread, giving utmost attention in matching the checks. The new lay of the block is then fixed by using clamps so that the layers do not move. Now the cutting starts carefully so that the matching does not get distorted.
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SEWING DEPARTMENT
PROCESS FLOW
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PRODUCTION MANAGER
The job of production manager is to discuss Operation bulletin, machine layout and manpower with production in charge and coordinate with technician regarding machines, jigs and attachments before batch setting. The production manager also caries out all the jobs that are done by Industrial engineering department, as there is no such separate department in Mccoy clothing.
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DONE BY PRODUCTION MANAGER : There is no distinct IE department in Mccoy, the functions of IE department are done by the factory manager with the help of supervisors. The factory manager generates operation breakdown, operation bulletin, skill matrix, carries out time and motion study if required, line layout, line balancing etc. It is also the duty of production manager to monitor production status every hour and at the end of the day.
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TRAINING OF OPERATORS
WORK MEASUREMENT
TIME STUDY
METHOD STUDY
OPD ANALYST
LINE BALANCING
SKILL MATRIX
STYLE BULLETIN
LINE LAYOUT
OPERATOR PERFORMANCE
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The Production manager is assigned the following jobs Method Implementation in the line. To maintain the methods of the operation performed in the line. Follow-up on low output operators. Finding out reason for low efficiency and solving the problem to increase performance and productivity. Off-standard & On-standard work details calculation. Providing and maintaining gum sheet to each operator. Maintaining Target cards for each operation. Issuing hourly production target to each operator. Finding out hourly production of each operator. Size-wise loading and output calculation. Generating Daily production report and style-wise efficiency report. Maintaining incentive report. To conduct Time study of each operator when required. Capacity report generation. Create and update skill matrix of each operator & submit the same to personnel department. Assist in Factory planning. Finalising line layout and making changes wherever required. Finalising guides and accessories to be attached to sewing machines.
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PRODUCTION INCHARGE
The production incharge is responsible for the monthly record keeping, receipt of production file from the head merchandiser, and drafting of monthly bank statement and reconciliation slip. The production incharge also performs the following production monitoring tasks :
GUM SHEET
Gum sheets are maintained for each operator. Each operator is given a gum sheet in which he/she can fill in the number of bundles and pieces that he/she completed during that particular hour. This helps in bundle tracking, WIP and efficiency estimation of the particular operator. Gum sheets are issued to the line as soon as the line is loaded and it has to be signed by the Supervisor after each hour.
TARGET CARD
Target card is prepared taking into consideration the SAM and the operation concerned. It consists of target efficiency and target production that the operator must achieve in order to get incentive. A minimum of 56% efficiency for the operator and 45% efficiency for the line is required to get incentive. It is then affixed on each machine which thus acts as a motivating factor for the operator to earn incentive by achieving better efficiency.
Hourly production report is maintained by the production incharge. Each operators opening and closing WIP is maintained after every hours. Thus, production is constantly monitored for every hour. WIP is also monitored and thus operators lagging behind in certain operations and thus accumulating WIP can be found out and preventive measures be taken.
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INCENTIVE REPORT
Incentive report is made for each operator depending upon the line and operator efficiency. The line efficiency should be above 45% and each operators individual efficiency should be above 56% to get incentive. Operators efficiency is found out by gum sheets and production reports and thus appropriate incentive report is made by the production incharge.
The production incharge is also supposed to maintain a daily production report for the line. This report keeps track of pieces loaded ,color and SAM, Production and total SAM earned that day. This is maintained everyday and thus gives a brief overview of how the factory performed on any particular day. The daily production report is also mailed to the directors, merchandiser, production manager and the buyer so that everyone is aware of current production status of the order.
Style wise production report is also maintained by the production incharge. It keeps a track of the number of pieces loaded, number of pieces produced, WIP, SAM earned, style and factory efficiency. This is reviewed by production manager who can thus get a crisp view of which line is lagging in production and efficiency.
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SKILL MATRIX
In Mccoy three grades are given to operators i.e A,B,C.the skill matrix is developed by the production manager with the help of production incharge and supervisors. They are assigning following three grades on the basic of type of operations they do. For both top and bottom garment the operators are given these three grades . FOR TOPS Grade A- Operations Att n/b collar with pattern Grade B- Operations Attach yoke & edge stitch yoke (manual & folder) Set sleeve placket & stitch arrow Set sleeve placket & stitch arrow Match & run collar Close collar Close cuff (folder) Attach main lable to yoke Attach main lable to yoke Hem front placket Attach fashion placket Run stitch collar, cuff & flaps Attach front placket (kansai / DNLS) Hem bottom (Manual) Join shoulder (Manual &folder) Top stitch sides (FOA) Top stitch sides (DNLS) Hem side slit Hem sleeve Overlock small parts Prepare main label & W/C label Attach pocket Attach side seam Overlock side seam & arm hole Sew darts (manual) Sew pleats T/S collar, shoulder Stay stitch or gathering Hem cuff or pocket Close flap at bottom Locking operations Run stitch collar (profile) Run stitch neck band Grade C- Operators Run stitch neck band
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NOTE: 1. Grade A+ a. Almost all operations of A category & performance b. 5 to 6 operations of B category. 1. Grade A a. Minimum of 6 to 8 operations of A category. c. 5 to 6 operations of B category
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69
S.No
Date
DC.NO
Style Name
PO.NO
Qty
RTTL
70
PROD QTY
SHIPPED % AGAINST PROD
S/NO
BUYER
STYLE
O/QTY
CUT QTY
PREV month
CURRENT
NO OF DAY
O P
P.RATE
C M VALUE
F.O.B
shipped
F.O.B VALUE
TOTAL
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EMBROIDERY DETAIL FOR THE MONTH OF MARCH 2010 S/NO DATE BUYER ARTICLE NO STITICHS QTY RATE AMOUNT RTTL
72
DATE
TTL-HR
M/C-1
EMBROIDERY DETAIL FOR THE MONTH OF MARCH 2010 TTL-HR M/C-2 TTL-HR M/C-3 TTL-HR
M/C-4
TOTAL
PRE
STR
73
S/NO
DATE
BUYER
ARTICLE
PRINTING COL
DESC
DES
QTY
RATE
AMOUNT
RTTL
74
proj
26856 10.855
proj
20179 8.6493785
proj
14022 7.1286
DATE
TODAY
RTTL
TODAY
RTTL
OPR
P/MAC
TODAY
RTTL
OPR
P/MAC
TODAY
RTTL
OPR
P/MAC
75
ACTUAL CON.:
DSN NO. ORD W.O.
RECD
FABRIC
UTILISED RTND CONSMD CUT
GARMENTS
PRON U/F SHIPD PKD
STOCK
PASS REJCN
SHIPMEN
SAMPLE
SHIP%
REJ%
OT
REMARK:
PREPARED BY:
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HEAD SUPERVISOR The head supervisor is responsible for the entire sewing floor and the production process. The job of floor in charge is to collect sealer sample from production manager and make reference based sealer sample to display in each batch and to coordinate during batch setting and ensure peak production.
SUPERVISOR The supervisor job is to assist the head supervisor to ensure that the production is at its peak and the quality of workmanship is also maintained.
OPERATOR The operators job is to carry out the operation with the required level of performance and quality. They also keep recording their hourly production, in their hourly production report card.
HELPER Helpers help the opertors in sorting, bundling and material flow. They provide the operators with required raw material as and when required.
TRIMS & ACCESSORIES INCHARGE The trims and accessories incharge is responsible for ordering trims and accessories from the store as per the requirement of the garment style and order size and then to issue it to the various departments in the unit as per requirement.it also maintains record of trims issued to each department and the balance remaining in the store.
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QUALITY INCHARGE
The quality incharge of the sewing department is responsible for in-line quality and inspection and or the final inspection at the end of an assembly line. Quality incharge is assisted by inline checkers. MCCOY CLOTHING
LINE CHECKING REPORT BUYER : ART/STYLE NO; COL NO. 1ST HOUR DEFECTIVE TYPE NO. OF DEF PCS CHECKED NO. OF DEF PCS CHECKED NO. OF DEF PCS CHECKED NO. OF DEF PCS CHECKED NO. OF DEF PCS CHECKED 2ND HOUR DATE: CHECKED BY : OPERATION NAME : 3RD HOUR 4TH HOUR 5TH HOUR
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MCCOY CLOTHING LINE CHECKING REPORT PO NO. ART NO. DES NO. CHECKED BY: SL NO . DEFECT TYPE 1 HOUR CHECKE DEFEC D T
ST
DATE:
ND
RD
TH
TH
TH
TH
TH
MEASUREMENT SL MEASUREMEN NO T .
SIZE
SIZE
REMARKS: ROMING QA
QA I/C
MANAGER
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MAINTENANCE INCHARGE The maintenance in-charge maintains and repairs machines during breakdown. It is his duty to do overhauling of all the machines at regular intervals as part of preventive maintenance. He also keeps record of machines repaired, parts changed or repaired, parts that are available in stock, parts that need to be replenished in the stock, etc.
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SEWING ANALYSIS
MCCOY- 1 From the annexure- operation bulletin of sewing department of Mccoy 1 we have following data : Style No. Garment description = 2460 = Mens casual shirt with hood; yard died check fabric; Knitted fabric hood; knitted fabric also used on cuff , plackets and collar. = S.Oliver = 35.72 min = 110 = 1478 garments/ day = 700 garments/ day = 47.36%
Buyer SAM of the garment No. of operators Estimated production Average production Efficiency of the line
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MCCOY- 3 From the annexure- operation bulletin of sewing department of Mccoy 1 we have following data :
= 4961 = ladies blouse of solid died fabric. Circular patch on sleeve and printed tape on collar. = S.Oliver = 21.76 min = 75 = 1654 garments/ day = 800 garments/ day = 48.37%
Buyer SAM of the garment No. of operators Estimated production Average production Efficiency of the line
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Reasons for low productivity : Efficiency of both the units is very low because of following reasons highly unorganized material flow. Improperly line balancing. Irregular feeding of raw materials. Unwanted time delays by the operators. Improper method of carrying out the operations. Uneffecient line layout. Lack of motivation by the managers to the operators ( operators unwillingly carrying out their job ). Unavailability of fabric, trims and accessories on time. Mccoy 1 was approximately 1% less efficient than Mccoy 3, even after having hanger system because its material flow was very uneven as compared to Mccoy-3. In Mccoy 3 the operators themselves moved sometimes from their place to get the required raw material.
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FINISHING DEPARTMENT
The finishing department deals with trimming of extra thread, garment cecking, mending, stain removal, ironing, folding, packing and then finally dispatching. Only garments fulfilling the required quality level are sent for packing, while rejected garments are sent for either of the following : Spot Washing Alteration/ Rework.
MIDDLE CHECKING: Mainly done on the wrong side of garment Checking for- Uncut thread, open seams, kachcha, removal of cellophane paper Sequence Front Collar and collar band and labels Sleeve Front placket Cuff Hem Back embroidery Armhole
ALTERATIONS/REWORK: There are 4-5 SNLS machines kept for rework in case of defects such as open seams, skipped stitches etc. THREAD SUCKING: 1 thread sucking machines in each unit.
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FINAL CHECKING: Mainly done on the right side of garment Checking for (in this sequence) Front placket Buttons Collar and collar band(inner) Hem Wash-care labels Side seam Sleeve Placket buttons Armhole Cuff Back Buttoning if not done earlier
FINAL CHECKING : In this process the garments are checked against the relevant
specifications(print or embroidery, design specifications, label specs etc.) and reports mentioned in the style file for that particular order. The overall look of the garment is focused in the auditing process. Thus factors or critical points affecting the aesthetic appearance of the garments are given major importance such as Shade variations Stitching defects and alterations Stains Washing damages Dyeing damages
A style file includes reports such as Work order sheet (PO details)
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Bill of materials Process costing sheet (emb/print/washing) Approved mini marker Fabric test report (SGS) Fabric test report- internal- Qc passed Interlining test report PP comments Approved sample Measurement sheet (approved by pattern master and merchandiser) Style spec/tech sheet (approved by merchandiser) Approved trim card- Sewing/ Packing Packing instructions Packing slip- destination wise Approved process standard (emb/print/washing)
MEASUREMENT CHECK: At this stage the garment pcs are checked for their measurements. The critical check points include Chest Waist Hem
IRONING: Temperature maintained- Normal: 400C o Heavy hot iron: 600C Automatic pressure change Voltage:220V, Motor:400W STAIN REMOVING/ SPOT WASHING: Done using acetone, white petrol
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Chemical used depends on type of stain. 1 stain removing operator in each unit. Silver star stain removing guns used. POLYBAG PACKING: First Price tags, Vintage tags and size tags are put. The folded garments are then put into polybags and seals are put as per the buyers demands Size stickers are put on the outer side of the polybags Application of other kind of stickers is done as recommended by the buyer E.g. Sticker mentioning MADE IN INDIA CARTON PACKING: Carton packing is done shade wise or ratio pack as specified by the buyer. Carton size and quality also goes along the buyers desires There is storage space for packed cartons just next to the carton packing tables The buyer address and order detail stickers are applied on the cartons.
SEGMENT/LABEL
CARTON NO.
SEASON FORM GROUP ARTICLE NUMBER
S.OLIVER
SEGEMNT
42
12
QUANTITY
4468
01NO
ASSORTMENT
38
GROSS WEIGHT
FREE SHADE:
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PACKING GUIDELINE FOR FINAL AUDIT Check the carton dimension, marker sticker. Check the price sticker,hangtag,prepack. Check the packing. Check the folding size. Check the ratio and shade wise packing. Check the collar spread shape. Check the fabric defect and poor pressing. Check the shade wise packing. Check the button placement and insecured button. Check the shape of garment. Check the joint stitch, broken stitch, open stitch, uncut stitch. Check the outlook of the garment. Check the measurement.
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C/NO
PREP
LOT
COLOR
XS
XL
XXL
3XL
MEASUREMENT
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WASHING
The washing and printing unit of Mccoy is situated in Vadapai. This unit provides Denim wash, Sand wash, Enzyme wash and Bleaching. The washing section is on the ground floor. It has 4 drier, 3 washing machine, 2 spinner and 3 sample washing machine used only for washing samples. The washing machines are of RAMSONS(NGAI). The washes that can be done in this unit are Denim Stone Enzyme Bleach Tinting Acid Wash or Ball wash
DENIM WASH Fashion is today incomplete without denim. Denim comes in all forms, looks and washes to match with every dress . It would be difficult to believe that the same denim was originally employed in clothing for the pants and overalls worn by miners on the west coast(US). A number of technological factors have contributed to making denim the fashion icon that it is today including vast improvements in spinning, weaving, finishing etc. One of the most important part of creation of the beautiful denim jeans is the washing . Washing plays such an important part in the denim chain because of the umpteen effects that the consumers are looking for on their jeans . BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES Below is the brief introduction to common steps done & followed in denim garments washing in Laundries across the world. Different kind & make of machines being used across the globe to hit similar results. Every small step in denim washing makes a big difference because indigo dye has very poor wet & dry rubbing fastness. All parameters are critical to maintain for repetitive results. Eg Many laundries across the Globe ignore the importance of pH M:L:R & R P M of machine.
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SOME IMPORTANT STEPS IN THE PROCESS OF DENIM WASHING 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Pre treatment ( Desizing, Rinsing, Scouring etc) Enzyme or Stone wash Clean up to adjust the desire effect Bleaching Tinting / Dyeing Softening & Much more..
1. PRE TREATEMENT
This is very first & basic step but most important step of washing. Here the fate of denim garment is decided that its going to appear good or bad. Good Pre treatments avoid streaking, stiffness & color loss. This process removes impurities, starch & stains during handling of fabric. This step is also called desizing (Removal of Size applied dur ing denim fabric making in weft yarn ). All the woven fabric contains size on them due to reasons to strengthen the yarn for weaving. It is done for 20 min at the temperature of 60 degrees. There are many types of sizes available in the market but they can be divided in two major groups.Water Soluble (CMC or PVA based sizes ) and 1. Dissolvable sizes in water ( Starch based ). Starch based sizes are most commonly used due to cheap prices & readily availability. METHODS OF REMOVING SIZES FROM DENIM JEANS Washing with High Alkaline agents ( i.e. Soda ash ) Washing with High Acidic agents (i.e. Acetic acid ) Washing with Oxidative chemicals ( i.e. Hydrogen Peroxide ) Enzymatic desizing with Alfa amylase .. This is eco friendly & convenient .
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There are four kind of Enzymes available in market for Denim Laundry business..
Amylase . Desizing Cellulase . For Salt & pepper effect , contrast Laccase. bio bleaching Catalase Peroxide killer
Enzyme is kind of protein that is obtained from fermentations method from naturally existing bacteria & fungi. The structure of Enzyme is a biological polymer and it can be found in every cell. Generally called as Cellulase & it works on cotton( Cellulosic fiber ) only. Enzyme are living organisms which will attack a specific molecular group. There are mainly three kind of Cellulase being used for Denim washing , Neutral, Acid and Bio polishing Enzyme. Enzyme are very sensitive with parameters in washing cycle i.e, pH , Temperature & time. If any of these parameters are not up to the mark, result will not be accurate. The reaction of enzyme can be easily controlled, its biodegradable products, so they eco friendly. Bio Polishing Cellulase are being used to have protruded fiber removal from denim & oven fabric. This is also widely known as Anti pilling enzyme. Any Cellulase used in process must be cleaned/killed after the process completion by simply disturbing the parameters ie. By raising high temp. or raising pH to alkaline where no Cellulase withstand. Cellulase are available in 3 categories - Neutral - Acidic & - Hybrid enzymes. Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai 92
Neutral enzyme gives better salt & pepper effect with very less back staining & its generally come sin powder form & also retains better strength of fabric than acidic Cellulase. Where as acidic cellulase give faster results but with too heavy back staining & cuts down the indigo color, also affects the strength of fabrics. Now a days laundry people needs faster results in less time & money hence chemical suppliers combined Neutral & acid cellulase in such way that it works faster & with better results than acid cellulase with cost effectiveness & known as Hybrid enzyme. Laccase is bio bleaching agent & alternative for conventional bleaching agents. This impart greyer cast to blue denim & enhances salt & pepper effect. But due to high cost & low self life, laundries do not prefer it. 3. CLEAN UP After finishing Enzyme wash it is must to add clean up process for better results & garments appearance & that can be done in various ways & methods. As clean up is a must process to be carried out after every chemicals steps done for any garments which allows next process to happen smoothly. All processes mentioned below kill/ deactivate the active enzymes process which is necessary in order to protect/retain garment strength
Hydrogen peroxide in alkaline pH clean up enhances the brightness & rich blue tone of indigo. By using non ionic detergents in medium to high temperature By doing two good hot water rinse etc.
4.BLEACHING
This in one an important step in washing denim & can be done by various bleaching agents ..
Calcium hypo chlorite Sodium hypo chlorite Hydrogen peroxide Potassium permanganate Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai 93
First two chemicals are commonly being used for every medium to vintage denim but when it comes to super vintage & light shade its advisable to use potassium permanganate bleach to cut the color faster till half way & then neutralize it & go with Liquid ( Hypo ) bleach to adjust the desired shade. This process helps to get Greyer cast & also protects the lycra/spandex, retain elasticity. Hydrogen Peroxide is rarely used as bleaching agent when very less color loss required or if fabric is sulphur top. As it takes longer time to give desired effect. Potassium Permanganate is also being used on 100% sulphur black denim fabric for bleaching/reducing agent to get unique effects. As its not production friendly till laundry have very expertise team to handle this program, otherwise it will result in many shades & cast. Proper Neutralizations of bleaching process is very essential in order to get rid of fabric strength, bad smell from garment, yellowing & skin irritation etc 4. TINTING & DYEING Tinting is a process where very less amount of tint is involved & mainly direct dye is being used to do this process. This is being done to change hue/cast/tone of indigo. As soon as quantity of tint color increases & it cover up indigo, reaches the level of dyeing. Tinting being used to give garments a used / vintage & muddy look. This process takes from 5 minutes to 15 minutes time for better results followed by dye fixing & cleans up of superficial dye. Dyeing is being done on very light shade of Indigo, Ecru/ grey denim & Ready for dyeing denim. There are various Types Of Dye . The comparison of these dyes is given in the chart here below: 1-Direct Dyes 2-Reactive Dyes 3-Pigment Dyes 4-Sulphur Dyes Direct Dyes Reactive Dyes Economical Costly Wide range Wide range of shades of shades Pigment Dyes Styling ( limited to dull Sulphur Dyes Shades are dull 94
shades) Short Cycles Long Cycle Short to long Cycle Short to long Cycle, depends upon shade Sulphur Odour & harsh hand feel
Ease of application
Water Machine Consumption contamination, High but hard to obtain consistency, harsh hand feel
Smooth Appearance
5.SOFTENING PROCESS Softening process of Denim is very critical. As denim is very heavy in compare with other fabrics hence its needs softening. During this process there is a big problem -the discoloration of denim i.e change in shade or loss of whiteness, giving a yellow tint is commonly known as yellowing. By using normal softener will lead to ozone problem. Indigo dyed fabric are even more prone to yellowing. As its a widespread problem & there in no single reason for its cause . Instead a number of condition can singly or in combination lead to the problem. Yellowing in not specific to certain fibers, finishes or washing processes. It is not specific to chemicals or chemical treatment but certainly some of the factors among these can lead to the yellowing. As cotton & all organic polymers develop yellowing in time. Light , acids, impurities, detergents & chemical contribute to yellowing problems. Temperature of drying & curing can impart yellowing due to scorching of the cotton. Therefore good control must be used to minimize this type of damage. Hence its advisable to use Antiozonate softener which prolong ozone reaction of Indigo & keep garment in good condition. MINIMISATION OF YELLOWING RISK: Its Impossible to eliminate yellowing but it is possible to prolong & reduce the conditions which causes classical yellowing: Ensure bleaching neutralization & rinsing is proper Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai 95
Minimize back staining Avoid use of chemicals which cause yellowing Avoid leaving garment in open air for longer time Control drying & curing temperatures Using right Antiozonate softener with right pH Desizing Desizing is done for the removal of Wetting agent Anti back staining Lupe To resist damage or lining in Denim Desizer (powder or liquid)
RECIPE FOR DENIM WASH For 100 pieces, Desizing Water Wetting agent Anti back staining Lupe Desize powder Rinse 20 min pH = 7 900L 450 g 900g 900 g 450g
ENZYME WASH Enzyme washing is a laundering process which uses enzymes to clean clothing or to finish fabric, especially in the case of jeans and other garments with a worn-in look. various enzymatic cleaners are available from stores which specialize in laundry supplies, and can also be special ordered. for regular cleaning, enzymes carry numerous economic and environmental benefits. on an industrial scale, enzyme washing has replaced laborious laundering techniques such as stonewashing, saving money and environmental impact for companies. Enzymes are proteins produced by living organisms. All organisms produce a wide range of enzymes to accomplish necessary biological tasks. Some enzymes can also be replicated in the lab, or engineered to perform in a particular way. One of the reasons that enzyme washing is so ecologically friendly is the natural origins of enzymes, which biodegrade, rather than lingering in the water supply. Enzyme washing products are also much more potent than other laundry products, requiring people to use far less, in terms of volume. Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai 96
Different types of enzymes are suitable for different stains. In all cases, the enzyme washing process breaks the stain down into smaller molecules which can be removed with water or conventional soap. Amylases will remove starch based laundry stains, while proteases break down protein chains, making them suitable for protein stains. Lipases work very well on grease and oil, and cellulases are excellent general cleaners. Enzyme washing also yields a softer, more supple garment. For delicate garments, enzyme washing can be an excellent way to get clothing fresh and clean. Enzymes also work at very low temperatures, making them suitable for cold wash only things ranging from silk to wet suits. Many natural detergent products mix enzymes into their formulas, to ensure that they are effective at all temperatures and on all stains. Commercial clothing manufacturers also use enzyme washing to make their clothing appear aged and worn, especially in the case of jeans. Cellulases are usually used, since they will loosen the indigo dye in the denim, making the jeans look broken in and used. The enzymes will not compromise the strength of the fabric, but they will make the jeans softer, more supple, and more neutral in odor. Unlike stonewashing, the process used to make jeans appear beaten up and worn before enzyme washing, enzyme washing will not leave residue in drains and on clothing. These enzymes washed garments may have labels indicating that they were subjected to the enzyme washing process before shipment and sale. Enzyme wash is generally done for flat effect. It is done for 40 60 min at a temperature of 55 degrees. Enzymes used: - Acid enzyme pH 4.5 - Neutral enzyme 6 800 g of enzyme is taken in 800 L or water i.e. 1 GPL.
RECIPE FOR ENZYME WASH - Enzyme - Anti back Staining - Lupe - Enzymes - Rinse - pH = 6 - 900g - 900g - 1Kg
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BLEACHING Bleaching is removing colored components from a fabric of the garment. Common bleaches are hydrogen peroxide, sodium hypochloride, and sodium chlorite. It is the brightening and delignification of pulp by the addition of oxidizing chemicals such as chlorine or reducing chemicals such as sodium hypochloride. Bleaching agent A chemical, such as an aromatic acyl peroxide or monoperoxiphthalic acid, used to bleach flour, fats, oils and other edibles. An oxidizing or reducing chemical such as sodium hypochlorite, sulfur dioxide, sodium acid sulfite, or hydrogen peroxide. The recipe for bleaching is - 900 L water - Bleach 10L to 50L (depends upon the lighter wash the buyer wants) RINSE Rinsing is the final process. It is just a process to denaturalize garments. It is done by Sodium metaflate Sulphate or Sodium peroxide.
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PROCESS FLOW:
The washing unit head receives the recipe and the desired finish (wash) in the garment from the merchandiser, who gets this specification from the buyer. According to the wash and the recipe the washing section prepares 3-5 samples and sends to the buyer. The buyer approves one of the samples. This is done in Industrial Washing Machine meant only for sampling. The washing section also alter the recipe accordingly and use. After the buyer approves the sample, a Lot is given that wash (bulk washing). 2 samples out of the bulk lot are sent to the buyer again for approval. If the buyer finds the earlier sample similar to the 2 new samples, it is passed. Once it is passed, the bulk washing starts for the entire style production (same recipe as made by the washing section is used). Along with the garments comes the Delivery Challan. This Challan contains the details of the buyer name, style number and the number of garments received for washing. When the garments are received, it is checked if the garment is soft or hard. If the fabric is soft, then the garment is jus washed with a softener. If the garment is hard then the garment undergoes a proper Wash Cycle. The wash cycle starts with the process of Desizing. This is the process of starch/size removal which makes the garment stiff. In the process of Desizing, firstly the garments are put in the industrial washing machine. Along with the garments are added 1000 l of water and chemicals Cotflax + Lube + Wetting agent. Steam is also passed through. If the wash is specified as a stone was, then pumice stone is also added along with the chemicals. Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai 99
The conditions maintained for this process are: Time 30 mins Temperature 60 C
The stone is used to remove the fuzziness and the raised texture on the garment surface. The stone also causes abrasion, which gives the garment a rugged look and feel.
After 30 mins, the stone is removed and the process of Enzyme Wash is given to the fabric. The water is let out until the water capacity in the machine is 800 l. That is, 200 l is let out. The chemicals added in this process are acid of 6.5 pH and an enzyme. 2 types of enzymes are generally used. Acid enzyme generally used for garments that are yarn dyed. Neutral enzyme generally used for denims and for garments made of white fabric. The conditions maintained for this process are: Time 40 mins Temperature 55 C
The washing section maintains a pH format. This format gives the exact pH to be maintained for the acids used. This is maintained in the pH Standard Report. This report is sent by the buyer. After this process, the garments are drained of the entire water. They are then washed once in fresh water and then loaded once again in the washing machine for the Over Dyeing process. The garments are loaded with 700 l of fresh water. To this the color (tint) is added. Along with this salt is also added and the garments washed for 10 mins. Then after 10 mins, soda is added and the garments washed for about 10 mins. The use of soda causes the garments to smell, hence to remove this smell Acetic acid is added and the garments washed for 4 mins.
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After this process the garments are drained of the entire water. They are washed in fresh water and then dried in the Hydro extractor. After this the garments are again rinsed in 700 l of water in cold conditions and Silicone Softeners are added. This causing the softening of the garments. After the garments are washed or given the softening (according to the garments being hard or soft) are dried using the Ramsons Tumble Drier. The garments are then stored in the after wash racks near the entrance door. The whole process takes almost 3 hrs to complete. The garments are then loaded in the truck and a Confirmation Copy is made. This copy contains the details and the number of garments that are being sent. The washing section also maintains a Stock Ledger. The left side of the ledger has the details of the garments received. It stores the Date, DC No, Qty, and the Tot Qty. the total quantity is the number of pieces that come in the whole day. The right side of the ledger has the details of the garments sent after washing. It stores the Date, DC No, Qty, and the Tot Qty. The total quantity is the number of pieces that are washed in the whole day.
101
102
MODULE - 1 COMPARITIVE STUDY OF MATERIAL FLOW FOR HANGER SYSTEM AND PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM
BY : HEMANT PANDEY
103
OBJECTIVE
The objective of the project is to compare material flow in progressive bundle system and hanger system and to suggest better line layout so as to improve material flow and hence increase productivity. Mccoy 1 has a combination of both progressive bundle system and hanger system. PBS is used in pre-preparatory & preparatory sections and hanger system is used in assembly section. Mccoy 3 uses PBS in pre-preparatory, preparatory and assembly section. This project brings out the advantages and disadvantages of both the systems, and their effectiveness in Mccoy1 and Mccoy3. Both the systems were not used in a manner so as to extract maximum benefit . The project highlights the unwanted and improper activities in the material flow that result in time wastage, unnecessary movement and thus low productivity.
104
METHODOLOGY
To complete this project material movement in both the units of Mccoy was very closely examined. Following activities were examined : The formation of bundles. Their passage from one operator to another. Role of the helpers. Storage of bundles. Sorting for assembly. Feeding in the hangers. Movement of hangers.
Material flow was observed for two styles in each of the units. All the problems related to material flow and line layout were noted. Unnecessary wastage of time, either due to unavailability of material or due to bottle-neck operation created was examined and taken into consideration. Help of factory manager or supervisor was taken wherever the material flow was not clear or there was some doubt relate to it.
105
6. An effective production control system and quality control system can be implemented. a. Time study, method study techniques. b. Operator training programme. c. Use of material handling equipment, such as centre table, chute, conveyor, trolley, bins, etc. 7. Bundle tracking is possible, so identifying and solving the problems becomes easy. DISADVANTAGES 1. Balancing the line is difficult and this problem is solved by an efficient supervisor. 2. Proper maintenance of equipment and machinery is needed. 3. Proper planning requires for each batch and for each style, which takes a lot of time. 4. Improper planning causes labour turnover, poor quality, less production, etc. 5. Increase in WIP in each section increases the inventory cost. 6. Planned and proper layout should be made to make the system effective, ie, smooth flow of material. 7. Variety of styles & less quantity are not effective in this system. 8. Shuttle operators and utility operators needed in every batch to balance the line effectively.
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Hanger system requires substantial investments, which are not always justified by conventional payback calculations. Apart from the measurable tangible benefits, UPS also have many intangible benefits such as a more orderly and controlled flow of work. These intangibles are difficult to measure, but in themselves make a very positive contribution to the overall viability of the unit. All things considered, hanger system has major advantages over bundle progressive system used for the mass production of clothing. Most importantly, they provide a clothing factory with the capability to respond quickly to any changes, which might occur. In the fast moving fashion business, this is essential.
108
ADVANTAGES 1. Bundle handling completely eliminated. 2. The time involved in the pick-up and disposal is reduced to minimum. 3. Output can be easily recorded, helps the operator to register the work. 4. The work can be easily balanced between stations and bottle-neck operations can be prevented in advance. DISADVANTAGES 1. hanger system requires high investments. 2. The payback period of the investment takes long time. 3. Proper planning is required to be effective.
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PROJECT
MCCOY 1 , LINE LAYOUT & MATERIAL FLOW ( OBSERVED DATA )
48.009.21.8404 / 48.010.21.3621 QS Male Casual full sleeve shirt with pkt flaps
The actual line layout and material flow for the given style is mentioned below. Mccoy-1 has one sewing line with 6 rows on the main floor and 4 small rows on the small raised sectional floor. Additional and unwanted flow and handeling of material can be observed from the layout. Better flow of material saves lot of production time and thus it can help in increasing productivity. The parts preparation section, front section and back section use bundling system to handle and transfer the parts . Each bundle consists of ten pieces. Some of the bundles are pushed to the next operator by the operator himself and some bundles are transferred to the require destination by helpers. The assembly system uses manual hanger system for material flow. All the pieces are fixed in the hanger after sorting them as per their label number . The operators take the required pieces from the hanger, perform their operation, place back the piece in the hanger and then forward it to the next
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A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7
B1 C2 B3 B4 B5 C4
D1
E1 E2 E3 E4 F1 F2 F3 S T A I R S
F5 B6 B7 C R B8 B9 B10 B11 B12 B13 B14 B15 B16 B17 C6 C7 D6 D7 D8 D9 D10 D11 D12 D13 D14 D15 D16 D17 E6 E7 E8 E9 E10 F11 A11 A12 A13 A14 A15 A16 A17 C11 C12 C13 C14 C15 C16 C17 E11 E12 E13 E14 E15 E16 E17 G1 Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai H1 I1 111 G6 G5 G4 G3 G2 H6 H5 H4 H3 H2 I6 I5 I4 J4 I3 I2 J3 J2 J1 J7 J6 J5 F8 F9 F10 C10 F6
S L A B
A8 A9 A10
S L A B
C8 C9
OPERATIONS : ROW - A
M/C. No. A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 A9 A10 A11 A12 A13 A14 A15 A16 A17
M/C TYPE
OPERATION
SNLS Collar lining attachment Table Collar stand turning SNLS Collar stand making PR Collar stand pressing SNLS Collar stand making SNLS Collar band preparation SNLS Collar stand top stitch MARKING Pocket, collar & cuff marking COLLAR SHAPE Collar stand shape cutting CUTTING CHECKING Collar checking SNLS Cuff preparation SNLS Collar band & stand Attach SNLS Collar band & stand Attach SNLS Collar stand preparation SNLS Collar joining top stitch SNLS Extra fabric cutting from collar MARKING Markin g & notch making in collar
ROW - B
M/C. No. B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 B9 B10 B11 B12 B13 B14 B15 B16 B17
M/C TYPE SNLS SNLS SNLS TURNING SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS MARKING SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS CHECKING SNLS SNLS TURNING
OPERATION Pocket flap top stitch Pocket flap stitch Cuff top stitch Pocket flap turning Pocket flap Preparation Pocket flap Preparation Cuff fused part fold & stitch Cuff fused part fold & stitch Cuff fused part marking Cuff preparation Collar band & stand attachment Colar stand making Cuff checking Collar band tape attachment Cuff top stitch Cuff turning 112
ROW - C M/C. No. C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 C7 C8 C9 C10 C11 C12 C13 C14 C15 C16 C17 M/C TYPE SNLS SNLS Bundling SNLS SNLS Bundling Bundling SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Checking SNLS SNLS SNLS Ironing OPERATION Front yoke attaching Front yoke top stitch Front parts & pocket flap sorting Pocket flap attachment Pocket flap attachment Pocket cutting & bundling front & pocket Pocket cutting & bundling front & pocket Pocket mouth top stitch Pocket mouth top stitch Pocket attaching Pocket attaching Pocket attaching Pocket checking Side label attaching Front yoke closing Sleeve dog house placket attaching Cuff ironing
ROW - D M/C. No. D1 D2 D3 D4 D5 D6 D7 D8 D9 D10 D11 D12 D13 D14 D15 D16 D17 M/C TYPE SNLS SNLS Marking SNLS Checking SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Bundling OPERATION Hemming Front yoke attaching Cuff marking Cuff attaching Cuff checking Bottom label attachment Bottom label attachment Front yoke attachment Front yoke 1/4 stitch Front placket preparation Front placket preparation
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ROW - E M/C. No. E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 E8 E9 E10 E11 E12 E13 E14 E15 E16 E17 M/C TYPE Checking Feed of arm Feed of arm SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Checking SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Feeding OPERATION Side seam checking Side seam Side seam Sleeve top stitch Sleeve top stitch Sleeve attaching Sleeve attaching Sleeve attaching Sleeve attaching Collar checking Collar attaching & closing Collar attaching & closing Collar attaching & closing Shoulder top stitch Shoulder attachment Shoulder attachment Hanger feeding
ROW - F M/C. No. F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 F11 M/C TYPE Pressing Pressing Pressing Pressing Pressing Pressing SNLS SNLS SNLS Checking Table OPERATION Pocket folding & ironing Pocket folding & ironing Flap folding & ironing Cuff folding & ironing Front placket ironing Front placket ironing Button hole placket making ( self ) Button placket attaching ( separate ) Button placket attaching ( separate ) Placket checking Bundle keeping
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ROW - G & H M/C. No. G1 G2 G3 G4 G5 G6 H1 H2 H3 H4 H5 H6 M/C TYPE Table SNLS Bar tack SNLS SNLS SNLS Table SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS OPERATION Bundle sorting & keeping
Bundle sorting & keeping Sleeve placket label attachment Sleeve placket label attachment
ROW - I & J M/C. No. I1 I2 I3 I4 I5 I6 J1 J2 J3 J4 J5 J6 J7 M/C TYPE Table SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS OPERATION Bundle sorting & keeping Back yoke attaching Back yoke attaching Back dart Back dart
Sleeve lower placket attaching Sleeve lower placket attaching Sleeve lower placket attaching Dog house placket making Dog house placket attaching Dog house placket attaching Back yoke top stitch
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C2
END LINE
A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7
C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 C7
E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 F5 E6 E7 E8 E9 E10 F11 E11 E12 E13 E14 E15 E16 E17 G1 H1 I1 G6 G5 G4 G3 G2 H6 H5 H4 H3 H2 I6 I5 I4 F8 F9 F10 F6 F1 F2 F3 S T A I R S
CHECKING TABLE
S L A B
S L A B
J7 J6 J5 J4
I3 I2
J3 J2 J1
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OPERATIONS : ROW - A
M/C. No. A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 A9 A10 A11 A12 A13 A14 A15 A16 A17
M/C TYPE SNLS Table SNLS SNLS SNLS Turning Pressing SNLS Collar shape cutting SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Checking
OPERATION Collar stand lining attachment Pocket, collar & cuff marking Collar stand making Collar stand making Collar stand making Collar stand turning Collar stand pressing Collar stand top stitch Collar stand shape cutting Collar band making Collar band making Collar band & stand Attach Collar band & stand Attach Collar joining top stitch Collar tape attachment Extra fabric cutting from collar Collar checking
ROW - B
M/C. No. B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 B9 B10 B11 B12 B13 B14 B15 B16 B17
M/C TYPE SNLS SNLS Turning SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS MARKING SNLS SNLS Turning Ironing SNLS SNLS Checking Notch making checking
OPERATION Pocket flap Preparation Pocket flap Preparation Pocket flap turning Pocket flap top stitch Pocket flap stitch Cuff fused part fold & stitch Cuff fused part fold & stitch Cuff marking Cuff preparation Cuff preparation Cuff turning Cuff ironing Cuff top stitch Cuff top stitch Cuff checking Collar marking and notch making Collar checking 117
ROW - C M/C. No. C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 C7 C8 C9 C10 C11 C12 C13 C14 C15 C16 C17 M/C TYPE SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Sorting SNLS SNLS Bundling Bundling SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Checking SNLS SNLS OPERATION Front yoke attaching Front yoke attaching Front yoke attaching Front yoke top stitch Front parts & pocket flap sorting Pocket flap attachment Pocket flap attachment Pocket cutting & bundling front & pocket Pocket cutting & bundling front & pocket Pocket mouth top stitch Pocket mouth top stitch Pocket attaching Pocket attaching Pocket attaching Pocket checking Side label attaching Front yoke closing
ROW - D M/C. No. D1 D2 D3 D4 D5 D6 D7 D8 D9 D10 D11 D12 D13 D14 D15 D16 D17 M/C TYPE Feeding SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Checking SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS DNCS SNLS SNLS Checking OPERATION Hanger feeding Shoulder attachment Shoulder attachment Shoulder top stitch Collar attaching & closing Collar attaching & closing Collar attaching & closing Collar checking Sleeve attaching Sleeve attaching Sleeve attaching Sleeve top stitch Sleeve top stitch Side seam Hemming Cuff attaching Cuff checking Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai 118
ROW - E M/C. No. E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 E8 E9 E10 E11 E12 E13 E14 E15 E16 E17 M/C TYPE Checking SNLS SNLS Feed of arm SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Checking SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Feeding OPERATION Cuff checking Cuff attaching Hemming Side seam Sleeve top stitch Sleeve top stitch Sleeve attaching Sleeve attaching Sleeve attaching Collar checking Collar attaching & closing Collar attaching & closing Collar attaching & closing Shoulder top stitch Shoulder attachment Shoulder attachment Hanger feeding
ROW - F M/C. No. F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 F11 M/C TYPE Pressing Pressing Pressing Pressing Pressing Pressing SNLS SNLS SNLS Checking Table OPERATION Pocket folding & ironing Pocket folding & ironing Flap folding & ironing Cuff folding & ironing Front placket ironing Front placket ironing Button hole placket making ( self ) Button placket attaching ( separate ) Button placket attaching ( separate ) Placket checking Bundle keeping
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ROW - G & H M/C. No. G1 G2 G3 G4 G5 G6 H1 H2 H3 H4 H5 H6 M/C TYPE Table SNLS SNLS Bar tack SNLS SNLS Table SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS OPERATION Bundle sorting & keeping Back yoke label attaching Back yoke label attaching Back yoke label bar tack Back yoke label closing
Bundle sorting & keeping Back yoke top stitch Back yoke attaching Back yoke attaching Back dart Back dart
ROW - I & J M/C. No. I1 I2 I3 I4 I5 I6 J1 J2 J3 J4 J5 J6 J7 M/C TYPE Table SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS OPERATION Bundle sorting & keeping Dog house placket label attach Dog house placket label attach Dog house placket label attach
Sleeve lower placket attaching Sleeve lower placket attaching Sleeve lower placket attaching Dog house placket making Dog house placket making Dog house placket attaching Dog house placket attaching
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The actual line layout and material flow for the given style is mentioned below. Mccoy-3 has one sewing line with 5 rows , 3 for sewing, 1 for pressing and marking and 1 for bar tack, button and button hole. Additional and unwanted flow and handeling of material can be observed from the layout. Better flow of material saves lot of production time and thus it can help in increasing productivity. Progressive bundle system is used to handle and transfer the parts . Each bundle consists of ten pieces. Some of the bundles are pushed to the next operator by the operator himself and some bundles are transferred to the require destination by helpers.
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A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 A9
C E T R E
C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6
D1 D2 D3 D4
E1 E2 E3 E4 E5
P I L L A R
E6 E7 E8 E9 E10 E11 E12 E13 E14 E15 E16 E17
C7
S L A B
T A B L E
D5
A17 B17 A18 B18 A19 B19 A20 B20 A21 B21 A22 A23 A24 A25 A26 A27 A28 A29 A30 B23 B24 B25
C E T R E
CR
B22
CR
T A B L E
CR
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ROW - A M/C No. A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 A9 A10 A11 A12 A13 A14 A15 A16 MACHINE TYPE Checking SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Marking Overlock Turning Ironing SNLS Collar shape cutting SNLS SNLS Checking SNLS OPERATION End line checking Collar edge top stitch Attaching collar edge Attaching collar edge Collar stand making Collar stand making Collar marking Cutting extra fabric from band Collar stand turning Collar stand ironing Collar stand top stitch Collar stand shape cutting Collar bottom stitch Collar stand fused part fold & stitch Collar band & stand checking Attaching lower part of collar band to stand Attaching lower part of collar band to stand Collar joint top stitch Cuff making Collar tape attaching Collar label attaching Cuff fused part fold & stitch
ROW - B M/C No. B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 B9 B10 B11 B12 B13 B14 B15 B16 MACHINE TYPE SNLS SNLS SNLS Marking SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Table SNLS SNLS DNCS DNCS Shoulder attach Sleeve patch attach Sleeve patch attach Dog house placket attach Sleeve marking Collar edge turn & stitch Front placket making Front placket making 123 Sleeve top stitch Sleeve attach Collar closing Collar end closing Collar tape attach Sorting front, back & collar OPERATION Hemming Cuff attach Cuff attach Cuff marking and sorting Bottom label attach
Cuff making Cuff making Cuff turning Cuff top stitch Collar edge making folding & stitching cuff fused part
Collar edge making Yoke attach Back checking Back fold & stitch(2nd ) Back fold & stitch ( 1st ) Yoke label attach
ROW - C
ROW D & E
M/C No. C1
MACHINE TYPE SNLS Feed off Arm Feed off Arm SNLS SNLS SNLS Table SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Table SNLS SNLS
OPERATION Hemming
M/C No. D1
C2
Side seam
D2
Side seam Label cutting Sleeve attach Sleeve attach Sleeve and body sorting Collar attach Size label attach on collar Collar attach Shoulder attach Sleeve checking and sorting Dog house placket attach Dog house placket
D3 D4 D5 E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 E8
MACHINE OPERATION TYPE Arm hole table trimming & cutting Button & table button hole marking Button & table button hole marking
Button hole Button hole Button attach Button attach Button attach
Button hole Button hole Button attach Button attach Button attach
attach C15 C16 SNLS SNLS Sleeve placket end stitch Lower sleeve placket attach Collar edge making Sleeve lower placket making Joining contrast fabric straps Front placket contrast fabric attach Front placket contrast fabric attach E9 E10 Ironing table Ironing table table table Ironing table Ironing table
placket making Cuff ironing Pocket folding & ironing Dog house placket cutting Pocket cutting Pocket folding & ironing Collar band folding & ironing
C20
SNLS
E14
C21 C22 C23 C24 C25 C26 C27 C28 C29 C30
E15 E16 Ironing table table SNLS SNLS table Cuff ironing Pocket marking Pocket attaching Pocket attaching Pocket checking
Yoke attach Back yoke checking Making continous strap for lower sleeve placket Back fold and stitch ( 2nd ) Collar tape attach Yoke label attach
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MAINTENANCE ROOM
C1 C2
Maintenance table
D1
C3 C4 C5 C6
E1 E2 E3 E4 E5
P I L L A R
E6 E7 E8 E9 E10 E11 E12 E13 E14 E15 E16 E17 E18 E19 E20
D2 D3 D4
D5
C13 C14 C15 C16 C17 C18 C19 C20 C21 C22 C23 C24 C25 C26 C27 C28
A16 B16 A17 B17 A18 B18 A19 B19 A20 B20 A21 A22 A23 A24 A25 A26 A27 A28 A29 A30 B21 B22 B23 B24 B25 B26 B27 B28
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ROW - A
M/C No. A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 A9 A10 A11 A12 A13 A14 MACHINE TYPE Checking SNLS SNLS SNLS Turning SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Checking OPERATION Cuff checking Cuff top stitch Cuff top stitch Cuff ironing Cuff turning Cuff making Cuff making Cuff making Cuff fused part fold and stitch Cuff fused part fold and stitch Collar tape attach Collar tape attach Collar label attachment Collar checking Collar band & stand joining top stitch Attaching lower part of collar band to stand Attaching lower part of collar band to stand Collar band & stand checking Collar band fused part fold & stitch Collar bottom stitch
ROW - B
M/C No. B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 B9 B10 B11 B12 B13 B14 MACHINE OPERATION TYPE Side label SNLS attach SNLS Hemming SNLS Cuff attach Cuff marking Marking and sorting Feed off Side seam arm Sleeve top SNLS stitch SNLS Sleeve attach SNLS Collar closing Collar end SNLS closing Shoulder top SNLS stitch Shoulder SNLS attach Sorting front, Table back & collar Sleeve patch DNCS attach dog house SNLS sleeve placket attach dog house SNLS sleeve placket attach SNLS Lower sleeve placket attach Lower sleeve placket attach Sleeve placket continous strap making Sleeve placket continous strap making Back yoke top stitch 127
A15
SNLS
B15
A16
SNLS
B16
A17
SNLS
B17
SNLS
A18
Checking
B18
SNLS
A19 A20
SNLS SNLS
B19 B20
SNLS SNLS
A21 A22 A23 A24 A25 A26 A27 A28 A29 A30
Cutting SNLS Ironing Turning SNLS SNLS Marking SNLS SNLS SNLS
Collar stand shape cutting Collar stand top stitch Collar stand ironing Collar stand turning Collar stand making Collar stand making Collar marking Collar edge top stitch Collar edge making Collar edge making
B21 B22 B23 B24 B25 B26 B27 B28 B29 B30
Back yoke top stitch Back yoke attach Back yoke attach Back checking Back fold & stitch(2nd ) Back fold & stitch(2nd ) Back fold & stitch ( 1st ) Yoke label attach
ROW - C
ROW - D & E
M/C No. C1 C2
M/C No. D1 D2
C3
D3
C4 C5 C6 C7 C8 C9 C10 C11
Sleeve top stitch Sleeve attach Sleeve attach Sleeve and body sorting Label attach on collar Collar attach Collar attach Shoulder attach
D4 D5 E1 E2 E3 E4 E5
MACHINE OPERATION TYPE End line Table checking Button & Table button hole marking Button & Table button hole marking Button & Table button hole marking Bar tack Bar tack Button hole Button hole Button attach Button attach Button Button hole Button hole Button attach Button attach Button attach 128
attach C12 C13 C14 Table DNCS Marking Sleeve checking and sorting Sleeve patch attach Sleeve marking Dog house placket attach Lower sleeve placket edge stitch Pocket checking Pocket attaching Pocket attaching Pocket marking pocket mouth closing pocket mouth closing Front placket contrast fabric attach Front placket contrast fabric attach Front placket making Front placket making Front placket making Yoke label attach E6 E7 E8 Ironing Ironing Cuff ironing Dog house placket making Dog house placket making Dog house placket cutting Pocket folding & ironing Pocket folding & ironing Pocket cutting Collar band folding & ironing
C15 C16 C17 C18 C19 C20 C21 C22 C23 C24 C25 C26 C27 C28 C29 C30
SNLS SNLS Checking SNLS SNLS Marking SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS
E9 E10 E11 E12 E13 E14 E15 E16 E17 E18 E19 E20
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ANALYSIS MCCOY 1
The existing layout in McCoy 1 has following problems : There was unnecessary movement of material resulting in time loss. Additional helpers were involved for transferring bundles across the sewing rows. The major loss in production was due to use of only one assembly row in the sewing line. At some processes the flow was not clearly distinguished, as the two or more than two operators passed on the bundles to two or more operators for another operation and all of them positioned randomly. Some times the operators moved from their place to get the bundles resulting in unnecessary time loss.
PROPOSED LAYOUT
The proposed layout has following advantages over the existing layout. Less distance covered by bundles. Lesser movement of bundles Clear and defined movement of bundles The bundles are passed on from one operator to another in a manner so that helper requirement is minimum and operators also do not have to leave their place. In assembley section two rows are suggested rather than only one row that minimises the chance of bottleneck creation.
Disadvantages of one row assembly section : The hangers got struck at some operators as they were not able to finish the operations before their former operators. This delayed the hanger movement and finally the last operator was unable to get continuous material resulting in time loss. Eg. In collar attaching there were three operators and in sleeve attaching there were four operators. Hangers were pulled by the collar attaching operators and placed in such a way that all three can access the hangers. But the hangers were passed on to the sleeve attaching operators only when the last collar attaching operator completed his operations. As the hangers cant bypass any operator the operators had to wait for material in such cases. And since there were four operators for sleeve attaching next to collar attaching the process got more slower and more delayed for the operators doing sleeve top stitch.
130
Benefits of two row assembly section The two row assembly section minimises bottleneck creation The flow becomes more synchronised and hence productivity increase. As the number of operators for one operation gets reduced the flow becomes more easier and delay time gets reduced. Now since the last operator receives hangers continuously he can easily achieve his target and thus increase productivity.
MCCOY 3
The existing layout in McCoy 3 has following problems : Unnecessary movement of material resulting in time loss. Additional helpers were involved for transferring bundles across the sewing rows. At some processes the flow was not clearly distinguished, as the two or more than two operators passed on the bundles to two or more operators for another operation and all of them positioned randomly. Some times the operators moved from their place to get the bundles resulting in unnecessary time loss. The collar and cuff section were wrongly placed resulting in unwanted movement of the bundles. The movement of the bundles in assembly section was not proper resulting in bottle neck creation and operators sitting ideal.
PROPOSED LAYOUT
The proposed layout has following advantages over the existing layout. Less distance covered by bundles. Lesser movement of bundles Clear and defined movement of bundles The bundles are passed on from one operator to another in a manner so that helper requirement is minimum and operators also do not have to leave their place. The assembly is planned so that bottleneck creation reduces to minimum and there is minimum hindrance in the material flow.
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CONCLUSION
From this project it can be concluded that material flow in both Mccoy-3 and Mccoy-1 need to be changed so as to minimize time wastage, reduce unnecessary helper movement and also eliminate bottle-neck creation due to material shortage. It can also be concluded that hanger system results in better material flow and also lesser no. of helpers are involved. In hanger system controlling material flow in assembly section can easily be monitored and maintained. The hanger system also helps in easy identification of bottle-neck that may arise in the assembly section as the WIP of a particular operator is clearly visible. By using two parallel lines for assembly in hanger system the output can be increased to a great extent, but then it will required proper feeding. Hanger system works more efficiently when the assembly starts after sufficient number of parts are made so that feeding remains regular. Substituting PBS with hanger system in assembly section of Mccoy 3 would thus be very beneficial with regard to material flow. Increase in productivity due to efficient material flow can be accounted for the installation charges of the hanger system. The project also helped me a lot in understanding the flow and handling of material in both PBS and hanger system. It also helped me in understanding the merits and demerits of both the systems and the practical problems associated with working of each of them.
132
BY : RAKESH
133
OBJECTIVE: To compare production & profit per day of progressive bundle system & Hanger System.
METHODOLOGY: Observe & Record time of each element for each operation in the assembly line. Do above step for both progressive bundle system & Hanger system, three styles for each. Three styles for each assembly system: Hanger System: Style #001 (Style No. 2460) Style #002 (Style No. xxx) Style #003 (Style No. xxx) Progressive Bundle System: Style #004 (Style No. 4961) Style #005 (Style No. xxx) Style #006 (Style No. xxx)
Separate handling time & sewing time for each operation for all the above styles. Calculate average handling time & sewing time for each operation for each assembly system. Compare handling time & sewing time for each operation, between hanger system and progressive bundle system. Compare total handling time & sewing time for the assembly line. Compare predicted output for the assembly lines of both and find difference in production per day.
134
135
Total (min.) OBSERVATION OPERATION SLEEVE ATTACHMENT PICK & ALIGN 1st SLEEVE STICH PICK & ALIGN 2nd SLEEVE STICH DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.) ARMHOLE TOP STITCH PICK & PLACE 1 STITCH PICK & PLACE 2 STITCH DISPOSE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
0.47685 AVERAGE
S.No. 5
FEED OF ARM PICK & PLACE STITCH TURN SIDE STITCH Total (sec.) Total (min.) BOTTOM HEM PICK & PLACE STITCH DISPOSE
136
35.74 0.59566666
S.No. 9
OBSERVATION OPERATION CUFF ATTACHMENT PICK & PLACE STITCH 1 PICK & PLACE STITCH 2 DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.)
10
AVERAGE
137
S.No. 1
138
Total (min.) OBSERVATION: OPERATION SLEEVE ATTACHMENT PICK & ALIGN 1st SLEEVE STICH PICK & ALIGN 2nd SLEEVE STICH DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.) ARMHOLE TOP STITCH PICK & PLACE 1st SLEEVE STITCH PICK & PLACE 2nd SLEEVE STITCH DISPOSE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
0.5136666 AVERAGE
S.No. 5
FEED OF ARM PICK & PLACE STITCH TURN SIDE STITCH Total (sec.) Total (min.) BOTTOM HEM PICK & PLACE STITCH DISPOSE Total (sec.)
139
Total (min.)
0.5521666
S.No. 9
OBSERVATION: OPERATION CUFF ATTACHMENT PICK & PLACE STITCH 1 PICK & PLACE STITCH 2 DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.)
10
AVERAGE
140
S.No. 1
141
Total (min.) OBSERVATION: OPERATION SLEEVE ATTACHMENT Pick & align 1 Stitch 1 Pick & align 2 Stitch 2 Dispose Total (sec.) Total (min.) ARMHOLE TOP STITCH Pick & align 1 Stitch 1 Pick & align 2 Stitch 2 Dispose Total (sec.) Total (min.) FEED OF ARM PICK & PLACE STITCH TURN SIDE STITCH Total (sec.) Total (min.) BOTTOM HEM PICK & PLACE STITCH DISPOSE Total (sec.) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
0.55125 AVERAGE
S.No. 5
142
Total (min.)
0.544583
S.No. 9
OBSERVATION: OPERATION CUFF ATTACHMENT PICK & PLACE STITCH 1 PICK & PLACE STITCH 2 DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.)
10
AVERAGE
143
S.No. 1
144
Total (min.) OBSERVATION: OPERATION SLEEVE ATTACHMENT PICK & ALIGN 1st SLEEVE STICH PICK & ALIGN 2nd SLEEVE STICH DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.) SLEEVE TOP STITCH PICK & ALIGN STITCH 1 PICK & ALIGN STITCH 2 DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.) FEED OF ARM PICK & ALIGN STITCH TURN SIDE STITCH Total (sec.) Total (min.) BOTTOM HEM PICK & ALIGN STITCH DISPOSE Total (sec.) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
0.665166 AVERAGE
S.No. 5
145
Total (min.)
0.783583
S.No. 9
OBSERVATION: OPERATION CUFF ATTACHMENT PICK & ALIGN STITCH ALIGN 2nd SLEEVE STITCH DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.)
10
AVERAGE
146
S.No. 1
147
Total (min.) OBSERVATION: OPERATION SLEEVE ATTACHMENT PICK & ALIGN 1st SLEEVE STICH PICK & ALIGN 2nd SLEEVE STICH DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.) SLEEVE TOP STITCH PICK & ALIGN STITCH 1 PICK & ALIGN STITCH 2 DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.) FEED OF ARM PICK & ALIGN STITCH TURN SIDE STITCH Total (sec.) Total (min.) BOTTOM HEM PICK & ALIGN STITCH DISPOSE Total (sec.) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
0.654516 AVERAGE
S.No. 5
148
Total (min.)
0.737483
S.No. 9
OBSERVATION: OPERATION CUFF ATTACHMENT PICK & ALIGN STITCH ALIGN 2nd SLEEVE STITCH DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.)
10
AVERAGE
149
S.No. 1
150
Total (min.) OBSERVATION: OPERATION SLEEVE ATTACHMENT PICK & ALIGN 1st SLEEVE STICH PICK & ALIGN 2nd SLEEVE STICH DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.) SLEEVE TOP STITCH PICK & ALIGN STITCH 1 PICK & ALIGN STITCH 2 DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.) FEED OF ARM PICK & ALIGN STITCH TURN SIDE STITCH Total (sec.) Total (min.) BOTTOM HEM PICK & ALIGN STITCH DISPOSE Total (sec.) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
0.66 AVERAGE
S.No. 5
151
Total (min.)
0.7425
S.No. 9
OBSERVATION: OPERATION CUFF ATTACHMENT PICK & ALIGN STITCH ALIGN 2nd SLEEVE STITCH DISPOSE Total (sec.) Total (min.)
10
AVERAGE
152
Handling Time S. No. Operations Pick & Place Time (sec.) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Shoulder Attachment Shoulder Top Stitch Collar Attachment Collar Closing Sleeve Attachment Armhole Top Stitch Feed of Arm Bottom Hem Cuff Attachment Total (sec.) 22.093 5.858 7.736 3.904 26.553 7.159 7.831 11.24 15.084 107.458 Align Time (sec.) 18.655 2.832 17.076 8.475 7.89 10.091 65.019 Dispose Time (sec.) 1.327 1.44 1.403 1.2 1.352 1.423 1.087 2.503 11.735 Total Time (sec.) 42.075 10.13 9.139 5.104 44.981 17.057 15.721 12.327 27.678 184.212 Stitch 1 Time (sec.) 7.138 3.054 28.145 23.507 28.118 25.333 8.32 23.413 15.801 162.829
Stitching Time Stitch 2 Time (sec.) 7.134 3.012 26.408 24.119 9.048 16.203 85.924 Total Time (sec.) 14.272 6.066 28.145 23.507 54.526 49.452 17.368 23.413 32.004 248.753
Grand Total Time (sec.) 56.347 16.196 37.284 28.611 99.507 66.509 33.089 35.74 59.682 432.965
153
Handling Time S. No. Operations Pick & Place Time (sec.) 23.457 4.926 8.909 4.055 27.569 7.456 7.486 10.226 14.288 108.372 Align Time (sec.) 20.84 2.842 16.191 7.733 6.94 9.07 63.616 Dispose Time (sec.) 1.262 1.366 1.284 1.268 1.378 1.458 1.117 2.524 11.657 Total Time (sec.) 45.559 9.134 10.193 5.323 45.138 16.647 14.426 11.343 25.882 183.645 Stitch 1 Time (sec.) 8.354 2.971 31.147 25.497 27.54 26.693 8.371 21.787 17.16 169.52
Stitching Time Stitch 2 Time (sec.) 8.031 2.938 27.331 27.715 8.246 17.241 91.502 Total Time (sec.) 16.385 5.909 31.147 25.497 54.871 54.408 16.617 21.787 34.401 261.022
Grand Total Time (sec.) 61.944 15.043 41.34 30.82 100.009 71.055 31.043 33.13 60.283 444.667
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Shoulder Attachment Shoulder Top Stitch Collar Attachment Collar Closing Sleeve Attachment Armhole Top Stitch Feed of Arm Bottom Hem Cuff Attachment Total (sec.)
154
Handling Time S. No. Operations Pick & Place Time (sec.) 26.335 5.028 10.036 4.87 23.578 6.49 7.391 9.782 13.577 107.087 Align Time (sec.) 19.366 2.881 16.446 6.818 8.278 9.857 63.646 Dispose Time (sec.) 1.481 1.341 1.376 1.366 1.374 1.462 1.106 2.505 12.011 Total Time (sec.) 47.182 9.25 11.412 6.236 41.398 14.77 15.669 10.888 25.939 182.744 Stitch 1 Time (sec.) 8.825 2.952 28.806 26.839 24.247 25.536 7.796 21.787 17.897 164.685
Stitching Time Stitch 2 Time (sec.) 8.816 2.956 24.51 25.076 7.754 17.967 87.079 Total Time (sec.) 17.641 5.908 28.806 26.839 48.757 50.612 15.55 21.787 35.864 251.764
Grand Total Time (sec.) 64.823 15.158 40.218 33.075 90.155 65.382 31.219 32.675 61.803 434.508
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Shoulder Attachment Shoulder Top Stitch Collar Attachment Collar Closing Sleeve Attachment Armhole Top Stitch Feed of Arm Bottom Hem Cuff Attachment Total (sec.)
155
HANDLING TIME AND STITCHING TIME STYLE #004 (PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Shoulder Attachment Shoulder Top Stitch Collar Attachment Collar Closing Sleeve Attachment Armhole Top Stitch Feed of Arm Bottom Hem Cuff Attachment Total (sec.)
Total Time (sec.) 47.218 13.923 12.654 15.361 65.068 26.088 17.779 20.205 28.29 246.586
165.287
69.838
11.461
Stitching Time Stitch 1 Stitch 2 Total Time Time Time (sec.) (sec.) (sec.) 14.156 7.059 7.097 6.138 3.02 3.118 28.426 28.426 24.549 24.549 52.176 26.995 25.181 47.976 25.987 21.989 24.075 11.463 12.612 26.81 26.81 32.176 15.768 16.408 170.077 86.405 256.482
Grand Total Time (sec.) 61.374 20.061 41.08 39.91 117.244 74.064 41.854 47.015 60.466 503.068
156
HANDLING TIME AND STITCHING TIME STYLE #005 (PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM)
Stitching Time Total Time (sec.) 46.567 13.947 12.911 15.044 64.342 25.86 20.111 20.099 29.73 248.611 Stitch 1 Time (sec.)
7.026 3.174 27.647 24.227 27.842 24.808 9.284 24.15 15.991
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Shoulder Attachment Shoulder Top Stitch Collar Attachment Collar Closing Sleeve Attachment Armhole Top Stitch Feed of Arm Bottom Hem Cuff Attachment Total (sec.)
Total Time (sec.) 14.167 6.616 27.647 24.227 54.611 45.981 19.108 24.15 32.59 249.097
Grand Total Time (sec.) 60.734 20.563 40.558 39.271 118.953 71.841 39.219 44.249 62.32 497.708
164.693
72.524
11.394
164.149
84.948
157
HANDLING TIME AND STITCHING TIME STYLE #006 (PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM)
Stitching Time Total Time (sec.) 47.538 14.282 13.811 15.049 63.984 27.887 18.543 19.676 29.982 250.752 Stitch 1 Time (sec.)
7.359 3.02 24.733 24.548 25.581 26.465 9.244 24.876 15.003
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Shoulder Attachment Shoulder Top Stitch Collar Attachment Collar Closing Sleeve Attachment Armhole Top Stitch Feed of Arm Bottom Hem Cuff Attachment Total (sec.)
Total Time (sec.) 14.76 6.197 24.733 24.548 51.653 51.183 18.284 24.876 30.113 246.347
Grand Total Time (sec.) 62.298 20.479 38.544 39.597 115.637 79.07 36.827 44.552 60.095 497.099
166.319
72.532
11.901
160.829
85.518
158
Style #002
Time (sec.)
Style #003
Time (sec.)
Style #001
Time (sec.)
Style #002
Time (sec.)
Style #003
Time (sec.)
Average
Time (sec.)
Total Average
Time (sec.)
Total Average
Time (min.)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Shoulder Attachment Shoulder Top Stitch Collar Attachment Collar Closing Sleeve Attachment Armhole Top Stitch Feed of Arm Bottom Hem Cuff Attachment
42.075 10.13 9.139 5.104 44.981 17.057 15.721 12.327 27.678 184.212
44.9387 9.5047 10.248 5.5543 43.839 16.158 15.272 11.5193 26.4997 183.5337
14.272 6.066 28.145 23.507 54.526 49.452 17.368 23.413 32.004 248.753
16.385 5.909 31.147 25.497 54.871 54.408 16.617 21.787 34.401 261.022
17.641 5.908 28.806 26.839 48.757 50.612 15.55 21.787 35.864 251.764
16.0993 5.961 29.366 25.281 52.718 51.4907 16.5117 22.329 34.0897 253.8464
61.038 15.4657 39.614 30.8353 96.557 67.6487 31.7837 33.8483 60.5894 437.3801
1.017 0.258 0.66 0.514 1.609 1.127 0.53 0.564 1.01 7.289
Total (sec.)
183.645 182.744
159
Style #005
Time (sec.)
Style #006
Time (sec.)
Style #004
Time (sec.)
Style #005
Time (sec.)
Style #006
Time (sec.)
Average
Time (sec.)
Total Average
Time (sec.)
Total Average
Time (min.)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Shoulder Attachment Shoulder Top Stitch Collar Attachment Collar Closing Sleeve Attachment Armhole Top Stitch Feed of Arm Bottom Hem Cuff Attachment
Total (sec.)
47.218 13.923 12.654 15.361 65.068 26.088 17.779 20.205 28.29 246.586
46.567 13.947 12.911 15.044 64.342 25.86 20.111 20.099 29.73 248.611
47.538 14.282 13.811 15.049 63.984 27.887 18.543 19.676 29.982 250.752
47.1077 14.0507 13.1253 15.1513 64.4647 26.6117 18.811 19.9933 29.334 248.6497
14.156 6.138 28.426 24.549 52.176 47.976 24.075 26.81 32.176 256.482
14.167 6.616 27.647 24.227 54.611 45.981 19.108 24.15 32.59 249.097
14.76 6.197 24.733 24.548 51.653 51.183 18.284 24.876 30.113 246.347
14.361 6.317 26.9353 24.4413 52.8133 48.38 20.489 25.2787 31.6263 250.6419
61.4687 20.3677 40.0606 39.5926 117.278 74.9917 39.3 45.272 60.9603 499.2916
1.024 0.339 0.668 0.66 1.955 1.25 0.655 0.755 1.016 8.322
160
COMPARISON OF AVERAGE HANDLING TIME AND STITCHING TIME HANGER SYSTEM Vs PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM
S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Operations
PBS Time (sec.) 47.1077 14.0507 13.1253 15.1513 64.4647 26.6117 18.811 19.9933 29.334 248.6497
Shoulder Attachment Shoulder Top Stitch Collar Attachment Collar Closing Sleeve Attachment Armhole Top Stitch Feed of Arm Bottom Hem Cuff Attachment Total (sec.)
Handling Time Hanger Difference System Time Time (sec.) (sec.) 44.9387 2.169 9.5047 4.546 10.248 2.8773 5.5543 9.597 43.839 20.6257 16.158 10.4537 15.272 3.539 11.5193 8.474 26.4997 2.8343 183.5337 65.116
Difference Time (min.) 0.036 0.076 0.048 0.16 0.344 0.174 0.059 0.141 0.047 1.085
PBS Time (sec.) 14.361 6.317 26.9353 24.4413 52.8133 48.38 20.489 25.2787 31.6263 250.6419
Stitching Time Hanger Difference System Time Time (sec.) (sec.) 16.0993 -1.7383 5.961 0.356 29.366 -2.4307 25.281 -0.8397 52.718 0.0953 51.4907 -3.1107 16.5117 3.9773 22.329 2.9497 34.0897 -2.4634 253.8464 -3.2045
Difference Time (min.) -0.029 0.006 -0.041 -0.014 0.002 -0.052 0.066 0.049 -0.041 -0.054
161
COMPARISON OF AVERAGE HANDLING TIME AND STITCHING TIME HANGER SYSTEM Vs PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM
162
TOTAL DIFFERENCE IN STANDARD MINUTE PER GARMENT HANGER SYSTEM Vs PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM
S. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Operations Shoulder Attachment Shoulder Top Stitch Collar Attachment Collar Closing Sleeve Attachment Armhole Top Stitch Feed of Arm Bottom Hem Cuff Attachment Total (sec.)
PBS Time (min.) 1.024 0.339 0.668 0.66 1.955 1.25 0.655 0.755 1.016 8.322
Hanger System Time (min.) 1.017 0.258 0.66 0.514 1.609 1.127 0.53 0.564 1.01 7.289
Difference Time (min.) 0.007 0.081 0.008 0.146 0.346 0.123 0.125 0.191 0.006 1.033
Number of Workstation
2 1 2 1 4 2 2 1 2
17
163
2. At 60% Efficiency:
Assembly Type PBS Hanger System *SM/gmt 8.322 7.289 SM/day 8160 8160 **Utilization 60% 60% Actual SM/day 4896 4896 Difference = Production 588 gmt 671 gmt 83 gmt/day
3. At 70% Efficiency:
Assembly Type PBS Hanger System *SM/gmt 8.322 7.289 SM/day 8160 8160 **Utilization 70% 70% Actual SM/day 5712 5712 Difference = Production 686 gmt 783 gmt 97 gmt/day
3. At 80% Efficiency:
Assembly Type PBS Hanger System *SM/gmt 8.322 7.289 SM/day 8160 8160 Actual **Utilization SM/day 80% 6528 80% 6528 Difference = Production 784 gmt 895 gmt 111 gmt/day
SM/day= 480*(No. of Workstation= 17) *SM= Standard minute **Utilization of SM in assembly line
164
INCREASE IN PROFIT Profit/Garment= 5% Manufacturing Cost/gmt= Profit/Garment= In Euro 5.5 0.275 In INR 330 16.5
WORKFORCE REQUIREMENT Assembly Type Progressive Bundle System Hanger System Difference No. of Operator 17 17 0 No. of Helper 6 5 1
DECREASE IN LABOUR COST: Minimum Pay of Helper/month (In INR) = 2828 Minimum Pay of Helper/annum (In INR) = 33936 Total Decrease in labour Cost (In INR) = 33936
165
INSTALLATION COST- HANGER SYSTEM Setup Cost (In INR) Training Cost (In INR) Maintenance cost (In INR) Total Investment (In INR) = 125000 = 25000 = 10000 = 160000
166
INFERENCE
The handling time for hanger system is less than that of progressive bundle system. So for the same given standard minute, production of hanger system per day is more than that of progressive bundle system. The hanger system requires less helper for sorting, than progressive bundle system, thus it reduces the labour cost. As for hanger system, production per day is more, and requires less labour cost, thus it gives more profit than progressive bundle system. The installation cost is not much, so break even point can be achieved within 4 to 6 month.
167
CONCLUSION
The hanger system is more beneficial than progressive bundle system. It is more productive, and more profitable system. :
168
MODULE - 3
COMPARITIVE STUDY ON HANDLING TIME AND WORKING METHODS BASED ON TWO HAND PROCESS CHART
BY : SHWETA R. JOSHI
169
AIM / OBJECTIVE:
The aim is to conduct a method study to evaluate the movement of workers on the production floor and to devise a comparison between the two types of manufacturing systems, Hanger system and Manual system, applied in Mccoy 1 and Mccoy 3 respectively so as to conclude on which is the most effective system in terms handling time and method study.
METHODOLOGY: This study was conducted in various steps and involved observing and
recording of data.
To conduct these studies, the most basic and initial step was to identify
the operations that consisted of the assembly line.
It was necessary to identify the operations that were similar in both the
lines. When the operations were identified, the operations were noted and numbered which was used as a reference for the outline process chart which depicted the flow of operations and material of both the lines.
170
The working method of the operators at their respective work stations was recorded using left hand right hand chart which gives an opportunity to conduct a detailed study of the movement of hands during a whole operation. This was necessary as the comparative study conducted would be in terms of the time difference, in both the units having two different types of manufacturing system, due two different method of handling, stitching and disposing the main/sub component or the whole garment.
MATERIAL AND CHARTS USED : Time Study Chart for Conducting the time study.
Outline process chart.
Left Hand-Right Hand Chart used to observe and record the movement
details of the operators.
171
OUTLINE PROCESS CHART (MCCOY CLOTHING PVT. LTD.) In order to make an outline process chart for both the units the first step was to identify the operations, main and sub component feeding points and inspection points of their assembly line. The operations and inspection points were numbered, which could be used as a reference to make the outline process chart. A time study was carried out so that comparisons could be made between the systems as to how much time an operation takes and justify the difference between the operation time. Outline Process chart was followed by the left hand right hand chart to compare and justify the difference in operation time in terms of handling time and method study.
172
OPERATION NO. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
DESCRIPTION Attaching of front and back panels at shoulder Shoulder seam top stitch Patch label stitch Collar band attaching, size label insertion and collar band closing Sleeve attach to armhole Topstitch at sleeve armhole Inseam of sleeve and side seam - feed-off arm Inspection for inseam of sleeve and side seam Bottom hemming using folder Cuff attach to sleeve Inspection of cuff attachment Attaching of patch label on front panel
173
OPERATION NO.
10
AVG
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
1.07 0.58 1.18 1.04 0.54 1.05 1.09 1.32 1.80 1.13 0.21 0.23 0.19 0.17 0.18 0.24 0.46 0.19 0.23 0.22 0.17 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.19 0.22 0.19 0.17 0.21 0.23 1.32 1.29 1.04 1.21 1.23 1.55 1.22 1.28 1.22 1.24 1.28 1.30 1.21 1.06 1.15 1.12 1.09 1.11 1.11 1.07 0.52 1.08 0.57 0.41 0.40 0.44 0.45 0.58 0.52 0.43 0.38 0.29 0.33 0.37 0.38 0.34 0.39 0.31 0.32 0.33 INSPECTION - NO TIME
0.28 0.32 0.34 0.33 0.35 0.36 0.31 0.25 0.33 0.38 0.22 0.12 0.30 0.17 0.13 0.18 0.20 0.21 0.20 0.15 INSPECTION - NO TIME
0.33 0.19
11
174
REPEAT 2 TIMES
REPEAT 3 TIMES
REPEAT 3 TIMES
175
REPEAT 2 TIMES
10
11
176
OPERATION NO. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
DESCRIPTION Attaching of front and back panels at shoulder` Shoulder seam top stitch Inspection and feeding of sub component (collar) Collar band attaching Collar band closing Inspection of collar and feeding of sleeve component Sleeve notch matching and false sticth Sleeve attaching Topstitch at sleeve armhole Inseam of sleeve and side seam feed-off arm Cuff marking and feeding to line Cuff attach to sleeve Bottom hemming using folder Attaching of patch label on front panel
177
OPERATION NO. 1 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
10
0.54 1.04 1.09 0.54 0.47 1.07 1.04 0.59 1.02 1.07 0.18 0.15 0.24 0.25 0.24 0.28 0.28 0.24 0.23 0.24 INSPECTION - NO TIME 0.17 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.19 0.22 0.19 0.17 0.21 0.23 1.20 1.36 1.06 1.05 1.12 0.53 1.03 1.18 1.02 1.20 1.15 1.16 0.57 1.00 1.03 1.13 1.19 1.13 1.20 1.26 INSPECTION - NO TIME 0.28 0.22 0.20 0.23 0.25 0.25 0.24 0.25 0.25 0.20 1.28 1.31 1.20 1.37 1.16 1.15 1.07 1.15 1.09 1.22
0.24 1.2
0.18 0.13 0.13 0.14 0.19 0.15 0.15 0.16 0.18 0.19 1.03 1.04 1.10 0.53 1.01 0.45 1.04 1.05 0.57 1.11 INSPECTION - NO TIME
1.10 1.29 1.17 1.18 1.15 1.38 1.07 1.38 1.07 2.55 1.09 1.43 1.18 1.00 1.16 1.15 1.15 1.18 1.14 1.10
0.16 0.89
0.37
0.46
0.26
0.34
0.37
1.06
0.26
0.35
0.32
0.42
178
REPEAT 2 TIMES
SUB COMPONENT
REPEAT 2 TIMES
SUB COMPONENT
REPEAT 3 TIMES
REPEAT 2 TIMES
SUB COMPONENT
10
REPEAT 2 TIMES
11
SUB COMPONENT
12
REPEAT 3 TIMES
13
REPEAT 2 TIMES
14
181
182
COMPARITIVE STUDY OF THE HANGER SYSTEM AND THE PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM IN TERMS OF TIME & DIFFERENT METHODS OF HANDLING
DESCRIPTION FRNT & BCK SLEEVE ATTACH COLLAR ATTACH SLV INSEAM & SIDE SEAM BOTTOM HEM
As the table indicates, operations such as bottom hemming, sleeve inseam and side seam are carried out in lesser time in hanger system than compared to the manual system.
But it also indicates that some operations such as front and back attaching, take more time in hanger system than compared to the manual system.
This is due to the different method of handling required in both the system which also differs according to the operation being carried out as discussed in detail further.
Note : the time of cuff making cannot be compared since the style of mens shirt that was being manufactured in Mccoy 3 (manual system) was a half sleeve shirt and did not have cuffs.
183
Some operations require unloading of garment components from the hanger system. These operations are: front and back attach at shoulder, collar attaching and closing, shoulder topstitch, sleeve attached to armhole, topstitch at armhole and sleeve and cuff making. If any labels or patches are to be attached or stitched during assembly, they also have to be unloaded from the hanger. The garment and stitched parts have to be again loaded on to the hanger to send further into the assembly line According to the left-hand-right hand chart,-: In the hanger system, the main working of loading and unloading is done by the left hand, while In the manual system the work of picking up a piece and and putting it aside is done This is reduced in the progressive bundle system where time is not spent in loading and unloading. The time study indicates difference in time-: For attaching front and back at shoulder in hanger system = 1.08 For attaching front and back at shoulder in manual system = 0.85
Note: even though the hanger system increases the handling time it can not be considered as a drawback, because the hanger system immensely improves material flow, requires less no. of helpers to feed garment parts.
In some operations, it is not necessary to unload the garment form the hanger system. The garment can be pulled while it is still hanging on the system and brought to the machine. The operation can then be carried out and the hanger can be pushed forward. The operations that are carried out in such a manner are -: Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai 184
Hemming of Bottom of Shirts Attaching of Cuffs on sleeves Stitching of inseam of sleeve and side seam. According to the left-hand-right hand chart,-: In the hanger system, work is reduced since unloading and loading of garment is replaced by pulling and sliding. In the manual system the method of picking up the piece and putting it aisde is still followed, which comparatively takes more time. The time study indicates difference in time-: Bottom Hemming done in hanger system = 0.33 Bottom Hemming done in manual system = 1.36
185
CONCLUSION
From the time and method study the following conclusions can be made -: The feeding of the main and sub component to the hanger system was done only once at the starting of the assembly line of hanger system and the operators unload and load the pieces they require without any more helpers being involved. The hanger system reduces handling time. Though at some operations it was noticed that in hanger system it takes more time to be carried out, the time difference between the same operation being carried out in both system was on a very lesser margin.. For some operations, where the handling time was reduced due to the hanger system when compared with the operation time at the progressive bundle system, was at a greater margin. The hanger system also prevented bottlenecks to some extent, since any backlog in work by an operator was visible on the hanger system in terms of the number garments hanging on the hanger system and the supervisor could take necessary actions immediately. The total time of the Assembly Operations that have been studied for this project is - For Hanger System = 4.16 - For PBS = 6.46
This clearly indicates that the introduction o Hanger System in the first unit of Mccoy Clothing Pvt. Ltd. Has resulted in reduction of handling time of the assembly operations and therefore has increased productivity.
186
187
CONCLUSION PROJECT- I
188
CONCLUSION
Both the Progressive Bundle System and Hanger system have their own advantages and drawbacks. From our project on Comparative study of hanger system and progressive bundle system we can conclude that hanger system is more beneficial in overall performance and increases the productivity to a great extent. The result of the project can be summarized as :
Material flow Hanger system helps in better material flow. Hanger system minimizes chances of bottleneck creation. Increase productivity
Method study In hanger system two handed motion of the operators is constrained. In hanger system material handling time increase for some operations and decreases for some as compared to PBS. Overall handling time for the assembly section decreases thus increasing productivity.
Production Production of hanger system is more as compare to PBS due to decrease in production time. The increase in production due to decrease in handling time results in production cost saving. No. of helpers required is less for hanger system. Low installation cost of hanger system The reduction cost in labour and production cost can account for achievement of break even point for the installation of hanger system.
189
PROJECT - 2
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INTRODUCTION The benefits of lean manufacturing are evident in factories across the world. With a view to achieve performance improvement both the developed and developing countries are practicing lean. In this project production of one style each of garments is studied for Progressive bundle system and Hanger system. All the methods, time, labor etc. is studied. The flaws in both the system are recorded and then a new model for production is suggested for production by lean manufacturing. Manufacturers are now a days facing intensive global competition. They are becoming increasingly aware of the importance of modern management philosophy in providing them with a competitive advantage in a free market system. As stated by Mannan and Ferdousi (2007, p.2) Now the key to competing in the international market place is to simultaneously improve both quality and productivity on continual basis. In todays competitive and changing business world, lean production philosophy has brought changes in management practices to improve customer satisfaction as well as organizational effectiveness and efficiency. Firms are now more concerned about customer satisfaction because they have now more options than before. Customers are now demanding a wide variety of products at a lower cost but with fast delivery. They also expect more innovative products at a competitive price as customers have more opportunities to choose from a variety of options. The major purposes of the use of lean production are to increase productivity, improve product quality and manufacturing cycle time, reduce inventory, reduce lead time and eliminate manufacturing waste. To achieve these, the lean production philosophy uses several concepts such as one-piece flow, kaizen, cellular manufacturing, synchronous manufacturing, inventory management, pokayoke, standardized work, work place organization, and scrap reduction to reduce manufacturing waste. In lean production systems attempts are made to eliminate waste through continuous improvement of processes of the entire value chain in the organization. Having nurtured a lean manufacturing mindset among the employees, it facilitates achievement of continuous product flow through physical rearrangement and control mechanisms.
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Lean is a team based approach to identify and eliminate waste through continuous improvement. Any activity that adds cost or time without value to the service we offer to our customers is called waste . There are seven kinds of deadly waste.
Transportation (moving products that is not actually required to perform the processing) Inventory (all components, work-in-progress and finished product not being processed) Motion (people or equipment moving or walking more than is required to perform the processing) Waiting (waiting for the next production step) Overproduction (production ahead of demand) Over Processing (due to poor tool or product design creating activity) Defects (the effort involved in inspecting for and fixing defects)
Lean is about doing more with less resources. The resources means - Time - Inventory - Space - People and - Money
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Lean is about speed and getting it right the first time with better quality. Benefits: Less no. of operators Controlling is easy Less no of defects Defect is Detectable easily Efficiency is better Utilization of Space Inventory Reduction Waste reduction On time delivery Quality products Customer satisfaction Productivity improvement Reasons to implement lean: Desire to minimize costs by reducing inventory Intention to satisfy customers Encouragement of foreign buyers to introduce lean for cutting costs of production motivation from promoters/employees improving the current condition searching for best practicesDesire to minimize costs by reducing inventory Intention to satisfy customers Encouragement of foreign buyers to introduce lean for cutting costs of production motivation from promoters/employees improving the current condition searching for best practices
LITERATURE REVIEW
Businesses all over the world are now facing fierce competition because of liberalization of trade and globalization. Foreign competition has penetrated into almost all the industries, both in the production and service sectors. There prevails a view that organizations in Europe, Japan and the several developing countries are seizing the initiative in a dozen key technologies, including factory, automation, consumer electronics, microchips and aerospace. Many countries are emerging as strong competitors and challenges for those who have already been industrially developed Lean Production was introduced by a book titled The Machine That Changed The World written by Womack et al.,(Piciacchia, 2003). The idea of lean thinking comprises complex cocktail of ideas including continuous improvements, flattened organization structures, team work, elimination of waste, efficient use of resources and cooperative supply chain management (Green, 2000, p.524). This is a Japanese concept applied in manufacturing firms. The Japanese firms (firms in other countries as well) have been using this concept to reduce the cost of any process (be it service or manufacturing) by removing waste. The basic elements of the concept include waste elimination, continuous one piece workflow (EPA, 2003). As stated by Kilpatrick (2003), lean makes an organization more responsive to market trends, deliver products and services faster and produces products and services less expensively than non-lean organization. As viewed by Womack and Jones (1994), firms in several industries in North America, Europe and Japan followed this path and doubled their performance through reduction of inventories, throughout times and errors. Lean manufacturing requires that not only should technical questions be fully understood, but existing relationships between manufacturing and the other areas of the firm should also be examined in depth, as should other factors external to the firm (Womack and Jones, 1994). As an integrative concept, the adoption of lean manufacturing can be characterized by a collective set of key areas or factors. These key areas encompass a broad array of practices which are believed to be critical for its implementation. They are, scheduling, inventory, material handling, equipment, work processes, quality, employees, layout, suppliers, customers, safety and ergonomics, product design, management and culture, and tools and techniques (Wong et al., 2009).
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Keywords: These 14 areas are the subjects of investigation in this study and each of them will be reviewed and described now. Scheduling has been widely discussed in lean manufacturing (Sohal and Egglestone, 1994; Harrison and Storey, 1996; Karlsson and hlstrm, 1996). Effective schedules improve the ability to meet customer orders, drive down inventories by allowing smaller lot sizes, and reduce work in processes (Heizer and Render, 2006). Appropriate scheduling methods are able to optimize the use of resources. Pull methods such as Kanban, and lot size reduction are commonly used to reduce storage and inventories and to avoid overproduction. Pull means to do nothing until it is required by the 523 Yu Cheng Wong, Kuan Yew Wong and Anwar Ali downstream process (Poppendieck, 2002). Minimizing lot sizes enables a smoother production flow and maximizes productivity by eliminating production line imbalances. Companies store inventories to enable continuous deliveries and overcome problems such as demand variabilities, unreliable deliveries from suppliers, and breakdowns in production processes. However, there is a need to maintain inventories at the minimum level because excess inventories would require more valuable spaces and result in higher carrying costs. Moreover, they accumulate the risk of products becoming obsolete. Excess inventories are seen as evils because th ey hide problems such as defects, production imbalances, late deliveries from suppliers, equipment downtime and long setup time (Liker, 2004). Material handling is also crucial in lean manufacturing because the cost attributed to material handling is estimated between 15% and 70% of the total manufacturing operation expenses (Tompkins et al., 1996). Karlsson and hlstrm (1996), and Snchez and Prez (2001) stated that transporting parts not only does not add value to a product, it increases manufacturing lead time. Hence, it is a major waste that needs to be eliminated. A steady material flow which moves frequently in small batches will allow a faster replenishment of materials. This will then shorten lead time and increase productivity. The level of equipment support should be given attention in lean manufacturing (Mortimer, 2006) because some manufacturing processes rely heavily on their equipment to produce products. Unexpected machine downtime would result in line stoppage and decrease productivity. Therefore, equipment is a vital area in which maintenance and reduction of setup time play an important role to avoid process disturbance (Taj, Internship at Mccoy Clothing, Chennai 195
2005; Shah and Ward, 2007). Lean manufacturing requires machines which are reliable and efficient. Inventories can be reduced when machine downtime is minimized. Work processes across the value stream should also be emphasized in lean manufacturing. Processes should be performed with a minimum of non value added activities in order to reduce waiting time, queuing time, moving time, and other delays (Pattanaik and Sharma, 2009). Besides this, standardization of work processes is needed to facilitate efficient, safe work methods and eliminate wastes, while maintaining quality (Kasul and Motwani, 1997). It ensures a consistent performance and creates a foundation for continuous improvement. Nowadays, a product with high quality is a prerequisite for any manufacturer. Quality is a major focus in lean manufacturing (Forza, 1996; Shah and Ward, 2003; Taj, 2005) because poor quality management would result in many wastes such as scraps and rejects. Appropriate quality management helps to control a manufacturing process, and this reduces safety buffers and exposes quality issues (Nakamura et al., 1998). Reduction of safety buffers will eventually lead to reductionof inventories. Employees who are motivated and empowered are essential since people are the key element in lean manufacturing. Japanese regard people as assets (Sharp et al., 1999) because they are the ones who are going to solve problems and improve processes in production. The phrase No one knows the job better than those who do it indicates that the person who is experienced in his/her job is most likely to have a better understanding on it. Task rotation creates crosstrained and multi-tasked employees, and this enables them to respond faster to changes in products and processes. In addition, work teams are critical throughout the implementation of lean manufacturing (hlstrm, 1998). It is said that work teams are the heart of a lean manufacturing company (Womack et al., 1990). Another key area of lean manufacturing is layout which determines the arrangement of facilities in a factory. A poor layout may have several deteriorating effects such as high material handling costs, excessive work-inprocess inventories, and low or unbalanced equipment utilization (Heragu, 1997). Layouts that cause inventory accumulation and interrupt process flow should be eliminated. On the other hand, lean manufacturing needs flexible layouts that reduce movements of both materials and people, minimize material handling losses, and avoid inventories between stations. Lean manufacturing is particularly vulnerable not only to internal sources of variability, but
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also to external resources (Davis, 1993). Suppliers have been reported as a critical factor for the success of lean manufacturing (Keller et al., 1991) and they have been given much attention by various Relationship with customers is also crucial in lean manufacturing (Doolen and Hacker, 2005; Shah and Ward, 2007). Customers decide what to buy, and when and how they are going to purchase a product. Since value is determined by the customers, it is essential to develop a good relationship with them. Setting up good relationships with customers will enable an organization to understand and meet their needs and predict their demands accurately, as it is important to attain a perfect match between market demands and production flows (Panizzolo, 1998). Safety and ergonomics are incorporated as an area in lean manufacturing. Safety should be emphasized since it is the foundation of all activities. Ergonomics is also important because it helps humans to improve productivity, reduce injuries and fatigues (Walder et al., 2007). By using ergonomic features, unnecessary motions (one of the major wastes) are decreased. This helps to reduce mistakes caused by human errors, thus enhancing the quality of products. Essentially, management and culture are considered as a key area. It is critical for top management to understand and give ample support to sustain the lean concept. Communication between senior managers and employees is critical to ensure that the vision and mission of lean manufacturing is attainable. Evidence shows that management support plays a vital role in driving lean manufacturing implementation (Worley and Doolen, 2006). Recognition and rewards from top management will serve as a booster for participation and continuous improvement. In addition, culture is the main pillar when implementing lean manufacturing (Little and McKinna, 2005). A supportive culture that brings the employees to work, communicate and grow together is essential to make the initiative successful.
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Finally, tools and techniques are indispensable in implementing lean manufacturing. Lean tools that are systematically applied or implemented can help to define, analyze and attack sources of waste in specific ways. There are many excellent tools that are useful in different circumstances. Using tools such as value stream mapping, jidoka, 5S, kanban etc, will assist organizations to go along with lean manufacturing transformation. Lean tools are urged to be used in an integrated way (Cua et al., 2001; Liker, 2004; White and Prybutok, 2001) rather than applying them in isolation.
SOME CASE STUDIES: According to Alukal and Manons (2002), a planned implementation of lean production system leads to improved quality, better cash flow, increased sales, better productivity, improved morale and higher profits. They further reported that companies earned greater benefits by implementing lean techniques in the office functions in non-manufacturing organizations too, such as banks, hospitals, restaurants etc. A study on a Novartis International AG A Switzerland-based company (Society of Manufacturing Engineers, 2002) reviewed their production process and realized the need for some improvement. They introduced lean picking system for the movement of the goods from the warehouse to the packing lines. This redesigned material supply is a kind of Kanban system. Through this picking system the company reduced its waste to a good extent. By using this system they were benefited in terms of waste elimination from the redesigned material supply process. The study was anticipated that this lean picking system would facilitate faster picking lines as well as would shorter the run times. There are studies that have been undertaken bearing upon the relationship between lean practices and manufacturing performance of the firms (Papadopoulo and Ozbayrak, 2005; Bonavia, 2006; Simpson et al., 1998, EPA, 2003; Oliver et al., 1993) and also have showed the improvement in manufacturing through lean practice. Chihuahua (Society of Manufacturing Engineers, 2007), the producer of world class power and signal distribution system of Mexico, reviewed its existing manufacturing system and identified the need for improvements. The company introduced lean with a view to improve the current performance. It is documented from the study that implementation of lean brought 34% reduction in inventory over a 12 months period and 93.5% uptime. The study showed that the keys to achieving quality in manufacturing include the flexibility of the production system, and involvement and commitment of employees.
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As stated by Narain and Yadav (2004), Since the advent of economic liberalization in the early nineties the manufacturing scene in India has witnessed major upheavals. Reeling under the heavy burden of stiff international competition, Indian manufacturers throughout the country has now begun to place grater reliance on their own strengths to harness the latest technologies available, and to pursue the best management practices followed elsewhere in the world in an attempt to become lean and agile. The several sectors of India were and are still facing relentless pressure on prices as a result of heightened competition. In this crisis situation Indian firms have achieved positive results through lean manufacturing. In India, three case studies indicate that lean manufacturing practices helped the companies (in the engineering products industry) achieve improvements to a significant extent, in such areas as turnover (36%-50%), production setup time (74%), machine down time (60%-100%), production space (17%-45%), delivery against schedule (21%), product rejection by customers (50%), productivity awareness (increased dramatically), quality awareness increased steadily, scrap reduction (75%), increase of workforce flexibility (57%-100%), and taff motivation improved significantly (1000-Venture, 2007). Another case study was conducted by Simpson et al. (1998) on a Malaysian automobile company, Proton, to develop an understanding of a Malaysian version of JIT. Proton is the largest and modern automobile manufacturer of South East Asia. The company use robots and automation in production processes. It introduced Kanban - various types of containers for holding components or movement of components. It also introduced several supporting mechanisms to complement the use of JIT system and organized training program for the employees. All these reduced work in progress from three months to one month of supply, 50% of space required and brought improvement in inventory turns from 15 to 31. Although several constraints had been aced, the study showed the success of the company with many benefits. The pressure placed on firms in the garment industry from international competition and dynamic changes in the retail sector have been enormous. The increase in competition has led to an increased focus on customer satisfaction as a survival of the company in the long run (Kapuge and Smith, 2007, p.304). In todays competitive business world, firms are fighting against each other just to ensure their survival. In this highly competitive business market, the garment industry is also searching for ways and techniques to cut cost and improve performance. When other industries are facing high pressure from competitors, the garment industry is also facing challenges such as- price, delivery time and service offered etc. This industry has opportunities to improve, but requires some changes. Under the highly competitive environment, the garment industry has numerous opportunities for improvement using lean principles (Mercado, 2007).
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Through the implementation of lean the garment sector can reduce costs, as well as increase customer responsiveness through reducing several types of waste from the production process. Customers demand quality products and on-time delivery. Lean practices can fulfill these requirements by reducing lead-time as well as manufacturing cycle time. Now, many countries have started to practice lean tools in the garment industry and observed tremendous improvement (Mazany, 1995; Bruce et.al; 2004). This practice has improved their productivity, quality and lead-time and also made their customer more responsive. In addition to this lean production involves, motivates and develop employee skills through education and multi-skilling program (Mazany, 1995).
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Key areas of lean manufacturing namely, scheduling, inventory, material handling, equipment, work processes, quality, employees, layout, suppliers, customers, safety and ergonomics, product design, management and culture, and tools and techniques.
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Hence we decided to reduce the over production percentage by implementing lean manufacturing technique from 5% to 3% in next order for the same style.
2. PROCESS WASTE
Production defects and service errors waste resources in four ways. First, materials are consumed. Second, the labor used to produce the part (or provide the service) the first time cannot be recovered. Third, labor is required to rework the product (or redo the service). Fourth, labor is required to address any forthcoming customer complaints.
Instead of checking the defects at final stage, it is essential that while sewing itself operator has to be taught and trained to stitch properly. We can implement traffic light system to control repairs and defects inside the sewing floor. 3. WAITING TIME
This includes waiting for bundle, accessories like label, thread, information, equipment, tools, etc. lean demands that for different reasons. The reasons vary with respect to operation and the style. But the most common reason, the most of the operators are waiting due to machine break down and needle breakages.
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Time wasted by the individual for a day =3 min Time wasted by 186 persons for a day =558 min Total quantity that should be produced in 558 min 246pcs. in a week = 246 * 6 = 1476pieces Pieces reduced due to waiting time =1476pieces /week Productivity loss due to waiting time = 11.32%
At the end, the defects found during final inspection are given below. FINAL INSPECTION REPORT: For Style no. 2460, In every hundred pcs 9 pcs found defective on an average. Thus in 7489 pcs,
Total defects = 674pieces Defect % =674/7489= 9% It shows that out of 100 pieces 9 pieces are with different defects and 91 pieces are good pieces.
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UNNECESSARY MOVEMENTS
I. UNNECESSARY MOVEMENT IN MATERIAL HANDLING
In this factory, usually, the cut parts are transferred from second floor to first floor. Thus most of the time is wasted from first taking fabric to the second floor then, after cutting is done, bringing the fabric back to first floor, instead of cutting fabric on the ground floor only.
We found that on the production floor if anyone, the supervisor or the operator, finds any minor & mend able defect in a piece of garment then it is marked and kept in the same basket with the good one. It may be possible that some of the pieces are left in confusion or carelessness and mix with the good one causing rework at the inspection table. This sometimes leads for the rework pieces enter the packing section without any rework. So, we can put the rework pieces and the good pieces in separate places to avoid Confusion with the clearly different colored baskets.
It will improve quality and save unnecessary time wasted in inspection. III. UNNECESSARY MOVEMENT AT PACKING
In packing department , all the packers are standing around the same table and put all the sizes in the same crates,thus the different size ranges are mixed up and it takes lot of time to arrange it while putting into the final carton boxes. So we suggested them to put the finished goods in the basket according to the size ranges. It helped them to pack easily as per the size wise and to have clear account of the size wise and color wise breakup ratios.
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4. 5s HOUSE KEEPING
The 5s practice is a house keeping technique used to establish and maintain a and productive quality environment in an organization. A well-organized work place results in a safer, more efficient and more productive operation. Its boots the morale of the workers, promoting a sense of pride in their work and ownership of their responsibilities. 5s was invented in Japan. It stands for five Japanese words that start with the letter S SEIRI, SEITON, SEISO, and SEIKETSU. And SJITSUKE.
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This is the visual technique used to control the repairs while sewing the product. three cards like the traffic signal light (Red, yellow, Green) are given to the operator according to their performance . The red card is given for those, who are identified by the quality control supervisors to produce one or more defective items out of ten pieces inspected. The yellow card is given to those who are identified by the quality control supervisors to produce two or more minor defects out of ten inspected. The green card is given if no reworks are found. There by we can motivate the workers to produce good quality products.
This card is given by the quality controller when he comes for every round for inline inspection.
It is also noted that when needle is broken, the workers have to go to the ground floor to get the new one. Most of the time is wasted due to this. So we suggested a red flag system. A red colored flag is made and placed in the sewing floor. If the operator has machine problem, he has to place the red flag on the top of the machine. So that it is visible, when seen on any corner of the sewing floor. The workers are waiting for the machine repair and so the time is wasted. So we suggested red flag system for the easy identification by the mechanic and thus the waiting time is saved
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QUALITY ASSURANCE
One of the benefit that we get in lean manufacturing is that the quality level is improved. There is no need of extra workforce for maintaining the quality. Implementation of some certain things in the factory will itself improve the quality. Major and frequently occurring Defects 1. 2. 3. Stitching Defect Broken Stitch Dropped Stitch Exposed Notches Exposed Raw Edges Open Seams Needle Cut Labelling & Lining Thread matching Fabric Defect Fabric defects Different shades with same garments Holes Stairs Fastening Defects Boken buttons Defective snaps Miss aligning button & buttonholes Inoperative or defective zippers Missing Buttons Unfinished Buttonhole Zippers too short Broken snaps
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SUGGESTIONS
Working as a team & distributing this time to reduce waiting. Observation of idle time & distributing this time to reduce waiting Reduce accumulation of parts at one operator. If a worker runs out of work there should be always a fixed alternative option. If cant stop accumulation or dont have any alternative option then stop the work from the initial point & some of the operators can help cleaning WIP & at iron table or as a trimmer/helper. There should be Quality checkpoints or wherever possible the operator should himself check for any defect in that particular part. If defects are coming frequently then operator should be pointed out by particular part. The operator should try to improve, if it does not stop check for machine problem or shift him/her to another operation. No matter what the material flow should be maintained.Patrol inspection
Stain Marks Fall of garment on the floor(should be handled properly) Cylindrical bed during sleeve hem operation. Garments exposed to the underbed of the machine (garment are kept on the lap, thus get stained by the underbed of the machine.) Machine Threading (should be clean hans after threading) Mat flooring possible suggestion
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CONCLUSION
As now, it is very clear that the implementation of slightest of Lean strategies can get one a reasonable amount of improvement. It is very clear from the above calculations that the implementation of simplest of Lean can improve the production of the above observed units by 9% and 8% respectively. In the current situation of high competition and global marketing it is very important for the manufacturers to adopt different types of latest manufacturing techniques and tools, & as well as stay updated to be a part of the race.
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ANNEXURES
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