TIP PAGE 1

TIP PAGE 2

TIP 1:

Use the spring from a ball-point pencil and cut

this spring in 4 equal small pieces with 2 or 3
windings.
Place the springs between the brake pads on the
mounting screw.
This prevents the brake disks from dragging when
in neutral or full power position of the throttle
servo.

TIP 2:

Make from a piece that is left over from your

lexan body a sheet that will be placed next to the
fueltank and covering the front brake disk.. So
when fuel is spilt during quick pits-stops, the
brake disks and pads stay clean and brake fading
is prevented.

TIP 3:
! Never ! use thread lock on:
* the screws that fix the coolinghead of the engine or any other screws from the engine itself!
* small hexagon (allenhead) set-screws where you have to use 1.5 m/m to 2.0 m/m L-shape hexagon tools!
* the four aluminum wheel nuts!
* aluminum to aluminum or aluminum to steel parts or connections

TIP 4:
Use thread lock on every other metal to metal connection.
"screw lock" for easy binding normally colored RED
"nut lock" for normal binding normally colored BLUE
"stud lock" for heavy binding normally colored GREEN. !Use this only on drive joints and drive universal
hexagon screws!
Colors may vary from brand to brand and type!

TIP 5:
If you want to loosen a thread lock fitted connection specially when "stud lock" is applied, use a small
heating tool (watch the plastic). When the metal parts are warm the thread lock will become weakened and
the screws will come loose easily.

TIP 6:

To prevent metal to metal wear you can use a special purpose grease.
This MoS² (Molibdeen Sulfide) grease is specially designed to reduce wear on metal
surfaces and gives a good lubrication.
You can use it on universals, pignon/crown gear and main/clutch gear combinations.
The grease is produced by OKS in Germany and is called "OKS 220" for a small 50
gram tube or
as "OKS 221" for an 400 ml spraycan.
Although the grease is black it does not contain carbon particles, like some Molykote
products!
This grease is race proven and is available by the OKS distributor in your local
country.
For an address in your country please look at the OKS site.

TIP 7:
The break-inn period is 80% the key for a good running engine and a long lifetime. Try to stay below all
maximum settings of the engine performance. If you are just running your car for fun, then be sure that the
engine is running always at a rich setting. Try to warm up the engine for 2 minutes minimum by running
the car at medium speed (rpm's) before asking the maximum power from your engine.

TIP 8:
When your engine was running fine before and it does not want to start, then this is the golden rule. Open
the throttle fully. Start the engine without connecting a glowplug ignitor. Lift the car and then close the
throttle. Now put the glow igniter on and the engine should start, easily. If not, check for fuel, defective
glow-plug or whatever. But do not directly change the needle settings. Only minor changes (all within a 1/2
turn) could be needed if the external circumstances are changed. A good running engine, does not need
frequent needle changes.

TIP 9:
Always check the engine temperature frequently, by putting some spit on your finger and then on the
cooling head. If it does not evaporate the engine temperature is below 100 °C. You may close the high
speed needle a little if required. If it stays for 3 to 4 seconds the temperature is OK. If it evaporate direct,
then open the high speed needle until the temperature goes down. An engine temperature system is a nice
feature and can prevent premature engine failure due to overheating.

TIP 10:
After using your engine these are the things to do:
Remove all fuel in the engine and carburator by taking off the fuel line and let the engine run until it stops.
Then put some after run oil in the engine and run the motor for 3 seconds on the starter box so the oil is
spread inside the engine well. This will prevent rust building up inside the engine if not used for a long
period.

TIP 11:

Cover the underside of your chassis with 3M all

weather auto adhesive vinyl, this not only
protects your chassis from scratches (some of
them) but help you keep loose screws in place.
The price in Singapore for a yard of the adhesive
is U$ 10 in a variety of colors. Can be removed
easily when destroyed.

Tip by Felipe Ordonez from Signapore

TIP 12:

For those people who are

receiving a lot of cd's without
use do not throw them away
but recycle!
Glue 4 of them together. And
use them as camber/caster
disks for measuring.

TIP 13:
 Never, never use the switch harness that comes
with the radio control equipment. The best way
to supply power to the receiver and servos is to
use no switch at all. Races haven proven that
they can have a defect after a while. Even
switches with rubber covers are not advisable.
From race experience in Holland and France the
Multiplex battery connecters as shown at the left
are a good choice for power connection instead
of a switch. The contacts are well covered and
the leads and connector housings are heavy duty.
For switching on the receiver just connect the
connectors and the other way around. This also
eases up the way of charging the battery pack as
the charging cable can be connected direct to the
battery pack.

TIP 14:

Tip by
Jason
Fritton
I came
up with a
simple
way of
mountin
ga
return
spring
on a
Nova
Rossi
type
engine.
It uses a
Losi
GTX/N
XT
return
spring
kit and
you have
to flip
the carb
fixing
assembly
around
the other
way. I
have
also cut
the
 spring
and
stretched
it a little
to make
the
tension
just
right.

TIP 15:

For Kyosho drivers this is an

important tip!
The pins that are securing the
lower connection points of the
shock absorbers in the
suspension arms are coming
out slowly and might be lost
during racing!.

To prevent this, mark the place

where the small
hexagon set screw touches the
pin. Use a
Dremel tool to grind a flat spot
at the marked
point on this pin. When
replaced and the set screw
secured the pin can not rotate
any more and this
prevents the pin from coming
out. Make a small
slit in the head of the pin to
mark that the flat spot is
horizontal. Put the screws in
from the bottom of the
suspension arm instead of the
top, this makes replacing or
unscrewing more easy.

TIP 16:
 For almost every buggy engine used these days, it
is best to engage a little later, because of the
higher rev's these engines can produce. This will
give more bottom power. Modify the shoes as
showed below by try and error method. Original
Serpent shoes need maximum one hole as they
are already lightened from the factory. Mugen
and Kyosho need to be modified with one or two
holes depending of the weight and engine
performance. There for if the clutch shoes are too
heavy just drill one or two small holes with a +/-
3 m/m diameter at the end of each shoe (see the
marked spots). This will make them lighter and
the clutch will engage later.

info taken from the clutch page

TIP 17:

Never remove the flywheel by

slamming with a object on the rear of
the flywheel. This will cause puts in the main
bearingseatings and cause premature main
bearing failure. The right way to remove the
flywheel is to place the rear of the flywheel on a
solid object and placing a piece of wood or nylon
on top of the cranckshaft. Then you may hit the
wood or nylon without damaging the bearings. Or
use a special pulley-puller tool as shown in the
picture to pull off the flywheel from the cranck-
shaft. Cost +/- 3.00 $. Thanks to Ruenjo Lu for
sending the picture of this car battery terminal
remove tool.

TIP 18:

For those who do not like to replace their Mugen MBX-4

shock absorber caps often because of the metal to metal
connection causing play, this mod will save you money!
Remove the aluminum spacer and put the ball only on the
screw instead, with the flat surface to the shock tower. Fit
a piece of silicone tube of 6 m/m long and a diameter of 2
x 6 m/m inside the shockcap eye without play and secure
both ends with a thin 3 m/m washer. I use BLUELINE
silicone fuel tube but every other will do too. Put a drop
of silicone oil on the outside of the tube to make it rotate
smoother. Works on front and rear. Also works on
Kyosho shocks but you need to use slightly smaller
silicone tube.
 Replace the silicone tube every race to be sure it is not
broken due to the pressure.

Prepare some spare silicone bushings incase of a broken

one.
They are replaced in 10 seconds!
Teflon or plastic bushings can be used too, but need to be
custom-made.

Costs nearly nothing on year base!

Paco Raap

TIP 19:

This simple
tip is from
Cliff
Hudson
from U.S.A.
for the
Mugen
MBX-
4(RR).
A original
rear brace
for the
Mugen
MBX-
4(RR) cost
you about
30 $, but
you can
make a
stiffer one
for only 7 $.
Use the
battery
brace from
Associated
B3, the
large hole
needs to be
drilled out
and use a
motor post
extension
from the
Losi NXT
kit as a
bushing,
this end
connects on
top of the
center diff
brace,
remove one
of the pan
head screws
and replace
with long
hex bolt
removed
from
existing
brace. The
other end,
just cut to
length,
drilled a
hole through
it and bolted
it with
existing rear
brace bolt at
mount on
rear
tower.....
you want
believe how
much stiffer
this made
the chassis.
 The custom
made
Associated
B3 battery
brace
modified to
be used with
the Mugen
MBX-
4(RR).

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TIP PAGE 1

TIP 20:

Tip by Tarimon
Do you know the problem to adjust the carb on a Novarossi or R&B engine in a Kyosho MP-5 or
6? Normally it is hardly not possible to reach the lower speed setting screw on the carb, because
of the radiobox. So i drilled a hole in each side of the radiobox in the right height of the screw. In
order to make the box water-resistant again I glued a piece of a pen-cover between the two holes
in the box. Now it's one of the easiest things to reach the screw of the carb! The rest you can
see on the pictures.

TIP 21:

To prevent the hingpin from rotating mount a 3 m/m set screw as the picture shows.
The example is a aluminum rear hingpin holder of Thunder Tiger EB4-LE.
But all aluminum ones can be done like this as long as the thickness is enough to fit the
3 m/m set screw.
TIP 22:

Most people snap the steering knuckles from

disassembling them too many times for
maintenance. Here is a good way of cleaning the
bearings of the knuckle without unscrewing it
from the rest of the suspension arm. Slowly file
the outside housing of the knuckle enough so the
ball bearing can be removed by just tapping it.
That way you can remove the outside bearing
without disassembling anything.
Take the inside bearing and remove the seal on
the end that meets with the outside bearing of the
knuckle .NOT the end that is exposed to dirt.
Then put it back. That way when you remove the
outside bearing you can see the inside bearing
and wash it with alcohol (since you removed the
seal) and all dirt goes away. Re lube

TIP PAGE 1