FREE CHICKEN COOP PLANS

This is a free guide on how to build a chicken coop using cheap and/or free
materials. The kind of coop we will be talking about is the basic a-frame
chicken coop – the type you would build for your backyard to keep 5 or so
birds.

Chicken Coop Materials

A) Frame uprights (8) 70 x 35 x 1220mmTreated pine

B) Narrow ties (4) 70 x 22 x 635mm Treated pine decking 81 Wide ties (2)
90 x 22 x 635mm Treated pine decking
C) End panels (2) 635 x 628 x 4mm Bracing ply
D) Gussets (2) 310 x 263 x 4mm Bracing ply
E) Ridge 90 x 22 x 1800mm Treated pine decking
F) Bottom plates (2) 90 x 45 x 1800mm Treated pine
G) Side rails (4) 70 x 22 x 422mm Treated pine decking
H) Back panel 1800 x 616 x 4mm Bracing ply
I) Handles (2) 90 x 45 x 2400mm Treated pine
J) Box slats (12) 90 x 22 x 330mm Treated pine decking
K) Back panel support 70 x 22 x 1000mm Treated pine decking
L) Bottom end rails (2) 90 x 45 x 1100mm Treated pine
M) Small door stiles (2) 42 x 18 x 515mm LOSP pine
N) Small door rails (2) 42 x 18 x 296mm LOSP pine
O) Small door panel 515 x 380 x 4mm Bracing ply
P) Large door stiles (2) 42 x 18 x 515mm LOSP pine
Q) Large door rails (2) 42 x 18 x 946mm LOSP pine
R) Large door mullion 42 x 18 x 431 mm LOSP pine
S) Large door panel 1030 x 515 x 4mm Bracing ply
T) Bottom stiles (2) 42 x 18 x 500mm LOSP pine
U) Bottom door rail (2) 42 x 18 x 296mm LOSP pine
V) Hinge blocks (6) 40 x 19 x 90mm LOSP pine
W)Small end rails (2) 70 x45x481mmTreated pine
 X) Perch (not shown) 90 x 22 x 1115mmTreated pine decking

You'll also need 10m x 1200mm of galvanised 25 x 25 x 1.25mm welded

mesh; galvanised staples or U nails; 2 x T-hinges; 6 x 50mm strap hinges; 4
latches; feeder, water dispenser, paint.

Step 1

Cut one end of both of the main framing uprights at a 65 degree angle. To do
this, use a protractor to set a sliding bevel to exactly 65 degrees. Mark the
angle. Measure 1192mm along the timber, mark the same 65 degrees angle
with the bevel and cut to length. Measure 25mm across the top bevel of each
upright, square a line down from this point to form a right angle and then cut
off the triangular section.

Step 2

Screw together pairs of uprights to form A-frames. Cut both ends of the
narrow and wide ties (B, B1) at an angle of 65 degrees. Mark 499mm from
the bottom of each upright and screw 2 narrow ties to 2 of the frames and the
2 wide ties to the other 2 frames with the bottom edge of the ties on the
marks. Screw the remaining narrow ties to the back of the 2 frames with the
wide ties.

Step 3

Use the A-frames as a template to mark out the end panels (C) and cut with a
panel saw. Unscrew the narrow ties, and nail on the plywood with flat head
nails. Replace the ties again and nail panel into the tie. Similarly, cut the
gussets (D) for the internal frames and nail on.

Step 4

Screw the top ridge (E) to the end frames, with the back edge 5mm proud of
the top of the frame and overhanging on the door side. The plywood end
panels face inward. Measure 400mm from the end and screw on the
intermediate A-frames with the plywood gussets facing towards the ends and
the inside edge of the frames on the mark. Screw the outer A-frames to the
bottom plates (F), then measure 400mm from ends to locate the intermediate
frames.

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Step 5

Fix the side rails (G) to the A-frames, screwing them at the same height as
the ties in the A-frame. Nail the back panel (H) to the frame, then add the two
handles (I) to either side.

Step 6

Turn the unit on its side and add the brooding box slats (J), screwing them on
from the underside and spacing them equally between the sides. The gaps
between the slats allow air to circulate. While tipped over, add the back panel
support batten (K) under the ridge and nail the back panel to it. Cut the
bottom rails (L) with a 65 degree angle at each end and screw to the bottom
plates and end A-frames.

Step 7

To retrieve the eggs, you'll need doors. Screw the small door stiles (M) to the
rails (N) using simple butt joints and screws, then nail on the small door panel
(O. If you do not have short nails simply nip the ends off 30mm galvanised
flat-head nails. Repeat for the other small door and the large door (F Q, R, S).
The bottom door (T, U) is made in the same way but covered with chicken
wire not plywood. Fit the doors with the strap hinges, using hinge blocks (V)
on the upper doors to give them clearance. When everything fits, remove the
hinges. Cut the small end rails (W) and screw in place. Add a perch (X)
screwed to the underside of the box slats.

Step 8

Paint all the woodwork with two coats of exterior acrylic paint. We chose
Dulux Pesto for the frame and Salvia for the panels. When dry, refit the doors
with the hinges.

Step 9

Cut the mesh to size with snips to suit each section and with enough extra all
round to allow the wire to be stapled to the frame. Use galvanised staples or
U nails to hold the wire mesh in place. When starting them off, try holding the
staples with long-nosed pliers rather than your fingers.

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Step 10

At the sides remove the side rails and fix the wire underneath before refitting
the rails over the top. Fold and nail the wire to the underside of the handles.
At the ends remove the bottom rail and nail the wire to the inside edge of the
bottom rail, then screw the bottom rail back in place and nail the wire to the
rest of the frame. Fit basic catches to the doors to secure them at night.

Now you have a chookhouse, you want to know what chickens to buy, where
to buy them and how to keep them.

For eggs within a week or so then purchase point-of-lay pullets that are about
six months old. Avoid buying chicks - they may grow up to be roosters.
Pullets cost about $20 each and lay between 180 and 250 eggs a year.

When you get your hens home, keep them in the coop for a week to get them
used to their new home. Then let them range, but make sure your garden is
bait free.

In the hens' brooding boxes, lay carpet offcuts, pile side down, and top with
straw. This will keep your chooks comfortable while nesting and the eggs safe
from smashing. Put a fake plastic or china egg in the nest to encourage the
chooks to lay.

Feed the chickens with commercial layer pellets, which have all the vitamins
and minerals hens need, and put the pellets in a bird feeder hung away from
brooding boxes and perches. An adult hen will eat about 1 kg of food each
week, including household food waste. Sprinkle eggshells over your scraps to
give the chooks the calcium they need for strong eggs.

Install an automatic waterer away from the feeder.

Check the coop daily, and keep the water, food, perches and straw clean to
avoid disease and parasites.

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COOP PLANS