QualifyingtheTunicFit

DebbiLashbrook

Goals
Learnhowtorecognizeaproperfittingtunic Learnhowtodiagnosefittingproblems Learnhowtocorrecttheproblemsinthe fittingtunic Learnwhichchangescanbedoneinthe software;whichonesneedtobedone manually

GoodFit

GoodFit:Closeups

GoodFit
Nina:Defaulttunic;IntendedFit

GoodFit

DiagnosingFittingIssues
Dissecttheissues,onebyon
Neckbase(affectsacrossshoulder+dartposition) Shoulderslope (affectshowtunicrestsonshoulders) Armscyedepth(affectssleevecapheight) Acrossshoulders(affectsshoulderlength) Frontwidth/backwidth(dependentuponacrossshoulders/bust) BustpointfromCBneck(affectsbustdartposition) Bustpointtobustpoint(affectsdartlength) Frontwaistlength&(affectssizeofdart+balance offront+ backwaistlengthback) Bust (affectscircumferenceatbust) Hip(affectscircumferenceathips) Sleeve

QualifyingFit

Usesafetypintoholdtunic

CheckingtheTunicFit

NeckBase
Measurefromneckbasetofinishededgeoftunic

Neckbase
Properneckbase

Neckbase
Ifneckmeasurementis toolarge,across shoulderswillbetoo wide+bustpointwillbe toolow Alwayscheckneckbase first&correctitbefore proceeding

TOCORRECT:NeckBase
Remeasureneckbaseifneeded Recordchangeinsoftware Printnewtunic

Printingtoconserve
ShortenthefinishedlengthfromCBneck Placefabriconpieces Increasetransparency Overlapandrearrangepiecesasbelow

Printingtoconserve
DeselectPrintaMap Printappropriatepages ClickOK

ShoulderSlope
Cantmeasurefittingproblemswithshoulder slope,buttheissueswillshowintesttunic Fittingissuesshowintestthroughfivesymptoms:
1.Pullstowardendofshoulder 2.Liftingatneckline 3.Gapeatbackofneck 4.Draglinesintounderarm 5.Fullnessinarmscye

ShoulderSlope
Properfitthroughshoulder

ShoulderSlope:NeckBaseHeight
Canusethisasacheckforshoulder slope: SUBTRACT [NeckBaseHeight]minus [ShoulderTipHeight]= [ShoulderSlopemeasurement]

ShoulderSlope
Five symptoms:
1.Checkforpullsfrom shoulderpointtobust

ShoulderSlope
2.Liftingatneck

ShoulderSlope
3.Checkforprotrusionatbackofneckline

ShoulderSlope
4.Checkfordraglinesintoarmscye

ShoulderSlope
5.Excessfabricinarmscye
Stickingupatshoulderwhensleeveset ..Shoulderisnotslopedenough

Shoulderslope
Tunicstandsaway fromneck

QualifyingFit:ShoulderSlope
Noticeliftingatneckline andpullsintoshoulder

QualifyingFit:ShoulderSlope
Seeliftingatneck

ShoulderSlope

ShoulderSlope

ShoulderSlope
Notepullsintoshoulder

TOCORRECT:Releaseshoulderseam
Ifsleevehasbeensetin,releaseitaswell Releaseseamtillshoulderseamrestsflatonshoulder

TOCORRECT:ShoulderSlope
Measureamountof release Adjustshoulderslopein modelmeasurements

TOCORRECT:ShoulderSlope
Toeliminatedraglinesthataretooslopedforthe shoulder,pininnewseamline,takinginmoreat armscye

ShoulderSlope

Unevenshoulderslope

Unevenshoulderslope

Unevenshoulderslope,corrected

NeckBaseHeightDifference

ArmscyeDepth
Armholeisdropped fromoriginalheight Checkafterneckbase+ shoulderslopechecked andadjusted

ArmscyeDepth
Checkbeforesettinginsleevemeasure

ArmscyeDepth
Shouldbe3/4 fromoriginaldepth

Measuringarmscyedepth
Measureunderarmheightagainst thewalltapemeasure Subtractthisfromthecervical heighttogetanapproximate armscyedepth Add12cmforease

Armscyedepth
Probablythemostdifficultonetomeasure correctly Usuallymeasuredtoolong

Armscyedepth
Cancauseproblemwith restrictedmovementof armiftooshortoriftoo long

Armscyedepth

Pulls when arms reach forward

Tightness when raise arms

ArmscyeDepth
Tooshort

TOCORRECT:ArmscyeDepth
Newtunicmustbemadeifarmscyedepthis toolong ORCanaddapieceoffabricunderthearm (extension)andusethesametunictosetin sleeve Mustprintanewsleeve UsePrintSelectedicon

TOCORRECT:ArmscyeDepth
Stitchdeeperseamunderarmiftooshortand trim fromstitching:

AcrossShoulder
Checkbyobservation Canalsomeasureagarmentthatfitsyou acrosstheshoulders Twosymptoms:
Seamfallsoffshoulder;lengthwiseripplesinfront andsleeve Pullsintoshoulder;pullsinarmscye,pullsin sleeve

AcrossShoulders
Measurementtoowide;toonarrow

AcrossShoulders
Narrowshoulders

AcrossShoulders
AcrossShoulderscontrolsshoulderlength

Acrossshoulderinfluenceswidth
Widthacrossfront istoowideaswell

AcrossShoulders
Fallingoffshoulderpoint

TOCORRECT:AcrossShoulders

CrossFront&BackWidth
Remembercrossfront&back widtharecontrolledbyacross shoulder+bustmeasurement Redrawcorrectlineonmuslin Measureamountofscoop needed Transfertopattern Nochangesmadetosleeve

Acrossfront

CrossFront/BackWidth
FrontCrossWidthBackCrossWidth TooWide

CrossFrontBackWidth

Crossfrontwidth

Crossbackwidth

TOCORRECT:Manuallyscoopout armscye

Useyourmeasurement(crossfrontwidthorcross backwidth) Usecurvedrulertomanuallydrawnewarmsyce

Pattern:Scoopingarmscye

CheckforLevelWaist
Drawlineacrossfrontandbackpatternsfromwaist notchtowaistnotchbeforetunicissewntogether Usetheselinestocheckwaistheightonwalltape measureduringfitting

MeasureforLevelWaist
Makesuretheline acrossthebackhitsthe actualbackwaistlength Checkbackfirst accordingtowaistheight measurement Markcorresponding positioninfrontsothat waistheightinfront= waistheightinback

CheckforLevelWaist

CheckBackWaistLengthPosition
Ifitdoesnthitatthebackwaist, markthecorrectpositioninthe back Measuretheamountitisoff ChangetheBWLinthemodel measurements

CheckFrontWaistLengthPosition
Markthisnew correspondingwaist heightinfront RemeasureCBneckto newwaistposition

CheckforLevelWaist
BWLOK;frontontarget Nochangesneeded

CheckforLevelWaist
BWLOK;fronttooshort Dartsizeincreases

Checkforlevelfront

CheckforLevelWaist
BWLOK;fronttoolong Dartsizedecreases

Darttoodeep
Frontlengthtoo longcomparedto backwaistlength

CheckforLevelWaist
BWLtoolong;frontlengthlevelmarkisthe samedifferenceasintheback Dartremainsthesame

CheckforLevelWaist
BWLtoolong;frontlandsatthewaistmark Dartbecomeslarger

CheckforLevelWaist
BWLtoolong;frontlengthlowerthanlevelline Dartbecomeslarger

CheckforLevelWaist
BWLtooshort;frontlengthtooshortbythe sameamount Dartsizewillstaythesame

CheckforLevelWaist
BWLtooshort;frontlengthlandsonline Dartsizewilldecrease

CheckforLevelWaist
BWLtooshort;frontlengthtoolong Dartsizedecreases

Tooshortfrontlength
Diagonalpullstobust

Frontlengthtooshort
Diagonalpulls

FrontLengthtooshort
Frontlengthtooshort comparedtobacklength

Notice pulls across front chest

Frontlengthtoolong

BustDartPosition
TooLow

DartPosition
Darttoohigh

TOCORRECT:BustDartPosition
Measuredifference

DartLength
Determinedbybustpoint tobustpointmeasure Dartshouldendabout1 frombustpoint Tooshortinthispicture

DartLength
BustPointtoBustPointtooshort

TOCORRECT:DartLength

Shoulderseambalance
Forwardshoulderjoint

ShoulderSeamBalance

ShoulderSeamBalance

RoundedBack

ManualAlterations

SideSeamShape
Causedwithshortwaistedfigure,largebust, smallwaist,andlargehighhip

SideSeamShape
Changestylepropertiesofwaist/hipuntilsmoothseam

SleeveIssues
Capheight Circumferenceofsleeve(bicep) Sleevelength Caplengthvs.armscyelength(excess ease)

Sleeve
Capheighttoolong

Sleeve
Sleevecaptooshort

SleeveCapHeight

PrintingSleeveOnly
Default sleeve Increased depth

AdjustingCapHeight
ORcanredrawsleevecap togiveaddedheight

Bicep:TightnessinSleeve
Horizontalpullsortightness inbicep

TOCORRECT:Bicep
Remeasurewitharmbentandbytheside Takethemeasurementfromthedominantarm

BicepforSleeve
Bicepmeasurementtoo small Sleevecapheighttoo short

ShoulderJoint
Horizontalpullslargersleeveacrosscap

Shoulderjoint:ManualAdjustment
Slash,spread Addonlytocaparea

Excessinsleevecapback

AdjustingSleeveCapShape
Thecapheightcanbe manuallyincreasedby redrawingandreshaping thebackcurveofthe sleeve

106

Excesssleevecapease
Toomucheaseinbackbicepforarmscye

Excesseaseinsleevecap
Comparelengthofcaptoback+frontarmscye

Excesseaseinsleevecap
Drawverticallinesfromcap towrist Slashfromcaptowrist Overlapslightlyatcapto eliminateexcessfabric Redrawsleevecapcurve

HighShoulder
Printseparateright+ leftside

SwayBack
Wrinklesbelowwaistinback

SwayBack

EvaluatingtheFit
NeckbasetoolargeRED ShoulderslopeoffBLUE Acrossshouldersmayneed tobechanged(checkneck basefirst)GREEN Sleevecapheightistoo short(PURPLE)oracross shoulderistoolong (GREEN)

Whenaremodelmeasurements changed&whenarestyle propertieschanged?

Aftertestgarmentsaremade,change modelmeasurementsifallgarmentsneed tobeadjusted Changestylepropertieswhenyouwanta changetoaffectonlythatstyle

Measurementsthatdontaffect pattern
Height Cervicalheight Shouldertipheight Highhipheight Kneeheight Frontwaistpitch Totalcrotchlength Knee,ankle,+footinstep
February26,2008 www.berninamylabel.com www.berninausa.com

Crossbackwidth Crossfrontwidth Shoulderlength Armlengthtoelbow Midneck Hipatcrotch Thighmax+mid

UsesforMyLabel
Printandsewdefaultpatterns AdjustStylePropertiestocreateanewstyle withaddedease/circumferenceofhem/ length Usepatternmanipulationtechniquesto createnewstylesfrombasicpatterns UseMyLabelfittedpatternsasanoverlayto checkthefitofcommercialpatterns

Downloadingnewpatterns
Newpatternshave beenpostedonthe website;both BerninaUSA+My Labelwebsite Newdirectionsfor downloadingthe patterns
Visit www.berininausa.com