Studying the use of scientific imagery in advertising and how this is used to sell to women.

Student number: 1005751

Joshua Ward Supervisor: Dr Carolyn Shapiro University College Falmouth 2013

Word Count: 8183

This dissertation is submitted to University College Falmouth towards the degree of Bachelor of Arts by undergraduate study in Advertising. I understand and accept the implications of the notion of plagiarism. I declare that all the material in this dissertation which is not my own work has been clearly identified as such and no material is included for which a degree has previously been conferred on me. I understand that any breach of the fair practice conventions with regard to the work of others may result in a mark of zero for this dissertation and that it could also involve other repercussions. I also understand that too great a reliance on the work of others may lead to a low mark.

Signed & Date

Contents Page
Abstract.........................................................................................................................................................................4

Chapter 1
- Introduction.............................................................................................................................................................7
- Selling to Women.........................................................................................................................................................8

Chapter 2 - Critical Literacy Review..................................................................................................................................13 Chapter 3 - Research Methodology......................................................................................................................................14

- What science representsCase study investigation..............................................................................................15 - How & Why women buy..........................................................................................................................................16

Chapter 4 - Findings & Analysis...........................................................................................................................................16

- Aspiring to Perfection.............................................................................................................................................18 - Case Study...................................................................................................................................................................19

- Primary Research Findings & Analysis..................................................................................................25

- Public Survey..............................................................................................................................................................25 - Professional Interview..............................................................................................................................................28 - ASA Findings..............................................................................................................................................................29

Chapter 5 - Conclusion..............................................................................................................................................................30

Bibliography..............................................................................................................................................................31 Appendix.....................................................................................................................................................................37

Abstract
This dissertation tries to understand how beauty is portrayed in advertising and the pressures this puts on women, and how scientific imagery and language is used in correlation to this. Applying meta-theoretical studies to those of my own, including surveys, interviews and case studies, I try to illustrate the technique that cosmetic companies use to apply certain ideologies and how science is adapted to back this up. It analyses what the publics perception is of science and how women are depicted on television and print campaigns. The main purpose of this argument is to show how science is generally being used to mislead women to purchase cosmetic products.

Acknowledgments
Many thanks to all those who have supported and helped me with this essay, in particular Blaise Douglas for the interview and Sam De Gruchy.

Chapter 1 Introduction
As a medium for garnering consumer interest, advertising has been infamously dishonest in the past and present for using various techniques of selling. The technique this essay will explore is how science as an image, and its statistical properties, is portrayed in selling a product and how this may mislead the public into a false sense of trust. The investigation will be conducted within the cosmetic industry, as this is a key area which is susceptible to misleading or confounding aspects of marketing which involve science on a semiotic level. It will suggest that although not all science claims in adverts are false, they can be misinterpreted or, simply not understood. Through studying how women are persuaded to buy cosmetic products, it shall be possible to understand a connection between the use of scientific terminology and visuals to gain more sales within a competitive industry.

The process of using misleading science involves creating false scientific terms and words, and showing visuals which do not wholly convey the true qualities which society thinks science should project. This then continues to damage fundamental rules of science and allows a brand to represent itself using a false or misguided image. If the scientific method has any authority - or as I prefer to think of it,value - it is because it represents a systematic approach; but this is valuable only because the alternatives can be misleading.(2008. p242) This essay will argue that when a advertising company uses science, or images with a scientific notation but with no real cause, then they are deliberately manipulating the general mentality that the public has in science in order to sell their product.
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As a whole, the scientific communities presentations are often portrayed as an unmistaken truth, and often impose authority with facts, which leads to the mistreatment of the resulting public trust. When science is sold as a marketing technique, it can be misrepresented and manipulated. People perceive science as unquestionably correct, as they assume it has been peer-reviewed and had many hours of deliberation and thought into the given theory, since all official science reports have to go through this procedure of scrutiny to be accepted by the community. When this is bypassed, claims and terminology are employed incorrectly, sometimes by representatives which do not understand it themselves, and so the facts or figures used may be incorrect.

Within advertising, science is used to convince the public of truth, making their product seem scientific makes it seem trustworthy and reliable. The lack of public understanding for science will be tested to understand why this process can go overlooked and unquestioned in modern media streams. It will also inquire that women are targeted more so than men, this will allow us to look at the effects this would imply in a society which prides itself on equal rights. By comparing this to public surveys, we can understand what they are purchasing and the reasons behind their purchase.

Selling to women

Does the implementation of science to sell products target women more so than men? Women are often subjected to being objectified and sold to in a patronizing way throughout the years of advertising. Although nowadays this has partially subsided, it is still possible women are being convinced of a products possibilities of promising them 'youthfulness and beauty', when realistically they are being targeted by marketing techniques which have developed to play to wants and desires. Although modern advertisements may not be as bold and stubborn about their claims,
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one could argue that the semiotic signs of science and knowledge that this essay will explore are just as condescending, and represent a similar technique to get women buying. By critiquing the language that a brand uses to form an identity, it is possible to observe the manipulation of womens emotional needs and create false premises that these can be solved by that brands product. This will throw light to this marketing technique, and illustrate that women are being targeted in what could be interpreted as a manipulative form of selling.

Chapter 2 Critical Literacy Review

This literacy review aims to deliver a deeper understanding of what science portrays, the public opinion on the sciences and how women are emotionally targeted and how science is used to implement this within advertising. It refers to the work of Ben Goldacre, Terence A Shrimp, Ron Beasly and Marcel Danesi, Dominic Strinati and John O'Shaughnessy in order to synthesise the various aspects of the subject. Other authors ideologies and ideas are used but not directly quoted in reference to their work.

In advertising, there are many persuasive techniques employed which try to manipulate consumers into buying their products. Women are the main target for advertisers and marketers and ways to persuade them are very developed and formulated. Science regulates itself through facts and figures, and because of this it has a social presence of authority and knowledge. Within popular
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media and culture, this is validation is somewhat disregarded sometimes and channeled to the public in a way which allows advertisers to shape their motives to sell around science to gain profit by playing on the emotions and trust of the consumers.

In the media, science is commonly portrayed in a way which announces itself as a breakthrough story or one that scares the public (2008). These generally go against the process science involves. I would go further, and argue that science itself works very badly as a news story: it is by its very nature a subject for the features section, because it does not generally move ahead by sudden, epoch-making breakthroughs. It moves ahead by gradually emergent themes and theories, supported by a raft of evidence from a number of different disciplines on a number of different explanatory levels. yet the media remain obsessed with new breakthroughs. (2008) Mr Goldacre asserts that science is misunderstood in the media as it is often being portrayed as a Breakthrough. He claims the public get excited by a new claim, and it can often be seen as a new hope, especially when applied to Cosmetic advertising. Mr Goldacre expels these breakthrough stories by stating that science doesn't move forward in such ways, as it takes years of work coupled with peer reviews before something can be confirmed and tested.

Understanding the exaggerated process science goes through, in order to get coverage on the news and media, it is possible to understand how the same process may be transferred to advertising to exaggerate and add value to a product's qualities.

Terence A.Shrimp explains this process in more detail, he writes that Advertising adds value to brands by influencing perceptions. Effective advertising causes brands to be viewed as more elegant, more stylish, more prestigious, of higher quality, and so on. (T.A.Shrimp) pg.190 To simply add value to a product the advertising agencies influence perceptions. Using keywords that
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are associated with what the consumer wants makes them crave the product, but it is these keywords which can be scientifically exaggerated in claims. Another way in which a product may try to change its identity is by rebranding, essentially changing their use of keywords and images in order to create a new perception of themselves. 1 As the product itself very rarely changes, an emotional trigger can be used sin order to persuade the consumer that the purchase will benefit their apparent needs such as beauty or happiness.

Ron Beasly and Marcel Danesi(2002) discuss emotional advertising and how it is becoming more frequent in modern advertising and marketing campaigns. They postulate that the rational mind is being abandoned, and that advertisers are playing to the non-rational part of the consumer, the emotions. (2002) In cosmetics especially this plays on womens emotional desire for beauty and to feel accepted. They go on to suggest two techniques that non-rational advertising is using, terming them 'positioning' and 'image-creation'. Positioning is simply selecting a target audience which is suitable to the product, then targeting adverts for them. The other technique, 'image-creation' is fashioning a 'personality' for it with which a particular type of consumer can identify. (2002) This can then be exaggerated to convey a mythology, or mythologization, which is the strategy of imbruing brand names, logos, product design, ads, and commercials intentionally with some mythic meaning. For instance, the quest for beauty. (2002.p12) This technique resonates throughout the cosmetic industry and helps create a desire for women to achieve a certain level of 'beauty'.

Personalities created by agency professionals are intended to play on the public's perceptions on what would otherwise be a product that has the same properties as it's competitors. A description is
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Stella Artois is a good example of a rebranding campaign to change peoples perceptions. The larger was being associated with thuggery and binge drinking so they rebranded themselves as sophisticated and French. (Although it originates from Belgium) http://www.guardian.co.uk. 2007. Out goes stella, in comes Artois. [Online] Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2007/jun/advertising.media [Accessed 02 January 13] 10

detailed to create this personality by using words that the consumer will find attractive, the actions of this arouses emotions within the consumer, causing a change in perspective by creating a bond or connection between buyer and product. John O'Shaughnessy talks about this in his book 'Persuasion in advertising,' he explains how this affects the thoughts of the targeted audience:

The names given to features of a product (like anti-aging cream) do not just declare a benefit but create perceptions. This can be effective since consumers are disposed to react on the basis of the names used to describe, as these are categories used to organize our thoughts.2

'Image-creation' can be associated with advertisers wanting to manipulate the wants of a consumer. Women's advertising within the cosmetic industry uses this technique to create an image of glamour, beauty and youth (among others) thus making women want to achieve what is being portrayed as they find themselves pressured. But these images of beauty and perfection are often manipulated and do not show a true reflection of womens lifestyles. Dominic Strinati (1995) explains that women are given a 'fantasy, surrogate world' in the media, compared to the world they actually live in.

Nobody is perfect, but a strive to be so is such an ongoing pressure within society, and this is the fantasy advertisers pander to. The signs of science in adverts, whether a lab coat or a double helix structure, create a meaning that is portraying what science represents. Within the context of a

OShaughnessy, J, 2004. Persuasion in advertising. 1st ed. USA: Routledge 11

cosmetic advert, the link is made by the consumer that the product can help them achieve 'perfection' as they already have a predetermined trust in science.

It is impossible to interpret signs adequately unless their contexts of use, and the social relationships which confer meaning upon them, are taken into consideration (1995). Mr Strinati's interpretation of semiotics and symbolism underlines how the basic use of signs to give meaning to something are constructed and produced. It is a simple formula that enables advertisers to attach meaning to something which otherwise would be meaningless. Using his process, the social relationship would be the one of emotional need for beauty, or youth, and the signs would be of images with a scientific impression thus combining the two with trustworthiness to form a strong bond with the product, and this explains why women buy cosmetics such as anti-wrinkle cream even though the effects of such products are often temporary.(www.cap.org 2012)

In analysing the use of science and how people are persuaded to buy products, a correlation can be gathered in order to suggest that women are being sold to by the use of signifying science as a tool for truth and trust. This implies that women are still being unfairly treated as consumers. It also suggests that science itself is being treated unfairly, and that the media is using it as a tool to create a story which gives weight to a products point of sale in order to make it more appealing, garner trust and gain greater profits.

Ben Goldacre (2008) explains the 'dubious' way that advertisers sell science. These adverts sell a dubious world view. They sell the idea that science is not about the delicate relationship between evidence and theory. He then discusses the use of keywords used by advertisers which are the triggers to make people perceive their product as sciencey such as Microcellular Complexes, Neutrillium XY, Tenseur Peptidique Vegetal and more, He argues that science in the beauty
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industry is being is being exaggerated by authority figures in white coats and often completely made up with no physical evidence. This is mainly sold to what he declares attractive young women, who are disappointingly under represented in the sciences. Because of this under representation and the exploitation of young women who do not question these statements an,d give their trust into the power of science, it makes it clear to see that there is a compelling argument to be made as to if this technique of selling is appropriate at all and whether regulations should be in place.

Chapter 3 Research Methodology

The subject area of this dissertation culminates in a number of various sub-topics and combines them to investigate the theory of using science in advertising to sell to women. This arouses questions in each individual area of study, which enables them to be explored separately. The research methods involved in each subject area vary and so it is essential to gather information which best represents each fields best aspects on order to attain quality data and give backing to my proposed paradigm theory. Research of a quantitative nature alongside meta-theoretical investigations will support primary findings and bring with it a concise acknowledgement of the dissertation project.

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What science represents

To research what it is that science represents in popular culture and within the scientific community it is essential to understand it's uses and ideologies. As the area of science that I am investigating is the cosmetic industry, permitted me access to a strong archive of information available, since it is a popular subject. Goldacre B, Irwin A and Wynne B all give the fundamental ideas behind the argument of the poor utilisation of science and speak of the inadequacies of science socially and as a media form. Goldacre B, in particular, gives a very recent insight into the use of science with questionable credibility, which leads to how it is used to manipulate, persuade and how to look for examples of the 'pseudoscience'. To ensure examples which gave scientific claims were correct and did not give false accounts of what is allowed on advertisements, an interview was conducted with the ASA (Advertising Standards Authority) to ask about the use of science in adverts and the rules which they deploy to moderate certain elements of advertising. This is backed up by articles that demonstrate laws regarding such matters, which is predominantly web-based and Robert B and Cave C's book titled 'Understanding Regulation'. When it is possible to understand what is permissible and what is impermissible in advertisements, then it is possible to gain a better understanding of what the publics perception is regarding science as a community and authority. I conducted a web survey in order to garner information and a understanding about peoples current affiliation with cosmetic companies. Questions were designed to gauge why they had brought cosmetic products, what they thought of the science behind adverts and whether they noticed the direct use of science words or symbolism at all. It allocated a segment give the public scope to anonymously submit their own views on the topic, and give subjective accounts of their perspective on the given subject.

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To try and gather information from the advertisers side of the argument, an interview with an industry professional will provide an insight which enables a more rounded view of the subject. This also offers a personal reflection of the happenings within cosmetic advertising, paving the way for the technique to be explained first hand from someone whom has produced it.

Case Study investigation

As the investigation involves cosmetic adverts and how they portray science, a case study deconstructing the signs and signifiers in magazine print adverts and television commercials will enable an explanation of what the semiotic properties of science are, and serve to illustrate their use by example. It also gives a visual representation of the dissertations question and makes it clearer to see how the advertising technique works. Women's magazines will be the main source of the adverts, as they easily provide the most popular source of material regarding cosmetic print adverts, due to the comparatively large readership and coverage regarding popular culture. Similarly, it is sensible to break down and investigate television adverts. Every aspect of the advert is scrutinised to draw on evidence to strengthen my claim. The semiotic properties of the adverts assessed lay parallel to findings found by professionals when deciphering similar adverts, thus creating a portfolio of visual advertisements that use science as a symbol for power and knowledge to sell their product to women.

My main aims for the case study consist of the following:

Unravel the signs related to science, and discuss their meaning. Explain the thought processes of choosing certain signs are over others. Show the language used, and explore its potential for confusing customers.
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Illuminate the whole technique of science as a means of selling. Explore beauty products portrayal of perfection and how this involves science.

How & Why Women Buy

A part of the research undertaken seeks to consolidate the ways in which women buy products and their methods of thought when purchasing. This is library-based research that strives to understand why the use of science works to pursued women to buy cosmetics. Asking 'why' it works involves aspects of phycology and structures in place within society. Authors including Paco Underhill (2009) and Dominic Strinati (1995) give solid foundations on which to base areas of research and allow a deeper investigation to take place.

Chapter 4 Data Presentation & Analysis

It is important to understand that science represents an authority in society, it provides answers to challenges and plays host to the smartest human minds. Gyorgy Markus (2011) talks of the presence of science within certain cultures, the divorce between the 'epistemological' and 'sociological'
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image of science only express the fundamental underlying characteristics of occidental rationalism at the level of its 'logic' the two belong 'in separately together. He describes the culture that science represents and details its rationality and reason. This view of science is also endorsed by Ben Goldacre (2008), and scientist Professor Richard Dawkins, who operates a foundation for reason and science under his name that teaches the appropriate uses of science, and the values it consists of. Within the realm of advertising and marketing, science is more of a broad term compared to that of theoretical or experimental science which is taught in schools and operated in labs. The term science within advertising can be justified by anything from a claim to an image which has notations of science, to the very nature of science mirrored in public conscience. This image is dominated by males in advertising and is used to signify power, knowledge and dominant authority. As the cosmetic adverts are catered to women, there is scope for investigation of the publics view of science, and how they perceive its authority and trustworthiness.

An investigation of the public's attitude to science was taken in May 2011 by the Ipsos MORI social research institute. This report shows how science is seen by varying demographics and conducts primary research towards peoples thoughts of science. They discover that people tend to have different levels of trust depending on the way information is broadcast. Scientific journals are deemed the most trustworthy. Newspapers are seen as less trustworthy as the public find it often focuses on 'bad news stories,' (Which is what Ben Goldacre discusses) although the common perception is that science journalists must have a reasonable knowledge of science (2011).

The graph [See Fig 1.0] (2011) shows that only 47% 'Agree the information they hear about science is generally true', but the overall trust in scientists is fairly high, other than those who work in private sectors such as the cosmetic industry. This could be due to peoples lack of trust of such products, or assume they are more likely to be influenced by money. Knowing the limits of the
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publics trust in science is a key factor for advertisers to consider, as it enables them to understand what their target audiences perception is of the sciences and how they would process it when added to a advert or packaging. Although the graph shows the public tend not to fully believe everything they hear or see regarding the private sectors, the research conducted by Ipos MORI indicates a overall confidence and belief in the scientific community. Applying this to advertising, the survey will be able to elaborate the belief systems regarding more targeted aspects within the industry.

Aspiring to 'Perfection'

It has been argued, both in the past and contemporarily, that the portrayal of women in fashion and the beauty industries has damaged immensely women's personal self-image, and played a part in rising numbers of those with anorexia. It is young girls and women which are the main focus for advertisers to target with their marketing campaigns, and so it is this demographic who feel the most pressure to look and feel the way that these brands portray as the ideal. In the culture of appearance, cosmetics promise enhancement, repair and transformation. (Johnson,2008,p.106) These adverts endorse a personality onto themselves of perfection, and the promise of enrichment, by promoting these ideals through celebrities, combined with a manipulative selection of language and imagery. The repetitious barrage of these themes complement the larger discourse of beauty ideals and fantasies permeating daily life in a media-saturated society. Perpetually circulating visual and verbal images of ideal beauty tantalize the consumer with cosmetic products for attaining these images, and lace these images with messages about both youthfulness and sex. (2008) The effects of this bombardment are simple, they want to achieve a style and look to resemble their idols, and hence be perfect. This idea that advertisers try to convince young women that they need perfection plays into the use of scientific imagery, as science (as discussed) has annotations of knowledge, power and authority. Combined, the pressure of beauty and the authority of science allows women
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young and old to channel their hope into something which is socially acceptable to trust. It is then the advertisers who are hijacking sciences general good reputation and using it for their own financial gain. Below are examples of cosmetic adverts which create this personality of perfection with obvious or subtle hints.

Case Study
The purpose of this case study is to investigate a number of cosmetic adverts, print and television, to show the way that advertisers portray beauty and perfection, in relation to scientific terminology which is used to back up claims and apply a trustworthy source.

This Max Factor print advert [See Fig 2.6], taken from (Company Magazine, 2012) is a simple advert for an average facial foundation. The implications which present perfection in this advert come in the form of language. At first glance of the advert the most stand out word is clearly Eternal, meaning long lasting, or endless. This can be portrayed as an element of perfection as being eternal signifies no end or no flaws, which is backed with the use of the word Flawless. The more pronounced claim of perfection comes in the products review, which says Perfection in a bottle: Rated 4.75/5. The advert also shows a source of this statement which comes from a survey of only thirty-two readers,. and the quote coming from a Miss Julie R. This instils in the consumer a belief that the product itself is not the one whom is making the statement, but their fellow members of the public. Thirty-two readers is clearly not a large enough sample to represent fairly the overall opinion of the products potential consumers. The statement of perfection is also used in adverts from Youth Code - Luminize [See Fig 2.7], who state their product Perfects and refines skins surface. The ideology of perfection seems to persist in most make up adverts and anti-wrinkle creams advertising but it is also visible in the multivitamin business. The company Perfectil uses very similar imagery and is found in the same genre of magazines targeted to young women.
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Perfectil sells multivitamins which supposedly enhance skin, hair and nails by adding to the bodies vitamin levels. Their use of beauty and science is a perfect example of these two different techniques coming together to show the dissertations argument. This advert (Glamour Magazine, 2012) [See Fig 2.8, 2.9], both web and print show connotations of science parallel to those of beauty and perfection. With a clearly attractive women as the main feature, this automatically signifies the possibilities of the product. Looking at the woman, she is not pictured like other cosmetic adverts, she has her hair pulled tightly to the side, and her fingers resting on her chin. These could signify intelligence, as her fingers are in a position which is used by actors and actresses when they portray deep thinking, or more famously the statue The thinker by Auguste Rodin,3 while having her hair pulled tight to the side could replicate how one would wear their hair in a lab or office. The paragraph that accompanies the image explains Perfectils pioneering in nutricosmetics, a word that is not recognized by the english language, but is a collision of the words nutrition and cosmetics. Motives for coining this term are rooted in the desire to appear more intelligent, longer or confusing thus making the reader assume it be scientific or cleaver. The portrayal of intelligence this advert conveys suggests that it is targeting womens desire for health, or perfection, and tries to convince them of this product by the use of scientific imagery, or language which the reader may assume to be knowledgeable. Perfectils brand personality is embodied by this woman, she is simply the face of the brand conveying intelligence and beauty, but also a aspect of nature appears as the woman is not wearing any clothes.

A print advert [See Fig 3.0] by Origins (Cosmopolitan Magazine, 2012) sells Skin tone correcting serum. The advert itself takes more of a naturist approach, with green back tones and foliage in the background. This adverts main focus is not of a woman, but the display of the products creator Dr Andrew Weil. It displays his name on the bottle, but there is more attention focusing part of the

http://www.musee-rodin.fr/en/collections/sculptures/thinker 20

advert comes in the heading, which reads Now Dr.Weil transforms skin from dull to Mega-Bright. How Brilliant! Suggesting that a product can transform skin doesnt sound like scientific terminology but instead suggests this product can work miracles on a scientific basis. Investigating Dr.Weils, I discovered he is a leading doctor in holistic medicine, which includes a theory that disease derives from ones personal well being. On his business webpage the word transform also appears in the tagline, Educate, Heal, Transform. In the print adverts background what looks like a vial or test tube rests behind the bottle, implementing that it has science backing the product. John R. Rossiter and Larry Percy (1978) talk of a process called visual reinforcement, this hypothesis states that when a consumer is pleased with what they have seen, they have an increased response to the verbal declarations [See Fig 1.1]. Understanding this process, when the Origins advert says that the product can noticeably make your skin Mega-Bright, the scientific imagery and miracle declaring terminology make the consumer feel that the product will work and have trust in it, depending on their personal views and how they process the images.

E45 skin cream is one of the leading companies in the UK market for moisturizers and relief for rashes and other symptoms. It advertises daily on the countrys most views channels and is available in all supermarkets and pharmacies. As E45 is a large contributor to the cosmetics industry, it is important to see what techniques it uses for its advertising, as industry leaders tend to have the largest budgets and so the best advertising agencies working for them. The main advert from E45 that is used in this case study is their most recent, once which is on television presently. (E45 Skin Cream: 2012) The 21 second advert consists of a young mother, father, and a newly born baby enjoying their time together. For the majority of the film it shows them all naked hugging and rolling around, which invokes imagery of nature which is a common ploy of skin cream brands. 16 seconds into the advert the narration tell the customer to Trust clinically proven E45 with no footnote of a study or any source of information. The image which presents itself during this
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announcement is of a stereotypical male scientist dressed in his lab coat looking into a microscope and typing on his computer, digitally shopped onto the pot of cream [See Fig 3.1, 3.2]. The fact it is a male scientists instantly personifies dominance and leadership. It is unknown whether E45 scientists practice this way, but it is certainly portrayed in a way which it cannot be unmistaken for anything else, other than a trustworthy scientist at work. This supplies the viewer with the visual reinforcement (1978) that allows them to create the attachment of trust which is included in the narration, and the already present ideologies through the medium of science. This attachment that is created gives the consumer an extended belief that the product will work, enabling them to focus on the benefits it may produce to their lifestyle, which connects back to the main feature of the young family and the brand identity this resonates to the viewer, giving them a sense of lust for what ideology is being dramatized. This is a standard form of advertising science as a tool for knowledge and trust, a number of companies use this technique as shown by E45 skin cream to come effect. Although some use sources and trial results which give a higher degree of visual reinforcement to the viewer, despite the fact such trails often come under immense scrutiny by science professionals, most notably Ben Goldacre (2008).

One such advert which advertises its scientific credentials is by Pantene, a leading cosmetics company in the UK. Their Science behind the beauty (Pantene:2010) advert is an attempt to show the science that is involved in their shampoo, and quell peoples questions who doubt it. The 1:29 minute advert is formatted as a tour of the facilities at Pantene, including interviews with professionals including a Pantene scientist. After a short introduction the main woman who plays the role of a journalist visits a place called The institute of Trichologists (a branch of study in cosmetics), although the meaning of this word is not explained, it is clearly stated and shown distinctly in the advert, making it obvious that the advertisers wanted to bring attention to the word and thus make the viewer notice it. The imagery which ties each scene together even has aspects
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which could simulate something scientific, such as hexagons moving around could indicate cell structures, although projected cleverly so that if one did not have sufficient scientific knowledge they could still gather its implications. The first main part of the advert is an interview with Mr. Keith Hobbs who is Clinical Director at the Institute of Trichologists. It takes place in what is assumed to be his office, where he is sat in the leading position behind the desk, which perceives to give him power and presence. During the course of the interview it offers only opinions of the product by Mr Hobbs, he is asked isnt all hair the same? The question itself doesn't propose much grasp for the evidence that the advert is apparent in showing, but it does allow Mr Hobbs a chance to explain that no, different hair types have different needs. He goes on to exclaim he has experience, which adds to his image of a dominant male, while he shows the next prominent aspect of the interview that resides in the monitor on the desk where examples of hair are shown. These are said to be examples of split ends in various types of hair which many people may suffer from. To use the term suffer may be slightly over-exaggerative since this term is often used with the most horrifying aspects of human life. It can be said that this term engages the target audience, as they are the part of the public who may regard image as a vital part of social life.

Pantene Pro-V uses science throughout the advert and this makes it important to show how this science is used as a mechanism for delivering suggestions of the ideologies it represents. This is no more apparent than after the brief interview with Mr Hobbs, in which the camera focuses on a form with only the Pantene logo present. A stamp then prints on the The Institute of Trichologists name across it, while the narration tells of the approval from Mr Hobbs. This stamp could represent the stamping of authority which Mr Hobbs is associated with and also the confirmation that science approves of the product giving the consumer a heightened belief in the product, which is exactly what is intended with this technique of selling. During the interlude towards the next chapter of the advert, the journalist questions to the viewer, Could this really mean the end of bad hair days?
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This question also aims towards the target audience of which it could be argued that personal selfimage is important due to the aforementioned pressure which woman receive in beauty adverts. The second main feature of the advert takes place in a Pantene research lab, with the journalist again holding an interview although this time with a female scientist Dr. Frauke Neuser. The lab appears to be very much like one would imagine a lab, clean surfaces with white and metallic appliances with people looking busy in the busy in the background. While scientists in adverts are usually male, such as the one imaged in the E45 advert, Dr Neuser is female and so the usual ideologies of power and dominance differ slightly, perhaps suggesting to women that they can take control of their own beauty by adopting male notions of authority presented in scientific ways. Using a female as the source of knowledge in the interview could also give a sense of similarity from the target audience towards Dr Neuser, and therefore allowing for a greater degree of trust to be achieved. A key statement made during the interview comes when Dr Neuser talks of the companies research, Our seven year research project, including technologies used by NASA. Talking about the length of time they have spent researching tries to tell the viewer that they have dedication, commitment and most importantly the right answer, as when something has been investigated for such a long amount of time, one would expect a correct answer. Claiming they have used technologies from NASA provides no source of reason within the advert; it is simply name dropped, or used to garner a greater sense of trust, there also seems to be emphasis when saying including. NASA are a fundamentally scientific organization that do invent technologies used in other industries, although this advert does not specify or go into any further detail. Saying they have used technologies from NASA can only increase the amount of credibility surrounding their own research, and so enabling the viewer to be more drawn in towards the adverts selling techniques. Adding to the seven year research program, another big number is stated when Dr Neuser shows a machine which combs hair. She claims they applied thousands of brush strokes, on hair treated with products designed to prevent split ends, the keywords included which could be suggested to carry scientific meaning or
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significance in order for the viewer to attach a image in their minds would be, applied, treated and designed. All these words are processes that propose a method of scientific strategy, as has been undertaken in the experiment. The extent to which this advert goes in order to persuade the audience is evident, its use of science is to convince the target audience that the product will in fact bring a benefit and thus personal self relief of certain physical problems. Throughout the process of the case study, it was apparent how many cosmetic adverts use subtle or distinct symbology relating to science in order to sell. The way in which they portray themselves plays to the emotional needs which the women they target require to meet social requirements of beauty, rendering their products more desirable.

Primary Research & Findings

Public Survey

Conducting a public survey allows a first hand insight into what the perceptions are of science in advertising, the impressions this leave, and what they indicate. Researching what women and men thought of the cosmetics industry involving science enables a comparison to that of previous claims made in this dissertation. The test involved sixty-five participants who are kept anonymous, out of these members of the public who took part in the survey fifty-one (78.5%) of them where female [See Fig 1.2]. It was also found that 96.9% of them always or sometimes buy cosmetics products [See Fig 1.3]. Although sixty-five participants cannot guarantee a full representation of public opinion, it does serve as a useful indication of the validity of the argument I have put forward.

Looking deeper into the figures, it is possible to understand why people buy products, and whether the scientific terminology used is noticed, and if this influences their decision to purchase them. The reasons why people brought various products had a mixed response but not one which seems
25

shocking. Trusting a brand was the most required with 61.3% [See Fig 1.4] , a good recommendation, being personally tried and price whee all slightly lower scoring factors, but equaling around the same as each other. This does indicate that trust is the most important aspect of buying a product, but this trust is only achieved with the product being tested personally, along with the products image and advertising. Knowing if the effects of science in advertising work to enhance trust, it is important to acknowledge how many people see what is being presented to them and how they respond to it. It was found that 40% of the 65 members of the public knowingly look at the science involved in adverts and packages but when asked if they had ever questioned scientific claims within an advert, 73.8% of people said they had [See Fig 1.5, 1.6]. This means that while not everyone is immediately wary of the science in these types of adverts, they are still seen. The reason more people have questioned the claims compared to the number of people who look for the science may be down to an overly exaggerated example, which has got the attention of the viewer without them deliberately searching for it, meaning they have seen a few adverts which seem so outrageous it has drawn their attention leading to it being questioned. One of the most fundamental findings this survey discovered was that 72.3% of people only sometimes believe the scientific meanings in adverts, while 24.6% said they never believe them [See fig 1.7]. This highlights the way that these adverts have damaged their reputation, mainly in the past when they where less regulated. The Pantene, Science behind the beauty (2010) advert could show a way in which they are trying to gain this trust back, by seemingly investigating their own science methods and claims. Expanding this understanding of science within advertising, it was found that 44.6% of people are not more likely to purchase a product if it had a sciencey background, this includes claims, terminology and data. This information illustrates that although a vast amount of people do not seem swayed by the scientific imagery, a greater number of the public are more inclined to buy a product based on its science, thus explaining why the method is still used regardless of the publics questioning.
26

The part of the survey which allowed individual opinions gives a great insight into why people do question the science in advertisements. All responses are anonymous, this was due to a number of the applicants being involved professionally within medicine. Over half of the participants gave feedback regarding their views, with most discouraging the trust of scientific claims [See Figs 1.9 2.3]. One of the most insightful comments underlines the key attributes that science projects and how this is then taken in by the consumer. The most frustrating aspect of advertising science is the terminology they use. I find they tend to invent terms like microderm technology which could mean anything to the layman consumer. Even the use of the words technology itself should be questioned. I think it is patronizing to the consumer. (Response made on 3/1/2013. 0:13) It describes how the use of scientific terminology can be broken down to evaluate the semiotic values it projects, it also insinuates that layman consumers, such as those generally targeted in cosmetic adverts, do not have the sufficient knowledge to understand the language used. This could lead to confusion or a sense of blind trust. Other also relate to argument that these adverts can seem patronizing to the viewer saying that, Their evidence isnt always based on results but more on what people have claimed, although Us public will believe it because it says so on tele and we are a vain nation and want to look younger. (5/1/2013. 11:30) This reinforces the notion that advertising in cosmetics target women who have the need for beauty products, and this desire is added to the hope in which science in their advertising gives, in order to sell to a large consumer base and therefore patronizing the viewer. Many of the comments agree that the claims are often questionable and biased, this gives confirmation to the notion of misleading science as a technique of selling. Taking a public survey to understand peoples perceptions without them being held account of what they said allowed a insight into what is really thought of considering advertisers. There is still doubt that although many people see the science and question its credibility, whether this does in fact impact on their buying habits of cosmetic products.
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Professional Interview - [See Fig 2.4]

Gaining an interview with a professional with first hand experience was vital to the research project, it allowed a defined perspective on topics which could be seen as opinion based. I managed to conduct an e-mail based interview with ex-creative director at Rimmel London, Mr Blaise Douglas. When asked if science has the power to sell, or add weight to an argument in order to sell, implied that while science does have a role to play in advertising, it depends on certain factors. One of these is that the target audience makes a difference, For example, a professional (hairdresser/ Beautician ect) will be looking for more substance to any purchase they make for their work than a hurried housewife. Most cosmetic adverts do not target the professional, and so substance can be subsided when talking to a hurried housewife, meaning that the claims used are repeatedly not backed up with sufficient evidence. Describing sciences use in adverts, Mr Douglas states that Generally people want to know what something will do for them and science can just act as the proof. Therefore, it needs to be properly contextualised depending on your audience, though I think many categories and in particular cosmetics use science and statistics and consumer testing so freely that they negate the message. Mr Douglas describes perfectly the exaggeration of science in advertising, the freely way that it is used allows terminology which the public deem misleading to persist within selling products. The confirmation that science is used as evidence of proof also gives testimony to the fact that its purpose is to portray truth and thus creating an atmosphere of reliability around the product. The personality that companies must create to sell their products comes from competitors selling the same or similar commodities, but if your product is the same as your competitors, what we call 'Me too' then the science can't hide that and you have to try and package

28

your benefit differently. This gives a reason as to why false science and exaggerated claims can be used, as a new benefit which differentiates themselves advantageously from the competition.

ASA Findings - [See Fig 2.5] To be able to fully understand what is allowed in advertising regarding science legally, and what the recommendations are, a short interview with the ASA was conducted. The question asked was referring to the use of fake science, or 'pseudoscience,' and how it is regulated in advertising, if at all. The ASA responded with: While there is no specific code rule related to pseudoscience, the codes include general rules that state advertising must be responsible, must not mislead, or offend and specific rules that cover advertising to children and ads for specific sectors like alcohol, gambling, motoring, health and financial products. The code rules which the ASA are talking about also specify that Objective claims must be backed by evidence, if relevant consisting of trials conducted on people. This could mean a survey of 100 people are simply asked whether they feel the product works or not and this can be marketed as evidence. The ASA also say in their codes that Marketers must not confuse consumers by using unfamiliar scientific words for common conditions. Even though the ASA understand the use of science to mislead or confuse consumers, it is still occurring on a large scale both with the use of language, and the use of science symbology in cosmetic adverts. In the interview with Mr Blaise Douglas he describes first hand what it is like for advertisers to create adverts around these rules, Of course this particular sector is very heavily monitored, and what is said and shown has to meet ever more stringent criteria and proofs. but there is still much dancing on pinheads - such as the claims of 'clinically tested' and 'clinically proven' etc - there is a whole world of legal nuance and its a mine field. It seems that although there are strict rules and regulation, there is always a way for advertisers to perform the technique of selling science.
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Chapter 5
- Conclusion

The idea that scientific terminology along side visual reinforcement (1978) is used to sell to women, who are being emotionally targeted due to the pressures of perfection which are portrayed in the media, gives a understanding in how marketers and advertisers sell their products on the mass market. From the research undertaken, it can be concluded that the imagery and language that builds the majority of cosmetic adverts derives from playing on women's personal aspirations in order to enhance a bond which develops trust with the brand and product. It can be suggested that alongside a brands personality or identity, it can project an imagery of a scientific background which either logically or emotionally makes the consumer think the product has more credibility. Even though findings in public surveys proposed that many people question the science in advertising and what it means, most consumers preferred a product to have some attachment to science or evidence. As of February 2012, the cosmetic industry in the UK is worth in excess of 15billion, although this is set to rise due to the number the increase of masculine products, meaning there will be no slowing down or concessions of techniques in order to target consumers and advertise to them efficiently. Selling science will always be a subject that draws attention from a number of areas of work due to the effects it has on the ideologies it portrays, and the way in which it targets people who are self-conscious about their personal image. The pressure of beauty that is applied by advertisers creates a cycle which works in favor for the large cosmetic companies, as they can then offer a solution, which is validated by science, to instill a desire in consumers for beauty and perfection.
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Appendices
- Figures & Tables [ Fig1.0]

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[Fig 1.1]

38

[Fig 1.2]

[Fig 1.3]

39

[Fig 1.4]

[Fig 1.5]

40

[Fig 1.6]

[Fig 1.7]

41

[Fig 1.8]

[Fig 1.9]

42

[Fig 2.0]

[Fig 2.1]

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[Fig 2.2]

[Fig 2.3]

44

[Fig 2.4]

45

[Fig 2.5]

[Fig 2.6]

47

[Fig 2.7]

48

[Fig 2.8]

[Fig 2.9]

50

[Fig 3.0]

51

[Fig 3.1]

[Fig 3.2]

52

[Fig 3.3]

[Fig 3.4]

53

[Fig 3.5]

54