WATER SUPPLY PLUMBING II MOS 21K, SKILL LEVELS 1 AND 2 Subcourse EN5111 EDITION B United States Army Engineer

School Fort Leonard Wood, Missouri 65473-8929 11 Credit Hours Edition Date: April 2005 SUBCOURSE OVERVIEW This subcourse will enable you to join and install various kinds of pipes that can be used to complete the water supply system of a building. Made of different materials, these pipes must be cut and the ends prepared for fitting connections to form leakproof joints. These connections are made with threaded joints, fused joints, and compression joints, depending on the type of piping material used. As the water supply pipeline runs are installed, they must be supported with hangers and holders. Sometimes, the building structure must be cut into when installing the water supply pipeline runs for the lavatories, sinks, and water closets. Once a rough-in water supply system is installed, it is tested for leaks. This water supply subcourse is presented in two lessons, each corresponding to a terminal learning objective. Appendix C contains a metric conversion chart. There are no prerequisites for this subcourse. The lessons reflect the doctrine that was current at the time this subcourse was prepared. In your own work situation, always refer to the latest official publications. Unless this publication states otherwise, masculine nouns and pronouns do not refer exclusively to men. TERMINAL LEARNING OBJECTIVE: ACTION: CONDITION: STANDARD: You will learn to perform tasks related to preparing and connecting pipes and installing pipeline runs for a water supply system. You will be given the materials contained in the subcourse. To demonstrate proficiency, you must achieve a minimum score of 70 percent on the subcourse examination.

TABLE OF CONTENTS Subcourse Overview Lesson 1: Water Supply System and Piping Materials Part A: Part B: Part C: Identifying the Types of Piping Materials Measuring the Pipes Preparing the Piping Materials

Practice Exercise Lesson 2: Rough-In Water Supplies and Water Supply Pipeline Runs Part A: Part B: Part C: Part D: Part E: Practice Exercise Appendix A: List of Common Acronyms Appendix B: Recommended Reading List Appendix C: Metric Conversion Chart EN5111 Edition B Examination Installing Stops (Valves) Using Fittings on Water Supply Pipeline Runs Installing Water Supply Pipeline Runs Supporting Water Supply Pipeline Runs Testing the Water Supply System for Leaks

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LESSON 1 WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM AND PIPING MATERIALS Critical Task: 052-248-1002 OVERVIEW LESSON DESCRIPTION: This lesson covers the identification, measurement, and preparation of piping materials for installation into a water supply system. It also covers the identification of fittings and the use of joint connections. TERMINAL LEARNING OBJECTIVE: ACTION: CONDITION: STANDARD: REFERENCES: You will learn to describe the procedures used to prepare galvanizedsteel/iron, plastic, and copper pipes for joint connections. You will be given the material contained in this lesson. You will correctly answer the practice exercise questions at the end of this lesson. The material contained in this lesson was derived from Field Manual (FM) 3-34.471 and Technical Manual(TM) 5-551K. INTRODUCTION A plumber must have the ability to join and install various kinds of pipes that can be used to complete the water supply system of a building. These pipes are made of different materials, and many times they will have to be cut and their ends prepared for fitting connections to form leakproof joints. These connections are made with threaded joints, fused joints, and compression joints depending on the type of pipe. PART A: IDENTIFYING THE TYPES OF PIPING MATERIALS 1-1. Piping Materials. The layout or repair of a water supply system requires that pipes are measured to specific lengths, cut, and the cut ends prepared to form joints. Pipe lengths can be measured in several ways. The measurement must allow for the pipe engagement into a fitting and the dimension of a fitting. Table 1-1 gives the pipe characteristics and uses in a plumbing system.

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Table 1-1. Pipe Characteristics and Uses

TYPE OF PIPE Cast-iron soil pipe: Hub and spigot Double hub Hubless Galvanized-steel/iron pipe Copper tubing: K1 L2 M3 DWV Plastic pipe: PB PE PVC CPVC4 ABS Thick wall Medium wall 3 Thin wall 4 CPVC is used for cold- and hot-water lines.
1 2

RIGID * * * * * * * *

FLEXIBLE

SYSTEM WATER WASTE * * * * *

* *

* * *

* * *

* *

* * *

* *

a. Galvanized-Steel/Iron Pipe. Galvanized-steel/iron pipe (Figure 1-1) can be used for hot- and cold-water supply distribution, certain drainage applications, and vent installations. It is made from mild carbon steel and is galvanized to prevent rust. It is joined with a threaded joint in pipe-to-pipe or pipe-to-fitting connections. This pipe comes in three strengths: (1) standard, (2) extra strong, and (3) double extra strong. The definitions Schedule 40 and Schedule 80 also describe pipe strengths. Schedule 40 standard is most commonly used in plumbing. Galvanized-steel/iron pipe should not be used underground and should be stored in a dry place. If the pipe ends are threaded, they must be protected from damage. This pipe comes in 21-foot lengths.

Figure 1-1. Galvanized-Steel/Iron Pipe

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b. Copper Tubing. Copper tubing (Figure 1-2) is lightweight, easily joined, and corrosion-resistant. It can be rigid or flexible and it is classified by its wall thickness. It is used for hot- and cold-water supply lines, certain drainage applications, and venting. Rigid copper tubing is hard-tempered and comes in 20-foot lengths. It does not bend, so changes in direction must be made with fittings. Flexible copper tubing is soft tempered, easily bent for changes in direction, and comes in coils of 40 to 100 feet.
Rigid

L Flexible

Figure 1-2. Copper Tubing K is a thick-walled, rigid or flexible copper tubing available in 20-foot lengths or 100-foot coils. Diameter sizes range from 1/4 inch to 12 inches. L is a medium-walled, rigid or flexible copper tubing available in 20-foot lengths or 100-foot coils. Diameter sizes are the same as K. M is a thin-walled, rigid copper tubing available in 20-foot lengths. Diameter sizes are the same as K. Drain, waste, and vent (DWV) copper tubing is available in 20-foot lengths. Diameter sizes range from 1 1/4 to 8 inches.

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c.

Plastic Pipe. Plastic pipe (Figure 1-3) is lightweight and can be rigid or flexible. It

is easily joined and is corrosion-resistant. It can be used for water supply or waste systems. It is used for hot- or cold-water piping and for DWV piping. Plastic pipe is joined with solvent cement. Plastic pipe is classified by the acronym for the type of material from which it is made. (1) Polyvinyl chloride (PVC). PVC pipe is cream or white colored and used only for cold-waterlines, sanitary drainage, and venting. It comes in 10- and 20-foot lengths. Diameter sizes range from 1/2 to 6 inches. (2) Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC). CPVC pipe is light or cream colored and used for hot-waterlines. It can also be used for cold-water lines. It comes in 10-foot lengths. Diameter sizes are 1/2 and 3/4 inch. (3) Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS). ABS pipe is black or gray and used for aboveground and belowground sanitary drainage and venting. It comes in 10- and 20-foot lengths. Diameter sizes range from 1 1/4 to 6 inches. (4) Polybutylene (PB). PB pipe is black or dark gray and used for cold-water lines. It is available in 100-foot coils or more. Diameter sizes range from 3/4 to 2 inches. It is costly, requires special fittings, and is not widely used. (5) Polyethylene (PE). PE pipe is black and used for cold-water lines and sprinkler systems. It comes in 100-foot coils. Diameter sizes range from 3/4 to 2 inches. NOTE: Check local plumbing codes to determine if the plastic pipe is authorized for installation.

PB and PE

Figure 1-3. Flexible Plastic Pipe

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d. Engagements. A pipe engagement is the distance the pipe goes into a fitting. This distance is determined by the nominal size diameter of the pipe. Table 1-2 shows the correct pipe engagement into a fitting based on the type of piping material and the nominal size diameter of the pipe. Table 1-2. Pipe Engagement in Fittings
Type of Fitting Material Nominal Size Diameter (in inches) 1/8 1/4 3/8 1/2 3/4 1 1 1/4 1 1/2 2 3 1/4 3/8 1/2 3/4 1 1 1/4 1 1/2 Copper (solder) 1/2 3/4 1 1 1/4 1 1/2 2 3 4 Plastic (solvent cement) 2 3 4 5 6 2 1/2 2 3/4 3 3 3 1/2 5/8 3/4 11/16 11/16 3/4 1 1/2 1 3/4 Approximate Pipe Engagement (in inches) 1/4 3/8 3/8 1/2 9/16 11/16 11/16 11/16 3/4 1 5/16 3/8 1/2 3/4 15/16 1 1/18

Steel, threaded (pipe-joint compound)

Cast-iron (oakum and lead)

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Fitting Dimension. A fitting dimension is needed when determining the amount of pipe required for installation. The fitting dimensions for all types of water supply fittings are determined in the same way. A fitting dimension is the distance from the center of the fitting to the end of the fitting (Figure 1-4).
e.

Fitting dimension

Figure 1-4. Determining a Fitting Dimension

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PART B: MEASURING THE PIPES 1-2. Determining Pipe Measurements. Fittings are part of a pipe-run length. The total-length measurement must include the distance (engagement) a pipe goes into a fitting and the dimension of the fitting. This part describes determinations and definitions of pipeline runs and plumbing measurements. a. End-to-Center Measurement. An end-to-center measurement is the distance between the end of the pipe and the center of the fitting. Use the formula: the length of pipe equals the end-to-center measurement minus the fitting dimension plus the pipe engagement (Figure 1-5). Figure 1-6 provides an example of the computation used for an end-to-center measurement. This method is the same for all types of piping.
Fitting dimension

End-to-center

Pipe engagement

Figure 1-5. End-to-Center Measurement

Fitting dimension End-to-center 48" 1"

Pipe engagement Pipe 1/2" End-to-center Minus fitting dimension Plus pipe engagement Length of pipe = = = = 48" 48" 1" = 47" 47" + 1/2" = 47 1/2" 47 1/2"

Figure 1-6. Computation Example for an End-to-Center Measurement

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b. Center-to-Center Measurement. A center-to-center measurement is used when pipe fittings are on each end of the pipe and is the distance between the centers of the fittings. Use the formula: the length of pipe equals the center-to-center measurement minus both fitting dimensions plus both pipe engagements (Figure 1-7). Figure 1-8 shows the computation used for a center-to-center measurement. This method is the same for all types of piping.
Fitting dimension

Center-to-center

Pipe Pipe engagement

Figure 1-7. Center-to-Center Measurement

1 1/4"

Fitting dimension Center-to-center 52"

1 1/4"

Pipe Pipe engagement 1/2" Center-to-center Minus both fitting dimensions Plus both pipe engagements Length of pipe = = = = 1/2" 52" 52" (1 1/4" + 1 1/4") 49 1/2" + (1/2" + 1/2") 50 1/2"

Figure 1-8. Computation Example for a Center-to-Center Measurement

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c. Face-to-Face Measurement. A face-to-face measurement is the distance between the faces of each fitting. Use the formula: length of pipe equals face-to-face measurement plus both pipe engagements (Figure 1-9). Figure 1-10 shows the computation used for a face-to-face measurement. This method is the same for all types of piping.

Face-to-face

Pipe engagement

Figure 1-9. Face-to-Face Measurement

Face-to-face 46"

Pipe Pipe engagement 1/2" Face-to-face Plus both pipe engagements Length of pipe = = = 46" 46" + 1/2" + 1/2" 47" 1/2"

Figure 1-10. Computation Example for a Face-to-Face Measurement

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PART C: PREPARING THE PIPING MATERIALS 1-3. Preparing Galvanized-Steel/Iron Pipe for a Joint Connection. The following processes may be required to prepare galvanized-steel/iron pipe for installation: cutting, removing burrs, and threading of the pipe ends. cutter. a. Cutting the Pipe. Table 1-3 explains how to cut a pipe, using a single-wheel pipe Table 1-3. Cutting the Pipe Using a Pipe Cutter

Handle Vise

Pipe

Single-wheel pipe cutter Measured mark

Cutting wheel

Step 1. Determine the length of the pipe, and mark the spot for the cut. Step 2. Lock the pipe tightly in a vise with the cutting mark about 8 inches from the vise. Step 3. Open the jaws of the cutter by turning the handle counterclockwise. Step 4. Place the cutter around the pipe with the cutting wheel exactly on the mark. The rollers will ensure that a straight cut is made. Step 5. Close the pipe cutter jaws lightly against the pipe by turning the handle clockwise. Step 6. Give the handle a quarter turn clockwise when the cutting wheel and rollers have made contact with the pipe. Step 7. Apply cutting oil, and rotate the cutter completely around the pipe by making a quarter turn on the handle for each complete revolution around the pipe. Continue the action until the pipe is cut. NOTE: When a pipe cutter is not available, use a hacksaw and ensure that the cut is as square as possible to simplify threading the pipe.

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b. pipe.

Removing Burrs. Table 1-4 explains how to remove burrs from the cut end of a Table 1-4. Removing Burrs

Vise

Pipe

Gloves

Pipe reamer

Step 1. Lock the pipe tightly in a vise or leave it in the vise from the cutting process. Step 2. Push the reamer into the pipe. Step 3. Turn the reamer clockwise in short, even strokes while keeping steady pressure against the pipe until all the inside burrs are removed from the cut end. Step 4. Use a fine-metal file to remove burrs from the outside of the pipe.

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c.

Threading Pipe Ends. Table 1-5 explains how to thread pipe ends. Table 1-5. Threading Pipe Ends

Steel pipe Stock handle

Vise

Diestock Gloves

Step 1. Insert the correct size die into the diestock. Step 2. Slide the diestock over the pipe, and apply pressure with one hand. Step 3. Turn the stock handle slowly clockwise (using the other hand) until the die has taken a bite on the pipe. Step 4. Apply cutting oil to the die as the stock handle is given one complete clockwise turn and backed off a quarter turn. Step 5. Repeat this action until 1/4 inch of the pipe is beyond the diestock. The pipe is now threaded properly. Step 6. Turn the handle in a counterclockwise direction to remove the pipe. NOTE: There are several types of threads, such as fine, course, and plumbing and pipefitting threads, identified as national pipe threads (NPT). Pipe threads are cut at a taper. Identify pipe dies as NPT to ensure that this is the type being used for pipe threading.

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1-4. Preparing Copper Tubing Ends for a Joint Connection. The following processes maybe required to prepare copper tubing for installation: cutting; removing burrs; and preparing soldered, flared, mechanical-compression, or swaged joints. a. Cutting the Copper Tubing. Table 1-6 explains how to cut the tubing, using a tube cutter or a fine-tooth hacksaw (32 teeth per inch). Table 1-6. Cutting the Copper Tubing

Tube cutter

Copper tubing

Cutting wheel

Hacksaw

Gloves Copper tubing

Miter box

Step 1. Determine the length of copper tubing required, and mark the spot for the cut. Step 2. Set the cutting wheel on the mark, and turn the cutter knob clockwise to get a bite on the tubing. Step 3. Hold the tubing firmly with one hand, and turn the cutter clockwise around the tubing with the other hand until the tubing is cut. Step 4. Use a fine-tooth hacksaw if a tube cutter is not available. This requires placing the copper tubing in a miter box to get a square cut.

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b. Removing Burrs. Push the reamer blade into the tubing, and turn the tubing clockwise with even strokes. Continue until all the burrs are removed from the cut end. c. Preparing a Soldered Joint. Soldered joints are used to connect rigid copper tubing. Figure 1-11 displays the tools and materials needed.

Solder wire

Emery cloth

FLUX

Wire brush Flux and brush Propane torch

Steel wool

Figure 1-11. Tools and Materials Needed for Soldered Joints

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d. Preparing a Flared Joint. A flared joint is used with flexible copper tubing. The flare on the end of the tubing can be made with a flaring tool or a flanging tool. Figure 1-12 displays the tools needed to prepare a flared joint.
Flared fitting Flared end

Flaring tool Flanging tool

Figure 1-12. Tools Needed for a Flared Joint

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e. Preparing a Mechanical-Compression Joint. A mechanical-compression joint is used to connect a fixtures water supply tubing to the shutoff valves. Figure 1-13 shows a mechanical-compression joint.
Fitting Compression nut

Compression ring

Tubing

Figure 1-13. Materials Needed for a Mechanical-Compression Joint f. Preparing a Swaged Joint. A swaged joint is used to connect two sections of rigid thin-walled copper tubing without using a fitting. The tools required are a swaging-tool set and a ball-peen hammer. Figure 1-14 displays the tools needed to prepare the tubing for a swaged joint.
Swaging-tool set

Ball-peen hammer

Figure 1-14. Tool Needed for a Swaged Joint

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1-5. Preparing Rigid and Flexible Plastic Pipes for Joint Connections. The following processes maybe required to prepare plastic pipe for installation: cutting, removing burrs, and preparing joints. Table 1-7 explains how to cut plastic pipe and remove burrs for joint preparation. Table 1-7. Cutting Plastic Pipe and Removing Burrs
Pocketknife

Miter box

Hacksaw

Pipe

Step 1. Determine the length of pipe required, and mark the spot for the cut. Step 2. Place the pipe in a miter box. and cut the pipe with a hacksaw or fine-tooth handsaw. Use a miter box to get a square cut. Step 3. Remove burrs from both the inside and outside of the pipe with a pocketknife. Use sandpaper if a pocketknife is not available.

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LESSON 1 PRACTICE EXERCISE Instructions: The following items will test your grasp of the material covered in this lesson. There is only one correct answer for each item. When you complete the exercise, check your answers with the answer key that follows. If you answer any item incorrectly, restudy that part of the lesson that contains the portion involved. 1. Identify the type of piping that is not used in a water supply system. A. B. C. D. 2. Cast-iron Copper tubing Galvanized-steel/iron Plastic

Refer to Table 1-8. What is the pipe engagement for 3/4-inch steel, threaded pipe? A. B. C. D. 3/8 inch 3/4 inch 9/16 inch 11/16 inch Table 1-8. Pipe Engagement

Steel, threaded (pipe-joint compound) Pipe Size (in inches) 3/8 1/2 3/4 1 1 1/4 Approximate Engagement Into a Hub (in inches) 3/8 1/2 9/16 11/16 11/16

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3.

Refer to Figure 1-15. What is the required length of pipe needed when using a face-to-face measurement? A. B. C. D. 50 1/2 inches 51 1/2 inches 52 1/2 inches 53 1/2 inches

Face-to-face 52"

Pipe Pipe engagement 3/4" 3/4"

Figure 1-15. Determining Length of a Pipe 4. Which fitting shown in Figure 1-16 shows a correct fitting dimension?

Figure 1-16. Fitting Dimension

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5.

When do you apply the cutting oil in threading a galvanized-steel/iron pipe? A. B. C. D. Before you begin After each complete turn After each complete turn and backed off a quarter turn After each complete turn and backed off a half turn

6.

Refer to Figure 1-17. What is the length of pipe when you use an end-to-center measurement? A. B. C. D. 47 3/4 inches 45 3/4 inches 44 3/4 inches 43 3/4 inches

48" 1 3/4"

4"

Figure 1-17. Determining Length of a Pipe 7. What tool is used to cut galvanized-steel/iron pipe? A. B. C. D. Cross saw Pipe saw Pipe cutter Rip saw

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8.

What two tools are used to flare the ends of flexible copper tubing? A. B. C. D. Swaging and flanging Flaring and flanging Swaging and flaring Flanging and swatting

9.

What tool is used to cut plastic pipe? A. B. C. D. Knife Hacksaw Coping saw Back saw

10.

What type of plastic pipe can be used on both a water supply system and a waste system? A. B. C. D. ABS PB PE PVC

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LESSON 1 PRACTICE EXERCISE ANSWER KEY AND FEEDBACK 1. Identify the type of piping that is not used in a water supply system. A. B. C. D. 2. Cast-iron (Table 1-1) Copper tubing Galvanized-steel/iron Plastic

Refer to Table 1-8. What is the pipe engagement for 3/4-inch steel, threaded pipe? A. B. C. D. 3/8 inch 3/4 inch 9/16 inch (Table 1-2) 11/16 inch Table 1-8. Pipe Engagement

Steel, threaded (pipe-joint compound) Pipe Size (in inches) 3/8 1/2 3/4 1 1 1/4 Approximate Engagement Into a Hub (in inches) 3/8 1/2 9/16 11/16 11/16

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3.

Refer to Figure 1-15. What is the required length of pipe needed when using a face-to-face measurement? A. B. C. D. 50 1/2 inches 51 1/2 inches 52 1/2 inches 53 1/2 inches (paragraph 1-2c and Figure 1-10)

Face-to-face 52"

Pipe Pipe engagement 3/4" 3/4"

Figure 1-15. Determining Length of a Pipe 4. Which fitting shown in Figure 1-16 shows a correct fitting dimension?

B (paragraph 1-1e and Figure 1-4)

Figure 1-16. Fitting Dimension

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5.

When do you apply the cutting oil in threading a galvanized-steel/iron pipe? A. B. C. D. Before you begin After each complete turn After each complete turn and backed off a quarter turn (Table 1-5) After each complete turn and backed off a half turn

6.

Refer to Figure 1-17. What is the length of pipe when you use an end-to-center measurement? A. B. C. D. 47 3/4 inches 45 3/4 inches (paragraph 1-2a and Figure 1-6) 44 3/4 inches 43 3/4 inches

48" 1 3/4"

4"

Figure 1-17. Determining Length of a Pipe 7. What tool is used to cut galvanized-steel/iron pipe? A. B. C. D. Cross saw Pipe saw Pipe cutter (paragraph 1-3a and Table 1-3) Rip saw

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8.

What two tools are used to flare the ends of flexible copper tubing? A. B. C. D. Swaging and flanging Flaring and flanging (paragraph 1-4d and Figure 1-12) Swaging and flaring Flanging and swatting

9.

What tool is used to cut plastic pipe? A. B. C. D. Knife Hacksaw (Table 1-7) Coping saw Back saw

10.

What type of plastic pipe can be used on both a water supply system and a waste system? A. B. C. D. ABS PB PE PVC (Table 1-1)

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LESSON 2 ROUGH-IN WATER SUPPLIES AND WATER SUPPLY PIPELINE RUNS Critical Task: 052-248-1002 OVERVIEW LESSON DESCRIPTION: This lesson covers the installation of stops (valves) and fittings on water supply pipeline runs. This lesson also covers the installation and support of these pipeline runs during the building construction phase and testing the water supply system for leaks. TERMINAL LEARNING OBJECTIVE: ACTION: CONDITION: STANDARD: REFERENCES: You will learn to describe the procedures used to connect, install, and support a rough-in water supply system. You will be given the material contained in this lesson. You will correctly answer the practice exercise questions at the end of this lesson. The material contained in this lesson was derived from FM 3-34.471 and TM 5-551K. INTRODUCTION As the water supply pipeline runs are installed with fittings, they must be supported with hangers and holders. Many times, a plumber must cut into the building structure to place water supply pipeline runs to service lavatories, sinks, and water closets that are to be installed. The plumber also tests the rough-in water supply system for leaks when it is completely installed.

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PART A: INSTALLING STOPS (VALVES) 2-1. Stops. A water supply service starts outside the building at the water main and then enters the building. Tap the water main with a self-tapping machine, and lay a water service line with stops (valves) to enter the building in the basement or crawl space. The water supply service water line to a building has three stops: corporation, curb, and meter (Figure 2-1).

Road

Grade Meter stop

Water main

Stop box Curb stop

Shutoff (gate valve) Building foundation

Corporation stop

Figure 2-1. Corporation, Curb, and Meter Stops a. Installing a Corporation Stop. Water mains are usually cast iron, 8 inches or more in diameter. If the main is less than 8 inches in diameter, the tap should be 2 inches or smaller. Table 2-1 explains how to tap into a water main and install a corporation stop, using a watermain self-tapping machine.

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Table 2-1. Tapping a Water Main

Friction collar

Ratchet handle Boring bar Feed yoke

Cap

Cylinder

Flap-valve handle

Bypass

Flap valve

Saddle

Gasket Water main Combination drill and tap Step 1. Dig to expose the pipe at the point where the tap is to be made. Dig as close to the top of the water main as possible.

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Step 2. Clean all dirt and rust off the pipe at the point. Step 3. Place the gasket of the water-main self-tapping machine on the pipe, and set the saddle of the machine on the gasket. Step 4. Wrap the chain around the pipe, and tighten it to clamp the water main self-tapping machine to the pipe. Step 5. Remove the cap from the cylinder of the machine, and place the combination drill and tap in the boring bar. Step 6. Reassemble the machine by putting the boring bar through the cylinder and tightening the cap. Step 7. Open the flap valve between the compartments. Step 8. Start drilling the hole by applying pressure at the feed yoke and turning the ratchet handle until the drill enters the main. Step 9. Back off the feed yoke when the tap starts threading the hole to prevent stripping the threads. Step 10. Continue to turn the boring bar until the ratchet handle can no longer be turned without extra force. Step 11. Remove the tap from the hole by reversing the ratchet. Then back the boring bar out by turning it counterclockwise. Step 12. Close the flap valve between the upper and lower compartments. Step 13. Drain the water from the cylinder through the bypass. Step 14. Remove the cap and drill tool. Place a corporation stop in the boring bar, ensuring that the stop is closed. Step 15. Repeat steps 6 and 7. Step 16. Turn the ratchet handle to thread the corporation stop into the pipe. Step 17. Repeat step 13. Step 18. Remove the cap from the cylinder, and unbolt the boring bar from the corporation stop. Step 19. Remove the lower chamber from the pipe. Step 20. Inspect for leaks. Step 21. Tighten the corporation stop with a suitable wrench, if it leaks.

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Installing a Curb Stop. Curb and meter stops control the water entering the building. Table 2-2 explains how to install a curb stop.
b.

Table 2-2. Curb Stop

Earth grade Curb Stop box

Street

Building

Curb stop

Water service line

Step 1. Position the curb stop in a suitable place between the curb and the building. Step 2. Set the curb stop in a cast-iron stop box that has a variable telescopic length. Step 3. Join the curb stop to the service piping with a compression joint when using copper tubing for the water service. NOTE: The curb stop provides a shutoff of the water supply outside a building.

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c. Installing a Meter Stop. After running the water service lines through the side of the building and closing the holes around the service pipe with waterproof cement, install the water meter and meter stop. The meter stop is a ground-joint valve, which controls and shuts off the flow of water into the building. Table 2-3 explains how to install a meter stop. Table 2-3. Meter Stop

Meter stop

Shutoff (gate valve) Building foundation Step 1. Place the meter stop as near as possible to where the water service pipe enters the building. Step 2. Position the water meter near the meter stop valve. Step 3. Open the meter stop valve to measure the amount of water being used in the building.

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PART B: USING FITTINGS ON WATER SUPPLY PIPELINE RUNS 2-2. Galvanized-Steel/Iron Fittings. This part shows threaded drainage fittings used for galvanized-steel/iron pipes and explains how to make a threaded joint connection. Ts (Figure 2-2) are used when a water supply pipeline run branches at a 90-degree angle. Elbows (Figure 2-3) are used to change the direction of a water supply pipeline run. Couplings (Figure 2-4) are used to connect two lengths of pipe.

Branch

Run Standard T Branch Run

Outlet

Branch Run

Outlet Side-outlet T NOTE: Branch and run can be reversed.

Outlet Reducing T (internal)

Reducing T (external)

Figure 2-2. Ts

90 elbow

45 elbow

Y-elbow (or side-outlet elbow)

Street elbow

Reducing elbow

Figure 2-3. Elbows

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Standard coupling

Reducing coupling

Eccentric reducing coupling

Extension piece

Figure 2-4. Couplings 2-3. Joint Connections. The threads of drainage fittings are at a slight angle (Figure 2-5). This angle causes horizontal drainage pipes to slope about 1/4 inch per foot. Table 2-4 explains how to make a threaded joint connection.

1/4" slope per foot Fitting

90 angle

Pipe

Figure 2-5. Slope of Horizontal Drainage Pipes

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Table 2-4. Making a Threaded Joint Connection

Pipe Joint Compound

Pipe Pipe threads

Fitting

Wrench

Step 1. Check the fitting threads for cleanliness and damage. If necessary, clean with a wire brush or replace the fitting. Step 2. Repeat step 1 for the pipe threads. Step 3. Apply pipe joint compound or Teflon tape to the pipe threads only. Step 4. Screw the fitting on hand tight. Step 5. Tighten the fitting, using two pipe wrenches. Use one pipe wrench on the fitting and the other on the pipe, turning clockwise.

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2-4. Copper Fittings. Various types of copper tubing fittings for soldered and compression joints are shown in Figure 2-6. The preparation for each type of joint will be described in greater detail.

90 elbow

45 elbow

Male adapter

Female adapter Solder Fittings

Coupling

90 elbow

45 elbow

Male adapter

Female adapter

Coupling

Copper Compression Fittings

Figure 2-6. Fittings for Copper Tubing

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2-5. Joint Connections for Copper Tubing. There are several different types of joints for copper tubing. A soldered joint is used to connect rigid copper tubing; a flared joint is used with flexible copper tubing; a mechanical-compression joint is used with flexible copper tubing to connect the water supply tubing of a fixture to the shutoff valve; and a swaged joint is used to connect two sections of rigid thin-walled copper tubing without using a fitting. a. Soldered Joint. Soldered joint connections for copper tubing are made with flux, solder, and a heat source. The flux permits even spreading of molten solder over the surfaces soldered. The molten solder flows into the space between the fitting and the tubing. Table 2-5 explains how to make a soldered joint. Table 2-5. Soldered Joint
Flux

Fitting

50-50 Solder

Torch

Step 1. Inspect the end of the tubing to be sure it is round, free of burrs, and cut square. Step 2. Clean the outside end of the tubing and the inside of the fitting to a bright shine with emery cloth or fine steel wool. Step 3. Apply a thin coat of flux to the shined end of the tubing and fitting. Step 4. Push the fitting on the tubing, and give it a quarter turn to spread the flux evenly. Step 5. Heat the connection with a torch, applying the flame on the fitting. Step 6. Apply the solder to the joint when the flux is bubbling. The solder will flow into and completely around the joint. Step 7. Clean the joint, using a clean rag. NOTE: A well-soldered joint should have an even bead around the entire joint.

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b. Flared Joint. A flared joint is used with flexible copper tubing. The flare on the end of the tubing can be made with a flaring or flanging tool. Table 2-6 explains how to make a flared joint, using a flaring tool or a flanging tool. Table 2-6. Flared Joint
Flanging tool

Flaring tool

Nut wing Copper tubing Flange nut

Ball-peen hammer

Step 1. Inspect the end of the tubing to ensure that it is free of burrs and is cut square. Step 2. Remove the flange nut from the fitting, and slide its unthreaded end onto the tubing first. Step 3. Flare the end of the tubing with either a flaring tool or a flanging tool.

Flaring tool method. Loosen the wing nuts on the flaring tool, and place the tubing in the correct size hole. Make the tubings end even with the tools surface. Tighten the wing nuts. Turn the yoke cone down into the tubing until the flare fills the beveled pad of the hole. Flanging tool method. Hold the flanging tool on the end of the tubing so it is centered and straight. Tap the flanging tool, using a ball-peen hammer, until the flare fills the recess in the flanging nut.

Step 4. Slide the flare/compression nut up to the flared end, and screw it on the fitting hand tight, then tighten the flare/compression nut.

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c. Mechanical-Compression Joint. A mechanical-compression joint is used with flexible copper tubing to connect the water supply tubing of a fixture to the shutoff valve. Table 2-7 explains how to complete a mechanical-compression joint. Table 2-7. Mechanical-Compression Joint
Fitting Compression nut

Compression ring Step 1. Cut or bend the tubing to the required length. Step 2. Slide the compression nut onto the tubing. Step 3. Slide the compression ring onto the tubing. Step 4. Screw the compression nut onto the fitting by hand.

Tubing

Step 5. Tighten the nut. The ring compresses to form a sealed leakproof joint.

2-13

d. Swaged Joint. A swaged joint is used to connect two sections of rigid thin-walled copper tubing without using a fitting. The connection is soldered to form a leakproof joint. The tools required are a swaging-tool set and a ball-peen hammer. Table 2-8 explains how to complete a swaged joint. Table 2-8. Swaged Joint

Swaging tool

Ball-peen hammer

Swaging tool Swaged end

Copper tubing

Step 1. Inspect the tubing end to make sure it is free of burrs and is cut square. Step 2. Place the correct size swaging tool into the tubing (with one hand), centered and straight. Step 3. Tap the swaging tool firmly with the ball-peen hammer to enlarge the end of the tubing. Step 4. Connect the two sections of tubing, and solder the joint.

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2-6. Fittings for Rigid and Flexible Plastic Pipe. The various types of fittings for rigid and flexible plastic pipes are shown in Figure 2-7. The preparation for each type of pipe and fitting attachment will be described in greater detail.

90 elbow

45 elbow

Coupling

Solvent Weld

90 elbow Slip

Coupling

Male adapter

Sanitary T

Vent T

Long sweep T

Sanitary Pipe

Figure 2-7. Fittings for Rigid and Flexible Plastic Pipes

2-15

a. Completing a Solvent-Cement Weld Joint. This joint is made by using a cleaning primer and solvent cement on the pipe and fitting. Solvent cement consists of a plastic filler (same material for each type of plastic pipe) dissolved in a mixture of solvents. Use the appropriate solvent cement for the type of pipe being used. The solvent cement melts the plastic of the pipe and the fitting to weld them together. Since solvent cement sets fast, a plastic pipe joint is completed quickly. Table 2-9 explains how to join rigid plastic pipe with a solventcement weld joint. Table 2-9. Solvent-Cement Weld Joint
Pipe Fitting

Solvent cement

Step 1. Inspect the pipe end for burrs and the fitting for cracks. Step 2. Clean the pipe and the inside of the fitting with an authorized cleaning primer, using a clean rag. Step 3. Coat the outside of the pipe end and the inside of the fitting with solvent cement. Step 4. Push the pipe as quickly as possible into the fitting as far as it will go. A small bead of cement will be visible. Step 5. Give the fitting a quarter turn to spread the solvent cement evenly. Step 6. Hold the joint connection for about 30 seconds to be sure it is solidly set. Step 7. Wipe off all excess cement.

2-16

b. Completing an Insert Fitting Joint. This joint is made by sliding and clamping flexible plastic pipe onto an insert fitting. Table 2-10 explains how to join flexible plastic pipe with an insert fitting joint. Table 2-10. Insert Fitting Joint
Clamp Insert fitting Clamp

Flexible pipe

Step 1. Slide a clamp over the flexible pipe. Step 2. Push the pipe onto the insert fitting to the last serration. Step 3. Slide the clamp over the pipe, and tighten the clamp with a screwdriver.

PART C: INSTALLING WATER SUPPLY PIPELINE RUNS 2-7. Water Supply Pipeline Runs. Install the water supply pipeline runs during the building construction. The following steps will make it easier to rough-in water supply pipeline runs with fittings, support these pipeline runs, and test the rough-in water supply system joints for leaks. The water supply pipeline runs consist of distribution lines, branch lines, and riser lines that will service the fixtures or equipment. a. Main Distribution Lines. Install this waterline, with all fittings required for the branch lines, between or through the floor joist from the meter stop. The pipe size will be the same as the water service line.

2-17

b. Branch Lines. From the fittings on the distribution line, install the branch lines between or through the floor joist to those fixture points that the fixture riser lines will service. c. Fixture Riser Lines. Table 2-11 shows how the different waterlines connect to complete the water supply system and explains how to install fixture supply pipe risers. Table 2-11. Main Distribution, Branch, and Fixture Riser Lines

Cap Air chamber T Wall stud Floor joist Fixture riser line Sole plate 90 elbow

Branch line T with nipple and a 90 elbow Hot-water distribution line from water heater Cold-water distribution line from meter stop

Step 1. Install fixture supply pipe risers from the branch line fittings by drilling holes through the sole plate or floor. Step 2. Set the risers with fittings to connect the water supply. Step 3. Set the air chamber to control the pipe noise.

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2-8.

Water Supply Pipeline Runs.

a. Installing Water Supply Pipeline Runs Through a Floor Joist. Table 2-12 explains how to install rough-in water supply pipeline runs through a floor joist. Table 2-12. Installing Water Supply Pipeline Runs

Floor joist

Hole

Step 1. Determine which water supply pipeline runs require installation through the floor joist. Step 2. Find the center of the floor joist. Step 3. Drill a hole through the center of the joist. The hole cannot be larger than 1/4 of the depth of the joist. For example, if you are using a 2- by 8-inch joist, the hole cannot be any larger than 2 inches.

2-19

b. Notching and Bracing a Joist. Notches can be at the top or bottom of a joist. The notch width should be slightly larger than the outside diameter of the pipe. Table 2-13 explains how to cut a notch in a joist and to brace the joist. Table 2-13. Notching and Bracing a Joist

2" x 8" floor joist

Handsaw Depth of the notch

Width of the notch

Wood chisel

Steel plate

2" x 2" boards Step 1. Determine the width of the notch. Step 2. Cut both sides of the notch to the proper depth with a handsaw. The notch depth can be no more than a quarter of the joist depth. For example, if the joist depth is 8 inches, then the maximum notch depth would be 2 inches (1/4 of 8 = 2) Step 3. Use a hammer and a sharp wood chisel to cut away the wood between the notch cuts. Step 4. Place a 2- by 2-inch board on each side of the joist when the notch is on the top. Step 5. Center boards under the notch and nail in place. Step 6. Center a steel plate over the notch when it is on the bottom of the joist. Step 7. Nail the plate into place.

2-20

c. stud.

Cutting and Bracing a Wall Stud. Table 2-14 explains how to cut and brace a wall Table 2-14. Cutting and Bracing a Wall Stud

Pipeline run

Depth of notch Width of the notch based on pipe size

Brace steel plate

Depth of stud

Wall stud

Step 1. Cut the notch from the top or bottom half of the stud. A notch cut from the top cannot be greater than 1/2 of the depth of the stud. A notch cut from the bottom cannot be greater than 1/3 of the depth of the stud. Step 2. Ensure that the width of the cut-out notch is able to take the pipe size to be installed. Step 3. Measure the depth of the wall stud before cutting notches. Step 4. Brace all notch cuts in the wall studs with water supply pipeline runs. Step 5. Ensure that the studs with the notch cuts have a steel plate centered over the notch. Step 6. Nail the plate into place.

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PART D: SUPPORTING WATER SUPPLY PIPELINE RUNS 2-9. Pipe Supports. Horizontal and vertical water supply pipeline runs with fittings must be supported. The length of the pipeline runs, their locations, and the joints will determine where to place the pipe supports. There are many types of pipe supports designed to hang or support the pipeline run (Figure 2-8). The building material and types of pipes will, in many cases, determine the kind of supports to use.

Pipe strap

Common hanger

Adjustable hanger Wall hanger Common hanger

Figure 2-8. Pipe Hangers

2-22

a. Supporting Horizontal Water Pipes. Use tube clamps, U-hooks or self-nailing hooks, perforated bands, and one-hole clamps to support a horizontal water supply pipeline run to a joist. Figure 2-9 shows these types of pipe supports.

Joist

One-hole clamp

Tube clamp

Pipe

Figure 2-9. Supporting Horizontal Water Pipes

2-23

b. Supporting Vertical Water Pipes. Use wood blocking to attach the pipe supports (Figure 2-10). The pipe supports that can be used to support a vertical water piping run are tube clamps, one-hole clamps, and perforated bands.
Stud

Wood blocking

Pipe Tube clamp

Sole plate

Figure 2-10. Supporting Vertical Water Pipes

2-24

PART E: TESTING THE WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM FOR LEAKS 2-10. Water Supply System Test. Once the rough-in water supply system is completed, test the system for leaks, using the water test or air test. Locate and repair any leaks at once, and retest the system. a. Water Supply System Test. Table 2-15 explains how to test a system with water. Table 2-15. Water Supply System Test

Cap

All T openings are capped during the test Wall stud Floor joist Sole plate

From water heater 90 elbow

T with nipple and a 90 elbow From meter stop Step 1. Seal the branches and vent lines, and place a test plug in the test T. Step 2. Fill the system with water, and check for a drop in the water level. Step 3. Check each joint for leaks if the water level drops noticeably. The test is satisfactory if the water level does not fall more than 4 inches in a 30-minute period. Step 4. Make leaking joints watertight, and replace any defective material.

2-25

b. Air Test. A special plug, through which air is pumped into the water supply system, is required for this test. Perform an air test, using the following steps: Step 1. Apply an air pressure of about 5 pounds per square inch (measured by a gauge). Step 2. A drop in the mercury column on the gauge shows a leaky joint. In a satisfactory test, the line should hold 5 pounds per square inch for 15 minutes. Step 3. Listen for the sound of escaping air to help locate leaks. If no sound is heard and pressure is falling, apply a soap solution to the joints in the area of the leak. If there is a leak, bubbles will form.

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LESSON 2 PRACTICE EXERCISE Instructions: The following items will test your grasp of the material covered in this lesson. There is only one correct answer for each item. When you complete the exercise, check your answers with the answer key that follows. If you answer any item incorrectly, restudy that part of the lesson that contains the portion involved. 1. Identify which of the following is not a stop for a service water line to a building. A. B. C. D. 2. Building stop Corporation stop Curb stop Meter stop

Which of the following stops shuts off the water supply outside of the building? A. B. C. D. Building stop Corporation stop Curb stop Meter stop

Where is the pipe joint compound applied for a threaded drainage fitting joint for galvanized-steel/iron pipe? A. B. C. D. Fitting threads only Pipe threads only Pipe and fitting threads All threads

4.

Where is the heat applied to make a soldered joint for copper tubing? A. B. C. D. Pipe Flux Fitting Solder 2-27

5.

Identify which of the following is not a type of copper tubing joint connection. A. B. C. D. Soldered joint Flared joint Mechanical-compression joint Solvent-cement weld joint

6.

What is the largest-sized hole that can be drilled though the center of a 2- by 8-inch floor joist for a pipeline run? A. B. C. D. 1 inch 2 inches 3 inches 4 inches

7.

What is the maximum depth that a notch can be cut in a floor joist? A. B. C. D. 1/4 of the joist depth 1/3 of the joist depth 1/2 of the joist depth 2/3 of the joist depth

8.

What is the maximum depth that a notch can be cut at the bottom of a wall stud? A. B. C. D. 1/4 of the depth of the stud 1/3 of the depth of the stud 1/2 of the depth of the stud 2/3 of the depth of the stud

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9.

What is used to brace the bottom of a joist or the lower half of a wall stud? A. B. C. D. Steel plate Wood blocking Pipe strap Plastic plate

10.

What is the number of minutes water is kept in a rough-in water supply system during a water test? A. B. C. D. 15 20 25 30

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LESSON 2 PRACTICE EXERCISE ANSWER KEY AND FEEDBACK 1. Identify which of the following is not a stop for a service water line to a building. A. B. C. D. 2. Building stop (paragraph 2-1 and Figure 2-1) Corporation stop Curb stop Meter stop

Which of the following stops shuts off the water supply outside of the building? A. B. C. D. Building stop Corporation stop Curb stop (Table 2-2) Meter stop

Where is the pipe joint compound applied for a threaded drainage fitting joint for galvanized-steel/iron pipe? A. B. C. D. Fitting threads only Pipe threads only (Table 2-4) Pipe and fitting threads All threads

4.

Where is the heat applied to make a soldered joint for copper tubing? A. B. C. D. Pipe Flux Fitting (Table 2-5) Solder

2-30

5.

Identify which of the following is not a type of copper tubing joint connection. A. B. C. D. Soldered joint Flared joint Mechanical-compression joint Solvent-cement weld joint (paragraphs 2-5 and 2-6a)

6.

What is the largest-sized hole that can be drilled though the center of a 2- by 8-inch floor joist for a pipeline run? A. B. C. D. 1 inch 2 inches (Table 2-12) 3 inches 4 inches

7.

What is the maximum depth that a notch can be cut in a floor joist? A. B. C. D. 1/4 of the joist depth (Table 2-13) 1/3 of the joist depth 1/2 of the joist depth 2/3 of the joist depth

8.

What is the maximum depth that a notch can be cut at the bottom of a wall stud? A. B. C. D. 1/4 of the depth of the stud 1/3 of the depth of the stud (Table 2-14) 1/2 of the depth of the stud 2/3 of the depth of the stud

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9.

What is used to brace the bottom of a joist or the lower half of a wall stud? A. B. C. D. Steel plate (Tables 2-13 and 2-14) Wood blocking Pipe strap Plastic plate

10.

What is the number of minutes water is kept in a rough-in water supply system during a water test? A. B. C. D. 15 20 25 30 (Table 2-15)

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APPENDIX A LIST OF COMMON ACRONYMS ABS CPVC DWV EN FM MOS NPT PB PE PVC TM acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene chlorinate polyvinyl chloride drain, waste, and vent engineer field manual military occupational specialty national pipe threads polybutylene polyethylene polyvinyl chloride technical manual

A-1

APPENDIX B RECOMMENDED READING LIST The following publications provide additional information about the material in the subcourse. You do not need this material to complete the subcourse. FM 3-34.471. Plumbing, Pipe Fitting, and Sewerage. 31 August 2001. TM 5-551K. Plumbing and Pipefitting. 29 July 1971.

B-1

APPENDIX C METRIC CONVERSION CHART This appendix complies with current Army directives which state that the metric system will be incorporated into all new publications. Table C-1 is a metric conversion chart. Table C-1. Metric Conversion Chart
US Units Feet Inches Inches Inches Metric Units Centimeters Meters Meters Millimeters Multiplied By 0.30480 2.54000 0.02540 25.40010 Multiplied By 0.39370 3.28080 39.37000 0.03937 Metric Units Meters Centimeters Meters Millimeters US Units Inches Feet Inches Inches

C-1