Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Supplemento al n. 239, giugno-luglio-agosto 2011 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 02/2011 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718
A FOCUS ON WEDDING CAKES AN INTERVIEW WITH GARY RULLI GELATO FESTIVAL ITALIAN RECIPES AT INTERNATIONAL COMPETITIONS CUISINE TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCTS NEWS
issue nineteen-2011
CHIRIOTTI EDITORI
RE
GIS
TE
MADE IN ITALY
Made of 100% food-safe platinic silicone Flexible, practical and easy to unmold No need of blowtorch nor cling film Reduction of production time Sold individually or in a set including a 60 x 40 cm polycarbonate shockproof tray Easy to store Insert moulds available
Via Tagliamento, 78 - 30030 Mellaredo di Pianiga (VE) - Italy Tel. +39 041 5190550 Fax +39 041 5190290
www.silikomart.com
In this issue A focus on wedding cakes And that makes eight The 12th World Pastry Cup Success for the first Juniores Pastry World Cup Gelato festival A busy autumn for Identita Golose A healthy contrast Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Livia Chiriotti SENIOR EDITOR Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti NEWS EDITORS Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino Monica Onnis ASSISTANT EDITOR Chiara Comba TRANSLATIONS Alexander Martin MARKETING EDITOR Monica Pagliardi ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Luigi Voglino voglino@chiriottieditori.it ART DIRECTOR Studio Impagina PRINTED BY Tipografia Giuseppini Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright 2011 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house
Supplement of Pasticceria Internazionale n. 239 June - July - August 2011 ON OUR COVER Natural lemon Alessandro Racca
News
Compact quality preservation 190th anniversary of Sangue Morlacco From appetizer to dessert 2nd place for Italy at the European Bakery Cup In Cortemilia, the best hazelnut dessert of Italy Pure vanilla products A new egg, lemon and cinnamon dessert Double Salon du Chocolat in Paris A consultant as a friend The 5th gelato World Cup in Sigep Expos and events in Italy Italian quality conquers the US professional market Trendy fantasy 1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition Small Temptations Sigep 2012 highlights confectionery worldwide Cutting boards with antibacterial disposable films Micron ball refiner Ciocofantasy in Cornigliano
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PASTRY
3-D butterflies
The butterfly cake has a traditional sponge base filled with vanilla butter cream and chocolate chips. The sponge is lightly soaked, only on the inside, using a liquid aroma, that is high in sugar content, flavoured with orange juice or strawberry. A thin spread of white butter cream enables a complete covering with the sugar mass. The decoration consists of previously prepared icing butterflies.
Royal icing
egg whites sifted icing sugar lemon juice g g g 40 350 12
Whisk the egg whites, add the icing sugar and beat, lightly at first, then once with the sugar incorporated, at maximum speed for one minute. Add the lemon juice and beat for another minute.
On baking paper, draw the half butterflies (right and left side), then using the sac-poche make a few edges in icing, adding a few drops of water and possibly some colours of your choice. Let it dry for a day. The next day, fill in the spaces on the inside of the dry edge using more liquid icing of a different colour, depending on the request. Let it dry overnight. The next day, attach the wings with the icing and add the antennas; place them in an uneven mould that gives the effect of half-closed wings. The ideal is for the butterflies to be slightly different to each other, both regarding the opening of the wings and their shape, so as to look like different species. The work takes a long time, but the end result is worth it.
Gino Fabbri Bologna, Italy www.ginofabbri.com
PREPARATION
Very romantic pink butterflies take flight from the white cake, in an appealing three-dimensional display. Gino Fabbri decorates with a mass of sugar and frosting, instead of pulled sugar.
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ALESSANDRO DALMASSO of the Pasticceria Dalmasso of Avigliana, Turin, is widely regarded for his ceremonial cakes, from children's birthdays to weddings. There is a difference between eating an Italian cake and a sponge Dalmasso specifies but the aesthetics require a compromise. So I have it tasted first to make sure the two flavours are understood. I prefer clients to taste first in order to decide and understand what they are ordering, if anything so that they do not complain later. Many who ask for American Pie, after having tasted it, change idea." As for the covering, cream has constraints in terms of exposition times, both regarding delivery and climate; alternatively almond paste can be used. Alessandro adds: "Many customers do not understand and want the cream cake to remain on display for hours: in these cases I recommend a polystyrene cake with covering, decorations and frosting, while the one for eating is stored in the kitchen." www.pasticceriadalmasso.com
The sponge helps with the modelling, giving volume and lightness.
For more shiny and realistic effects (to be stored in the refrigerator), colour the flowers in coloured cocoa-butter frosting instead of the usual food colouring (photo Altaris).
This year we have a boom in requests for black & white wedding cakes , says STEFANO ZIZZOLA, owner of two pastry shops respectively in Noale, near Venezia, and Trebaleseghe, near Padova . Our typical cakes are usually white and ivory with floreal decorations (roses, orchids and callas) and most of them (80%) are based on two combinations of tastes. Bresciana Zizzola includes a crunchy and crumbly cocoa and almond short pastry base, a chocolate and coffee biscuit with a light mascarpone mousse, and it is covered with dark chocolate leaves. Angelina is composed of a crunchy hazelnut short pastry layer, a biscuit with Maraschino and a soft custard with roasted almonds. Otherwise, those who prefer more classical tastes can choose between a sponge cake or a multilayer millefeuille with chocolate cream or a chantilly with fresh raspberry pulp.
From left Stil, a double layer sugarpaste cake with chocolate flowers and ribbons. Rosa Vellutatas drapery, roses and leaves are made of plastic chocolate; the shiny effect is obtained sprinkling some pearly powder on its surface. Poesia is a readable cake: the verses chosen by the bride and bridegroom are written with a decorating tip. Calle is decorated with the classical flowers (foto Bononi).
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PASTRY
Heat to 40C eggs, sugar and glucose, whisk and after about 10 minutes drizzle in the honey and egg yolks, then the flour. Bake at 170C for about 25-30 minutes.
IRBBAF
Dissolve the gelatin with some of the cream and add the custard and the remaining cream, being careful not to form lumps of jelly. You should not use the cream very cold at this stage, because the cold could make the gelatine gel quickly forming lumps.
Almond paste to cover cake peeled almonds g 500 sugar g 1000 glucose g 260 fondant sugar g 2200
Pulverize the almonds in a refiner with the addition of a little sugar icing, then mix the lot, close tightly in clingfilm and let stand at room temperature for at least 10 hours.
Prepare the cake the day before, so as to cut it more easily. Each step of preparation is important to get a precise and neat result. Cut the cake into three pieces and soak with the berry sauce: on the first layer apply just cream and sprinkle with crushed caramelized hazelnuts; on the second, apply a layer of light cream and dried raspberries. Cover with the sponge and apply light cream to the surface; cool well. Remove from the mould; apply a thin layer of white butter cream. Cover with almond paste and decorate with icing, roses and sugar. Combine imagination with functionality. Ceremonial cakes are a serious undertaking and the bride and bridegroom are very demanding: the sweet must surprise yet at the same time be refined.
Francesco Elmi Regina di Quadri Pasticceria, Bologna www.reginadiquadri.eu Photo Giancarlo Bononi
This cake with a similar decoration appears in Il sacrificio di Isacco (The Sacrifice of Isaac), an artistic picture by the photographer Giancarlo Bononi, which is inspired by Caravaggios work. Bononi is the author of an impressive photo gallery reproducing the attitudes of the characters and the wonderful play of shadows and light of the original paintings, but having the models dressed with modern clothes and introducing a sweet element in each picture. Francesco Elmi is the one on the right (see also www.piwwe.com).
5 4
www.luxardo.it
NEWS
Nice delivers the full quality of an Irinox holding cabinet in a compact version suitable for professional kitchens and labs.
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Gary Rulli
Angelo Auriana
In February, Gary Rulli opened his eighth store in San Francisco, in keeping with his professional obligations: since 1988, a boundless respect for Italy
For 22 years, the Emporio Gran Caffe of Larkspur, not far from San Francisco (United States), is the kingdom of Gary and Jeannie Rulli. It is the quintessential Italian pastry shop, a caf and wine bar. Over time, this headquarters has been flanked by two cafes and a restaurant in Union Square in the heart of San Francisco, and four outlets at the international airport. We have written about Gary on a number of occasions (see Pasticceria Internazionale Nos. 60, 122, 129, 151, 231, 232). This professional, whose mother is Italian, is a shining example of a serious and determined entrepreneur. An honorary member of Accademia dei Maestri Pasticceri Italiani, he has a strong attachment to our country, which he visits often and celebrates both with his pastries and cuisine, but also through wines and his general education. Using entrepreneurial skill, a calm manner and an inquisitive and attentive spirit, Gary does not hold back on investments. Two of his most recent projects are in downtown San Francisco: the Bancarella Salumi Wine Bar on the busy Union Square (just opposite ano-
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PASTRY
On the left, gluttony in a glass: rum baba with caramelized pistachios, mandarin and orange sauce. Italian-style mignon.
cheese dishes, lamb meatballs with zucchini sauce, pizza and many other delicacies. An Italian spirit of course pervades the lot. This begs the question: how does Gary manage to run this company, while always remaining calm and approachable? It must have something to do with his wife and children (Giancarlo 20, and Alessandro 16), as well as his sister Lauren, who manages the various rooms, and who for the last three years has been accompanied by Randy Wilcox, director of operations. A proven team that runs the various activities: the operational heart remains the central laboratory of Larkspur, from which products leave for Union Square and, twice a day, to the retail outlets at the airport. GARYS WORLD "The more I learn, the more I am passionate about my work!". With his light eyes and kind look, Gary traces his career from the United States to Italy and then back to the United States.
I start early at the computer, checking sales in all stores; then I arrive at 7 in the laboratory to check all the orders of the week. I organise the team, beginning with the working of the yeast and doughs, both savoury and sweet. Then I have meetings with suppliers, with the director of operations and with the shop managers. I do some admin work, and then meet with staff until evening, when I supervise the restaurant.
You have a new passion to keep you busy, don't you?
At the beginning of 2010 I signed up for a university course on organic vegetable gardens, and I now also set aside some time for my vegetable patch at home. Last season I harvested over 25 pounds of tomatoes a day for the cafeteria and restaurant. It took two years to develop my own organic vegetable patch in the hills of San Rafael, where I can grow several varieties of lettuce, tomatoes, fresh herbs ... and even berries. It is a useful hobby that also relieves a lot of stress!
The cover of the 2011 calendar that the Emporio Rulli distributed to customers. The picture shows Union Square with one of Rulli's shops on the far right. On the right, petits fours clearly of Italian tradition.
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We cook three times a day: at 6, at 11 and at 9, supplying fresh products to the airport shops which are open from 5 a.m. to midnight, 365 days a
year, as well as the shops in Union Square, open from 7 to 22, 364 days a year. All the pastry is produced in Larkspur, except for what is made in Ristobar, which has its own production area.
How do you mix Italian culture with American tastes?
Since 1988 we have always aspired to be authentic. After more than 22 years, we still do not offer muffins, bagels or American-style cakes. It has not always been the easy way or the most profitable, but I think it has allowed us to be unique, proud of our craftsmanship and of our Italian roots.
New recipes, new tastes and new forms: how do you come up with innovations?
I have collected cookbooks and magazines for years. I believe in being continually up-to-date and I tend to personalise every recipe. I have good memories of when I was a trainee in Milan and Turin, and I often find myself looking for classic creations of the period, aiming to mix them with contemporary experiences.
What is your favourite dessert?
Without doubt the panettone and the whole range of leavened products for breakfast, as well as biscuits. Among the cakes, the San Francisco with baked meringue and fresh raspberries, and the Saint-Honor.
What festive leavened products do you offer?
In addition to the panettone and pandoro, the Yule Log, the Morenita (with meringue, fruit and whipped cream) and the Genoese, in addition to Befanini (aniseed biscuits), colombe, the pastiera and zeppole.
How do you see the future of our industry?
As a craftsman, I believe that we must continue to differentiate ourselves with quality, expanding our markets, and using the internet, not just selling more, but educating consumers and promoting the craftsman's way of doing things. Quality at the highest level is the only way forward.
http://rulli.com - ristobarsf.com
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19
PASTRY
SPRING
Rustic pistachio base caster sugar fresh egg whites powdered egg whites peeled almonds pistachios icing sugar yeast potato starch ground pistachios to decorate g 750 g 1500 g 10 g 800 g 1200 g 600 g 20 g 200 g 200
board, as decoration, and add a little icing sugar. Bake at 170C for 1520 minutes. Store in a freezer at -20C if required, or use immediately once cold.
Garnish mascarpone cream pistachio paste icing sugar whipped cream g g g g g 500 500 100 200 300
Grind almonds, icing sugar, potato starch, yeast, and pistachios in the blender to obtain a coarse mixture. Beat the egg whites until stiff, adding the sugar a little at a time. Wet the 3.5 cm high steel rings with water and pour the first mixture into the second one, being careful with the egg whites as in a normal sponge biscuit. With a pastry bag and a plain nozzle, make spirals on a baking sheet and then create spikes on the edge of the rings to get a border. Drop the crushed pistachios on the
Whisk the cream, mascarpone and pistachio paste. Add the whipped cream with sugar and mix until smooth. With a pastry bag, make spirals from the centre with the pistachio cream until you reach the edge of the rustic base. Cover the cream with fresh raspberries; sprinkle some pistachios and icing sugar over top. Store in refrigerator at 3C for 2 days at most.
Gary Rulli San Francisco, Usa
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color EX
plus EX
Futura r200
injection
comfit maxi
Via Statale, 151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria dAlba (CN) - Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 - www.selmi-group.it - info@selmi-group.it
CONTEST
Above, the Italian team. Shown here, Gabriel Paillasson interviewed by the speaker during the competition.
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ENCHANTMENT IS A PLATED DESSERT MADE WITH CUPCAKES, CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE, MASCARPONE GELATO, MASCARPONE CRMEUX, WHITE COFFEE AND AMALFI LEMON LIGHT MOUSSE.
ALCHEMY IS A GELATO CAKE MADE WITH SPONGE CAKE WITH PISTACHIO, PISTACHIO AND MASCARPONE GELATO, MANGO, BANANA AND STRAWBERRY SORBET, RASPBERRY GELLY, MERINGUE AND CITRUS PARFAIT.
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19
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CONTEST
g g
1,5 30
Melt the liquid butter and the chocolate, the praline and hazelnut paste. Mix well with the passion fruit powder and add the chopped crunchy. Spread on a thick bar.
Thin chocolate sponge cake yolks sugar egg whites sugar Ovoneve cocoa Valrhona 64% Tainori chocolate flour cream
g g g g g g g g g
Vanilla mascarpone cream sugar water yolks mascarpone cream Italgel Fast gelatin Tahiti vanilla bean Orizaba chocolate caramel caster sugar liquid butter butter Corman fresh cream glucose salt vanilla cocktail Orizaba chocolate cocoa butter Italgel Fast gelatin Sabl Breton egg yolks caster sugar butter flour baking powder salt
g g g g g g n. g g g g g g g g g g
Whisk the egg yolks slightly heated with sugar, whisk in the meantime the egg whites with sugar, cream of tartar and the Ovoneve. In the meantime, create an emulsion of chocolate and cream. Combine the two whipped masses, add the sieved powder and finally the emulsion of chocolate and cream. Spread thin, bake valve closed at 220C for about 8 minutes.
Custard base milk cream yolk sugar vanilla pod g g g g no. 345 230 128 58 1
Boil milk and cream with the vanilla, add egg yolks mixed in advance with the two sugars and bake at 83C. Strain and use immediately.
Manjari mousse custard Manjari chocolate 64% whipped cream uht Corman g g g 325 380 450
g g g g g g
Create an emulsion with the custard and hot chocolate, when the mixture is at 38C, lighten it with whipped cream.
Mango, passion fruit and banana gelatin passion fruit puree Ravifruit g mango puree g mashed banana g sugar g gelatin g water g
Whip the egg yolks with sugar. Meanwhile, sift together the flour and baking powder. When the yolks are installed, add the butter cream, then the mixture of flour and yeast. Spread then 5 mm on a plate and let it sit before cooking or store in a freezer, uncooked. Cook, fan on at 155160C.
63 38 25 25 28 14
Cocoa glaze water sugar cream uht Corman gelatin Italgelatine water cocoa gelatin g g g g g g g 50 376 416 32 160 135 500
Melt some of the puree with sugar and gelatin rehydrated, add the remaining puree, strain and reduce temperature.
Crunchy hazelnut Jivara milk chocolate 40% almonds and hazelnut praline 60% Valrhona hazelnut paste Agrimontana liquid butter Valrhona sabl Breton calibrated grain Eclat d'Or
g g g g g g
36 24 30 5 55 45
Boil water with gelatin, add the cream and boil, then sugar and boil, then cocoa and boil and finally rehydrated gelatin and simmer. Emulsify and filter. Chill. Use at 35C.
Emmanuele Forcone Davide Comaschi Domenico Longo Luigi Biasetto (president) Alessandro Dalmasso (coach) Team Italy
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CONTEST
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GREETINGS
FROM SICILY
CANNOPIGNOLATA
Exterior dough flour sugar lard wine pure alcohol egg Pignolata cookie Manitoba flour eggs egg yolks pure alcohol lard kg 1 g 100 g 100 g 300 g 50 no 4 Meringue sugar egg whites lemon juice, cocoa, vanilla and cinnamon kg no 1 15
to taste
g 600 no 8 no 6 g 70 to taste
Prepare the meringue and let it cool down. Prepare, for the cannolo, a paste using the ingredients for the exterior dough and fry in the lard, using a tin cylinder. Having made it rest a little, mix the ingredients for the biscuit dough, form into 4 cm pieces and fry in lard at 120C. Separate the cooled meringue into two parts. In one, add the lemon juice, in the other chocolate, vanilla and cinnamon. Mix with the cooled cookie and fill the big cannolo so it is white on one side and dark on the other.
Nino Costantino Messina Photo Salvatore Farina
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EVENTS
MY DEAR...
coffee gelato stick For 24 moulds Coffee and mascarpone sorbet mineral water granulated sugar atomized glucose invert sugar skimmed milk powder stabilizing agent SE 64 mascarpone cheese coffee beans coffee powder chocolate liqueur UHT cream 35% g g g g g g g g g 1337 354 118 59 243 12 825 147 7 g g 24 190
Boil the milk and sugar. Mix the egg yolks with the sugar. Dilute the hot milk on the egg yolk in 3 to 4 passes. Coagulate all at 84C. Put in the measuring jug and mix. Emulsify the custard over the chocolate as usual. Whip the cream lightly, add the chocolate liqueur. Bring the two masses together. Pour into moulds and blast chill.
Heat the water to 60C. Add the coffee beans, previously heated in oven at 150C. Soak for 40 minutes. Bring to a boil, filter, weigh and add the water until you get the initial weight (120 g). Add to the stabilizing agent part of the granulated sugar. Add the milk powder to the water and heat to 20C. Then add invert sugar and heat to 25C. Then add the atomized glucose and at 45C the sugar with the stabilizing agent. Bring it to 82-84C. Allow to cool in iced water. Heat the base at 20C and emulsify with cold mascarpone. Cream at -7C.
Espresso coffee gelatin Blue Mountain Espresso mineral water xanthan gel granulated sugar fresh lemon zest gelatin sheets or powder 200
g g g g g g
Add the xanthan gel to the sugar. Dilute in a carafe a little at a time the mixture of sugar water. Mix at least 5 minutes. Bring to a boil. Add the gelatine previously soaked. Add the espresso coffee and mix. Add the lemon zest. Strain and refrigerate.
Frozen chocolate mousse whole UHT milk glucose syrup egg yolk granulated sugar Extra Noire chocolate 53%
g g g g g
119 95 71 71 179
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From the left, It all began, the Italian entremets. Walking on leaves; Between summer and winter; Autumn: the three Italian bonbons. Above, the Italian team.
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NEWS
A consultant as a friend
Gelato maker Giovannino Fittipaldi travels around the world in order to spread gelato culture, as hes doing in Dubai and not only for the Cavalli and Bo-House Caf. If you want to contact him, fittipaldig@libero.it
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Approved Event
GELATO
GELATO FESTIVAL
Clean and blend the strawberries with 100 g of sucrose to obtain a puree. Mix the remaining sugar with the other powder ingredients and pour in warm water at 40C. Stir until completely dissolved, add the strawberry pulp and whip as usual. Note The strawberry as we understand it, red and juicy, is not a fruit but an inflorescence; the fruits are the small seeds located on the surface. In French gardens it was used as an ornamental and medicinal plant, later to become the fruit of the court of Louis XV of France. It originated in Britain, and the Mara des Bois variety is certified as a cultivar. Its intense bouquet is reminiscent of wild strawberries; although relatively small, it is of outstanding sweetness and flavour. It is also quite a hardy plant.
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PASTRY
Boil the water and add all powder ingredients previously mixed dry. Having obtained the solution, add the chopped chocolate and whisk as usual. Note: In this recipe we have a lower percentage of neutral, thanks to the cocoa butter as a stabilizer, naturally present in chocolate.
NATURAL LEMON
28% sugar, 22% lemon juice 3000 g (small bowl) fresh Ligurian lemon juice sucrose dried glucose syrup 38DE neutral for cold fruit inulin warm water g g g g g g 600 550 150 15 35 1650
Grate the lemon zest in a part of sucrose (50 g), then squeeze the lemons to get the juice. Mix the remaining sucrose and all other dry ingredients and pour in warm water at 40C. Stir until completely dissolved, add the juice and sugar with the zest and mix as usual. Note: The 4 seasons lemon, for its quality and aroma (limonin), is grown exclusively in Liguria, in northern Italy. This variety is indeed very resistant to the cold and to parasites that commonly attack other citrus fruits.
Alessandro Racca photos Giancarlo Bononi (many thanks to Carpigiani for the shooting)
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GELATO
Mix the Sarfrutta 50 base with sucrose, dextrose and dried glucose syrup; pour the water at 40C and mix. Combine the wildberry pasta with the blueberry puree; blend. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes and cream.
Assembly
Serve with poch of fruit with berry sorbet in bowl or small vase. Garnish with fresh mint, dried oranges and green pepper.
Emanuele Saracino www.saracinogelati.com photo Roberto Sammartini
Berries, oranges and pepper poch berries oranges sugar dried glucose syrup pectin sugar
g g g g g g
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GELATO
Add the almond paste to the orange flower water and white base; cream. Decorate with pine-seeds and fresh dates filled with almonds.
Farida Haggiagi photo Salvatore Farina
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www.skisa.com
To contain such immense freshness, weve created a 1.5 litre carton. KEN cream is a traditional product which, thanks to fast processing, heat treatment and innovative package, stays fresh longer. A unique cream available in numerous formulas to meet the various needs of professionals cooking and pastry.
CUISINE
IDENTIT GOLOSE
An eventful autumn awaits the team of Identit Golose - the international chef congress. They are busy exporting the successful format abroad and the first rendez-vous will be in London, October 18, where an Open Day on the best of new Italian cuisine will be organized. The traditional Milanese formula of the congress will be changed into a programme of live performances, i.e. meetings/classes with chefs, tastings of high quality products and a gala dinner. They will take place in the prestigious Town Hall Hotel in the heart of the East End, a lively district of the capital of England. The main show will be held in the luxury De Montfort Suite, the biggest in London, while some smaller suites equipped with kitchen units will welcome the partners of the event and their hosts. On 31 October and 1 November Identit Golose will move to New York City. Six well known Italian chefs Massimo Bottura, Carlo Cracco, Moreno Cedroni, Gennaro Esposito, Davide Scabin and Emanele Scarello will be guests of Oscar Farinetti at Eataly, where they will work four hands with six American chefs Mario Batali, David Chang, Jonathan Benno, Michael White, Mark Ladner and Missy Robbins in the thematic restaurants of the mecca of Italian food in New York. In November Identit Golose will go back to Italy in Rome, at the Open Colonna premises, on the top floor of Palazzo delle Esposizioni, with a preview of the main congress, which will be held in Milan, 57 February 2012. The following recipe was presented by Mehmet Grs, the owner of Mikla restaurant in Istanbul, in January during the last edition of Identit Golose in Milan. www.identitagolose.it
PUMPKIN
Sweetened Pumpkin PR
Yield: approx 30 pieces Remove the pan from heat and let the pumpkin cool down to room temperature in the cooking syrup. Store covered in the syrup at room temperature.
unslaked lime (Quicklime) water No. 1 pumpkin (approx. 30 pieces) sugar water No. 2 lemon juice cloves
g g
250 500
Put the pistachio paste in a medium size mixing bowl. Add milk slowly and whisk well. Transfer the mixture in a Paco Jet container. Freeze overnight
Put the unslaked lime in a deep container and very carefully add water No.1 on top slowly (protective goggles are a good idea). Do not breathe in the steam that rises. Leave lime water to rest for 24 hours until the lime sets and separates from the water. Using a ladle carefully retrieve the clear water on top and transfer to a container. Peel the pumpkin and use the firm flesh close to the rind. Cut the pumpkin into 3.5 x 2.5 x 1cm pieces. Put the pumpkin pieces into the clear lime water. Weigh down with a rack to completely immerse the pumpkin. Make sure the pumpkin pieces do not stick to each other. Each piece needs to breathe in the water. Put the sugar, water No. 2, lemon juice and cloves in a sauce pan. Mix with a whisk until the sugar dissolves and bring to a light simmer. Remove the pumpkin pieces from the lime water and wash well under running water. Put pumpkin pieces into the simmering (induction 3) sugar syrup, place a rack on top to make sure the pumpkins are completely immersed. During the cooking, remove the pumpkins from the syrup every half hour and oxygenate them for 20 seconds before continuing the cooking process. Cook the pumpkin for approx 2 hours until they are crunchy on the outside and have a translucent golden brown.
Assembly
Yield: 1 portion
sweetened pumpkin PR pcs 3 early harvest Antep pistachio ice cream PR g 20 hand crushed sesame paste Srtme g 5 grape molasses g 5 early harvest pistachios, peeled & roasted
Crumble the pistachios. Place the pumpkins on the plate. Arrange 5 drops each of the molasses and sesame paste on the plate. Make a line of the crumbled pistachios. Place a quenelle of ice cream on top of the pistachio crumbles.
Mehmet Grs Mikla Restaurant, Istanbul, Turchia www.miklarestaurant.com photo Brambilla-Serrani
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NEWS
Small Temptations
Silikomart is an Italian company established by a sole administrator, Dario Martellato, that constantly reinforces its status as leader in the market for silicone moulds for professional use, thanks to the launch of innovative solutions for an increasingly demanding public. Quality, versatility, efficiency and design make it a creditworthy trademark where culinary art takes shape stimulating professional creativity. The new 60x40 cm Mini Pyramid (Vol. 11x77 ml Tot. 847 ml), Mini Cube (Vol. 12x88 ml Tot. 1056 ml) and Mini Twist (Vol. 12x88 ml Tot. 1056 ml) moulds are an addition to the sessantaperquaranta (60x40cm) collection of the Silikomart Professional division. These moulds are suitable for the making of sweet and savoury, classic and creative, as well as innovative and traditional mignon and biscuits, and their size causes a more efficient use of cooking surfaces and a reduction of preparation times. With their flexible non-stick structure and special gloss finish, these moulds in 100% food grade silicone are fit for freezing and for cooking, both in fan and microwave ovens. www.silikomart.com
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NEWS
CUISINE
A HEALTHY
CONTRAST
Everything is the contrary of everything: such is Alessandro Boglione. Head chef of the restaurant Al Castello of Grinzane Cavour, the conflicting but successful way in which he moves between life and work has placed him firmly on the stage of quality Italian cuisine, obtaining the coveted Michelin star a little more than a year after opening the restaurant. He himself struggles to understand himself: he loves meat but prefers to cook fish; he worked for years in the family bakery but does not eat sweets. This list of contradictions interesting, funny, even strange are the basis of his knowledge and the strength of his identity. These "contrasts" are his hallmark, forging a strong identity. Alessandro is a chef who knows where he is going and who has turned a passion into his life, working hard, always humble and respectful of all those who work and have worked with him. These traits came out during our interview with him in the magnificent mansion that houses the restaurant. The Castle of Grinzane is located in one of the most evocative spots of the Langhe, five kilometres from Alba, and built around the central tower dating to the first half of the eleventh century; it can be admired in all its beauty thanks to the 1960 restoration for
Alessandro Boglione is head chef of Al Castello, Castle of Grinzane Cavour, located in one of the most evocative settings of the Langhe, between Alba and Bra, with a panoramic view over the surrounding vineyards.
the centenary celebrations of the unification of Italy. A quadrilateral with a high tower, it houses the Enoteca Regionale Piemontese Cavour, the first in the region, the Museum with memorabilia of Cavour (Camillo Benso di Cavour lived there from 1832 to 1849, promoting innovations in agriculture and wine-making) and the Museum of Ethnography. Located in this impressive manor house is Boglione's restaurant and adjoining cafeteria. If the latter is the ideal place for a quick snack, a drink or a coffee complete with view over the endless vineyards, the warm and refined atmosphere of the restaurant is perfect for an unforgettable gastronomic experience. How would you define your cooking? "Healthy madness" which has its origins in the passion that has always accompanied my choices, and that goes back to 1987 when at the end of middle school, I opted for the hotel and catering school. Looking back, I can say that I was lucky not to start with the big names, but with people who conveyed a certain 'sensitivity' towards their work, and the importance of the human factor.
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Your cooking is local yet innovative: how do these two factors merge? By finding a balance which is arrived at through various factors: what you aim to express, the context in which it is expressed, and the potential customer who interprets it. You worked for two years as pastry chef at the Cafe Converso of Bra: how did this start? Pastry is the biggest of challenges. I do not eat sweets, not that I do not like them, I just do not eat them because for me everything is centred on savoury tastes. The project was started by my father, which my brother Federico and I picked up in 1999. We modernised and invested lots of energy, with excellent results. I left to follow my passion for savoury tastes, although I still collaborate with him. Pastry drives me mad because it is an exact science and I am an instinctive bungler: two aspects that can not live side by side. To what extent has pastry making influenced your cooking? I often make non-sweet sweets, using savoury products in desserts, sometimes for fun, or just to arouse curiosity in the client. For example, I like using our homemade artichoke jam with certain cheeses or sweets; I also love using saffron. I was already doing this more than ten years ago, when between '99 and 2000, I presented at the Salone del Gusto in Turin a line of chocolates with herbs and saffron with white chocolate. How do you create your dessert menu? It is a separate menu with an identity of its own. It is a small list of offerings that follows the seasons: nature is the driving force behind our choices. The spring menu, for example, includes a combination of white chocolate with liquorice mousse and banana cream; a semifreddo of ricotta with charred berries and cocoa bean crunch; two revisited classical desserts, such as profiteroles with coffee filling and rosemary glaze; and the lemon zuccotto with almonds and caramel gelato. How does a menu materialise? From everything and anything: it is the instinct that originates from anything, be it a dinner with friends, a magazine, a trade show, a moment of solitude. Is there a method you follow when preparing a menu? The composition of a dish should never exceed the number of fingers on one hand. It is a hard and fast rule that governs any recipe: the raw material is accompanied by a maximum of 3 or 4 ingredients required to enhance it. The moment you realize that a dish is too "messy", I begin removing until I find simplicity. The more the years pass, the more this work of removing becomes perfected in the search for simplicity. What sweet ingredient do you prefer to work with? I am crazy about marron glac. What about your favourite savoury ingredient? Meat, or even better poultry, even though I love working with fish because of its quick cooking. What essential aspects do you believe are essential at the restaurant? The final coffee, too often neglected, which can ruin a whole meal, and the napkin, i.e. the fibre and the feeling that this leaves on the
lips when you wipe them. Ours are made of a flax and cotton material that give a pleasant feel. What is the future of cuisine? A move towards the simplification of supply and of prices. I am lucky to have been the last to arrive in a land with a high concentration of restaurants managed by big names. Before opening, I looked around analyzing the situation and asked: "This is the market, so how do I carve out a small slice for myself?" By keeping an eye on prices. What are your future projects? To look ahead and continue to grow together with the staff, which is my added value. Everything that came from the Michelin star on is all thanks to them.
Monica Onnis
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19
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CUISINE
In an aluminium pan, bring to 121C 200 g of water and 400 g of sugar, making sure that the flame is not too high, thus avoiding burning the edge. Separately, whip the egg whites and drizzle in the sugar syrup until completely cool, resulting in an Italian meringue. Whip cream until the mixture begins to rise. Pour into a bowl and add the hazelnut paste, working with a movement from the top down, very gently. Finally, add the meringue repeating the same movement as before. Be very careful not to work the two mixtures for too long, which would otherwise break them. Place in a plastic container and refrigerate.
Dried oranges
Make syrup with 200 g of water and 200 g of sugar. Put the syrup on the stove until the sugar is completely dissolved and allow to cool. Slice an orange in very thin slices; soak the slices in the syrup, drain and lay them on Silpat. Dry them at 90C for about 2 hours.
Assembly
Place a generous tablespoon of mousse gently in the cups. Add a handful of caramelized hazelnuts and stick in two or three slices of dried oranges.
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g g no g no g
g g g g
50 90 50 8
Crumble the almond paste into the cutter with 75 g of sugar, being careful not to let it warm up. Melt the butter in a frying pan while maintaining a low temperature. Beat eggs and egg yolks with an additional 75 g of sugar. When they are well beaten, add the almond paste gently. Drizzle in the butter, stirring gently, add flour, starch and yeast, previously sifted, and stir from bottom to top. Place in a plate with edge already lined with baking paper. Bake for 30 minutes at 180C with the valve closed.
Assembly
Almond sponge egg yolks whole eggs almond paste sugar no no g g 2 3 100 150
Cut the cake into strips to create the base for one-portion moulds. Siphon the mixture to fill the mould, then freeze in freezer or chiller. Heat sugar in a pan and let it brown, then remove from heat and saut the grapes until evenly covered in caramel; allow to cool. Meanwhile take a mould from the freezer, detach it and lay in the centre of the dish. Place grapes on top and finish with toasted almonds in strips. Wait a few minutes before serving.
Alessandro Boglione Al Castello, Grinzane Cavour, Cn www.castellodigrinzane.it
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19
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NEWS
TRENDY FANTASY
Petits gteaux are small inviting desserts, which can be produced by pastry chefs and gelato makers wishing to keep abreast of the times. Elenka offers a wide range of specific products for the making of such desserts, verrines, and also semifreddos and gelato cakes including layers of sponge biscuit, short pastry or puff pastry. Nine classical Italian tastes are available: chocolate, vanilla, hazelnut, coffee, zabaione, zuppa inglese, panna cotta, almond and strawberry. Moreover, Milka Speedy and Ciocco Speedy of the Top Mousse line are particularly suitable for the quick making of mousses. www.Elenka.eu
Fruit passion
Coconut biscuit eggs sugar almonds flour coconut paste grated coconut g g g g g 500 200 200 100 50
Whisk eggs and sugar in a mixing bowl. Add the coconut paste and the sieved flours. Cover a tray with Silpat and spread the mixture on it using a spatula. Sprinkle with grated coconut and bake at 220C for 6-8 minutes.
Strawberry semifreddo fresh cream milk Prontocrema Base 786 strawberry paste
g g g g g
500 125 75 50 75
Whisk all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and, when the mixture is foamy, turn off the machine.
Orange semifreddo fresh cream milk Base 786 Prontocrema orange aroma Assembly
g g g g g
500 125 50 75 30
Cover the surface of a semispheric mould with the strawberry semifreddo. Insert a smaller mould in order to shape the thickness of the dessert and freeze. Pour some water in the inner mould, then throw it away and remove the semifreddo from the mould, making in twirl. Fill half of it with orange semifreddo, and put a layer of coconut biscuit. Smooth, add Fanta Fragola and finish with some strawberry semifreddo. Smooth and put a layer of coconut biscuit. Freeze, remove and spread with Gelatin Glasse. Decorate with sugar rings, strawberries, grated coconut and pieces of chocolate.
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I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R AT I O N , O U R PA S S I O N .
NEWS
CIOCOFANTASY in Cornigliano
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