Professional Documents
Culture Documents
DIRECTIONS
Martin Dunford
WITH ADDITIONAL RESEARCH BY
Adrien Glover
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3
Contents
The Lower East Side ........................97
Introduction 4
CONTENTS
The East Village..............................103
Greenwich Village ..........................112
Chelsea and the Garment District ..121
Ideas 9 Union Square, Gramercy Park,
and Murray Hill ..........................128
The big six sights ............................10
Times Square and the
Quintessential New York
Theater District ..........................135
restaurants....................................12
Midtown East ................................144
Green New York................................14
Central Park ..................................155
Ethnic New York ..............................16
The Upper East Side ......................161
Museums and galleries ....................18
The Upper West Side......................171
Shopping streets ..............................20
Harlem and above ..........................180
Cafés and tearooms ........................22
The Outer Boroughs ......................186
Skyscrapers ....................................24
Gourmet food ..................................26
Clubs and music venues ..................28
Twenty-four-hour New York ..............30
Accommodation 199
Grand hotels ....................................32 Hotels ............................................201
City views ........................................34 Hostels and YMCAs ........................209
Gay New York ..................................36 B&Bs and serviced apartments ......210
Classic bars ....................................38
Reasons to leave the island..............40
Kids’ New York ................................42 Essentials 213
New York food ..................................44
Film and TV locations ......................46 Arrival ............................................215
Literary landmarks ..........................48 Information ....................................216
Gourmet restaurants ........................50 City transportation..........................217
Churches and synagogues ..............52 City tours ......................................218
New York on the cheap ....................54 Money............................................219
Concert halls ....................................56 Phones, mail, and email ................219
Shopping..........................................58 Festivals and holidays ....................220
Breakfast and brunch spots..............60 Directory ......................................221
Parades and annual events ..............62
Index 223
Places 65
Battery Park and the
Harbor Islands ..............................67
Colour Maps
The Financial District........................70 Manhattan
City Hall Park and TriBeCa ................79 MTA New York City Subway
Chinatown and Little Italy ................85 Midtown Manhattan
SoHo ................................................91 Downtown Manhattan
4
Introduction to
New York
INTRODUCTION
When to visit
Pretty much any time is a good time to visit New York. Winters here can be
bitingly cold, but the city can be delightful in November and
December during the run-up to Christmas, when the trees
are lit up with fairy lights and shops stay open extra-late.
The weather is at its coldest in January and February,
but there can be great flight bargains at this time of
year, and in any case New York has some wonderful
crisp and clear sunny days even then. Spring, early
summer, and fall are perhaps the most appealing times
to visit, when temperatures can be comfortably warm.
July and August are the only months you may truly want to avoid: the tem-
peratures tend be sweltering and the humidity worse, while flights are
expensive and everyone tends to leave town for more comfortable climes if
they can.
Contents Introduction
5
쒀 New
city is rife
with vibrant
York firehouse
ethnic neigh-
INTRODUCTION
borhoods, like
Chinatown
and Harlem,
and boasts the
artsy enclaves
of SoHo,
TriBeCa, and
Greenwich
Village. Of
course, you
will find the
celebrated
architecture
of corporate
Manhattan as
well as the
city’s
renowned
museums –
not just the
Metropolitan
You could spend weeks in Museum of Art or the
New York and still barely Museum of Modern Art,
scratch the surface, but but countless smaller col-
there are some key attrac- lections that afford weeks
tions and pleasures you of happy wandering. In
won’t want to miss.The between sights, you can eat
쒀 Subway
entrance
Contents Introduction
6
쑽 The
city it’s here
that you’ll
Bronx Zoo
spend most
INTRODUCTION
ingly exhaus-
tive in this
American Museum of Natural History
heartland of
the great capi-
talist dream.
New York City
comprises the
central island
of Manhattan
along with
four outer bor-
oughs –
Brooklyn,
Queens, the
Bronx, and
Staten Island.
To many,
Manhattan is
New York, and
whatever your
interest in the
Contents Introduction
7
INTRODUCTION
Greenwich Village
쒀
Chinatown groceries
쑽 TriBeCa
café
Financial District
This area takes in the skyscrapers
and oldest buildings of
Manhattan’s southern tip,
although the most famous aspect
of its skyline, the World Trade
Center, sadly no longer exists.
Chinatown
Manhattan’s most densely populat-
ed ethnic neighborhood, this vibrant
locale is great for Chinese food and
shopping for the truly exotic.
Midtown East
SoHo and TriBeCa Home to some of New York’s
Two of the premier districts for most awe-inspiring architecture as
cafés, galleries and the commer- well as superb museums and the
cial art scene – not to mention city’s most elegant stores aligning
designer shopping. Fifth Avenue.
쒀
The New York Public Library, Midtown East
Contents Introduction
8
쑽
Columbus Circle, the Upper West Side
INTRODUCTION
Contents Introduction
Ideas
Contents Ideas
10
New York boasts
The big six sights
some of the world’s
most unmissable
sights – some of
which are literally
impossible to miss.
From the islands of
New York Harbor,
to the giant urban
oasis that is Central
Park, to arguably
the two greatest
museums of their
kind in the world,
we’ve listed the ones that
we believe you really can’t
leave town without
experiencing.
The Empire State Building
Once again the tallest skyscraper in a
metropolis known for them, the Empire
State is the king of New York’s celebrated
skyline.
P.131 MIDTOWN EAST
Contents Ideas
11
The Statue of Liberty
The views of the lower Manhattan skyline,
the trip to the top, everything about a visit
to Lady Liberty makes it the ultimate New
York experience.
P.68 BATTERY PARK AND THE
HARBOR ISLANDS
The Metropolitan
Museum of Art
You might spend a week exploring the muse-
um’s vast holdings, or simply focus on its
paintings, ancient artifacts, or applied arts.
P.161 THE UPPER EAST SIDE
Ellis Island
A sensitive and moving museum that drives
home the city’s – and the country’s – immi-
grant roots. A great add-on to any visit to
the Statue of Liberty.
P.69 BATTERY PARK AND
THE HARBOR ISLANDS
Central Park
The ultimate urban park, this green and fan-
tastically landscaped sanctuary lies at the
heart of the city’s bustle – and couldn’t feel
further away from it.
P.155 CENTRAL PARK
Contents Ideas
12
Of the city’s Grand Central Oyster Bar
Quintessential New York restaurants
In the vaulted bowels of Grand Central
thousands of Station, this is one of the most atmos-
restaurants, some pheric oyster bars and fish restaurants in
the world.
of which come and
P153 MIDTOWN EAST
go in the blink of an
eye, a few have
become celebrated
institutions – places
to visit as much
now for their
character,
atmosphere, and
clientele as for the
food itself. But the
food that made
them famous in the
first place isn’t
shabby at all:
sample oysters that
taste like they’ve
just been dragged
out of the sea,
towering deli
sandwiches, or the
most mouthwatering
steaks to be found
for miles.
Contents Ideas
13
Second Avenue Deli
This classic East Village Jewish deli is
known for its matzoh ball soup and great
burgers.
P.109 THE EAST VILLAGE
Katz’s Deli
Peter Luger’s Steak House Probably the most “New York” of the city’s
Manhattanites trek to Williamsburg to the innumerable eateries, Katz’s is celebrated
steakhouse to beat them all, serving hunks for its jaw-achingly huge pastrami sand-
of meat the size of a house. wiches.
P.196 THE OUTER BOROUGHS P.101 THE LOWER EAST SIDE
Contents Ideas
14
Beyond the obvious
Green New York
example of Central
Park, such a city
mainstay that we’ve
given it its own
chapter (see p.155),
New York sports a
number of green
spaces. The city’s
sheer size ensures
that there are any
number of fantastic
places to escape to for a
relaxing picnic or just a
break when the concrete
jungle gets to be too much.
Contents Ideas
15
Riverside Park
Landscaped by Vaux and Olmsted, the
architects who designed Central Park,
Riverside Park offers a fine respite from
touring the Upper West Side.
P.174 THE UPPER WEST SIDE
Prospect Park
Another Vaux and Olmsted production,
Brooklyn’s most bucolic open space fea-
tures a botanical garden and a zoo.
P.188 THE OUTER BOROUGHS
Contents Ideas
16
The most racially
Ethnic New York The Ukrainian East Village
While the area is now home to a vibrant
diverse city on the mix of hipsters, students, yuppies, and
planet, New York’s artists, it still contains pockets of its
Ukrainian past.
five boroughs form a
P.103 THE EAST VILLAGE
patchwork of
constantly shifting
immigrant
neighborhoods.
Apart from bustling
Chinatown and one
or two other
districts,
Manhattan’s
immigrant quarters have
become diluted as the
island has been gentrified,
but the outer boroughs
are more of a melting pot
than ever – which usually
means vibrant streetlife,
great shopping, and
amazing food.
Contents Ideas
17
Little Italy
It’s not the authentic Italian enclave of old,
but Little Italy retains a good smattering of
restaurants and cafés.
P.85 CHINATOWN AND
LITTLE ITALY
Contents Ideas
18
The bedrock of New
Museums and galleries
York’s collections is
made up of the
paintings and
artworks amassed
over the years by
the city’s industrial
tycoons, who
pillaged Europe to
furnish their
luxurious homes.
Their vanity is now
to everyone’s benefit
as New York City
claims some of the
best museums and
galleries in the The Metropolitan Museum
world. of Art
Comprised of seven major collections –
everything from Egyptian antiquities to a
Chinese garden and American period furni-
ture to celebrated Impressionist masters.
P.161 THE UPPER EAST SIDE
Contents Ideas
19
American
Museum of
Natural History
One of the leading natural
history collections in the
world, this giant museum
is affiliated with a world-
class planetarium.
P.173 THE UPPER
WEST SIDE
Contents Ideas
20
The Big Apple is a
Shopping streets
great place to shop,
offering a wealth of
variety and price
ranges for even the
most discriminating
consumer. Like-
minded stores tend
to gather together,
so whether you’re
after that nifty
designer top, a pair
of swanky shoes, or
a fake Rolex watch, you
need to know which part of
the city to head for.
Canal Street
Chinatown’s main artery is riddled with
supermarkets and dodgy designer
watches and handbags.
P.87 CHINATOWN AND
LITTLE ITALY
Contents Ideas
21
Madison Avenue
The upper reaches of Madison is home to
the Manhattan outlets of the big-name
designers.
P.165 UPPER EAST SIDE
Orchard Street
On Sunday, this Lower East Side street bus-
tles with buyers of cheap clothing and
leather bargains.
P.97 LOWER EAST SIDE
Fifth Avenue
Legendary home to the upscale stores –
such as Gucci, Tiffany, Cartier – and their
lavish window displays.
P.144 MIDTOWN EAST
Contents Ideas
22
New York is the
Cafés and tearooms
ultimate walking
city, but all that
pavement pounding
needs to be
interspersed with
frequent rest and
refueling.
Fortunately an
eclectic collection of
cafés and
tearooms can be
found in just about
every neighborhood,
providing the perfect
stops for a
homemade pastry,
invigorating espresso, or a
sidewalk seat from which
to watch the world go by.
Contents Ideas
23
Veniero’s
This East Village landmark has been serving
wonderful pastries and ice cream for over
100 years.
P.107 THE EAST VILLAGE
Le Figaro
Beat hangout of the 1950s, Le Figaro is
still a nice place for a drink and a snack.
P.117 GREENWICH VILLAGE
Café Sabarsky
This Viennese café on Museum Mile is an
ideal place to pause for a torte and coffee
before heading back to the galleries.
P.168 UPPER EAST SIDE
Thé Adoré
This charming Japanese tearoom and bak-
ery serves excellent teas and pastries.
P.107 THE EAST VILLAGE
Contents Ideas
24
Skyscrapers
Though the city’s
profile was forever
disfigured when it
lost its tallest
building, the World
Trade Center, in
2001, the skyline
retains its distinctive
majesty, as big
prestigious buildings
compete for attention along
the main central avenues.
While there are only two
major concentrations of The Citicorp Center
A Seventies update of the prestige corpo-
skyscrapers – in lower rate headquarters, and one of the city’s
Manhattan and midtown – most distinctive buildings.
city.
Contents Ideas
25
The Empire State Building
The views from the top of the Empire State
afford a dizzying, unparalleled panorama of
Manhattan and beyond.
P.131 MIDTOWN EAST
The GE Building
The centerpiece of the Rockefeller Center,
the monumental lines of this classic piece
of early twentieth-century architecture has
views that vie for the city’s best.
P.146 MIDTOWN EAST
Contents Ideas
26
There are few
Gourmet food
places in the world
that take eating
more seriously, and
as such New York is
a great place to
shop for food,
hosting everything
from sleek designer
delis to ancient
ethnic joints that
have been serving up the
same specialties for over
a century. Wherever you
are in the city, the choice
and abundance will be
enough to make you
swoon.
Contents Ideas
27
Russ & Daughters
The city’s most famous “appetizing” spot
this is the original gourmet store.
P.99 THE LOWER EAST SIDE
Zabar’s
Still the apotheosis of New York food fever,
this deluxe grocer’s is the city’s most emi-
nent foodstore.
P.176 THE UPPER WEST SIDE
Contents Ideas
28
If you come to New
Clubs and music venues
York City for
nightlife, you won’t
be disappointed. The
scene is constantly
changing, but we’ve
picked out some of
the city’s hardiest
perennials. Be sure,
however, to check
local listings
magazines and
other sources to find
out where the latest
cool spot is –
there’s no telling
when a new one
may open and when
it may close.
Contents Ideas
29
Don Hill’s
Kitschy dance venue hosting an eclectic
mixture of live music and DJs.
P.96 SOHO
Village Underground
An atmospheric and intimate basement club
that showcases both new and established
talent.
P.120 GREENWICH VILLAGE
Mercury
Lounge
Dark yet laid-back
venue usually
hosting a mix of
local and interna-
tional rock acts.
P.102 THE
LOWER
EAST SIDE
Knitting
Factory
New York’s most
experimental rock
and jazz venue is
almost always
hosting something
of note.
P.84 CITY HALL
PARK AND
TRIBECA
Contents Ideas
30
Though it likes to
24-hour New York
think of itself as the
city that doesn’t
sleep, most
restaurants are
closed by midnight
and even bars tend
to shut down by
3am. That doesn’t
mean you are
without options.
We’ve selected a
handful of our
favorite all-night
spots that never close at
all – worth knowing if you
have a hankering for a
lobster thermidor at 4am.
Veselka
Long-standing Ukrainian establishment
that offers great borscht, day or night.
P.109 THE EAST VILLAGE
Stage Deli
Perfect for that overstuffed sandwich
after a night on Broadway.
P.141 TIMES SQUARE AND
THE THEATER DISTRICT
Contents Ideas
31
Florent
Ultra-hip meatpacking district all-nighter
that caters to the clubbing crowd.
P.118 GREENWICH VILLAGE
Empire Diner
A great Art Deco setting for that late-night
burger.
P.125 CHELSEA
Coffee Shop
Cool and informal, this Brazilian restau-
rant-cum-American diner attracts a ritzy
crowd.
P.132 UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY
PARK, AND MURRAY HILL
Contents Ideas
32
From its traditional
Grand hotels The Hudson
palaces of elegance The newest Ian Schrager extravaganza
offers luxurious dining and accommoda-
like the Plaza, to tion.
the glut of new, P.141 ACCOMMODATION
slick, designer
hotels – the
Royalton or the
Hudson – there are
few cities in the
world where you
can blow a wad on a hotel
room with quite such
panache. Even if you
cannot afford to stay in one
of them, New York’s luxury
hotels beg a visit.
Contents Ideas
33
The Plaza
The setting for countless films, this mock
chateau overlooking Central Park is the
last word in opulence.
P.206 ACCOMMODATION
The Royalton
Comfort and style amid the bustle of mid-
town, this is the stylish alternative for the
discerning traveler.
P.206 ACCOMMODATION
Contents Ideas
34
City views
Stunning vistas lurk
around just about
any corner of New
York – hardly
surprising for a city
so vertical.
Expansive avenues
and sumptuous
waterscapes open onto a
wide selection of striking
views. We’ve listed some of
our favorite places to get a
memorable and unique
vision of New York.
Contents Ideas
35
The Brooklyn Esplanade
The esplanade affords unparalleled views of
the Brooklyn Bridge, the East River, and the
Financial District.
P.186 THE OUTER BOROUGHS
Harbor cruises
There are many options if you want to get
out on the water, all giving great views of
Manhattan.
P.67 THE HARBOR ISLANDS
Helicopter
tours
There is no more
unique or mobile
way of seeing the
city than from the
air.
P.218
ESSENTIALS
Contents Ideas
36
Gay New York
There are few Stonewall Bar
places where gay Site of the famous riots, the original
Stonewall is still a Village stalwart.
culture thrives to P.119 GREENWICH VILLAGE
the extent it does in
New York, as
manifest in the
multiplicity of bars,
stores, and other
businesses catering
to a specifically gay
clientele. There are
numerous neighborhoods,
too, that are predominantly
gay – the West Village is
the original one, though
Chelsea is probably the
largest nowadays – as well
as several free newspapers
(Blade, Next, HX, LGNY
News) worth picking up for
pointers of where to go and
what to do.
Contents Ideas
37
Christopher Street
The main drag of gay New York, Christopher
street, is home to manifold gay-oriented
bars, clubs, and businesses.
P.114 GREENWICH VILLAGE
Marie’s Crisis
This cabaret and piano bar always makes
for a fabulous night out.
P.114 GREENWICH VILLAGE
The Monster
Large and camp, this bar is celebrated for
cabaret acts and late-night dancing.
P.119 GREENWICH VILLAGE
Oscar Wilde
Memorial
Bookshop
A great place to begin
your tour of the
Village, this is the
city’s most extensive
gay bookshop.
P.116 GREENWICH
VILLAGE
Contents Ideas
38
New York has
Classic bars Subway Inn
always been a Funky old spot with cheap beer in the
shadow of Bloomingdale’s.
drinkers’ haven, and
P.170 THE UPPER EAST SIDE
even with the new
ban on smoking
there are still loads
of bars to entice old
soaks, young
hipsters, and weary
sightseers. Choose
from grizzled old places
that have been around
forever and take a break
from the sleek designer
joints, where you may have
to negotiate with the
bouncer.
Contents Ideas
39
Fanelli’s
Cozy old bar that’s a
nice alternative to
SoHo’s usual slick
establishments.
P.96 SOHO
Contents Ideas
40
For most people
Reasons to leave the island Brooklyn Heights
Manhattan is New Just across the Brooklyn Bridge, the tran-
quil Heights offers brick- and brownstone
York, yet there are architecture and an unmatched view of
four other boroughs Manhattan.
P.186 THE OUTER BOROUGHS
and plenty to
experience in each
of them if you have
the time. Bear in
mind that the outer
boroughs, Brooklyn,
Queens, the Bronx,
and Staten Island,
include some of the
city’s most
ethnically diverse
neighborhoods –
reason enough in
itself to leave the
island, especially if
you want to eat.
Contents Ideas
41
Coney Island
New York’s classic beachside fun factory,
accessible for the price of a subway
ticket.
P.189 THE OUTER BOROUGHS
Yankee Stadium
Home to baseball’s most storied team, the
stadium is the hot ticket in the summer.
P.192 THE OUTER BOROUGHS
Bronx Zoo
One of the best in the country, the zoo awes
millions annually with its wildlife.
P.192 THE OUTER BOROUGHS
Contents Ideas
42
Kids’ New York
Just walking the Children’s Museum of
Manhattan
streets of New York Highly interactive museum devoted to
and soaking it all in kids, who flock to its video and story-
telling presentations.
should be enough to
P.174 THE UPPER WEST SIDE
keep your children
stimulated, for New
York features such
obvious eye-openers
as skyscrapers,
ferry rides, and
street entertainers.
But there are also
many attractions
specifically designed for
kids that you shouldn’t
miss if you’re here as a
family.
Contents Ideas
43
Contents Ideas
44
The smells of New
New York food
York’s distinctive
street food – an
inevitable result of
the ethnic mix that
makes up the city –
waft from every
corner. Specialties
include everything
from German treats
like pretzels and hot
dogs, which date from the
very earliest immigrants,
Jewish bialys, bagels, and
lox – and of course pizza,
the product of the city’s
large Italian community.
We’ve listed some of the
most prominent kinds that
you’ll find – there are
plenty more; don’t be
afraid to try your luck.
Pizza
While pizza is pretty much universal, New
Yorkers insist only a few places serve the
real thing.
P.89 CHINATOWN AND
LITTLE ITALY
Contents Ideas
45
Knishes
Delectable, doughy Jewish pastry stuffed
with potatoes, cheese, and meat, among
other options.
P.100 THE LOWER EAST SIDE
Hot dogs
The ultimate street food, available on
virtually every corner with a variety of
garnishes.
P.196 THE OUER BOROUGHS
Contents Ideas
46
Even first-time
Film and TV locations
visitors will find that
there’s plenty in
New York that’s
oddly familiar – and
that’s because the
city is the ultimate
movie set and has
featured on film
and television more
than any other city.
You could fill an
entire book with its
most significant
locations; instead
we’ve just listed
some of the ones you’re
likely to be most familiar
with.
King Kong
No image is quite as iconic as the mighty
ape straddling the Empire State Building.
P.131 UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY
PARK, AND MURRAY HILL
Contents Ideas
47
Seinfeld
The beloved sitcom was filmed
on a stage set, but the outside of
Tom’s Diner doubled as Monk’s,
the coffeeshop where Jerry and
Co. talked about nothing.
P.178 THE UPPER
WEST SIDE
Breakfast at
Tiffany’s
Few stores evoke a
movie character as
indelibly as Tiffany’s
does Audrey
Hepburn’s Holly
Golightly.
P.153 MIDTOWN
EAST
Rosemary’s Baby
The august Dakota Building was the spooky
setting of Roman Polanski’s seminal Sixties
chiller.
P.171 THE UPPER WEST SIDE
Contents Ideas
48
Literary landmarks
Since the early Chelsea Hotel
Numerous writers have holed up at the
nineteenth century, Chelsea, but the most famous was prob-
New York has been ably Jack Kerouac, who wrote On The
Road here in 1951.
home and workplace
P.122 CHELSEA AND THE
to some of the GARMENT DISTRICT
guiding lights of
world literature, and
their haunts and
activities are marked
throughout the city.
Its venerable
literary history has
been played out in
its bars, hotels,
parks, houses, and
streets, leaving behind
numerous indelible
landmarks.
Contents Ideas
49
White Horse
Tavern
Bustling bar in which
Dylan Thomas notori-
ously downed his final
scotch.
P.120 GREENWICH
VILLAGE
West End
Café
The unruly haunt of
Allen Ginsberg and
his fellow Beats in
the Fifties.
P.179 THE
UPPER WEST
SIDE
Algonquin Hotel
While the bar was the gathering place of
Dorothy Parker and her Round Table, the
hotel has long been a place for literary folk
to stay.
P.136 TIMES SQUARE AND THE
THEATER DISTRICT
Washington Square
Henry James’ novel of the same name pays
tribute to the redbrick terrace houses that
still fringe the square’s north side.
P.112 GREENWICH VILLAGE
Contents Ideas
50
Gourmet restaurants
In a city of Aquavit
Just off Fifth Avenue, Aquavit serves
restaurants, it’s not exquisite Scandinavian food in a top-notch
surprising that New ambience.
York has some truly P.139 TIMES SQUARE AND
THE THEATER DISTRICT
extraordinary places
to eat – usually at
prices to match.
There are the well-
established
institutions, where a
meal is an
experience in itself,
as well as a
constantly evolving
host of places
springing up to
challenge the culinary
status quo. For any of the
spots below, make sure
you reserve well in
advance.
Contents Ideas
51
71 Clinton Fresh Food
Great cooking in one of the hippest yet
most intimate restaurants in town.
P.100 THE LOWER EAST SIDE
BondSt
Some of the freshest and most fashionable
sushi in the city is served up at this modern
spot.
P.108 THE EAST VILLAGE
Balthazar
It’s still hard to get a table in this recreation
of a 1920s Parisian brasserie – and well
worth the wait.
P.94 SOHO
Contents Ideas
52
Though it’s not
Churches and synagogues
exactly a city
steeped in religion,
New York’s
churches and
synagogues reflect
its ethnic diversity,
demographic
evolution, and
architectural
ambitiousness. You
don’t necessarily
need to take in a
service to
appreciate the
pleasures of the
archetypal places
below – just
standing inside may
transport you to a
higher place.
Contents Ideas
53
St Mark’s
Church in-the-
Bowery
Though better known
for its literary events,
this Neoclassical edifice
is the longest serving
church in the city.
P.106 THE EAST
VILLAGE
Temple Emanu-El
Cavernous building that is America’s largest
synagogue.
P.161 THE UPPER EAST SIDE
St Patrick’s Cathedral
Late nineteenth-century Gothic pastiche of
the great cathedrals of Europe.
P.147 MIDTOWN EAST
Contents Ideas
54
While
New York on the cheap Summerstage concerts in
Central Park
accommodation, Perhaps New York’s most enjoyable bar-
entertainment, and gain, when big names in rock and jazz
play Central Park for free on summer
dining out can weekends.
certainly set you P.155 CENTRAL PARK
back, your visit to
New York doesn’t
have to be
expensive. Indeed,
some experiences –
like taking the
Staten Island ferry –
are within reach of
everyone, whatever
their budget.
Moreover, the city
offers many
bargains and deals
that make various
attractions much more
affordable.
Contents Ideas
55
Day-pass MetroCard
Travel anywhere in the city by bus or train
for under $5.
P.217 ESSENTIALS
Contents Ideas
56
New Yorkers take
Concert halls Symphony Space
A staple for jazz, classical, and world music
their music performances.
seriously. Long lines P.179 THE UPPER WEST SIDE
form for anything
popular, many
concerts sell out,
and summer
evenings can see a
quarter of a million
people turning up in
Central Park for free
opera or symphony
performances. The range of
what’s available is
staggering, but it’s the big
names at the big venues
that pull in the crowds –
always try to book in
advance.
Contents Ideas
57
Lincoln Center
Home to the internationally renowned
Metropolitan Opera, the New York
Philharmonic, and other classical music
heavyweights.
P.171 THE UPPER WEST SIDE
Carnegie Hall
The venerable stage has been graced by
the most eminent names since the hall
opened in 1891.
P.137 TIMES SQUARE AND
The Brooklyn Academy of
THE THEATER DISTRICT Music
America’s oldest performing arts center is
also one of the city’s most adventurous.
P198 THE OUTER BOROUGHS
Beacon Theatre
Big theater that hosts major touring rock
acts.
P.179 THE UPPER WEST SIDE
Contents Ideas
58
The consumer
Big-name shops Bloomingdale’s
Famous department store that stocks
capital of the world, everything and somehow manages to
New York has shops remain the epitome of Upper East Side
style.
that cater to every
P.167 THE UPPER EAST SIDE
possible taste,
preference, and
perversity, in any
combination and, in
many cases, at any
time of day or night.
As such, they’re
reason enough for
visiting the city.
Although there are the
usual chains here, you’ll do
well to concentrate on the
shopping institutions that
have been around for
decades.
Contents Ideas
59
Saks Fifth Avenue
Gorgeously appointed haunt of beautiful
people looking for beautiful designer gar-
ments.
P.152 MIDTOWN EAST
Barney’s
A New York byword for high-flying designer
wear and the best place to find little-known
labels or next season’s hot item.
Macy’s P.167 THE UPPER EAST SIDE
A world unto itself, Macy’s is worth a visit
for its size alone.
P125 CHELSEA AND THE
GARMENT DISTRICT
Tiffany’s & Co
A Fifth Avenue landmark, Tiffany’s is worth
a visit for its famous interior and snooty
assistants.
P.153 MIDTOWN EAST
Bergdorf Goodman
Old-money speaks loudest at the city’s
most elegant department store, known for
its elegant window displays.
P.152 MIDTOWN EAST
Contents Ideas
60
Few New York
Breakfast and brunch spots Home
dining experiences The creative and reasonably priced
American food at this relaxed brunch is
are as civilized as always fresh and superb.
the leisurely P.118 GREENWICH VILLAGE
breakfast or the
bountiful weekend
brunch. The
number of places
offering special
breakfast or brunch
menus is ever
expanding, and, at
some restaurants,
Saturday or Sunday
brunch is the main
attraction. Often,
there is no time
limit to when
breakfast and
brunch are served,
so grab a
newspaper and join the
locals.
Contents Ideas
61
Barney Greengrass
If you’re prepared to stand in line, the self-
styled “sturgeon king” is the place for the
classic lox and eggs brunch.
P.175 THE UPPER WEST SIDE
Contents Ideas
62
While the visitor
Parades and annual events Macy’s Thanksgiving Day
Parade
might well mistake More than two million spectators see the
the rush hour big corporate floats and dozens of marching
bands parade down Central Park West,
crowds of midtown along Broadway to Herald Square.
or the Financial P.220 ESSENTIALS
District for a
(somewhat)
orchestrated
procession, New
York does offer its
fair share of
parades. Almost
every ethnic group
in the city holds an
annual get-together,
often using Fifth
Avenue as its main
drag. The events are
often religious or
political in origin,
though now they are just
as much an excuse for
music, food, and dance.
Contents Ideas
63
Halloween
Every October 31st, America’s largest
Halloween celebration envelops the Village
with spectacular costumes, wigs, and
make-up.
P.220 ESSENTIALS
Contents Ideas
Contents Ideas
Places
Contents Places
Places
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67
Battery Park
Lower Manhattan lets out its
breath in Battery Park, a bright
and breezy greenspace with
inventive landscaping and views
of the Statue of Liberty, Ellis
Island, and America’s largest
harbor.The squat 1811 Castle
Clinton (daily 8.30am–5pm), on
the west side of the park, is the
place to buy tickets for and
board ferries to the Statue of
Liberty and Ellis Island. On the CASTLE CLINTON
Contents Places
68
T.
AY
NEW
S
Hudson River
DW
WEST
MANHATTAN
OA
JER SE Y
BR
N M IVE
Battery DR
Park .R.
Liberty F.D
State Ellis Island M
Museum of Castle
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Battery Park and the Harbor Islands PLACES
Staten Island
Ellis Island Ferry Terminal
BROO
East
River
KLYN
- BATT
ERY TU
Liberty
NNEL
Governors
Island Island
0 400 yds
BROOKLYN
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69
Ellis Island
Museum hours daily
9am–5.15pm; free
t212/363-3200,
wwww.ellisisland.org. Ellis
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70
Contents Places
71
REET
SPRUCE
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Jeremy’s Alehouse 3 El
Les Halles 6
Orange Bear 1
Paris Café 5 0 300 yds ACCOMMODATION
Rise 9 Ritz-Carlton Hotel A
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72
The World Trade Center
Completed in 1973, the 110-story Twin Towers of the World Trade Center were
an integral part of New York’s legendary skyline, a symbol of the city’s social and
economic success. At 1368 and 1362 feet – over a quarter of a mile – the towers
afforded mind-blowing views; on a clear day, visitors to the observation deck
The Financial District PLACES
could see 55 miles into the distance. And although the WTC’s claim to be the
world’s tallest buildings was quickly usurped by Chicago’s Sears Tower (and later
by the Petronas Towers of Kuala Lumpur), by 2001 the towers had become both a
coveted workspace and a much-loved tourist destination.
However, on September 11 2001, as thousands of people began their working
day in the buildings, all that changed when two hijacked planes crashed into the
towers just twenty minutes apart. The subsequent collapse of both towers (as well
as other buildings in the World Trade Center complex) jolted the city and America
out of their sense of invincibility. Hundreds of firefighters, police officers, and res-
cue workers were among the 2749 people who lost their lives in the attack.
At the time of writing, all that remains of the towers is Ground Zero (see oppo-
site), the hole where they once stood, but the foundation of the new World Trade
Center is underway. In 2003, Polish-born American architect Daniel Libeskind was
named the winner of a competition held to decide what shape the new World Trade
Center would take. Libeskind’s visionary design includes the use of windmills, meant
as symbols of energy independence, beneath the planned Tower of Freedom spire,
which will soar 1776 feet high, making the new World Trade Center the second-
tallest structure on earth after the CN Tower in Toronto. In addition to the Tower, there
will be two large public spaces: Park of Heroes and Wedge of Light, which will deploy
precise engineering worthy of ancient Egypt. Underneath it all, Libeskind is leaving
space for a museum about September 11th as well as an official memorial, whose
design will be determined by another international competition.
Contents Places
73
an English church (Richard Washington worshipped here,
Upjohn, its architect, was and his pew is on show.
English), especially in the
sheltered graveyard, resting place The Cunard Building
of such notables as the first 25 Broadway. An impressive
St Paul’s Chapel
Broadway at Fulton St; daily
8am–6pm. The oldest
public building in
continuous use and the
oldest church in
Manhattan, St Paul’s
Chapel dates from
1766 – eighty years
earlier than the current
Trinity Church,
making it almost
prehistoric by New
York standards.
Though the building is
American in feel, its
English architect used
Georgian St Martin-
in-the-Fields in
London as his model
for this unfussy space
of soap-bar blues and
pinks. George ST PAUL’S CHAPEL
Contents Places
74
Oil Company, this is the largest 10am–8pm; free t212/514-3700,
public archive of financial wwww.si.edu/nmai. Cass Gilbert’s
documents and artifacts in the 1907 US Customs House is
world, featuring such finance- now home to the Smithsonian
related objects as the bond National Museum of the
The Financial District PLACES
Contents Places
75
practical accoutrements of The Shrine of
everyday Eastern European Elizabeth Ann Seton
Jewish life, prison garb survivors 7 State St; Mon–Fri 6.30am–5pm, Sat
wore in Nazi concentration & Sun 10am–3pm; t212/269-6865.
camps, photographs, personal This rounded dark, red-brick
Contents Places
76
where you can listen to free reservations on t 212/363-
music, tour historic moored 5481).
ships like the Peking (1911), the
Ambrose Lightship (1908), and
the Wavetree (1855), or book Shops
The Financial District PLACES
Contents Places
77
South Street Seaport emporium Carmine’s Bar and Grill
has it all. 140 Beekman St at Front St
t212/962-8606. In business since
The Strand Seaport 1903, this place specializes in
95 Fulton St between Gold and William northern Italian-style seafood
Les Halles
Restaurants 25 John St between Broadway and
Nassau St t 212/285-8585. This
Bayard heady French bistro is the Rive
1 Hanover Square at Pearl St Gauche fantasy of Kitchen
t212/514-9454. Set in the 1851 Confidential chef Anthony
India House, this maritime- Bourdain, who strives for
themed French-American authenticity but often churns
restaurant earns rave reviews for out Gallic dishes, such as
its inspired seasonal cuisine such escargots in garlic butter and
as autumnal venison with duck confit shepherd’s pie, that
poached pear and spring rack of are over the top.
lamb with honey mustard glaze,
expert service, and magical, if Paris Café
clubby, atmosphere. 119 South St between Beekman St and
Peck Slip t212/240-9797.
Bridge Café Established in 1873, this old-
279 Water St at Dover St t212/227- fashioned bar and restaurant
3344. It is said there’s been a bar played host to a panoply of
here since 1794, but this place luminaries, such as Thomas
looks very up-to-the-minute. Edison, who used the café as a
The good crabcakes come from second office while designing
the local fish market, and there the first electric power station.
are plenty of upscale beers with These days the elegant square
which to wash them down.The bar, tempting seafood specials,
rare eighteenth-century and stellar views of the
framehouse, painted red with Brooklyn Bridge still pull in a
black trim, is well worth a look. lively crowd; entrees go for
Entrees are priced between $16 about $16 and $25.
and $25.
Contents Places
78
Bars well-priced pint mugs of beer
and excellent fresh fish and
seafood, as well as burgers.
Harry’s at Hanover Square
1 Hanover Square between Pearl and Orange Bear
.
The Financial District PLACES
Contents Places
79
Contents Places
80 W.H
RE ET
LAF
UE
STREE
CAN
B
AL S
T. Sewa
123 Watts HOWARD STREET Park
T
1 CANA
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Art Projects PLAZA
LAFAYETTE STREET
WALKER STREET
ICK
EET
3 4 Art in General C H I N AT O W N
CENTRE STREET
International Urban
STR
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6 5 WHITE STREET .
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Archeology A Apex Art BAYARD ST
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8 7 IO
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Totem
City Hall Park and TriBeCa PLACES
ST
IN S
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NKL
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Bubble Lounge 6 2 Lush 15 Odeon 12
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Bubby’s 8 Grace 7 Montrachet DA
STREET
R 4 Puffy’s Tavern
TH S
11
Le Zinc Federal Hall PIN E ST
City Hall 14 T. 13 Nobu 9 Sosa Borella 1
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Danube A L B 16 Liquor Store Bar M5 MNo Moore
M WALL ST 3 TriBeCa Grill 10
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each corner of the lobby, open bridge’s meeting of art and
during office hours, show him function, of romantic Gothic
doing just that: counting out the and daring practicality, became a
money in nickels and dimes. sort of spiritual model for the
The vaulted ceilings ooze with next generation’s skyscrapers.
Contents Places
82
brick-and-stone firehouse dotted
with white stars that played a
crucial role in the rescue efforts
of September 11th.
City Hall Park and TriBeCa PLACES
Shops
J&R Music and Computer
World
15–23 Park Row between Beekman
and Ann sts, Mon–Sat 9am–7.30pm,
Sunday 10am–6.30pm t212/238-
9000. You’ll find some of the
city’s best prices for stereo and
computer equipment here, as
well as a wide selection of
music, including some hard-to-
find recordings.
RESTAURANTS ON WEST BROADWAY
Apex Art
291 Church St between Walker and Restaurants
White sts; Tues–Sat 11am–6pm
t212/431-5270, wwww.apexart.org. Bubby’s
The thematic multimedia 120 Hudson St between Franklin and N
exhibits here are known for Moore sts t212/219-0666. A
their intellectual diversity. relaxed TriBeCa restaurant
Contents Places
83
serving homely health- priced French spot with a lively
conscious American food, such bar made from zinc.
as great scones, mashed potatoes,
rosemary chicken, and soups. A Montrachet
good, moderately priced brunch 239 W Broadway between Walker and
Sosa Borella
460 Greenwich St
between Desbrosses
and Watts sts
t212/431-5093.
Tucked on a quiet
side street, this
Argentine-
Mediterranean
eatery is a
longtime favorite
of locals. Call to
inquire about
TRIBECA tango nights.
Contents Places
84
TriBeCa Grill Lush
375 Greenwich St at Franklin St 110 Duane St between Broadway and
t212/941-3900. Some come Church St t212/766-1275. If you’re
hoping for a glimpse of owner looking for a private and dark
Robert De Niro when they spot to tipple and cuddle, this is
City Hall Park and TriBeCa PLACES
should really be concentrating it. Sexy and secret, all the way.
on the food – fine American
cooking with Asian and Italian No Moore
accents at around $30 a main 234 W Broadway at N Moore St
course.The setting is nice too; t212/925-2595. Sprawling,
an airy, brick-walled eating area friendly lounge with live music.
around a central Tiffany bar. Mostly on weekends. It suits
many that it’s past its prime.
Dylan Prime
62 Laight St at Greenwich St Clubs and music
t212/334-4783. Dim, romantic,
and slightly off the beaten venues
Tribeca path, this is the place for
a stellar martini. Knitting Factory
74 Leonard St between Church St and
Grace Broadway t212/219-3006,
114 Franklin St between Church St and wwww.knittingfactory.com. At this
W Broadway t212/343-4200. An intimate downtown space, you
excellent cocktail and olives can hear all kinds of aural
spot teeming with old-school experimentation, from art-rock
class – there’s a forty-foot and avant-garde jazz to
mahogany bar.Try a Pimm’s electronica, hip-hop, and indie-
Cup. rock. Cover prices vary wildly,
so call ahead.
Liquor Store Bar
235 W Broadway at
White St t212/226-
7121. Homely
little wood-
paneled pub with
sidewalk seating
that feels like it’s
been around since
colonial times. A
welcome respite
from the trendy
local scene. PUFFY’S TAVERN
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85
Chinatown and
Little Italy
Mott Street
Mott Street is Chinatown’s most
obvious tourist restaurant row,
although the streets around –
Canal, Pell, Bayard, Doyers, and
Bowery – host a glut of
restaurants, tea and rice shops,
and Old Country grocers that
are fun to browse in. Cantonese
cuisine predominates, but there
are also many restaurants that
specialize in the spicier
Szechuan and Hunan cuisines,
along with Fukien, Soochow,
and the spicy Chowchou dishes.
Anywhere you enter is likely to
be good, but remember that
most restaurants start closing up
around 10pm so go early.
CHINATOWN
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86
.
Dumpling House 7
ST
Chinatown and Little Italy PLACES
RE TR
EE 4
T N O L I T A Mare Chiaro
ST
Y
New York
EET
A
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Noodletown 17
CE
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LITTLE
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Duck House 18
R Y
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1 Ping’s Seafood 19
GR K
Old Police E N M A R Shanghai
W E
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AN
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ELIZ
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Tart Restaurant 10
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FA
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MADISO
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CANAL STREET
87
Canal Street
Canal Street is Chinatown’s
main all-hours artery crammed
with jewelry shops and kiosks
hawking sunglasses,T-shirts, and
fake Rolexes. At the eastern end
of the thoroughfare, the 1909
Manhattan Bridge’s grand
Beaux Arts entrance marks a
formal end to Chinatown and
almost seems out of place amid
the neon signs and Cantonese
movie theaters.
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Mulberry Street
Little Italy’s main strip,
Mulberry Street, is home to
many of the area’s cafés and
restaurants – and therefore filled
Chinatown and Little Italy PLACES
DiPaolo Dairy
200 Grand St at Mott St t212/226-
1033. Charming and
authoritative family-run business
that sells some of the city’s best
ricotta, along with a fine
selection of aged balsamic
vinegars, oils, and homemade
pastas.
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89
Chinatown’s best resource for serving very inexpensive noodle
Asian gourmets; you’ll find soups and seafood dishes.The
imported foods and terrific house specialty is a big bowl of
bargains on housewares, rice noodles with shrimp, fish,
including bamboo steamers and or duck.
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90
chic and shiny clean eatery and serves fresh, cheap, and spicy
dishes up – you guessed it – seafood dishes – clams, mussels,
duck. Be sure your crispy fried and squid. Its cafeteria decor has
bird is carved tableside. its local charms.
Chinatown and Little Italy PLACES
Ping’s Seafood
22 Mott St between Bayard and Pell sts Bars
t212/602-9988. While this Hong
Kong seafood restaurant is good Double Happiness
anytime, it’s most enjoyable on 174 Mott St at Broome St t212/941-
weekends for dim sum, when 1282. Low ceilings, dark lighting,
carts of tasty, bite-size delicacies and lots of nooks and crannies
whirl by for the taking every make this downstairs bar an
thirty seconds. intimate place, but there’s not
much besides its name that is
Shanghai Cuisine Asian. If the decor doesn’t
89 Bayard St at Mulberry St seduce you, one of the house
t212/732-8988. The thing to specialties – a green tea martini
order here is the crab-pork soup – should soon loosen you up.
dumplings – they’ll make you
swoon. At night Polynesian-style Mare Chiaro
tiki drinks flow for an extra 176-1/2 Mulberry St between Broome
good time. and Grande sts t212/226-9345.
Looks like a backroom hang-
Sweet ‘n’ Tart Restaurant out from the Sopranos but is
20 Mott St at Canal St t212/964- really a favorite local dive bar
0380. The place for shark’s-fin for all.
soup and other Hong Kong-
style seafood delicacies, as well Sweet & Vicious
as superb dim sum.Very 5 Spring St between Bowery and
popular, so expect to wait. Elizabeth St t212/334-7915. A
neighborhood favorite, it’s the
Thailand epitome of rustic chic with its
106 Bayard St at Baxter St exposed brick and wood, replete
t212/349-3132.The well-priced with antique chandeliers.The
Thai food here is eaten at long atmosphere makes it seem all
communal tables. The whole cozy, as does the back garden.
fish dishes, crispy and spicy, are
standouts. Winnie’s
104 Bayard St between Baxter and
Vincent’s Mulberry sts t212/732-2384.Cheesy
119 Mott St at Hester St t212/226- tunes dominate at this tropical
8133. A Little Italy mainstay lounge-cum-karaoke dive bar
that’s been around for decades that’s a hit with everyone from
hipsters to Asian tourists.
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91
SoHo
The grid of streets between Houston and Canal, SoHo
(short for South of Houston) was a gray wasteland of
PLACES SoHo
manufacturers and wholesalers in the nineteenth centu-
ry, known for its distinctive cast-iron arhcitecture, that
even up to the 1960s was considered a slum. Since
then, it has come to signify fashion chic, urbane shop-
ping, and art, and its high-end chains attract hordes of
tourists. It’s a grand place for brunching at an outside
café or poking in and out of chi-chi antique and clothes
shops, and there are a few good galleries to speak of.
NoLita
Just east of Broadway and south
of Houston Street, fashion, style,
and nonchalant living have found
fertile breeding ground in the
area referred to as NoLita
(“North of Little Italy”). Every
street is lined with designer
SOHO STREELIGHT
Cast-iron architecture
SoHo contains one of the largest collections of cast-iron buildings in the world,
erected on these cobblestone streets between 1869 and 1895. Cast-iron archi-
tecture was to assemble buildings quickly and cheaply, with iron beams rather
than heavy walls carrying the weight of the floors. The result was greater space
for windows and remarkably decorative facades. Glorifying SoHo’s sweatshops,
architects indulged themselves in Baroque balustrades, forests of Renaissance
columns, and all the effusion of the French Second Empire. Many fine examples
of cast-iron architecture can be glimpsed along Broadway and Greene Street.
Contents Places
92
boutiques, coffeehouses, and neighborhood food emporia.
restaurants, and it’s not cheap, but Very chic, very SoHo, and not
the young, artsy, and restless who at all cheap.
hang outside the area’s
proliferation of über-trendy spots Henry Lehr
SoHo PLACES
Ina
555-Soul 21 Prince St between Elizabeth and
290 Lafayette St between Prince and Mott sts t212/334-9048. Favorite
Spring sts t212/431-2404. A must- consignment shop selling recent
visit for hip-hop kids and season cast-offs. Full of bargains;
skateboarders, this store is there’s a men’s branch too.
chockablock full of baggy pants,
hats,T-shirts, and bags for every Kate Spade
B-boy and girl. 454 Broome St at Mercer St
t212/274-1991. Showroom and
Dean and Deluca store for one of the city’s hottest
560 Broadway at Prince St t212/226- accessory gurus – products are
6800. One of the original big preppy but have point of view.
MACDOUGAL STREET
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EATING & DRINKING
Aquagrill 14 Dos Caminos 2 Merc Bar 6 Raoul’s 8
Balthazar 16 Fanelli 11 Mercer Kitchen 9 Rialto 1
Bar 89 18 Gitane 10 Once Upon a Tart 7 Spring Street
Blue Ribbon Sushi 15 Kelley & Ping 4 Peasant 12 Natural Restaurant 17
Café Lebowitz 13 L’Ecole 21 Pravda 3 Woo Lae Oak 5
Cendrillon 19 Le Pain Quotidien 20
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93
industrial design –
some at
reasonable prices.
Pierre Garroudi
PLACES SoHo
139 Thompson St
between Houston and
Prince sts t212/475-
2333. A limited
design line with
unusual fabrics,
WINDOW SHOPPING IN SOHO colors, and styles.
Bias-cut dresses, wedding
Kate’s Paperie gowns, and tailored suits go for
561 Broadway between Prince and reasonable prices. All of the
Spring sts t212/941-9816. Any clothes are made on the
kind of paper you can imagine premises, and they can make any
or want, including great item for you overnight.
handmade and exotic paper. If
you can’t find something – ask; Push
they’ll even custom-make 240 Mulberry St between Prince and
stationery for you. Spring sts t212/965-9699. One of
the city’s hippest jewelry stores,
Language where one-of-a-kind items are
238 Mulberry St between Prince and displayed amid breezy
Spring sts t212/431-5566. You surroundings on dollhouse
may have to take out a loan to furniture.
shop at Language, where art,
beauty, and fashion combine to Seize Sur Veinte
stunning effect. A sure bet for 243 Elizabeth St between Houston and
the most original designer labels. Prince sts t212/343-0476.
Boutique known for its
Mixona exquisite hand-tailored shirts.
262 Mott St between Houston and
Prince sts t646/613-0100.
Gorgeous (and expensive) grabs
Galleries
for those with a fetish for
undergarments that are both Artists Space
sexy and functional. 38 Greene St Tues–Sat 11am–6pm
t212/226-3970, Wwww.artists
MoMA Design Store space.org. This video, performance
81 Spring St at Crosby St t646/613- art, architecture, and design space
1367. A trove of designed goods has been a SoHo mainstay for
that range from cheap to over thirty years.
astronomical. Good for
browsing and gift ideas. The Drawing Center
35 Wooster St Tues–Fri 10am–6pm,
Moss Sat 11am–6pm t212/219-2166,
146 Greene St between Houston and Wwww.drawingcenter.org.
Prince sts t212/226-2190. Contemporary and historical
Exceptionally curated gallery- drawing exhibits are the order
boutique selling unusual of the day at this committed
examples of great contemporary nonprofit organization.
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94
Once Upon a
Tart
135 Sullivan St
between Houston
and Prince sts
SoHo PLACES
t212/387-8869.
Good for
reasonably
priced light
lunches and
sugar cravings,
and oh so
quaint (and
cramped).
ELIZABETH STREET
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95
French bistro serving stick-to- restaurant that serves a tasty
your-ribs seasonal risottos ($12) bowl of noodle soup. Dark
and excellent Hungarian wooden cases filled with Thai
goulash ($14.50). herbs and cooking ingredients
add to the casually elegant (and
PLACES SoHo
Cendrillon unusual) setting.
45 Mercer St between Broome and
Grand sts t212/343-9012. This Mercer Kitchen
fine pan-Asian restaurant, run by 99 Prince St at Mercer St in Mercer
a passionate Filipino couple, Hotel t212/966-5454. This hip
serves consistently exceptional basement hangout and eatery
food, such as its vinegary adobo, for hotel guests and scenesters
not to mention creative entices with the casual culinary
cocktails with rare fruit and creations of star chef Jean
spice infusions.The prices are Georges Vongerichten, who
decent, and the desserts will makes ample use of his raw bar
make you swoon. and wood-burning oven.Try the
roasted lamb sandwich ($15).
Dos Caminos
475 W Broadway at Houston St Peasant
t212/277-4300. Thoughtful, real- 194 Elizabeth St between Prince and
deal Mexican served with style Spring sts t212/965-9511. A bit of a
– try the table-side guacamole. hangout after-hours for city chefs,
here you’ll pay around $22–30 for
L’Ecole hearty grilled entrees, such as lamb
462 Broadway at Grand St t212/219- or fish, served from an open
3300. Students of the French kitchen.
Culinary Institute serve up
affordable Gallic delights here – Raoul’s
and they rarely fail.The three- 180 Prince St between Sullivan and
course prix-fixe dinner costs Thompson sts t212/966-3518. This
$29.95 per person; book in sexy French bistro is
advance. Closed Sun. comfortable, authentic, and
entertaining for its people-
Kelley & Ping watching into the night. A
127 Greene St between Prince and beloved New York standby.
Houston sts t212/228-1212. Sleek
pan-Asian tea room and Rialto
265 Elizabeth St between
Houston and Prince sts
t212/334-7900. Serious
home-style American
cooking in unlikely
surroundings – an
elegant room with
curved red leather
banquettes, filled with
beautiful, chic people,
and a refreshing garden
in back. Not as expensive
as the clientele looks
either.
CAST-IRON FACADES IN SOHO
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96
Spring Street Natural modern lounge with soft blue
Restaurant light spilling down over the bar,
62 Spring St at Lafayette St giving the place a trippy, pre-
t212/966-0290. Not wholly dawn feel. Check out the clear
vegetarian, but very good, liquid crystal bathroom doors
SoHo PLACES
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97
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98
EA Tompkins
ST
ACCOMMODATION 0 200 yds
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The Lower East Side PLACES
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and two communal toilets for of the Jewish Lower East Side,
every four families. Guided which extends to the 1903
tours include the Getting By: Williamsburg Bridge to
Weathering the Great Brooklyn. Much of this area has
Depressions of 1873 and 1929 lost the traditional Sunday bustle
Tour (Tues–Fri, every 40 of Jewish market shopping,
minutes from 1–4pm; free with which has been replaced by the
museum admission) and the Saturday afternoon Spanish
kid-friendly Confino Family chatter of the new residents
Apartment Tour (Sat & Sun shopping for records,
hourly noon–3pm; $9, students inexpensive clothes, and
and seniors $7).The museum electrical goods. Nearby Clinton
also offers an hour-long Sunday Street is an unusual
walking tour of the Lower East thoroughfare mixing cheap
Side’s ethnic neighborhoods Latino retailers and fine
(call for times). restaurants, and is in many ways
the central thoroughfare of the
Delancey and Clinton streets Dominican Lower East Side.
Orchard Street bisects Delancey
Street, the lower horizontal axis
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99
Essex Street Market Eldridge Street Synagogue
Mon–Sat 8am–6pm. On either side 12 Eldridge St between Canal and
of Delancey Street sprawls the Division sts, tours offered Tues & Thurs
Essex Street Market, erected at 11.30am and 2.30pm; Sun hourly
under the aegis of Mayor 11am–4pm; $5, students and seniors
Kossar’s Bialys
367 Grand St between Essex and
Norfolk sts t212/473-4810. A
generations-old kosher treasure
serves, bar none, the city’s best
bialys, a flattened savory dough
traditionally topped with onion.
Contents Places
The Lower East Side PLACES 100
THE BOWERY
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Katz’s WD-50
205 E Houston St at Ludlow St 50 Clinton St between Rivington and
t212/254-2246. Venerable Stanton sts t212/477-2900.
Lower East Side Jewish deli Celebrated chef Wylie
serving archetypal overstuffed DuFresne takes on the
Happy Ending
302 Broome St between Eldridge and
Forsythe sts t212/334-9676. This
duplex hotspot milks its
location’s former past as a
massage parlour of ill repute; a
drink in one of its shower stall
nooks might make some feel
THE ELDRIDGE STREET SYNAGOGUE naughty.
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102
wwww.arlene-
grocery.com. This
intimate, erstwhile
bodega hosts free gigs
by local indie talent
The Lower East Side PLACES
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104
fashioned by New York’s best
cabinetmakers of the day, and
personal possessions of the
house’s original inhabitants.
Weekend tours are led by
The East Village PLACES
Square
IR VING PLAC E
Park
EAST 15TH STREET
M M M M
BRO
THIRD AVENUE
1
FIRST AVENUE
FOU
WA
Kiehl’s
Y
RTH
St. Mark’s-in-
NUE
20
21
FIRST AVENUE
22
EAST 5TH STREET
Other Music
24
25
Merchant’s
STREET
4TH 26 27
STREET
Screaming House EAST
Mimi’s Museum
28
B R O A D WAY
G R E AT J O N E S
S T. EAST
S T R E E T
L A FAY E T T E
BOW
31 30
BOND STREET CBGB and
OMFUG 315
ERY
E A S T
Bowery
M E R C E R
32 33 34
ELIZAB
M E A S T 1 S T S T R E E T
MOTT
Bowery
35 Poetry Club
ETH ST
LUDLOW ST
STREET
ALLEN ST.
M
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M
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TA N
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known as the place where, in Grace Church
1860, Abraham Lincoln wowed Broadway and East 10th St t212/254-
an audience of top New Yorkers 2000. The lacy marble of Grace
with his so-called “might makes was built and designed in 1846
right” speech, in which he by James Renwick (of St
d.b.a. 30
Decibel 7
A N
D
C
B
A
Dok Suni 16
First 25
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
K L I N
Lakeside Lounge 3
EAST 10TH STREET Mama’s Food Shop 29
Charlie Parker’s McSorley’s Old Ale House 14
R O O S E V E L
House
EAST 9TH STREET Mermaid Inn 21
Tompkins Podunk Café 22
Square Prune 33
Park EAST 8TH STREET SEA Thai 26
Second Avenue Deli 5
17 Shabu Tatsu 4
7 T H S T R E E T ALPHABET CITY St Dymphna’s 12
18 Standard 6
AV ENUE
Star Foods 34
D R
6 T H S T R E E T
6BC Botanical Temple Bar 35
Garden Thé Adoré 1
23
I V
Time Café 28
EAST 5TH STREET
6B Garden Veniero’s 2
E
Veselka 8
B
C
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Zum Schneider 17
AV ENUE
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
4TH STREET
3RD STREET
29
NuYorican
Poets Café
BARUC
CO LU M BI
2 N D S T R E E T
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CLINTON ST
SUFFOLK ST.
Fish Park
NORFOLK
ST.
ESSEX ST.
0 500 yds
ST.
ET
ET
.
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107
and visitors line up six deep 2.5 million+, this is the largest
here for any and all kinds of book operation in the city.
cuts; $15 and up. Recent review copies and new
books show up at half price;
East Village older books are from 50¢ up.
Kiehl’s
109 3rd Ave between E 13th and 14th Cafés
sts t212/677-3171. An exclusive
150-year-old pharmacy that sells Thé Adoré
its own range of natural 17 E 13th St, between 5th Ave and
ingredient-based classic creams University Place T212/243-8742.
and oils. Charming little tearoom with
excellent pastries, Japanese
Love Saves the Day scones, and croissants. Daytime
119 2nd Ave at E 7th St t212/228- hours only; closed Sundays
3802. Fairly cheap vintage as well
as classic lunchboxes and other Podunk Café
kitschy nostalgia items, including 231 E 5th St between 2nd Ave and
valuable Kiss and Star Wars dolls. Cooper Square t212/677-7722. The
desserts at this warm and fuzzy
Other Music bakery-café have been known
15 E 4th St between Broadway and to bring some to tears; scones,
Lafayette St t212/477-8150. This savory quiches, and chewy,
excellent small shop has perhaps unbelievably delicious coconut
the most engaging and curious bars are all good bets.
indie-rock and avant-garde
collection in the city. Records Veniero’s
here are divided into categories 342 E 11th St between 1st and 2nd
like “In,” “Out,” and “Then.” aves t212/674-7070. A beloved
East Village institution, tempting
Screaming Mimi’s the neighborhood with
382 Lafayette St at E 4th St heavenly pastries since 1894.
t212/677-6464. One of the
most established vintage stores
in Manhattan, Screaming
Restaurants
Mimi’s offers clothes (including
lingerie), bags, shoes, and B & H Dairy
housewares at reasonable 127 2nd Ave between E 7th St and St
prices. Mark’s Place t212/505-8065.
Good veggie choice, this tiny
Strand Bookstore luncheonette serves homemade
828 Broadway at E 12th St t212/473- soup, challah, and latkes.You can
1452, wwww.strand also create your own juice
books.com.With about eight combination to stay or go.
miles of books and a stock of
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BondSt First
6 Bond St, between Broadway and 87 1st Ave between E 5th and 6th sts
Lafayette T 212/777-2500. Steeply t212/674-3823. Sophisticated East
priced, very hip multileveled, Village spot serving innovative
Japanese restaurant.The sushi is combinations of New American
The East Village PLACES
amazing, the miso-glazed sea bass fare, like tuna steak au poivre and
exquisite, and the steak a treat. double-thick pork chops.
Moderately priced – entrees
Brick Lane Curry House average about $18, but there is a
343 E 6th St between 1st and 2nd aves cheaper “anytime” menu.
t212/979-2900. Hands-down the
best Indian in the East Village Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar
thanks to its expanded selection 246 E 5th St between 2nd and 3rd aves
of traditional favorites, which t212/673-0338. De-constructed
include fiery phaal curries. dishes, such as savory octopus
spread and aphrodisiacal oysters
Chez Es Saada plates, and a twelve-seat silver-
42 E 1st St between 1st and 2nd sts accented dining room make this
t212/777-5617. The decor eatery in an old carriage house
evokes visions of Tangiers, while an intimate and full-on romantic
rose petals line the stairs.The experience.
expensive menu is a mix of
French and Moroccan fare, and Jules
the bar hops with nightly DJs 65 St Mark’s Place between 1st and
pulling in the black-clad crew – 2nd aves t212/477-5560.
it’s worth it to get a drink and Comfortable and authentic
an appetizer and take it all in. French restaurant, a rarity in the
East Village, serving up
Dok Suni moderately priced bistro fare
119 1st Ave between E 5th St and St and a good-value brunch on
Mark’s Place t212/477-9506. Hip weekends.
around the edges with great
prices to boot, this is an excellent Mama’s Food Shop
bet for Korean cuisine.The only 200 E 3rd St between aves A and B
real drawback is its metal t212/777-4425. Whopping
chopsticks that retain heat and portions of tasty and cheap-as-
make for slippery eating utensils. all-get-out “home cooking.”
SIXTH STREET
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109
Specialties include meatloaf,
macaroni and cheese, and a good
selection of roasted vegetables.
Mermaid Inn
Prune
54 E 1st St between 1st and 2nd aves
t212/677-6221. Cramped, yet THE VILLAGE VOICE
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Bars Decibel
240 E 9th St between 2nd and 3rd
aves t212/979-2733. A rocking
7B atmosphere (with good tunes)
108 Ave B at E 7th St t212/473-8840. envelops the great, beautifully
The East Village PLACES
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111
snug Irish watering-hole a
favorite among young East
Villagers.
Standard
Zum Schneider
107-109 Ave C at E 7th St t212/598-
1098. A German beer hall (and
indoor garden) with a mega-list
of brews from the Fatherland, WINDOW DISPLAY IN THE EAST VILLAGE
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Greenwich Village
For many visitors, Greenwich Village – or simply “the
Village” – is the most-loved neighborhood in New York.
Greenwich Village PLACES
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WE WE WE
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town: all-day cafés, late-night Village addresses – Edna St
bars, cheap record stores, Vincent Millay, the young poet
traditional bakeries and food and playwright, Cary Grant,
shops, and the occasional good and John Barrymore all lived at
restaurant or pizzeria. no. 751/2 – said to be the
Greenwich Village PLACES
Christopher Street
The Village’s main gay artery
runs from Sixth Avenue to West
Street passing many a gay bar,
designer boutique, and café.The
lively street’s weekend cruise
scene is still strong, although the
domain is by no means as
JEFFERSON MARKET COURTHOUSE exclusively gay as it once was; all
Contents Places
115
Contents Places
116
apothecary in the
country – and that’s
exactly how it looks,
with the original
Victorian shop-
Greenwich Village PLACES
Village Comics
214 Sullivan St
between W 3rd and
Bleecker sts
t212/777-2770.
BABBO
Old and new
Contents Places
117
books, limited editions, trading
cards, and action figures fill the
store, occasionally graced by
celebrity appearances.
Contents Places
118
and fries in town. An excellent restaurant that serves some of
place to unwind and refuel in a the city’s best and most popular
friendly neighborhood pizza, with a crust that is thin
atmosphere, it’s also a and coal-charred.
longstanding literary haunt; can
Greenwich Village PLACES
Contents Places
119
and plenty of kitsch. Be careful, piano bar/cabaret elevates gay
gets really crowded. bar culture to a new level. A fun
place for anyone, gay or straight,
Wallse to stop for a tipple.
344 W 11th St at Washington St
Cubby Hole
281 W 12th St at W 4th St t212/243-
9041. This pocket-size lesbian
bar is warm and welcoming,
with a busy festive atmosphere,
loads of decorations that dangle
from the ceiling, and
unpretentious clientele.
Duplex
61 Christopher St at 7th Ave S
t212/255-5438. A neighborhood
institution, this entertaining THE BLUE NOTE
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120
and funk from 10pm to
3.30am. No cover; one-drink
minimum.
Groove
125 MacDougal St at W 3rd St
t212/254-9393,
wwww.clubgroove.com. This
hopping joint features rhythm &
PLAYING CHESS IN WASHINGTON
blues and soul music; it’s one of
SQUARE PARK the best bargains around. Happy
hour 6–9pm. Music starts at
White Horse Tavern 9.30pm. No cover.
567 Hudson St at W 11th St
t212/243-9260. Greenwich S.O.B.’s
Village institution where Dylan 204 Varick St at W Houston St
Thomas supped his last before t212/243-4940. This lively
being carted off to hospital with club/restaurant, with regular
alcohol poisoning.The beer and Caribbean, salsa, and world
food are cheap and palatable music acts, puts on two
here, and outside seating is performances a night. Admission
available in the summer. $10–20 for standing room and
$10–15 minimum cover at
tables. No cover for those with
Clubs and music dinner reservations. Check out
Samba Saturday, the venue’s
venues hottest night.
Village Underground
55 Bar 130 W 3rd St between Macdougal St
55 Christopher St between 6th and 7th and 6th Ave t212/777-7745,
aves; t212/929-9883. Really, wwww.thevillageunderground.com.
really special underground jazz This wee place is one of the most
bar; the best of the old guard. intimate and innovative spaces
No credit cards. around, where you might catch
anyone from Guided By Voices to
Arthur’s Tavern RL Burnside; daily 9pm–4am.
57 Grove St between Bleecker St and
7th Ave t212/675-6879, Village Vanguard
wwww.arthurstavernnyc.com. This 178 7th Ave S between W 11th and
low-key, fifty-year-old club Perry sts; t212/255-4037,
housed in a landmark building wwww.villagevanguard.com. This
features the Grove St Stompers, jazz landmark still lays on a
who’ve been playing every regular diet of big names. Cover
Monday for the past forty years. is $15–20, with a $10 drink
Jazz from 7pm to 9.30pm, blues minimum. Cash only.
Contents Places
121
General
Theological
Seminary
175 9th Ave at W 21st
St. Founded in 1817,
this is a Chelsea
secret, a harmonious
assembly of ivy-clad
Gothicisms
surrounding a restive
green that feels like
part of a college
campus.Though the
buildings still house THE CHELSEA HOTEL
Contents Places
122 y W. 43RD ST. W.
T
McGraw-Hill
EL
Building
W.
M M M
W. 41ST ST. Brya
LINCOLN Par
TUNNEL W. 40TH ST.
Port Authority
GARMENT
B R
W. 39TH ST. Bus Terminal Pu
TO N.J.
DISTRICT
O A
TWELFTH AVENUE
W. 38TH ST. W.
N.J.
D W
Chelsea and the Garment District PLACES
W. 37TH ST. W.
A Y
W. 36TH ST. W.
AV ENUE
W. 30TH ST.
Garden
AV ENU E
W. 30TH ST. W.
ELEVENTH AVENUE
W. 29TH ST. W.
Bungalow
EIGHTH AVENUE
8 W. 28TH ST. M W. 28TH ST.
Chelsea Park
S IX TH
S EV ENTH
Gorney Bravin W.
+ Lee W. 26TH ST. W.
Barbara Gladstone
Gallery 1 W. 25TH ST. London W.
Pan Gallery 3 2 4
W. 23RD ST. M M M W.
so
6 7 5
W. 22ND ST. General W. 22ND ST.
Brent Chelsea
n
Max Protetch
AV ENUE
Sikkema Theological 8 Hotel
Ri
Pat Hearn
Gallery W. 20TH ST. C H E L S E A W.
r
10
E I G H T H AV E N U E
AV ENUE
11 Joyce
M Navy Store
ELF
W. 18TH ST. W.
TENTH
TH
SEVENTH
W. 17TH ST. W.
Chelsea
AV E
NINTH
12 13 Loehmann’s
0 200 yds W. 16TH ST. Market W.
NUE
14
W. 15TH ST. W.
15 16
W. 14TH ST. M M M W.
GR
EATING & DRINKING EE
W. 13TH ST. NW W
Bottino 1 Half King 3 Maroon’s I14
CH Red Cat
W. 12TH ST. ORT S
T. 2
NUE
A
Bright Food Shop 8 La Luncheonette 11SEVO The Old Homestead 16 V E NRocking Horse 10 W.
VE
N UE
Empire Diner 7 Mare GA 9 T.Open 6 Serena 5
TH A
S W. 11TH ST.
F&B 4 Maritime Hotel Bar 12 I O Passerby 15 Suite 16 13
HU
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E IG H
A
GR
R
HO S T. W.
C
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EE
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HS
O
N
W
T
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123
Dylan Thomas staggered in and explore the continent (“Go
out during their New York West, young man!”); he also
visits. In 1951 Jack Kerouac, supported the rights of women
armed with a specially adapted and trade unions, while
typewriter (and a lot of denouncing slavery and capital
Contents Places
124
new entryway to the Long to open in 2008 as Moynihan
Island Railroad ticket area on Station, named after recently
West 34th Street at Seventh deceased US Senator Daniel
Avenue: one of the old station’s Patrick Moynihan from New
four-faced timepieces hangs York.
Chelsea and the Garment District PLACES
Gorney
Bravin + Lee
534 W 26th St between 10th and 11th
aves t212/352-8372. This
exciting group of dealers makes
it their mission to show and sell
cutting-edge contemporary
works.
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125
founded by an art world
pioneer, continues to morph
Restaurants
with the times in its displays of
conceptual works. Bottino
246 10th Ave between W 24th and
Contents Places
126
Red Cat
227 10th Ave between W 23rd and
24th sts t212/242-1122. Superb
service, a fine American-
Mediterranean kitchen, and a
Chelsea and the Garment District PLACES
Rocking Horse
182 8th Ave between W 19th and 20th
sts t212/463-9511. The
reasonably priced Mexican
cuisine, highlighted by such
dishes as seared salmon
Napoleon, is highly inventive,
while the mojitos and
margaritas pack a punch.
Bars
Half King
MACY’S DEPARTMENT STORE 505 W 23rd St between 10th and 11th
aves t212/462-4300. This popular
Mare Irish pub is owned by a small
198 8th Ave at W 20th St t212/675- group of writer/artists and
7522. This fish and seafood features good food and regular
restaurant is a welcome if literary events.They’ve been
slightly pricey fixture to known to book some heavy-
Chelsea’s burgeoning restaurant hitters.
ghetto, with good fresh fish
dishes and a raw bar.Try the Maritime Hotel Bar
crabcakes. 363 W 16th St at 9th Ave t212/242-
4300. Savor a martini in this
Maroon’s swanky, spacious lounge with
244 W 16th St between 7th and 8th elegant French doors in one of
aves t212/206-8640. Successful the city’s latest (and most
Caribbean and Southern food successful) architectural
in a hot and hopping basement conversions.
space, with some of the most
potent cocktails for blocks. Open
559 W 22nd St at 11th Ave t212/243-
The Old Homestead 1851. This red-hued mod
56 9th Ave between W 14th and 15th lounge throws open its doors in
sts t212/242-9040. Steak. good weather for beautiful
Period. But really gorgeous people and sunset drinks.
steak, served in an almost
comically old-fashioned walnut Passerby
dining room by waiters in 436 W 15th St between 9th and 10th
black vests. Huge portions, but aves t212/206-7321. Tiny, funky
expensive. space with a lighted floor that
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127
looks as if it’s straight from parties, and a relaxed door
Saturday Night Fever. Perennially policy all lend themselves to a
full of black-clad lovelies, weird damn fine time; $12.
mirrors, and art world gossip.
g
Roxy
Clubs and music 515 W 18th St between 10th and 11th
aves t212/645-5156. For a true
venues blast from the 1970s past, go for
Wednesday night roller-skating
Bungalow 8 to disco classics. On other nights
515 W 27th St between 10th and 11th this stalwart dance club still
aves t212/629-3333. An elite packs them in. A sheer New
club frequented by celebs whose York institution.
name was inspired by the
bungalows at Hollywood’s Suede
Beverly Hills Hotel. Cover 161 W 23rd St between 5th and 6th
$25–50. aves t212/633-6113. This cool,
neutral-toned nightclub is a
Frying Pan magnet for hipsters and celebs
Pier 63, Chelsea Piers at W 23rd St such as Britney Spears. Its small
t212/989-6363. This old dance floor and delicious
lightship is one of the coolest people-watching make for a
club venues in the city. Great good time. Cover $20.
views, consistently rockin’
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128
Union Square,
Gramercy Park, and
Union Square, Gramercy Park, and Murray Hill PLACES
Murray Hill
Sixth Avenue forms a dividing line between Chelsea to
the west and the area that comprises Union Square and
Gramercy Park. For a glimpse of well-preserved nine-
teenth century New York, it’s well worth a jaunt around
the more genteel parts of these two neighborhoods,
before heading up toward Murray Hill, a rather anony-
mous district of canopy-fronted apartment buildings
(bound by East 34th and 40th streets between Third and
Madison avenues), best known for the tallest of New
York’s skyscrapers, the Empire State Building.
Union Square Irving Place
Founded as a park in 1813, Although he never actually
Union Square became the site lived along the street, this
of many political protests and seven-block strip, was named
workers’ rallies between the for Washington Irving, the early
Civil War and the twentieth nineteenth-century American
century. Later, the area evolved writer whose creepy tale of the
into an elegant theater and Headless Horseman, The Legend
shopping district.Today, the of Sleepy Hollow, has itself now
square invites you to stroll its passed into literary and
paths, feed the squirrels, and celluloid legend. A bust of the
gaze at its array of statuary – a author, the first American
welcome respite from rushed writer to earn a living from his
pedestrians on 14th Street, not craft, stands in front of the
least because of its Farmers’ turn-of-the-nineteenth-century
Market, held Monday, Washington Irving High
Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday School.
from 7am to 6pm.
Theodore
Roosevelt’s birth-
place
28 E 20th St between Park
Ave S and Broadway;
Tues–Sat 9am–5pm; $3,
under 16 free; t212/260-
1616. Theodore
Roosevelt’s birthplace
was restored in 1923
to the way it would
have been when
GRAMERCY PARK Roosevelt was born
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129
MA
W. 43RD ST. E. 43RD ST.
Bryant
Park
A V E N U E
E. 4OTH ST.
A V E N U E
Lord and
A V E N U E
Taylor M U R R AY H I L L E. 39TH ST.
A D
S E C O N D
E a s
F I R S T
Y
T H I R D
W. 36TH ST. E. 36TH ST.
The Complete E. 35TH ST.
E A S TF D RR I DV
Empire State Traveler
t
M Building
R i v
E. 34TH ST.
M E. 33RD ST.
SECOND AVENUE
1
e r
W. 32ND ST. E. 32ND ST.
RE I RV E
AV ENUE
AVENUE
Transfiguration
AVENUE
D R
LEXINGTON AVENUE
THIRD
FIFTH
I V
W. 27TH ST. E. 27TH ST.
4 Jazz 3
E
W. 26TH ST. E. 26TH ST.
Standard
W. 25TH ST. Madison E. 25TH ST.
Square Metropolitan
W. 24TH ST. Park Life Building E. 24TH ST.
Fly Comedy
SECOND AVENUE
E. 21ST ST.
OA
Avalon 7 8 Gramercy
FIFTH AVENUE
AV ENUE
DW
9
IRVING PLACE
10 11
14 Carpet 12 13
Print W. 18TH ST. & Home E. 18TH ST.
FIRST
BR
AV ENUE
T H I R D AV E N U E
Artisanal
W. 12TH ST. 1 Gramercy Tavern
E. 12TH ST. 8 Republic 18 E. 1
TH
AY
TH ST. E. 1
Bread Bar at Tabla Les Halles E. 11TH ST. 2 Rolf’s
EN
4 6
UE
CityW.Bakery
10TH ST. 14 Mesa Grill E. 10TH ST 15 . Uncle Mo’s Burrito E. 1
E City Crab 11 No Idea 7 & Taco Shop 10
W. 9TH ST.
Coffee Shop 19 Old Town BarE. 9TH ST. Underbar 17 E. 9
Eisenberg’s
W. 8TH ST. Sandwich Shop 5 & RestaurantE. 8TH ST. 12 S T.Union
M A R K ’ SSquare
P L A C E Café 16 E. 8
WAVERLEY PL.
WASHINGTON E. 7TH ST.
T.
SQ N WAV
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130
founded by Booth and sits next
door to the prestigious National
Arts Club at no. 16.
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131
The Empire State Building Thoreau, as well as a copy of the
At 5th Ave and 34th St; daily 1455 Gutenberg Bible.
9.30am–midnight, last trip 11.15pm
$11, $6 for under age 11, ages 12–17
and seniors $10, under 5 free, combined
Shops
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132
print work. Its letterpress churns City Crab
out some of the city’s best- 235 Park Ave S at E 19th St
looking business cards. t212/529-3800. A large and very
popular joint that prides itself
on a large selection of fresh East
Restaurants
Union Square, Gramercy Park, and Murray Hill PLACES
Gramercy Tavern
42 E 20th St between Broadway and
Park Ave S t212/477-0777. One of
NYC’s best restaurants; its Neo-
colonial decor, exquisite New
American cuisine, and perfect
service make for a memorable
meal.The seasonal taster’s menus
are well worth the steep prices,
UNION SQUARE FARMERS’ MARKET but you can also drop in for a
Contents Places
133
drink or more casual meal in commencing around 5pm all
the lively front room. through the week.
Contents Places
134
models, and photographers. It
features great burgers, too.
Pete’s Tavern
129 E 18th St at Irving Place
Hill PLACES
t212/473-7676. Former
speakeasy that claims to be the
oldest bar in New York –
opened in 1864 – though these
days it inevitably trades on its
Union Square, Gramercy Park, and Murray
Contents Places
135
3
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
ELEVENTH AVENUE
EIGHTH AVENUE
AMERICAS)
Carnegie
O A
W. 5 6 T H S T.
Hall
4
SEVENTH AVENUE
W. 5 5 T H S T.
D W
6 5
W. 5 4 T H S T.
7
T E N T H
N I N T H
A Y
(AVE . OF THE
8
T W E L F T H A V E N U E
M I L L E R H I G H W A Y
W. 5 3 R D S T. M
9
W. 5 2 N D S T. Roseland M
10
W. 5 1 S T S T. Iridium Jazz Club
N W. 5 0 T H S T.
12 11
M M M
13 Caroline’s
SIXTH AVENUE
W. 4 9 T H S T. on Broadway
A V E N U E
14 Ro
A V E N U E
Manny’s
E I G H T H AV E N U E
W. 4 8 T H S T.
Music
Swing 46 The Supper Club P
W. 4 7 T H S T. Jazz Club 15 Lyceum
16 17
China Club
N I N T H
DUFFY
Sea-Air-Space 19 Mama SQUARE
ROW
Museum W. 4 5 T H S T. Algonquin
20
W . 4 4 T H S T . Birdland 21
Shubert Theater TIMES
ELEVENTH AVENUE
22
W. 4 3 R D S T. SQUARE
E
New International
T W EL F TH AVENU
M Amsterdam M Center of M
Theater Photography
W. 4 2 N D S T. WEST 41ST ST. G
Bu
New 23
W. 4 0 T H S T. Port Authority Victory
Bus Terminal
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136
Sixth Avenue Capa (brother of war
Sixth Avenue is properly named photographer Robert Capa),
Avenue of the Americas, though this exceptional museum and
no New Yorker calls it this; the school sponsors twenty exhibits
only manifestations of the tag a year dedicated to “concerned
Times Square and the Theater District PLACES
Diamond Row
W 47th St between 5th and
6th aves. You’ll know
Diamond Row by the
diamond-shaped lamps
mounted on pylons at
either end.This strip,
where you can get
jewelry fixed at
reasonable prices,
features wholesale and
retail shops chock full of
gems and was first
established in the 1920s.
These working shops are
largely managed by
Hasidic Jews sporting
their traditional beards,
sidelocks, and dark suits
fashioned from styles
that existed years ago in
the ghettos of Poland.
DIAMOND ROW
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137
Attending a show
If you want to see a show, check out the TKTS booth in Times Square, which sells
half-price, same-day tickets for Broadway shows (Mon–Sat 3–8pm, Sun
11am–7pm, also Wed & Sat 10am–2pm for 2pm matinees). The booth has avail-
able at least one pair of tickets for each performance of every Broadway and off-
Broadway show, at 25- to 50-percent off (plus a $3 per ticket service charge),
payable in cash or travelers’ checks only. Also, many theater box offices sell great-
ly reduced “standing room only” tickets the day of the show.
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publisher Adolph Ochs staged a Hell’s Kitchen
New Year’s celebration here in Between 30th and 59th streets
honor of their opening, a west of Eighth Avenue, Hell’s
tradition that continues today, Kitchen today mostly centers
though the paper itself has long on the engaging slash of
Times Square and the Theater District PLACES
Contents Places
139
capsules from the Mercury and to show exciting works:
Gemini space missions and painting, sculpture, and
made several trips to Vietnam. photography from
Today it holds an array of contemporary masters, as well as
modern and vintage air- and retrospectives of its past artists.
Contents Places
140
come is atmosphere, provided stabbed with succulent slabs of
by the park, whether viewed grilled pork, chicken, and lots of
from within the spacious dining beef. Be careful – while the all-
room or enjoyed al fresco on you-can-eat dinner price is a
the terrace. The Café at Bryant hefty $42.95, the caipirinhas are
Times Square and the Theater District PLACES
JOE ALLEN’S
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141
of the foie gras dishes.The Sugiyama
braised shortribs ($35) is 251 W 55th St between Broadway and
another delicious pick, and 8th Ave t212/956-0670. You may
there’s always a vegetarian want to take out a loan before
entree or two on the menu dining at this superb Japanese
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142
York’s cheapest,
friendliest, and
liveliest dive
bars, a favorite
with local
Times Square and the Theater District PLACES
actors and
musicians.
Rudy’s offers
free hot dogs
and a backyard
that’s great in
the summer.
Russian
Vodka Room
265 W 52nd St
between Broadway
and 8th Ave
t212/307-5835.
Amid the dim
lighting, enjoy
numerous kinds
of vodkas and
42ND STREET ON 42ND ST caviar as well as
the company of
Once sizzling hot, these funky Russian and eastern European
hotel lounges have cooled off expatriates.
but still make for a thrill-and-
swill scene. Ye Olde Tripple Inn
263 W 54th St between Broadway and
Jimmy’s Corner 8th Ave t212/245-9849. No-frills
140 W 44th St between Broadway and Irish bar that serves inexpensive
6th Ave t212/221-9510. The walls food at lunchtime and early
of this long, narrow corridor of evening. A useful place to know
a bar, owned by an ex- in this part of town.
fighter/trainer, are a virtual
Boxing Hall of Fame.You’d be
hard pressed to find a more
characterful dive anywhere in Clubs and music
the city – or a better jazz/R&B
jukebox.
venues
Landmark Tavern Birdland
626 11th Ave at W 46th St t212/757- 315 W 44th St between 8th and 9th
8595. Off-the-beaten-track but aves t212/581-3080, Wwww.birdland
long-established Irish tavern jazz.com. Celebrated alto
with a tasty menu with large saxophonist Charlie “Bird”
portions – the Irish soda bread Parker has served as the
is baked fresh every day. inspiration for this important
jazz venue for fifty years. Sets
Rudy’s are at 9pm and 11pm nightly.
627 9th Ave between W 44th and 45th Cover $20-40, $10 food/drink
sts t212/974-9169. One of New minimum.
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143
Caroline’s on Broadway a bargain at $22 with all-you-
1626 Broadway between W 49th and can-drink mimosas.
50th sts t212/757-4100. This
glitzy room books some of the Roseland
best comedy acts in town.Two- 239 W 52nd St between Broadway
Contents Places
144
Midtown East
Rolling eastward from Fifth Avenue, through the 40s and
50s, is the largely corporate and commercial area
Midtown East PLACES
Contents Places
145
Zoo UPPER EAST SIDE N
EAST 64TH STREET 0 200 yds
MADISON AVENUE
FIFTH AVENUE
PARK AVENUE
Central EAST 63RD STREET
Park
EAST 62ND STREET
RIVERVIEW
M M
TERRACE
E . 5 9 T H S T.
Plaza
THIRD AVENUE
LEXINGTON AVENUE
SECOND AVENUE
P L A C E
A V E N U E
Hotel E . 5 8 T H S T.
Tiffany
Bergdorf & Co. Niketown E . 5 7 T H S T.
Goodman
S U T T O N
Trump Tower 1
G.E. Sony E . 5 6 T H S T.
F I R S T
Building Building
E . 5 5 T H S T.
Museum of Takashimaya St. Peter's 2
Modern Art Museum of Church Citicorp E . 5 4 T H S T.
D R I V E
Television 3 Center
M & Radio M E . 5 3 R D S T.
5 Seagram Building 4
American Olympic Tower E . 5 2 N D S T.
Craft Museum
F . D . R .
6
St. Patrick's M E . 5 1 S T S T.
BEEKMAN PL.
Radio City 7
Music Hall Cathedral
E . 5 0 T H S T.
Waldorf-Astoria
E a s t R i v e r
8
Saks Fifth Hotel 9
PA RK AV EN U E
Rockefeller Avenue
E . 4 9 T H S T.
A V E N U E
Center Caswell- 10
L E X I N G T O N AV E N U E
A V E N U E
Massey Ltd E . 4 8 T H S T.
E . 4 7 T H S T.
Helmsley United
THIRD AVENUE
FIFTH AVENUE
DIAMOND ROW
Building Nations
E . 4 6 T H S T.
JR Cigar Headquarters
S E C O N D
F I R S T
11
VANDERBILT AVENUE
E . 4 5 T H S T. General
MetLife 12 Assembly
(Pan Am) E . 4 4 T H S T. Building
Building
Conference
13 Grand E . 4 3 R D S T. Building
14 Central Chrysler
Building Secretariat
M Station E . 4 2 N D S T.
New York
Bryant Public
Park Library
E . 4 1 S T S T.
E . 4 0 T H S T.
hangout, and you can either scene here can be lively, with free
explore inside by yourself or take jazz and outdoor movie
one of the tours.The highlights screenings.
are the large coffered 636-seat
Reading Room on the third Rockefeller Center
floor, where people as disparate From 5th to 7th aves, between 47th to
as Leon Trotsky, Norman Mailer, 51st sts t212/332-6868,
and E.L. Doctorow worked. wwww.rockefeller
Right behind the public library center.com. The heart of
between W 40th and 42nd midtown’s glamour, Rockefeller
streets, Bryant Park is a grassy, Center was built between 1932
square block filled with slender and 1940 by John D. Rockefeller
trees, flower beds, and inviting Jr, son of the oil magnate, and is
chairs that was formally one of the finest pieces of urban
landscaped in 1934.The summer planning anywhere, balancing
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Midtown East PLACES 146
Contents Places
147
St Patrick’s Cathedral expansion that will result in a
50th Street and 5th Ave. Designed whopping 630,000 square feet
by James Renwick and of exhibition space, the
completed in 1888, St Patrick’s Museum of Modern Art
Cathedral is the result of a (MoMA) is being temporarily
Contents Places
148
Michael Jackson, who keeps a grandeur.You might want to
three-floor duplex here. linger a while on its steps to
ogle the comings-and-goings of
Grand Army Plaza those lucky enough to be
Between 58th and 60th streets staying in one of its 800 rooms
Midtown East PLACES
on Fifth Avenue is one of the – a list that over the years has
city’s most dramatic public included the likes of the Duke
spaces – Grand Army Plaza. and Duchess of Windsor, Frank
Flanked by hotels – the copper- Lloyd Wright, and the Beatles.
lined chateau of the Plaza and, See p.206 for a review.
to the north, the high-necked
Sherry Netherland and the Pierre Madison Avenue
– it boasts a fountain and a gold A block east of Fifth, Madison
statue of Civil War General Avenue runs parallel to it, with
William Tecumseh Sherman. some of its sweep but less of the
excitement. It is a little removed
Plaza Hotel from its 1960s and 1970s prime,
59th St at Central Park South when it was internationally
t212/759-3000 . Familiar from its recognized as the epicenter of
many film appearances, the the advertising industry.
copper-fringed 1907 Plaza Hotel Nevertheless, it remains a major
is worth a peek for its (slightly upscale shopping boulevard.
faded) gilt-and-brocade Several good stores – notably
several specializing in men’s
haberdashery, shoes, and cigars –
can be found on this aristocratic
thoroughfare.
Park Avenue
“Where wealth is so swollen that
PLAZA TEAROOM it almost bursts,” wrote
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149
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150
foot-high windows on the vintage Deco grandeur,
Vanderbilt Avenue side. After sweeping marble, and hushed
that, seek out the station’s more plushness where such well-
esoteric reaches, including a knowns as Herbert Hoover,
new lower concourse brimming Cole Porter, and Princess
Midtown East PLACES
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151
the 1958 Seagram Building was the tower, is for the moment all
the seminal curtain-wall you can see of the building’s
skyscraper. Its floors are interior.
supported internally, allowing
for a skin of smoky glass and Citicorp Center
whisky-bronze metal. Every Lexington Ave between E 53rd and
interior detail – from the 54th sts. Completed in 1979, the
fixtures to the lettering on the chisel-topped Citicorp Center is
mailboxes – was specially one of Manhattan’s most
designed.The plaza, an open conspicuous landmarks.The
forecourt designed to set the slanted roof was designed to
building apart from its house solar panels to provide
neighbors, was such a success as power for the building, and it
a public space that the city adopted the distinctive building-
revised the zoning laws to top as a corporate logo. Inside,
encourage other high-rise there’s also a small St Peter’s
builders to supply plazas. Church, known as “the Jazz
Church” for being the venue of
The Chrysler Building many a jazz musician’s funeral.
405 Lexington Ave between E 42nd and
E 43rd sts. One of Manhattan’s The United Nations
best-loved structures, the Guided tours daily, weekdays
Chrysler Building dates from a 9.30am–4.45pm, weekends
time (1928–30) when architects 10am–4.30pm; $10, seniors $7.50,
married prestige with grace and students $6.50 t212/963-8687,
style.The car-motif friezes, wwww.un.org/MoreInfo/pubsvs. A
jutting gargoyles, and arched must visit for those interested
stainless-steel pinnacle give the in global goings on, the United
solemn midtown skyline a Nations complex comprises the
welcome whimsical touch.The glass-curtained Secretariat, the
lobby, once a car showroom, curving sweep of the General
with its walls covered in African Assembly, and, connecting
marble and murals depicting them, the low-rising
airplanes, machines, and the Conference Wing. Tours –
brawny builders who worked on bring ID for security purposes
Contents Places
152
– take in the UN conference JR Cigar
chambers and its constituent 562 5th Ave at 46th St t212/997-
parts. Even more revealing than 2227. There are over 1000
the stately chambers are its different kinds of cigars on sale
thoughtful exhibition spaces here; its enormous – and
Midtown East PLACES
Shops Niketown
6 E 57th St between 5th and Madison
aves t212/891-6453. A dubious
Bergdorf Goodman though impossible-to-miss
754 5th Ave at 58th St t212/753- attraction and unrestrained
7300. Housed in a former celebration of the sneaker that
Vanderbilt mansion, this needs to be seen to be believed.
venerable department store The overly earnest attempt at a
caters to the city’s wealthiest museum, laden with sound
clientele. Even if you can’t effects, space-age visuals, and
afford to shop, it’s still fun to exhibits inlaid into the floor,
browse and dream. walls, and special display cases
can’t mask the fact that it’s
Caswell-Massey Ltd basically a shop.
518 Lexington Ave at E 48th St
t212/755-2254. The oldest Saks Fifth Avenue
pharmacy in America, Caswell- 611 5th Ave at 50th St t212/753-
Massey sells a shaving cream 4000. Every bit as glamorous as
initially created for George it was when it opened in 1922,
Washington and a cologne Saks remains virtually
blended for his wife, as well as synonymous with style and
more mainstream items. quality. It has updated itself to
carry the merchandise of all the
big designers.
CITICORP CENTER
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153
Takashimaya E 46th St t212/661-3400. Every
693 5th Ave at 54th St t212/350- sushi lover’s favorite sushi
0100. The NY outpost of the restaurant now has two branches.
famed Tokyo store features fine Not at all cheap, so try to get
Japanese and imported goods: there for the prix fixe lunch.
Contents Places
154
Solera this majestic space – built to
216 E 53rd St between 2nd and 3rd look like a thirteenth-century
aves t212/644-1166. Tapas and Florentine palace – was sealed
other Spanish specialties in a up for years. Now, it’s one of
stylish townhouse setting. As New York’s most distinctive
Midtown East PLACES
Contents Places
155
Central Park
“All radiant in the magic atmosphere of art and taste,”
enthused Harper’s magazine upon the opening in 1876
Contents Places
156
animals as close to the
CENTRAL PARK NORTH M EAST 110TH ST. viewer as possible: the
Charles A. Dana
Blockhouse
Discovery Center E. 109TH ST. penguins, for example,
0 400 yds
Harlem
E. 108TH ST.
swim around at eye-
Meer
Lasker E. 107TH ST.
level in Plexiglas
Central Park PLACES
A V E N U E
MANHATTAN AVE.
M E. 103RD ST.
nocturnal creatures,
l and sea lions cavorting
Poo
E. 102ND ST.
E. 90TH ST.
& Road Runners
W. 89TH ST. Club Booth E. 89TH ST.
mid-park at 65th
W. 88TH ST. E. 88TH ST.
Street, you will see the
W. 87TH ST. E. 87TH ST.
octagonal brick
M
W. 86TH ST. E. 86TH ST.
building housing the
Police Precinct
W. 85TH ST. E. 85TH ST.
Carousel. Built in
E. 84TH ST.
W. 84TH ST. Great 1903 and moved to
Lawn E. 83RD ST.
W. 83RD ST.
Metropolitan
the park from Coney
E. 82ND ST.
W. 82ND ST.
Delacorte
Museum Island in 1951, this
of Art E. 81ST ST.
W. 81ST ST. M Swedish
Theater
Obelisk
vintage carousel, one
E. 80TH ST.
Cottage Belvedere Castle of fewer than 150 old
E. 79TH ST.
carousels left in the
Shakespeare
Garden
E. 78TH ST. country, is one of the
W. 77TH ST. Ramble
Alice in
E. 77TH ST.
park’s little gems.
E. 76TH ST.
W. 76TH ST. Loeb Boathouse & Wonderland
Statue
W. 75TH ST. The Boathouse Café E. 75TH ST.
The Mall
Lake Conservatory Krebs
W. 74TH ST.
Water Memorial If the weather’s nice
W. 73RD ST. Bow Bridge Hans Christian E. 73RD ST.
Andersen Statue
head straight to the
W. 72ND ST. M Strawberry
Fields Bethesda
E. 72ND ST.
Mall to witness every
Bandshell
W E S T
W. 71ST ST.
Fountain E. 71ST ST.
manner of street
W. 70TH ST. Rumsey
Playfield
E. 70TH ST.
performer. Flanked by
W. 69TH ST. E. 69TH ST.
statues of the ecstatic-
A V E N U E
P A R K
THE M
E. 63RD ST.
Heckscher Ludwig van
OA
E. 62ND ST.
House Wollman
Beethoven nearby, the
DW
W. 60TH ST.
COLUMBUS
Mall is the park’s most
W. 59TH ST. M CIRCLE CENTRAL PARK SOUTH formal, but by no
means quiet, stretch.
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157
At the southern base
of the Mall is the
only
acknowledgment to
park architect
The Sheep
Meadow
Between 66th and
69th streets on the
western side, this
swath of green is
named for the fifteen
acres of commons
where sheep grazed
until 1934.Today, the
area is crowded in
the summer with
picnic blankets,
sunbathers, and
Frisbee players.Two
grass courts used for
A CARRIAGE RIDE IN THE PARK
lawn bowling and
croquet are found on a hill near area between the Sheep
the meadow’s northwest corner; Meadow and the north end of
to the southeast lie volleyball the Mall becomes filled with
courts. On warm weekends, the colorfully attired rollerbladers
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158
dancing to loud funk, disco, and iron and wood Bow Bridge,
hip-hop music – one of the best designed by park architect
free shows around town. Calvert Vaux.
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159
The Great Lawn
Reseeded and
renewed, the Great
Lawn hosts free
New York
Philharmonic and
Metropolitan Opera
summertime
concerts, features
eight softball fields,
Central Park
and, at its northern
end, new basketball
and volleyball courts
and a running track.
At the southern end
of the lawn, the
refurbished Turtle
Pond, with its new
wooden dock and
nature blind, is a fine
place to view
aquatic wildlife.
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Central Park PLACES 160
THE DAIRY
Cafés Restaurants
Boathouse Café Tavern on the Green
Central Park Rowboat Lake, E 72nd St Central Park West between W 66th and
entrance t212/517-2233. This is a W 67th sts t212/873-3200. This
peaceful retreat from a hard fantastical if tacky tourist trap
day’s trudging around the Fifth remains a New York institution.
Avenue museums, or a romantic The American and Continental
evening destination.You get cuisine has improved in recent
great views of the celebrated years, and on Thursday evenings
skyline and surprisingly good during warmer months, there’s
food, but prices can be steep. dancing under the stars on its
Open year-round. terrace overlooking the park.
BOW BRIDGE
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161
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E. 1 0 7 T H S T.
MADI
162 E. 106TH ST.
FIRST AVENUE
SECOND AVENUE
E. 103RD S T. Luncheonette 1 L’Absinthe 17
THIRD AVENUE
Bistro du Nord 2 Metropolitan
EAST
Mount
The Cocktail Mocca 11
E . 1 0 0 T H S T.
DRIV
Ecco-la 3 Serendipity 3 22
E . 9 8 T H S T. E.A.T. 12 Subway Inn 20
N E . 9 7 T H S T.
El Pollo 4 Wu Liang Ye 8
Elaine’s 6
A E . 9 3 R D S T.
Jewish Museum Wales A
E . 9 2 N D S T.
A V E N U E
DRIV E
FR
Cooper-Hewitt Ruppert Park
Ha
AN
E . 9 1 S T S T.
Museum
KLI
rle
4
ND
E . 9 0 T H S T.
m R
.
5
ROO
ervoir National Academy of Design E . 8 9 T H S T.
SEVE
iver
F I F T H
Guggenheim 6 Gracie
E . 8 8 T H S T. Mansion
LT D R
Museum
E . 8 7 T H S T.
IVE
7
AD E . 8 6 T H S T. M EAST END AVENUE Carl
NO.
3 8 9 Schurz
E . 8 5 T H S T. Park
A V E N U E
THIRD AVENUE
E . 8 4 T H S T.
SECOND AVENUE
10 Metropolitan
YORK AVENUE
Museum of Art E . 8 3 R D S T.
E . 8 2 N D S T.
11
YORKVILLE
Comic Strip Live
A V E N U E
E . 8 1 S T S T.
P A R K
12
AVENUE
E . 8 0 T H S T.
D NO . 2
E . 7 9 T H S T.
Orwasher’s 13
Vera Wang E . 7 8 T H S T.
Bakery
M A D I S O N
Café Carlyle
LEXINGTON
E . 7 6 T H S T.
ST
Whitney
DRIVE
Museum E . 7 5 T H S T.
DRIVE
E . 7 4 T H S T.
15
E . 7 3 R D S T.
ROOSEVELT
St. James 16
Church E . 7 2 N D S T.
E . 7 1 S T S T. Asia Society
A V E N U E
AV E N U E
E . 7 0 T H S T.
A V E N U E
D.
Frick
A V E N U E
AV E N U E
Collection
FR ANK LI N
E . 6 9 T H S T.
1
Central Park
NO.
E . 6 8 T H S T. M
S E C O N D
17
F I F T H
Seventh
F I R S T
East
T H I R D
Regiment
Y O R K
Armory E . 6 6 T H S T.
River
18
Temple
Emanu-El E . 6 4 T H S T.
TH
EAS
M E . 6 3 R D S T. QUEENSBORO
BRIDGE
Shanghai Tang Tender Buttons
T
S T.
Mount Vernon
DR
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164
Whatever you do choose to by Frank Lloyd Wright, the
see, be sure if you come 1959 Guggenheim Museum is
between May through October better known for the building in
to ascend to the Cantor Roof which it’s housed than its
Garden (see p.170).The leafy collection. Its centripetal spiral
The Upper East Side PLACES
Cooper-Hewitt National
Design Museum
2 E 91st St at 5th Ave; Tues–Thurs
10am–5pm, Fri 10am–9pm, Sat
10am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm $8,
students and seniors $5 t212/849-
THE GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM 8400, wwww.ndm.si.edu. When he
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COOPER-HEWITT MUSEUM
165
Museum of the City of New
York
1220 5th Ave at E 103rd St; Wed–Sun
10am–5pm, groups only Tues;
suggested donation $7, students $4
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166
happening in contemporary that included Louis Comfort
American art.The fifth floor Tiffany and Stanford White.
takes you from Edward Hopper
to the mid-century, while the The Asia Society Museum
second floor brings you from 725 Park Ave at E 70th St Tues–Sun
The Upper East Side PLACES
Jackson Pollock up through the 11am–6pm, Fri until 8pm $7, students
present day.The collection is and seniors $5, free Fri 6–9pm
particularly strong on Marsden t212/517-ASIA, wwww
Hartley, Georgia O’Keeffe, and .asiasocietymuseum.com. A
such Abstract Expressionists as prominent educational resource
Pollock,Willem de Kooning, on Asia founded by John D.
and Mark Rothko. Rockefeller 3rd, the Asia Society
offers an exhibition space
Park Avenue dedicated to both traditional
Residential Park Avenue is and contemporary art from all
stolidly comfortable and often over Asia. In addition to the
elegant, sweeping down the spine usually worthwhile temporary
of upper Manhattan. One of the exhibits, intriguing
best features of this boulevard is performances, political
the awe-inspiring view south, as roundtables, lectures, films, and
Park Avenue coasts down to the free events are frequently held.
New York Central and Met Life
buildings. In the low 90s, the Mount Vernon Hotel Museum
large black shapes of the Louise & Garden
Nevelson sculptures stand out on 421 E 61st St; Tues–Sun 11am–4pm,
the traffic islands. June–July open Tues 11am–9pm;
closed in August; $5, students and
Seventh Regiment Armory seniors $5, under 12 free; t212/838-
643 Park Ave between E 66th and 6878, wwww.mountvernonhotel
67th sts; t212/744-8180.The museum.org. This historical
Seventh Regiment Armory was interpretation of the Mount
built in the 1870s to serve the Vernon Hotel (1826–33) is
militia, but is now best known housed in an eighteenth-century
for its fine art fairs and the building that managed to survive
prestigious Winter Antiques by the skin of its teeth.The
Show. Inside, the armory furnishings, knickknacks, and the
features a grand double stairway serene little park out back are
and spidery wrought-iron more engaging than the house
chandeliers, along with two itself, unless you’re lucky enough
surviving interiors – the to be guided around by a
Veterans’ Room and the chattily urbane Colonial Dame –
Library, executed by the firm a handful are guides here.
PARK AVENUE
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167
Bloomingdale’s
1000 3rd Ave at E 59th St t212/705-
2000. One of Manhattan’s most
famous department stores,
“Bloomies” is packed with
Contents Places
168
Cafés
Café Sabarsky in the Neue
Gallery
The Upper East Side PLACES
Restaurants E.A.T.
1064 Madison Ave between E 80th and
81st sts t212/772-0022. Expensive
Aureole and crowded but the food’s
34 E 61st St between Madison and excellent (celebrated restaurateur
Park aves t212/319-1660. Magical and gourmet grocer Eli Zabar is
French-accented American food the owner).Try the soups and
in a gorgeous old brownstone breads, and the ficelles and
setting.The prix-fixe options Parmesan toast; the mozzarella,
should bring the cost down to basil, and tomato sandwiches are
$70 per head, but it’s also worth fresh and heavenly.
stopping by just for the show-
stopping desserts. Ecco-la
1660 3rd Ave between E 92nd and
Barking Dog Luncheonette 93rd sts t212/860-5609. Unique
1678 3rd Ave at E 94th St t212/831- pasta combinations at very
1800; also 1453 York Ave at E 77th St moderate prices make this one
t212/861-3600. This diner-like of the Upper East Side’s most
place offers outstanding, cheap popular Italians. It’s a real find, if
American food (like mashed you don’t mind waiting.
potatoes and gravy). Kids will
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169
El Pollo L’Absinthe
1746 1st Ave between E 90th and 91st 227 E 67th St between 2nd and 3rd
sts t212/996-7810. For a quick aves t212/794-4950. Fine French
bite that’s both tasty and cheap food served in a yellow-hued
try the Peruvian-style rotisserie setting with etched glass. Its
Contents Places
170
to live chamber
music (Fri and
Sat 5–8.30pm).
Subway Inn
The Upper East Side PLACES
143 E 60th St at
Lexington Ave
t212/223-8929.
A neighborhood
anomaly, this
PIG HEAVEN downscale dive
bar is great for a late-afternoon
Bars beer – and the perfect retreat
after a visit to Bloomingdale’s
American Trash just across the street.
1471 1st Ave between E 76th and 77th
sts t212/988-9008. Self-styled
“professional drinking Clubs and music
establishment” has a friendly
barstaff, a pool table, a sing-a- venues
long jukebox, and a happy hour
dedicated to getting you there.
Café Carlyle
The Cocktail Room The Carlyle Hotel, 35 E 76th St at
334 E 73rd St between 1st and 2nd Madison Ave t212/570-7175. This
aves t212/988-6100. Fancy bar, stalwart venue is home to both
with couches, dim lighting, and Bobby Short and Woody Allen,
a modish 1960s theme. Popular who plays his clarinet with his
with singles and groups who go jazz band here on Monday
to lounge on the couches in the nights ($75 cover). Other shows
back, The Cocktail Room throbs run $50, and all shows are free if
on weekends. you book a table for dinner. Sets
are at 8.45pm and 10.45pm
Hi-Life nightly.
1340 1st Ave at E 77nd St t212/249-
3600. A cozy bar/restaurant that Chicago City Limits
serves an odd combination of 1105 1st Ave at E 61st St t212/888-
classic American food and 5233. New York’s oldest
cocktails and sushi. Good prices improvisation theater plays one
and excellent service. comedy show nightly. Closed
Tues. Admission is $20, $8 on
Metropolitan Museum of Art Sun.
1000 5th Ave at E 82nd St t212/535-
7710. It’s hard to imagine a more Comic Strip Live
romantic spot to sip a glass of 1568 2nd Ave between E 81st and
wine, whether on the Cantor 82nd sts t212/861-9386.The
Roof Garden (open only in famed showcase draws stand-up
warm weather), enjoying one of comics going for the big time.
the best views in the city, or on Three shows Fri & Sat. Cover
the Great Hall Balcony listening $12–17, $12-drink minimum.
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171
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172 W. 1
MORNINGSIDE AVE.
MANHATTAN AVENUE
Riverside Church
E I G H T H AV E N U E
W.
RESTAURANTS
CLAREMONT
B R O A D WAY
W.
ST.
Boat Basin Café 14
NIC
Café con Leche 12 1
HO
22
LAS
Café des Artistes Columbia
21
AV
Café Luxembourg University
EN
Café Mozart 20
UE
W. 116TH ST.
The Upper West Side PLACES
Calle Ocho 11 M W
M
H E N R Y H U DS O N PAR K WAY
Dead Poet 10
Dock’s Oyster Bar 6 W. 114TH ST. W. 114TH ST.
Dublin House Tap Room 13 2
W. 113TH ST. W. 113TH ST.
Edgar’s Café 7 3
Fine & Schapiro 18 MORNINGSIDE Cathedral of
Gennaro 5 St. John the Divine
HEIGHTS 4
Good Enough to Eat 9 M CATHEDRAL PARKWAY M CENTRA
Hunan Park 19 Strauss W. 109TH ST.
Hungarian Pastry Shop 4 Park
M A N H AT TA N AV E N U E
AM S TER D AM AV E NUE
15
Riverside Park W. 108TH ST.
La Caridad
Ouest 8 W. 107TH ST.
PARK WEST
Picholine 23 Smoke W. 106TH ST.
Shark Bar 17
1 W. 105TH ST.
DRIVE
COLUMBUS AVENUE
2 M M
West End Café
J E R S E Y
W. 102ND ST.
CENTRAL
BROADWAY
W. 101ST ST.
VE
ACCOMMODATION W. 100TH ST.
I
Ce
W E ST DR
Amsterdam Inn E W. 99TH ST.
Hostelling International
WEST END AVENUE
W. 98TH ST.
– New York A
W. 97TH ST.
Lucerne C
Milburn D Pomander M W . 9 6 T H S T. M
Riverside Tower B Walk W. 95TH S T.
Symphony
Space W. 94TH ST.
W. 93RD ST. IVE
W. 92ND ST.
N E W
Murder
R
5
TD
6
W. 90TH ST. Res
H u d s o n W. 89TH ST.
R i v e r W. 88TH ST.
W. 87TH ST.
Barney Greengrass
M W. 86TH ST. M TRA N S
Riverside W. 85TH ST. Children’s Museum
Park W. 84TH ST. 7 of Manhattan
8
W. 83RD ST. 9 American Museum of
▲ W. 82ND ST. Natural History and
Mount 10 Hayden Planetarium
Tom W. 81ST ST. Maxilla & 11
VE
Zabar's 12 Mandible M
B
T DRI
H&H Bagels 13 C
CENTRAL PARK WEST
W. 70TH ST.
Skate 20
H E N R Y H U D S O N PA R K WAY
FREEDOM PLA
21 W. 69TH ST.
WEST END AVENUE
N W. 67TH ST.
22
CE
M
T
W. 65TH ST.
23
BRO
W. 64TH ST.
AD
WA
Lincoln
Y
Center
0 500 yds
W. 60TH ST. COLUMBUS
W. 59TH ST. M CIRCLE CENTRAL
W 58TH ST
Contents Places
173
that the ex-Beatle was
shot by a man who
professed to be one of
his greatest admirers.
Contents Places
174 CATHEDRAL OF ST JOHN THE DIVINE
Contents Places
175
Columbia University
The Cathedral of St John the Between Broadway and Morningside
Divine Drive from 114th to 120th sts. The
Amsterdam Ave at W 112th St, epicenter of Morningside
t212/316-7540. The largest Heights, Columbia University’s
church in the United States, the campus fills 36 acres. Established
Cathedral of St John the Divine in 1754, it is the oldest and most
rises up with a solid kind of revered university in the city and
majesty. A curious mix of one of the most prestigious
Romanesque and Gothic styles, academic institutions in the
the church was begun in 1892, country. After it moved from
though building stopped with midtown in 1897, McKim,
the outbreak of war in 1939 and Mead, and White led the way in
only sporadically resumed in the designing its new Italian
early 1990s; today, it’s still barely Renaissance-style campus, with
two-thirds finished. On the domed and colonnaded Low
completion (unlikely before Memorial Library at center stage.
2050), it will be the largest Tours (T212/854-4900) of the
cathedral in the world, its floor campus leave regularly Monday
space – 600ft long, and 320ft to Friday during the school year
wide at the transepts – big from the information office on
enough to swallow Notre Dame the corner of 116th Street and
and Chartres whole. Broadway.
Inside, note the intricately
carved wood Altar for Peace, the
Poets Corner (with the names of
Shops
American poets carved into its
stone block floor), and an altar Acker, Merrall & Condit
honoring AIDS victims.The 160 W 72nd St between Broadway and
amazing stained-glass windows Columbus Ave t212/787-1700. The
include scenes from American oldest wine store in America,
history among Biblical ones. founded in 1820, it boasts a very
Public guided tours are given wide selection from the US,
Tuesday through Saturday at especially California.
11am and Sunday at 1pm (one
one-hour tour per day); $5, Barney Greengrass
student and seniors $4 541 Amsterdam Ave between W 86th
T212/932-7347 for information. and 87th sts t212/724-4707.
Contents Places
176
Maxilla & Mandible
451 Columbus Ave between W 81st and
82nd sts t212/724-6173. Animal
and human bones for collectors,
scientists, or the curious.Worth a
The Upper West Side PLACES
Murder Ink
2486 Broadway between W 92nd and
93rd sts t212/362-8905. The first
bookstore to specialize in
mystery and detective fiction in
the city, and the purportedly
oldest mystery bookstore in the
world. It claims to stock every
murder, mystery, or suspense
COLUMBUS CIRCLE
title in print – and plenty out.
Around since time began, this
stellar West Side deli (and Zabar’s
restaurant), the self-styled 2245 Broadway at W 80th St
“Sturgeon King,” is celebrated t212/787-2000. A veritable
for its smoked salmon section. Upper West Side institution, this
The cheese blintzes are tasty, too. beloved family store offers a
quintessential taste of New York:
Blades, Board & Skate bagels, lox, all manner of
120 W 72nd St between Broadway and schmears, not to mention a
Columbus Ave t212/787-3911. For dizzying selection of gourmet
trips to nearby Central or goods at reasonable prices.
Riverside parks, rent or buy
your rollerblades, snowboards,
and the like here.
Cafés
Citarella Café Mozart
2135 Broadway at W 75th St 154 W 70th St between Central Park W
t212/874-0383. Famous for its and Columbus Ave T212/595-9797.
artistic window displays, the This faded old Viennese
largest and most varied fish and coffeehouse and Upper West
seafood store in the city, now Side institution serves rich tortes
offers gourmet baked goods, and apple strudel, among dozens
cheese, coffee, meat, and prepared of other cavity-inducing items.
food. It has a wonderful bar
serving prepared oysters, clams, Edgar’s Café
and the like to take away. 255 W 84th St between West End Ave
and Broadway T212/496-6126. A
H&H Bagels pleasant coffeehouse with good
2239 Broadway at W 80th St t1- (though expensive) desserts and
800/NY-BAGEL. Some of the best light snacks, great hot cider in the
bagels in New York are sold at winter, and well-brewed coffees
H & H, where they are said to and teas all the time. Named for
bake over 50,000 a day and ship Edgar Allen Poe, who at one time
them worldwide. lived a block or so farther east.
Contents Places
177
Hungarian Pastry Shop yet moderately priced,
1030 Amsterdam Ave between W contemporary French food.
110th and 111th sts T212/866-4230.
This simple coffeehouse is a Calle Ocho
favorite with Columbia 446 Columbus Ave between W 81st
Contents Places
178
Picholine
35 W 64th St between
Broadway and Central
Park West t212/724-
8585. This pricey
The Upper West Side PLACES
French fave is
popular with the
Lincoln Center
audiences and
those with a
penchant for well-
executed Gallic
fare, such as
LA CARIDAD
hoseradish-crusted
toast, meatloaf, and excellent salmon and white John Dory
weekend brunch specials. fish in chanerelle sauce. Its
cheese plate is to die for.
Hunan Park Jackets required.
235 Columbus Ave between W 70th
and 71st sts t212/724-4411. A Terrace in the Sky
good, inexpensive option a few 400 W 119th St between Amsterdam
blocks from Lincoln Center, Ave and Morningside Drive t212/666-
Hunan Park serves some of the 9490. Weather permitting, have
best Chinese food on the Upper cocktails on the terrace before
West Side in a large, crowded enjoying harp music, marvelous
room, with typically quick Mediterranean fare, and the
service and moderate prices.Try great views of Morningside
the spicy noodles in sesame Heights from this romantic yet
sauce and the dumplings. pricey uptown spot.
Contents Places
179
Dead Poet
450 Amsterdam Ave between W 81st
Clubs and music
and 82nd sts t212/595-5670. You’ll venues
be waxing poetical and then
dropping down dead if you stay Beacon Theatre
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180
Contents Places
181
The Apollo Theater
253 W 125th St; t212/531-5300 for
general information and tours;
wwww.apollotheater.com. From the
1930s to the 1970s, the Apollo
Contents Places
182
The Cloisters & Washington Heights
W.
AY
W. 146TH ST.
E.
2
DW
AV
E.
04 1
AV
TH
EA
OA
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IVERS M YS
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W. 143RD ST.
CloistersAYER S EET
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M A R G A RE T
RIV ER S ID E KWA Y
GL
CHOLA
TR
NA
W. 142ND ST.
DSO N PAR
AR EE
Hudson River
DE T
TENTH
M
Harlem and above PLACES
SIC N DY
K ST CK W. 141ST ST.
ELW LES S .
F O R T G E O R G E H IL L
MA
CONVENT AVE.
Strivers’ Row
COR
T.
DRI VE
S
OO
UE
.
VE
DS ST W. 140TH ST.
BIN
.
EA
D E AVE N
T. 2
GL M
DR
NA
A V E N U E
W. 139TH ST.
.
Fort
AVEN
H A MILTO N
Tryon Park
SI
L
HIL H EIG H TS
UE
W. 137TH ST. Nicholas
W. 136TH ST. Park
A M S T E R D A M
W. 135TH ST. M
B R O A D W A Y W. 134TH ST.
W. 133RD ST.
W 129TH S T.
M
Apollo
Theater
Hudson River
LA SALLE ST. M
C L A R E M O N T AV E N U E
RIVERSIDE AVENUE
W. 123RD ST.
MORNINGSIDE AVENUE
Riverside
M A N H AT TA N AV E N U E
ST
IC
AV ENUE
Columbia
HO
University
LA
D O U G L A S S B LV D
S
MORNINGSIDE DRIVE
Morningside Park
AV
EN
AMS TER DAM
UE
HENRY HU
M
N W. 116TH ST.
M W. 116TH ST.
DSON
FREDERICK
D E AV ENUE
MO RN IN G SID E
PA R K WAY
W. 114TH ST.
H EIG H TS
RIV E R S I
W. 113TH ST.
Cathedral
W. 112TH ST. of St. John W. 112TH ST.
M C AT H E D R A L PA R K WAY M CENTRAL
W. 109TH ST.
0 400 yds W. 108TH ST.
W. 107TH ST.
NUE
Ri erside
Contents Places
183
W. 146TH ST.
EATING AND DRINKING
HA
RL
W. 145TH ST. M Amy Ruth’s 6 Londel’s 2
EM
W. 144TH ST. Bayou 5 Oscar’s BBQ 7
Copeland’s 1 Sylvia’s Restaurant 4
RI
W. 143RD ST. Lenox Lounge 3
VE
R
W. 142ND ST.
DR
IV
E
Abyssinian MADISON
Baptist Church AVENUE BRIDGE
3
W. 138TH ST.
Schomburg
Center
W. 135TH ST.
Ha T H E B R O N X
rle
B L V D
HA
M m
RL
Riv
A V E N U E
EM
er
MADISON AVENUE
W. 132ND ST.
A V E N U E
E. 132ND ST.
W. 131ST ST. E. 131ST ST.
R
IV
E
H A R L E M E. 130TH ST. R
D WALLIS AVENUE
R
L E N O X
E
W. 128TH ST. E. 128TH ST.
4
W. 127TH ST. E. 127TH ST.
W. 126TH ST. E. 126TH ST.
5
M M E. 125TH ST.
E. 124TH ST.
Studio
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
in Harlem Morris
ADAM CLAYTON POWELL JNR BLVD
E. 122ND ST.
Park
AV ENUE
MALCOLM X BLVD
F I R S T
V. M A R C O N T O N I O A V E N U E
P A R K
FIFTH AVENUE
E. 115TH ST.
La Marqueta
Thomas
Jefferson
E. 112TH ST. Park East
7 River
EL BARRIO E. 111TH ST.
E. 109TH ST.
Central
Park E. 108TH ST.
E. 107TH ST.
Contents Places
184
George
Washington’s
headquarters,
before it fell
to the British.
Harlem and above PLACES
Later, wine
merchant
Stephen Jumel
bought the
mansion and
refurbished it
for his wife
THE CLOISTERS
Eliza, formerly
a prostitute and his mistress. On
this dignified development the top floor, you’ll find a
within the burgeoning black magnificently fictionalized
community came to be the account of her “scandalous” life.
most desirable place for
ambitious professionals to reside The Cloisters Museum
at the turn of the nineteenth Fort Tryon Park Tues–Sun
century – hence its name. 9.30am–5.15pm, closes 4.45pm
Nov–Feb suggested donation $12,
Museo del Barrio students $7 t212/923-3700,
1230 5th Ave at E 104th St Wed–Sun wwww.metmuseum.org. Take
11am–5pm suggested donation $6, subway #A to 190th St–Ft
students $4 t212/831-7272, Washington Avenue to find this
wwww.elmuseo.org. Literally reconstructed monastic
translated as “the neighborhood complex, which houses the pick
museum,” Museo del Barrio was of the Metropolitan Museum’s
founded in 1969. Although the medieval collection. Most prized
emphasis remains largely Puerto among its collection are the
Rican, the museum embraces Unicorn Tapestries, seven
the whole of Latin America and elaborate panels thought to have
nearby island cultures. Relics been created in the late
from their civilization include thirteenth century. in France or
intricately carved vomiting Belgium. Much mystery
sticks (used to purify the body surrounds the work, however,
with the hallucinogen cohoba and no one knows for sure
before sacred rites) and three- where they came from or who
pointed fertility stones. During commissioned them. Among the
the summer months the Cloister’s larger artifacts are a
museum hosts a popular concert monumental Romanesque hall
series. made up of French remnants
and a frescoed Spanish
The Morris–Jumel Mansion Fuentiduena chapel, both
65 Jumel Terrace at W 160th St thirteenth century. At the center
between Amsterdam and Edgecombe of the museum is the Cuxa
aves, Wed–Sun 10am–4pm; $3, Cloister from a twelfth-century
students $2 t212/923-8008. This Benedictine monastery in the
1765 mansion, the oldest house French Pyrenees; its capitals are
in Manhattan, features proud brilliant works of art, carved
Georgian outlines and a Federal with weird, self-devouring
portico and served briefly as grotesque creatures.
Contents Places
185
Restaurants Oscar’s BBQ
1325 5th Ave, at 111th St T212/996-
1212. This convivial BBQ joint
Amy Ruth’s serves some of the best pulled
113 W 116th St between Lenox and BBQ pork sandwiches ($7) in
Contents Places
186
Contents Places
187
N
87 95
Van
Cortland
Park New York Long Island
BRONX
ive
278
Yankee
nR
Stadium 678
HARLEM
dso
9A American Museum
Hu
CITY
MoMAQNS JACKSON 495
HATT
East River
HEIGHTS
278
QUEENS
MAN
495
WILLIAMSBURG 25
FOREST HILLS JAMAICA
KEW
New York BROOKLYN GARDENS
Transit Museum HEIGHTS
Brooklyn Museum 678
Prospect of Art
Park BROOKLYN 27
PARK John F. Kennedy
27 International
278 SLOPE Airport
Brooklyn
FLATBUSH
ST. GEORGE BAY Botanic
Garden
RIDGE LONG
JAMAICA BAY ISLAND
278 WILDLIFE REFUGE
STATEN
ISLAND
The Rockaways
CONEY Brighton
ISLAND Beach Jacob Riis Park
0 5 miles
A T L A N T I C O C E A N
Contents Places
188
Cézanne,Toulouse-Lautrec, 1860s, completing it just as the
Monet, among others – are also finishing touches were being
displayed, and although nothing put to Grand Army Plaza
here approaches their finest outside.The park’s 526 acres
work, the stellar Rodin Gallery include a sixty-acre lake on the
The Outer Boroughs PLACES
Contents Places
189
with cafés, flower shops, wine of Russian Jewish émigrés, some
stores, bakeries, and book nooks. 25,000, who arrived in the 1970s
following a relaxation of
Coney Island restrictions on Soviet citizens
Generations of working-class entering the United States.The
Contents Places
The Outer Boroughs PLACES 190
GREEK ASTORIA
Contents Places
191
MoMAQNS P.S. 1 Contemporary Art
45-20 33rd St at Queens Blvd; Mon, Center
Thurs, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm, Fri 22-25 Jackson Ave at 46th St;
10am–7.45pm; $12, seniors and Thurs–Mon noon–6pm $5, students
students $8.50, pay-what-you-wish Fri $2, seniors free t718/784-2084,
Contents Places
The Outer Boroughs PLACES 192
YANKEE STADIUM
Contents Places
193
students $2, children $1, free Wed & Sat
10am–noon t718/817-8700,
Shops
wwww.nybg.org. Incorporated in
1891, and in its southern reaches Aaron’s
as wild as anything you’re likely 627 5th Ave between 17th and 18th
Contents Places
194
Bistro St Mark’s
76 St Mark’s Ave between Flatbush
and 6th aves, Park Slope, Brooklyn
t718/857-8600. This unassuming
place churns out a superb,
The Outer Boroughs PLACES
Contents Places
195
Elias Corner imagine, from chopped liver
24-02 31st St at 24th Ave, Astoria, sandwiches to ribs and meatloaf.
Queens t718/932-1510. Pay close Whatever you do, save room for
attention to the seafood on the cheesecake, which many
display as you enter, for this consider to be NYC’s finest.
Jackson Diner
37-47 74th St between 37th and
Roosevelt aves, Jackson Heights,
Queens t718/672-1232. Come
here hungry and stuff yourself
silly with amazingly light and
reasonably priced Indian fare.
The samosas and mango lassis
are not to be missed. #7, #E,
#F, #R, #V, or #G to
Roosevelt Ave.
Junior’s
386 Flatbush Ave at DeKalb Ave,
downtown Brooklyn t718/852-5257.
Open 24 hours in a sea of lights
that makes it worthy of Vegas,
Junior’s offers everything you can JUNIOR’S
Contents Places
196
Moroccan Star Odessa
148 Atlantic Ave between Trenton and 11-13 Brighton Beach Ave between
Henry sts, Brooklyn Heights 13th and 14th sts, Brighton Beach,
t718/643-0800. Perhaps New Brooklyn t718/332-3223. Excellent
York’s best Moroccan restaurant, and varied Russian menu at
The Outer Boroughs PLACES
Primorski
282 Brighton Beach Ave between 2nd
and 3rd sts, Brighton Beach, Brooklyn
t718/891-3111. Perhaps the best
of Brighton Beach’s Russian
hangouts, with a huge menu of
authentic Russian dishes,
including blintzes and stuffed
cabbage, at absurdly cheap
prices. Live music in the
evening. #B or #Q train to
Brighton Beach.
River Café
1 Water St between Furman and Old
Fulton sts on the East River, Brooklyn
Heights t718/522-5200. This elite
PRIMORSKI eating establishment, situated at
Contents Places
197
the base of the Brooklyn Bridge, polka groups. #N or #W to
provides spectacular views of Astoria Blvd.
Manhattan.While dishes like the
potato-crusted oysters are Boogaloo Bar
excellent, the $70 prix fixe 168 Marcy Ave between S 5th St and
Galapagos
Bohemian Hall and Beer 70 N 6th St between Wythe and Kent
Garden aves, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
29-19 24th Ave between 29th and t718/782-5188. Gorgeous design
30th sts, Astoria, Queens t718/721- – this converted factory features
4226. This old Czech bar is the placid pools of water and elegant
real deal, catering to old-timers candelabras – as well as excellent
and serving a good selection of avant-garde movies on Sunday
pilsners as well as hard-to-find nights. Live music, literary
brews. In back, there’s a very readings, or some oddball event
large beer garden, complete most other nights of the week.
with picnic tables, trees, burgers Check the website for schedule.
and sausages, and a bandshell for #L train to Bedford Ave.
Contents Places
198
The Gate table, dim red lighting, and a
321 5th Ave at 3rd St Park Slope, jukebox that loves your ears. #L
Brooklyn, t718/768-4329. An train to Bedford Ave.
extensive array of beers and
patio seating lure Park Slopers Tupelo
The Outer Boroughs PLACES
Contents Places
Accommodation
Contents Accommodation
Accommodation
Contents Accommodation
201
Hotels
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
Accommodation prices in New just over a hundred rooms, it has the feel of
York City are well above the a bed and breakfast. $119 and up.
norm for the US as a whole. Larchmont 27 W 11th St between 5th
Most hotels charge more than and 6th aves t212/989-9333,
$100 a night for a double room wwww.larchmont-hotel.com. This budget
(although bargains as low as $75 hotel, on a tree-lined street in Greenwich
a night do exist).While the Village, has small but nice, clean rooms.
majority of New York’s hotels Terrific location; rooms $125 with shared
can be found in midtown baths; slightly more expensive on weekends.
Manhattan, you may well want Mercer 147 Mercer St at Prince St
to travel downtown for superior t212/966-6060, wwww.mercer
food and nightlife. Booking hotel.com. Housed in a landmark
ahead is strongly advised, and at Romanesque Revival building, this hot SoHo
certain times of the year – hotel has been the choice of celebs such as
Christmas and early summer Leonardo DiCaprio since it opened in 1998.
particularly – everything is likely Some loft-like guest rooms also have mas-
to be full. sive baths with 90 square feet for splashing
Rates in this chapter refer to around, and the Mercer Kitchen garners rave
the approximate cost of a dou- reviews. $395 and up.
ble room throughout most of Off SoHo Suites 11 Rivington St between
the year; be aware that prices are Chrystie St and Bowery t1-800/OFF-
often reduced on weekends, so SOHO or 212/979-9808, wwww.offsoho
it’s always worth asking. Taxes .com. These small, apartment-style suites
are added to your hotel bill, and are well situated for Little Italy, East Village,
hotels will nearly always quote SoHo, and Chinatown. Very reasonable for
you the price of a room before two or four, the suites include fully equipped
tax, which will add 13.25 per- kitchen, TV, and use of laundry and fitness
cent to your bill (state tax 8.25 room. Rooms run from $119.
percent, city tax 5 percent), and Ritz-Carlton 2 West St, Battery Park
there is also a $2 per night T212/344-0800, Wwww.ritzcarlton.com.
“occupancy tax.” The views of New York Harbor and the Statue
of Liberty don’t get much better than from
this newly minted high-rise hotel. It features
Below 14th Street a hopping bar, 425-square-foot rooms with
60 Thompson 60 Thompson St between soothing muted tones – all with dazzling vis-
Spring and Broome sts t212/431-0400, tas and “bath butlers” to draw baths and
wwww.60thompson.com. Designed by warm towels. Rates begin at $300.
Thomas O’Brien’s Aero Studio, this boutique SoHo Grand 310 W Broadway at Grand
property oozes sophistication and tempts St t212/965-3000, wwww.sohogrand
guests with countless amenities, including .com. In a great location at the edge of
gourmet minibars, DVD players, and a sum- vibrant SoHo, the Grand draws guests of the
mertime rooftop lounge overlooking the SoHo model/media-star/actor variety. Its appeal
rooftops. All this fabulousness comes at a includes small but stylish rooms, a good bar,
price, though: $309 and up. restaurant, and fitness center. $389 and up.
Cosmopolitan 95 W Broadway at TriBeCa Grand Hotel 2 Ave of the
Chambers St t1-888/895-9400 or Americas, between White and Walker sts
212/566-1900, wwww.cosmohotel.com. T1-877/519-6600 or 212/519-6600,
Great TriBeCa location, with smart, well- Wwww.tribecagrand.com. Beckoning with
maintained rooms at a steal of a price. With a warm orange glow, the Church Lounge is
Contents Accommodation
202
T
1
HE NR Y HUDS ON PA R KW AY
WEST 62ND STREET
ACCOMMODATION
W E S T 6 0 T H S T R E E T
2 COLUMBUS
CENTRAL PARK SOUTH
WEST 59TH STREET CIRCLE
3
W E S T 5 8 T H S T R E E T 5 6
W E S T 5 7 T H S T R E E T 8 9
W E S T 5 6 T H S T R E E T
10
W E S T 5 5 T H S T R E E T
12
A V E N U E
W E S T 5 4 T H S T R E E T
T E N T H
N I N T H
W. 5 3 R D S T. 13
E L E V E N T H
B R O A D W A Y
A V E N U E
W. 52ND ST.
Hotels
W. 5 1 S T S T.
O F
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
W. 5 0 T H S T.
T H E
T W E L F T H
W. 49TH S T.
18
A V E N U E
A M E R I C A S
W E S T 4 8 T H S T R E E T 19 20
WES T 4 7TH S TR EET 23
WEST 46TH STREET 24
W E S T 4 5 T H S T R E E T 26
WES T 44TH S TR EET 28
WEST 43RD STREET TIMES
31 SQUARE
W E S T 4 2 N D S T R E E T
WES T 41S T S TR E ET
E I G H T H
T E N T H
39
W. 3 0 T H S T.
A V E N U E
W. 2 9 T H S T.
AV E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
W. 2 8 T H S T.
W. 2 7 T H S T.
50
WEST 19TH STREET
WEST 18TH STREET
A M E R I C A S
N
S T
ST. NW
WEST 12TH STREET
RT ST
. IC
EV OO . E H
NS ST JAN T. AV
GA IO HS
WA
EN
R AT 1 2T UE
HO W.
S H IN
HUD
GR
EEN
SON
GTO
GREENWICH
W IC
NS
STR
0 500 yds
S T. VILLAGE
HS
T.
EET
NE
TRE
HU 54
BET
ET
Contents Accommodation
203
UE
UE
E
E
S E C O N D AV E .
THIRD AVE.
FIR S T AV E .
YO RK AV E.
EAST 61ST STREET
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
EAST 60TH STREET
F I R S T
LEXINGTON AVENUE
Library 32
SEC OND
T H I R D
P A R K
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
44 Morgans 34
AVEN UE
51 Thirty One 41
A Y
E. 11TH STREET
TH
AV
Westside YMCA 1
EN
Contents Accommodation
204
one of the more striking hotel public spaces wwww.chelseasavoynyc.com. A few
and a great place to have a drink. The rooms doors from the Chelsea Hotel, the Savoy has
ACCOMMODATION
are stylish and yet on the understated side, none of its neighbor’s funky charm, but its
though each bathroom boasts a phone and rooms, though small, are clean and nicely
built-in TV. The black-clad staff is extra decorated, and the staff is helpful. Try to
attentive. Off-season weekends can be as avoid rooms facing the main drags outside.
low as $200; for most weekdays, count on Rooms from $99.
rates above $350. Gramercy Park 2 Lexington Ave at E 21st
Washington Square 103 Waverly Place St t212/475-4320, wwww.grammercy
at Washington Square Park t212/777- parkhotel.com. With a lovely location, this
9515, wwww.washingtonsquarehotel hotel is pleasant enough, though be sure to
.com. The ideal location in the heart of ask for one of the new rooms; the few that
Hotels
Greenwich Village is a stone’s throw from the haven’t been renovated are quite tatty.
area’s nightlife. However, don’t be deceived Guests also get a key to the adjacent private
by the posh-looking lobby – the rooms are park. Rates start at $185.
surprisingly shabby for the price but service- Murray Hill Inn 143 E 30th St between
able. Continental breakfast is included. Lexington and 3rd aves t1-888/996-
Rooms from $169. 6376 or 212/683-6900, wwww.murray
hillinn.com. It’s easy to see why young trav-
elers and backpackers line the Inn’s narrow
14th to 34th street halls. Although the rooms are smallish, they
Carlton 22 E 29th St at Madison Ave are air-conditioned and all have telephone
t1-800/542-1502 or 212/532-4100, and cable TV; some also have private bath-
wwww.carltonhotelny.com. A fairly well- rooms. Rates begin at $79.
priced, nicely modernized hotel in a Beaux Roger Williams 131 Madison Ave at 31st
Arts building. Two pluses: you’re in the safe St t1-888/448-7788 or 212/448-7000,
residential area of Murray Hill, and you get wwww.rogerwilliamshotel.com. At some
room and valet service, not often associat- point during its $2 million “boutique” renova-
ed with hotels in this price bracket. $139 tion, this hotel made a turn onto Madison
and up. and its prices shot up exponentially. Still, the
The Chelsea Hotel 222 W 23rd St mellow, Scandinavian-Japanese fusion
between 7th and 8th aves t212/243- rooms and fluted zinc pillars in the lobby
3700, wwww.hotelchelsea make it well worth the extra bucks. Rooms
.com. One of New York’s most celebrated start at $199.
landmarks, this aging Neo-Gothic building Seventeen 225 E 17th St between 2nd
boasts a sensational past (see p.122). Avoid and 3rd aves t212/475-2845,
the older rooms, and be sure to ask for a wwww.hotel17ny.com. Having recently
renovated one, with wood floors, log-burning undergone a total renovation, Seventeen’s
fireplaces, and plenty of space for a few rooms now feature AC, cable TV, and
extra friends. Rooms run from $175 and up. phones, though they still have shared baths.
Chelsea Lodge 318 W 20th St between It’s clean, friendly, and nicely situated on a
8th and 9th aves t212/243-4499, pleasant tree-lined street minutes from
wwww.chelsealodge.com. Step through Union Square and the East Village. Ask about
the (unmarked) door of this gem, a converted its excellent weekly rates. Rooms from $90.
boarding house, and you’ll be greeted with Thirty-One 120 E 31st St between
cheery Early American/Sportsman decor. The Lexington and Park aves t212/685-
“lodge” rooms, which offer in-room showers 3060, wwww.hotel31.com. A Murray Hill
and sinks (there’s a shared toilet down the hotel brought to you by the folks who own
hall), are a little small for two, but the few Seventeen. The rooms are clean and the
deluxe rooms are a great value and have new street is quiet and pleasant. Rates start at
full bathrooms. Rates from $105 and up. $60 with shared bath, $85 with private bath.
Chelsea Savoy Hotel 204 W 23rd St at Thirty Thirty 30 E 30th St between Park
7th Ave t212/929-9353, and Madison aves t1-800/804-4480 or
Contents Accommodation
205
212/689-1900, wwww.thirtythirty /640-9300 or 212/869-0100, wwww
-nyc.com. Small, welcoming budget hotel, .bryantparkhotel.com. This hotel just off
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
with a few small but welcome design touch- the park shows off its edgy attitude in its
es, like the framed black- and-white scenes stylish rooms and the funky Cellar Bar down-
of old New York in the rooms. Rooms start at stairs, filled with media people, while its sev-
$109. enty-seat screening room shows occasional
W Union Square 201 Park Ave S at Union openings. Rooms start at $325.
Square t1-877/W-HOTELS or 212/253- Casablanca 147 W 43rd St between 6th
9119, wwww.whotels.com. Located in the Ave and Broadway t1-888/9-
former Guardian Life Building, this is really CASABLANCA or 212/869-1212,
the only upscale hotel in the area, and wwww.casablancahotel.com. Moorish
boasts Todd English’s Olives restaurant, a hot tiles, ceiling fans, and, of course, Rick’s Café
bar scene, and plush neutral-toned rooms. are all here in this unusual and understated
Rates from $349. theme hotel. While the feeling is 1940s
Morocco, the rooms are all up-to-date; rates
from $189.
Midtown West: flatotel 135 W 52nd St between 6th and
7th aves t1-800/352-8683 or 212/887-
34th–59th streets 9400, wwww.flatotel.com. Maybe the
Algonquin 59 W 44th St between 5th “flat” refers to apartments (these rooms used
and 6th aves t212/840-6800, to be condos, and they’re all gigantic); per-
wwww.algonquinhotel.com. At New haps it has to do with the box-shaped furni-
York’s classic literary hangout (see p.136), ture, but it’s a comfortable alternative in the
you’ll find a resident cat named Matilde, heart of midtown. Rooms from $209 and up.
cabaret performances, and suites with silly Edison 228 W 47th St between
names. The decor remains little changed Broadway and 8th Ave t212/840-5000,
from the days of Dorothy Parker and her fel- wwww.edisonhotelnyc.com. The most
low wits, though the bedrooms have been striking thing about the funky 1000-room
refurbished to good effect and the lobby Edison, a reasonably priced option for mid-
recently received a mini-facelift. Ask about town, is its beautifully restored Art Deco
summer and weekend specials. Rates from lobby. The rooms, though not fancy, have
$299. been recently renovated. They start at $179.
Ameritania Hotel 54 230 W 54th St at Hudson 356 W 58th St between 8th and
Broadway t1-800/922-0330 or 212/247- 9th aves t1-800/444-4786 or 212/554-
5000, wwww.nychotels.com. One of the 6000, wwww.ianschragerhotels
coolest-looking hotels in the city, with well- .com. The latest Schrager addition to NYC,
furnished rooms with marble bathrooms, this overly designed hotel features a space-
cable TV, and CD; and there’s a bar/restau- age cocktail lounge, library, cavernous “cafe-
rant off the high-tech, Neo-Classical lobby. teria,” and minuscule rooms, which are sig-
Rooms from $129 and up. nificantly cheaper during the week. $285
Broadway Inn 264 W 46th St between and up.
Broadway and 8th Ave t1-800/826-6300 Iroquois 49 W 44th St between 5th and
or 212/997-9200, wwww.broad 6th aves t1-800/332-7220 or 212
wayinn.com. This cozy budget hotel in the /840-3080, wwww.iroquoisny.com. A for-
heart of the Theater District stands on a slightly mer haven for rock bands, this reinvented
charmless corner of Eighth Ave. All rooms are stuffy “boutique” hotel has comfortable,
pleasantly decorated and have private bath- tasteful rooms with Italian marble baths and
rooms and cable TV. Continental breakfast is a health center, library, and a five-star
included in the price and all guests get a twen- restaurant. One of the hotel’s noted visitors is
ty percent discount at the adjacent restaurant. immortalized in the lounge named for him:
No elevator; $129 and up. James Dean lived here from 1950 to 1953,
Bryant Park Hotel 40 W 40th St between and some say his room (#803) still retains
5th and 6th aves t1-877 an element of magic. Rooms from $345.
Contents Accommodation
206
Le Parker Meridien 119 W 56th St The Plaza 768 5th Ave, at Central Park S
between 6th and 7th aves t212/245- T1-800/441-1414 or 212/759-3000,
ACCOMMODATION
Contents Accommodation
207
laundry, and an efficient, friendly staff. $139 Wolcott 4 W 31st St between 5th Ave
and up. and Broadway t212/268-2900, wwww
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
The Time 224 W 49th St between .wolcott.com. A relaxing budget hotel,
Broadway and 8th Ave t1-877 with a gilded, ornate Louis XVI-style lobby
/TIME NYC or 212/246-5252, wwww full of mirrors and lion reliefs (even the
.thetimeny.com. Tempus fugit – and every- ceiling is lavish). The rooms, while rather
thing here reminds you to spend it wisely, staid, are more than adequate. Rooms from
from the waist-level clock in the lobby, to the $99.
hallways bedecked with Roman numerals. A Wyndham 42 W 58th St between 5th and
hip hotel with modern styling and smallish 6th aves t1-800/257-1111 or 212/753-
rooms that are tricked out with the latest 3500. This worn-around-the-edges midtown
accoutrements (multiline phones, ergonomic standby can’t be beat for its location, price,
work station, fax). Not terribly expensive for and spacious guestrooms, many of which
what you get; rates start at $159. include kitchenettes. Staff is very friendly,
Warwick 65 W 54th St at 6th Ave t1- too. A great choice for families. Rates start at
800/223-4099 or 212/247-2700, wwww $155.
.warwickhotel.com. Stars of the 1950s
and 1960s – including Cary Grant, Rock
Hudson, the Beatles, Elvis Presley, and JFK – Midtown East: 34th to
stayed here as a matter of course. Although
the hotel has lost its showbiz cachet, it’s a
59th streets
pleasant place, from the elegant lobby to the Alex Hotel 205 E 45th St, between 2nd
Murals on 54 restaurant and Randolph’s and 3rd aves T1-800/695-8284 or
cocktail lounge. The staff is helpful and 212/867-5100. By the same owners as the
friendly. Rooms from $425. flatotel, this spanking-new beige-toned place
Wellington 871 7th Ave at W 55th St t1- is a serene midtown oasis. Rooms are Mod
800/652-1212 or 212/247-3900, with Scandinavian touches. Rooms from
wwww.wellingtonhotel.com. The gleam- $350 and up.
ing, mirror-clad lobby is the result of fresh Beekman Tower 3 Mitchell Place at E
renovations, and similar attention has been 49th St and 1st Ave t1-866/233-4642 or
paid to the rooms. Some have kitchenettes, 212/320-8018, wwww.affinia.com. One
and family rooms offer two bathrooms. Close of the more expensive hotels in the Affinia
to Carnegie Hall and handy for Lincoln chain and also one of the most stylish. Suites
Center, this is very reasonable for this stretch come with fully equipped kitchens. The
of town. Rates start at $149. hotel’s Art Deco Top of the Towers restaurant
Westin New York at Times Square 270 offers superb East Side views. Rooms from
W 43rd St, at 8th Ave T1-800/WESTIN-1, $294.
Wwww.westinnewyork.com. The copper Library 299 Madison Ave at E 41st St
and blue glass building seems a little out of t1-877/793-READ or 212/983-4500,
place (it was designed by Miami architects), wwww.libraryhotel.com. Each floor is
but it’s a welcome addition to the selection devoted to one of the ten major categories
of Times Square hotels. The high-tech high- of the Dewey Decimal System, and each
rise also features rooms with deliciously room’s artwork and books reflect a different
comfortable beds and double-headed show- pursuit within that group. Only those with a
ers. $160 and up. serious sense of purpose could design sixty
Westpark 6 Columbus Circle between 8th unique rooms and handpick more than
and 9th aves t1-866/WESTPARK or 6000 books for the place, and the dedica-
212/445-0200, tion shows in other ways, notably in the
wwww.westparkhotel.com. The best lovely Poet’s Garden terrace. Rooms are
rooms look out over Columbus Circle and the average in size but nicely appointed, with
southwestern corner of Central Park. The staff big bathrooms. The hotel throws a wine and
is somewhat reserved but helpful, and it’s a cheese get-together every weekday. Rates
great deal for the area. Rooms start at $99. from $315.
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208
Morgans 237 Madison Ave between E Uptown: above 59th
37th and E 38th sts t1-800/334-3408 or
Street
ACCOMMODATION
212/686-0300, wwww.ianschrager
hotels.com. One of the most chic flophous- Amsterdam Inn 340 Amsterdam Ave at
es in town, and although the black-white- W 76th St t212/579-7500, wwww
gray decor is starting to look self-consciously .amsterdaminn.com. From the owners of
1980s, stars still frequent the place, able as the much lauded Murray Hill Inn, the rooms
they are to slip in and out unnoticed. And you here are basic (no closets) but clean, they
get a great CD/DVD system and cable TV in have TVs and phones, and there’s a friendly,
your room. Rooms from $175. helpful staff. Rooms from $99.
Pickwick Arms 230 E 51st St between Essex House 160 Central Park S
2nd and 3rd aves t212/355-0300, between 6th and 7th aves t1-
Hotels
Contents Accommodation
209
and rooms – all with small refrigerators and wwww.waleshotel.com. Just steps from
private baths – are ultra-basic, it’s the loca- “Museum Mile,” this Carnegie Hill hotel has
Contents Accommodation
210
prices combined with an ideal downtown excellent pick. Private singles start at $26,
location and amenities such as ATMs, cable private doubles at $50.
ACCOMMODATION
Bed and breakfast can be a good Minimum stay two nights, with some excep-
way of staying right in the center tions. Reserve well in advance.
of Manhattan at an affordable CitySonnet.com t212/614-3034. This
price. But don’t expect to social- small, personalized, artist-run B&B/short-
ize with your temporary land- term apartment agency offers accommoda-
lord/lady – chances are you’ll tions all over the city, but specializes in
have a self-contained room and Greenwich Village. Singles start at $85, dou-
hardly see them – and don’t go bles are $100–155, and unhosted studio
looking for B&Bs on the streets. flats start at $120.
Reservations are normally Colby International 139 Round Hey,
arranged through an agency such Liverpool L28 1RG, England, UK
as those listed below. Rates run t0151/220-5848, wwww.colby
about $80–100 for a double, or international.com. Excellent, guaranteed
$100 and up a night for a studio B&B accommodations arranged from the UK.
apartment. Book well in Book at least a fortnight ahead in high sea-
advance. son for excellent-value apartments. Singles
run $80–$90 (per room); doubles/twins go
for $95–$105.
B&B agencies Urban Ventures 38 W 32nd St, Suite
Affordable New York City 21 E 10th St 1412 t212/594-5650, Ereservations
t212/533-4001, wwww.affordable @gamutnyc.com. Now operated by Gamut
nyc.com. Detailed descriptions are provided Realty, this outfit provides flexibility; you can
for this established network of 120 proper- book up until the last minute for nightly,
ties (B&Bs and apartments) around the city. weekly, or monthly rentals, and there’s a
B&B accommodations from $85 (shared minimum stay of only two nights. Budget
bath) and $100 (private bath), unhosted stu- doubles from $75, “comfort range” rooms
dios $135–160 and one-bedrooms from $149.
$175–225. Cash or travelers’ checks only;
three-night minimum. Very customer-orient-
ed and personable. B&B properties
City Lights Bed & Breakfast Box 1562 Box Tree 250 E 49th St between 2nd and
First Ave, NY 10028 t212/737-7049, 3rd aves t212/758-8320, wwww
wwww.citylightsbandb.com. More than .boxtreeinn.com. Thirteen elegant rooms
400 carefully screened B&Bs (and short- and suites fill two adjoining eighteenth-cen-
term apartment rentals) on its books, with tury townhouses and make one of New
many of the hosts involved in theater and the York’s more eccentric lodgings, with themed
arts. Hosted doubles are $95–120. Unhosted Egyptian-, Chinese-, and Japanese-style
apartments cost $135–300 and up per night rooms. There’s also a sumptuously romantic
depending on size. Hosts are paid directly. restaurant; doubles $200.
Contents Accommodation
211
Inn at Irving Place 56 Irving Place at E offers five-course high teas ($30 per per-
17th St t1-800/685-1447 or 212/533- son).
ACCOMMODATION
4600, wwww.innatirving.com. It costs New York Bed and Breakfast 134 W
$325–495 a night for one of the twelve 119th St at Lenox Ave t212/666-0559.
rooms – each named after a famous archi- This lovely old brownstone just north of
tect, designer, or actor – in this handsome Central Park in Harlem features nice double
pair of 1834 brownstones, which must rank rooms for $65 a night for two people. Double
as one of the most exclusive guesthouses in rooms at an annexed property go for $60
the city. Frequented by celebrities, the Inn with access to a community kitchen.
Contents Accommodation
212
Contents Accommodation
Essentials
Contents Essentials
Essentials
Contents Essentials
215
Arrival
Unless you’re coming from nearby on the as the #E, #J, and #Z subway trains or to
ESSENTIALS
East Coast, the quickest way to get to the Howard Beach #A station. If you take
New York City is by flying. There are also the subway in, to downtown Manhattan, it
plenty of routes into town by bus and should take an hour; to reach Penn Sta-
train, which leave you off in the center of tion station via the LIRR, which departs
Manhattan within easy reach of hotels. every 5–8 min 6am–11pm, count on a
The city is also accessible by car; howev- 35-minute ride ($11.75) departing every
er, as traffic can often be difficult to eight minutes.
Arrival
negotiate, it is not recommended. If you are heading into the city from
Newark, Olympia Airport Express buses
By air take up to forty minutes to get to Man-
hattan, where they stop at Grand Central,
New York City is served by three major Penn Station, Port Authority, and multiple
airports: most international flights use locations in Lower Manhattan (every
John F. Kennedy, or JFK (t 718/244- 20–30min 4am–midnight; $12 one–way,
4444, w www.panynj.gov/aviation $19 roundtrip; t 212/964-6233 or in NJ
/jfkframe), in Queens, though some Vir- t 908/354-3330). A slightly more eco-
gin, British Airways, and Continental nomical way to get to and from Newark
flights land at Newark (t 973/961- Airport is via AirTrain, also operated by
6000, the NY & NJ Port Authority. Prices and
w www.panynj.gov/aviation/ewrframe), in times vary depending on which train
New Jersey, which has easier access to service you use to connect with AirTrain,
Lower Manhattan. Most domestic arrivals but to Penn Station count on a twenty-
touch down at LaGuardia (t 718/533- minute ride costing $11.55. (Every
3400, w www.panynj.gov/aviation 20–30min 6am–midnight; $8.30-
/lgaframe), also in Queens, or at Newark. $11.55 one–way; in NJ
t 973/565-9814, w www.airtrain-
Getting into town newark.com).
From JFK, New York Airport Service From LaGuardia, New York Airport Ser-
buses run to the Port Authority Bus Ter- vice buses take 45 minutes to get to
minal, Grand Central Station, Penn Grand Central and Port Authority (every
Station, and major midtown hotels in 15–30min 7am–midnight; $10 one-way,
Manhattan (every 15–20min 6am–mid- $17 roundtrip, students one-way $6;
night; trip time 45min–1hr; $13 one way, t 718/875-8200). Alternatively, for $2,
students $6; t 718/706-9658, you can take the #M60 bus across 125th
w www.nyairportservice.com). Another Street in Manhattan, where you can
option is the bus/subway link, which transfer (for another $2) to multiple
costs just the $2 subway fare: take the downtown-bound subway lines.
free shuttle bus (labeled “Long-term
parking”) to the Howard Beach station on By bus or train
the #A subway line, then the ninety-
minute subway ride to central Manhattan. Greyhound Trailways, Bonanza, and Peter
You can also get to JFK Airport via the Pan buses pull in at the Port Authority
brand new light rail AirTrain (t 212/877- Bus Terminal, 42nd St and Eighth Ave.
JFKT, w www.panynj.gov/airtrain). The Amtrak trains come in to Penn Station,
trains, which cost $5 one way, run every at Seventh Ave and 33rd St. From either
few minutes, 24 hours daily, between JFK Port Authority or Penn Station, multiple
and the Jamaica station, which has subway lines will take you where you
access to Long Island Rail Road as well want to go.
Contents Essentials
216
By car
If arriving by car, you have multiple Expressway) crosses the East River at the
options: Route 495 transects midtown Brooklyn, Manhattan, Williamsburg, and
Manhattan from New Jersey through the Queensboro bridges; I-478 uses the
Arrival • Information ESSENTIALS
Lincoln Tunnel and from the east through Brooklyn-Battery Tunnel. From the north,
the Queens-Midtown Tunnel. From the I-87 (New York State Thruway) and I-95
southwest, I-95 (New Jersey Turnpike) serve Manhattan’s loop roads: Route 9A
and I-78 serve Canal and Spring streets (Henry Hudson Parkway) and East River
near SoHo and TriBeCa via the Holland Drive (FDR Drive). Be prepared for delays
Tunnel. From Brooklyn and other south- at tunnels and bridges; most charge tolls.
east points, I-278 (Brooklyn-Queens
Information
The best place for information is the New
York Convention and Visitors Bureau,
Useful websites
810 Seventh Ave at 53rd St (Mon–Fri CitySearch NY
8.30am–6pm, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm; w www.newyork.citysearch.com. A solid,
t 212/484-1222, w www.nycvisit.com). comprehensive search engine with
It has leaflets on what’s going on in the weekly updated listings and tame
arts, bus and subway maps, and informa- features.
tion on accommodation – though they Daily Candy
can’t actually book anything for you. w www.dailycandy.com. Excellent
There are also free city maps available at resource for the latest in fashion, food,
the tourist cubicle in Grand Central. and cultural trends around the city.
Another helpful tourist office is the Times NYC Transit Authority
Square Visitors Center at 1560 Broad- w www.mta.nyc.ny.us. Official
way, between 46th and 47th sts (daily subway/bus/Metro-North, and LIRR
8am–8pm; t 212/768-1560, website – schedules, fare info, reroutings,
w www.timessquarebid.org/visitor), which history, and fun facts.
can help arrange tours and tickets to NYC Visitors Bureau
Broadway shows. w www.nycvisit.com. The official website
For information about what’s on, the of the New York Convention and Visitors
Village Voice (Wednesdays, free in Man- Bureau.
hattan) is the most widely read, mainly Time Out New York
for its comprehensive arts coverage and w www.timeoutny.com. What’s on this
investigative features. Its main competi- week in music, clubs, book readings,
tor, the New York Press, is an edgier museums, movies, and other features
alternative and has excellent listings. from the publication.
Other leading weeklies include glossy The Village Voice
New York magazine ($2.99), which has w www.villagevoice.com. An alternative
reasonably comprehensive listings, the weekly whose best feature is its witty
venerable New Yorker magazine ($3.95), listings section, “Choices.”
and Time Out New York ($2.99) – a Telecharge
clone of its London original, combining wwww.telecharge.com. Information and
the city’s most comprehensive what’s-on online ticket sales for Broadway and off-
listings with New York-slanted news sto- Broadway theater shows.
ries and entertainment features.
Contents Essentials
217
City transportation
Getting around the city is likely to take from bus to bus (though not from bus to
some getting used to; public trans- subway), within two hours of swiping your
ESSENTIALS
portation here is on the whole quite MetroCard. Keep in mind, though, that
good, extremely cheap, and covers most transfers can only be used to continue on
conceivable corners of the city, whether in your original direction, not for return
by bus or subway. You’ll no doubt find the trips on the same bus line. Bus maps,
need for a taxi from time to time, espe- like subway maps, can be obtained at the
cially if you feel uncomfortable in an area main concourse of Grand Central or the
at night; you shouldn’t ever have trouble Convention and Visitors Bureau at 53rd
City transportation
tracking one down. St and Seventh Ave.
Contents Essentials
218
Cycling
The Yellow Pages has full listings of bike Amsterdam Ave (t 212/663-7531); 360
rental firms. One of the city’s best and W 47th St at Ninth Ave (t 212/581-
biggest bike store chains offering rentals 4500), and other branches in Manhattan.
City tours ESSENTIALS
is Metro Bicycles 1311 Lexington Ave at Standard at $7 an hour and $35 a day, or
E 88th St (t 212/427-4450); 546 Sixth $45 if you return the bike by the next
Ave at W 15th St (t 212/255-5100); day’s closing.
231 W 96th St between Broadway and
City tours
Countless businesses and individuals Jacob Javits Convention Center
compete to help you make sense of the (t 212/967-4550, w www.libertyheli-
city, offering all manner of guided tours. copters.com), offers helicopter flights
One of the more original – and least from around $56 for seven minutes to
expensive – ways to get oriented is with $162 for seventeen minutes per person.
Big Apple Greeter (1 Centre St, suite Helicopters take off regularly between
2035; t 212/669-8159, w www.bigap- 9am and 9pm every day unless winds and
plegreeter.org). This not-for-profit group visibility are bad.
matches you with one of 500 local volun- A great way to see the city skyline is
teers, depending on your interest. Visits with the Circle Line, which sails around
have a friendly, informal feel, and gener- Manhattan in three hours from Pier 83 at
ally last a few hours (although some have the west end of 42nd St (at Twelfth Ave),
gone on all day). The service is free, so taking in everything from bustling down-
get in touch well ahead of time. Tailored town to the more subdued stretches of
tourist packages can be purchased and Harlem, with a commentary and on-
customized through New York City board bar (March–Dec with varying
Vacation Packages (t 1-888/692- regularity; $21 for two-hour tour, $26 for
8701, w www.nycvp.com), which can three-hour tour; t 212/563-3200,
book rooms at some of the city’s finest w www.circleline.com).
hotels, land tickets to sold-out Broadway Options for walking tours of Manhat-
shows, and organize a walking tour of tan or the outer boroughs are many and
Ground Zero or Chinatown for you; just varied:
pick from an a la carte menu of offerings. Adventure on a Shoestring (t 212/265-
Package prices vary widely. 2663) offers such wonderfully off-beat
Gray Line, the biggest operator of guid- options as “Marilyn Monroe’s Manhat-
ed bus tours in the city, is based in tan,” the “When Irish Eyes Were Smiling”
midtown Manhattan at 42nd St and tour of Hell’s Kitchen, and “Greenwich Vil-
Eighth Ave (t 1-800/669-0051, lage Ghosts Galore.” Tours ($5) run ninety
w www.grayline.com); they also have an minutes and are offered on weekends,
office at the Port Authority Bus Terminal. rain or shine, throughout the year.
Half-day double-decker bus tours, taking Big Onion Walking Tours (t 212/439-
in the main sights of Manhattan, go for 1090, w www.bigonion.com) peel off the
around $35, while a full day costs many layers of the city’s history (all
$79–89; these are bookable through any guides hold advanced degrees in Ameri-
travel agent, or directly at the bus stops. can history). Tours run from $12 but
For a bird’s-eye view, Liberty Helicopter expect to add $4 if the tour includes
Tours, at the west end of 30th St near the “noshing stops.”
Contents Essentials
219
CityPass
For significant discounts at six of the city’s major tourist and cultural attractions –
the American Museum of Natural History, the Guggenheim Museum, the Museum of
Modern Art, the Intrepid Sea-Air-Space Museum, the Circle Line Harbor Cruise, and
ESSENTIALS
the Empire State Building – you can purchase a CityPass ($45; t707/256-0490,
w www.citypass.com). Valid for nine days, it allows you to skip most lines and save
(up to $46, if you visit all six sights). CityPasses are sold at each of the six attrac-
tions to which the pass provides admission.
Money
With an ATM card (and PIN number) on Thursdays or Fridays, and a few have
you’ll have access to cash from limited Saturday hours. Major banks –
machines all over New York, though as such as Citibank and Chase – will
anywhere, you may be a charged a fee exchange travelers’ checks and currency
for using a different bank’s ATM network. at a standard rate. For banking services
To find the location of the nearest ATM, – particularly currency exhange – outside
call: Amex T 1-800/CASH-NOW, Plus normal business hours and on weekends,
T 1-800/843-7587, or Cirrus T 1- try major hotels: the rate won’t be as
800/424-7787. good, but it’s the best option in a tight
Most banks are open Monday–Friday financial corner.
9am–3pm: some banks stay open later
Contents Essentials
220
letters and 70¢ for postcards to Europe coffee.com). You can also visit Easy
or Australia. To find a post office or check Everything, 234 W 42nd St between
up-to-date rates, see W www.usps.com Seventh and Eighth aves (no phone,
or call T 1-800/275-8777. w www.easyeverything.com), which has
If you’re traveling without your own hundreds of terminals. These places
Festivals and holidays ESSENTIALS
computer and modem, accessing your charge $10–12 an hour, and you can
email is possible at numerous Internet easily access your email, surf the Net to
cafés. Try the Cyber Cafe, 250 W 49th St your heart’s content, or just drink coffee.
between Broadway and Eighth Ave An alternative is to stop by a branch of
(T 212/333-4109, w www.cyber- the New York City Public Library, where
cafe.com) or alt.coffee, at 139 Ave A at E free internet use is available.
9th St (T 212/529-2233, w www.altdot-
Contents Essentials
221
Public holidays
January September
1: New Year’s Day 1st Monday: Labor Day
3rd Monday: Dr Martin Luther King October
ESSENTIALS
Jr’s Birthday 2nd Monday: Columbus Day
February November
3rd Monday: Presidents’ Day 11: Veterans’ Day
May 4th Thursday: Thanksgiving Day
Last Monday: Memorial Day December
July 25: Christmas Day
Directory
4: Independence Day
Directory
Airlines Toll-free phone numbers of adapter. Be warned, some converters may
foreign airlines include: not be able to handle certain high-
Air India t 1-800/223-7776; wattage items, especially those with
Air New Zealand t 1-800/262-1234; heated elements.
British Airways t 1-800/247-9297; Emergencies For Police, Fire, or
Japan Air Lines t 1-800/525-3663; Ambulance dial t 911.
Korean Airlines t1-800/438-5000; ID Carry some at all times, as there are
Kuwait Airways t 1-800/458-9248; any number of occasions on which you
Virgin Atlantic Airways t1-800/862-8621. may be asked to show it. Two pieces of ID
Consulates Australia, 150 E 42nd St are preferable and one should have a
(t212/351-6500, w www.australia photo – passport and credit card are the
nyc.org); Canada, 1251 6th Ave at 50th St best bets. Almost every bar and most
(t 212/596-1628, w www.canada- restaurants (serving alcohol) in New York
ny.org); Ireland, 345 Park Ave at 51st St will ask for proof of age (21 and over).
(t 212/319-2555); New Zealand, 222 E Lost property Things lost on buses or on
41st St between 2nd and 3rd aves the subway: NYC Transit Authority, at the
(t212/832-4038); South Africa, 333 E 34th St/8th Ave Station on the lower
38th St at 1st Ave (t212/213-4880, level-subway mezzanine (Mon–Wed & Fri
w www.southafrica-newyork.net 8am–noon, Thurs 11am–6.30pm
/consulate); UK, 845 3rd Ave between t212/712-4500). Property lost on
51st and 52nd sts (t 212/745-0200, Amtrak: Penn Station upper level (Mon–Fri
w www.britainusa.com/ny). 7.30am–4pm t 212/630-7389). For
Electric current 110V AC with two- Metro North: Grand Central Terminal
pronged plugs. Unless they’re dual lower-level (Mon–Fri 7am–6pm, Sat
voltage, all British appliances will need a 9am–5pm t212/340-2555,
voltage converter as well as a plug w www.mta.info). Things lost in a cab:
Contents Essentials
222
Taxi & Limousine Commission Lost double the tax) – even if you disliked the
Property Dept (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm except service.
national holidays t 311 or t 212/227- Worship The following (and many, many
0700, w www.nyc.gov/taxi). others) conduct regular services and
Tax Within New York City you’ll pay an masses. Anglican (Episcopal): Cathedral of
Directory ESSENTIALS
8.625 percent sales tax on top of marked St John the Divine, 1047 Amsterdam Ave
prices on just about everything but the at 112th St (t212/316-7540,
very barest of essentials. Clothing w www.stjohndivine.org); St
(excluding shoes) is exempt for items up Bartholomew’s, 109 E 50th St between
to $110 are without tax. Hotel stays are Park and Lexington aves (t212/378-
subject to sales tax, five percent hotel tax, 0200, w www.stbarts.org). Catholic: St
and $2 per room per night. Patrick’s Cathedral, 5th Ave between 50th
Time Three hours ahead of West Coast and 51st sts (t 212/753-2261,
North America, five hours behind Britain w www.ny-archdiocese.org). Jewish
and Ireland, fourteen to sixteen hours (Reform): Temple Emanu-El, 1 E 65th St at
behind East Coast Australia (variations for 5th Ave (t212/744-1400,
Daylight Savings Time), sixteen to w www.emanuelnyc.org). Jewish
eighteen hours behind New Zealand (Conservative): Park Avenue Synagogue,
(variations for Daylight Savings Time). 50 E 87th St at Madison Ave (t212/369-
Tipping Tipping, in a restaurant, bar, taxi 2600, w www.pasyn.com). Muslim:
cab, or hotel lobby, on a guided tour, and Islamic Cultural Center of New York, 1711
even in some posh washrooms, is a part 3rd Ave at 96th St (t212/722-5234).
of life in the States. In restaurants in Unitarian: Church of All Souls, 1157
particular, it’s unthinkable not to leave the Lexington Ave at 80th St (t212/535-
minimum (fifteen percent of the bill or 5530, w www.allsoulsnyc.org).
Contents Essentials
Index and small print
“rougher” information about hostels and low-budget listings with the kind of detail on restau-
rants and quality hotels that independent-minded visitors on any budget might expect, whether
on business in New York or trekking in Thailand. These days the guides offer recommendations
from shoestring to luxury and they cover a large number of destinations around the globe,
including almost every country in the Americas and Europe, more than half of Africa and most of
Asia and Australasia. Rough Guides now publish:
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Publishing information
This 1st edition published August 2004 by Rough © Martin Dunford August 2004
Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL. No part of this book may be reproduced in any
345 Hudson St, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10014, form without permission from the publisher except
USA. for the quotation of brief passages in reviews.
Distributed by the Penguin Group 240pp includes index
Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL A catalogue record for this book is available from
Penguin Group (USA), 375 Hudson Street, NY the British Library
10014, USA
Penguin Group (Australia), 487 Maroondah ISBN 1-84353-322-7
Highway, PO Box 257, Ringwood, Victoria 3134,
Australia The publishers and authors have done their best to
Penguin Group (Canada), 10 Alcorn Avenue, ensure the accuracy and currency of all the infor-
Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4V 1E4 mation in New York DIRECTIONS, however, they
Penguin Group (NZ), 182–190 Wairau Road, can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or
Auckland 10, New Zealand inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result
Typeset in Bembo and Helvetica to an original of information or advice contained in the guide.
design by Henry Iles. 1 3 5 7 9 8 6 4 2
Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom
Help us update
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The author
INDEX
Martin Dunford is one of the founders of Rough including those to Amsterdam, The Netherlands,
Guides and now works as its Publishing Director. Brussels, Belgium & Luxembourg, Italy, and Rome.
He is the author (or co-author) of several guides,
Acknowledgements
Thanks to Andrew Rosenberg and Richard Koss for Jarvis and Jj Luck for great layout and picture
patient editing and overall guidance, and Diana selection respectively.
Photo credits
All images © Nelson Hancock/Rough Guides except the following:
Front cover: Cabs in Times Square © Digital Vision Appleton/Corbis
Back cover: Grand Central Station with Chrysler p.56 Women Singers Performing in The Mikado
Building© Robert Harding © Lee Snider/Corbis
p.10 Big Julie, 1945 (oil on canvas) by Fernand p.57 Performance of La Bayadere at the
Léger (1881-1955) Metropolitan Opera House © Julie
Museum of Modern Art, New York, USA / Lemberger/Corbis
Bridgeman Art Library p.57 Brazilian Dancers Performing Folkloric Ballet
p.13 Peter Luger’s Steak House © Peter Luger’s © Julie Lemberger/Corbis
Steak House p.61 Bubby’s © Ron Silver/Bubby’s Pie Co.
p.19 Early Sunday Morning by Edward Hopper © p.62 Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade © Michel
Francis G. Mayer/Corbis Friang/Alamy
p.28 Traffic Speeding Past Radio City Music Hall p.63 Hallowe’en Parade © Village Halloween
© Alan Schein Photography/Corbis Parade
p.29 Don Hill’s © Mark Peterson/CORBIS p.63 New Year’s Eve, Times Square ©
p.29 Jazz Band at the Knitting Factory © Kevin Reuters/Corbis
Fleming/Corbis p.63 Chinese Dragon at Chinese New Year’s
p.35 Helicopter Tours © Picture courtesy of Parade © Alan Schein Photoagraphy/Corbis
Liberty Helicopters p.136 47th Street, Diamond District © Gail
p.37 The Monster Club © The Monster Club Mooney/Corbis
p.41 Yankee Stadium © Shannon p.138 Intrepid Sea Air & Space Museum ©
Stapleton/Reuters/Corbis Intrepid Sea Air & Space Museum
p.47 ‘Breakfast At Tiffany’s’, Audrey Hepburn © p.142 42nd Street © Shannon
SNAP (SYP)/Rex Features Stapleton/Reuters/Corbis
p.50 Aquavit Restaurant © Najlah Feanny/Corbis p.144 New York Public Library Reading Room ©
p.51 71 Clinton Fresh Food © Steve Doughton Bo Zaunders/Corbis
p.51 Balthazar © Mark Peterson/Corbis p.166 Park Avenue © Zefa/Masterfile/Roy Ooms
p.51 BondSt © BondSt p.168 Chocolates at the Payard Bistro © Payard
p.53 St. Marks-in-the-Bowery © Lee Bistro
Snider/Corbis p.169 Roof Garden © Ambient Images Inc./Alamy
p.54 Elvis Costello Performs at SummerStage © p.190 Greek Astoria © StockAB/Alamy
David Bergman/Corbis p.192 Yankee Stadium © Chris Bradley/Axiom
p.55 Times Square TKTS Booth © Michael
Index
Map entries are marked in spot colour
c TriBeCa
City Museum
city transportation
80
165
55, 217
De Niro, Robert
Delacorte Theater
Delancey Street
84
159
98
cafés (by area) CityPass 219 Diamond Row 136
Central Park 160 Clinton Street 98 driving 216, 217
Chinatown and Little Italy 89 Cloisters Museum 184
East Village 107 clubs and music venues 55
Greenwich Village
SoHo
Upper East Side
117
94
168
Bar
Arlene’s Grocery
Arthur’s Tavern
120
102
120
e
INDEX
Upper West Side 176 Avalon 134 East Village 103
cafés Beacon Theatre 57, 179 East Village 104
Boathouse Café 160 Birdland 142 Eighth Avenue 121
Café dell’Artista 117 Blue Smoke: El Barrio 180, 184
Doma 117 Jazz Standard 134 Eldridge Street Synagogue 99
Edgar’s 176 Bowery Ballroom 102 electric current 221
Ferrara 89 Bowery Poetry Club 111
Ellis Island 11, 69
Gitane 94 Bungalow 8 127
emergencies 221
Hungarian Pastry Café Carlyle 170
Centro-Fly 134 Empire State Building 10, 25,
Shop 22, 177
Le Figaro 22, 117 China Club 143 34, 46, 131
Le Pain Quotidien 94 Don Hill’s 29, 96 Essex Street 99
Magnolia Bakery 117 Don’t Tell Mama 143 ethnic New York 16
Mozart 176 Frying Pan 127
Payard Bistro 168 g 127
Podunk Café
Sabarsky
Serendipity 3
107
23, 168
168
GBGB and OMFUG
Iridium Jazz Club
Irving Plaza
111
143
134
f
Tea and Tea 89 Joe’s Pub 111 Federal Hall 71
Thé Adoré 23, 107 Joyce 127 ferries 55, 67
Veniero’s 23, 107 Knitting Factory 29, 84 festivals 220
Canal Street 20, 87 Limelight 134 Fifth Avenue 21, 144, 161
Carl Schurz Park 167 Marie’s Crisis 37 Fifty-seventh Street 137
Carnegie Hall 57, 137 Mercury Lounge 29, 102
Financial District 7, 70
cast-iron buildings 91 Pyramid Club 111
Financial District 71
Castle Clinton 67 Roseland 143
Roxy 127
Flatiron Building 130
Cathedral of St John the Forbes Magazine
Divine 52, 175 S.O.B.’s 120
Smoke 179 Galleries 115
Central Park 8, 11, Fraunces Tavern Museum 75
Suede 127
54,155 Frick Collection 19, 161
Supper Club 143
Central Park 156 Swing 46 Jazz Club 143
Central Park Zoo 43, Tonic 102
Chelsea
Chelsea and the Garment
155
121, 124
Village Underground 29, 120
Village Vanguard
Columbia University
120
175
g
District 122 comedy clubs galleries
Chelsea Hotel Caroline’s on Broadway 143 123 Watts 82
48, 122, 204 Chicago City Limits 170 Apex Art 82
Children’s Museum of Comic Strip Live 170 Art in General 82
Manhattan 42, 174 Gotham 134 Art Projects International 82
Chinatown 7, 17, 85 Stand Up New York 179 Artists’ Space 93
Chinatown and Coney Island 41, 189 Barbara Gladstone 124
Little Italy 86 consulates 221 Brent Sikkema 124
Chinese New Year 63, 220 Cooper Union 104 Cheryl Pelavin Fine Arts 82
Christopher Street Cooper-Hewitt National Design Drawing Center 93
Museum 164 Gagosian 124
37, 114
Gorney Bravin + Lee 124
Chrysler Building 25, 151 cruises 35, 75
Kennedy 139
Church of the Ascension 115 Cunard Building 73 Marlborough 139
Church of the Transfiguration cycling 218 Mary Boone 139
(Chinatown) 86 Max Protetch 124
Church of the Pat Hearn 124
Transfiguration
Citicorp Center
City Hall Park
130
24, 151
79
d Ronald Feldman Fine Arts 94
Slingshot Project
Tibor de Nagy
66 94
139
City Hall Park and Dakota Building 47, 171 Garment District 121, 123, 125
h Plaza
Plaza
32, 148, 206
32
201
Westin (Times Square) 207
Westpark
Whitehouse
207
209
m
Alex 207 Wyndham 207 Macy’s department
Algonquin 49, 136, 205
Houston Street 97 store 59, 125
Ameritania 205
Macy’s Thanksgiving Day
Amsterdam Inn 208
Beekman Tower 207 Parade 62, 220
Box Tree
Broadway Inn
Bryant Park
211
205
205
i Madison Avenue 21, 148, 165
Madison Square
Madison Square Garden 123
130
INDEX
NYPD 75 Gramercy Park 15, 129
Midtown East 145 P.S.1 Contemporary Art
Minuit, Peter 74 Mount Morris 181
Center 191 Prospect Park 15, 188
MoMA QNS 191 Skyscraper 75 Riverside Park 15, 174
money 219 South Street Seaport 76 Tompkins Square 106
Morgan Library 131 Studio Museum Washington Square
Morningside Heights 171, in Harlem 181 Park 49, 112
175, 177, 178 Television and Radio 147
Patchin Place 115
Morris-Jumel Mansion 184 The Cloisters 184
Whitney Museum
Penn Station 123
Mott Street 85 phones 219
Mount Morris Park 181 19, 165
Pier 17 75
Mount Morris Park Historical Plaza Hotel 32, 148, 206
District 181
Mount Vernon Hotel Museum
& Garden 166
n Powell, Adam
Clayton, Jr
Prospect Park
18
15, 188
Mulberry Street 88
Municipal Building 81 National Academy
of Design 164
Murray Hill
Murray Hill
Museo del Barrio
128
129
184
New Year’s Eve
celebrations 63, 220
q
Museum of Modern New York Aquarium 43, 189
New York Botanical Queens 186, 190, 193, 195,
Art 10, 147 197, 198
museums Garden 14, 192
American Craft 147 New York City
American Financial Police Museum 75
History
American Indian Museum 74
73 New York Harbor
New York Life Building
67
130
r
American Museum of Natural New York Public
History 19, 173 Library 144 Radio City Music Hall 28, 146
Asia Society 166 New York State Theater 171 religious services 222
Brooklyn Museum New York Transit restaurants (by area)
of Art 186 Central Park 160
Museum 43, 186
Children’s Museum of Chelsea 125
Newark airport 215
Manhattan 42,174 Chinatown and
New-York Historical Little Italy 89
Chinese in the
Americas 86
Society 173 East Village 107
City of New York 165 NoLita 91 Financial District 77
Cooper-Hewitt National Greenwich Village 117
Design 164 Harlem 185
Forbes Magazine
Galleries
Fraunces Tavern
115
75
o Lower East Side
Midtown East
outer boroughs
100
153
193
Frick Collection 19, 161 Old Police Headquarters 88 SoHo 94
Guggenheim 164 Old St Patrick’s Cathedral 88 Times Square and Theater
Immigration 69 Orchard Street 21, 97 District 139
International Center of Outer boroughs 186 TriBeCa 82
Photography 136 Outer boroughs 187 Union Square, Gramercy Park,
Intrepid 138 and Murray Hill 132
Isamu Noguchi Garden 191 Upper East Side 168
Jewish Heritage 74 Upper West Side 177
Jewish
Lower East Side
165
p restaurants
360 193
Tenement 19, 97 71 Clinton Fresh
Merchant’s House 103 P.S.1 Contemporary Food 51,100
Metropolitan Museum of Art Art Center 191 Al Di Là 194
11, 18, 170, 161 Paine, Thomas 114 Amy Ruth’s 185
MoMA QNS 190 parades 62, 220 Aquagrill 94
s Ina
J&R Music and Computer
World
92
82
SoHo
Sony Building
South Street Seaport
92
148
75
JR Cigar 152 South Street Seaport
Saks department store 59 Kalustyan’s 131
Schomberg Center for Museum 76
Kam Man Food Spanish Harlem 180, 184
Research in Black Products 88
Culture 181 St Bartholomew’s Church 150
Kate Spade 92
Seagram Building 150 Kate’s Paperie 93
St Elizabeth 75
Seinfeld 47, 178 Kiehl’s 107 St James’ Church 165
St Luke’s-in-the-
INDEX
Seventh Regiment Kossar’s Bialys 99
Armory 166 Language 93 Fields Church 113
Shea Stadium 191 Li-Lac 116 St Mark’s in-the-Bowery
Sheridan Square 114 Loehmann’s 125 Church 53, 106
Sherman, General William Lord & Taylor 131 St Mark’s Place 106
Tecumseh 148
Love Saves the Day 107 St Martin’s Episcopal
Macy’s 59, 125 Church 181
shops (by area) Manny’s Music 139
Chelsea 125 St Patrick’s Cathedral 53. 147
Maxilla & Mandible 176 St Patrick’s Day Parade 220
Chinatown and
Mixona 93 St Paul’s Chapel 73
Little Italy 88
MoMA Design Store 93 St Peter’s Church 151
East Village 106
Moss 93
Financial District 76 Staten Island 186, 195
Murder Ink 176
Garment District 125
Murray’s Cheese
Staten Island ferry 55, 67
Greenwich Village 115 Statue of Liberty 11, 68
Shop 26, 116
Lower East Side 99 Stock Exchange 70
New York Yankees
Midtown East 152 Stonewall Inn 36, 119
Clubhouse 76
outer boroughs 193 Strivers’ Row 183
Niketown 152
SoHo 92 Studio Museum
Orwasher’s Bakery 167
Times Square 139 in Harlem 181
Oscar Wilde Memorial
TriBeCa 82
Bookshop 37, 116 subway 35, 217
Union Square, Gramercy Park,
Other Music 107
and Murray Hill 131
Paragon Sporting Goods 131
Upper East Side 167
Upper West Side
shops
175
Pearl Paint Company
Pierre Garroudi
Print Icon
89
93
131
t
555-Seoul 92 Push 93
Aaron’s 193 tax 222
Russ & Daughter 27, 99
ABC Carpet and Home 131 Sahadi 193
taxis 217
Acker, Merrall & Condit 175 Saks Fifth Avenue 59, 152 Television and Radio
Alleva Dairy 88 Screaming Mimi’s 107 Museum 147
Astor Place Hair Seize Sur Veinte 93 Temple Emanu-El 53, 161
Designers 106 Shanghai Tang 167 Thanksgiving Day Parade 220
Barney Greengrass 175 Strand Bookstore 107 Theater District
Barney’s 59, 167 Strand Seaport 77 138, 135
Bergdorf Goodman 152 Takashimaya 153 Theater District 135
Blades, Board & Skate 176 Tender Buttons 167 theater tickets 55, 137
Bloomingdale’s 58, 167 Terrence Conran 167
Bowne & Co 76
theaters
Three Lives & Co 116 Delacorte 54, 159
C.O Bigelow Tiffany & Co 47, 59, 153 New York State 171
Pharmacy 115 Titan 193 Symphony Space 57, 179
Caswell-Massey Ltd 152 Totem Design Group 82
Century 21 76, 193 Theodore Roosevelt’s
Trash ‘n’ Vaudeville 107 Birthplace 128
Chelsea Market 125 Urban Archeology 82
Citarella 176 Thomas, Dylan 49, 120
Vera Wang Bridal Salon 167
Complete Traveler 131 Times Square 137
Village Chess Shop 116
Dave’s Army and Village Comics 116
Times Square and Theater
Navy Store 125 William Barthman Jewelry 77 District 135
Dean and Deluca 27, 92 Yonah Schimmel tipping 222
DiPaolo Dairy 88 Knish Bakery 45, 100 TKTS booth 55, 137
Dylan’s Candy Bar 167 Zabar’s 27, 176 Tompkins Square Park 106
East Village Cheese Store 107 Shrine of Elizabeth tours 218
Generation Records 116 train terminals 215
Ann Seton 75
Guss’s Lower East Side TriBeCa 79
Pickles 99
Sixth Avenue 136
Skyscraper Museum 75 TriBeCa 80
H&H Bagels 176
Henry Lehr 92 Smithsonian National Museum Trinity Church 72
House of Oldies 116 of the American Indian 74 Trump Tower 147
Il Laboratorio del Gelato 99 SoHo 7, 91 Tweed Courthouse 79
u w y
Union Square 128 Waldorf Astoria Yankee Stadium 43, 192
Union Square Farmers’ Hotel 33, 150, 208 Yankee Stadium 43
Market 27 Wall Street 70 YMCAs 209
Union Square, Gramercy Washington Heights 180, 184 youth hostels 209
Park, and Murray Hill 129 Washington Square
United Nations 151 Park 49, 112
z
INDEX
v American Art
Williamsburg
19, 165
189
Wollman Memorial Ice Skating
Vanderbilt, Cornelius 149 Rink (Central Park) 155
Village Hallowe’en Parade 220 Woolworth Building 25, 80
World Trade Center 72, 73
t rave l
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MORNINGSIDE
LEXINGTON AVENUE
F. DOUGLASS BLVD
A.C.POWELL BLVD
MADISON AVENUE
SECOND AVENUE
LENOX AVENUE
THIRD AVENUE
FIRST AVENUE
HEIGHTS
FIFTH AVENUE
PARK AVENUE
Columbia
N University
Cathedral of St.
John the Divine Rondalls
EL BARRIO Island
W. 106TH ST. E. 106TH ST.
B R O A D WAY
Park
W. 96TH ST. E. 96TH ST.
The Guggenheim
Museum
American
W. 86TH ST. Museum of E. 86TH ST.
Metropolitan
R i v e r
Natural
History
Central Museum of Art
W. 79TH ST. E. 79TH ST.
QUEENS
NEW UPPER UPPER
H u d s o n
YORK AVENUE
SIDE Collection SIDE Roosevelt
Island
Lincoln
Center E. 66TH ST.
Museum of QUEENSBORO
Modern Art BRIDGE
NINTH AVENUE
Rockefeller
W.50TH ST.
Center E. 50TH ST.
Building
ELEVENTH AVENUE
PARK AVENUE
W. 34TH ST.
GARMENTEmpire MURRAY MIDTOWN
TENTH AVENUE
TUNNEL
DISTRICT State HILL
AVE.
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consult Passenger Information Centers in stations or call our Center Jay St
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N Trinity Church E ST.
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WA
BATTERY PLACE
F. OU
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ST
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Museum of Fraunces
HI
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Tavern
HA
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R E
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Park
M
278
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BROOKLYN-
0 800 yds is
Islan n
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