What is hydroponics? The word, Hydroponic, comes from Latin and means working water.

Simply put, it is the art of growing plants without soil. When most people think of hydroponics, they think of plants grown with their roots suspended directly into water with no growing medium. This is just one type of hydroponic gardening known as N.F.T. (nutrient film technique). There are several variations of N.F.T. used around the world and it is a very popular method of growing hydroponically. What most people don't realize is that there are countless methods and variations of hydroponic gardening. In this section, we explain the most common, including the pros and cons of each along with an abundance of great, general information about hydroponics. That's simple. If you give a plant exactly what it needs, when it needs it, in the amount that it needs, the plant will be as healthy as is genetically possible. With hydroponics this is an easy task; in soil it is far more difficult. With hydroponics the plants are grown in an inert growing medium (see below) and a perfectly balanced, pH adjusted nutrient solution is delivered to the roots in a highly soluble form. This allows the plant to uptake its food with very little effort as opposed to soil where the roots must search out the nutrients and extract them. This is true even when using rich, organic soil and top of the line nutrients. The energy expended by the roots in this process is energy better spent on vegetative growth and fruit and flower production. If you grow two genetically identical plants using soil for one and hydroponics for the other, you will almost immediately see the difference this factor makes. Faster, better growth and much greater yields are just some of the many reasons that hydroponics is being adapted around the world for commercial food production as well as a growing number of home, hobby gardeners. Basic Hydroponic Systems and How They Work There are 6 basic types of hydroponic systems; Wick, Water Culture, Ebb and Flow (Flood & Drain), Drip (recovery or non-recovery), N.F.T. (Nutrient Film Technique) and Aeroponic. There are hundreds of variations on these basic types of systems, but all hydroponic methods are a variation (or combination) of these six. Scroll down this page (or click on the system names) to see drawings and a description of each type of hydroponic system. WICK SYSTEM

The Wick system is by far the simplest type of hydroponic system. This is a passive system, which means there are no moving parts. The nutrient solution is drawn into the growing medium from the reservoir with a wick. Free plans for a simple wick system are available.

This system can use a variety of growing medium. Perlite, Vermiculite, Pro-Mix and Coconut Fiber are among the most popular. The biggest draw back of this system is that plants that are large or use large amounts of water may use up the nutrient solution faster than the wick(s) can supply it. WATER CULTURE The water culture system is the simplest of all active hydroponic systems. The platform that holds the plants is usually made of Styrofoam and floats directly on the nutrient solution. An air pump supplies air to the air stone that bubbles the nutrient solution and supplies oxygen to the roots of the plants. Water culture is the system of choice for growing leaf lettuce, which are fast growing water loving plants, making them an ideal choice for this type of hydroponic system. Very few plants other than lettuce will do well in this type of system. This type of hydroponic system is great for the classroom and is popular with teachers. A very inexpensive system can be made out of an old aquarium or other water tight container. We have free plans and instructions for a simply water culture system (click here for free plans). The biggest draw back of this kind of system is that it doesn't work well with large plants or with long-term plants.

Convert an aquarium into a simple hydroponic system. The plants are suspended on a floating Styrofoam platform. This system is popular for classrooms because the roots of the plants are visible hanging below the floating platform.

MATERIALS REQUIRED AQUARIUM - Any water tight container with fairly vertical sides will work. Light breaks down the nutrient solution and encourages algae growth so if you us an aquarium you will need to construct a light shield out of cardboard or aluminum foil to keep light out of the reservoir (aquarium). If you wish to view the roots make the light shield (or part of it) removable. FLOATING PLATFORM - You will need a piece of Styrofoam 1 1/2" to 2" thick. Cut Styrofoam to fit loosely inside the aquarium (or whatever you are using for a reservoir). PLASTIC CUPS - Use several small plastic or Styrofoam cups to hold the plants on the floating platform. NOTE: We usually use Solo brand 3oz. plastic bathroom cups, but you can use any small plastic cup as long as it has tapered sides. GROWING MEDIUM - - You will need a small amount of growing medium, enough to fill the plastic cups. NOTE: The Professor recommends using Perlite or a perlite / Vermiculite mix for the growing medium. AIR PUMP AND AIR STONE - You need to use an air pump and airstone to oxygenate the nutrient solution. A regular air pump designed for an aquarium is all that is required.

HYDROPONIC FERTILIZER * - A good quality hydroponic fertilizer is required, regular "dirt" fertilizers do not contain essential "micro-nutrients". For more information about the differences in hydroponic and "dirt" fertilizers CLICK HERE. pH TEST KIT * - You will need some way of checking and adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution. *NOTE: Simply Hydroponics and Organics has an inexpensive "Starter kit" that consists of quality hydroponic fertilizer, a liquid pH test kit (good for hundreds of tests) two bottles of liquid pH adjuster (1 pint pH up, 1 pint pH down) and Instructions. Cut the Styrofoam float to fit the reservoir. Cut the float a little smaller than the opening so that it won't bind up when the water level changes. Cut the holes in the float to the proper size for the plastic cups that you are using, you want the bottoms of the cups to hang below the bottom of the float but not fall through. NOTE: We usually use Solo brand 3oz. plastic bathroom cups, these require a 1 7/8" to 2" hole. Cut several holes (aprox. 1/8" to 1/4" dia.) in the bottom of your plastic cups. Add growing medium to the cup. NOTE: if the growing medium falls out through the holes you can put a small piece of fiberglass window screen or small piece of cloth over the holes before adding the growing medium. CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS Fill the aquarium (reservoir) with water. Mix your nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check pH and adjust accordingly. NOTE: The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant. Attach 1/4" airline to the air stone and place airstone in reservoir. Attach free end of tubing to air pump and plug in air pump to outlet, make sure that there are bubbles coming from the air stone. NOTE: NEVER submerge the air pump in water as electrical shock could occur. Place floating platform on top of the nutrient solution. Put plastic cups into the holes in the floating platform. When the plants have used up about half of the nutrient solution you can add WATER ONLY to bring the level back up (do not add fertilizer or you could cause a nutrient build up that could harm the plants). Recheck pH and adjust if necessary. When the plants have used half of the nutrient solution for the second time you need to change out the nutrient solution by draining the reservoir and then mix a fresh batch. Use the old nutrient solution on house plants or other vegetation.

EBB & FLOW - (FLOOD AND DRAIN)

The Ebb and Flow system works by temporarily flooding the grow tray with nutrient solution and then draining the solution back into the reservoir. This action is normally done with a submerged pump that is connected to a timer. When the timer turns the pump on nutrient solution is pumped into the grow tray. When the timer shuts the pump off the nutrient solution flows back into the reservoir. The Timer is set to come on several times a day, depending on the size and type of plants, temperature and humidity and the type of growing medium used. The Ebb & Flow is a versatile system that can be used with a variety of growing mediums. The entire grow tray can be filled with Grow Rocks, gravel or granular Rockwool. Many people like to use individual pots filled with growing medium, this makes it easier to move plants around or even move them in or out of the system. The main disadvantage of this type of system is that with some types of growing medium (Gravel, Growrocks, Perlite), there is a vulnerability to power outages as well as pump and timer failures. The roots can dry out quickly when the watering cycles are interrupted. This problem can be relieved somewhat by using growing media that retains more water (Rockwool, Vermiculite, coconut fiber or a good soiless mix like Pro-mix or Faffard's). This system uses two 5 gallon buckets or equivalent. One is filled with growing medium and the other holds the nutrient solution. The plants are watered by lifting the bucket containing the nutrient solution. This allows the solution to flow into the bucket containing the growing medium and Plant(s). To drain, simply lower the nutrient bucket and gravity drains the solution back into the reservoir (see drawing on left).

This system uses two 5 gallon buckets or equivalent. One is filled with growing medium and the other holds the nutrient solution. The plants are watered by lifting the bucket containing the nutrient solution. This allows the solution to flow into the bucket containing the growing medium and Plant(s). To drain, simply lower the nutrient bucket and gravity drains the solution back into the reservoir (see drawing on left).

MATERIALS REQUIRED 2 - 5 GALLON BUCKETS (or equivalent water tight plastic container). Make sure that the buckets don't have any leaks.

GROWING MEDIUM - The Professor favors straight Perlite or a Perlite / Vermiculite mix for this system, however there is a vast variety of growing mediums that will work well. For more information about growing medium CLICK HERE. FLEXIBLE VINYL TUBING - You need a length of flexible tubing long enough for the buckets to be moved as in the drawing above (4-5 is usually enough). You will also need about the same length of flexible tubing to attach your air stone to your air pump. FIBERGLASS WINDOW SCREEN - You will need a small amount of fiberglass window screen (12" x 12"). AIR PUMP AND AIR STONE - You need to use an air pump and air stone to oxygenate the nutrient solution. A regular air pump designed for an aquarium is all that is required. 2- GROMETS 2-1/2 STRAIGHT BARBED CONNECTORS GRAVEL - You will need enough gravel to cover the bottom of your growing container approximately 23. Use fairly coarse gravel ( to 1 diameter). NOTE: A 5 gallon bucket needs about a gallon of gravel to reach this level. HYDROPONIC FERTILIZER * - A good quality hydroponic fertilizer is required. Fertilizers made for soil do not contain essential micro-nutrients. For more information about the differences in hydroponic and soil fertilizers CLICK HERE. pH TEST KIT *- You will need to check and adjust the pH of your nutrient solution. NOTE: Simply Hydroponics and Organics has an inexpensive "Starter kit" that consists of quality hydroponic fertilizer, a liquid pH test kit (good for hundreds of tests) two bottles of liquid pH adjuster (1 pint pH up, 1 pint pH down) and Instructions. CLICK HERE for additional information. ASSEMBLY OF SYSTEM Drill holes in the side of the CLEAN plastic buckets, approximately 1/2" above the bottom and insert gromets. Insert the straight barbed connectors into the gromets and attach the 2 ends of your tubing to the connectors. Place the gravel into the bottom of one of the buckets. This will be the planter and the other bucket will be the reservoir. Place the window screen over the top of the gravel. Fold the excess over or you can trim the screen with a pair of scissors. The screen acts as a filter to keep the growing medium in place so try to fit the screen as close to the sides of the bucket as possible. You don't have to have a perfect fit, but the better the screen fits the less growing medium will get washed into the reservoir when you drain the system during the Ebb cycle. If too much growing medium gets through the screen it can clog the fill/drain tube. Add the growing medium to the bucket. You will need to wash and/or pre-soak the growing medium before adding to the system, depending on the type of growing medium that you are using. For more information about Growing Mediums CLICK HERE). Plant your seedling, rooted cutting or seed in the growing medium. NOTE: The Professor recommends starting your seeds separately and then adding the seedling(s) to the system. CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS

Put the planter on a raised platform and leave the reservoir in the lowered position. If you don't already have something to use as a platform there is an easy way to make one. Stand two standard masonry blocks on end and place a board big enough to hold both buckets on top. Fill your reservoir with water and mix the nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check the pH of the nutrient solution and adjust accordingly. The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant and the kind of growing medium. For more information on pH, CLICK HERE). Cover the reservoir with a loose fitting lid to keep out debris. It is necessary to aerate the nutrient solution with an air pump and air stone to keep it from stagnating. To feed and water your plant(s), simply lift the reservoir bucket and set it on the platform next to the planter bucket. Wait a few minutes and then lower the reservoir back down. CAUTION: A full 5 gallon bucket weighs about 40 pounds. If you can't lift that much, make smaller amounts of nutrient solution. Repeat step #9 periodically. How often you need to do a watering cycle depends on several variables; size and type of plants, type of growing medium, weather conditions, etc... It can be a bit of a guessing game until you get it dialed in but with this type of system it is hard to over water so when in doubt...DO IT. Check the pH of the nutrient solution every couple of days and adjust if needed. When the plants have used up about half of the nutrient solution you can add WATER ONLY to bring the level back up. Do not add fertilizer or you could cause a nutrient build up that could harm the plants. Recheck the pH and adjust if necessary. When the plants have used half of the nutrient solution for the second time you need to change out the solution by draining the reservoir and then mix a fresh batch. Use the old nutrient solution on house plants or other vegetation. Article 1-1 Flood & Drain Systems FLOOD AND DRAIN SYSTEMS

Answer: These irrigation systems are based on a very simple concept: plants grow in individual rockwool blocks in a large shallow tray. The tray is flooded with nutrient solution until the rockwool cubes and roots are wet, then the tray is drained to allow air back into the cubes. Rockwool soaks up the food and water like a sponge, so irrigation generally takes only a few minutes at a time. Gravity draws excess water from the cubes and keeps the roots healthy. The simplicity of this system lends itself to many uses in horticulture. Large-scale commercial propagation systems using the flood and drain concept are becoming more common every day, since crops rooted in

rockwool blocks can be transplanted to potting soil, hydrocorn, larger rockwool blocks, and even nutrient flow (NFT) and aeroponic systems. Flood tables have also become popular for intensive crop production of shorter crop plants (to about a meter tall). Herbs, flowering ornamental crops (miniature roses, poinsettias) and even cherry tomato plants work well in this garden system. Indoor growers working with short crop plants find this system very productive gardening under lights, especially with horizontal shades for intense light levels. Since the crop grows directly under the lamps, and virtually all the light is directed down onto the crop, the need for reflective material on walls is eliminated. Instead of crowding crops into the corner of a room in a desperate effort to capture light lost by inefficient reflectors, these tables work better placed in an open area for easier temperature control and greater air movement through the crop. Open sides makes it easy to maintain the garden. Remember that better air movement through the garden can mean fewer pest and disease problems, too! Although the system is simple, successful growing is based on careful planning and preparation, since everything is growing so fast! A 4' x 8' garden might hold 20-30 small bushes, using one or two 1000 watt lamps with horizontal reflectors. Two or three 16" oscillating fans move air through the garden towards a "Dayton" 465 CFM or 550 CFM exhaust fan, which carries the hot air away from the garden. A 20 to 30 gallon reservoir under the flood table holds the nutrient solution. A "Little Giant" (1 AT) water pump in the reservoir moves the food up through a short length of 1/2" polyhose to a "bulk head" fitting in the table. The nutrient mix is pumped up into the table until the cubes are completely watered (usually under 1O minutes), then the pump is shut off and nutrients drain back to the reservoir. Use an air pump (4.2 PSI air pressure ) with 2" or 3 12" air stones to aerate the nutrient solution in the reservoir. FLOOD TABLE ASSEMBLY Irrigation and drainage: A single 3/4" poly hose supplies nutrients from the reservoir to the plants on the flood table. Drill a 1" hole in the flood table, in one of the flat areas on the bottom of the tray (and through the plywood support for the table). Insert a 3/4" bulkhead fitting (thru- hull) through the hole, with the threaded end pointing down. (use 2 washers- one on the inside of the tray, and one underneath). Tighten the bulkhead nut onto the bulkhead securely. Push one end of the 3/4" poly hose onto the bulkhead fitting, and connect the other end of the hose to the pump in the reservoir. Shorten the hose if necessary to avoid crimping or bending the hose. Fill the reservoir with nutrient solution, plug in the pump and flood the table to check for leaks. Check where the bulkhead is connected to the table, and where the 3/4" hose fits on the bulkhead. When the pump is shut off, the nutrient solution should drain back to the reservoir.

Gardening With The 'Flood and Drain' Systems Flood tables. are ideal for intensive, high-yield cultivation of short crops (plants to one meter tall). We'll describe the use of this system with 4" 'Grodan' rockwool blocks, but gardeners have used other grow mediums (hydro-corn in net pots for example) successfully too. The main differences in using hydro-corn are in frequency of irrigation and in use of an opaque cover. For the table (6mil. black and white poly works fine) to protect roots growing out of the net pots from the heat and light of the lamps. Let's look at a typical cycle of crop production using the flood table. We'll consider the three stages of growth on this table: the transition stage associated with transplanting cuttings into the 4" cubes, the "green growth" stage, and crop production stage. TRANSITION STAGE During this growth stage, rooted cuttings or seedlings growing in small rockwool cubes (mm 40-40 'Grodan' cubes) are transplanted to prepared 4" Grodan rockwool blocks and placed on the table. The purpose of this stage is:

To develop new roots into the larger blocks. To allow the plants to gradually adjust to 'green growth' conditions. Remember that we are dealing with very young plants. They have small root systems in the starter cubes; they've been growing under low light levels they've had very mild fertilizers and low levels of air movement. CONDITION STAGE Our goal is to progress as quickly as possible in conditioning the transplants to handle the intense growing conditions of their 'green growth' stage by gradually increasing light levels, nutrient strength, etc. It is important to make the transition stage go smoothly, with no set-backs to the crop. This is a good time to develop "two-way communication" with your plants. Of course plants can't talk, but they do use 'body language'! Growers who learn to recognize the signals plants give off will garden very successfully. For example, if you raise light levels to the crop by moving lamps closer, you'll watch plants closely to see their reaction. If they all wilt, raise the lamps back to their original height and try again when they have better root systems established. Dealing with living things can be very challenging, but once you know your crop's likes and dislikes, it will be easier each time you repeat this stage. Transition Stage - Activities 1. Prepare the reservoir: Use 20-30 gallons of water in reservoir. Mix a mild 'green growth' fertilizer solution: (Nutrient strength 600-800 PPM; pH 6-7) Temperature 21C = 70F Connect air stones to air pump with clear air hose, place stones in fertilizer reservoir and plug in the air pump to aerate nutrient solution. If reservoir is cold (e.g. sitting on concrete floor) use an aquarium heater in the solution to maintain proper nutrient temperature 68 - 72. 2. Transplant into 4" blocks: Prepare 4" Grodan blocks using PL 4.5 water solution. Soak 24 hours, rinse well. Remove protective plastic wrappers from small (mm40-40) propagation cubes and plant into the large holes of the 4" blocks. Leave wrappers on 4" blocks. Put plants onto table, spacing them evenly. 3. Feed the plants: Turn on the pump and flood the table to soak cubes with nutrients (about 10-15 minutes). Shut off pump to drain the table 4. Set up lighting: A single 1000 watt lamp and reflector gives adequate light for 20-30 new transplants. Position lamp about one meter above plants. Turn on lamp and monitor temperature closely. Best temperature for new transplants: 23C = 75F. 5. Establish air movement above plants: A single 16" oscillating fan will do for these young plants. Do not blow air directly onto plants! You'll overwork their small root systems! Set up oscillating fan 2 - 3 feet (up to one meter) away from table. Raise fan on stand so air is moving above the transplants. Leave fan running 24 hours a day. 6. Set up exhaust fan: Use exhaust fan at far end of garden from oscillating fans. Run exhaust fan 24 hours a day. 7. Hang or mount thermometer at top of plants:

Watch temperature closely. Maintain 23C - 75F during light cycle. 8. Shut off Lamps after 18 Hours of Lighting: maintain cooler temperature during the 6 hour dark period: (18C = 65F best.) 9. Maintain moderate growing conditions: Monitor progress of your crops as you gradually increase light levels, food strength, etc. Signs that plants are adapting to new conditions are: Increased root growth into 4" blocks. . Roots start to grow out bottom of 4" blocks. New top growth and branching. within 7-10 days, your crop should be actively growing in full light levels, with full food strength (16001800 PPM) green growth fertilizer mix. You are now into green growth stage! Properly watered new transplants likely won't need irrigation for 2-3 days or longer! If plants look healthy and rockwool is still damp, don't water or feed! GREEN GROWTH STAGE 1. Establish good growing conditions: Lighting: One or two 1000 watt lamps with horizontal reflectors - directly over the crop, about 18 inches ( .5 meter ) above the plants. Exact lamp height above the plants is determined by temperature. Position a thermometer so it's level with the top of the plants, then raise or lower lamps until the thermometer shows the correct growing temperature (30C - 85F). Nutrients: Nutrient strength 1600-1800 PPM (parts per million). -pH: 5.5-6.5 Nutrient temperature: 21C = 70F.; Air Movement: Use two 16" oscillating fans to move fresh air through the garden. Position the fans about .5 meter (about 18" to 24" away from the table, and direct air flow through the garden towards the exhaust fan. Use oscillating and exhaust fans 24 hours a day. Watering and Feeding: Don't overwater! Most crops will only need to be fed once every 2 - 3 days. If plants look healthy and rockwool is still damp, don't irrigate your crop yet! Your nutrient solution was started at the beginning of the transition stage, and you've added more nutrients to increase food strength to 1600-1800 PPM. Drain and replace nutrients after 17 days. Monitor plant health and height: Check underside of leaves for signs of spider mites and eggs. Check every plant! Use 'sticky cards' to check for signs of flying insects. Handle pest problems immediately! -Raise lamps as crops grow to maintain correct temperature (30C 85F). -When plants reach 10" -12" (.3 meter), consider changing to crop production stage. CROP PRODUCTION STAGE 1. Summer (Long Day) crops: For 'long day' crops such as miniature roses, basil, bush tomatoes Continue 18 hour days, 30C temperature. Change to 'flowering and crop production' fertilizer mix

Nutrient strength: 1200 -1400 PPM. 2. Autumn (Short Day) Crops: For 'short day' crops such as chrysanthemums, poinsettias: Reduce 'daytime' temperature to 27C = 80F. Gradually reduce light hours to shorten day length from 18 to 12 hours. Use 'autumn' light (high pressure sodium, 'compatible' sodium lamps). Change to flower nutrients formula. 'Dark period' temperature: 15-1 8C (60-65F). DRIP SYSTEMS RECOVERY / NON-RECOVERY

Drip systems are probably the most widely used type of hydroponic system in the world. Operation is simple, a timer controls a submersed pump. The timer turns the pump on and nutrient solution is dripped onto the base of each plant by a small drip line. In a Recovery Drip System the excess nutrient solution that runs off is collected back in the reservoir for re-use. The Non-Recovery System does not collect the run off. A recovery system uses nutrient solution a bit more efficiently, as excess solution is reused, this also allows for the use of a more inexpensive timer because a recovery system doesn't require precise control of the watering cycles. The non-recovery system needs to have a more precise timer so that watering cycles can be adjusted to insure that the plants get enough nutrient solution and the runoff is kept to a minimum. The non-recovery system requires less maintenance due to the fact that the excess nutrient solution isn't recycled back into the reservoir, so the nutrient strength and pH of the reservoir will not vary. This means that you can fill the reservoir with pH adjusted nutrient solution and then forget it until you need to mix more. A recovery system can have large shifts in the pH and nutrient strength levels that require periodic checking and adjusting. N.F.T. (Nutrient Film Technique)

This is the kind of hydroponic system most people think of when they think about hydroponics. N.F.T. systems have a constant flow of nutrient solution so no timer required for the submersible pump. The nutrient solution is pumped into the growing tray (usually a tube) and flows over the roots of the plants, and then drains back into the reservoir. There is usually no growing medium used other than air, which saves the expense of replacing the growing medium after every crop. Normally the plant is supported in a small plastic basket with the roots dangling into the nutrient solution. N.F.T. systems are very susceptible to power outages and pump failures. The roots dry out very rapidly when the flow of nutrient solution is interrupted. Additional Information Flat bottom tray promotes most efficient gas exchange by roots Eliminates nutrient "pooling" and stagnation Use of net pot allows easy transplant of rooted cuttings or seedlings using rockwool cubes Roots establish quickly - No transplant shock

The N.F.T. system that's drawing these rave reviews is simplicity itself: crop roots grow in covered trays, with nutrients slowly flowing along the bottom of the tray. Some of the roots grow down into the food and water solution; while other roots are in the air space above, where they take in oxygen and breath out waste gases. The new N.F.T. systems have been improved over the years from the original concept, and they promise to provide simple, productive gardening for commercial and hobby growers more interested in results than in fighting with complicated, fussy growing systems. The evolution of N.F.T. systems is interesting because it's a story typical of gardening today: a good idea that became a practical gardening technique through years of testing and refinements. The original N.F.T. system used sheets of polyethylene film, folded to enclose the roots and stems of the plants. But the loose sheets of plastic caused all sorts of problems - pools of fertilizer formed in wrinkles in the plastic, flooding the root system and causing root disease problems. The sheets of plastic collapsed against the plant stems, keeping fresh air out of the root zone. Growers tried to control this problem by using suspension wires everywhere - holding up the loose plastic, and supporting the stems. And roots formed a shallow, dense mat in the narrow channels, flooding the crops. And the original design allowed only a very thin film of nutrients - about 1/25 of an inch deep - to flow down the rows, since the root systems themselves were so shallow. Any greater depth to the nutrient flow would drown the roots. Controlling the depth of the nutrient flow was crucial -and fussy. But the simplicity of the N.F.T. system inspired changes and improvements: a capillary mat was placed directly under the roots to provide reserves of nutrients and water, in case the pump stopped working. There were still problems with the system, though - the roots continued to grow as a shallow, dense mat along the capillary matting, limiting oxygen uptake and causing a build-up of waste gases and other organic products from the roots. Now, N.F.T. systems have evolved again, and the new systems have retained the basic qualities of N.F.T.its simplicity and great crop potential while eliminating some of the design flaws of the "pioneer" systems. The latest N.F.T. systems use net pots, set into covers over a flat-bottomed, ribbed tray made of solid plastic for stability. This creates a much greater depth of roots, eliminating many of the problems of previous systems. Now crop roots can have lots of air as well as nutrients without the fussing of the early systems. The first advantage to the grower is that he can start his seedlings or cuttings in small rockwool blocks, transplanting the rockwool to the mesh pots (lined with hydrocorn) with no root damage or transplant shock. After transplanting, the roots grow quickly out of the rockwool, through the hydrocorn and down into the nutrient solution. Once the root system is well-established, the gardener can simply turn

the lid upside-sown to raise the net pot higher in the tray, allowing the roots to grow through an air space and down into the nutrients again. Some of the roots will grow happily into the food and water, while some roots will remain in the moist air, taking up oxygen. The biggest improvement is in the greater depth of the root system, compared with the thick dense mat of roots that grew in the old N.F.T. trays. The extra depth of the root zone helps in supplying lots of oxygen to the plants and allowing waste gases to escape more easily. The depth of the roots also allows more flexibility to the gardener in the depth of the nutrient solution; when roots were forced to grow as a shallow, dense mat in the old systems, the depth of the nutrient flow was limited severely: a millimeter too high and the roots drowned; a millimeter too low and the roots dried out. Because all the roots were squeezed into a thin, dense mat, it was very common to discover 'fertilizer burn' problems when nutrient salt crystals formed in the log jam of roots in the bottom of the tray. This added root depth in the new systems will prove to be the breakthrough for N.F.T. hobby systems, allowing gardeners to take advantage of this simple, productive method of gardening.

A key to success in intensive gardening is crop accessibility: you must be able to reach every plant easily. Since achieving high crop yields requires straight ahead, problem-free growth, growers must avoid stress, disease and pest problems and ensure that the best possible growing conditions are in place. If plants are difficult or impossible to reach, pests can multiply and invade the entire garden. Litter from dead leaves also acts as a breeding ground for insects and plant diseases. Uneven growing conditions can also complicate gardening and produce unsatisfactory yields. Growers can handle both these requirements - plant accessibility and even growing conditions - by placing their NFT systems in open areas rather than in a corner of a room. This allows the gardener to walk complete around the garden and to have easy access to all his plants. Growers can clean the garden, move plants as required, and check throughout the garden for stress, disease or pest problems. Establishing even-growing conditions in a garden is much easier when the system is set up in an open location. Air flow through the garden is even and uninterrupted, avoiding the problems of air turbulence, heat and humidity buildups, and increased risk of disease and pests found where gardens are shoved into a corner. One innovation that has helped growers to take advantage of an open location for their gardens is the highefficiency horizontal reflector. Since these reflectors work so well at directing the light directly down onto the crop, no light is lost to the sides of the crop and reflective walls - and corner placement of the system are unnecessary. SYSTEM LAYOUT

Stands For proper drainage, it is essential that NFT trays are higher than the reservoir that supplies their nutrients. Gardeners must consider the height of their ceilings and allow for future growth when deciding on the height of their trays. Allow for enough space above the trays for crops to reach maximum size without crowding the lamps. In a room with a standard 8' ceiling, for example, maximum height from the crop would be only 3 feet, even with the NFT trays placed directly over the reservoir. Gardening in a lowceilinged room or mounting the NFT trays higher will reduce maximum height more, so plan the set-up of your NFT garden carefully to avoid 'cooking' your crops. Irrigation

Since plant roots grow in a covered NFT tray, and are irrigated by a shallow, slow-flowing nutrient solution, good aeration of the fertilizer mix is essential for fast healthy growth. Using air pumps with air stones in the reservoir and trays will help; irrigating with misters will ensure that plant roots receive wellaerated nutrient solutions for maximum uptake of minerals. Maintaining healthy roots is important, since disease can spread from plant to plant when crops 'share' fertilizer solutions. Although gardeners can use a variety of methods to irrigate their NFT crops, use of the 360 misters is recommended when excellent aeration of the nutrient solution is required. Four or five misters per tray works great! Drill a 5/8" size hole in the side of one tray, near one end (and near the top of the tray, to avoid leaking!) Put a 1/2" poly hose through the hole, and plug the end of the hose in the tray with a 1/2" end plug. Now punch a series of small holes - with an awl or ice-pick - and insert the 360 misters. Turn the hose so the misters are pointing straight down into the tray, then connect the other end of the hose to your pump. To irrigate several trays from ones" hose, drill two holes in each tray so the 1/2" hose can go right through all the trays in a straight line. Insert misters, plug the end of the hose, and hook up the pump. HINT: An in-line flow rate valve allows you to fine-tune the amount of nutrient flow to your trays. Be sure your trays are sloped slightly so nutrients will flow down the tray to the drainage bulkhead. Keep trays level side-to-side so the fertilizer solution flows evenly down the entire width of the tray, not just down one side of the tray.

At the far end of the tray from the irrigation hose, drill a 1" hole in the bottom of the tray, insert a 3/4" bulkhead fitting and connect 3/4" poly hose to the through-hull fitting to return the nutrient mix to the reservoir. To drain several trays, use 3/4" tees to join the drain lines from the bulkheads into a single drain hose.

Roots require oxygen to live! Since the nutrient solution is slowly flowing along the tray, aerating the nutrients is very important to good growth and health of N.F.T. crops. Use a good air pump, hose and air stones to bubble your reservoir. Be sure to allow an air space above the flow of nutrients for roots to breath. Some growers will place air stones in the N.F.T. trays to be sure that roots can have adequate supplies of oxygen for gas exchange. Remember that good air in the root zone helps plants take up nutrients faster and easier! Use a low flow rate for your nutrients about one to two liters a minute is the maximum recommended flow. I hope your supplier has tiny pumps in stock! Too fast a flow causes poor growth and disease problems. Use an open reservoir to allow waste gases to escape from the nutrients. (Be sure to keep your reservoir out of direct light to avoid algae and heat build-up problems.)

Temperature, PH and nutrient strength are very important considerations for your nutrient solution, since the fertilizer will be flowing directly under the bare roots of your crop. HINT: the larger the volume of your reservoir, the more stable the solution, against variations in PH and food strength. The smaller the reservoir, the more rapid the shifts in nutrient quality. Considering the potential for great crop yields from this system, it's worthwhile to give N.F.T. a fair test by keeping light levels, temperature and air movement correct. The tray-cover-net pot system shown here is now available. A ten-foot tray and cover with end caps, 20 net pots and hydro-corn comes complete for approximately $75.00 (pump, reservoir and fittings are not included). Good luck with your new, improved N.F.T. system!

AEROPONIC

The aeroponic system is probably the most high-tech type of hydroponic gardening. Like the N.F.T. system above the growing medium is primarily air. The roots hang in the air and are misted with nutrient solution. The mistings are usually done every few minutes. Because the roots are exposed to the air like the N.F.T. system, the roots will dry out rapidly if the misting cycles are interrupted. A timer controls the nutrient pump much like other types of hydroponic systems, except the aeroponic system needs a short cycle timer that runs the pump for a few seconds every couple of minutes.

HAND-WATERED BUCKET
Simple and inexpensive, this very basic and easy to build system will still deliver impressive results. The series of holes that ring the bucket are about 1 1/2" inches above the bottom. This makes a small reservoir of nutrient solution that will be wicked up to the plants roots by the capillary action of the growing medium. Perfect for large plants, it can easily handle a single tomato or pepper plant or do equally as well with a couple of smaller plants like lettuce or herbs. NOTE: With large plants you may need to supply external support to help hold the plant upright.

MATERIALS REQUIRED 5 GALLON BUCKET - The Professor favors straight Perlite or a Perlite / Vermiculite mix for this system, however there is a vast variety of growing mediums that will work well. For more information about growing medium CLICK HERE. FIBERGLASS WINDOW SCREEN (optional) - A small amount of window screen is handy to put over the overflow holes that you must drill in the bucket, this helps keep the growing medium from falling out. HYDROPONIC FERTILIZER * - A good quality hydroponic fertilizer is required. Fertilizers made for soil do not contain essential micro-nutrients. For more information about the differences in hydroponic and soil fertilizers CLICK HERE. pH TEST KIT *- Very important:You will need to check and adjust the pH of your nutrient solution. ASSEMBLY OF SYSTEM Drill a series of holes in a CLEAN plastic bucket approximately 1 1/2" (4 cm) above the bottom of the bucket. The number and size of the holes is not critical, usually 6 to 10 holes (3/8" or 1/2" in diameter) is enough. NOTE: Holes smaller than 3/8" seem to plug up easily. The larger the hole, the more likely that you will need step #2 below. Very large holes will dry out the growing medium quickly. Optional: From the inside of the bucket place window screen over holes. You can hold the screen in place as you add the growing medium, or you can glue the screen in place with a small amount of silicone sealant. Wait for silicone to cure before adding growing medium. NOTE: The screen is just to keep the growing medium from falling out. If you don't mind a little mess, or if your holes are relatively small, or your growing medium stays together well, you can skip this step. Add the growing medium to the bucket. NOTE: Depending on the type of growing medium that you are using you will need to wash and / or pre-soak the growing medium before adding to the system. Plant your seedling, rooted cutting or seed in the growing medium. The Professor recommends starting your seeds separately and then adding the seedlings to the system. CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS Hand Water Version Mix your nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check pH and adjust accordingly. The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant and the kind of growing medium An easy way to mix the nutrient is to use a one gallon milk jug and mix a gallon at a time. It can be convenient to mix more than a gallon at a time using another 5 gallon bucket or similar plastic container

(do not use clear containers or you will get algae). If you mix large amounts at a time it is necessary to aerate the surplus nutrient solution with an aquarium type air pump and air stone to keep it from stagnating. Storage container should have a loose fitting lid to keep out debris. Slowly add the pH adjusted nutrient solution to the bucket until you see some excess flow out of the overflow holes (about 10-15%). Repeat step #6 periodically as needed. This will vary due to weather conditions and the size and type of plant(s). Knowing when and how much to water requires a little trial and error. CARE AND FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS Automated Version Fill the reservoir with water and mix your nutrient solution as per the instructions on the fertilizer package. Check pH and adjust accordingly. The required pH value will vary depending on the requirements of the plant and the kind of growing medium. Attach the drip line to the submersible pump and put the pump into the reservoir. Plug the pump into the timer. Set the timer and plug it into the outlet. NOTE: You will need a short cycle timer that can be set for short periods of time. A digital timer from a home center usually will work as they can be set to come on for as little as one minute. A good starting point to set the timer is to come on for one minute once or twice a day. Put the drip line so that the nutrient solution runs out at the base of the plant. What is "growing medium"? Growing medium is the material in which the roots of the plant are growing. This covers a vast variety of substances which include Rockwool, perlite, vermiculite, coconut fiber, gravel, sand and many more. The growing medium is an inert substance that doesn't supply any nutrition to the plants. All the nutrition comes from the nutrient solution (water and fertilizer combined). You can therefore, easily control everything the plants receive. The strength and pH of the nutrient solution is easy to adjust so that the plants receive just the right amount of food. The watering/feeding cycles can be controlled by an inexpensive timer so that the plants get watered on schedule, as needed. What is the difference between hydroponic, organic and "regular" fertilizers? Both hydroponic fertilizers and those intended for use in soil contain the three major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The major difference in hydroponic fertilizers is that they contain the proper amounts of all the essential micro-nutrients which fertilizers intended for use with soil do not. The plants are expected to find these elements in the soil, assuming that the trace elements are in fact present. Problems can arise for the plants if any or all of the micro-nutrients are not present in the soil or are depleted by successive (or excessive) plantings. Hydroponic fertilizers are usually in a more refined form with fewer impurities making them both more stable and soluble for better absorption. Organic fertilizers, in most cases, are very different than either hydroponic or soil fertilizers both in composition and how they deliver the nutrient to the plants. Organic fertilizers rely on the synergistic action of bacteria and microbes to break down nutritional substances for easier uptake by the plants. Hydroponic and soil fertilizers provide nutrients in a ready-to-use form. While once, they were mutually exclusive, in recent years a number of outstanding organic fertilizers have hit the market in formulations refined enough for use in hydroponics. For more information click on the excellent article below.

"Hydroponic or Organic-What's the Difference?" by Roger H. Thayer What are micro-nutrients? The micro-nutrients, also known as trace elements that are required for healthy plant growth are calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, cobalt, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc. When deficient in any or all of these elements plants suffer stress, disease, become more susceptible to pest, fungus' and bacteria, and may have uptake issues with the N-P-K fertilizer they are being fed. At best, they will never live up to their genetic potential in growth and yield; at worst, they die. In the case of food crops, nutrient deficient plants lead to nutrient deficiencies in the people and animals who consume them. Due to years of over farming the same fields much of today's commercially produced food has a nutrient level barely exceeding waxed fruit. No surprise that more and more people are choosing to grow the food their families eat in their own gardens. When growing in soil remember to renew the dirt between plantings and when growing hydroponically know that it is absolutely essential to use a hydroponic fertilizer that provides all the trace elements. How complicated is hydroponic gardening? It can be but it doesnt have to be. Hydroponics can be as incredibly simple as growing a single plant in a hand watered bucket or nursery pot, using any number of inert growing mediums. No automation, electricity or grow lights required. Of course, the potential to go high tech is limited only by your imagination and budget. Virtually every aspect of garden management can be automated and should you so desire, monitored and controlled with your laptop or cell phone from the other side of the world. Dare to dream. Most hobby oriented hydroponic systems are somewhere between the two extremes mentioned above. The average, home hydroponic system usually consists of a few basic parts: a growing tray, a reservoir, a submersible pump to water the plants, a simple timer and an air pump and air stone to oxygenate the nutrient solution. Of course, light (either natural or artificial) is also required. Is pH important in hydroponics? The control of pH is extremely important, not only in hydroponics but in soil as well. Plants lose the ability to absorb different nutrients when the pH varies. (This topic is answered in much greater detail in the "mini-class" on pH in Hydroponics). The ability to quickly and easily test and control pH in hydroponics is a major advantage over dirt gardening, where testing and adjusting the pH is much more complicated and time consuming.pH Although it is perhaps one of the most overlooked aspects, pH is very important in hydroponic and organic as well as regular soil gardening. pH is measured on a scale of 1-14 with 7 being neutral. Acids are lower than 7 and alkalis (bases) are above 7. This article deals with the pH of hydroponic gardening and the availability of nutrients at different pH levels in a soilless growing medium. Organic and soil gardening have different levels, so the following chart doesn't pertain to them. To be technical, the term pH refers to the potential hydrogen-hydroxyl ion content of a solution. Solutions ionize into positive and negative ions. If the solution has more hydrogen (positive) ions than hydroxyl (negative) ions then it is an acid (1-6.9 on the pH scale). Conversely if the solution has more hydroxyl ions than hydrogen it is alkaline (or base), with a range of 7.1-14 on the pH scale.

Pure water has a balance of hydrogen (H+) and hydroxyl (OH-) ions and is therefore pH neutral (pH 7). When the water is less than pure it can have a pH either higher or lower than 7. The pH scale is logarithmic, which means that each unit of change equals a tenfold change in the hydrogen/hydroxyl ion concentration. To put it another way, a solution with a pH of 6.0 is 10 times more acidic than a solution with a value of pH 7.0, and a solution with a pH value of 5.0 would be 10 times more acidic than the solution of 6.0 pH and 100 times more acidic than the solution with a 7.0 pH. This means that when you are adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution and you need to move it 2 points (example: 7.5 to 5.5) you would have to use 10 times more adjuster than if you were moving the pH value just 1 point (7.5 to 6.5). WHY IS pH IMPORTANT? When the pH is not at the proper level the plant will lose its ability to absorb some of the essential elements required for healthy growth. For all plants there is a particular pH level that will produce optimum results (see chart 1 below). This pH level will vary from plant to plant, but in general most plants prefer a slightly acid growing environment (between 5.5-6.0), although most plants can still survive in an environment with a pH of between 5.0 and 7.5. When pH rises above 6.5 some of the nutrients and micro-nutrients begin to precipitate out of solution and can stick to the walls of the reservoir and growing chambers. For example: Iron will be about half precipitated at the pH level of 7.3 and at about 8.0 there is virtually no iron left in solution at all. In order for your plants to use the nutrients they must be dissolved in the solution. Once the nutrients have precipitated out of solution your plants can no longer absorb them and will suffer deficiency and death if left uncorrected. Some nutrients will precipitate out of solution when the pH drops also. Chart 2 (below) will give you an idea of what happens to availability some of the nutrients at different pH levels:
Chart 2 pH Values For Different Hydroponic Crops (From Hydroponic Food Production by Howard M. Resh Woodbridge Press, 1987) Plant Beans Broccoli Cabbage Cantaloupe Carrots Chives Cucumbers Garlic Lettuce Onions Peas Pineapple Pumpkin Radish Strawberries Tomatoes pH Range 6.0-6.5 6.0-6.5 6.5-7.5 6.5-6.8 5.8-6.4 6.0-6.5 5.8-6.0 6.0-6.5 6.0-6.5 6.5-7.0 6.0-6.8 5.0-5.5 5.0-6.5 6.0-7.0 5.5-6.5 5.5-6.5 Availability Of Nutrients Available At Different pH Levels

NOTE: This chart is for soiless (hydroponic) gardening only and does not apply to organic or dirt gardening.

CHECKING pH When you are growing hydroponically checking and adjusting pH is a simple matter. It can be a bit more complicated when growing organically or in soil. There are several ways to check the pH of the nutrient solution in your hydroponic system. Paper test strips are probably the most inexpensive way to check the pH of the nutrient solution. These paper strips are impregnated with a pH sensitive dye which changes color when dipped into the nutrient solution. The paper strip is then compared to a color chart to determine the pH level of the solution being checked. These test strips are inexpensive, but they can be hard to read, because the colors differences are subtle. Liquid pH test kits are probably the most popular method to check pH for the hobby gardener. These liquid test kits work by adding a few drops of a pH sensitive dye to a small amount of the nutrient solution and then comparing the color of the resulting liquid with a color chart. While slightly more expensive than the paper test strips, they are easier to read and extremely accurate and reliable. The Most high-tech way to check pH is to use the digital meters. These meters come in a huge array of sizes and prices. The most popular type of pH meter for the hobby gardener is the digital pen. These pens are manufactured by several different companies and are very handy and easy to use. You simply dip the electrode into the nutrient solution for a few moments and the pH value is displayed on an LCD screen. The pH meters are very accurate (when properly calibrated) and fast. They need to cared for properly however, or they will quit working. The glass bulb electrode must be kept clean and some are required to be wet at all times. The pH meters are actually very sensitive volt meters and are susceptible to problems with the electrode. The pH meters are slightly temperature sensitive. Many of the pH meters on the market have Automatic Temperature Compensation (ATC), which corrects the reading with respect to temperature. On meters without ATC the pH should be checked at the same time of day each time in order to minimize any temperature related fluctuations. The pH meters usually need to be calibrated frequently, as the meters can drift and to insure accuracy you must check calibration often. With most pens, the tip needs to be stored in an electrode storage solution or in a buffer solution and should never be allowed to dry out. Due to the fact that pH meters have a reputation of breaking down without warning it is a good idea to keep an emergency backup for checking pH (paper test strips or a liquid pH test kit), just in case. ADJUSTING pH There are several chemicals used by the hobby gardener to adjust pH. The most popular are phosphoric acid (to lower pH) and potassium hydroxide (to raise pH). Both of these chemicals are relatively safe, although they can cause burns and should never come in contact with the eyes. Most hydroponic supply stores sell pH adjusters that are diluted to a level that is reasonably safe and easy to use. Concentrated adjusters can cause large pH changes and can make adjusting the pH very frustrating. Several other chemicals can be used to adjust the pH of hydroponic nutrient solutions. Nitric acid and sulfuric acid can be used to lower pH but are much more dangerous than phosphoric acid. Food grade citric acid is sometimes used in organic gardening to lower pH. Always add the nutrients to the water before checking and adjusting the pH of your solution. The fertilizer will usually lower the pH of the water due to its chemical makeup. After adding nutrient and mixing the solution, check the pH using whatever method you chose. If the pH needs to be adjusted, add the appropriate adjuster. Use small amounts of pH adjuster until you get familiar with the process. Recheck the

pH and repeat the above steps until the pH level is where you want it to be. Once you have done this a few times, you'll nail it the first try. Beyond all the facts and figures, this critical step is truly simple and easy. The pH of the nutrient solution will have a tendency to go up as the plants use the nutrients. As a result the pH needs to be checked periodically and adjusted if necessary. To start out, I suggest that you check pH on a daily basis. Each system will change pH at a different rate depending on a variety of factors. The type of growing medium used, the weather, the kind of plants and even the age of the plants all effect the pH variations. GROWING MEDIUM by Professor Hydro There are probably hundreds of different kinds of growing medium, anything that a plant can grow in is considered a growing medium. There are manmade as well as organic (natural) mediums. Even plain old AIR can be an effective growing environment for roots. I have been asked many times what growing medium is the best. This is like asking what is the best color? Or what is the best kind of vehicle to own. Sometimes the answer depends on the job you need it to do. You wouldn't try to use a soiless mix in an Aeroponic system and you don't plow a field with a Rolls Royce limousine. However, if you want to build a Non-Recovery Drip hydroponic system then the soiless mix would be an excellent choice, and a John Deere tractor can handle the field (save the Rolls for a night on the town, pick me up at 8). What I'm trying to say, is that the best growing medium for your purpose depends on many variables. The type of system you are using, what kind of crop you are growing and local environment are just some of the many determining factors involved when choosing a growing medium. There may be several mediums that will work equally well for your particular needs. Many times it boils down to availability, price or personal preference. I have listed the most popular types of growing mediums below, click on the name to view details about the general use, advantages and disadvantages, and particular characteristics of the specified growing medium.
Oasis cubes Coconut Fiber Perlite Vermiculite Soilless Mix(s) Expanded Clay Pellets Sand Sphagnum Moss Fiberglass Insulation Air Rockwool Gravel Water Saw Dust Lava Rock

Oasis cubes

These lightweight pre-formed cubes are designed for propagation. A very popular medium for use when growing from seed or from cuttings. This product has a neutral pH and retains water very well. The cubes are meant to be a starter medium and come in three sizes up to 2" x 2". They can be easily transplanted into practically any kind of hydroponic system or growing medium (or into soil). Coconut Fiber

Coconut fiber is rapidly becoming one of the most popular growing mediums in the world. In fact it may soon be THE most popular. It is the first totally "organic" growing medium that offers top performance in hydroponic systems. Coconut fiber is essentially a waste product of the coconut industry, it is the powdered husks of the coconut itself. There are many advantages - it maintains a larger oxygen capacity than rockwool, yet also has superior water holding ability than rockwool which is a real advantage for hydroponic systems that have intermittent watering cycles. Coconut fiber is also high in root stimulating hormones and offers some protection against root diseases including fungus infestation. Dutch growers have found that a mixture of 50% coconut fiber and 50% expanded clay pellets is the perfect growing medium. One word of caution about coconut fiber, you must be careful when you purchase coconut fiber. There is a commonly available, lower grade of coconut fiber that is high in sea-salt and is very fine grained. This lower grade coconut fiber will lead to disappointing results when used in a hydroponic system. Perlite

Good old perlite! It's been around for years, mainly for use as a soil additive to increase aeration and draining of the soil. Perlite is a mined material, a form of volcanic glass that when rapidly heated to more than 1600 deg. f. it pops much like popcorn as the water vaporizes and makes countless tiny bubbles. Perlite is one of the best hydroponic growing mediums around. Used by itself or as a mixture with other mediums. Perlite is commonly used with vermiculite ( a 50 - 50 mix is a very popular medium), and is also one of the major ingredients of soiless mix's. perlite has good wicking action which makes it a good choice for wick-type hydroponic systems. Perlite is also relatively inexpensive. The biggest drawback to perlite is that it doesn't retain water well which means that it will dry out quickly between waterings. The dust from perlite is bad for your health so you should wear a dust mask when handling it. Vermiculite

Vermiculite is another mined material. In it's natural state it resembles mica rock, but when quickly heated it expands due to the generation of interlaminar steam.

Vermiculite is most frequently used in conjunction with perlite as the two complement each other well. Vermiculite retains moisture (about 200% - 300% by weight), and perlite doesn't so you can balance your growing medium so that it retains water and nutrients well but still supplies the roots with plenty of oxygen. A 50/50 mix of vermiculite and perlite is a very popular medium for drip type hydroponic systems as well as ebb and flow systems. Vermiculite is inexpensive. The major drawback of vermiculite is that it retains too much water to be used by itself. It can suffocate the roots of plants if used straight. Soilless Mix(s) There are many kinds of soiless mix's containing a vast assortment of ingredients. Most contain things like Spaghnam moss, Perlite and Vermiculite. These kind of growing medium are usually considered organic and are frequently used for container gardening wick systems and on-recovery drip systems. They can be used in recovery systems, however most of these mixes have some very fine particles that can clog pumps and drip emitters if you don't use a good filtration system (NOTE: The professor says that you can use panty hose as a filter, use on the return line and on the pump inlet to filter out the fine particles). Most soiless mixes retain water well and have great wicking action while still holding a good amount of air, making them a good growing medium for a variety of hydroponic and organic gardens. Hydrophonics Fertilizers How to Make Organic Hydroponic Nutrients The only major difference between regular hydroponics and organic hydroponics is the fertilizer used. Since hydroponic systems dont produce any weeds and are typically used in greenhouses or indoor grow rooms, there is no need for herbicides or pesticides in any hydroponic system. The 2 ways organic hydroponic nutrients are produced is through the making of compost tea or aquaponics.

Making Compost Tea Aquaponics is the mix of aquaculture (fish farming) and hydroponics.Essentially to make an aquaponic system, you put certain species of fish in your reservoir, and rather than adding nutrients to the water, you just feed the fish, and allow the water to become nutrient rich via fish crap. Aquaponics generally takes a relatively high level of testing and experience to be able to effectively use it, which is why most people use the more cost effective solution of making compost tea.

Compost tea is any kind of nutrient-rich organic matter absorbed into water. To make compost tea, first you should make compost, which is as easy as putting organic material such as leaves, grass, and kitchen scraps in a pile and allowing them to break down into a dark soil-like material. Once you have compost, dissolve let it sit in water for several days, stirring every day. Then use some kind of filter, such as an old t shirt, to collect the liquids and discard the solids. Once you have compost tea, simply add it to your reservoir. DIY Natural Hydroponic Fertilizer Growing organic plants hydroponically at home doesnt have to involve having a degree in chemistry or some huge fancy set-up. Once youve gotten your hydroponic started the only maintenance necessary is keeping nutrients flowing.

Learning how to make homemade hydroponic organic fertilizer is just as easy as baking a cake. Each of the following recipes gives exact amounts of nutrients and ratios to mix with water. The first recipe is comprised of nutrients that can be found at local nurseries or hydroponic grow shops. This is a tweaked version of an industry standard mix that includes several trace elements. Organic Recipe One Traditional Recipe Combine the following five ingredients in the following amounts in a mixing bowl:

15 ounces superphosphate 10 ounces potassium sulphate 10 ounces sodium nitrate 10 ounces calcium nitrate 5 ounces magnesium sulphate

Mix them thoroughly and set the mixing bowl to the side. In a separate mixing bowl combine the following trace elements:

1 ounce iron sulphate 1 teaspoon boric acid powder 1 teaspoon manganese sulphate 1/2 teaspoon copper sulphate 1/2 teaspoon zinc sulphate

Mix thoroughly and then crush the trace elements with a mortar and pestle. Once the mix has been ground down into a fine powder dump the powder in to the first mixing bowl. Stir the two together until they become a homogeneous mix. This completes the fertilizer. Apply at a ratio of teaspoon per 100 gallons of water. Organic Recipe Two Gift From the Sea

This recipe is the simplest organic fertilizer that you could ever want to make. Seaweed is one of the most nutrient rich sources for plants on the planet. Creating a seaweed tea leaches the nutrients from the plant cells into a liquid form that can be utilized in a hydroponic system. Heres how its done. Wrap six ounces of seaweed in cheesecloth and tie it off with a piece of string. Soak this bag in a five gallon bucket, in the sun, for four to five days. Add five teaspoons of Epsom salt to the mix (one teaspoon per gallon) to add the trace elements missing from the seaweed. The entire five-gallon tea can be added to the hydroponic reservoir or it can be added in one-gallon increments. One gallon of tea will fertilize a 100-gallon set-up for two days. Organic Recipe Three Farmers Friend The third option for organic hydroponic fertilizer comes from a converted farmer that I spent a lot of time with as I learned the art of hydroponics. Being an old farmer he had his own fertilizer mix that he carried over from his traditional days. Heres what he did to make is usable in a hydroponic setting. Mix the following ingredients in a 5-gallon bucket: 4 pounds of seed meal 1 pound finely ground agricultural lime 1 pound gypsum 2 pounds dolomitic lime 1 pound of bone meal 1 pound kelp Fill the bucket with water and stir it until it creates a thin mix. This mix is used at a ratio of six ounces per 100 gallons of water. This recipe works best in a large scale system but can be scaled back as long as the ratios are kept the same. The mix can be left in powdered form and used at a teaspoon to 100 gallon ratio as well. Organic Recipe Four Compost Tea If you are one of the purists in the organic community and you like to reuse and recycle as well, this compost tea recipe is for you. All of these items are things that you probably have in your home (excluding aquarium water) and all you need is a nice spot in a secluded part of your yard. Create a compost heap or buy a composting bin and place it in an out of the way place. Add equal amounts of green and brown matter; green being grass clippings, vegetable scraps, green leaves, etc. brown being straw, dirt, dry yellow or brown leaves, paper and wood products, shredded newspaper, dryer lint or straw. Turn the heap every day for two to three weeks or until a nice compost has matured. Steep two large shovelfuls of compost in five gallons of water for three days. Distilled water is nice but aquarium water is even better (as long as it hasnt been chemically treated). This fertilizer will not be chemically consistent so the dosage will depend on the contents of your compost heap. This is more of a by feel fertilizer that can be added in various rates depending on how it works with your plants. A good place to start is one gallon of compost tea per 100 gallons of reservoir. Now that you know how to make homemade hydroponic organic fertilizer, get started with any of these recipes for your hydroponic set-up. It will be up to you to choose the one that best fits your particular growing needs.

Advance Nutrient Management To the skilled hydroponic grower, nutrient management represents an opportunity to enhance plant growth. To the novice, it represents a challenge to be dealt with. The difference is in knowledge, understanding and equipment. Consider the following questions to test your nutrient IQ: What temperature is your nutrient solution, what is the range during a day and during a season? What is the "dissolved solids" content of the water you use to mix your nutrient and does this content vary greatly from season to season? Does your water supplier provide you with good water from one reservoir at one time of the year and bad water from a different reservoir at another? Are there any components in your water that could affect the availability of nutrients to your crop? What is the "EC" or strength of your nutrient? Do you mix special nutrient blends for different kinds of plants and for each stage of the crop's lifecycle? Does the pH of your nutrient stay within a reasonable range? Are there any pathogens in your nutrient from a contaminated water supply or from sick plants that may spread disease to the rest of your crop? Do you change your nutrient often enough to prevent excesses from salt accumulation or deficiencies from nutrient exhaustion? Did you know that an important reason to change your nutrient solution is to eliminate the wastes your plants discard into the nutrient? Did you know that as plants transpire, moisture and nutrient levels drop in your reservoir and the EC or strength of the nutrient can rise to dangerous levels? These are only a few basic question that may help you better realize what you already know, and what you may need to learn to achieve outstanding crops every time. This discussion is especially for the advanced grower who wants to achieve the highest yields and is seriously interested in being at the leading edge of plant growing technology. Hobby growers generally don't have to worry about all of these questions, but don't stop reading just yet. When problems arise and a crop isn''t growing as well as it should. the problem can often be traced to nutrient management. Once you know what can go wrong, it's easier to recognize a problem when it happens.

The root environment is what separates hydroponics from soil cultivation. In soil, plants await rainfall or irrigation, and their roots search out essential nutrients. With good, fertile soil and abundant water plants thrive.

In hydroponics, the plant roots are constantly provided with water, oxygen and nutrients--no searching for available nutrients or waiting for the next rain. The challenge for the grower is to keep up with the plants' needs and to avoid damaging plants with excesses or deficiencies of minerals, extremes in pH and temperature, or a lack of oxygen. A few simple tools and techniques can make the difference between success and failure.

What's In Your Water? In hydroponics, the plant roots are constantly provided with water, oxygen and nutrients--no searching for available nutrients or waiting for the next rain. The challenge for the grower is to keep up with the plants' needs and to avoid damaging plants with excesses or deficiencies of minerals, extremes in pH and temperature, or a lack of oxygen. A few simple tools and techniques can make the difference between success and failure. So, what's in your water anyway? The most complete answer comes from having an analysis of your water done by a lab. If you're on a municipal water system, call your water district and request a copy of their most recent analysis.

Another approach - highly recommended - is to check your water regularly with a dissolved solids meter, also called an electrical conductivity (EC) or parts per million (PPM) meter. These instruments are one of the most important tools for a -grower to have and use regularly.

All of these instruments work in essentially the same way. They measure the electrical conductivity of the water. It is the dissolved salts in most water that allows it to conduct electricity. Pure water is a poor conductor since there are none of the conductive salts found in impure water. Purified water will show no, or very low, salt content (conductivity) when tested with a dissolved solids meter.

It is not uncommon to find high levels of salts in well water or municipal water supplies. Calcium and Magnesium carbonates are among the most common ingredients in tap water and in well water. In fact, water "hardness" is defined as a measure of the water's content of calcium and magnesium carbonates, or sulfates. Since calcium and magnesium are important plant nutrients. water with reasonable levels of these elements can be just fine for hydroponic cultivation. However, even a good thing can become a problem if the levels are too high.

Generally, a calcium content of more than 200 PPM, or 75 PPM for magnesium, are on the verge of excessive for most hydroponic applications. An excess can cause other important elements in the nutrient solution to "lock-out" and become unavailable. For example, excess calcium can bond with phosphorous to

make calcium phosphate, which is not very soluble and therefore not available to the crop. The key is to start with decent water and add the right combination of nutrients.

Too Hot, Too Cold Water temperature is another important factor. If your solution is too cold, seeds won't germinate, cuttings will not root and plants will grow slowly - or stop growing and die. If it's too hot, the same seeds won't germinate, cuttings won't root and plants will die from oxygen deficiency or simply from temperature stress. Most plants prefer a root zone temperature range of between 65 degrees (18C and 80 (27C) cooler for winter crops, warmer for tropical crops. When adding water to your reservoir, it is a good idea to allow it to come to the same temperature as the water in the reservoir. Remember, plant roots have evolved in a soil environment where temperature changes occur slowly, tempered by the thermal mass of the earth. Plants do not like rapid temperature changes, especially in the root zone!

Water pH A subject that is often discussed but rarely understood by many growers is nutrient pH. Generally, we worry about pH and its affect on nutrient availability. For example, if pH is too high, iron may become unavailable. Even though your nutrient solution may have an ideal iron content, your plants may not be able to absorb it, resulting in an iron deficiency: the plant's leaves will yellow and weaken. On the other hand, advanced hydroponic plant foods contain special "chelates" that are designed to assure iron availability at higher pH ranges. The result is that your crop will grow reasonably well. even at higher pH levels. Nonetheless, high pH can damage plants in other ways, The cause of a high solution pH can be fairly complex. Most city water supplies contain calcium carbonate to raise the pH of the water and prevent pipes from corroding. As a consequence you are starting with water that has an abnormal pH, typically 8.0 for city water.

The best way to deal with this is to mix fresh nutrient with your water, let stand for a while to stabilize, then test and adjust the pH. With city water supplies you will often have to add a bit of pH down (usually phosphoric acid) to lower the pH to the range for most plants, between 5.8 and 6.2.

As the plants grow. it is a good idea to occasionally test the pH and adjust it if needed. You can safely allow pH to drift between 5.5 and 7.0 without adjustment. in fact, constantly dumping chemicals into your system to maintain a perfect pH of 5.8 to 6.0 can do a lot of damage. It is common for pH to drift up for a while, then down, and up again. This change is an indication that your plants are absorbing nutrient properly. Adjust pH only if it wanders too far.

A pH below 5.5 or above 7.0 can mean trouble. but don't overreact. An apparently sudden and dramatic shift in pH can be the result of a malfunctioning pH meter. If in doubt, double check with a reagent (color match) pH kit before adjusting your solution. Also remember that all pH measuring methods are temperature dependent. Read and follow all of the instructions that came with your meter or test kit.

Media Culpa Another cause of unstable pH is poor quality growing media. Industrial grade rockwool and gravel are notorious for having very high pH levels that cause your nutrient pH. to rise, often to constantly rise, often to dangerous levels. A simple way to test a new growing medium is to put some of the medium - rockwool, gravel, soil - into a clean cup, then immerse (soak) the sample. in distilled or "deionized" (chemically pure) water. Let this sit for a little while and then test the pH of the water, note the pH and continue to let the sample sit. Test the pH occasionally for about a week until it has stabilized. Has the pH risen to 8.0, perhaps 9.0? Construction grade gravel can go as high as 10.0 torture to roots. Death to plants!

Never underestimate growing media as sources of pH problems. This is one of the primary reasons that "waterculture" hydroponic methods are gaining popularity over "media-based" hydroponics. The less medium you use, the fewer problems you will encounter with pH instability, and salt accumulation. Plus, the water-culture systems require less water and nutrient than media-based methods, due to higher efficiency and reduced evaporation.

Time for a change? How often should you change your nutrient solution? That's one of the most common questions asked, and one of the most difficult to answer. Many people have tried to come up with a simple, easy-to-follow rule once a week, every two weeks - but they're all wrong! They're wrong because there is no simple answer. It all depends on the species, the number and size of your plants. the capacity of the reservoir, the kind and quality of nutrient you use, water quality, environmental conditions such as temperature and humidity, and the type of hydroponic system used. Instead of a simple answer, what we need is a procedure that takes many of these variables into account and is responsive to changing conditions. It sounds complicated, but it's actually quite simple. All it takes is a little monitoring and some basic record keeping. Start with a fresh reservoir of nutrient and make note of the date, pH, and EC or PPM of the solution. As you run the system, the level will drop in the reservoir. Note the EC/PPM level, then top-up the reservoir with fresh water. Test again for nutrient concentration. If the nutrient strength has dropped significantly, add a bit of nutrient to bring it back up to specs.

Be sure to record how much water you added to top-up the reservoir. Repeat the procedure every time you top up the system, carefully recording the amount of water added. When the total amount of water added equals the capacity of your reservoir. it is time to drain and replace all of the nutrient solution.

For example, imagine a hydroponic system in a cool, spring greenhouse with 24 strawberry plants and a nutrient capacity of 20 gallons. Typically, such a system would require about 5 gallons of added water each week, After four weeks the plants will have transpired 20 gallons - the capacity of the reservoir. You need to completely drain and replace the nutrient every four weeks in this example.

Nutrient Pathogens The problem of pathogens or disease in the nutrient solution can be a serious one. It is not uncommon for this to be a regional and seasonal problem. For example, in Holland during the winter, fungi thrive in the cool and damp environment: the air is full of spores. All kinds of soil-borne diseases become endemic in the Dutch winter and growers have to work hard to avoid infestations. One of the reasons Dutch growers adopted hydroponics so readily was to avoid soil borne diseases. Keep your growing area clean. Never allow soil to get into the nutrient stream. If soil is accidentally kicked into the reservoir, the entire crop can be at risk. Some growers will place a sponge-mat soaked with disinfectant at the doorway of the greenhouse. Everyone who enters must clean their shoes on this mat before entering. This is an effective and practical way to prevent disease organisms from entering the greenhouse and endangering the crop.

If an infected plant is introduced into a hydroponic system, the disease can race through the entire crop. By the time a problem is noticed it may be way out of control. Plant diseases are beyond the scope of this article, but the best advice is to avoid problems by working clean, planting only healthy disease free plants, and closely monitoring the crop.

If you see evidence of disease in a single plant, remove and destroy it quickly before the disease spreads. Watch the crop closely and destroy any other plants that show signs of disease. It is better to lose a few sick plants than to risk an entire crop. If you do encounter a disease problem, it is a good idea to completely drain and renew your nutrient after removing the sick plants. If it is possible there is nothing better than to flush the system by running fresh water without nutrient for a day. Then drain and refill with fresh nutrient. Flushing between every three or four nutrient changes can help maintain cleanliness in the root zone and in the hydroponic system. Periodic flushing is especially helpful for gravel systems to remove salt accumulation in the medium.

To the Limit To some hobby growers, especially those who come to hydroponics from the "U-plant-em-and-pray" school of outdoor gardening, the techniques described above might seem too difficult and time-consuming. Remember, hydroponics offers great control over the health and quality of plants today''s grower with the interest and the skill to exercise that control. That's what this article is all about - pushing it to the limits. Remember, too, that it is possible to produce a hydroponic garden that will out-perform any soil garden by simply following the manufacturer's instructions on system operation and nutrient changes, and paying attention to the condition of your plants. But even the most casual grower can benefit from an understanding of a few basic concepts. Quality water is a great advantage, poor water is a challenge. Use only the highest quality plant food, designed specifically for hydroponics. Low grade plant foods and common fertilizers offer your plants poor and incomplete nutrition, cause pH drift, and sometimes contain impurities that can become toxic to hydroponic plants, Only high-quality plant food can grow superior plants. Healthy plants grow faster, generate higher yields and are resistant to disease and insect infestation. When you mix fresh nutrient always measure carefully. Keep notes on your observations of EC drift, pH drift, total water usage, temperature range, and comments on crop health and progress. Keep an eye on pH, and an especially close watch on nutrient strength (PPM. EC, dissolved solids). Look out for diseases and remove and destroy sick plants immediately.

Control your nutrient temperature - use high quality aquarium heaters to warm nutrient in the winter, look for "chillers" to cool your nutrient in the summer if high nutrient temperature becomes a problem. The aquaculture or fish farming people have developed excellent chillers. Fish don't like water that's too hot or too cold either.

Don't be overwhelmed or intimidated. Plants can tolerate quite a lot of stress and still produce well. On the other hand, the grower who knows the questions. and how to find answers, is the one who will have consistently good crops. It is far easier to avoid problems through knowledge and proper technique than to fix them after they arise.

Mold/Mildew Solution

First, scrub down the growing area and equipment in the room with a mild bleach solution, paying particular attention to the walls and plant supports. (1 part chlorine bleach to 10 parts fresh water). Maintain humidity levels less than 60%. This can be done with a dehumidifier. Fuel burning CO2 generators add humidity to the environment. The exhaust fan can be wired inline with a dehumidistat. However, the room will be as humid as the air being drawn into it. An activated charcoal air filtration system would reduce the number of mold spores entering the grow room if installed in the intake or as an air cleaner in the grow

room. The most important thing to do to prevent mold problems is good air circulation in the plant canopy. Make sure that plants, especially flowers/fruits/buds are not touching each other. Generally leaves that are touching each other are O.K. as long as no moisture is visible on the leaves' surface. Prevention is the best long term cure-bar none. If you have had a mold problem in the past, you must sterilize your growing area and equipment. Before you introduce your next crop to the growing environment. Scrub down the walls and systems with a mild bleach solution. One part of bleach to ten parts water is adequate. Rinse/scrub with lots of fresh water. Irrigation lines can be flushed with a hydrogen peroxide solution. High humidity in the growing environment is usually attributed to foliar fungus problems. Make sure your humidity is less than 60% during dark cycles humidity is usually the highest. Wire a dehumidistat to your vent fan or dehumidifier. Ensure that the plants are not touching walls or each other, especially floral clusters. Good air circulation in the plant canopy is essential, so have an oscillating fan gently blowing on your plants 24 hours a day. Increased potassium levels have been shown to increase plant resistance to mold problems. If growing in soil, let the top 1/2"-1" of the growing mix dry out before watering, as this is a breeding ground for mold/fungal spores. Just stick your finger into the soil to determine when to irrigate. Most plants grown today have been hybridized. Try growing a variety with more of a tropical lineage. Plants that have originated in dry, arid conditions, such as Afghanistan, are more likely to have mold problems when in a humid environment. Tropical varieties generally take longer to mature, but the results can outweigh the additional time spent in flowering. If you are in mid crop, try using garden sulfur in a foliar spray. It is available in a ready made spray by Safer's called "Defender." Always follow the manufacturer's directions carefully. Good luck. Garlic If it works against Vampires! Garlic has been around since the dawn of time and with it much folklore about its' powerful properties. The most noted thing about garlic is the incredible pungent odor. Every garden should have garlic planted. The garlic bulb consists of numerous segments called cloves, which can be separated and planted. A biennial usually grown as an annual, garlic boasts many antibiotic and pest preventive properties as well as many health benefits when consumed. A very aromatic and savory herb, garlic aids in the circulatory and digestive systems. No kitchen is complete without garlic. If you were to go onto the internet you would find dozens and dozens of sites devoted solely to the stinking rose. What makes garlic so powerful? Sulfur or better yet the numerous sulfur compounds. Sulfur has had a reputation for being a fine fungicide on its own but is often more effective when paired up with a companion product such as lime or copper. How does it work for insects? The garlic compound allicin confounds the sensory receptors of the insects confusing them during their search for a host plant. In the garden, garlic is recommended as a companion plant to be planted in between certain plants in order to keep pests away, roses love garlic, in fact, it is actually a name of a companion planting book. Inside you may not have the room or the desire to plant garlic amongst your prized African violets but you can still bring it to your garden and that is through foliar spraying with a garlic concoction.

Garlic is very effective as a fungicide and will do a fine job controlling powdery mildew and downy mildew. Garlic is also very effective in repelling insects and keeping them away from your plants, understanding that garlic will not kill insects only repel them. What is the old saying-An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure-it is strongly recommended to use it as a preventive and as a maintenance measure in any garden inside or out. Here is a recipe for making your own garlic spray: 1/4 pound garlic (2-3 whole garlic bulbs) 1 quart water 4-5 drops dishwashing soap blender or food processor cheesecloth 1 quart glass jar Directions: Separate the garlic bulbs into cloves but do not peel them. Place the whole garlic cloves in a blender or food processor with 1 cup of water. Chop well. Add the rest of the water and the dishwashing soap. Blend until liquefied (this usually takes a few minutes). Strain the mixture through the cheesecloth to remove bits of garlic that might clog up your sprayer. It's a good idea to strain it a second time if any debris remains in solution. Store in a glass jar with a tight fitting lid until you are ready to use it. To make a spray from the concentrated extract, dilute 1 part extract with 10 parts water. Note: most bugs don't like garlic including beneficial insects. There are many recipes containing garlic that are very effective some include neem oil, hot capsicum peppers even tomatoes which all have their own unique properties valuable in dealing with pests. If you don't want to make your own garlic spray there are several products on the market today including Garlic Guard which is a garlic spray with added anti-transpirants that has proven to be the most effective of all the consumer products but there is also Garlic Barrier which is 99% garlic oil extract in a concentrated form that provides the opportunity of being a spray on its own or a base for a more complex pest fighter. In conclusion, garlic is a wonderful well rounded addition to any garden.