47

A55 Crags

Craig y Forwyn
Jungle Love E3 5c

Craig y Forwyn
21m A good route with an exposed finish up the

A55 Crags

48

front face of the square-cut arte. Beware of some friable rock.

Andy Pollitt, Norman Clacher, 27.10.81

20m The left-hand side of the wall is taken by this good new route. Start from the left-hand end of the ledge running along the base of the wall, 4m left of Imminent Crisis. Climb direct on excellent rock to the mid-height break. Step left and pull through onto the upper wall (medium wires and a thread above the break on the left). Step back right, move up to a good crimp and make difficult thin moves up rightwards through the dark streak to a crack and the top. Pete Harrison, 2.8.12

Imminent Departees E7 6c?

beneath the arete. Move up right for a couple of metres then go straight up the wall passing a thread and peg to reach the Yew tree (possible belay). Step onto the wall and move up left to the arete. Follow the fine arete and right wall to the top.

30m A superb route with an airy finish. Start

Fido's Redemption HVS 5a

Variation: Jugular Start E1 5b 16m Start 3m right of the normal start at a steep black corner. Climb the corner to a small roof. Pull over this then move out left onto the arete. Go straight up through a small overhang and move left to the yew tree. Finish as for Fido's Redemption.
J.Whittle, D.G. Peers, January 1971

N.Sherry, D.Williams 17.7.65, starting from the gully on the left. Climbed as described by A.Ingham, K.Farrimond 1.7.83.

Imminent Crisis E5 6b

Start 3m left of the corner of The Cutter. Climb the wall, past a peg at 8m, to the horizontal break and a good thread. Cross the bulge rightwards then pull up left to a poor rest 3m below the top. Step right to a pocket and make an enormous reach to gain a jug and the top.
FFA: Ron Fawcett, Bill Wayman 5.5.82. Done previously with some aid by Trevor Hodgson.

20m A tough route with a crux right at the top.

High Steppa E5 6b

20m Start on the ledge on the left-hand side of the vegetated bay. Climb the corner crack exiting left at the top.

The Cutter Severe 4a

The wall immediately right of The Cutter has been climbed at VS 4b.

Great Wall at mid-height. Begin as for Jugular Start. 1. 27m 5c Climb the corner to the top roof, swing right to the pegs on Freedom. Pull over here and traverse right along the lip, passing the peg belay and bottomless corner of Crazy Horses to a hanging stance at the ring peg on Quick Step. 2. 27m 6b Move right to good holds, then boldly cross the wall to join Great Wall. Carry on then go straight up and over the bulge (Demolition) to a tree belay. 3. 9m 4b Climb the easy groove behind the trees, exiting left at the top.
Andy Pollitt, Pete Bailey 10.1.81

63m A bold and technical traverse crossing

The Arete VS 4c

Great Whaler E2 5c
Steppa

side of the arte in the centre of the vegetated bay. Go up leftwards onto the arte, move left then back right into a shallow groove. Go up this, finishing up an in-cut corner.
N.Sherry, D.Patrick, April 1965

21m A pleasant route. Start on the right-hand

56m A lower girlde of this area. Start as for High 1. 19m 5b Go up the corner for 5m to an

The vegetated gully is Fido's Folly, V Di .

23m An interesting pitch up right wall of the vegetated gully. Start below the left-hand side of the arte. Climb the left wall of the arte past a flake hold to the last of 3 threads. Move left up to a rest, then back right to finish up the last 3m of the arte. Gary Gibson, 1984

Clap Trap E3 5c

obvious traverse line leading rightwards. Cross this and swing round the arte into Mojo. Follow this up to the roof (wooden wedge). Move right and pull up to the next roof, peg. Traverse delicately right to a peg belay on the arte. 2. 28m 5c Step down and move right, peg, then continue traversing into Great Wall, peg. Move up to a thread then do the traverse on Great Wall into the middle of the wall. Pull up to the next thread then go out right onto the wall and traverse right again until moves straight up lead over the bulge to tree belay as for High Steppa. 3. 9m 4b As for High Steppa.
Pete Livesey, Ron Fawcett, 1976.

Pete Harrison breaking onto the headwall on the rst ascent of Imminent Departees, E7 6c. (page **) Photo: Chris Doyle.