HOW TO STITCH SARI BLOUSE

Learn to stitch the indian sari blouse used for sari costume. The method to stitch blouse is very easy. FRONT PART

The above pattern is useful in stitching a cut blouse. Lets use a readymade measurement to stitch the blouse (refer above diagram). I have used measurements in centimeter, You can do it with inch measurement. * chest = 91 cm * full length = 38 cm * Across back = 35 cm * sleeve length = 25 cm FRONT PART * A - B = full length = 38 cm * A-C = arm hole = (chest/4)-4 = (91-4)/4 = 18.7 cm * C-D = chest loose = (chest/4)+2.5 = (91/4)+2.5 = 25.2 cm * A-I = front part = chest/3 = 91/3 = 30.3cm

* A-E = shoulder = AB/2 = 35/2 = 17.5 cm * A-F = Neck Breadth = (chest/12)+1.5 = 9 cm * A-H = Front Neck = chest/8 = 11.3 cm * K-B = patti part = full length-front part=7.7 cm PATTI PART (K-B part in the above diagram)

* A-C = full length = 11 cm * A-B = patti width SLEEVE PART

* A-B = sleeve length = (chest/4)+2.5 * A-C = sleeve width = (chest/4)+2.5 * E-D = (chest/4-4) Now let's see how to stitch the sari blouse. Before going to stitch the real material , we'll draw the stitching pattern. I have used news paper to draw the stitching pattern. If u want to stitch a blouse of your size, take a sample blouse you already have and take the measurements using inch tape. It is nessesary to draw stitching patterns for both front and back side . BACK PART PATTERN

The longest curve is the arm hole while the other curve is neck. FRONT PART PATTERN

First draw a pattern same as the back side then from the top measure 12 inch and draw a straight line. You can see a straight line in black colour drawn at a distance of 12 inch from the shoulder. The distance can vary from 12 to 13 inch based on the breast size . A normal women can draw a line at distance of 12" else 13". Next measure 1/2 inch from the black line and mark it. Likewise measure 1/2 inch above the black line on both the extremes. Now as shown in the above diagram draw a neat curve along the points . I've drawn the curve in blue colour. Next step is to cut along the blue line like the one below.

The above diagram is the front part which is cut into 2 parts. In the first part we have to sew darts then attach the patti part(2nd part) to the front piece.

In the above image i've drawn the darts in flouresence colour. Those are the places where you have to sew darts.Now let's see how to sew using the cloth. Then take the material to stitch blouse. Below is the material i have used. Fold the cloth to the exact breadth size once as shown in the figure . Then mark the edges with marking chalk. Next carefully cut the edges without disturbing them.

Next step is to join the shoulders, then after that 2 small darts have to stitched at the back part. Then the main three darts have to be stitched carefully in the front part. Look at the stitching pattern diagram above for the three main darts. The dart stitched at the bottom should be bigger that the 2 darts at the left and right sides. Sew 2 darts at the back part straight to the shoulder.In this figure the shoulders are joined , darts at the back part and front part are stitched.

Next to the front part , the patti part has to be stitched. After stitching the three main dots , the front part has to be stitched to the patti part. The patti part should have the remaining length compared to the back part.

Now the patti part is stitched to the main part. See to that both back and front parts are of same length.

Next sleeve part is cut and attached to the arm. There are 2 options to stitch sleeve, you can join the sides then stitch the sleeve else you can stitch the sleeve and then join the sides. It depends on your comfort level. To cut the sleeve use ur model blouse for size. Just fold the cloth once and place the model sleeve on it, then draw the shape and cut it.

After the sleeve part is stitched, the neck crosspeice has to be stitched and then hooks have to be stitched. Finally we finish the complete blouse like this. Try and send your feedback.

The one below is the recent blouse i sewed.

HOW TO STITCH A CHURIDAR

This is the new churidar I stitched. This is a normal churidar but I've cut the churidar into two parts and again joined them. Now measure from the beginning of the shoulder till 13th inch. Cut at the 13th inch horizontally so that you get two different parts, the breast part and the part below breast. [Take a look at the older churidar & salwar post to have a complete idea] Just take the breast part , now im gonna sitich darts so that cup shape is formed to fit the breast exactly. Now stitch a small dart on the armhole and the main dart straight to the shoulder. Stitch darts on both sides of the front piece, you can also stitch darts on the back piece. A small dart straight to the shoulder is enough. When you stitch darts on the front piece dont bring the darts closer so that you dont get a cone shape.Stitch darts of length 2 inch so that you get a u shape. Next join the shoulders, stitch the sleeve and then stitch the neck. It will be fine if you give cross piece to neck. After you finish the breast part join it with the bottom part. Fold and stitch the bottoms and sides. This is the salwar matching to the above one. Ive stitched a normal salwar with some gatherings so that the hip part is comfortable.

Posted by THAZNIM at 7:49 AM 1 comments Labels: CHURIDAR Oct 31, 2008 HOW TO CUT AND SEW CHURIDAR

Now let us see how to stitch a churidar like the above. Stitching a chudithar top is easy . Accurate measurements , some practice will help you to stitch anything well.

The above is the stitching pattern for the churidar , I've given the readymade measurement for the above . READYMADE MEASUREMENT * full length = 105 cm * Narrow waist = 39 cm * Bust level = 25.5 cm * shoulder = 38 cm * chest = 92 cm * Waist = 72 cm * Hip = 100 cm * sleve legth = 25 cm measurements according to the diagram * 1-2 = full length + 3 cm = 108 cm * 1-6 = arm hole = (chest/4)-2.5 = (92/4)-2.5 = 20.5 cm * 6-7 = chest loose = (chest/4)+2.5 = 25.5 cm * 1-10 = narrow waist = 39 cm * 2-11 = bottom = (chest/4)+10=33 cm * 1-3 = neck breadth = chest/12 = 7.6 cm * 1-5 = front neck = chest/8 = 11.5 cm * u can keep the same length for back neck else back neck = chest/12 = 7.6 cm * 3-8 = shoulder = shoulder/2=38/2 = 19 cm Now using the below pics you can have an idea how to stitch a churidar top. Using the stitching pattern i've drawn the pattern on a chart. If your gonna stitch in your measurement , take your

churidar and measure it with a inch tape and draw the stitching pattern. First take the cloth, fold it breadthwise first , next fold it lengthwise . After that you can place the stitching pattern and mark the edges using marking chalk. The material i've used has a lining material too so first im gonna cut the lining material then the outer material. Beginers never cut both materials together.

After cutting the lining material , next im gonna cut the outer material. Be carefull that you dont disturb the cloth. Then cut the outer material.

Next join the front pieces and back pieces by stitching them throughout the edges. Next you will have seperate front and back piece. Next stitch the neck part using crosspiece or lining using extra cloth. Next stitch the shoulders of both piece together.

Next cut the sleeve part, here i have used 3/4th sleeve and have taken only the outer part so that it will be transparent. Stitch the sleeves to the armhole. Next join the left and right sides of churidar. Fold and stitch the openings below hip.

After the sleeves are attached the final outcome , the churidar is ready.

STITCH KURTA Kurta is a north Indian costume which matches to any bottom. Let's see how to stitch a kurta. Now I,ll instruct you how to stitch a kurta like the one below.

The materials required to stitch a kurta are cloth, pattern , scissors, inch tape , marking chalk and paper. Always it is adviced to prepare a stitching pattern before going on to the real cloth to be stitched. You will get an exact idea if you prepare a stitching pattern using paper.

Check the churidar post so that you can get an idea of how to prepare a stitching pattern. Next take the cloth to be stitched. Use inch tape to measure yourself. First fold the cloth breadthwise then fold lengthwise. Always see to that you mark the neck part to the folded part of the cloth and armhole onto the open sides of the cloth as shown in the diagram. Mark on the cloth using marking chalk. I have cut only the front neck , a V cut. Now cut the cloth as shown in the figure below.

Next cut the sleeve part . If your not interested in attaching the sleeve then you need not cut the sleeve. Next join the shoulders , then stitch and join the sleeves. The next thing to be done is to stitch the two sides of the kurta. Check the measurement using a sample kurta and then stitch.

Next fold and stitch the bottom. Finally use cross piece and stitch the neck part. The kurta is finally ready . Try and comment.

Actually the above one is recycled from my old night dress. I just cut it to the desired length and made a kurta out of it. You can also try the same using your own old dresses. If your trying for the first time , at the learning stage , its best to use your own old dresses rather than getting new cloths. i just took about thirty minutes to finish this kurta. Only for the beginners it takes some hours, as

you get experience you fasten yourself. Its an beautiful art to stitch your own dress. Try to think creatively and design your own dresses and stitch them. If your crazy of stitching your own dress , then you can extend still more to become a fashion designer. Always at all period there's scope for fashion . Becoming a fashion designer needs lots of experience. Pleople should like your design and you should become famous. Once you become famous for your design then you can earn a lot through your designs. You can also do regular courses to become a fashion designer in a well reputed universities.

HOW TO SEW CHURIDAR PANT

This is a pant with some gatherings near the foot. This is also known as gathering pant. This pant has long thin legs so that you can make gatherings near the feet. I've used a sample pant to sew it.

The above figure is the stitching pattern for this pant. You have to cut the a-b part and b-e part seperately and finally attach them together. In the picture below i've cut the b-e part first. As the cloth is not so long we have to cut the b-e part first then in the remaining cloth we have to cut the a-b part.

Now fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise and then place the sample pant on top of it like shown in the above picture. You can notice i have marked the outline using marking chalk. Next cut along the marking chalk like the one below.

Next unfold the cloth you'll get seperate two legs. Stitch the sides and join them together. Next in the remaining cloth we have to cut the a-b part.

In the pattern the b-d part is longer than the b-g part so we have to keep gatherings in the b-d part and make it to the equal length of b-g part( refer pattern). Thats wat i have done and made both joining parts of equal diameter. You can see some gatherings in the b-d part. These gatherings will come around the hip so that the cloth will comfortably fit your hip.

Next you can join them. Leave a small loop in the a-c part to pass the thread. After joining the

pant is completed.

Posted by THAZNIM at 10:26 AM 13 comments Labels: PANT, SALWAR Nov 1, 2008 STITCH SALWAR

This is a chudithar pant or salwar that we are gonna learn to stitch. Stitching a pant is easy. Now let us see the stitching pattern for a chudithar pant(salwar). I have given the readymade

measurement. You can try with your own measurement using a sample pant and a inch tape.

MEASUREMENT

full length = 100 cm hip = 100 cm bottom = 38 cm a-b = full length = full length - bottom piece = 100 - 4 = 96 cm a -c = (hip/4)-5 = 20 cm b-g = hip/6 = 100/6 = 16.6 cm e-h = (width of cloth/2)-2 = (90/2)-2 = 43 cm h-i = (hip/3)+5 = 20 cm a-f & c-d = (hip/4)-8 = (100/4)-8 = 33 cm

Using the above measurement draw the stitching pattern. Next take the cloth to be stitched. First fold the cloth breadthwise next lengthwise as shown below.

First you have to cut the c-b part , verify the the stitching pattern diagram above. Next keep the stitching pattern and mark the edges of the stitching pattern using marking chalk. Then carefully cut the cloth without disturbing it.

Next fold and stitch the bottom part and then you can join the edges along the side till the end . Do this to both the leg pieces as shown in the figure. Stitch and join the two legs . Keep some gatherings along the waist as shown in the figure. Keep some gatherings so that the c-h part is equal to c-d part , verify the stitching pattern diagram above.

Next cut the a-c part . In the a-c part stitch a small loop for the thread to pass inside the pant , which is usefull to tie the pant. Now attach the c-b part to the a-c part ,verify the stitching pattern above. Stitch them properly so that both diameter becomes equal.

After you stitch them , the complete salwar is ready.

STITCH PETTICOAT

chest = 60 cm, waist = 30 cm, shoulder = 30 cm, full length = 60 cm a-b = full length = 60 + 5 = 65 cm a-d = armhole = (chest/4)-2 = 13 cm d-e = chest loose = (chest/4) + 2.5 = 17.5 cm a-c = narrow waist = 30 cm a-i = shoulder = ab/2 = 12.5 cm a-j = neck breadth = (chest/12) + 1.5 = 6.5 cm

With the help of the above pattern draw the stitching pattern. First fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise , next place the stitching pattern on the cloth, mark the edges using marking chalk. After you cut, you will have seperate two parts front and back . Near the waist part you can see extra cloth. This extra cloth is usefull for having side gatherings , so that we can stitch a loose waist. First stitch the side gathering on both sides of the dress on both parts. Next fold and stitch the bottom. See to that the side gathering on all four sides are equal breadth.

Next join the shoulders and then stitch the neck part using cross piece. Next stitch and join the sides. After that the petticoat is ready.

SEW BLOUSE This is a yellow v neck Blouse. The blouse comprises of two parts , the breast part and the waist part.

First stitch the breast part then the waist part. The image below is the back part of the top . You can use your own measurements to stitch the top. To get a clear idea draw a stitching pattern. Fold the cloth breadthwise first then lengthwise , place the stitching pattern and cut along the edges. I've not cut the back neck , if u wish to have a different neck you can try. Measure and cut the sleeves. I did not attach sleeves , if you wish you can stitch.

This is the front part, I've cut a long v neck . Have a carefull understanding of how to cut and stitch the cloth. Two main darts have been stitched in the front part to get the cone shape to make it comfortable to the breast part. I've stitched cross piece to the necks. I've stitched contrast white colour cloth to the neck borders so that it looks attractive. Always stitch a contrast neck border. If u want to cut neck of different shapes , you can do it. The two main darts are optional , if you wish you can have else dont stitch. If you want to have a tight , exact fit breast part then you have to stitch darts. You can stitch three darts for exact cone shape else stitch two darts as shown in the image for you to have a u shape. Nowdays people like only u shape darts.

After you finish the top part, next the bottom part has to be cut. The waist can be a shape of your desired style. I've used a simple flard skirt type , you can use a umbrella cut shape skirt or any other type.

After you cut the skirt , first fold the bottoms of both pieces. Then join both side of the 2 pieces.The next thing is to join two parts . The joining parts of both parts have to be equal else you cannot stitch them properly. Measure both joining parts , if you find the skirt part bigger than the breast part, stitch the excess part of the skirt equally on both sides.Finally join both pieces and the blouse is ready.

This is the blouse which i've stitched in my measurement. I'm little fat so the blouse looks big . I've stitched it a bit loose. i just took about two hours to stitch this blouse. I took lot of time in stitching the neck parts. The neck parts are the important finishing part of the dress. They highlight the entire dress, If they aren't stitched well , then the whole dress will collapse. Always take time and stitch the neck part . Be slow in your sewing machine while you stitch the neck part. My first three dresses which i stitched had horrible neck parts. You need some practice to stitch

your necks well. Be happy to stitch your own dress.

Posted by THAZNIM at 6:54 AM 3 comments Labels: BLOUSE Dec 13, 2008 STITCH BLOUSE Now let's see how to stitch a blouse. This is a blouse of a very low neck so that you can wear a tshirt or any normal shirt inside. For the bottom a jean will fit.

First i've cut the back side of the top like the one below. Fold the cloth breadthwise then

lengththwise. Before cutting the cloth , draw the stitching pattern using paper then place them on the cloth and then cut the cloth.

The one below is the front part of the blouse. I've cut a deep neck, you can cut to the length you desire. The stitching pattern has to be drawn for both sides of the blouse seperately.

After the cutting work is over, the necks of both sides have to be stitched. I've stitched a dark violent outline for the front neck. To do this cut a long cloth of 1.5 width , then fold and stitch one side and stitch the other side to the frontside of the front neck. Then fold the folded part to the inner side of the front neck and stitch it. To stitch the neck part you need practical experience. Stitch the back neck also

I've cut the blouse into two parts, first is the breast part next the waist part. Cut the waist part like a normal skirt. Stitching a skirt like this is easy. I've cut a normal skirt , but u can stitch a umbrella cut skirt which will be even more nice when attached to the breast part. Next the two parts have to be attached . Remember the joint diameter of the two parts have to be equal and have to be stitched correctly.

After joining, the blouse is ready. This is a different kind of a blouse , i designed myself. I just thought for some while and designed it. You can also stitch a dream blouse to the shape you desire. First try to visualise , then sketch them on a paper. See to that you get a clear idea of the dress you want to stitch. I love to stitch my own dress, i learnt stitching after my graduation. Now i stitch to some extend. This helps me to save money and time to some extend . Now i need not go to my tailor and spend money and time.

I use a Singer company's sewing machine (fashion maker) , it really helps me to fast sewing. Stitching my own dress keeps me busy. As i finished my graduation and was without any job, this stitching helped me to keep myself busy. Im also planning to open a sewing shop in my native place. Well one can earn a lot through sewing shop. All women sew their day to day cloth , so i hope it comes out well. Well those who watch this site , i'll be really happy if you could get some idea. Any queries post a question and if possible comment about the blouse.

SEW FROCK Let me teach you how to sew a frock. In this image you can see a frock and a pant. The kid can wear the frock alone else the pant also.

This frock consists of two parts , the chest part and the umbrella shaped skirt attached to it. First draw the stitching pattern for all parts to get a clear idea. Now take the cloth to be stitched. Fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise , place the stitching pattern and mark the edges. Next cut along the corners like the image below.

To the chest part i have attached a umbrella shaped skirt. If you want you can stitch a normal skirt else a lengthy single piece. The stitching pattern for the umbrella skirt is below. [kindly refer to the umbrella skirt model to learn how to cut]

Now the image below is used to cut the umbrella shaped skirt. Fold the cloth breadthwise then legthwise. Remember for this type of cut the cloth must be in the shape of square , all sides should be of equal length.In the pattern the part above the smaller curve and the part below the bigger curve should be cut and thrown off. Place the stitching pattern and cut the skirt.

After you unfold the skirt , u'll be able to see the umbrella shaped skirt. This skirt has to be attached to the chest part. The waist parts of both should be equal to attach them.

After you attach both parts , you get this type of frock.

I have also sewed a pant to this frock. I have already posted how to sew pant , just take a look . Now cut the cloth in the shape shown below. first stitch the sides of both legs of the pant then join the two legs . Next stitch a small loop in the waist for the thread to pass else stitch a button.

After you finish the pant the whole dress is ready . try and comment.

Posted by THAZNIM at 9:24 AM 3 comments Labels: FROCK, UMBRELLA CUT FROCK Nov 10, 2008 STITCH FROCK

This is a plain frock . Lets see how to stitch it. I ve given the readymade measurements , You can stitch in your baby's measurement. BODY PART

SKIRT PART

The above two is the stitching pattern for plain frock. Draw them in a chart or a news paper MEASUREMENT

chest = 60 cm, waist = 55cm, neck = 25 cm body lenght = 25 cm, full length = 55 cm

BODY PART

a-b = body length = 25 cm a-c = arm hole = chest/4 = 60/4 = 15cm c-d = chest loose = (chest/4)+2.5 = 17.5 cm a-e = shoulder = ab/2 = 12.5 cm a-f = neck breadth = chest/12 = 5 cm

SKIRT PART

a-b = skirt length = full length - body length = 30 cm b-d = skirt loose = (chest/2)+15 = 45 cm

Using the body part stitching pattern draw the pattern and then you can place it on the cloth to be stitched. First fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise. See that you place the neck part of the pattern to the folded part of the cloth . Next mark the edges carefully and cut them without disturbing . You will get front part and back part. First stitch and join the shoulders, next on the back part cut the cloth throughout the center for the buttons to be stitched.

Next using cross piece stitch the neck, then stitch and join the sides. Then attach the sleeve if you wish. Next stitch and attach the bottons.

After the body part is over , take the cloth for the skirt part . Draw the stitching pattern for the skirt part . Next fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise. Then mark the edges using marking chalk and finally cut them. First fold and stitch the bottoms then join two sides. Next keep some gatherings as shown in the figure. The diameter of the body waist and skirt waist should be equal. Then if they are equal you can join them together.

After the body part and the skirt part is attached the whole dress is complete.