North American F-86F Sabre The design of the F-86 began in the project NA-134, originally designed for

the U.S. Navy. Another development, in particular by replacing the original direct swept wings, was a legendary engine F-86s. Aircraft of this type were produced in large numbers, to his credit, inter alia, to combat the MiG-15 in the Korean War.

Construction of the model

The production model will need: Balsa boards thick. 2 mm and 4 mm piece of spruce strips 4x4 mm lead shot or other load balancing to wood glue, fit the Hercules pencil, ruler, knife, sandpaper synthetic silver, preferably in spray other colors according to the selected document alcohol markers: black, red and blue Print plan model: plan is drawn so that when you print it on A4-size page, click right construction drawings. Then cut out the individual parts and draw them on balsa board. You will need: 1x hull (thickness 4 mm), 2 sides of the fuselage (thickness 2 mm), 2x wing (thickness 2 mm), 2 horizontal tail (thickness 2 mm), 1 x vertical tail (thickness 2 mm). When tracing pay attention to the correct orientation of the wood by Brand --- O --- the individual parts. Cut each section in the middle of the hull cut through the lightening holes in the fuselage sides Cut an opening to insert the wings and horizontal tail surfaces indicated by lines. In the middle of the bow of the hull cut portion shown as hatched here will be placed weights. If you build a model flick, cut in front of the fuselage under the cockpit opening for rail so that the rail fits into the slot. Tape the fuselage together. Seal the edges of all parts sandpaper, leading and trailing edges of the wings, horizontal stabilizer and rudder off the corners. In preparing to continue gluing the vertical tail (SOP). Carefully check that the SOP was skewed even when viewed from the front, even when viewed from above. I recommend solidify joint SOP hull and sealed by a thin strip of paper on both sides. After thorough drying can continue gluing the wings and horizontal tail (GTC). Again, carefully check that the model is symmetrical when viewed from the front when viewed from above. It is advisable to join wing and fuselage and the GTC and stiffen the hull sticking thin paper. If you decide to flick model, glue the piece of spruce strips into the slot under the cab so that the hull protruded less than 2 cm strips. Now let the model dry thoroughly. After drying for a closer credibility model paint by his great master. The aircraft were normally kept in metal color with colorful accessories. Can serve as inspiration and photos of this article. Finally, with spirit marker to draw the aircraft cabin panels on the fuselage and wings, insignia and identification. After drying, the color will be a model to balance and to fly . And now you can fly! If you built the model as Sailplane, Drain it as a classic airplane, just a little more force. If you have a model flick, hook the rubber sling for a pin shots . If it is well built, it should fairly high speed climb up and then go into a glide. With good alignment and can glide 100 meters. When shooting model careful about standing: model after firing enough flies at high speed on that could cause painful injuries.

(C) 2004 Ludek Zrybnick April 27, 2004