Beesource - Beehive Designs - All

HONEY EXTRACTOR - USDA MODEL
SEE DETAIL 2
1/4" J-BOLT & WING NUT W/ WASHER
NOTE: THE HONEY EXTRACTOR IS USED TO SPIN HONEY OUT OF THE COMBS AFTER THEY HAVE BEEN UNCAPPED. THIS UNIT WILL HANDLE FOUR COMBS AT ONCE. CAUTION SHOULD BE USED WHEN EXTRACTING FROM NEW OR VERY OLD COMBS AS THEY ARE SUBJECT TO BREAKAGE. THESE COMBS SHOULD BE PARTIALLY EMPTIED ON ONE SIDE THEN TURNED AND PARTIALLY EMPTIED ON THE OTHER SIDE, REPEATING THIS PROCEDURE UNTIL ALL HONEY IS REMOVED.
SIDE VIEW
DRAIN (SEE DETAIL 3)
CONTAINER BOTTOM 1/2" PIPE FLANGE
1/16" to 1/8" RUBBER OR CORK GASKET 1/2" PIPE PLUG

.1999.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserved. info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
DETAIL 3 - DRAIN FITTING

(NOT TO SCALE)
HONEY EXTRACTOR - USDA MODEL PAGE 2

1/4" WING NUT & FENDER WASHER ADJUSTING SLOT
3"x3"x3/16" STEEL PLATE
1/2" PLYWOOD CONTAINER WALL
1/4"x3/4" STOVE BOLTS 1/8"x1"x12" STEEL STRAP
TOP VIEW
1/16" to 1/8"x1"x1"x1-1/2" STEEL ANGLE
1/8"x1"x12" STEEL STRAP
1'-0"
WELD
1/2"x9/16" NUT BORED TO RECEIVE SHAFT. SHAFT & NUT DRILLED 1/8" TO PASS COTTER PIN 2"x6"x3/16" PLATE
EXPANDED METAL LATH
1'-0"
SECTION AA
HONEY EXTRACTOR - USDA MODEL PAGE 3

3/8" COPPER TUBING BUSHING 1/4"x3" STOVE BOLT 1" DIA. WOOD HANDLE WELDS 3"x3"x3/16" PLATE 2" 2)1/2"x9/16" NUTS 1-1/2"x6"x3/16" CRANK ARM 1/2"x9/16" NUT BORED TO RECEIVE 1/2" NYLON BUSHING 1/2" PLYWOOD TOP OR 1/8" STEEL PLATE
1/2" STEEL SHAFT
2'-3"
1'-8"
VARIES
1/2" NYLON BUSHING 1/2" PIPE, BORED TO PASS BUSHING 1/2" PIPE FLANGE RUBBER OR CORK GASKET
CONTAINER BOTTOM
DETAIL 2 - EXTRACTOR PARTIAL SECTION
3"
FIVE DEEP BROOD FRAME HIVE

NOT TO SCALE
TO
END
SIDE
BO
TT
OM
SIDE
END
EXPLODED ISOMETRIC VIEW

NOT TO SCALE
8-1/4" 3/8"
EXPLOD ED VIEW OF TOP

NOT TO SCALE
SIDE
HANDLE
7-5/8" 19-1/2"
SIDE 3/8"
VIEW OF TOP
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN
2"
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS

AND U N I T E D S TAT E S D E PA R T M E N T O F A G R I C U LT U R E C O O P E R AT I N G
ENTRANCE INSIDE
OUTSIDE
VIEW OF END
5 DEEP BROOD HIVE EX. 6327 SHEET 1 OF 1
11"
END
3/4"
Modified pillow block bar for Maxant Chain Uncapper.

The reason I made this bar was due to the lack of pillow block adjustment when using the Maxant Chain uncapper. The uncapper I bought from Maxant, although very good and well engineered, lacks the ability to adjust the distance between the flailing chains. The factory holes do not allow the chains to be moved in either direction, thereby causing all the frames to be uncapped to the same dimensions. This is a problem for those of us that run our honey supers with nine frames. Our frames are wider than those who run 10 frames per super. From the factory, my uncapper removed the cappings and about 1/2 of the comb from both sides. Although this increased my wax yield, it cut the comb down to about 1/4 inch. I wanted the chains to remove the capping and then very little of the comb. This bar is made from Stainless steel and installs in less than 20 minutes. (Ten minutes per side).
F
.50
F
.50
1.25 2.25 5.25
1.25
1.25 8.00
1.25 5.25
2.25 8.00
The long 1/4 slots (A, B, C D) are bevel on one side to hold a 1/4 flat head bolt. Stock is 16 x 1.125 x 1/4 Stainless Steel. The hole in the middle (E) is 3/4 and the two on the ends (F) are 1/4. In addition to the two bars, (12) 1/4 x 1 stainless steel bolts with SS washers and SS nuts. Pictures of the bar and how I installed them are available at my web site. http://people.ne.mediaone.net/honeyhouse/index.html Look under Maxant. Dave Verville
2" DRAIN
1'-3-3/8"
6'-0" 8' - 6-3/4"
1'-3-3/8"
HONEY
UNCAPPING
TA N K
1 x 2 x 1'-5"
1 2/2 "
1' -3 "
1'
1-1/2" SCREW
6' 0"
3'
-0
"
1'-3-3/8"
1-3/8"
4'-2-3/4" 1'-4"
3'
0"
2"
SL
OP
1x2
2 x 4 x 1'- 4" 1/4" MESH WIRE 2 x 2 x 1'- 10"
B AS KE T TO C O LL E C T WA X C A P P IN G S
1' -1
1"
F R A M E TO S U PP O RT U N C A PP IN G TAN K
NOTE: T H E U N C A P P I N G TA N K I S U S E D T O O P E N T H E COMBS BEFORE HONEY EXTRACTING. TWO B A S K E T S M AY B E U S E D L E AV I N G A P P R O X I M AT E LY 4 2 " T O H A N G U N C A P P E D C O M B S . M AT E R I A L S : FRAME 2 x 2 x 6'-0" P I N E 2 x 4 x 26'-0" P I N E 1 LB. 10d N A I L S 1 x 2 x 8'-0" P I N E 16-1/2" x 5'-0" x 1/4" M E S H H DW. C L OT H 4' - 2-3/4" 8' - 6-3/4" 2 6 G A . G A LV I N I Z E D 3/8" LIP 1'-3-3/8"
1"
1'-6"
1"
1'-8"
BASKET
TA N K
SECTION THRU CONSTRUCTED TANK

H O N E Y C O M B U N C A P P I N G TA N K
SCALE ' NONE
HONEYCOMB U S DA ' 8 0
UNCAPPING EX. 6325
BASED ON FLA
PLAN
NO.
928
1'-8"
30 20
G A L L O N TA N K G A U G E G A LV I N I Z E D M E TA L
1'-3-3/8"
1-3/8"
TANK SHEET 1 OF 1
Removeable Swarm Catching Frames

Frames can be made from old supers. Cut wood strips of 1X pine into 1-1/2" strips. Once you place recovered feral honybee combs in the removeable swarm catching frames, simply take a few frame nails and nail hinged frame together thus making permanebt the combs placed therein. Simply place in super, reconstructing brood nest to allow bees to settle down.
TOP BAR 3/4" X 1/2" X 19"
END BAR 3/4" X 1/2" X 8"
BOTTOM BAR 3/4" X 1/2" X 17-1/2" 1-1/2" Making a removeable swarm catching frame is quite easy to accomplish. 1. Each half frame is 3/4" wide by 1/2" thick. 2. You can drill 4 to 5 holes to lace frame wire to hold comb that you cut out of feral colony. 3. Mount honey filled comb pieces together in a frame. 4. Mount pollen filled comb pieces together also. 5. Mount brood layed-up pieces together in frames. 6. Place brood frames together in center of super. 7. Place pollen frames on each side of brood frames. 8. Place honey filled frames on outside of pollen and brood frames to complete makeup of supered colony. 9. Remove to calm place for bees to settle down.
9"
2 ALUMINUM HINGES
173/4" 3/4"
1/2
"
17-1/2"
.1999.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserved. Dee Lusby/deelusbybeekeeper@up2me.com info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
SOLAR WAX MELTER

DETAILS FOR 3/4" LUMBER
1/2" THICK WOOD BRACE FOR LID 24" METAL PAN 20" 1 " - INSULATING BOARD
A melter of this size will handle wax rendering from 60 hives. You can modify the dimensions and design to fit your own needs. Melters come in all shapes and sizes and can be made out of just about any used material. The sheet metal pan should be 4" to 6" deep and big enough to accept excluders or at least 2 full-depth frames. Paint the entire unit black for max. heat absorption. You should put a coarse screen across the outlet of the pan to keep debris 20-3/4" from getting into the pan of molten wax. Make a cappings basket out of "expanded" metal (wire lath) that will fit into the sheet metal pan.
BACK VIEW DOUBLE GLAZING/ THERMOPANE LID

1/2" x 2" x 17" BRACE FOR LID METAL PAN 20" x 20" x 5"
3/4" x 11-1/4"
1 " - INSULATING BOARD 13-1/4"

15
16"
28-1/2"
7"
SIDE VIEW
24"
FRONT VIEW
SLATTED BOTTOM RACK

FOR LANGSTROTH BEE HIVE
The slatted rack sits on the bottom board with the wide slat up and to the front of the hive. Nail and glue (1) end board and (2) side boards together. Place the wide slat into the groove and slide it into the end board. Slide the 13 slats into place down the groove in the side boards. Nail and glue the 2nd end board to the two side boards. At this point, all the slats are in the groove and need to be spaced. Using a wooden spacer thats 3/8" thick, start at the wide slat (making sure its seated in the groove of the end board) and slide the spacers between it and all the small slats to get them evenly spaced. Once you have a 3/8" gap between all the slats, mark their position with a pencil. Make sure the rack is square. Nail all the slats with 1-1/4" nails to hold in place.
3/16"
2"
(2) SIDES
3/4" x 2" x 19-1/8"
19-1/8"
3/8"
(1) WIDE SLAT

3/8" x 3-3/4" x 15-3/16"
3/4" 2" 3/8"
(2) ENDS
3/4" x 2" x 16-1/4"
16-1/4" 1/4"
(13) NARROW SLATS

3/8" x 3/4" x 15-3/16"
'.1999.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserved. info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
DOUBLE SCREEN BOARD

SIZED FOR LANGSTROTH BEEHIVE
C
1/4" plywood
1-1/2" 11-1/2"
Cut out
15-3/16"
Cut out
7"
18-13/16"
MATERIAL LIST:
C 22-1/2 1/8" pilot hole
3"
3/4"
2) 1/8" hardware cloth / 17-1/2" x 13-1/2" stapled on each side of 1/4" plywood 8) 3/8" x 3/4" x 3" angled pivot doors 1) 1/4" x 15-3/16" x 18-13/16" plywood 2) 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 19-1/8" frame bar
ANGLED PIVOT DOOR
3/8"
2-5/8" 3/8"
2) 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 16-1/4" frame bar 8) 3/4" x #6 wood screws for pivot doors
END FRAME
3/4"
16-1/4"
3/8"
1-1/4" 2-5/8" 2-5/8" 3/4"
6-7/16"
6-7/16"
SIDE FRAME
1/4" x 1/4" dado
19-1/8"
3/8"
1-1/4" 7-7/8" 2-5/8" 2-5/8"

7-7/8"
3/4" 1/4" x 1/4" dado
HONEYBEE CROP POLLINATION CONTRACT
1. The Beekeeper ________________________________ agrees to provide __________ standard colonies of bees at the rate of _________ hives per hectare for the pollination of ______ acres of _____________________, situated in the district of _________________ and owned by ______________________________ (the Grower) over the period _________________ to __________________. The Beekeeper shall not be responsible for the replacement of beehives injured by chemical poisoning or other damage after the bees have been placed on the property. The Beekeeper has the right to remove the beehives after rst notifying the grower if chemicals injurious to bees are to be applied to crops within the 1500 m ight range of the bees and to keep bees from the crop during the danger period without penalties under this agreement. 2. The Grower shall be entitled to inspect, or cause to be inspected by an o cial government apiary inspector, each colony of bees after giving reasonable notice to the beekeeper of his intent over the period of the agreement. 3. The Beekeeper agrees to maintain the bees in proper pollinating condition by judicious inspection and supering or removal of honey as needed. 4. The Grower agrees to provide suitable dry locations for the bees and to assume the responsibility of providing water to the bees. If there are no directions given as to a suitable location, the Beekeeper, according to his judgement, shall place the hives in such a way as to ensure maximum pollination of the target crop. 5. The Grower agrees to pay $_______ rental per beehive colony for the duration of the contract. Payment shall be made to the Beekeeper as follows: $______ on delivery and $______ (the balance) being paid on or before _________ (date). Additional moves or settings of beehives shall require $________ per hive per move and/or the Grower agrees that the Beekeeper is entitled to ____ per cent of the crop yield (based on expected yield increase through bee pollination). 6. In the event of the Grower not harvesting the crop, the expected yield shall be determined by an independent authority. 7. In the event of crop failure after the bees have been brought to the crop through circumstances beyond the control of Grower or Beekeeper, the Grower agrees to pay the Beekeeper the agreed fee per hive. 8. In the event of circumstances beyond the control of both the Grower and Beekeeper where bees have been contracted but not delivered, and are unable to be delivered due to the crop being a ected by environmental extremes, for example, owers have been destroyed by frost or cyclone, the beehives have been weakened by brood disease, been destroyed by wild re, truck break-downs en route or the health of Beekeeper precludes delivery, then the contract is null and void. 9. Forty-eight (48) hours notice shall be given to the Beekeeper prior to any spraying by the Grower. 10. This agreement is not assignable or transferable by either the Grower or Beekeeper. Signed: _______________________________________________ Beekeeper __________ (Date) Signed: _______________________________________________ Grower __________ (Date) Signed: _______________________________________________ Witness* __________ (Date) (* Justice of the Peace or Commissioner of Declarations)
3-FRAME OBSERVATION BEE HIVE

DETAILS FOR OAK LUMBER
A E B - (2) SIDES 1-1/2" x 3-3/8" x 27" 6" 1-1/2"
MASONITE GLASS
5/8"
5/8" 9" 5/8" 9"
3-3/8"
1-5/8" 1/4" x 1/4" 1/8 x 1/4" 1"
G D C A - COVER 3/4" x 4-3/4" x 25"
TOP VIEW
1/2" C - BOTTOM 1" x 6-1/4" x 33-1/2"
3/4" HOLES
1/4" x 1/4" 1/8 x 1/4" 1/4" x 1/4"
D - (2) BOTTOM RAILS 5/8" x 3/4" x 19-3/4"

1/8" HARDWARE CLOTH SCREENED VENTS, 3/4"
F - ENTRANCE : 1-1/2" x 3-3/8" x 5" 5" 3-3/8" 3-3/8" 1-1/2" 1" DIA. x 1-3/4" DEEP HOLE
BOTTOM PLAN VIEW
THIS END TOWARDS HIVE.
E - TOP BAR
PLAN VIEW
3/4" x 1-5/8" x 18-1/4"
3
G - FEEDER 1-1/2" x 3-5/8" x 5-1/2" 2-3/4" DIA.
PLAN VIEW
3/4" x 3-5/8" x 8" 3/4" x 3-5/8" x 6-1/4"
2
1" DIA.
3 1
3-FRAME OBSERVATION BEE HIVE

DETAILS FOR OAK LUMBER
ADDITIONAL MATERIAL:
- NOTE - DEPENDING ON YOUR USE AND NEEDS OF THE OBSERVATION HIVE, SEVERAL DIFFERENT KINDS OF GLASS AND THICKNESSES CAN BE USED. FOR A LIGHTER WEIGHT HIVE, USE PLEXI-GLASS. IF LONG TERM CLEARITY IS DESIRED, USE GLASS. YOU CAN REVERSE THE TWO DADO WIDTHS FOR GLASS AND PANEL IF A THINNER GLASS PANEL IS USED. 1/8" GLASS AND 1/4" PANEL. (2) PIECES OF 1/4" PLEXI-GLASS APPROX. 19-5/8" x 27" (2) PIECES OF 1/8" HARDBOARD OR LUAN 19-5/8" x 27" (2) 3" BRASS HINGES (2) BRASS LATCHES THAT CAN BE LOCKED 1" CLEAR TUBING (LENGTH AS REQUIRED) (1) MASON JAR WITH HOLES DRILLED IN THE COVER
CONSTRUCTION NOTES
FOR MAKING SIDES, START WITH A PIECE OF 6/4 OAK STOCK ABOUT 8" IN WIDTH. CUT DADOS FOR FRAME RESTS FIRST THEN RIP THE STOCK INTO TWO PIECES, 3-3/4" WIDE. NEXT, ADJUST FENCE TO 2-7/8" AND CUT DADO, THEN TURN THE STOCK AROUND AND CUT THE OTHER DADO THAT HOLD THE PANELS. NOW SET THE FENCE TO 2-1/2" AND CUT THE DADO THAT HOLDS THE GLASS. GO BACK AND WIDEN THE FIRST DADOS TO THE THICKNESS OF THE PANEL MATERIAL YOU ARE USING....LUAN, BIRCH PLYWOOD, HARDBOARD. THE HEIGHT OF PART (2) FOR THE FEEDER CAN VARY DEPENDING ON THE JAR USED. ADJUST TO FIT (PINT, QUART, MASON, ETC.) AN ENTRANCE FEEDER CAN BE MODIFIED AND USED IN PLACE OF FEEDER BOTTOM "G" SO THERES TIN UNDER THE JAR INSTEAD OF WOOD. DO NOT MOVE THE HIVE WITH THE SUGAR WATER IN THE JAR. PUT AN EMPTY ONE ON FIRST. ON ONE OF THE SIDES, DRILL THE BOTTOM VENT HOLE ABOUT HALF WAY UP THE FIRST FRAME SPACE. THIS PREVENTS A CONFLICT WHEN ATTACHING THE FEEDER TOP. IF YOU USE SCREWS FOR ATTACHING MEMBERS, THEY CAN BE INSTALLED FROM BOTTOM SO THAT NONE SHOW. THE TOP BAR SCREWS GET COVERED WITH THE LATCH AND HINGE. INSTALL A NICE BRASS PULL ON TOP TO ACT AS HANDLE AND ROUT THE EDGES TO GIVE A NICE PROFILE. APPLY PETROLEUM JELLY TO THE EDGE OF THE GLASS BEFORE INSTALLING TO PREVENT THE BEES FROM PROPOLIZING THE GLASS TO THE FRAME. IF THEY DO PROPOLIZE, USE A HAIR DRIER ON THE GLASS EDGE TO SOFTEN.
MILLER TYPE FEEDER

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR 3/4" THICK LUMBER
A
3-1/2"
END
BOA
RD
SID
A BO
RD
PLACE 1) PIECE 1/8" HARDWARE CLOTH 161/4 5" X 14-1/2" THAT'S BEEN " FOLDED INTO A "V" MAKING IT 2-1/2" X 14-1/2" AND PLACE NARROW END DOWN BETWEEN BOARDS A) AND B) ON BOTH SIDES.
19-7/8"
-7 19
/8"
3/8" 3/4" 3/4" 3/4"
A B B
3-1/2"
SIDE BOARD
15-1/2"
1/2"
END BOARD MATERIAL LIST:

2) SIDE BOARDS 3/4" X 3-1/2" X 19-7/8" 2) END BOARDS 3/4" X 3-1/2" X 15-1/2" 2) BOARD "A" 3/4" X 2-5/8" X 14-3/4" 2) BOARD "B" 3/4" X 2-1/2" X 15-1/2" 2) BOTTOM BOARDS 1/4" X 9-1/4" X 15-1/2" LUAN PLY. 1) PIECE 1/8" HARDWARE CLOTH 5" X 16-1/4"
1/4" X 3/8" DADO
GIVE ENTIRE INSIDE OF FEEDER TWO COATS OF POLYURETHANE OR MARINE VARNISH. POUR MOLTEN WAX ONTO ALL INSIDE SEAMS. ATTACH HARDWARE CLOTH TO TOP OF BOARDS "A" WITH STAPLES. .1999.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserved. info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
IPM/SCREEN BOTTOM BOARD

SIZED FOR LANGSTROTH BEEHIVE
1/8" x 1/8" GALVANIZED HARDWARE CLOTH, 12-1/4" x 17", STAPLED TO TOP OF FRAME.
FRONT
3/4" x 3/4" x 14-3/4" WOOD FILLER
BACK
OPTIONAL: 3/8" x 3/4" x 14-3/4" WOOD FILLER (This will allow for a fully closed bottom) 1/4" x 15-1/8" x 21-3/4" REMOVEABLE BOTTOM PANEL (plywood, corrugated plastic, sheet metal) NOTE: Adjust size of dado to accommodate thickness of panel material.
FRONT
3/8" x 3/4" x 15-1/4" WOOD STOP OPTIONAL: 3/8" x 3/4" x 14-3/4" WOOD FILLER
OPTION PINE FRAME WITH LAP JOINTS
PLYWOOD FRAME
1/4"
3/4" 3" 3/4" 3/8" 5/16" 13/16"

SIDE RAILS - 2 NEEDED
22" 3/4" 4" 2"
FRAME SIDE - NEED 2
3/8" 3/8" 22"
2"
2"
FRAME BACK - NEED 1
2" 3/8" 3/8"
FRAME FRONT - NEED 1
4"
15-1/4"
Inner Cover for Langstroth Hive

Gary, IN. Email: honeyman1942@yahoo.com
Ed Rice
INNER COVER
1-1/4
19
-7
/8
16
1/
The design of this inner cover allows for considerable exibility. The overall dimensions match that of a Langstroth hive, 19-7/8 x 16-1/4. The height can be adjusted as needed. These plans are for a cover that is 1-1/4 high. If 1/4 plywood is used, there is a 1/4 reveal on one side and a 3/4 reveal on the other. You can have the 3/4 side down facing the top bars providing space for patties, or the 3/4 side can be used facing up giving space for dry feed or baggie feeding.
MATERIAL LIST (1) piece 19-1/8 x 15-1/2 x 1/4 (2) pieces 19-1/8 x 1-1/4 x 3/4 (2) pieces 16-1/4 x 1-1/4 x 3/4 Plywood Pine Pine
(Photo shows material/parts for (4) inner covers.)
After you have cut all the pieces to size, a rabbet joint needs to be cut on the short (16-1/4) pieces, 3/4 x 3/8. This is easily done with a dado blade set, but if youre not able to do it this way, here are the steps using a single blade on a table saw.
Pg. 1
.2011.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserved. admin@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
Langstroth Hive Inner Cover

Ed Rice
Adjust the saw blade so it cuts 3/8 high, and it leaves a shoulder 3/4 from the end of the board. Be sure to use the miter gauge for this operation. Make this cut on both ends of all the 16-1/4 pieces.
Attach a piece of wood (A) to the miter gauge that extends to the left side of the saw blade (photo shows 3 x 14 x 3/4). Using another scrape piece of wood (B), hold it tight against the fence when making the second cut to complete the rabbet (C).
Adjust the saw blade so it is 3/4 above the table top. Adjust the fence so there is 3/8 between it and the blade. Using the jig above, make the second cut on all the 16-1/4 pieces.
Pg. 2

Ed Rice
On all the pine frame pieces, a dado is cut for the plywood, 1/4 wide by 3/8 deep. Cut the dado a 1/4 down from the edge. This will leave 3/4 on the other side of the dado. This will vary depending on the overall height you decide to make the inner cover.
Once complete, you will have equal number of long and short pieces for assembly. Two long and two short per cover.
Run a bead of glue in each dado and install long pieces onto the plywood. The plywood should not extend past the length of these pine frame pieces. Glue and attach the short pieces to the plywood, completing the frame.
Pg. 3

Ed Rice
Nail or staple the rabbit joints at all corners. Install a few staples around the inside edge, going through the plywood, thus locking it all together.
Layout a center line on the cover. Drill two holes with a hole saw. I used 1-1/4 hole saw. Any size close to that is acceptable. You want to end up with an opening that is about 3-1/2 long.
Use a jig saw and cut between the two holes.
Pg. 4
THE HOSTERMAN POLLEN TRAP CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR BOX ASSEMBLY
1/2 CHICKEN WIRE STAPLED TO BOTTOM
1-1/2 6-5/8 19-7/8 3/8 OPEN SLOT
BOTTOM
3/8 x 1-1/4 SLOT
16-1/4
3/8 EXT. PLY 3-5/8
TOP
5-1/2
12-7/8
6-5/8
SIDE
3/8 OPEN SLOT
OPEN DRAWER SLOT
6-1/2
FRONT
BACK
THE HOSTERMAN POLLEN TRAP CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR TOP SCREEN ASSEMBLY, PART 1
3/8 PLYWOOD (16-1/4 x 19-7/8) 5 TO THE INCH HARDWARE CLOTH (staple to plywood and wood spacer)
3/4 x 9-7/8 x 3/8 CENTER IN OPENING BETWEEN SCREENS
FRONT
A
3/8 x 3/8 x 1-1/4 NOTCH, CENTERED
5 TO THE INCH HARDWARE CLOTH (staple to plywood and wood spacer)
1-3/4 x 16-1/4 x 3/4 (even with the front edge)
2) 3/4 x 13-1/2 x 1/2 (cleats attached to under side of plywood to support hardware cloth, space evenly)
2) 1-1/8 x 17-1/2 x 3/4 1) 1-1/8 x 13-1/4 x 3/4 (cleats attached to side and back boards)
3) 1-1/2 X 1-1/2 x 3/8 PLYWOOD BLOCKS (even with front edge)
5 TO THE INCH HARDWARE CLOTH (staple to plywood) 3/8 PLYWOOD (14-3/4 x 19-1/8)
FRONT
1-1/8 x 14-3/4 x 3/4 (attach to back board)
1-1/8 x 14-3/4 x 3/4 (even with front edge)
THE HOSTERMAN POLLEN TRAP CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR TOP SCREEN ASSEMBLY, PART 2
UNDER SIDE OF TOP PLYWOOD PIECE - 16-1/4 x 19-7/8 x 3/8
1-3/4 x 16-1/4 x 3/4
FRONT A
3/4 x 13-1/2 x 1/2 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 3/8 TOP SIDE OF LOWER PLYWOOD PIECE - 14-3/4 x 19-1/8 x 3/8 1-1/8 x 17-1/2 x 3/4
FRONT B
THE HOSTERMAN POLLEN TRAP CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR DRAWER ASSEMBLY
13-7/8
2-1/8
3/4 EXT. PLYWOOD
Standard screen mesh (window screen)
13
16-3/4
2-3/4
1/4
Use 3/4" pine for construction with standard window mesh screening. Use 1/4" pine strips nailed to bottom to hold screening and protect drawer bottoms.
.2011.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserved. Dee Lusby/deelusbybeekeeper@mailexcel.com info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
DRAWER
1/4
1/4 x 3/4 PINE STRIPS
4-1/2
16
Hogans Jig For Cutting Handholds in Hive Bodies/Supers

BEES, BEE PRODUCTS AND HONEY
WHIMPY HOGANS
Box 27, Park City, Ky. 42160 270-749-5191 cchoganjr@scrtc.com
The base on my $39.00 Skil Saw is 10-3/4 x 6. If the base on your saw is dierent, you will need to modify this jig. I use a 20 tooth blade.
MATERIAL LIST (1) piece 16 x 1-3/4 x 3/4 Back Brace (2) pieces 7 x 4 x 3/4 Clamp Base (2) pieces 6-1/2 x 2 x 1-1/2 Ramp Wedge (cut from a 2 x 8. This will be a 17 degree angle.) (2) pieces 6-1/2 x 2-1/2 Left & Right Saw Guide (1/4 plywood or masonite. This will be a 17 degree angle.) (1) piece 12 x 3/8 x 3/4 Front Saw Stop (I use a wax cleat for this.)
Align one of the 7 x 4 clamp base on the left end of the back brace and nail. The back brace nails into the end of the clamp base. Repeat for the right side.

Align the 6-1/2 x 2 ramp wedge to the inside on the left and right, tight to the back brace, and nail. This will leave an opening 8 wide.
Nail the two 6-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 1/4 saw end stops to the ramps. These can be made of 1/4 plywood or masonite. These stops are what holds the saw inside the jig.
Attach the 12 x 3/8 front saw stop to the clamp bases. I use a wax cleat for this. The jig is complete.

Place the jig on top of the super end or side you wish to cut the handhold in, and align the ends of the jig and the end of the super. Align the front of the jig and the front of the super at the top. Use 2 welding clamps, or 2 C clamps to clamp the jig, and the super to a work table. Tie the saw guard open with a tie strap just enough to clear the saw base. Set the depth of cut at 2-1/2. (You will have to experiment with this for the thickness of the wood.) Place saw in the cradle and slide down the ramp, holding pressure against the left ramp saw guide, until blade makes contact with the wood. While holding pressure against left ramp saw guide, raise right end of saw and allow saw to slide down ramp about 1/4. Push down on right end of saw. Repeat raising right end of saw and allow saw to slide down ramp 1/4. Repeat until the front of the saw base contacts the front stop. If you want the handhold to be wider than just the width of the saw blade, return the saw to the top of the jig, slide saw slightly to the right and slide down ramp. Repeat until the saw side base contacts the right ramp stop and the front stop. NOTE: CAUTION Release saw trigger and allow blade to STOP before removing saw from jig. Place saw on table and place next super on table and clamp jig to super. Instructions are for a left-handed saw. Photos show a right-handed saw.
This is the handhold that will be made with this jig. With practice you can make a handhold about every 30 to 45 seconds. Watch the video to see how this jig is used: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaWRjpJ5f0w
FOUNDATION FORM BOARD

( FOR 9-1/8", 6-1/4" AND 5-3/8" DADANT TYPE FRAMES )
Materials: 1) wood board 3/4" thick, 9-11/16" deep, 16-15/16" wide. 3) wood cleats 3/4" thick, 1-1/2" wide, 9-11/16" long.
A form board is a device that holds frames in such a position that aids in the installation of foundation and gives a solid base for wedge nailing and wire embedding. Simply place the frame over the form board so the solid platform of the form board extends into the middle of the frame, making it the right height for easy installation of the foundation into the bottom bar. Nail the top wedge in and embed wire if needed.
7-7/8" 5-1/16" 5/8" 3/4"

25/32"
4-1/8" 1/2" 3/8"
5/16"
5/8"
5/8"
2-3/16"
15/32"
3/8" 9-3/4"
2'-1" 11" 1'-2"
7-1/2"
END VIEW
1'-8"
TOP VIEW
3"
11" 2'-1"
1'-2"
SIDE VIEW ISOMETRIC VIEW
NOTE: FINISHED U N I T S H O U L D B E PA I N T E D W I T H PA I N T A P P R O V E D F O R U S E I N C O N TA C T W I T H F O O D.
SUPER DUMPING BOARD

SCALE ' NONE
SUPER U S DA ' 8 0
BASED ON FLA PLAN NO. 927
DUMPING EX.
BOARD 6325 SHEET 1 OF 1
7-1/2"
3 2
2 7 3
DOUBLE THREE FRAME BROOD HIVE

NOT TO SCALE
9 8 6
5 9
8 1
EXPLOD ED ISOM ET RIC VIEW

NOT TO SCALE 5/8" 3/8" PART NO. 3/4" 1" DIA. VENT SCREENED 1 2 3 4 11" 5 6 1 /2 " D IA . EN T RY 7 9 LOCATION SIZE
BOTTOM SUPPORT 1 -1 /2 " x 1 0 " x 3 /4 " TO P R A I L TO P R A I L TO P B OT TO M DIVIDER I N T E R - TO P SIDE 0" 1" 2" 3" 6" 1 -1 /2 " x 1 9 -3 / 4 " x 3/ 4 " 1 -1 /2 " x 1 2 -3 / 4 " x 3/ 4 " 11-1/2" x 19-3/4" x 5/8" 1 0" x 1 8-1 / 2 " x 5 / 8 " 10-3/8" x 18-7/8" x 1/8" 4 -7 /8 " x 1 8 -1 / 2 " x 5/ 8 " 1 1" x 1 9-3 / 4 " x 5 / 8 " 9" 1'
4-7/8" 1/4" 10"
4-7/8"
PA R T N O . 8 - E N D NOTE: 1 . PA R T N O. 6 A N D N O. 7 TO B E R E M OVA B L E , D O N OT G L U E O R N A I L . 2 . PA R T S N O. 1 , 2 A N D 3 M A D E F R O M 1 x 2 PINE OR CYPRESS. 3 . PA R T N O. 6 M A D E F R O M 1 / 8 " E X T. A - A P LY W O O D. 4 . A L L OT H E R PA R T S O F 5 / 8 " E X T. A - A P LY W O O D. 5 . T R E AT A L L PA R T S W I T H P E N TA S O L U T I O N . N OT E : B A S E D O N U N I V. O F F L A . P L A N N O S . 9 0 7 A N D 9 2 4 - R

6 DEEP BROOD HIVE EX. 6327 SHEET 1 OF 1
DADANT TYPE FRAMES

( FOR LANGSTROTH HIVE )
1-1/16"
19 "
3/4" 1/4" 1/2"
3
7/8" 7/16"
8" 3/
5/
8"
1/2" 1/2"
4
45 1/4"
5
TACK STRIP FOR FOUNDATION 7/16" X 1/4" X 17" 3/8" 7/16" 1/2" 7/8" 1-3/8" 3-1/2" - DEEP 2-5/8" - MEDIUM 2-1/8" - SHALLOW
6 7
TOP BAR OVERALL 19"
1-1/8"
BO
TT
AL 4" -3/ OVER 7 1 R BA M O
3/4"
SAW KERF 1/8" x 5/16" 3/8"
9-1/8" - DEEP 6-1/4" - MEDIUM 5-3/8" - SHALLOW
HONEY HEATER
- CHEST STYLE This converted chest freezer is an ideal size for heating up five gallon buckets of honey. Whether its honey that has crystalized and needs reliquefying or honey thats too high in moisture, this type of heater will do the job. The freezer I used measures 19" deep by 30" wide by 28" high (these are all outside dimensions of the chest not including the lid or base) and is the type used in ice cream shops. Find a size that will work for your needs and that costs little to nothing. Remove all existing wiring and refridgeration system from chest. Install two or three electrical boxes on the bottom and connect together with conduit. I used three bulb sockets with 100 watt bulbs. This will provide plenty of heat for a fast rise in temperature. Mount a 4" electrical box on the outside of the chest and attach bulb piping to box. Connect a length of 16/3 electrical cord with plug to the electrical box. Mount a remote bulb thermostat to a 4" square electrical box cover plate by drilling a hole in the center big enough for the shaft to fit through and secure with screws unless the thermostat has its own enclosure. The temperature range of the thermostat should cover at least 100F - 130F and be a single pole single throw. Install the thermostat bulb on the inside of the chest about midway between top and bottom. Install some kind of shelf support for the buckets but still leave open space for air to circulate from top to bottom. Be sure to keep any flammable material away from the bulbs. Use sheet metal for protection if needed. Be sure to check the inside temperature with a thermometer the first time you use the heater to make sure the thermostat is set properly. Use care and caution when using the heater just as you would with any appliance that is electrical and heat producing. The advantage of gentle heating (104 deg. F for 24 hours) with a heat cabinet is the enzyme content does not decrease nor is there an inrease of HMF content.
11-FRAME BRITISH NATIONAL BEEHIVE

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR 3/4" (19mm) THICK LUMBER
18
"
3"
6" 3"
CROWNBOARD
6-1/8"
18
"
ROOF
18
-3/
4"
8-7/8"
1/2 1/2 11/16 1-1/2
7/16
BROOD CHAMBER
18
-1
/8
"
18
A
-1/
8"
2"
1-1/2 SECTION A
1/4
FLOOR
18
7/8
-1 /8 "
"
-1 18
/8"
3/4" EXT. PLWD.
11-FRAME BRITISH NATIONAL BEEHIVE

CONSTRUCTION NOTES
To convert hive to top bee space: Omit the 1/4" rabbet from the bottom cross piece, and make the rabbet on the top cross piece 15/16" deep (still leaving a 1/2" shoulder). When assembling, the bottom of the end walls t ush with the bottom of the side walls, and the top edges of the metal runners nish up 11/16" below the top edges of the side walls. Shallow Super: The construction of the super is identical to that of the brood chamber, except that the overall depth is 5-7/8". Refer to the illustrations for the Brood Chamber, but note the di erence in depth. Crown Board: Made from softwood at least 3/8" thick and with rabbeted, or tongue and groove joints, or plywood at least 1/4 thick. A bee space of 1/4" on each side by framing with four strips of wood 17-1/8" x 7/8". Arrange strips so that at any corner the joint on one face is at right angles to the corresponding corner joint on the other face (see illustration). Alternatively the board may be rabbeted into a frame so that a 1/4" bee space is provided on each side. Two openings in the board 1-1/16" x 3" adapted to receive Porter bee escapes, one centered and the other parallel to it with its center 3" from the edge of the board. Fit the edge strips to the board paying attention to the arrangement of the strips at the corners. Glue may be used - bear in mind that if the crownboard is stuck down well by the bees, it may require considerable prying from a hive tool to dislodge it. If the board is used over a top bee space arrangement, the edge strips on the underside of the board should be omitted, otherwise the bees will build brace comb above the frames in the additional space provided if the strips are present. The strips on the upper face of the crownboard, for use when it doubles as a clearing board, should be 3/8" thick rather than 1/4". Roof: Inside measurement of roof is 18-3/4" x 18-3/4" x 5-3/4". Top boards should not be less than 3/8" thick, and side walls not less than 1/2" thick. Corners should be box jointed and nailed both ways. If using rabbeted joints for the corners, the lumber should not be less than 5/8" thick. Roof should be covered with non-rusting metal or other waterproof material extending at least 1-1/2" down the side. Attach four wooden strips each 18" long and 1-1/4" x 3/4" cross section, tted round the top inside to give a head space of 1-1/4" above the crown board. Drill ventilation holes 3/4" diameter centered through the sides of the roof and spacing strips, and backed non-rusting wire mesh. Assemble the four sides of the roof , taking care to nail the corners in both directions, then t the top boards, nailing them through onto the side boards along all four sides. Next t the four strips to provide the head space, then cover with waterproof cover before completing the ventilation holes.
BeeVac - Outer Box

BACK
20"
10 "
HINGES
10" 15-1/2" 2-1/2" Dia. AIR REGULATOR HOLE 2-1/2" Dia.
7-3/4"
TOP HOLE 2-1/2" Dia.
HOSE
4-5/8" 7-3/4"
5"
1-5/8"
8-
3-1/2"
3/
8"
LATCH
FRONT
Dimensions - (if using butt joints) Top Top - 1/2" Plywood - 20" x 15-1/2" Front & Back - 1/2" Plywood - 20" x 1-1/8" Sides - (2 pc.) - 1/2" Plywood - 14-1/2" x 1-1/8" Bottom Bottom - 1/2" Plywood - 20" x 15-1/2" Front & Back - 1/2" Plywood - 20" x 7-7/8" Sides - (2 pc.) - 1/2" Plywood - 14-1/2" x 7-7/8"
Use a 2.5" (64mm) fine-tooth hole-saw to cut the holes (or rough-tooth in reverse). Rubber/foam weatherstripping is place between the top & bottom. Use silicone & mount the 2-1/2" to 2-1/4" vacuum hose adapter (or common vacuum hose coupler). Once dry, break loose the attachment with a twist. The silicone should remain on the wood for a good seal. Sand & coat all surfaces with varnish or poly finish for easy cleaning.
.1999.BeeSource.com/Matthew Westall - All Rights Reserved. info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Matthew Westall: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
BeeVac Outer Box - Underside of Top

1/8" Hardware Cloth Leave the vacuum motor hole open as the motor will likely stick down below the 1/2" plywood top.
-1/8" Hardware Cloth - staple to underside of top surrounding air-regulator to keep bees outside the box from getting sucked into the box and into the vacuum. -Leave the hole to the wet-vac motor open as the edges of the motor will likely stick down below the 1/2" plywood top. As long as the 'inner box' is solidly 'bee-proof', no bees should be sucked up through the vacuum.
BeeVac Outer Box - spacers to hold inner box:

Back
7/16"
Spacers Outer Box Bottom Vacuum Hose-side
1/2"
Cross section - round off corner on inside edges of spacer. Front & Back - Qty(2) - 1/2" x 7/16" x 19" Side - 1/2" x 7/16" x 13-1/2"
Front
BeeVac - Inner Box

18-3/8"
73/ 4"
Bottom panel 18-3/8" x 13-7/16" x 1/4" (round edges for smooth movement) Attach " L " shaped plaster edging to the bottom of both front & back with 3/8" clearance to allow bottom to slide off.
See: http://www.beesource.com/plans /beevac/306.htm for photo of detail. 13-1/2"
TOP - 18-3/8" x 13-1/2" x 1/4"
HANDLE
1" 1" 7-1/4"
1/8" HARDWARE CLOTH STAPLED TO INSIDE OF BOTH SIDES.
Front & Back - Qty(2) 18-3/8" x 7-1/4" x 1/2"
1" 3" 18-3/8"
Sides - Qty(2) (hose side shown - no hole on opposing side) 12-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 1/2"
VACUUM HOLE 2-1/2" Dia. 7-1/4"
SIDE
12-1/2"
Note: For a precise match, drill the vacuum hole while the inner box is mounted in the outer box (with spacers in place) using the outer vacuum hole as a guide. If the bit 'bites' too much try cutting by reversing the bit.
Bee Vac Notes

by Matthew Westall These are really easy to make and are COMPLETELY invaluable in catching hard-to reach swarms or removing existing hives. I've modified the design of another beekeeper to accept most any wet-vac or other vacuum to hook up to the box. The most important thing with bee-vacuums is that you need to regulate the pressure so it doesn't whip the bees into the inside 'bee-catcher" box (which has sidewall vents made of harware mesh and allows air to pass & suck up into the vacuum, trapping the bees behind the mesh inside the box). If they hit the inside box too hard, they'll die. It's a very depressing feeling to find thousands of dead bees inside the vacuum so please pay close attention to the amount of suction. If you have too much, you'll feel their bodies bump hard down the vacuum hose - just the right amount & you can barely feel them fly down the hose. All you need is just enough suction to make it halfway annoying (to you & the bees) on trying to vacuum them off their comb (or tree...etc). Too much & they'll rip right off their comb (& rip the bees off nearby comb) but you'll find them all dead inside the box. Just the right amount lets a few try to hang onto the inside top-edge of the hose for a second...before getting sucked into the inside box. Thinking of building your own? If you catch swarms or wish to pull feral hives, you'll absolutely want to buy or build a bee-vacuum (provided electricity is close by).
Here's the idea:

Inside box - rectangular shape box with a removable bottom (mine slides on & off) and has hardware mesh on either side. Cut a single 2" hole to match up to a vacuum hose which is inserted through both the vacuum box & this box.....i.e..direct connection to the outside vacuum hose. Vacuum box: - holds the inside box which contain the bees. You'll cut two openings: first for the outside hose to attach to the inside box and second to attach to any vacuum device (I use a 1.5 hp wet-vac which I removed off the top of a $30 vac from Wal-mart - this is removable and you can insert a 2" hose from another wet-vac if you need more pressure - ...any vacuum device which hooks up to the 2" hole I've cut at the top. Inside this vacuum box, you'll need to brace the inside box to keep it from being sucked up to the vacuum (I use a couple 1" wood blocks). As well, you need about 1/2" to 1" around the two wire-mesh sides of the inside box so air flow can get sucked out (leaving the bees contained). The kicker is the regulation of the air-flow.....all you need to do is cut a 2-1/2" or so hole on the top of the box (at least 6" away from the vacuum) and use wire-mesh to keep nearby bees from entering. To regulate the pressure, cut a piece of plastic, tin, tape....anything and mount it to a screw above the hole. This way you can move the piece in front of the hole in varying degrees and it'll cut off outside air from entering as it forces more air to pull through the vacuum hose. Any dimensions will work. I've read of one beekeeper using a lunch box to catch bees. (Though I've rarely seen the opportunity to catch such a small bunch of bees....nor would I want to). During swarm season, you might need several inside boxes.....when one gets full, just pull it out of the vacuum box & insert another (tape the exposed hole on the full box, or use a square piece of something which swivels open & closed manually). Mine cost around $140 with fine 1/2" pressboard flamed maple and clear-coat. If I used 1/2" plywood, I could have built the thing for $20-$30 (plus another $30-$35 for the 2hp vacuum, if needed). The inside boxes can be constructed of most any sturdy material.
Other particulars:
Cardboard won't work (I've tried) as the force of suction from even a 1 hp motor will crumple the box into nothing. 1/2" wood is what I used for the outside box and 1/8" for the inside boxes. Plastic edge-guard (normally used on drywall) is good material for the rails on the bottom of the inside boxes, so you could simply slide open the bottom of the box & knock the bees out into a hive. My outside box has a hinged top & bottom so I can quickly remove the inside boxes. Any method of removing the inside box (& bees) is fine. This idea has saved me hundreds of stings and saved the lives of alot of bees (I wouldn't pull feral hives without one). If you've ever tried to remove an existing feral hive without a bee-vacuum, I'm sure you've sworn off ever doing it again. Try it by vacuuming off the majority of bees first - then remove the comb one by one & vacuum the bees off each comb as you go. With less bees in the air & on the ground you'll have less of a chance at any unhappy bee-meeting. Plus the bees seem to know they're in trouble when you vacuum off most of their population - the rest will likely remain extremely timid. At the end of the day you'll have more salvageable comb (put back into empty frames and tie with cotton string or rubber-bands) cleaner honey (without 1000's of bee-parts) and a bunch more live bees. The idea behind the 'bee-vacuum' is exceptionally simple in design and you'll have much more fun in retrieving swarms or hives. Good luck.
Other Notes:
1) My inside boxes fit tightly into the BeeVac. If the spacers don't grip the sides firmly, the builder will need to place a wooden spacer bar (1" or so) to the top cover on the inside cover of the BeeVac to keep the inside box from sucking up to the bottom of the vacuum. 2) You'll find making multiple inside boxes isn't difficult or expensive. Having two or more on hand will come in VERY handy when picking up several swarms or one large one on the same day. 3) When you've collected the bees, just place the box on top of a hive, pull out the bottom & hit the top to knock the bees out into your hive. 4) During operation, the MOST important feature is the airflow regulator. With the 1.5hp motor pictured, I'll usually close the regulator down to 2/3 to 3/4 closed. If you feel the bees 'bumping' down the hose - you're likely killing them. Only enough pressure should be used that the bees are almost able to grip the hose end. An improvement over this BeeVac would be the use of a smoothbore vacuum hose (which won't collapse with suction) - such as pool pressure-capable hose commonly found at Home Depot. 5) The inside box in these pictures has a piece of rubber carpet padding toward the back of the box so bees have a softer landing. If you use anything to soften their landing, it should be made of something durable & washable. 6) The vacuum in this BeeVac was purchased for $35 from WalMart and easily disassembled to mount onto the outside box. I've never had the occasion to need more vacuum pressure, but this BeeVac will accept any Wet-Vac with a 2" hose simply by removing the BeeVac from the top (attached by whatever means you choose....I leave mine un-attached as the suction alone will keep it on the box). 7) To get the inside box to easily install & remove, round off the inside edges of the spacers a bit - especially to the rear. 8) This box weighs approx 25 lbs. complete, using 1/2" Birch plywood. 3/4" plywood will make the box stronger (unnecessary unless you plan on dropping the thing from trees) but the weight will prove uncomfortable in tight situations. I plan on constructing a 'flexible', smaller version of this vacuum out of 1/4" plywood so I can strap .1999.BeeSource.com/Matthew Westall - All Rights Reserved. it to my back in retrieving bees from high trees & houses. The use of clear plastic might info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com be interesting to beekeepers & bystanders alike to see the bees being vacuumed up. Matthew Westall: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
Transistors 1 - 8 are a conventional audio amplifier with a crystal microphone input and earphone output. Between Tr4 and Tr5 the signal goes through one of three channels selected by wafers a, b and c of switch S1 Position 1: Full bandwith Position 2: Bandpass filter 225 - 285Hz Position 3: High pass filter cut off 3,000Hz Wafer d of S1 is used to bypass the volume control on position 3 The output signal is further amplified by Tr9, rectified positive by D1 and fed to the cathode of V1, a magic eye indicator valve, such that the green eye extinguishes above a certain signal level. Using position 2 of S1, the louder the warble, the lower the gain setting at which the eye goes out. Hence, the lower end of RV1 is painted red to indicate that the warble is loud enough to justify a hive inspection. If it is necessary to turn the volume up to hear the warble, it is not loud enough to indicate swarm preparations so that section is painted green. A two-transistor oscillator and transformer provide lt and ht supplies for V1. It had been the inventor's intention to substitute a meter for the magic eye but this was never implemented.
Recommended Usage of the Instrument

The microphone is mounted in a rubber housing designed to fit in a suitable hole in the back of the brood chamber, level with the top of the frames. The hole should be 1-5/8 inch diameter and fitted with a standard rubber sink plug when not in use. The inside of the hole should be covered with thin black polythene film. The Apidictor should be in its leather case, hung from the neck. The earpiece lead comes out under the veil and is plugged into the appropriate socket. Plug the microphone into the hive. With the volume fully up and the switch in position 1, press the on button and listen. Normal hive noise will be heard and the indicator will glow green. Switch to position 2 and listen for the warbling, bubbling sound. Turn the volume down until the green light just goes out. If the arrow on the volume control points to the green area, close the hive up and leave for 5 days. If the arrow points to the red area, the colony may be preparing to swarm. Switch to position 3. Thump the side of the hive and listen to the hiss. If it is short and sharp, about a quarter of a second, swarming is unlikely. If the hiss is more rounded and longer, swarm preparations can be expected. Either way, the previous test shows that an inspection is needed.
.1999.T.R.Boys - All Rights Reserved. info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
Referring to the view of the front panel, the salient features are as follows: At the bottom left hand corner is the on/off switch, spring loaded. The instrument is only on as long as the button is pressed. Above the switch is the socket for the earpiece, stethoset or headphones. At the right hand side of the panel is the microphone socket. Centrally mounted is the 'magic eye' indicator. For low level signals it glows green but reduces to a thin red line (eye closed) on detecting stronger signals. The large knob to left of centre is a 3-position switch. Position 1 is for listening to the complete hive noise. Position 2 is for listening to the warble.
Position 3 is for listening to the hiss. (Volume control disabled in this position) The large knob to the right of centre is the volume control. This is used as follows: With the switch in position 2, rotate the volume control and listen for the warbling sound. Rotate the knob clockwise until the green indicator just goes out. Note that the quieter the warble is, the further up the volume has to be turned to do this. If the pointer reaches the green area of the scale, it indicates that the warble is not significant, all is well and you can move on to the next hive. If the 'eye' closes with the pointer in the red area, it indicates a loud warble and the colony should be inspected for swarm cells. If no swarm cells are found, check again in 5 days. See also 'Recommended Usage of the instrument' This document was prepared for the benefit of people with original apidictors which needed servicing. Many beekeepers have had copies because they wish to make their own version and it is necessary to point out that many of the original components are no longer available and, in any case, modern equivalents will be smaller and produce better results. It should be possible to obtain a complete amplifier on a single chip. Anyone considering commercial production should first study UK patent no.729067.1958 which is still valid. Further information on the general principles and details of Eddie Woods' work on other beesounds can be found in 'Listen to the Bees' published by Northern Bee Books, Scout Bottom Farm, Mytholmroyd, Hebden Bridge, Yorkshire, HX7 5JS, UK. Post free price is 1.50 in the UK, or US$3.00. Tel: 01422 882751, Fax: 01422 886157, e-mail NBB@Recordermail.demon.co.uk
.1999.T.R.Boys - All Rights Reserved. info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
Note: This circuit shows the MK IV version. The MK V used the transistor types shown in brackets and these component changes: R4 was 15K C8 was 1mfd. C11 went to earth instead of the negative rail. R28 was shunted by C18 a capacitor, value 2200p unspecified. In some models a capacitor has been found in series with the microphone input. A serial number is written on the metal chassis by the 'on' button. *A.O.T. = Adjust On Test
C16 33,000p 3 C17 41,200p C19 5500p C15 .033 2 a R9 4.7K R13 10K L1 18.8H L2 40.8H C21 51,400p L3 7H d
.1999-2002.T.R.Boys - All Rights Reserved. info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
C1 50
MIC R1 2.2M
R3 220K TR1 OC202 (OC702) TR2 OC202 (OC702) R5 4.7K R7 22K R17 470 TR3 AC107 (NKT226) C3 10
WOODS APIDICTOR MK. 4 & 5 - Circuit
R2 47K R4 33K R6 220K R8 33K R10 22K C2 10
1 TR4 AC107 (NKT226) R11 10K R12 2.7K~ A.O.T. 68K c C4 10 C5 10 R14 150K
C20 4400p b
R15 68K C6 10 R19 2.7K R18 470 R21 22K TR5 OC71 (NKT224) TR6 OC71 (NKT224) RV1 2K C7 10
R16 220 R20 68K
S1
C9 25 R22 100
TR7 OC71 C8 (NKT224) 0.1 R24 10K
TR8 OC71 (NKT224)
Phone
C14 2200p
R25 33K
C13 2200p 22K
R23 47K D1 OA85 TR9 OC71 (NKT224)
R26 150K
WOODS APIDICTOR MK 4 - PANEL LAYOUT AND USAGE OF THE CONTROLS
22K OC71 (NKT 224) T1
C10 100
WOODS APIDICTOR - TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION
OC71 (NKT 224)
C11 1 R27 220K V1 VM 160
-9v.
Phone Jack
Switch 'A'
R28 220K
R29 100
Switch Marker
Volume Control 'B'
Microphone Socket
Yellow 1 Phones 2 3 Push-on Push Switch Red Indicator Green Mic
Colour Marker
The Yankee Beekeepers Twenty Frame Extractor

Page 1
Figure 1
Bottom
(1) Covers, hinge and handle
3/8" X 3/4" dado 3/4"
Figure 1A Figure 1B
The Extractor Box. The two side pieces are 26 3/4" X 23 3/4" X 3/4" plywood. The front and rear are 27 1/2" X 23 3/4" X 3/4" plywood. With a 3/4" X 3/8" rabbet down each side. The bottom is 26 3/4" X 26 3/4" X 3/4" Plywood. The cover is made of two pieces. One is stationary and measures 26" X 14 3/4" X 3/4". The other cover is movable and measures 26" X 11 1/8" X 3/4". The front cover rest on a cleat (1) which is in the inside of the box and measures 26" X 1" X 3/4". There is a 3/8" X 3/4" dado 3/4" from the bottom edge on all four panels. (See Figure 1A.) to hold the bottom in place. A honey gate is attached to a floor flange. Mark the center of the bottom before assembling the box. (See Figure 1B, the dotted lines.)
.1997.David F. Verville - All Rights Reserved. dverville@worldnet.att.net/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.

Page 2
Jigs to assist in making the extractor. Frame rest router jig.

3"
1-1/2"
1/2" holes 10-3/4" 2" 26" 2" 10-3/4"
Circle cutting router jig
11-1/2"
1/2" hole
Make a hole large enough for the router bit to pass through. 11-1/2" from the cutting edge of the router bit, drill the pilot hole. Mount router to jig.

Page 3
The drum.
STEP 1: Using a piece of 3/4" solid core plywood. (24 X 24 X 3/4) and the circle cutting jig, cut out a circle 23" in diameter. Mark the center of the plywood and drill a 1/2" hole. Using a 1/2 wooden dowel for the pilot place the circle cutting jig over the plywood and cut out the circle. Using a 1/2" dowel will make assembly and alignment easier.
STEP 2: Glue the 20 frame spacing template to the circle. Be sure to align the centers as close as possible.

Page 4
Frame Rest template. Glue this page down on top of the bottom drum centering the pilot hole and the center of this template. Then using the frame rest router jig, router out the frame rest areas.
16
1 11

The drum.
Page 5
STEP 3: Using a 1/2" wooden dowel place the frame rest router jig over the plywood circle. Then using the outer two holes line up the jig so that the template lines are centered. Clamp the jig down to the circle and route out the area for the frame rests. Cut at least 3/8" deep. After removing the material, rotate the jig 18 degrees, line up the next set of lines and route out the frame rest area. Repeat for all twenty frame rests.
Cut out this area.
STEP 4: See below for the next step. Using a couping saw, cut out the "top bar" area as indicated in the detail. The top bar of the frame fits down into this opening while the flat side of the end bar sits on the drum. top bar area
Cut out a notch that is centered between the frame rests 1-1/8" X 1/2" on all twenty frame rest areas.
STEP 5: After routering out the twenty frame rests and cutting out the top bar notches the circle should look something like this. (Where the black indicates that material has been removed.) Sand all rough areas and apply at least two coats of a food grade poly.

Page 6
The frame cage.
STEP 6: Wrap 1/2" mesh around the outside of the drum. Using (1) piece of 1/2" 16ga aluminum strapping and stainless steel screws secure the bottom of the mesh to the drum. To form the cage top, use two pieces of strapping. Form one strap on the inside of the cage and form another around the outside of the cage. Secure the two straps together with the mesh in the middle using either SS screws or rivets. Mesh is 19-1/2" high.
The frame cage (Upper Cage Support).

The upper cage support is 2" X 2" X 3/4 as shown below. Mark the center of the support and drill a 1/2" hole. Then on the four edges drill a hole from the outer edge to the center hole. Drill this hole slightly smaller than a #10 rod.(Drill bit #14 is fine.)
1/2" hole
2" X 2" X 3/4" #14 drill bit hole 4 threaded rods (10 X 24) X 12" are threaded into the four #10 holes in the sides of the Upper cage support block. Thread each rod into the block so that it is just shy of the hole in the center of the block. (Do not attached this block to the cage just yet!)

Page 7
The bearings supporting blocks.
Using 3/4" stock cut out the two bearing support block as shown below. Lower Support 4 X 4 X 3/4" Upper Support 2 1/2" X 5" X 3/4"
1-3/8" hole
The Drive block.

Using 3/4" stock cut out the drive block as shown below.
1/2" hole
3 X 3 X 3/4"
3/16" X 3/8" dado (kerf)

Page 8
The Axle
Using a solid 1/2" (x 30") rod, drill a 3/16" hole as shown below.
1"
The Axle and Cage Assembly

Push a 3/16" tension pin through the hole drilled in the axle. Slide the drive block onto the axle aligning the 3/16" dado and the tension pin. Attach the drive block to the bottom of the cage. Use SS screws.
axle
Cage bottom. 3/16" tension pin Drive block
Attaching the Upper Cage Support.

Slide the upper cage support over the axle and attach the four threaded rods to the top of the cage. Drill a hole through the strapping at the top of the cage. Attach using stainless steel nuts. Use two nuts on each rod. One on the inside of the cage and another on the outside of the cage. Measure and adjust each supporting rod so that the outer edge of the cage is equal from the axle. Top of cage Threaded rods Axle nuts
Upper Cage Support

Page 9
Final Assembly.
After the extractor box has been assembled, sand any rough wood and finish the insides with at least two coats of a good food grade poly. Use Stainless screws and glue. Make sure the joints are tight and that the box is square. Drill a hole the same diameter as the inside diameter of the floor flange in the front of the box. Attach a floor flange onto the front of the box. Align the inside hole with the very bottom of the box. Secure with stainless screws. Attach the lower bearing block to the bottom of the box. The previous marked center will assist in locating this position. Attach using stainless screws. Place the lower bearing into the supporting block. Then carefully place a 1/2" stainless steel washer over the lower bearing. Carefully lower the cage assembly into the box. Make sure the axle goes through the washer and into the bearing. Measure the distance from the axle to the back of the box and transfer this measurement to the stationary cover. Drill a hole at least 1" in diameter. Position the stationary cover so that the axle extends through the 1" hole. Attach the stationary cover to the box. Lower the upper bearing and support block onto the axle. Be sure the axle is vertical and doesnt wobble around. When satisfied, secure the upper block to the stationary cover. Attach the movable cover using hinges and attach a handle in a comfortable position.
The kit! A kit that contains the following items is available from the designer. Kit contains the two bearings, the upper and lower bearing support block, the drive block with tension pin and the upper cage support block. All holes are predrilled. Specify either 1/2 or 5/8 axle. All of the blocks are made using a hard nylon for years of dependable use. Cost of the kit is $19.95 plus shipping. For more information contact: D.F. Verville 10 Center Circle PO BOX 509 Plaistow, NH 03865 (dverville@worldnet.att.net)
10-FRAME W.B.C. BEE HIVE

( DOUBLE WALLED HIVE )
610 90
EXTERNAL
38 19 19
19 3
514 PLAN VIEW
(2) FRONT & BACK
40 520 19
(2) SIDES
FIX 16x16 BEADING TO INSIDE OF FRAME 13mm UP FROM BOTTOM ON ALL SIDES
610
13
ROOF - 16mm THICK 25mm HOLES COVERED WITH WIRE MESH OR BEE ESCAPE CONES
505
16mm (2) FRONT & BACK LIFT 3 PER HIVE

203
546 ALL MEASUREMENTS FROM TOP EDGE 505
(2) SIDES
203
LIFT WITH PORCH 1 PER HIVE
546

( DOUBLE WALLED HIVE ) TOP SECTION
34 x 10 x 418 3 6 12 34 6 34 x 10 x 418 METAL RUNNER 18 34
INTERNAL B
SIDE BOARD 418 x 10 x 22 16 16 10 16 16 6 10 38 x 10 x 422
A
16 206 16 16 x 16 x 386 10 16 200 10
BOTTOM SECTION
435 372 225
392
206
3mm DEEP SLOTS

16 16
200
A B
END BOARDS
SIDE BOARDS
TUNNEL STRIP BLOCK. PROVIDES ACCESS FROM ENTRANCE IN BOTTOM LIFT TO BROOD CHAMBER WHILE BLOCKING ACCESS TO CAVITY BETWEEN BOXES.
OR
B
INTERNAL DIMENSIONS 372 x 386 SUPER DIMENSIONS ARE THE SAME AS BROOD CHAMBER EXCEPT ONLY 150 DEEP. (SIDE BOARDS ARE: 132 A OR 126 B )
BROOD CHAMBER
C

FLOOR
1) BACK BOARD: 76 x 16 x 505
HEIGHT STRIPS: (SET IN 18mm FROM EDGES) 2) 51 x 10 x 470 1) 64 x 10 x 368
BATTEN: 38 x 13 x 505 1) LEG BRACE: 57 x 16 x 460
19 660 343 76 A 44 318 10 22
(2) SIDES
70
165 505
(2) WEDGE PIECES

180 BEVEL BOARD TO FIT AT POINT A POSITION BY PLACING LIFT ON FLOOR BOARD.
(2) TOP BOARD

16 505 BEVEL BOARD TO FIT AT POINT A 16 418 16 386 372
165
(2) ALIGHTING BOARD
435
455
PLAN OF BROOD CHAMBER

PORCH
ENTRANCE SLIDES
2) 35 X 11 X 280 SLIDES TOGETHER TO FORM SMALL ENTRANCE BOTTOM LIFT SPACING STRIP C 19 x 14 x 457 A 57 x 16 x 457 A C B B 50 x 13 x 457 25 35 13
C TO TAPER TO FIT SLOPE OF LIFT
ALTERNATIVE PORCH
ATTACH PORCH 3mm UP FROM BOTTOM OF LIFT. 19 TOP BAR: 492 x 70 x 19 TAPER TO SUIT ANGLE OF LIFT (3mm) SLIGHTLY TAPER TOP BAR TO SHED WATER SIDE BAR: 492 x 70 x 22 SCREW TO BOTTOM LIFT LEAVING 3mm CLEAR OF BOTTOM. 22 RABBET FOR SLIDES: 35 x 10
492
216 197 70
48
19
LEGS
76
2) FRONT
22 19 146
LEGS CONSTRUCTED FROM 76 x 51 TIMBER.
241
RABBETS TO SIDES OF HIVES. FRONT & BACK ATTACH INSIDE OF SIDE BEAMS. USE SCREWS.
222 70
73
19
2) BACK
76 22
19 146

( DOUBLE WALLED HIVE ) DETAILS FOR 5/8" THICK LUMBER
24" 3-1/2" 3/4" 20-1/4" 1/8" PLAN VIEW 3/4" 3/4"
EXTERNAL
1-1/2"
(2) FRONT & BACK
1-1/2" 20-1/2" 3/4"
(2) SIDES
FIX 5/8"x5/8" BEADING TO INSIDE OF FRAME 1/2" UP FROM BOTTOM ON ALL SIDES
24"
1/2"
ROOF BOARDS 24" X 5/8" X 12" 1" HOLES COVERED WITH WIRE MESH OR BEE ESCAPE CONES
19-7/8"
5/8" (2) FRONT & BACK LIFT 3 PER HIVE

8"
21-1/2" ALL MEASUREMENTS FROM TOP EDGE 19-7/8"
(2) SIDES LIFT WITH PORCH 1 PER HIVE
8"
21-1/2"

( DOUBLE WALLED HIVE ) DETAILS FOR 5/8" THICK LUMBER TOP SECTION
1-3/8" x 3/8" x 16-7/16" 1/8" 1/2" 1/4" 1-3/8" 1/4" 1-3/8" x 3/8" x 16-7/16" METAL RUNNER 3/4" 1-3/8"
INTERNAL
BOTTOM SECTION
SIDE BOARD 5/8" 15-3/16" x 5/8" x 5/8" 16-7/16" x 3/8" x 7/8" 5/8"
A
8-1/8" 5/8" 3/8" 5/8" 5/8" x 5/8" x 15-3/16" 7-7/8" 5/8" 3/8"
B C
5/8" 1/4" 5/8" 3/8" 3/8"
17-1/8" 14-5/8" 8-7/8"
15-3/8"
1-1/2" x 3/8" x 16-5/8" 8-1/8"
1/8" DEEP SLOTS

5/8" 5/8"
7-7/8"
A B
END BOARDS
SIDE BOARDS
TUNNEL STRIP BLOCK. PROVIDES ACCESS FROM ENTRANCE IN BOTTOM LIFT TO BROOD CHAMBER WHILE BLOCKING ACCESS TO CAVITY BETWEEN BOXES.
OR
B
INTERNAL DIMENSIONS 14-5/8" x 15-3/16" SUPER DIMENSIONS ARE THE SAME AS BROOD CHAMBER EXCEPT ONLY 5-15/16" DEEP. (SIDE BOARDS ARE: 5-3/16" A OR 4-15/16"
B)
BROOD CHAMBER
C

( DOUBLE WALLED HIVE ) DETAILS FOR 5/8" THICK LUMBER
1) BACK BOARD: 3" x 5/8" x 19-7/8"
FLOOR
HEIGHT STRIPS: (SET IN 11/16" FROM EDGES) 2) 2" x 3/8" x 18-1/2" 1) 2-1/2" x 3/8" x 14-1/2"
BATTEN: 1-1/2" x 1/2" x 19-7/8" 1) LEG BRACE: 2-1/4" x 5/8" x 18-1/8"
3/4" 26" 13-1/2" 3" THICKNESS: 7/8" A 1-3/4" 2-3/4" 12-1/2" 3/8" 7/8"
(2) SIDES
6-1/2" 19-7/8"
(2) WEDGE PIECES

7-1/8" BEVEL BOARD TO FIT AT POINT A POSITION BY PLACING LIFT ON FLOOR BOARD.
(2) TOP BOARD

5/8" 19-7/8" BEVEL BOARD TO FIT AT POINT A 5/8" 16-1/2" 5/8" 15-3/16" 14-5/8"
6-1/2"
(2) ALIGHTING BOARD
17-1/8"
17-7/8"
PLAN OF BROOD CHAMBER
10-FRAME W.B.C. BEE HIVE ( DOUBLE WALLED HIVE ) PORCH DETAILS FOR 5/8" THICK LUMBER
ENTRANCE SLIDES
2) 1-3/8" X 3/8" X 15" SLIDES TOGETHER TO FORM SMALL ENTRANCE BOTTOM LIFT SPACING STRIP C 3/4" x 7/16" x 18" A 2-1/4" x 5/8" x 18" A C B B 2" x 1/2" x 18" 1-3/8" 1" 1/2"
C TO TAPER TO FIT SLOPE OF LIFT
ALTERNATIVE PORCH
ATTACH PORCH 1/8" UP FROM BOTTOM OF LIFT. 3/4" TOP BAR: 19-3/8" x 2-3/4" x 3/4" TAPER TO SUIT ANGLE OF LIFT (1/8") SLIGHTLY TAPER TOP BAR TO SHED WATER SIDE BAR: 19-3/8" x 2-3/4" x 7/8" SCREW TO BOTTOM LIFT LEAVING 1/8" CLEAR OF BOTTOM. RABBET FOR SLIDES: 1-3/8" x 7/16" 7/8"
19-3/8"
8-1/2" 7-3/4" 2-3/4"

1 " -7/8
3/4"
LEGS
3"
2) FRONT
7/8" 3/4" 5-3/4"
LEGS CONSTRUCTED FROM 2" x 3" WOOD.
9-1/2"
RABBETS TO SIDES OF HIVES. FRONT & BACK ATTACH INSIDE OF SIDE BEAMS. USE SCREWS.
8-3/4" 2-3/4"
8" 2-7/
3/4"
2) BACK
3" 7/8" 3/4" 5-3/4"
10-FRAME LANGSTROTH BEEHIVE

OUTER COVER
2-1/4"
INSIDE DIMENSIONS: L - 20-1/4" W - 16-5/8" D - 1-1/2" 3/4" EXT. PLWD. COVER W/TIN
INNER COVER
5/8"
21-3/4"
2" 1-1/4" X 3-1/ HOLE
18-1/8
3/4"
"
1/4" PLYWD.
5-11/16"
SHALLOW SUPER 5-11/16"
19-7/8"
16-1/4
"
The species of wood used to make a beehive can vary depending upon what is available in your area. The minimum thickness should not be less than 3/4". If you are using standard dimensional lumber, you can use 1x8 (3/4" x 7-1/4") for both shallow and medium super, and 1x12 (3/4" x 11-1/4") for the deep hive body. Start by cutting the boards to length. For fronts and backs, cut them a smidgen over 161/4". For sides, cut a smidgen over 19-7/8". At this point, follow the steps described on how to make a box joint from the PDF Box Joint files. Now that you have the joint cut and the boards cut to finished size, cut the 5/8" x 3/8" rabbet on the 16-1/4" boards stopping just short of the box joint pin at each end. (Chisel these square after the boards are assembled). Note detail of frame rest at left. Pre-drill holes for nails in each pin. Assemble boxes with glue and nail each pin with a 6d galv. nail. Attach 1x2 handholds with screws and glue. Attach metal rabbets on the frame rest notch. Fill any holes and paint all surfaces, both outside and inside and top and bottom edges, with two coats of paint.
19-7/ 8"
16-
1/4
"
DADANT (MEDIUM) HONEY SUPER 6-5/8"

6-5/8"
3/8" 3/4"
5/8"
19-7/
8"
16-
1/4
"
3/4"
3/8"
5/8 "
BEST DETAIL OF FRAME REST
OPTION
DEEP HIVE BODY

9-5/8"
INSIDE DIMENSIONS: L - 18-3/8" W - 14-3/4" D - 9-5/8"
PRE-DRILL & NAIL W/ 6d GALV.
19-7/ 8"
16-
1/4
"
BOTTOM BOARD
1-7/8 "
3/4" x 2" CLEAT FOR HANDHOLD
3/8
22-0 "
"
16-
1/4"
3/4" EXT. PLWD.
10-FRAME ASSEMBLY JIG

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR 3/4" THICK LUMBER Screen Door Spring / Elastic Cord
A C C
PLAN VIEW
(Looking Down)
F E E F
15-7/8"
C A
17-7/8"
F E C
SIDE VIEW
A C
F
.1998.BeeSource.com/Dave Verville - All Rights Reserved. info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
D B FOR 9" FRAMES

A B C D E F
D B FOR 5" & 6" FRAMES

A B C D E F
Side panels are 17-7/8" x 7-1/8" x 3/4" Bottom spacers are 1-1/4" x 7/8" x 1/2" Side spacers are 1-1/2" x 7" x 3/8" Front & rear panels are 15-7/8" x 3" x 3/4" Inner supports are 14" x 6" x 3/4" End supports are 15-7/8" x 3" x 3/4" with a 3/8" x 3/4" rabbet on both ends.
Side panels are 17-7/8" x 4-7/8" x 3/4" Bottom spacers are 1-1/4" x 7/8" x 1/2" Side spacers are 1-1/2" x 4-3/4" x 3/8" Front & rear panels are 15-7/8" x 1-7/8" x 3/4" Inner supports are 14" x 3" x 3/4" End supports are 15-7/8" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" with a 3/8" x 3/4" rabbet on both ends.
10-FRAME ASSEMBLY JIG

CONSTRUCTION NOTES After cutting all of the pieces as described, assemble the jig as follows. 1) Attach (D) to the ends of the side panels (A).
SIDE VIEW A
2) Attach the bottom spacers (B) to the inside lower edge of the side panels (A).
D D B
A
PLAN VIEW SIDE VIEW A
3) Attach the side spacers (C) next to the bottom spacers (B).
A D D C C
PLAN VIEW
D D
SIDE VIEW A
5) Attach two screen door springs to the sides of the end support (F).
SPRING
4) Slide the inner supports (E) into the gap between the side spacers (C) and the front and rear panels (D). DO NOT ATTACH AS THIS SLIDES OUT after the frames are assembled!
A D E
PLAN VIEW
PLAN VIEW
F D
SIDE VIEW A
SPRING
6) Slide the above assembly over the jig as shown below. END BARS HERE TOP BARS HERE SIDE VIEW A
Push the "END BARS" into the gap as shown. Attach the TOP BARS. Flip the jig over and attach the BOTTOM BARS. To remove the frames from the jig, pull up the end supports (F) and remove the inner support. Replace the inner supports, load up the end bars and make another perfect batch!
.1998.BeeSource.com/Dave Verville - All Rights Reserved. info@beesource.com/www.beesource.com Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.
5-FRAME LANGSTROTH NUCLEUS HIVE

The Yankee Beekeeper's Five Frame Nuc Box
Refer to '10-Frame Langstroth Beehive' and 'How to Make a Box Joint' plans for details on construction.
OUTER COVER
Side
INSIDE DIMENSIONS: L - 20-1/4" W - 9-3/8" D - 1-1/2" 3/4" EXT. PLWD. COVER W/TIN
Front
Rear
THE HIVE BODY
The front and rear panels are 9" x 10-3/8". Both panels have a 3/4" x 3/8" rabbet down each side and a 5/8" x 3/8" rabbet across the top edge. The front panel has a 3/4" x 3" cut out centered on the bottom edge.
5/8" x 3/8" Rabbet 3/4" x 3/8" Rabbet 3/4" x 3/8" Rabbet
2-1/4"
INNER COVER
5/8"
21-3/4"
10-7/8
"
1-1/4" X 3-1/2" HOLE
3/4"
1/4" PLYWD.
19-7/8"
9"
OPTION C
OPTION A 3/8"
OPTION B
3/4"
" 5/8
3/4" 3/8"
5/8"
3/4"
3/8" 3/4"
5/8"
The two side panels are 19-1/4" by 10-3/8".
DEEP HIVE BODY

9-5/8"
INSIDE DIMENSIONS: L - 18-3/8" W - 7-1/2" D - 9-5/8"
19-1/4"
HIVE BOTTOM AND INNER COVER

PRE-DRILL & NAIL W/ 6d GALV.
Both the hive bottom and inner cover are 20" x 9". Both are made out of 3/8" or 1/2" plywood. The bottom is nailed directly onto the hive body.
19-7/ 8"
9"
3/4" x 2" CLEAT FOR HANDHOLD 3/4" EXT. PLWD.
BOTTOM BOARD
"
22"
20"
TOP COVER
The top cover is made from 5 pieces. The stiles and rails are detailed below. The cover is made from either 3/8" or 1/2" plywood.
1-7/8
3/8
"
9"
3/4" x 1-1/2" x 9-1/2" 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 22"

22" 11"
9"
10-3/8"
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR 4 NUCS MADE FROM ONE SHEET OF 1/2" (12.7mm) THICK PLYWOOD
5-FRAME NUC BEEHIVE - D. COATES
B F E A G
C ITEM QTY. A B C D E F G 8 4 4 4 4 8 8 DESCRIPTION Side Top Bottom Front Back Hive Cleat Top Cleat DIMENSIONS 10-1/4 x 19-1/8 9 x 22 8-1/2 x 20 7-1/2 x 9-1/2 7-1/2 x 9-1/2 8-1/2 x 2 3/4 x 8-1/2
ITEM QTY. DIMENSIONS 10-1/4 x 19-1/8 9 x 22 8-1/2 x 20 7-1/2 x 9-1/2 7-1/2 x 9-1/2 8-1/2 x 2 3/4 x 8-1/2 A B 4 Top Bottom Front Back Hive Cleat Top Cleat 4 4 4 8 8 C LAYOUT DIAGRAM FOR 4 x 8 - 1/2 PLYWOOD D E F G 8 Side
DESCRIPTION
5-FRAME NUC BEEHIVE
A SIDE A SIDE
B TOP B TOP
C BOTTOM C BOTTOM
A SIDE
A SIDE
A SIDE
A SIDE
A SIDE
A SIDE F G CLEATS D FRONT D FRONT D FRONT D FRONT
E BACK
B TOP
C BOTTOM
E BACK
B TOP
C BOTTOM
E BACK
E BACK

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HONEY EXTRACTOR - USDA MODEL

1/4" J-BOLT & WING NUT W/ WASHER

DRAIN (SEE DETAIL 3)

CONTAINER BOTTOM 1/2" PIPE FLANGE

1/16" to 1/8" RUBBER OR CORK GASKET 1/2" PIPE PLUG

DETAIL 3 - DRAIN FITTING

HONEY EXTRACTOR - USDA MODEL PAGE 2

3"x3"x3/16" STEEL PLATE

1/2" PLYWOOD CONTAINER WALL

1/4"x3/4" STOVE BOLTS 1/8"x1"x12" STEEL STRAP

1/8"x1"x12" STEEL STRAP

EXPANDED METAL LATH

HONEY EXTRACTOR - USDA MODEL PAGE 3

1/2" STEEL SHAFT

DETAIL 2 - EXTRACTOR PARTIAL SECTION

FIVE DEEP BROOD FRAME HIVE

EXPLODED ISOMETRIC VIEW

EXPLOD ED VIEW OF TOP

AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS

5 DEEP BROOD HIVE EX. 6327 SHEET 1 OF 1

Modified pillow block bar for Maxant Chain Uncapper.

1.25 2.25 5.25

6'-0" 8' - 6-3/4"

2 x 4 x 1'- 4" 1/4" MESH WIRE 2 x 2 x 1'- 10"

SECTION THRU CONSTRUCTED TANK

AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS

UNCAPPING EX. 6325

Removeable Swarm Catching Frames

TOP BAR 3/4" X 1/2" X 19"

END BAR 3/4" X 1/2" X 8"

SOLAR WAX MELTER

BACK VIEW DOUBLE GLAZING/ THERMOPANE LID

1 " - INSULATING BOARD 13-1/4"

SLATTED BOTTOM RACK

(1) WIDE SLAT

(13) NARROW SLATS

DOUBLE SCREEN BOARD

ANGLED PIVOT DOOR

1-1/4" 2-5/8" 2-5/8" 3/4"

1/4" x 1/4" dado

1-1/4" 7-7/8" 2-5/8" 2-5/8"

3/4" 1/4" x 1/4" dado

HONEYBEE CROP POLLINATION CONTRACT

3-FRAME OBSERVATION BEE HIVE

5/8" 9" 5/8" 9"

1-5/8" 1/4" x 1/4" 1/8 x 1/4" 1"

G D C A - COVER 3/4" x 4-3/4" x 25"

1/2" C - BOTTOM 1" x 6-1/4" x 33-1/2"

1/4" x 1/4" 1/8 x 1/4" 1/4" x 1/4"

D - (2) BOTTOM RAILS 5/8" x 3/4" x 19-3/4"

3/4" x 1-5/8" x 18-1/4"

3/4" x 3-5/8" x 8" 3/4" x 3-5/8" x 6-1/4"

3-FRAME OBSERVATION BEE HIVE

MILLER TYPE FEEDER

3/8" 3/4" 3/4" 3/4"

END BOARD MATERIAL LIST:

1/4" X 3/8" DADO

IPM/SCREEN BOTTOM BOARD

3/4" x 3/4" x 14-3/4" WOOD FILLER

OPTION PINE FRAME WITH LAP JOINTS

3/4" 3" 3/4" 3/8" 5/16" 13/16"

22" 3/4" 4" 2"

FRAME SIDE - NEED 2

3/8" 3/8" 22"