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SA TU RDA Y, A U G U ST 2 5 , 2 0 0 7
Inputs Details related to Fabric such as face side /Shade bands etc..
1. Shade swatches along with the face side swatch approved by the buyer should be received from the Go down and Merchandising dept respectively. 2. Shade segregation should be complying with the approved swatches. 3. Verify whether the shade segregation is matching to the standard. 4. Approval from H/office mandatory if the received lots of fabric are not matching to standards. 5. The approval must have a checklist form for all the tests & approval standards w. r. t colour, wash, embroidery, printing, hand feel 6. Shade band details (Shade A, B, C, D) after verification should be received from fabric inspector & spreading team also should be given a copy for reference. 7. Shade grouping also must be received from the fabric godown. 8. Fabric details such as to face/back, nap direction; hand feel should be received from the godown duly approved by the merchant.
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9. Shade wise/widthwise segregated rolls only should be received, checked & then should proceed for laying. 10. Both ends of every roll should have sticker consisting details of shade no, roll no, width and other relevant detail to enable easy identification of rolls.
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corrective action. 7. QA team has to educate/specify area of fusing, and temperature and pressure to be set for fusing8. Fusing tests must be carried out twice a day, once at the start of the machine then in the afternoon. Fusing Machine-- Tests & Daily Maintenance: >> Fusing validation trial tests must be carried out regularly, when the new style begins fusing parameters has to be finalised (temperature, time & pressure). >>Check the fusing machine pressure rollers nip, affecting the fusing quality, by passing a fabric strip through the machine & by pulling it backward --the need for re alignment of the rollers pressure can be identified when this is done at three points i.e left/center/right of the belt. >>By passing a carbon paper placed on top a white paper through the machine the impression on the white paper can be observed. This would also will help us to determine any inconsistence of the roller pressure at left>center> Right >>Cleaning of the belt thoroughly and check for the required temperature and pressure when the fabric/colour changes.
Washing Shrinkage
1. Percentage of washing shrinkage lengthwise and widthwise should be received from fabric section and recordedthe suppliers should ensure that the shrinkages are as specified by the buyers (international standard limits are 3% lengthwise and 3% -widthwise ) 2. Identify the face & reverse side as per the swatch . Mark the roll no, PO, Style, QC, Taka No etc 3. If the washing shrinkage % is more that 1.5% then the shrinkage test to be conducted for all the rolls/bales received (100% of rolls) 4. If there is a big variation in shrinkage, multiple markers to be prepared. For Example: For absolute shrinkage % range of 3.0 4.5 % marker/pattern#1 & for shrinkage of 4.5% - 6% - Marker/Pattern # 2 like that. >>Color codification should be done to trace rolls of shrinkage groups , if the range is too large or inconsistent.
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8. Worn out patterns are to be destroyed after conformation on the correctness of the specifications mentioned in tech pack. 9. Lay sheet on which the marker is drawn is torn in the middle & stickers are pasted consisting details like PO no, Serial no, Fabric code no, Lot no. Hence easy identification of cut panels.
Lay Preparation:
1. Layers shall collect lay slip, cutting job card, lay sheet from the minusing person. 2. Layers shall lay the fabric according to the lay slip details. 3. Layers shall collect rolls of only one shade and one width for the lay at a time ,if any shade change is noticed then use separators- i.e. lay sheet has to be placed for identification. 4. The cutting incharge has to decide upon the kind of lay such as face-to-face, face to back, face up, face down, grain line, nap direction during the PP meeting stage upon the analysis of the garment. 5. Use lay separator sheets to separate rolls of different shades if used in the same laythe shade category should be mentioned on every lay separator sheet also. Lay Precaution: 5. During laying the layers should check the lay-to-lay shade variation & also center to selvedge variation as a part of online check procedure. 6. QC shall inspect the lay for lay tension, width, length, grain line, nap direction etc. 7. End wastage for laying of fabric shouldnt be more than 1 cm.
Bulk Cutting
1. Lay wise manpower requirement must be planned. 2. Cutters must be trained on the methods of accurate cutting, especially for parts with deep curves. If possible diagrammatic representation of the direction of movement of the cutter needs to be illustrated. 3. Cutters shall inspect the cutting machine for oil leakage, straightness of the blade, sharpening quality, evenness in sharpening of the blade, dust accumulation before cutting. 4. Cutters shall cut lay as per the mark up using straight knife m/c
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and move the parts to band knife as per the discussion in PP meeting. 5. QC shall inspect all the cut parts using patterns and initiate corrective action upon the detection of defect. 6. Prepare 1st cut bundle inspection report; notify fabric defects and cutting defects to FM/PM. 7. QC should have a cutting checklist against which 1st bundle audit has to be conducted. Checklist should have details of allowances, tolerance included in pattern, notches and embellishments placement markings details. 8. The size of the straight knife for cutting lightweight fabrics should be 6 only. 9. Straight knife must be uniformly sharpened from top to bottom as frequently required,. This ensures even sharpening along the full 10. length of the knife/blade. Note:If sharpening of blade is uneven/inconsistent, it would result in uneven depth of notch marks and variation in cutting too.. 11. For Band knife cutting , patterns preferably made of tin should be used. 12. The patterns used for band knife must be changed regularly upon monitoring the wear and tear on the pattern, due to frequent usage.
Numbering
1. Numbering plan must be given by the numbering incharge, specifying the style #, colour, P.O No., Serial No., No. Of garments cut, sizes. 2. All the parts shall be numbered in a pre determined sequence and at pre determined location. 3. Numbering stickers gum strength (Light/Medium/Heavy) has to be decided keeping in mind the kind of fabric being cut.
Panel Checking
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1. The checkers carried out panel checking by placing the cut panels on the pattern and checking for accuracy of notches, grain lines, nap direction, crocked cutting, measurements & tolerance. 2. Mark the pattern on a board (Acrylic. Card Board) along with +/tolerance as dotted lines around the outline marked. Place the cut panel (component) on this marked area. It becomes easier to asses if the cut panel is within or out of tolerance. This inspection board has to verified and approved by pattern maker before usage. 3. Once the fabric is cut, they shall be bundled and marked with inspection status. 4. When a bundle is checked, they shall be marked with green as c. 5. When cut panels are inspected they shall be marked with green as I. 6. All panels shall be checked for fabric defects.
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