Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

Radiant Underoor Heating Systems

DCM011

Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

Radiant Heat Systems

Experience the comfort of warm oors. Imagine a warm basement, toasty bathroom oors, and dry garages. Clean, quiet, dust and draft free radiant oor heating systems circulate warm water through pipes under the oor. Unlike complex commercial systems, Basic Radiant technology enables you to design and install your own oor heating system.

Basic Radiant panels contain all the hard to nd parts professionally assembled, wired, and tested in one neat package - ready to install. And no sweating or soldering required! The piping is proven, reliable cross linked polyethylene (PEX) used by professionals and featured on many home improvement programs. PEX has been successfully used worldwide for over 30 years.

DCM011

Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

Underoor radiant heat uses the oor to heat the building by raising the oor temperature until the heating output of the oor matches the heat loss of the building. This creates a confortable living environment and is energy efcient.

MAJOR SYSTEM COMPONENTS

HEAT SOURCE Every hydronic heat system needs a source of heat. Basic Radiant panel systems are designed to be exible and can be used with a domestic hot water heater or boiler. The type can be electric, natural gas propane, or even wood red, but the heat source output must be sized to match the total load. The load is the amount of heat required to heat the building. If you are using the heat source to supply domestic water also, this amount is also part of the load.

BASIC RADIANT PANEL The Basic Radiant Panel is designed to control and pump the hot water through the oor. It includes a pump to move the water, a temperature gauge, a relay to activate the pump and other components. Some models include a timer to circulate water periodically to avoid staleness and a mixing valve to control the temperature of the water. The panels are modular so that multiple panels may be used for multiple heating zones. MANIFOLDS The manifold divides the water
coming from the Basic Radiant Panel and distributes it to multiple circuits (or loops). Valves on each loop allow you to balance the ow (and therefore heat) between loops.
DCM011

Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

DURA-PEX RADIANT FLOOR PIPING DURA-PEX pipe comes in

either an oxygen barrier or standard grade. Both types of DURA-PEX offer the same longevity and performance qualities. Typically, 1/2 inside diameter pipe is used and is pre-cut in 250 coils. Standard DURA-PEX is rated for potable water and heating where non-ferrous metals are present in the system. Barrier pipe is used where it is important to restrict passage of oxygen into the system. This is critical when using cast iron boilers. Water is used in most radiant oor systems. In closed systems where periodic usage creates the possibility of freezing, a stabilized glycol may be used in a 50 / 50 mix with water.

FLUID

INSTALLATION METHODS Slab on Grade

Pour a minimum of 2 of concrete over the pipe on residential installations, 3 on commercial jobs. Insulation is shown underneath and on the edges of the slab.

These handy clips hold DURA-PEX either to wire mesh or styrofoam. Figure 75 clips per 250 loop of pipe:

Foam Clip # 98200

Mesh Clip # 98201

At the exit point from the slab, use plastic electrical conduit sweep elbows in 1 size to support the upward turn of the pipe and protect the pipe from concrete nishing tools. The photo shows the elbows inserted in a piece of cardboard to hold them during the pour. The pipe is inserted through these elbows and trimmed even. Group supply and return pipes together. Cover the above slab pipe with a garbage bag to protect against concrete splatters.

DCM011

Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

Between Joists

Tubes go 8 on center (two runs between each set of joists). Place tube in thermal transfer plate and nail or screw up to suboor. This increases the heat transfer from the pipe to the oor. Place batts of insulation under the tubes - but provide a 1 air space between the plates and the insulation. Foil faced insulation is preferable - but not required. The plates should be spaced from 1 - 6 apart end to end. At the end of each run, you can simply loop the pipes underneath the joists. However, if the room below is to be nished or is unheated, it is necessary to drill holes and feed the pipe through the joists. One way to perform this type of installation is to run a loop down one end of the joists (left drawing) Then, in each joist pocket, draw a loop of pipe all the way down to the other end of the joists (right drawing). Then attach your plates.

DCM011

Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

General Notes

1. Maximum loop length is 250, there is no minimum length, try to make all loops the same length. Loops should be coninuous pipe without splices or ttings in the concrete. 2. Maximum circuits per panel is 5 (RHP & RHP-1) or 10 (RHP-2) 3. Pipe size is 1/2 for circuits 4. Pipe Size is 3/4 between the heat source, panel, and manifolds (RHP & RHP-1) 5. Pipe Size is 1 between heat source, panel, and manifolds (RHP-2) 6. Spacing on pipe is 12 between runs in concrete, 8 between joists...You may need closer spacing in very cold climates, with high ceilings, or with less than excellent insulation...consult NIBCO for details 7. Assuming standard spacing, estimate 1 of pipe per square foot in a slab, 1.7 feet of pipe per square foot if stapling up between joists 16 on center

Insulation
Insulation is vital! Heat conducts to the coldest place - especially down into the ground. 1. Place polyethylene moisture barrier on top of ll 2. Under concrete, place 2 of extruded styrofoam 3. In moderate cliamtes, place 1 of extruded styrofoam under concrete 4. On outer edge of slab, place 1 of extruded polystyrene Important: Do NOT use bubble or foil type insulations under concrete

Kits: Installation / Pressure Testing / Filling & Purging

Kits are available from NIBCO for fast, easy panel installation , facilitate lling and purging, and enable a pressure test. See page 11 for more details. Install Kit includes the manifolds, ttings, crimp rings, and other parts you need to connect your panel to your heat source and oor heating loops. The Pressure Test Kit is re-useable and includes a pressure gauge and tire type ll vaIve so you can use your air compressor to ll the system to 100 pounds for the pressure test. Then check the system in 24 hours. Plus or minus 10 pounds may be expected from expansion and contraction of the pipe. You may choose to leave the pipes pressurized during a concrete pour so you can make quick repairs to an accidental puncturing of the pipe.
12129AP Fill and Purge Kit (Includes air eliminator)

The Fill and Purge Kit contains the valves and ttings for you to connect garden hoses for lling the system with uid and for purging the air out. Also included is an air eliminator to screw on after purging to pull out any remaining air in the system.

DCM011

Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

Placing The Pipe

Absolute precision is not necessary. A perfect arrangement is a waste of time. Use the following tips: 1. Do not cross tubes to avoid them being too shallow in the concrete 2. Keep tubes 6 from where a partition will go, otherwise someone may puncture tubes with a nail or screw, otherwise use adhesive to attach partitions 3. Place tubes on reinforcing wire grid and attach with plastic mesh clips every three feet. If installing on styfrofoam, use foam clips to hold pipe every three feet. (see page 4). 4. Ideally, initial runs should be along outside walls to deliver the most heat there 5. Concentrate tubing some in areas like bathrooms where more heat is wanted 6. At the entrance point to the slab, extend tubing up 2 -3 about 3-6 from an inside wall. Space the tubes in a row 2 on center with the outow tubes grouped together and the inow tubes grouped together. This will simplify attaching the manifolds. 7. Seal the ends of the tubes with duct tape until the manifolds are attached to keep debris out. Cover ends with a garbage bag to protect against concrete splatters. 8. Tag the ends of the tubes with a description of their location e.g. Out to back bedroom, In from storage room etc. 9. You may ll the tubes with water before pouring concrete to help prevent them from oating up to the surface, but take caution against freezing conditions! 10. Refer to the DURA-PEX Installation Manual and our web site at durapex.com for more information. 11. You should consult your boiler vendor and / or local building inspector for other tips or code issues.

Layout of DURA-PEX Pipe

When you have purchased your system, NIBCO will prepare a custom layout at no additional charge.

Field Repairs
Before covering the pipe, make a nal inspection to detect kinks, cuts or slits. Repair or replace pipes as necessary. If you see a drop in pressure or bubbles appear during the pouring, stop immediately and repair the pipe. Or, you may place a foam block in the contrete to keep the pipe uncovered and then easily make a repair later.

Tubing Layout Sample

DCM011

Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

Sunlight
All polyethylene pipe is sensitive to ultra-voliet rays and exposure to sunlight should be minimized. If Pex will be exposed where it enters the slab for anything more than a few days, cover it with garbage bags or a similar light blocker.

Floor Coverings
For best results, oor coverings should be consistent through each heating zone. If you have different type in different rooms, you can run separate circuits in each room, and use the valves on each circuit for balancing the heat distribution. Use of parquet or laminated wood products is acceptable, however you should use the limiting sensor function of the Basic Radiant panel thermostat to prevent overheating of the oor. In any case, check with the ooring manufacturer.

Never install a wood oor over concrete until after a month of operation. Heating the concrete the rst time will drive excess water out, even on a slab months old. This water can cause major damage to wood oors

Sizing an Expansion Tank

You need an expansion tank if you have a closed system. A closed system maintains the same uid in it at all times. When the water is heated and expands, it needs a place to go, and the expansion tank lls that role. In contrast, an open system has water entering it via the municipal supply and water leaving it via plumbing xtures. An open boiler (such as an outdoor, non-pressurized wood furnace) is also an open system. If you have a backow preventer, this creates a closed system and you will need a tank even if you have a direct system. To size your expansion tank, you rst need to know how much water is in the system. See below:

Total Length of 1/2 pipe x .00921 Total Length of 3/4 pipe x .01837 Total Length of 1 pipe x .03025 Size of water heater or boiler

= = = =

______ Gallons ______ Gallons ______ Gallons ______ Gallons

Total System Volume = Minimum Expansion Tank Size =

DCM011

_____
X .088

_____

Gallons (round up) 8

Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

TYPES OF SYSTEMS Closed System

A closed heating system is one where the uid is self contained and remains in the system unless removed for maintenance. The uid is heated by a boiler or water heater. When the thermostat calls for heat, a pump moves uid through the oor and returns it to the heat source until the thermostat is satised

RHP-2 Only

DCM011

Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

Direct (Open) System

A direct system uses the hot water source to provide both domestic hot water and radiant heat. A timer, included with Basic Radiant Heat Panels RHP-1 & RHP-2, periodically moves water through the system in off season to prevent a stale condition. A check valve may be necessary just before the ll valve to prevent domestic hot water being drawn through the oor.

DCM011

10

Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

MATERIALS LIST
For most installations of Basic Radiant, the materials list is simple. It includes pipe, a Basic Radiant Panel, 3 tting kits, and tools. These modular kits include everything needed to install radiant heat. You just provide the heat source. Instructions also included.
This chart covers most installations for concrete slab projects. Determine the amount of pipe footage - which in most cases is 1 of pipe per square foot of space. In very cold climates or with higher than standard ceilings, consult with CPI for a custom quote since you may need closer spacing of the pipe. 1/2 Pipe Feet * 250-1,250 # 250 Coils 1-5 3/4 Feet 100 1 Feet --Panel (1) RHP (1) #11000 or (1) RHP-1 #11001 ** (1) RHP-2 #11002 Install Kit #11505AP Fill & Purge Kit (1) #12129AP Pressure Test Tools Kit (REUSEABLE) (1) #11502AP (1) Combo Tool #88011 (1) Cutter #88200 (1) Combo Tool #88011 (1) Combo Tool #88012 (1) Cutter #88200

1,500 -2,500

6-10

100

(1) #11506AP

(1) #12129AP

(1) #11502AP

CLIPS: *Choose Barrier DURA-PEX if you are using a cast iron boiler, otherwise use standard DURA-PEX ** The RHP model should be used for closed system only, water heater based installations Styrofoam (#98200R25) 3 bags per loop Wire Mesh (#98201R25) 3 bags per loop

HEAT REQUIREMENTS
The amount of heat needed for a structure (measured in BTUs / hour) is equal to the amount of heat lost from the structure during the same time period. Therefore you need to know the heat loss from your building in order to size your heat source. Heat loss calculations can be quite involved, and there are numerous variables which can be incorporated to get an extremely accurate result. The following simplied version makes certain assumptions which, in general, concern standard building materials. If your situation is out of the ordinary, consult a building professional or engineer. For wall and ceiling calculations, use square footage less windows, doors and skylights. Once the analysis is complete, you need a boiler or water heater rated at this output. Do not forget to add the peak requirements of domestic hot water, if using a direct (open) system. This is a guide only, and no guarantees are made that the results will be accurate. Consult your local codes and a building professional or engineer.
11

DCM011

Design and Construction Manual

Basic Radiant Heat Panels

Average Seasonal Low Temperature> CEILING (unheated above) A. R-11 Insulation B. R-19 Insulation C. R-30 Insulation D. R-38 Insulation OUTSIDE WALLS A. R-11 Insulation B. R-19 Insulation FLOOR (unheated below) A. Uninsul.Wood Frame w/ Crawl Space B. R-11 Insulation Over Crawl Space C. R-19 Insulation Over Crawl Space D. R-30 Insulation Over Crawl Space E. Uninsul. Wood Frame w/ Unheated Cellar F. R-11 Insulation Over Cellar G. R-19 Insulation Over Cellar H. R-30 Insulation Over Cellar I. Uninsulated Slab On Grade J. R-10 Insulated Slab On Grade WINDOWS/SKYLIGHTS A. Single Glazed B. Single Glazed With Storm C. Double Glazed D. Double Glazed (Low-E) EXTERIOR DOORS A. 2 Wood B. 1.75 Steel With Insulated Core INFILTRATION Note: Cubic Feet Used for This Calc. A. Room With One Exterior Wall B. Room With Two Exterior Walls C. Room With Three Exterior Walls D. Bathroom

-20

-10

10

20

9 6 3.5 3

8 5 3 2.5

7 4 2.5 2

6 3 2 1.8

5 2.6 1.8 1.5 _____ Factor x Sq. Ft. = _______

9 6

8 5

7 4

6 3

5 2.6 _____ Factor x Sq. Ft. = _______

21 9 6 3.5 9 5 3 2 15 4.5

18 8 5 3 8 4 2.5 1.5 13 4

15 7 4 2.5 7 5 2 1 12 3.5

12 6 3 2 6 2.5 1.5 0.9 10 3

10 5 2.6 1.8 5 2.3 1.3 0.8 8.5 2.5 _____ Factor x Sq. Ft. = _______

90 45 45 36

80 40 40 32

70 35 35 28

60 30 30 24

50 25 25 20 _____ Factor x Sq. Ft. = _______

40 40

35 30

30 30

26 26

22 22 _____ Factor x Sq. Ft. = _______

0.7 1.1 1.6 1.6

0.7 1 1.4 1.4

0.6 0.9 1.2 1.2

0.5 0.8 1.1 1.1

0.4 0.6 0.9 0.8 _____ Factor x CUBIC Ft. = ______

TOTAL BTUs / HOUR NEEDED:

_______

NIBCOs Customer and Technical Services Departments are available for comments, order placements, product information and technical assistance 888-446-4226

DCM011

12