Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Book.
Cop>TightN_Jii7
COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.
WORKS OF
Frank Henry
Woodwork
Elementary Elementary Elementary Elementary
Selden.
$1.00
1.00
Woodwork.
Drawing, Pt.
1.
.35
.35
Wood
Finishing.
.60 .35
Woodwork
FOE THE
Grades
BY
VALLEY
CITY, N. DAK.
CRANESVILLE, PENN.
*V1
Copyrighted
in 1908
by
Co.
And
by
DEC 12 1917
CLA479495
v\
Publisher's Note
It it
of this text
more than three years since the first pages were printed. At once they found a
dom
to be studied
instruction for
of
So hands
ap-
and pupils a complete series of texts in harmony with the principles of Mechanical Science. To accomplish this, a somewhat large undertaking, the
publication of these works will be in the hands of
the author
name
al
and teacher of MechanicHenry Maudslay, in whose shops Whitworth, Clement, Naysmith and other eminent
of the first student
Science,
made
modern methods
It
will ever
keep the books fully up to the practice of the best schools. An exceptional amount of expense has been incurred in procuring the illustrations, all of which, except a few of those of tools, are entirely
4
original.
This statement appears to be necessary because of several other publishers making use of illustrations taken from this author's texts. Since the above was written five years have been added to the time this text has been in successful use. This system of instruction has been
used in schools of all grades from one room rural schools to special departments of city schools and always, when used as intended, with great success
and thoro
ers, pupils,
satisfaction
to
administrators,
teach-
and patrons.
During these years many advances have been in the details of problems and in methods of presentation, yet in every case this growth has been along the lines on which this system was or-
made
iginally founded.
belief that the
All experience encourages the fundamental ideals and principles of the Mechanical Science work are correct and that this system will be found best for all classes and
From the one text for high schools published in 1906 the series has now been extended to include complete texts for all grades from the fifth to second year high school, and additional texts for the remaining years of high school are in preparation.
In addition to the texts there has been published
several
works
of interest
to
administrators
and
teachers.
Woodwork
Introduction
This course in woodwork is intended for use by pupils who have had no previous experience with wood-working tools.
planned to develope the subject in a sysharmony with well established pedagogic principles.
It
is
tematic manner in
The
home.
should be thoroughly mastered and progress in construction will be genuine and of educational value. It is no waste of time or interest to learn by use of study pieces the fundamental tools operations. Such a plan if properly followed will result not only in far larger educational value, but also in deeper interest and a better display of finished articles. The advantages of using a complete, definite text are beyond the belief of those teachers of shopwork
first lessons
The
erence works.
who depend upon oral instruction or the use of refThe use of this text has not only
demonstrated the advisability of using a text as a matter of economy of the teacher's time, but has also demonstrated that with this text the pupils will accomplish as much in the sixth grade as we have heretofore without this aid expected of the eighth grade; while in the eighth grade as much value is received as by other means could be gained in first year high school.
NAILS
There are
ilar fastenings.
many
To
introduce to you
at once
sizes until
basis
from which
Examine these nails carefully. Measure ways and remember the dimensions. You will soon learn to S3le3t a 6d nail from an
first.
them
in all
assortment of
many
sizes.
estimate the other common sizes by comparison. In your first work you are likely to use only
6d,
4d and 3d
nails.
If
at
home
with rough inch boards you will likely use lOd nails for the boards and 20d spikes for the 2-inch frame-
work which
nail
is
usually required.
By
driving a 6d
through two
how
much
By
driving a
will
get
another dimension to work from. Try the lOd nail with two thicknesses of rough inch lumber and also a 1-inch and a 2-inch piece. After you have learned the sizes of the most common nails you should learn to distinguish be-' tween nails which are made from the common sizes
of
wire and
made from
nails
smaller
sizes of wire.
having
nails.
common
wire
which are made from wire below the ordinary size are called box nails. A 6d box nail is the same length as a 6d common, but is much lighter and has a smaller head, because the wire from which it is made is smaller.
Hence
nails
made
for
small
They by the shape of the heads. The small nails have the same form of head as the larger nails and spikes. The brads have small round heads The reason
work.
The
is
not to be highly finished and therefore the nailhead may be visible, or it may be set below the surface and covered with putty. In
the surface
is
is
usually torn so that the surface will not finish to the best advantage.
The small smooth round heads of the brads do wood so much when they are set, and therefore their heads can be covered in a manner to make the holes scarcely noticeable. Brads are made in several lengths and each length of several sizes of wire. Most hardware
dealers have a variety of lengths, but usually not more than one or two sizes of wire of each length. Your first work will require but a limited variety of brads. You will have little if any occasion to use those made of the smaller sizes of wire. As
common
x The /i
it.
it is
worth
The
is
a matter of
to use a
great importance.
hammer
will fail.
how
to either
show how
if
or explain
the proper
will learn
way
you
how to drive nails. In driving nails or brads into hard wood they should be rubbed on soap or grease to cause them to drive without bending.
10
SCREWS
Screws are made
in a great variety of
shapes
and
in
work have occasion to use but two kinds. The flat head wood screw shown in Fig.lA and the round head wood screw shown in Fig. IB
sizes for
many
will
purposes.
For your
first
\\
ood you
first
work.
many
Fig.lA. Flat Head Screw
sizes in
pered
steel.
In using a round head wood screw a hole should be bored for the shank. This hole should
be as large or a little larger than the shank and extend entirely thru the piece which the screw is to hold in place. The threaded portion of the screw should be as tight in its piece as may be without splitting the piece or being loo difficult to turn by using a good screwdriver. The more skillful you
become the
tighter the
fit
Fig.
Usually it will be necessary to bore a hole for the threaded portion. The size of hole to be bored will depend upon the hardness of the wood used.
11
way
of hole to
bore
is
wood
of
which
holes for screws in hard wood it is usually best to bore the hole so deep that the point of the screw will not reach the bottom of the hole.
Much
of
upon using a properly fitted screwdriver. The usual form of screwdriver is shown in Fig. 2 A. The most important part of this tool is the point. This
fit the slot in the screw head. A screwdriver ought never to be shaped to be used in both large and small screws, but instead there should be a screwdriver for each two or three sizes of screw heads. Never file a screwdriver intended for a large screw head to a small point to use in a small
should
screw head.
The bit to be used in boring the hole for the threaded portion of the screw may be the common gimlet bit shown in Fig. 2B. In using such bits great care must be taken to have them enter the wood at the place intended. There is always a tendency to follow the grain of the wood and
12
where it is wanted it is best to make two marks crossing at the point where the hole is to be bored and have them long enuf to be
seen after the hole has been bored.
^^ -""*
Fig. 2B. Gimlet Bit
wood
as intended.
manufacturing work, the screw is started with a hammer and then finished with a screwdriver. This is a good way to insert small screws in soft wood. The flat head wood screw is used in the same manner as t he round head wood screw except that in hard
Often,
in
wood
is
a conical hole
Fig
?c Counters
-
bored to receive the head. The tool used in boring these holes is called a countersink and is shown in Fig. 2C. It is used in a bit brace. In selecting screws the length is given in fracThe diameter of the shank is tions of an inch.
given in numbers.
The number
{
five
screw
i<
a-
bout | inch, number ten about \ 'n; inch, number eighteen about %e inch in diameter of shank.
If grease,
not
oil,
of
some kind
easier
is
used
in
the
insert
and
also hold
The
Soap
is
13
purpose.
Grease ought
is
always to be used
when screws
A
it
matter which
is
screws
that
if
the screw
to hold properly.
to turn the
It
may
sufficient size is
made.
DESIGN
Nearly
of a
first
all
You should large variety of modifications study the design as given, not simply to fix in mind the shape of the parts, but to learn why Go carethe parts are shaped in such a manner. fully over every tool operation used in making the object. This will usually throw light upon the
reasons for the sizes or shapes.
After you have learned all you can by studying one design go carefully over all of the designs of a similar form, or containing similar parts. The details, such as the shapes of edges and
the sizes
and sracing
is
the last
and
if
vou
will carefullv
14
go over them in this manner you will gain ability to work out problems in design. The one fact to keep in mind is that designing
is
and working
with
all
not possible to proceed in the same manner designing, but the following may help to
be made. Second Decide whether you wish to economize on time in doing the work or wish to use any amount of time necessary to produce the best results. Third Estimate the amount of cash outlay. Fourth Select the material. (This will be determined not only by preferences for certain woods but also by expense and time.) Fifth-Compare the general size as compared with the type of article selected. (Consider 1 and 2.) Sixth-The chief dimension should be determined by the space which the object is to occupy or its specific use. SeventhCalculate the thickness of material for each part. Eighth Decide upon the relative size of top and bottom. Ninth-Sketch the outline of each part. Tenth-Determine the method of joining. This is decided somewhat by the preceeding steps in the
article to
Select the
process.
15
LESSON
LUMBER
This branch
as
is
of
schoolwork
is
is
called woodwork.
used
that
in
shopwork
is
know
cut
lumber
made by
down by chopping and sawing and are then taken to a mill and sawed into lumber. To those who do not understand the cutting of trees and the working of them into boards or other
lumber products the work appears
require no very definite knowledge.
case,
for
it
to
to
This, however,
not the
really
requires
great
deal
of
judgment as
Fig.
well as
3.
Ax
place the logs in the mill and
of
muscular strength.
to get the
To
work them so as
lumber
is
a matter requiring
deal of experience.
a great
The
*s
tools
used
the ax (Fig.. 3)
to fell the tree
used
about 6 feet
long,
have handles
16
sawed
into
is
comes from
is
sorted
Fig. 4-Crosscut
into different lengths, sizes
in
Saw
kir.d
place
a pile by
itself.
pine.
Other
many grades
as the pine,
is
all
about these
you
will
while working
it
you soon
will
and the
from a
the
common
for
soft
you require
your work.
cut
pine tree.
The
This roughness
usual to
(
may
be removed by
is
machine
one side
once.
called a surfacer
at
Fig. 5
Some
Some
sides at
four
How
17
Fig.
Surfacing a Board
2
to
LESSON
Hold the piece studied
observe the
little
INSPECTING MATERIAL
in
Lesson
Sometimes
these marks are very large and uneven; sometimes they are
A; they
are
made by
the
18
or nicked
is
made lengthwise
for
of the piece.
fine
marks
crosswise.
The
much
rougher than would be the case were the machine in good condition.
if
to
no matter how
plane.
No
when
matter
straight a surface
may appear
if
tested
by uJng the
there
mwHWHiiinuimiiifimiiiiiniiiw.
lii
tiniHlilltlltll!llll!f1I.UMMJIfl.ni!IT
Fig.
are any
machine marks
it
is
varnLh or any
clearly
fine as not to
machine marks
finish
than before.
Sometimes marks
Because
your
cf
which are so
will
plainly
arise
after
these
in the surfirst
lessons
how
it
to see
to
remove them.
Do
not be satisfied
by looking
by holding
up
all
you
19
LESSON
PLANE
The
tool
which
is
ordinarily
of small pieces of
lumber
is
the
the
7, called
a smooth-plane.
If
piece
larg
plane
c r
to
be
smoothed were
you
a the
might use
like
one shown in
Fig
8, called a
jack-p lane.
some
~:g.
smaller
Smooth Plane
Fig.
8 -Jack Plane
20
work
it is
After you have learned to use these properly you can study other
styles.
differ
and 8 show
9 shows
how
to take hold of
ordinary planing.
The
are
given in
10.
1
shows how
see
is
properly adjusted
Thelever9(Fig.lO)
P'ane Iron. FL ne iron Cap. Plane Iron Screw. Cap.
4
5 6 7 & 9 10
11
Cap Screw
Frog.
"Y
FropSc.cw.
Handle.
12 13
14 15
1
R#
Section cf Plan*
21
moves the plane-bit, so it will cut more nearly square across or more at one side or the other as desired. The milled thumb-nut 8 is used to move the bit endwise so it will project more beyond the bottom or sole of the plane, Your plane is probably or to withdraw it so it will project less. set just right for the work
you are to do, therefore do
not
move
or the
thumb-nut
In order to know which way to turn the milled thumb-nut try it by turning
in
it
move the
bit
downward.
Fig. 1
Sighting
the
begins to
remember how much you turn it before move the plane-bit. Do not attempt to do anything
little oil
on the bottom
gum
stick-
ing to
If
your plane
it
is
dull or
if it
to your teacher.
Your
first
work
in the
shop
is
to learn
how
to
make
the
and true
in all ways.
You
must learn
this
on a piece
22
to learn
how
1
to plane
and
in
in
Lessons
to
20 are used
working nearly every piece which you make and therefore you
should be very careful to follow them exactly as they are given.
Your speed
in making things later in the course will depend upon the thoroughness of your study of these directions. It is a common occurrence for a pupil who is thorough in his work in making the scale and bench-hook to make a table or bookcase in one-fourth of the time required by one who goes over the same lessons but does not study or understand them
thoroughly.
upon the
tool,
result of
school
much experimenting and experience with students shops and with practical men in actual trade work
You have
if
many
lines.
you are
to get the
own
effort.
way.
at a trifling
Given these
results
to learn
may
try to
lowing your
tried the
own
methods given
book.
LESSON
for
the one to be
planed.
'
side" one
of the
two wider
surfaces.
or
It is
first.
edges
'
..
Fig.
12 Piece
against Stop
wood
shown
off
the
If
portion indicated
the piece
is
of the
plane will cut from one or two high places, leaving the surface
24
shaving the entire length, do not go over the same place again
but move the plane farther over toward the right hand side,
taking a shaving as indicated in Fig. 15 and then another
Fig.
13
Fig. 1
Fig. 1
Fig.
16
Th
first
shaving
Lastly
still
remove a shaving from the farther side of the top surface (Fig. 17) and then examine it carefully. If the piece were quite smooth the planing would appear as shown in Figs. 18,
8 9
25
Examine the
how smoothly
the plane has cut and then turn the piece, placing the other
the
end against the bench-stop. Plane over the surface again in same manner as at first and then examine it. Compare the
Fig. 1
Fig. 1
Fig. 1
Fig.
20 Fourth
Shaving Removed
appearance
after the second time over with that of the first. Did the piece plane easier or smoother the first time or the second time? Sometimes you w.ll need to examine the piece very carefully in order to know which way will plane smoother.
26
S jmetimes the piece will plane very smooth one way and very rough if planed from the opposite direction. Some pieces will not plane smooth in
either direction.
This roughness
or smoothness in
planing results
from the grain
the
cf
Fig.
21 Straight Grained
Piece
wood
not be-
ing
parallel
wih
Fij.
the surface.
21
is
a picture cf
a piece in which
the
grain
is
it
(q^
F g. 23 Piece from Near a Knot
if
so
straight that
can
be planed in eilher
direction. Fig.
is
22
the plane
is
moved from A
stop
the
end
and the plane moved from B to A made rough. The piece shown in Fig. 23 will not
direction, for the grain at
in another.
is
in
As
it is
way which
will
make
the smoothest.
planing from
to A.
which you work you can judge the way of the grain before you plane. This will save both time and material.
carefully studying the grain of each piece
By
27
shows one
of
many
wood.
The
This knot
is
You can
easily
imagine
effect
how
the
grain will
bend
Fig.
24 Board
with
Knot
There are many peculiar freaks in the grains of different woods which you will learn as you work pieces of various sizes and shapes. Now that you understand how to examine the
grain and
face,
until
how
make
smooth
entirely across.
by the
20). After learning which way will plane the smoothest, plane
illustrations (Figs. 13 to
the piece only in that direction, no matter which end requires the most planing.
28
LESSON
You have now planed
smooth, and
square.
appears to be
try-
must
test
it
more
carefully
by using a
Fig.
25 Testing from
Edge
to
Edge
used
in
many
two
schools
parts.
Fig.
26 -
consists of
is
Try-square
called
thinner part
squares are
made
in
many
styles
and
but
all
the forms
29
woodwork
ordinary
are similar
to the
one shown.
The
I
try-squares
cabi-
for
use of
carpenters,
men
There
are
many
ways
of testing
is
them, but
for the
method
to test
try-squares
(Fig. 27).
or with
Hold
light
are planing
up
to the
try-square
surface at
surface
is
touches the
all
points the
as
correct
the
all
try-square does
not
is
touch
incorrect
and instead
of planing
matic manner as
at first
directed
|
Fi*
will
cut
off
the high
places only.
30
near the center of the cutting edge, therefore the center of the
cutting edge should be
Continue planing in
true as tested
by applying the try-square from edge to edge. is true from edge to edge, hold the piece
sight from
and
end
to
end
as
shown
in Fig. 29.
31
to see
if
the piece
is
straight.
Be
Usually to
After you
do
this the
shown
just
enough
to
to allow light
it.
pass under
straight-edge
in a
may be used
similar
manner.
In
grasping the
near the cerrer
straight-edge hold
it
as
shown
in Fig.
it
31 whether
be
on
both edges.
Fig.
3G Using the
Straight-edge
for
purpose
If
there
is
and stra'g'it-edge
piece
straight.
at
either
end
t'.iis
any other
point along the length, plane do vn the high places until the
is
In doing
is
that
enough on the toe of the plane in starting the stroke, and not enough on the heel of the plane in finishing the stroke. If the piece is low at the ends and you bear down on the plane
32
properly
will
has passed
and
it
will
cease to cut as
it
*
Fig.
3 1 Using
Wooden
Straight-
Sometimes
it
is
down on
move
it
forward or stop
the forward
movement and
it
lift
it is
before
it
ceases to
move forward
in finishing the
of the surface
stroke.
If this is
done, there
will
be no marking
of this planing
33
down
is
comes up.
This space
called the
mouth
34
move
quickly
in
order to
make
the plane
it
change the
the
set so that
will
movement.
very
Somerounding
times
it
is
necessary
to
grind
planes
shaving and
a
little oil
Sometimes
on
LESSON
You now have
enough.
In
is
not
it
good work,
first test
three ways.
test,
The
is
from
edge,
from end
yet
if
to end,
may
right,
and
you
upon a
flat
down upon
may
rock, or one
as
another
is
pressed^
the
I
down.
piece
When
is
not
in
is
true^
this
|
as tested
manner
to
it
said
be
"in wind."
is
This word
pro-
nounced with long Fig. 34-Pieceon Flat Surface Showing Wind i and means much
the
same as
rest
Fig.
would
upon a
how such a
35
looked
at
These pieces
first
much more
in
test piece,
and because
crookedness
is
quite visible in
the picture.
If
the piece
it
is
in
little, it
must be made
straight before
Winding Piece
trie
careiuny 10
also
Know wnat
If
is
meant by
is
in
wind or
the piece
correct
we
say
it is
out of wind,
or not in wind.
practical
way
to
examine a piece
wind
is
to held
it
up
in
shown
in Fig. 36.
of the
back
slowly in the opposite direction until you can just see the
back
edge.
If
the piece
is
true, or not in
wind, you
if the piece is in wind, one back corshow more than the other back corner. The corner which is more visible is called the high back corner, and must
ner
will
be planed down
until
alike.
36
mark
be at
first
an
upon
it
will
as at
and you
will find
Wind
you have examined the
teach you that
Mark
ally
if
and
if
surface properly you will have the two X's on the two diagonopposite corners.
is
This second
test
is
is
to
there
at
make
the surface
usually
true,
off
off
either high
corner, but
you
each
37
if
one end
plane
is
If
there
is
any be
the
had better
you
will
at
at
the thicker
end
at
so that
same time you are planing down the high corners and getting
In planing out of wind, work very carefully and test the
piece very often.
surface true, test
it
If
in these three
you have any trouble about making the ways after each shaving is
tests
removed.
you
will
waste
much
smooth as well
where you
atically, as
as true, but
start or stop
the plane, go
planed true.
Do
is
correct as tested in
if
make
it
correct
you
will
work
to neglect testing
it
often enough.
LESSON
After the surface has
FACE-MARK
been made
is
true
it
should be marked
so that you
also so that
know
is
it
trued.
used
for this
purpose
called a face-mark,
is
called a face-surface.
The face-mark
is
of
38
much
mark
character on the
first
is
shown
it
in
Fig. 37,
Usually
is
located near
r
Fig. 37-First
Face-mark
free hand.
to
it It
is
made
always ex-
both
edges.
is
The
is
which
will
extends
the one
and which
For
called a face-mark.
this reason
is
which edge
the
first
to
surface.
is to
pieces, face-marks
face-mark on each
piece.
LESSON
In all planing
plane
sharp.
You
not
only can learn to sharpen the plane, but you can learn also to
do something which
will
avoid dulling
it
rapidly.
39
surfaced, brush
and
dirt off
the
to
ning to plane
it.
By being
careful
plane
systematically,
you
will
true the
surface with
less
much
and
do
but
planing,
thus not
better
also
only
work,
will
use the
plane so
that
it
much less
remain
will
sharp
longer.
If,
much
using the
it
in
plane, as
is
drawn
Return Stroke
back the
cutting
of
will
be dulled.more
.
on
the
forward
stroke.
of this
Because
you should
lift,,
either
tilt
or
.
you
pull
it
back.
Fig.
38 shows
plane
that
is
how
l'fted
the
so
on
it
40
on the cutting edge of the bit. For most work this is the best way to hold it on the return stroke. Sometimes the piece is too narrow to permit of lifting it in It may then be turned to an angle as shown in this manner.
of the plane instead of
Fig. 39.
This
is
the usual
way
of
holding
it
in jointing edges.
The one difficulty about turning the plane in this manner is that you may neglect to turn it entirely back to a position parallel with the edges for the forward stroke. Be sure to guard against this, for if you do not it will take much longer to make the surface correct.
third
is
method, which
to
tilt
is
in planing
wide
surfaces,
Carefully
work
in
hand.
LESSON
The next
task
is
9 FIRST EDGE
edge
for a
to plane an
face-edge.
This
41
for straightness,
as
shown
in
Fig. 29.
bottom
as in Fig. 30,
examined the
edge by sighting
not
if
it.
or straight-edge,
and
if
it
as
shown
in
Fig. 41,
Be
partic-
fc
KJ
Fig. 41.
42
42, for
your success
will
of
your
but
it
wrist.
Do
edge,
lift
and
lower
at several
places.
Be
sure to
The
planing of
h e
same methods as
the planing of the
sur.'ace,
as
illus-
trated in Lesson 4.
Edge
This
is
also
an excellent opportunity
Fig.
Jtf
-Face
is
Mark
on Edge
to
as shown
in Fig.
12.
It
improper
of
the
It
true,
but
you
from
43
correct, place a
face-mark on
in Fig. 43.
it
pointing
It
shown
is
not
marks "meet
at the corner.
LESSON
The marking gauge
lines parrallel with
10
MARKING GAUGE
(Fig. 44)
It
is
in
drawing
an edge.
the
block,
or
^m.
ill
head, and
the
beam
To
or
bar.
the
<
keep
^^.
^-
parts in
place
""
there is a
thumb
'
screw or some
such
arrangein the
Fig.
U-Marking Gauge
ment
shape
["I
head.
The
is
line is
made by
shown
in in
the
spur
[~|
shown
Fig.
turers usually
fit
a coincal point.
Before the
is
not
pencil
Fig. J>2-Point of
Gauge Spur
fore
you wish
the
through
a a
pencil into
it.
The
Fig. 44.^
44
probably find
some graduations on
on your
If
the
side
of
the
to those
rule, but
Fig. J+6-Setting
Gauge
scale and, therefore,
if
may
you
head by the
scale
the
space
which
would
be
Because
to
it
is
not safe
use the
scale
on
Fig.
-Pocket Rule
it
beam you
the guage by holding
should set
and the
is
rule as
shown
in Fig. 46.
hand
so
that
the
and
the
thumb underneath,
with the
end
against
left
the guage -beam. Notice also that hand are around the gauge-beam, the
the
side
of to
the place
gauge
your
gauge head and the thumb against head directly below the beam.
hands
Be
sure
and
fingers
in
exactly
this
45
will
enable you
to
set the
As
lines are
made
to
work
to,
it is
make
diffi-
It is
is
Because
trying
conse--
much
fit.
time
If
afterwards
lines
to
make
the parts
the
had
been correct, the work could have been better done with
half
the
labor.
Be very
careful in
setting the
gauge and
drawing the lines and in making any other lines which you
require in your work.
If
you
will
examine your
will find
is
rule,
or a No. 62,
you
At
no attention
any
In the No. 84 rule these marks are along the brass binding.
Notice that the one-half inch marks extend about half way
across each side, that the one-fourth inch marks extend to or
and
inch marks are the shortest ones on the scale, extending about
to the first line.
rule, as all
Be
sure to
fix in
mind these
features of the
after this
general plan.
you become
markings you
Your next
bit of
face-surface
all
the lines
In this figure the outer lines represent the edges of the face-
46
be drawn.
The
which terminate
in
arrow
S
Fig. JtH-First Surface
Lined
line
lines.
has
at the lower or
line.
This designates
that the figures
on the dimension
line
tell
the
distance
line.
The 34
space
is
inch
sosmail
is
that there
not
between the
two
lines. The arrow heads
Fig.
are
therefore
lines,
them
to
intended.
The
figures
are
placed
47
drawing
are to be dawn.
in line with the two arrow heads. you are certain how the gauge lines The line lA inch from the face-edge is
until
may
set the
gauge
to
inch, holding
it
and the
in
rule as
shown
in Fig. 46.
bench-stop
in Figs.
as
jy.
shewn
50.
right
49 and
parallel
arm
the
is
with
piece
you
"
are guaging.
still
This
is
more
easily seen
in Fig. 52.
The gauge
be held so
must
its its
that
beam
ing
for
rests
upon
of
edge instead
rest-
upon the
if it it
spur,
rests
will
upon the
spur
be imposto
sible for
you
has
draw
Fig.
grain.
rest
an even
line in
wood
it
which
Fig. 5
its
uneven
to
of
is
rolled to
cause
upon
edge;
also
To learn to use the gauge, take the position shown and move the gauge from the upper to the lower end of the piece, but with the beam rolled so that the spur will not touch the wood. After making this
being perpendicular to the surface.
touch the
enough
In
make
use
full
line.
the
of
the
gau"e
of the
if
the
head
by
edge,
the
.Fig. 51-Rolled
as
indicated
in
arrow
Fig. 4 9.
Gauge
The
again s":
the face-edge
is
the head
s not
tight
against
the
be correct.
roll
Gradually
the
beam
until the
make
the
a line of the
properweight.
As
gauge
nears
may
(it
End of Line
in Fig. 52,
of the
in order
gauge.
Fig.
with
the
piece.
After
you
-inch-line
gauge
set the
to ){ inch
and
draw a
line
line 1
the face-edge,
and then a
1 ^2
line
inches from
Fig.
the face-edge.
53 Rolling Piece
at
End
of Line
LESSON
top of the bench against the stop.
stop.
11
PLANING TO WIDTH
Place the piece on which you have drawn gauge lines on
Do
not drive
it
against the
line,
making
try-
the piece
1%
line
inches wide.
to the line,
is
and the
is
correct,
50
sufficient,
test
in
it
by sighting
for straightness,
is
test of considerable
importance
to
several places
as
shown
in Fig. 54.
it
should be held so
is
being
against
measured.
end
of the
thumb
In using the rule, use the markings away from the end,
this
can be done.
is
at
the edge
by the facemark.
It is not
incorrect to
hold
it
so that
is
the opposite
edge.
Always
manner
for
measuring and
you will soon do
54 Measuring
the average mechanic.
little less
as accurate
measuring
as
is
You
will
than
2 y
inches.
If in
gauge you
set the
51
This
is
each side
of
some
width.
For
gauge
for
ness,
it
give
In
all
wider
by measuring the width of the piece, you discover at one end than at the other, set the gauge
line.
that
it
to the
Plane to
this
line
the
2 inch line. ]/
Remember
to test the
as well as
by measuring.
When
this
mark upon
this
edge.
The two
first
surface, (Fig. 3 7)
edge, (Fig. 43) are the only ones used to denote face-surfaces,
or that the surfaces are finished.
LESSON
Fig. 66)
12
PLANING TO THICKNESS
The gauge should now be set to 1}^ inches, (See Drawing and lines should be drawn along each edge 1%
Lines should also be drawn across
If
each end.
you stand
at
the end of
the bench near the bench-stop, you can place the piece against the stop in drawing the long lines and lay
of
it
down
at the
corner
ting the spur so that the piece will be full size after the entire
52
line has
planing the
first
surface you
is
planed away so
much
less
than
may
set the
entirely
The
may be
tested
by meas-
^^^^
|
also by
sighting for
if
straightness, but
you
the the
When
piece
is
i
_. -.--,.. Fig. 55 Lining Across End
A
tr;
j
test
in every
way
if
that
can, you J
to see
you J
in-
you
find
any
errors,
If
necessary,
test.
go back to the
surface
and true
53
LESSON
13
is
there
is
about
inch of
wood
projecting
of
the rule.
Do
this
not attempt to
measure
amount
jection,
in
1
of pro-
but
position,
of projection at
each end
nearly
as
as
you
FiS-
56 Rule
in
out
measuring.
the piece
is
finished, and
therefore their exact length
is
of
no
in
consequence.
Take your knife
yrur right
hard
| and
*'''"'"
"
make
a mane
Fig.
57
.,
Detail of Knife in
"/Z
"~
Hand
graduation and at
of the rule.
side.
and
should
this
extend
In order to do
Do not hold
Fig
58 -Bjnch kmje
thehandle extends
finger as
shown
in the picture.
The
kn
should have a
sharp point
simikr to those
Fig 59Pockei
shewn
Li Figs.
58and59. The
handle sbo?
1
small.
net equal to
good pocket
very
well.
do
]t
should be
kept with as
sharp a point as
the width of the
tg 60 Khife
a>;d Try-.q..aie
bLde
will per-
55
The
is
inches long.
Sometimes and
for
The pocket
is
The
little
lining.
The
large blade
Fig.
is
as are
used in racks,
chairs, etc.
rule aside
mark has been made at each 1-inch line, lay the and place the try-square on the piece; the head against the face-edge, two fingers on the blade, two against the piece, and the thumb against the middle of the head of the
After a try-square as
shown
in Fig. 60.
56
and
move
Be
careful to hold
in position,
is
draw a
line
entirely
lining.
Continue to draw-
lines in this
manner at each
head
of the
mark
until the
Reverse
try-
piece
and the
square, holdirg
them
as
shown in Fig.
drawing the
After
all
and finish
lines.
drawn
take
at
the
piece
and
line.
try-
If
that
62 Testing Lines
of
at
on Scale
knife
trying
if
it
to
crooked part
straight
line
the
line.
Keep
even
of
it is
you have a
injure
every
inch
does
the
appearance
that
you learn
to
draw the
to lay
lines
extra lines.
The next
step
is
off
the
57
from the
line
which
is
face-edge.
as in
Hold
drawing the
manner when
Test these lines in the same way as directed for testing the
1
inch lines.
(Fig. 62.)
ill
III
ill
TIT
,1
,1,
ill
iir in
,1,
.1.
in lid
-p
.1. Ill
1 1
III
lll
ill
ILE
1 |
ill
ill
ill
III
III
Fig.
63 Scale
Lay
which
is
off
the
Draw and test these lines the same as the 1 inch lines. Lay off and draw the lines at the }& inch spaces. You will need to be very particular about these lines or the spaces will not be equal. Lay the rule on edge on the piece and examine all the spacing carefully. If it is all correct, the scale is complete and will appear as in Fig. 63, and if not, you had better make another scale on the opposite side. Draw gauge lines on the back-side the same as you did on the face-side, being careful to hold the head of the gauge
against the face-edge.
of the knife
blade in the
end
of the first
move
same
as in
drawing the
(See
Next place the knife point in the end of this line and draw a line across the back side. If the face-edge is next to you, the knife may be held as shown in Fig. 65 in setting the
Fig. 64.)
try-square.
The
line
is
(Fig. 64.)
it
is
been drawn.
If
scale
of
fkf
to
enough
the
less
piece
to
allow
for
planing
off
the scale
Fig.
and
at
Corner
draw
the
off
lines
along
the
and plan
to
plane
off
poorer
one.
Be
have
gauge
of the
to
/ie
59
mark the half inches on the scale Extend these lines down on each
edge to the
which are
3 /i 6
lines
inch
#,:
| 1
knife as
Fig. 64
shown in
and draw
as
the
line
you
line
Fig.
were directed to
draw the
across
the edge,
that
at
Corner
except
you
edge.
now stop at the line which U SA G inch from the The piece will then appear as in Fig. 66.
should
-/"t
III
III
III
II
ill
!.'
i
1
'
ill
-r.~t
_l
Fig.
66 Piece
60
LESSON
SAWING
The back-saw
metal
is
14
'
67 Back-saw
are
can be used
the grain.
that
it
These
now seldom
is
much
and one to saw parallel with the hook on the bench and the
grain
13
upon
it
and upon
Notice
(Fig.
the
wood
edge
of the piece.
first
that the
finger
Place your
thumb
knife
which extend
Be
saw leaves
made by
Fig.
68
Holding Back-saw
61
length of the
blade, the lower edge of the side of the blade resting against your
wood but
not cut-
(Fig. 68.)
Move
Look
at
the angle
of the
of
This should
To
first,
assist
your
set
eye, at
you can
will
a try-square as shown in
Fig. 70.
serve that
You
if
obFig.
the move-
69
- Detail
ment
of Sawing
of the
saw
is
corjoint.
and the elbow the moving be supporting the saw with your hand.
you have studied
this
You
When
saw
just
movement
is
until
you under-
stand exactly
how
the motion
enough
to allow the
wood
at
the
to cut,
rigid,
at the
same angle
shown
in Fig. 68.
Move
manner,
wood on
let
it
cut a very
stroke.
little
still
lifting
on the back
makes)
you
lift
is
well
started
will
not
need
the
to
the saw on
The thumb
to
shown
in
saw
but
cutting close to
it
Fig.
70 Try-square
stroke
Side of
Saw
of the
wood.
At eac'i
Lr.vari
in
Fig.
ihown 71
After sawing a
little
more the
saw
tion
should
shown
in
Fig. 72.
Watch
Fig.
71-
63
and
as
soon
at the front
it.
edge to see that the saw is cutting close to it but not roughing Stop after each few strokes and examine the back edge. See
that the
it.
saw
is
On
on that
you wish
of
to
at
72
Sawing, Fourth
Position
of
Continue saw-
ing until the kerf extends to the lines which are 3/ieinch from the
saw exactly to these be bent and if the saw Fig. 73 shows cuts too far the piece will break instead of bend. the piece after it has been bent. Saw at the same side of each
bottom side of the piece.
careful to
is
Be
lines
and no
to
line
for
end
soon as
it
will
make
Fig.
73 Piece
Bent
84
OUTLINE
After completing the study piece
.
make an
will
outline showing
of great
will
this piece.
This
be found
bench-hook you
need
off
are
worked, the
in laying
and sawing.
65
LESSON
You have
learned to plane
all
15
BENCH-HOOK
four sides of a piece so that
the surfaces will be true and so that their ends will be of the
You can now use this knowledge in same size and shape making simple things The bench-hook requires but little knowledge beyond that required for making the scale, except fcr the end planing. Be
Fig. 74
Benchhook
exactly
as
directed
i?.
making the
order.
scale,
same
covered and
that
Try
you are
simply studying.
work,
it is
much more
how
If
you do your
many
finished.
It consists of
is
wood and
eight nails.
Fig 75
a mechanical
WOODWORK FOR THE GRADES
-T
i
.8+h
'
4!H
MnO
o
o
)
\
6?
In
this drawing,
each
nails.
you
They are shown in this one so that them correctly. You will notice that This is because they they are represented by dotted lines. The heads are full lines or circles, in the are out of sight.
will
be able
to drive
we
hook,
If
we
you
show (the
line is full,
front elevation
we
call it)
you
will see
a dotted line
of
From
wide piece
the
By
we
shows in
You
figures.
will
if you were bench and look down upon it. see between the views some fine lines and some
lines are made fine to distinguish them from the They terminate in arrowheads and are called dimension lines. The figures are for the purpose of giving
The
other lines.
the sizes
and
not to give the size of the picture or drawing, but the size of
the real
bench-hook.
size indicated
by the
figures,
Sometimes the drawing is made the but more often the drawing is
In drawings
for very small articles
the drawing
is
made many
Fig. 76
Jointing Edge in
Vise
69
you
will
in.
other parts of
made to the scale of three inches to the foot. You can measure the drawing and find that it is all made to a
is
scale of one-fourth.
a third
drawing
This
it is
is
called an
a small view
of
how
Read
sides.
all
As you do this work, see that every surface is worked in the same order as the study piece. (Lessons 4 to 14.) As the piece is too wide to rest against the benchstop, it may be held in the vise as shown in Fig. 76. If the stock which you have is too small to make a piece the size
and tested
called for
sizes as
as near these
lines f
you can.
for
Be
sure,
gauging
LESSON
After the piece
line
is
16
PLANING ENDS
finished
on
all
four sides,
draw a knife
so that the
entirely
(Figs.
64 and 65.)
in Fig. 77.
end
will
^
is
shown
The piece
70
because
center.
will
plane easier.
sight
cutting at the
as
shown
in Fig.
77 or 78.
The
some-
This
is
&
Fig.
-Planing an
if
End
at a different angle, or
will
cut better
held
in
edges as
Unless you are certain that some other angle should hold the plane as shown in the pictures.
in
71
and
then either reverse the piece or step to the other side as shown
in Fig.
78.
plane
is
between you and the piece, (Fig. 79) and see exactly
Fig. 78
Planing an
End
where you wish the plane to cut next. Third, always have a and stop so close to the line that there will be no unevenness, and yet the smooth, glassy surface made by the knife remain. This is not so difficult a matter as you may suppose, for if you will see exactly where each
knife line to plane to,
72
shaving
to
be cut, and
move
can look
ting,
into the
mouth
of the
how
it
is
cut-
time.
Test
the
I
Tsapmaatn^^Ksa^B^^^B^^a^^m
square, holding
Fig.
80,
and edge
against
the
as in Fig. 81.
sure
to
Be
the
use
edge
in
making
fail
these tests.
If
you
to
make
read
of
these
again,
directions
entirely
and
try
again.
and
re-lining
and
it
Fig.
is
' E:
mining End
it
but
study
that
wi
is
not
the work
After the
first
73
draw a
line
end
Saw
from the
Figs.
line
(See
64 and 65),
to
You
able to
should be
make
this
Try-square on Side
end
again.
to
you do
not,
then
and End
re-line
entirely
around
the
and
try
Although
have
than
the drawing
ous
mistake and
is far
worse
-*
leave
the
end
it
without making
square andsmooth,
or without
working
to
exactly
knife line.
the
Fig. 81
74
LESSON
MAKING THE
hook, take the piece which
wide, dress
directed in
it
17
SIDES.
After finishing the wide piece for the bottom of the bench
is
Proceed exactly as
the piece as wide
all
it
making the
it
piece.
Make
in
is
to
be ripped
center.
two, and
the waste
to less than
Do
not plane
1:L
/i(>
%e
will
As
this piece is to
in
be ripped
82.
in two,
marks as shown
Fig.
This figure
shows
edges
lines
drawn
the
around
for
n g.
line
ripping
by
;u*e, a inchesana
inches and draw the Unas
1
draw
lines
j/o
for
the
Vo
inch piece.
The piece is now ready to be ripped unless it is to be chamfered. The methods of chamfering are given in the next lesson. The following lessons on the ripsaw and ripping
should be
studied before attempting the ripping.
After the
In
case you
to
it.
line
draw another
line
and plane
75
LESSON
A
simple way
this
is
18
is to
CHAMFERING.
of
ornamenting a piece
in
When
places.
done as shown
Figs.
82
to 86,
is
called
chamfering.
Such beveling of corners may be used in many Chamfers need not extend the entire length of a
we
will
com-
fering,
lines
at
an equal distance
and on the
The
chamfer may be on
either
the face-sur-
For
this piece
is
End
same
dis-
the
chamfer
on
Usually the lines are the
In this
which are
to
be chamfered.
the
is
better, as
we want
cham-
76
fers equal,
we gauged
all
would not be alike unless the piece were the same width
each end.
Use a
pencil
ends as well
as
edges
In
(Fig. 82).
working the
chamfer,
86,
at
an angle
of
about
the
thirty-five
degrees with
should
edge.
It
be
moved
indi-
edge as
Testing
,.
Chamfer
^,
Plane
until
the beveled or
chamfered
to
line.
surface
extends
from
Test
of
it
line
the try-square as
in Fig. 84.
shown
Be
plane
lines:
careful not to
beyond
rather
the
leave
about
of
each
After chamfering
shown
In
in
Fig. 85
Chamfering
the plane
Edge
is
Fig. 85
and chamfer
working
the
the edges.
edges,
held
and
77
in
Fig.84 test
all
the chamfers
by
Fig.
measuring,
86.
They
all
should
of
be
the
if
same
they
if
width;
vary, see
you
the
can
find
mistake
correct
not
all
it.
and
fail
to
the
Do make chamand
Fig. 86
fers
alike
Measuring Chamfer
straijht
from
such work
is
LESSON
RIP
16
The
rip
shape in a picture.
saw and hand saw may appear the same size and Either style of back shown in Figs. 87 and
88
may
be used.
is
The
*-.
in the
difference
shape
of
the the
teeth.
As
across
Common Grades
of both
this
Hand
Shape
ting
the
teeth are shaped like the point of a knife blade. (Fig. 89 A).
78
The The
to those of a
hand saw.
of
shaded points
teeth. (Fig.
than hand
^flfl
IV ^^^
1
saws.
The
saws
for
is
fitting of
you
under
Fig.
Better Grades of
this
take unti
fami|iar
Shape
ou are
the
uses of the saws, as well as careful and precise with When your saws require fitting take them to an expert
fitting.
it
tools.
in
saw
Do not think
what
sort
of
work, rough or
fine,
you wish
it
for
and the
kind of wood.
fit
L
.
He will
A -Hand Saw
B-Rvp Saw
of Saws
Fig.
particular
wood and
saw
not skilful in
its
89 Teeth
will
one who
is
use.
LESSON
RIPPING
There are two ways
attempts
it
20
of this size
in
which a piece
may
be
for the
the piece
were wider
79
will
not be.
moved by
saw
in
the sawing.
Begin
the
same manner
sure to start
piece.
Be
See
Figs.
70
The most
to to
serious
likely
is
make
If
in
ripping
saw too
far
from the
far
line.
you saw
line
from the
because
will
saw
will
you
not
have a
sufficient
consequently
poorly.
will
saw saw
no
The
rip
should cut
smoothly,
is
therefore there
You should
strip at
line.
it
and a narrow
This
Fig.
should be as narrow as
Vm
inch
and perhaps
used, the
less.
If
amount
of
waste
where both pieces are to be more than required for one saw
two
k e rfs
piece
in
the
vise so oft
en by
kerfs
making both
at
the
same
time.
distance
down the
reverse
in Fig.
it
as shown
92.
As soon
end
the
of
piece
again.
of
This reversing
the
first
piece should at
be
done
t
sufficiently
often to avoid
saw-
ing on
th e
the worker.
As the
Piea Reversed
81
need
completed.
piece
as
shown
in
edges
93 Finishing
Ripping
will
appear as shown in
teeth of the saw
ings
at
made by the
different
the
angles
as
the
jointed.
Often
it
is
best to
is
cor-
jointed to the
new face-surface. The complete bench-hook (Fig. 74) shows the mark changed in
manner.
this
Fig.
94 Edges
ef
Sawed Pieces
82
LESSON
NAILING.
21
95)
the only
is
The common adzeye hammer, hammer required for your first work.
and the head
steel.
(Fig.
is
The handle
hickory
Both the face and the claws are tempered., The face, which
strikes the
nails,
is
tem-
pered much
harder than the
Fig.
95 Adz
claws.
If
the
The
if
sides of the
hammer
head are so
soft that
Starling Nail
Lay one of the narrow pieces upon the bench and start a 6d wire nail as shown in Fig. 96. Drive the nail Just enough Examine it carefully from two to make it remain in place.
83
examining the
bit,
If
the
move
with the
then drive
it
very
little
it
amine
but a
Be
a time,
it
to allow of placing
before the
it
is
so far in
will
at-
move
it.
Fig.
97 Locating Nails
in this
manner.
The
To determine how
far from the
edge
to drive
them,
r
Fig.
piece on the
narrow one and
then judge the
center of
the
Mark the
loca-
with a pencil.
Drive the
98 Piece
in Position
cnrugh
of the
to
edge
it is
is
even or
flush, as
of the
drive
one
nail a
little.
Examine the piece carefully and if correct drive anothernailalittle. Continue driving the nails a
little at
a time
and examto
ining
the
piece
it
be
in
g Nail
with Nail
Head
is still
After
the nails
wood,
99,
set
them by using
it
striking
hard
may be
nailset,
set
as
shown
are
in
Fig. 100.
There
styles
of
several
nailsets,
the
shown
in Fig. 101.
Fig.
85
same manner.
to
'
""
'
-^m
Fig.
flush.
If
101Nailset
Fig. 1
own
in
a very
little
to
make
will
You
see that
to
smooth the
than
joint
when
does not
to
may be
03 Withdrawing Nail
hammer as shown
in Fig. 103.
86
LESSON
Now
that
22
of
how
planes
are
Be-
iron
the
how they
them
are placed
to return
and be able
to place.
To remove
Fig. 1
the
04
Lifting
Cam Lever
will
cam
with the
finger
thumb and
iron,
and
lift it.
This
place
it
on the
105).
Pull the
Fig. 1
05 Loosening
and tighten the screw. Place the oilstone in the vise and grasp Rub it backward and the plane iron as shown in Fig. 107.
87
at exactly
The angle
greater than
at
which
at
it
little
that
which
it
has been
which
it is
held in
the plane.
To be
plane
set
bit,
you may
Fig.
1
oilstone
107)
at
which the
while whetting
hold
at
less
which
it is
held
in the plane.
Theanglemade
in
Fig. 1
grinding must
07 Whetting Plane
Bit
be
less
considerably
than the angle
need not
become accustomed
to cut a
may be
first
work the
this
produce
at
the
f.r t
other edge.
Li sharpening plane s as in
Fig. 1
all
other
08
End
of Plane Bit
is
an ang'e to
the surface
or
b'.t
should be done.
At
first
by looking
the fine,
is
smooth
part
cutting and
as this line
As soon
first
by draw-
Fig.
109
Edge
Fig. 109.
This
is
to see
if
the edge
A
it
wire edge
is
a fine
to
edge which
is
is
so thin that
bends or turns
oilstone.
it
is
produced.
visible.
is
scarcely
It is
much
exagger-
shape.
Fig. 1 1
0-
oilstone.
to
y the plane
bit
on the
flat
side and
move
it
shown
in Fig. 111.
This
may not
first
time trying.
bit
on
side to
held
down,
flat
on the
for
if
stone,
you do not, a
small
will
Fig.
angle
be made,
Ill
on
this side of
the edge
which
will
do much harm.
(Fig. 112.)
Hold the
107 and
move
it
it
forward,
at the
same
whetting
it.
This
will again
Continue
rub
the
edge
112
lightly,
as in Fig. 107
and then
it
as in Fig.
edge
is
removed.
Examine
at
it
often both
by looking
EMBSS5MSS$SBBMgSS&tt
and by drawing
as in Fig. 109.
it
which way
edge
the edge
is
turned,
Watch
removed
end
It often
As soon
is
as
shown
If
in Fig.
113 and
test
it
ty drawing
it.
thumb over
sharp
it
the same
is
Another way
edge on a piece
of pine.
surface, the
is
edge
is
sharp.
This
it
on
it
Fig.
test
it
much
easier
and quicker.
91
After finishing on the oilstone the edge may be improved by rubbing lightly upon a piece of leather (Fig. 114) as it was rubbed on the oilstone, except that it is lifted from the
leather or strop
the
is
edge as indicated by
the arrow.
When you
that the
are sure
is
edge
sharp,
lower end
about %a inch to
%a inch
and press
Fig. 1 1
4 Stropping Plane
in Fig. 11
below the
the plane.
Try
it
en a piece
of scrap
wood and
BIT.
becomes so blunt
manner.
that
is
cannot be
easily
sharpened in
this
it
There
so
much
at
requires too
it
will
is
held in the
plane that
not cut
when
large
amount
is
held on
much
as
shown
115.
in
Fig.
Do
tempt
enough
for use,
edge
oil-
with the
Fig. 1 1
stone.
to have
Be
sure
plenty
of water
on the grindstone so
moisture
cff
be
Be
returning
them
to the plane.
LESSON
Fig. 116 Fig.
is
24
CUTTING BOARD
a drawing of a cutting board with plain edges. a cutting board
117
illustrates
The two
used
in cutting
bread or meat
etc.
in
making them
one board.
much
unless so large
for
that
this board,
made
the
first
74) you
should be
to
abb
make
a cut-
ting board, or
-12-
*W-
any similar
board, as well
as a
good me-
chanic.
Make
00
complete scale
drawing of the
board you wish
to
make.
Be
Fig. 1 1
careful to fol-
Cutting Board
directions
to a reference, look
it
it.
low
all
come
study
stand
until
you
under-
side
of
the
board
it
and plane
as in
sur-
true, testing
and planing
first
Follow
to
17,
on account
it
of the size.
In
planing a wide
better to place
Fig. 1 1
pi*
ce
it
usually
7 Cutting Board
shown
in Fig.
118.
is
The plane is moved straight across The amount of the angle determined by the way of the grain.
piece
should be turned and
in
most
high corners.
is
in the
same man-
bench-hook piece,
too wide for your
gauge.
ranged
Some gauges
ar-
wide pieces,
little
Cross Planing
at
if
yours
is
too short.
Lay
you
to
If
have a straight edge, you can draw a pencil line from mark
be necessary
to
if
you are to
rip the
p ece.
Figs. 184
If
to hold a
off,
there
is
be dressed
to
end
until the
95
Next gauge the thickness of the board and dress the oppoIn working such pieces where usefulness is not side.
it is
but
to set the
the thinnest
cor-
same
of the
as
the
ends
bench-
of Board
lines.
to
sand-
papering
If
cham-
LESSON
25
SANDPAPERING
There are a number of kinds and grades of sandpaper. The only kind required for your first work is what is called flint paper or The grades you require are, Nos. sandpaper.
l T /2, 1,
and
0.
finer grades
than
1
coarser than
No.
are
1.
'
These papers
made by covering
96
of
coating
of
some
is
abrasive
subif
flint.
The paper
amount
little
of rubbing.
is
hand
partly
it
is
rubbed over.
wood
it
fills
cut
smoother.
well as a matter of
new for finishing. You will find it an essential to the economy to use sandpaper until it
worn out.
Fig.
To do
prevents.
either
this
you should
upon a certain
size piece
and
always tear the paper to that size unless the nature of the work
The
small pieces
or in the
of
on a block
as
hand.
it
When
a block
is
used the
hand
shown
in
Fig
120.
which
block
is
is
as a rule
used only
is
upon
large surfaces.
If
no block
used,
the sandpaper
and
to the
same
size.
97 9 inches
by
10^
each
inches,
and
it
Ay 2
saw or
by 5} inches. This is done by laying a down, upon the bench top, placing a backsome other small saw across the sheet at the center and
inches
at
then pulling up
one corner,
as
shown
in Fig.
121.
Do
not
use the rule in determining the center of the sheet, but place
Fig.
21 Tearing Sandpaper
Tear each
half
again and you will have four pieces of proper size for use.
Just what grade of paper should be used cannot be staged
until
of
has
been dene.
to
Usually No.
or
No.
or
2 y
is
coarse
for
enough
If
for surfaces
\y 2
No.
ends.
the wo.k
is
finer grades.
is
used,
Only by experimenting
98
will
select
Soft
wood
usually requires
To
produce
No. 00 paper
required.
finish first
116)
Use
it
the paper on a
120,
moving
lengthwise of the
or edges.
will
Be very
careful not to
be
Fig. 1
22 Sandpapering
Surface with
Hand
in the center
edge than
a block, lay the block aside and take the piece in your
hand
as
shown
in Fig. 122.
Examine the
edges and smooth any spots that were not properly smoothed
with the sandpaper on the block.
paper as shown in Figs. 123 and 124 and smooth the edges.
mark
of
shiftless
workman.
at
To
flat
Do
not
retain the
fin-
gers in the
same
place on the
sandpaper, but
change
position
their
often.
Sometimes the
sandpaper
is
held as shown
in Fig. 125, but
usually a block
is
not required
Fig.
with
Hand
used
it
Sometimes the
held with both
work
hands
is
as
shown
is
in Fig. 126.
is
The chamfer
a chamfer
sandpapered
in the
it is
same manner.
Because
care
narro v
and because
remain sharp,
much
is
it
needed
properly.
to
sandpaper
how
this is
done.
first
In your
attempt
stop
at
sandpapering,
quently and
fre-
examine the
rule
and the
rapidly
how
changed by the sandpapering. If you do the work properly, the surfaces will
be
as square
and
25 Sandpapering Edge
Narrow Block
with
If
try
sandpapering ag
iin.
Be
make such
been used,
particles of grit
wood
the plane.
101
as
shown
in Fig. 128.
Move
from the
Go
slowly, be-
and you
will
edge
farthest
from you.
Do not attempt
for
if
to
with
in this
of squaring
it.
is
folded
the paper at
first.
The
of
127
Sandpapering Chamfer
the wood.
One
diffi-
work
is
surfaces
near the
ends;
therefore
ends
less
sandpapering,
much
the paper
is
cutting.
Fig. 1
2 8 Sandpapering End
of
kind of wood, size of cylinder and the planing that you must deter-
paper.
If
it
fi
ttf^
29 Sandpapering
Cylinder
enough
plane
to
remove the
Follow
marks.
Fig. 1
is
produced.
103
consists
of
operations
first,
the
removing
of
the
plane
wood
As the paper cannot be folded around the edge without injuring the surfaces it is held on a block and the block mo^ed across the plane msrks at the same time it is moved lengthThis has much the same result as lollwise. S-e F'g. 130.
ing the cylinder in
the folded sheet of
paper.
After the plane
moved
is
in this
) the
way
edge
(Fig. 13
rubbed
length-
paper
first
on the
Fig.
130
Sandpapering Rou
More than
one grade
ance
cf paper will be required to give a proper finish. As you work with sandpaper you should watch the appearof the surface to learn
are affected
of
by the rubbing.
how the different grains cf wood You should compare the effect
scft,
on end
grain
and
In sandpapering woods having a hard close grain, alternating with a soft porous grain, the sandpaper must be used without a block, for a block will cause the soft porous grain to be
104:
cut below the harder grain and a proper finish will be impossible.
upon the firm parts of the surface. This requires so much skill that woods having great contrast ii grains Such use is should not be used in elementary school work.
certain to give incorrect ideas of finishing
Lastly
fully
and to do much harm. and most important, see how little rubbing, caredone, will produce the smooth satiny surface suitable for
fini h.
receiving the
He who
motions
is
LESSON
faces.
26
flat
SANDPAPER BLOCK
Fig. 131 illustrates a rectangular block for use on
sur-
The block with the thin edge (Fig. may also be used on a flat surface,
especially adapted for narrow spaces
but
is
or edges.
Fig. 133 will
in corners
be found convenient
after
for
use
and in smooth-
ing
rounded ends
Fig. 134
131
is
for large
Rectangular Block
be carefully made,
all
and square,
Follow
Fig.
planing surfaces,
first
lessons.
132
105
wide and
y%
inch thick.
Sometimes a
soft
pad
is
placed
not best.
them down
to a true surface.
Fig. 1
in
This
is
often an ad-
be used in school
work.
The
straight
will
smooth block,
if
Use
Large Curves
properly used,
produce a better
surface, especially
on woods having a
coarse
mahogany.
LESSON
The counting board
for
is
27
more than a study piece,
is
COUNTING BOARD
scarcely
really
nothing.
As
value
counting board
is
of considerable
it
is
made according
it
to the drawing.
for
if
(Fig.
136.)
Do
not
make
less
you attempt to
106
much
less
than
1 1
you
will
Fig.
If
you wish to do
this,
read
all
that
/ /
'*
o o o o
H^S-frS* T
Fig. 1
o o o o G-+0 o o
o o o o o
o o o o o
o O o o o o o o o o
3 6 Counting Board
sure to
all
The chamfering is done as directed in Lesson 18. Be make every chamfer straight and of correct size. Keep
106A
The
how few
to make in truing the first surface and first edge. The fewer the shavings the better workman you will be considered. In your first work you have had so many new lessons to learn that a long
time was required in which to true a surface or joint an edge. Now that those lessons have been learned, you should be able to do such work even better than at first and in much less time. Use. This gameboard may be used for games with marbles. Some holes are made large enuf to receive and retain a marble when thrown at the board and some holes are made entirely thru the board. A variety of bits should be used including the one inch size.
Size.
is
in Fig.
14
by
by IViq
inches.
These
sizes
136A in have
been found very satisfactory, yet other sizes may be us -d. These sizes will be found not only suitable for the gamebuard, but also the best to use in teaching the lessons in truing surfaces and boring holes.
108B
Chamfering.
ial test in
to give a spec-
make
from line to line as shown by testing with the try square in Fig. 48. Read carefully the lesson on chamfering, page 57. Boring. All the directions for use of bit and brace in Lesson 28 should be studied before beginning boring. Each pupil may plan the
arrangement of holes in his board and also the sizes. If after the board is completed as planned the holes are not
well bored, other holes
may
be made. This should be continued until the pupil can bore properly. Fig. 136A Gameboard. This problem affords an excellent opportunity for the first lessons in the study of simple problems in mechanical drawing. A drawing may be made showing the entire surface of the piece with the holes. It may be made
full size, half size,
or one-fourth size.
The
107
gauge
the face-edge.
Lay
off
on one
holes and with a trysquare and knife draw short lines across
each gauge
If this is
done properly,
besides
for
places
marked
for boring,
LESSON
BORING
besides
28
in boring holes
will
making the brace go around. thoroughly and in its proper order you
quite as well as the
If
you
study each
will
ordinary mechanic ,
First
examine
the purpose of
Fig. 1 3
7 Bit-brace
and the
differ
bits,
each part.
The
fits
be bored.
bit
only in length.
being easier
to use,
the beginner
in
all
may be used
bor-
but
at
present
we
will
auger
bit (Fig.
138).
The screw
into the
wood.
The
spurs
A A cut
CC cut
at
opened
and shank.
The
sleeve
held tight.
of
con-
In order to see
is
held
shown
is
charged
to
vertical
Then
in the direction
of
a watch move.
of
140Bormg
in the
to the
end
as
Examine the
bit
same
as before.
Move
see
if
you judged
correctly.
Turn the
bit
Be
at
careful to
examine the
at the
end
and one
Con-
pleted.
Fig.
141
Boring
trysquare
three
changes
of
position
are
ample.
less
Use the
and
less until
you
until the
over
and
finish
Be
quite
careful in finishing
110
LESSON
The
first
29
BREAD BOARD
work on Fig. 143
is
is
116.
laid out
by
end
To use
Fig.
it
as
at
shown
in
145,
the blade
Do
the edge.
Lines
on both
on the
Fig. 1
may be drawn on but one face or and edges." The lines edges may be drawn with the
surfaces
43 Bread Board
Fig.
manner
or the
gauge may be
set
and
shown
in Fig. 146.
which
lines
may
sur-
be drawn on the
back or under
face.
holding the
.,,'/
hook
Fig.
as
shown
in
Fig.
147.
After
sawing,
plane to
You
will
is
notice
for the
more
need there
plane to be
held
at
an
If
is
angle.
**""
*
^
--
the edge
tapered
very
much
the plane
should be
held parallel
with the
edge. Fig.
Fig.
146 Gauging
Corner
148 shows
how
piece
is
This piece
112B
selected.
them
fit
closely
Complete the chamfering before cutting Remember that the lower ends must against the top of the base and do your
the
best to
plane
Rpad
Fig.
Drawing of Bookrack. The drawing, Fig. 148A, and the drawing of ends, Fig. 148B, are simply to suggest sizes and designs. Better make a complete drawing of your own and design some ends differing from any of those shown.
Three wood screws should be used in each end. Usually No. 8 F H bright screws will be sufficient, but sometimes No. 10 will be better. Their length, if the work is carefully done, may be 1 14 inches. Sandpapering. Read the directions for sandpapering in Lesson 25. As the ends fit against
make both
you
will
the surface of the base you will not only need to the lower end of the end pieces and
the surface of the base very true
,
by planing but need to be very careful in sandpapering not to change the shape. Read the directions for using screws given on page 9.
113
LESSON
Fig. 149
is
30
Such edges may
on the
ROUNDING AN EDGE
a view of a
rounded edge.
articles as well as
To round
surface,
the
edge, after
it
pencil line along the center with a gauge and a line on each
at
and held
as in
chamfer.
(Figs. 83 to 85.
Fig.
50 Section
of
Round Edge
The
Fig. 1
difficulty in
is
rounding an edge
49 Rounded Edge
it
chamfering.
make the
sur-
difficult to
making the rounded edge, you will make it too straight, unless you attend closely to the form. Fig. 150 illustrates the difficulty by showing an edge, the darkened portion indicating the material to be removed in rounding it. By examining this illustration you will see that very little of the s'ock is cut away near the lines and tint much less is removed than would be if a chamfer were made between the same lines.
114
LESSON
SHELF
the
31
cutting board.
board.
The
pieces,
you
long
trimming
corners
and
be
In
When
planed
at
a piece
is
too long
to
foot in
one
position,
be used.
times
to
it is
when
it is
be planed, the plane is started in the usual way and then kept moving by taking one or more steps so
the piece.
is
that
The
is
usually
followed
to
planing
long
sf
Fig.
is
by done by beginning
across; then
plane them
and
still
151 Shelf
been planed.
115
first
section planed.
Fig. 153
..., ......
m
Fig. 1
52 First
Section Planed
surface after
it
and lowered.
The
Fig. 1
53 Second
Section Planed
darkest places
Fig. 1
54 Third
Section Planed
cally.
fine
lo
116
visable
runs out.
The
the
manner.
may be dressed on both surfaces in the same The edges should be finished by taking a shaving In sawing pieces of this length they may entire length.
shelf
Fig.
shown
in
155.
bench-hook (Lesson 16). The corners of this shelf may be cut off where indicated by the dotted line; being done as in
making
Fig. 143.
117
LESSON
SHELF
32
The new feature of this shelf (Fig. 156) is the curved The edge may be lined either free hand on the surface, by making and using a pattern, by use of a strip of wood
edge.
and two
nails,
or a nail
and a
pencil, as
shown
in Fig. 157.
Fig.
156 Shelf
The-nearer straight you wish the curve the greater the length
of the stick or
In your
at the
first
attempts at drawing
The
:^;'~
w'--U.-.
ij4pm
'
''..!:!
;;;::;;
V- rs*
;'-^^P P
X
is
'"v-""'-'"'"'-'^
;
.v
,'.-':-
.'
Fig.
157 Drawing
Circle
curve
made by
is
called an
arc of a circle.
The
the
com-
same curvature
one
the
end
the
of the she!f
and
rip
along
curve,
ripping
off
saw
If
is
curve and
them.
as
shown
fi
in
You
will
f
i the
working
such curves.
Be careful
to plane to the
line, for
short
any
variation
badly.
shelf
This
may be
shown
in
Fig.
Fig
49
159 Planing
Curve
119
LESSON
If
33
MANTEL SHELF
you have made successfully
all
make
this shelf.
Work each
piece
Fig.
160 -Mantel
Shelf
Fig. 1
61
120
shown
apart,
you
will
be
in
make them
nicer
and
piece separately.
The holes
in the
6 inches
is
This
to
make
house.
In any
^N
change of size or form which you plan you should keep this space
the same or use
some multiple
Fig. 1
63
of this space.
be modified
yet the shelf
tools
and processes
as
you
to-
already understand.
In fastening the
parts
#1 TIT
gether,
to the
first
shelf to the
Fig. 1
62 Mantel Shelf
121
LESSON
A
34
SWING BOARD
swing board though apparently a simple thing to make
and one which can be undertaken at any time is by no means as simple as it appears and should not be undertaken until all
the work up to Lesson 29 has been successfully accomplished.
Fig.
164
Swing Board
164) follow the directions
i:i
for
these lessons.
To woik
Fig. 1
65
Swing Board
122
y
2
These
lines
are
at
the
edges
of
Form
at
the ends.
and sawing on
sawed.
just as
shaped
opening
is
the hole.
LESSON
This
is
35
FOOTSTOOL
the most simple form of footstool.
Its
beauty
lies
in simple outline
and
perfect finish.
Be sure
to select
lumber
is
which
will
finish
nicely.
is
Oak
suitable.
Whatever wood
that
it
sawed so
uill
not warp.
for
making
the sur-
(Fig.
116).
Be
careful to
it
make
and smooth.
After planing
as directed in
making
or torn
the
may
still
be uneven spots
as fine as
grain.
set
it
make
it
sufficiently
smooth
for
for
For directions
using a scraper
The
legs are
first
The
doweling or inserting
if
the
would need
may be
used.
is
to use dowels, as
shown
in Fig. 170.
dowels are
to
be used place
as
shown
in Fig.
167,
the face-
and make
at
two marks
the
end
leg,
of each, outer
surface of
each
holding the
knife as shown,
making the
marks clearly on
Fig. 1
66 Footstool
on the top so
draw
in
them mark
in the
as
each mark on the top and draw lines as shown in Fig. 169.
The
as
deep
as
of the
bit.
of the legs
them
Fig.
and the
tight
down
often easier to
force
clamping instead
but one dowel
is
used
in
each
leg it may be located in the same manner as the screw. (Fig. 171) The other method of securing
the legs
is
shown
in Fig. 171.
Screw fastenings
be used
in
of this sort
may
Fig.
many
places.
Fig.
172
a drawing showing
the leg
if
the
Drawings
tional
drawings
or
sections.
driven
Fig. 1
68 Setting Gauge
125
is
is
of
enough
to rest
to allow the
head
of
on the bottom
be
the hole.
It is essential
of the
required depth.
A
in the
piece of metal as
screw head
is
then
Fig.
the hole.
This
is
shown
in Fig. 172.
It
may be
point of
This
piece of metal
to
keep ihe
screwed to
the top.
The hollow
glued in place.
pin must be
Place glue
on the
also
and
on the
that
Place the
the
slot
in
the
70 Inserting Dowels
down
it
screw head
fits
over the
piece of metal.
Drive the
hollow pin
f.rmly to the
head
of the screw,
using a block
with a hole in
125B
Sizes.
11
inches to 14
The
legs
from 11 by may be
square.
from 6 to 8 inches long and from 1% to 3 inches Usually the legs should be tapered. The height may be increased by thick upholstering.
footstool
Making FcotstcoL The woodwork for this may be made the same as that of Tig. 166, but the construction shown in Fig. 173B is usually better when the top is to be upholstered.
Whichever plan
of construction
it
is used, U the top should not be finished. Top. In making a top like Fig. 173B either one, two, or three pieces may be used for the body or top piece. The under side of the top which fits against the cleats should be straight and out of wind, but the upper surface may be rough.
is
to be upholstered,
Cleats.
four inches.
of
The cleats may be of any width over They should be out of wind, and
Screws. The legs are held in place by four F.H. bright screws in each leg. Each cleat should be secured to the top by five or more screws. Legs. Anothe; method of making the legs is to begin with a piece large enuf for all four.
It
is
first
wide enuf for two legs and the waste in ripping. The ends are then squared. Next the piece is cut in two and ends squared. Each piece is then ripped in two and two sides of each leg tapered.
127
LESSON
SCRAPING
It is
36
of
common
dif-
cabinet scraper.
ficult tool to
It is
not a
use
propFig. 1
but
it
is
in
order.
It
may be
74 Cabinet
Scraper
held
as
shown
in Figs. 175
Sometimes
it is
moved
in the opposite
direction
in
as
shown
177
Figs.
and small
hands,
pull
it
you and
necessary to
75 Using
rection,
Scraper, Pulling
you
should usually
of
either
the piece.
You
its
which
it is
'chattering' '
or
making small
irregularities
the surface.
is
same
The more
you
at the
will
it
longer
sharp.
It
will
keep
the surface
Fig. 1
on any
7 6 Using Scraper,
Pulling
moved
as in planing or against the grain.
It is
it
is
so useful for
both directions.
Only by using
a tool
see
exactly
it is
where
Do
is Fig.
not scrape
necessary.
more than
Some places
no scrap-
177-
will require
ing;
some
Someis
times you will need to scrape places which are smooth, in order
to
make
grain
lines
Fig. 179
The lines
are placed on
and
to
at different
angles
indicate
how
the
Lines
beusedatthetwo angles
in succession.
Some-
Fig. J
78 Using Scraper,
Pushing
be made
at
After surface
as directed in
Lesson 25.
Fig.
79
Piece Lined to
Show Method
of Scraping
130
LESSON
TABORET
oret.
37
in the
to
far
be gained
making
is
of a tab-
is
you are
the taboret.
you attempt
is
to
too
diffi-
you
will fail
to learn
The
for
taboret illustrated in
is
Fig. 180
difficult
enough
It
the
first
attempt.
requires
no
tools with
familiar
which
and you
make
and
correctly every
joint.
little
makes
difference
first.
by making
first
the top,
then the
rails
and
last,
the legs
The top
The
is
is
made
to dress
may be made in either of three ways. One way up a piece a little more than four times the length
131
one
rail
and
as thick
and
wide as the
rails
are to be.
The ends
then
of this
piece are
squared, to be sure
and 81.
end
leg.
will
make
a good
Be
sure to follow
all
11-
two pieces
of proper length
cut
off.
The
is
ff
two
rails.
Another way
these four pieces
of
is
making
to take
square on edges.
all
surfaces
and
In order to make
the same length,
Fig.
them
all of
181
Taboret
two
lines
shown in Fig. 182 and draw making the lines exactly the distance apart which you wish
the length of the pieces to
be.
that
Plan,
if
you can, so
be very
that
will
one
line will
close to
one end, so
After the
two
lines are
drawn upon
draw
lines entirely
around
82Lining Ends
ing
first if
necessary.
See
Lesson
16.
to dress a piece
little
more than
to allow
one rail,
waste in ripping.
edges and
width.
Rip
as
Fig. 1
apart the
same
83-Ripping Rails
This
is
good way
for
to
make
each
is
all
of the
same
To use
directions
pieces wide
all.
enough
in
two
rails
probably
In order to do
as
this,
follow the
same
for jointing
making the
is
it
sides of the
bench-
hook.
width,
If
the stock
is
some
make
will
By comparing
see
how
to
As the
short
at
piece shown in
Fig. 183
it
is
can be held
made
is
so long
Fig.
184
Ripping Legs
jaw in ripping the
rails
must be
of
moving
piece
a
end
of the
off
If
vary in length
little it
That
is,
The
to
legs
may be made
in the
same manner
or bent,
as the rails.
will
you
need
be
They must be
square, or the
134
not
fit.
In making the
enough
and
for all.
and edges
and
Then
waste there
at the center.
(Fig. 183.)
In ripping pieces
of this
all
thick, or
may be
Figs. 91
that
it is
reversed, as in
and 92 except
held in the vise
as in Fig. 184.
In order
sufficient
to
saw
at
angle to
owshow
the piece
is
tipped as the
After
Finishing
all
the
parts
surfaces which
be stained
or finished.
ends
of
Ends and surfaces which form the legs and the inside of the
Only a strip near the edge need be sandpapered. This affords an excellent opportunity to demonstrate that you know how to sandpaper, keeping all the surfaces and edges true.
should not be sandpapered.
of the
bottom side
of the top
135
LESSON
After
all
38
ASSEMBLING TABORET
the parts are ready to put together, set the legs
on erd in the position in which they will be when nailed in place, and mark an X at each side where a nail is to be driven These into the side of a leg to secure the leg to the rail.
marks are not
to
give the
show you
at
are to be drawn.
end
of the
gauge to one
half
Fig. 1
the thickness of a
rail,
gauge
line
on
each leg
at
You
will notice
that
these lines
are not
on
surfaces
Lay the legs side by side with their top ends even and draw pencil lines to mark position of the nails. (Fig. 194) If you have made the rails of proper width, one line will be 2
136
and the other 2 inches from the end. draw lines from the ends of these lines to locate the holes on the other side. Place each leg in the vise and drill holes for the nails as
inch from the end,
After removing the clamp,
shown
in
Fig.
186,
using an automatic
Fig.
dri11 -
If
Y ou
dri11
each
where the
lines,
lines cross,
drill
piece, therefore
above the
as
shown
in
the
figure.
The automatic
(Fig. 187)
is
drill
worked by
point in
placing the
position,
drill
Hold
ends of
the
rails
properly.
same
as in nailing the
bench-
188.
Hold the
and
Fig.
8 8- Nailing
Together
137
end
of
the
leg flush
is
with
the face-edge
first
of
the
it
rail.
driving
but a
and then examine the piece, and, if it is all right, drive little. Examine the piece again, and if corNail the leg to the opposite end
that before driving the
second
the
for
nail, the
piece
should be
examined
(Fig. 189)
same
wind.
as in looking
Nail the
second
same
nail
are
heads about
1&2
inch,
101)
Nail
blocks
as
into
each corner
in Fig.
190.
shown These
Fig. 1
89
may be made by dressing a square piece long enough for two blocks. The two opposite corners should be square and face-marked. After the piece is squared, it should be ripped in two, by ripping from corner to corner, or diagonally through the piece, (Fig. 191) Each half is then cut for
glue blocks
Such
stronger,
as well.
These
If
they are about the size shown in the drawing, (Fig. 181), they
will fulfil their
purpose.
right
fits
the
corner
must be exactly a
square.
Drive
several
each block.
These brads
of
may be
different
ones beingusedinthe
thicker part of the
block.
The brads
sur-
They
se-
90
should
then
be
Do
You may
find
it
necessary
midway between
block.
these,
to use in
This
will
permit of screws
139
Read what
is
said about
When
Measure
edge
of the top
measurements
are equal, or as
nearly so as
ble.
is
possi-
Put a screw in
eachof the four holes
driving
Fig.
191
glue
is
placed
of the legs
and ends
the glue
is
placed
and allowed
to soak in
and then
more glue applied and glue placed on the surfaces of the legs and allowed to dry a little before placing the parts together,
they will hold
still
better.
LESSON
The
as Fig.
39
is
shown
in Fig.
192
made
in the
shelf.
strengthens the frame, and makes the taboret stronger, therefore taborets
may be
larger
if
with shelves.
140
(Fig.
193)
!
'
'
- ^0
J*b
j -
i~I
H"-
rn
\i+
Fig.
192Taboret
with Shelf
wide piece
trued.
they are
the
strip,
-s-
ished at an angle.
This
will
Fig. 1
93 Taboret
141
than making them square and will also give a better appearance.
Before the legs are nailed in place, they should be clamped
together,
for rails,
and pencil
lines
of the nails
and
shelf
The
made
in
manner
if
the top.
It
is,
to size,
measure
the
rails
and
strips
are the
not,
same
as
they are
make
the shelf of a size that will hold the legs the same
Nail and glue the strips in place, and, lastly, the shelf. Holes may, if necessary, be made for these nails with the drill,
(Fig. 187).
or a
little
The
shelf
may be
strips,
above or a
little
below them.
LESSON
TABORET
Do
40
not begin making this taboret (Fig. 195) until you have
make
as
The
top, legs
and
rails
are
made
If
in the
same manner
square
stock,
clamped together
ends and then
vise
at
shown
in
placed in the
ends
shown
The
may be worked
of the
as
one piece.
The ends
two
rails
are beveled in a
manner similar
bread board.
Fig. 1
Hold them
at
95
Taboret
an angle similar
to planing
The
rails
and a broad brace (Fig. 199) nailed across to keep the frame
square.
fitted to
the corners.
If
clamp
or
is
used,
/\
r
too
much
it
will pull
j
/~v
When
nails
the glue
is
dry,
may be driven
2fc2
\/
Be
sure that
the
rails
rest firmly
on
the
may break
Another method
joining
of
the
rails
is
to
rails to-
shown
Then
fit
Fig.
200.
dowel pins to
Before driv-
will
not stick
if
the finger
lightly
touched.
After the glue
has
Fig.
196 Taboret
of the
To
shown
in Fig. 201.
is
drying,
make
its
corners.
Intead of laying
the
rails
corners marked.
sure that
are right
at
one corner
may be
Fig. 1
gether.
as
(Lesson 29).
It is easier to nail
if
the legs
To
Fig. 1
98
Beveling Ends of
Rails
by
line
the
145
As there
on the
two holes
in
each leg
the
and out
of
wind.
The
legs
may be
Such screws
be used
in
rails.
Fig. 1
99 Clamping
Glue Block
may
also
If
enough
for
ter of the
screw thread.
grease in these
Put a
little
Be very
careful
the
Corner
rails
together and do
the corners
if
not
146
and
finish
by putting on the
See that
wind.
all
top.
parts
are
of
straight, square
and out
shown
in Fig.
190
number
con-
Hf. * 201
Planing Corner
6
of modifications, all
.
,.
The
size
may
of a dining-table.
The amount
features
of
changes to
needs.
The
size,
legs
to
throughout.
mit of tapering or otherwise forming the outline of legs. The rails may be broad enough to hold the
legs securely without the shelf.
^ 2 02-
RaUsmdJhelf Clamped
LESSON
This pedestal, (Fig. 203)
sufficiently difficult for
is
41
PEDESTAL
a simple, plain problem;
yet
When made
good
first
in
oak
or
mahogany,
it
year high
school boy.
ners,
is
surfaces,
and
if
planing,
is
made
the
as all
drawing
(Fig.
is
the
square column
parts
begun
first,
other
joints of the
column
are drying.
of
the column.
Fit
which
of
the column.
Be sure
fitting to
to leave
and
the other
Fig.
wide piece.
203 Pedestal
and drive
nails at
each end
at
the
inside edges so that while being clamped, they will not slip.
148
wide piece.
To
fit
this
joint the
edges
width
narrow pieces.
Plane these
-1T-
-w-
3
s
1 1
tr
side of the
column.
Should
this
HI
-H"~
calls for,
plan the
13"-
-1
little
plan-
K-
-tZ"~
ing after
all
Next square
will find
f4'
the ends.
This you
someyour
what
fully,
difficult
but
if
lines
you
will
succeed.
part of
The main
the top
is
o
en
to a size a
little
larger
narrow
then
fitted
and glued
even
under surface
of the top
These
_c
Fi?.
They
are
clamped
as
204 Pedesiai
shown
in Fig. 207.
make
Fig.
205 -
Clamping Column
The
ing
last fac-
strip is fitted
and clamped
208.
as
shown in Fig.
After the parts
worked the
as a single
same
thick piece.
The piece on
the top end of the
of
Fig.
206 Facing
Strip
Clamped
will
and
150
except to
make
it
throughout.
screws through the piece into the top of the column and as
may be used
it
instead of screws.
is
Deterexact
is of
mine by
soft
careful
in the
If
the top
wood and the screws of proper size, the holes for the screws may be bored through the board, then the latter with
Fig.
207
End Facing
Pieces Clamped
may be
put in place.
When
the measure-
may
be driven part way into the top by using the hammer, and
The base
similar
If
is
the
column
in a
manner.
the screws
may be
driven
enough
parts separated
and
151
The sub-base
is
fastened to the
The design
of the pedestal
may be
modified by making
all
Fig.
Clamped
parts octagonal.
the column
is
to
be made octagonal,
it
should be
made from
of the
a solid piece.
on the corners
top and bases.
column
if ft is
LESSON
This rack
ments.
It
42
BOOK RACK
may be varied in size to suit individual requireThe board should be carefully trued on all surfaces.
the upper edge, in which case
it
msy be chamfered on
The square
sides
and
all of
made
152
cross section.
to
To do
the
rounding
place a block
in the vise
and
whittle the
end
in
as
shown
210.
a
Fig.
To make
nice end,
first
shape
it
like
an octagon,
(Fig. 211)
Fig.
and then cut off the corners, making it round. You will understand
how
this
is
done by
how one
is
made and
fol-
The rounded
pirt should
at
Fig.
210
Wh.tlling on Block
153
of the
same
size for
if
about
very important
you wish
If
to
make
a strong joint.
is
the
whittled portion
entire length
it
tapered the
will
have so
You
Fig.
may draw
end to
alike.
assist in
making them
in shap-
Your success
as in Fig.
210
if
you can.
in Fig.
shown
right
if
213
you are
particular to
keep
your thumb
in
such a
otherwise you
a cut
thumb.
a
is
This
is
no doubt
good way
the only
many
Fig.
objects.
not
difficult to learn
and should
be used for most of the whittling) being a method well adapted for removing the fine shavings, in finishing rather than for the
154
heavy
cuts.
By comparthe knife
is
parts
of
the
By
starting
work
faster
and
better.
in Fig. 214.
These
In
and shapes, the knife many ways. Sometimes cutting toward the end and sometimes cutting in the
sizes
is
held in
opposite direction.
After the
to
end
is
formed
an octagon in
this
manner,
it is
made
sixteen sided
and
finally
Fig.
2 1 4 Knife
Blade at an Angle
155
Here
to exercise
Bore the holes and make the small spindles and then sand-
Use
the paper
on your fingers for the straight sides of the pieces and on a round edged block, ( Fig. 133), for the rounded ends. The ends may be made separate from the base and not glued to it, so that in packing the ends will lie flat upon the base.
It is
same
as
if
is
most pupils
at this
time.
their use
of a
mere novice.
LESSON
The
legs
select
first
43
215)
is
REED FOOTSTOOL
thing in
making
to set
on end and
what are to
As the
in-
is
necessary to
corners
make these
fore the
will
face-marks
be on the inside
corners.
As these
Fig.
215 Reed
Footstool
156
will
will
P=
ing the
first
piece
*
"N<0
(Lesson 4).
locate these
That
to in
place,
and mark an x on
each side that
is
**
-a
to
if
be
face.
After
dressingthe surfaces,
use the
face-marks
in Figs.
-\z-
as
shown
After
37
and 43.
all
four sides
ofeachleghavebeen
jointed, set
them on
for
the
places
the
(Fig. 217).
From
~
I
**
Fig.
2 1 6 Reed Footstool
chief difficulty
is
Be
mistake.
sure to
make no
The
on the two
157
at
which
to
draw knife
chamfers
This
After
shown
in Fig. 218.
By referis
to
be
set
the
same space
is
for
all
the
Fig.
holes and
to
21
The boring
for
will
if
is
a matter of
not be square.
One
of the
1%
this
is
bored
one.
until
it
meets
better plan
to bore but
one hole
at
glued
in pairs.
much danger
See
Fig. 229.
Fig.
2 J 8Marking by
Superposition
holes
should
be about
158
\y 2
;
ons
Chamfer the top ends, following the directAs these chamfers are short you will
be very
careful to
make them
square, smooth and of equal size.
the cham-
fers are
not well
ap-
made, the
pearance of
Fig.
the
219 Testing
piecewillbepoor.
Select the four
them to
size
and square;
finish the
should
rounded
ing
for
first
at
be
adjoin-
the
directions
cyl
making the
After
'
inder.
they are
Fig.
220 Testing
with Trysquare
159
used
for
it
you
of learning to
do the rounding.
Fig.
Try square
select
them together;
if
they
them
the
and apply glue. Allow glue to become nearly glazed and then
force the pieces together by clamping.
Be
work
189).
at
each stage by
Apply the
try-
Fig.
Framing Square
160
be applied as
The framing square may You may be able to press the parts
together without using
them
to-
gether.
to Fig.
By
referring
will
229 you
learn
be used.
If
quire turning to
make
them square
in
as tested
Fig.
221 a hand
used,
If
screw
Fig.
may be
Fig. 223.
one end
it
may
as
shown
in Fig. 224.
finishing.
lesson
the
the
and
Hg
224
Handscrew
at
End
of Rung
"
161
for
footstool.
is
to
Fig.
225 Testing by
Measuring
To
plan the weaving use small frame and weave string instead
of the reeds.
This
will
often
Another
AnililhSl^
;
you
will
be
careful to follow
the
is
directions,
to
wind the
reed around in
three ways before
doing any
This
in the
weaving.
is
done
manner shown
Fig.
226-Weaving
in Fi '
226
"
by
stitching in the
E
Fig.
last strands.
For
this a
^y
227 Needle
footstools, but reeds are
needle
as
It
is
is
required, such
in Fig. 227.
shown
should be but
any
such
school use.
LESSON
TABORET.
44
This taboret( Fig. 228)
may be made
nary
size
of
any ordi-
or
proportion.
Make a drawing
size of
giving the
spacing.
If
are
\%
inches
12
inches
228 Taboret
square.
From
these di-
163
piece you
Dress
all
edges
rails.
the rungs
or
In marking the
for
places
boring
and
rack,
foot-
is
each
Fig.
229 Clamping
Taboret
clamped there
will
be
less
danger
As
may
It is
usually necessary to
230 Taboret
will
Top
parts
should
fit
so
is
required.
Read the
164
A simple modification
is
of this taboret
shown
in
Fig. 230.
The
geneial
In
plan
may be
the
same
as Fig. 228.
off
mak-
When
top.
used the
frame should
and
legs so that
you
be sure
to
portioned.
leg
Fig. 231
a picture of the
corner.
This style
may be used on
LESSON
from a rack
long.
It is
45
may be any
BOOK RACK
This book or magazine rack, Fig. 232,
of size
one
more than
3 feet long, because the weight of the books will cause the
satisfactory.
The
Posts
\%
inch
feet
such
used,
all
be correspondingly
The
Such
light
parts require
do work you
make
a light rack.
designs
vertical pieces as
shown
signs.
in
these
de-
Do
not
make
FH?.
use too
many pieces.
232 Book
Rack
are
making the rungs and laying out the parts for making Figs. 209, 215, 228.
in the
The
shelves are
made
same manner
as the base of
the bench-hook,
Fig. 74.
much
166
be out
of
wind.
Make
the ends
first,
lastly fasten
The
best
rails
to
way and
insert screws.
is
and
nailing.
if
The drawing
sizes of
have
little difficulty
The end
and ends,
edges
for
the joints
will
not be
good.
Be
particular to
have your
plane sharp
while
smoothing
Fig.
233
-Magazine Rack
the end
grain, for one end should be carefully smoothed to form a joint, and the other end must be smooth, or it will not finish nicely.
The bottom should be straight on the edges and out of wind but need not be exactly straight on the sides. It should be of the same thickness throughout, but may be a little cur/ed
from end to end,
for in
167
also
be curved a
little, for
straighten
If
little
wise, the
may
or
them, you
will
sprung
straightened that
useless to attempt to
make them
straight.
-Z3-
-zr-
i"-/te*iK?i
1
Fig.
*N
If
and
is
that
is
required
to
go over
in place.
of
The working
knowledge
pieces.
of
much
larger
You should
168
make some
pieces
fore attempting to
rack,
and you
all
will
you make
of the objects
in
nail the
slats.
the
can be finished before nailing together. Fancy headed nails may be used over the brads, or blued round head screws may be used in front and back.
LESSON
The
size of a
of
47
BOOK RACK
book rack
books
it
is
and number
is
The
shelf should
be
Fig.
235
little
Book Rack
objectionable.
of
be
tolerated.
The end
it
supports
should not be less than half the height of the book and usually
three-quarters
to
is
more
satisfactory.
Sometimes
is
desirable
make
The back
support
when
in
edges of the
shelf.
all
is
not simply
When
this
is
the purpose,
is
sufficient
if
shelves
are
increased
number
Fig.
Do
will
not
make
strong.
may be made
2 feet long of
%-inch
stock.
If
inch thick.
By examining
tions,
Fig. 135
you Ought
to
be able
will
own
use.
Do
all
so that while
Be
particular to review
all
directions
170
fering,
(Lesson 25).
Do
made
until
you have
the
The end
rails
projecting through
rails in place.
Round
flattened on
one
side.
covered by the
LESSON
This rack (Fig. 237),
is
48 PLATE RACK
made
in substantially the
same
for fastening to
Fig.
237 Plate
Rack
171
securely glued and screwed to the end and cross-rod and to the
be no
"V'-fri
possibility of their
becoming
zzz
=3S
%
UT
2^
^ BP
=t
X
54 Fig.
-37*-
loosened.
The
may extend
entirely
Fig. 239
fe>
is
an end view of
This shows a
Fig. 237.
%
Rods
Nailed. Sectional View
shown partly driven. These nails should be very carefully driven so that they do not run out on the side of the A clamp should be used to hold Fig.239-ViewofEnd end piece.
172
may
be used instead
of
may be
glued.
head
round head.
altered in
may be
many ways
with-
The
and spacing
of
vidual requirements.
as required.
the shelve?
LESSON
This book rack, Fig. 241,
is
49
type which
BOOK RACK
of a
may be modia
Made
wood
of
it is
good cabinet
a pleasing de-
work.
difficult
It
is
not a very
bore, saw
and drive
pieces
nails.
The
on
all
for
the
and then
as in Fig. 194.
241 Book
Rack
full lines
entirely
around
173
Remember
that
it is
much
draw the
lines correctly,
to
them
to
leaving
it is
draw the
and then
ZV
work on
that
is
read
all
surfaces,
jointing edges
in
to 20.
Fig.
ISO
or
Fig.
195.
have
been dressed
square,
of the tiy-
Jl
and
in
be bored.
Rgm 2 42-Book Rack shown a a trysquare and a tapered piece. From the
is
sketch of
The
slant height
is
24
The
slant
is
slant
is
2 inch y
length and
inch wider
at
give
all
the
is
placed
is
how
the
piece
used
As a matter
the piece
so
it
convenience
is
slotted at each
end
will slip
blade.
row end
drawn.
determined by the
to
be
same
such
as in
Fig.
ordinary work.
In
laying
out
work
on the edge.
Then from
175
on the
sides.
for
not square
to
it
may be sprung
to place
or
clamped
it
clamp
to a board.
of the
The design
rods
may be used
The
'
the lower
may be
omitted.
The
may
first
be made in
one piece
Others
it.
Some may prefer a pattern to use in laying out the pieces. may prefer to make one piece and mark the other from
Whatever method
is
lines to
work
to,
and
be required.
fasten the
and then
Glue and
nails,
dowels or screws
may be used
This rack
for
may be
number
of shelves.
The
of
176
LESSON
215), and
is
50
( Fig.
PLANT STAND
This follows the same plan of work as the footstool
practically the
rail,
of the
Read the
making the
As the
directions for
making
for
longer you
make
The hexagons or other ornamay be held in To lay off the place by brads.
mental pieces
hexagon,
half the
set the
compasses to one-
and
strike
compasses are
top.
Draw
the
diameter
A-B
With
the same
one leg
the point
A and mark
C and
E, change
B and
and F.
Place
C and
at
D, and on
E and
F.
If
these
first
the circle
at
same points
rr-n
as the
located.
Con-
completing the
hexagon.
Draw
a
12-iz
H/i>
*1*
n
-
plane the
gon
-riJ^f
-r-
*/=&
Various other
geometricalforms
may be used
this place.
in
hA
<V|
legs to-
gether.
The
be
left
legs
may
square and
or
straight,
may
Fig.
24 6
Plant Stand
be tapered.
articles
In
sort
of
this
legs
may be tapered on only the inside or face-sides, or on all sides. To work these tapers draw pencil lines across the face-
249A)
for
you are
planing
long lines
may be
omitted.
Begin
the
at
a distance from
Fig.
24 7 Drawing
Circle
Fig.
as
line
one surface
beginning
before
two opposite
faces
sur-
have been
Fig.
249B
This design
Fig.
Tapering
offers
an excellent
179
the design.
LESSON
The
51
UMBRELLA RACK
This umbrella rack affords an opportunity for the use of
exceptional ability in spacing.
size of the parts, distances
and length
tions
all
of parts in
afford
an opportunity
good
judgment
as well
art.
o
I
designer's
Fully
11
design before
Bil
si:
Fig.
250
Umbrella Rack
Fig.
251-
beginning wcrk.
In
this
\%
inches square,
8^ inches apart.
The
crossrails are
ncn
5%
180
inches and
The
spindles are }i
inch square.
Read the
The number
when
of
of pieces in
this
stand
make
be square
You may
find
sure
on the
sides
is
of
copper or
of cast iron as
shown in
Fig. 251.
LESSON
52
UMBRELLA RACK
This
is
similar
in
There
is
an opportunity
This should be
planned
all
and sketched
necessitate
may
part.
change
in the size of
some
is
As
this rack
for several
umbrellas,
the material
may
all
be
the
252
Umbrella Rack
The
height
may be
181
Read the
and 250,
From the
either
illustration
of dividing
is
placed
of
no notching
one
to the other
necessary.
no fastening of these pieces is necessary, but if the much, they may be secured by using a screw from the under side at each place where parts cross
Ordinarily,
By of the top. shown in Fig. 252, pans can be used for each four divisions. These may be planned so that the same pattern may be used as for Fig. 250. The sizes of stock used in Fig. 252 are, posts, 1% inch
a
may be
pan
at
for
each division
the bottom, as
square;
rails,
making the
divisions,
inch square.
LESSON
The
center panel of this screen
53
14 inches high and
THREAD SCREEN
is
7^
inches wide.
inches wide.
and 6j{
inch square
for
the uprights,
y
2
The
215.
Lay out and work the pieces the same as for Figs. 209 and Carefully read the directions for making these pieces
before beginning to
make
ments.
Make
including the
pins.
and the
all
the
completed.
10111
Fig.
in before gluin g
rails
To
to
assist
in
keep the
sides
tempora-
between the
sides as
shown
in
Fig.
Fig. 254.
254
The hinges maybe of leather the same as the screen (Fig .259), may be made of cord as shown in detail in Fig. 255. The cord is laced through one hole, then between the
and through the second hole.
it
posts
This makes
hole.
moving.
required.
No
other
light pieces
Fig.
Fancy
surface hinges
it
may be used
you do not
wish to
make
the screen so
way.
LESSON
SCREEN
This screen (Fig. 256)
ing, boring
until
class.
If
is
54
and designing, but it should not be undertaken you have made some of the more simple objects of this
you have had
this experience,
light
will
need
to
be very
deep
as they
You must
keep ever in mind that the longer the parts the more any
variation in the boring or whittling will show,
and therefore be
all
and
whittle
all
ends exactly
alike.
Study
all
make
a drawing
184
showing the
of
Instead
panel may
equal height.
The
Pi?.
256-
Screen
drawing
(Fig.
are
of
Fig.
256.
There
light
many ways
the rods,
screen,
shown
185
These
The
leather hinge
shown " T~
1
in detail in Fig.
259
is
~
+
'
-*
Rgmi* J
w
.
"
IS
'
vovo tn
;fl*r
n
i
-:H
257 Screen
J JN
B>.
Fig.
Fig.
258 Rods
and Tapestry
of this size
styles of
hinges
may
be used.
186
LESSON
CHAIR
Do
some
it
55
you have made
If
not attempt to
make
this
chair until
in this class.
of the
the work
is
be serviceable, but
for
if it is
poorly
made
'-iiliT*
Fig.
260
Chair
Sides
More pieces may be used, or those shown may be differThe sizes given in the drawing (Fig. 262) are as shown in Fig. 260. The parts could be much heavier, but it will not be safe to make them lighter. By comparing the sizes given in the
ently placed.
your
your needs.
188
To make both
may
and clamp them together. In all the Test them with the
shown
in
Lesson 43.
seat are
(Lesson 43).
is
Other styles
there
of
reeds.
LESSON
56
BLOTTER PAD
After you have learned to plane straight surfaces of ordi-
You
will find
it
more
difficult to
bench
The drawing
gives the sizes.
(Fig. 264)
Dress both
gular.
to
It is
much
easier
do
this
To
Draw pencil
gauge
end of Draw
at
the ends.
to these lines.
Draw a
Fig.
line
on each edge
lines
for
These
may be
They
drawn free-hand
As
this
in the vise as
shown
at
in Fig.
of
265.
may be held
an angle
moved across from edge to edge, and plane may be held parallel with the edges
Test the surface from edge to edge
The
The
may be changed
A very nice
and sides
finish
top
pad
by applying
several
sur-
Fig.
265 Planing
Curve
is filled
before using
for
the
so small a surface the entire finish
shellac.
shellac, but
may be made
with white
'
At
first
much
at
the edges.
and
fill
wood
grind
it all
down
to a thin
and
last
oil
The
fine
pumice
191
may be made
of
pine or of hard
Fig.
is
wood, and
of a size
to suit
individual requirements.
268
The
chief difficulty
Fig.
2 6 6 Scouring Box
of true surfaces
Fig.
2 6 7 Sides
the
making
and thickness.
Be
careful to
following the
work each surface correctly as you proceed, same order as in working the first study piece, or
-i-
tf
3"
M*-4
H
f/'H
^>
"U
/=.
193
chamfered
as
shown
in Fig. 267.
The
piece
is
then ripped
in two, as in Figs.
One
piece
is
to a size wide
and bottom.
the face
is
enough or long enough for both face After all sides and ends are finished the piece cut off and nailed in place.
Fig.
269 Measuring
then
fitted
Width of Bottom
The bottom
in Fig.
is
is
as
shown
around
The length
marked
A line is drawn
It is
entirely
then nailed in
But
it may be chamand down the edges to the side pieces. Thinner stock may be used, but as the box is likely to be wet
The shape
of the
194
when
lumber
will
To
learn the reason for this, select two pieces of board of the
same
their shape.
if
the
difference.
You
differ-
may
also
experi-
ment with
Be
particular to
select
specimens
rings
in
similar
position.
You may
of
notice a difference
in the
warping
two boards
of the
same kind
if
of
wood
one is cut
at right
Fig.
270
Measunng Length
them.
If at
flat
on the
bench top
against
and next time standing on end, or leaning the bench, you will learn how boards may be warped
piece across the front
The
have
its
195
LESSON
The
you
will
58
see that
make this will depend on how By observing the sizes given in Fig. 272 may be
and
3/8
inch thick.
machine marks
thickness throughout.
The
piece
is
so thin
it
can be
make
the surstraight.
perfectly
in
it,
nor
should
it
be
in wind,
and
Fig.
Holder
and
straight.
After truing
shown in Fig. 273. and squared (Lesson 16). First cut off the corners and then the piece for the back and trim the edges, following directions for similar work (Lesson 29), and
lined
196
Lesson 2 1
large
The
may be
enough
to
for
enough
broom holder will be held in place. If this model is made of pine, basswood, whitewood, or some similar soft
wood
it is
lem
|t
for
one who
2X
^IjI^;"^
jV^
shape
of the
back may
also
be changed,
or
of
the
sides.
The
corners
may
or
be chamfered
wider and
the
edges extended
past the sides and
272 Whisk
Broom Holder
more advanced pupils is to make the entire piece fine cabinet wood and polish it before fastening the
place.
of
some
front in
'
197
headed
nails
Brads
may be used
to nail the
to the sides.
screws
may be
used.
all
be
are correct,
and the
flat
the back.
of
nails
with solid
;
They
are
made
of
rcn
Fig.
273-
and
in
many
sizes.
If
in hard
wood, holes
Before
(Fig. 187).
have no trouble
in locating
it
properly, then
remove the
nails
finish.
The
Lesson 56.
In driving the nails
after the surface
them
198
LESSON
While
this is
59
it
MATCH STRIKE
a "useful article"
is
a waste of time to
to
make
it
a purpose.
spend
for
such
hook, and the chamfered bread board, and yet feel that you
J e
tsfcg
fnfcg
"X
00
Fig.
274
-Match Strike
Fig.
275 Match
Strike
do not understand planing and chamfering well enough to make, properly, one of the waste paper baskets, make this
piece as a study of planing, but do not allow the thought of
199
Follow
for a
the
different size
and follow
that.
Be
first
sure to leave
all
edges and
Smooth the
do nice
surface for a
class finish
it
to
finishing.
Do
not
mutilate
by
line
carving,
LESSON
To make
match
the
60
MATCH SAFE
the back of this
safe (Fig.
match
strike (Fig.
The octagonal receptacles are made in one piece, direcmaking which are in Each end is finished and bored, and then the piece cut in two. As the trysquare head will not rest
tions for
Lesson 68.
thin piece
is
held between
The
thor-
putting together.
the di-
papering before
doing
for the
this this
work,
of
beauty
is
piece
in
perfectly finished
surfac
Fig.
and
277 Lining An K
edges.
Unless
and
to cor-
paperfor the
'strike'
may be
cut from a
sheet of No.
1^
by
LTTTZ ?
Fig.
and using
it
may be
in Fig.
27 8 Match
Safe
torn as
shown
121.
201
LESSON
The basket shown
in Fig.
61
10 inches high and 9
larger basket
2 /
T
would be
at
hand the
sides
after the
surfaces,
tions for
first
working the
that as
each piece
is
to
be
split
you
will
place
surfaces
Read
Lesson 29
for directions
When ready to
entirely
split
edges,
Fig.
279 Waste
Paper Basket
gauge
first
one
Set the gauge to the
fin-
surface
piece with just enough to waste in the center for sawing and
which should be
at
that the
nicer
and
off
To make
find
To
cutting the
corners draw diagonals and with the compass set to the space
A-C
for the
space
lines
Connect these
145)
care-
Be
make each
so the
fit
of correct
surface,
pieces of the
basket will
perfectly.
When the
base
is
complete, place
if
If
B
Hold each
them from
if
the
the bit
splits
for
Do
After
holes,
Lesson 62.
all
all
the
holes
sandpaper
sides in place.
No
Fancy
nails
round heads.
lacing or suitable metal
203
Plain pieces as
silver, or
shown
in Fig.
fancy pieces
cut
the
bent pieces.
The
finish
may be
taken apart
finish
for
finishing.
The
LESSON
Read
all
62
for
will
for
getting out the sides except that required because the sides slant.
The drawing,
(Fig.
also shows a
piece
between the
Obis
length
of
the
try-
square
head about
2
inches in
slants
Fig.
281
2 y
inch in 3 inches.
Because
of
this relation
slit
in
shown
in Fig.
243.
You
inch wider
at
one
It
line
than
the other.
does
but
it
must be
line
y
2
inch
at
wider
other.
at
one
If
than
the
you wish
to
be
You can do
the
will
this
by remeasIt
tapered.
probably be so slight a
difference as to be
terial.
immawere
This
If
it
the
slant
great
would be necessary
it.
to take account of
will give
Fig.
side
each end
it
may be
basket
may be
used.
For
this
the angles
may be
one piece keeping it always in the same first you can vary the width
position.
If
you make
spond to the
lengths of the
sides of the bot-
the bottom
should be work-
ed
at right-an-
side
and then
to
fit
beveled
the
sides.
slanting
Fig.
283
tryFig.
shows how to
hold
the
283 Try-square
on Edge of Base
square and
block.
ends and one edge and then lay out by measurement from the drawing,
or else
make
to lay out
each piece.
the corners and
Finish
then
and try-square
fastened to-
each end.
The
Fig.
sides
may be
There
are several
ways
of lacing corners,
driving a small brad at an angle through the lace and into the
hole, so that the
for fas-tening
to the
LESSON
There are innumerable
63
WORK BASKET
variations in this style of basket.
It
may be Some of
edge
larger
or smaller
the sides
and various woods may be used. may extend below the bottom and thus
Similar sides
top,
the
and may be
though
uses
lique
ter,
for
most
obbet-
the
are
making a
to
this pur-
285
Work Basket
have
light legs
rails.
and
In
making the
first
To
and
dodecagon or 12-sided-bottom
to this
lay off a
compasses
for
straight lines
The
fastenings
shown
in the
made from
Three
links of a
.
jack-chain.
One
ex-
"I
each end
ening
is
so bent that
it
will
remain in
LESSON
BOXES
The
successful
64
making
of
trouble
in
making
well
box with
fitted
joints.
Fig. 287
Fig.
28 7 Box
is
a typical
208
box and
be able
you work
carefully, studying
of
to
make boxes
any
size
and
corners
are
square
butt joints.
tom and
sides follow
(Fig. 116).
The ends
square.
made
after
both ends
uring the
proper
See
As the ends
be true.
It is
of these pieces
must
tested from
and edge (Lesson 16), but order to make a good joint the
lines of the knife point.
3*
Fig.
even as the
Be sure
entirely
this glossy
edge extends
The
209
the parts
may be
left
square.
If
any are to be
The edge
the bottom
may be
made
287.
oval, as in Fig.
draw
two
gauge
and botbe
tom are
These
drawn
in place.
lines should
entirely
around
Fig.
In locating these
lines, allow }
inch to
3 /i
ing upon
how
top,
and be
are
far
enough from
the top so that
neither saw
nor plane
hit
will
the brads.
291
Transferring Measurement
hinges and
enough
for
After these things have been done draw the lines with
when
to
do sandpapering
on such work
depends a good
deal on the tools
the
bench
is
clean
being marred or
soiled while putFig.
ting
them
it is
to-
gether,
ter to
bet-
do all the
sandpapering
at
once before
In
this
doinganynailing.
case be careful
not to
injure
any
of the
ing on any
joint surfaces.
293
Bottom
211
of the
box the
and edges
end pieces, the edges of the side pieces and the places against which these fit. As you cannot avoid sandpapering these latter
surfaces,
do so
as
little
as
rest of
the surfaces.
Another plan
is
and ends
of side pieces
and both
surfaces of the
end pieces,
Fig.
Bottom
of the
on.
Do
After
ripped in two and the hinges and catch are in place, sandpaper the top side of the top. The bottom side of the bottom need not be sandpapered.
In nailing the box together calculate the location of the brads and draw a pencil line across the side. Start all the brads for one side, (Lesson 21). Also draw a pencil line on
212
Place the pieces as shown in end piece. 288 and drive one brad near the front edge. Examine it to see that it is even with the line on the face-side and then The try-square apply the try-square as shown in Fig. 289. may also be held as shown in Fig. 290. Next nail the piece to
surface), of the
Fig.
the other
end
in the
same manner.
Be very accurate
in
Fig.
295 Box in
Place the face-edge of the other side against the one which
has been nailed, (Fig. 291) and mark the location for each
end.
the try-square and pencil, and
nail this
Draw
piece to
the ends.
if
necessary nail a
in Fig. 292.
is
to
be the top
as
shown
213
tested
for squareness
or stick.
When
and
sides are of
equal length.
Fig.
The bottom
is
Calculate the
and draw
showing their
The
with the pencil end of the gauge and those across the ends
box upon
it,
Another meth-
clamp
in the vise
and bottom
clamp.
in the
Tighten
trifle,
then adjust
when
the bottom
clamp.
(Fig. 294).
Release the clamp from the vise and turn the box and
each
These brads may be driven but a little way and then the bottom removed
to hold
it
and
keep from
will
slipping.
set.
The
driven and
The
298
Sketch of Hinge
manner.
215
box
in two, place
it
296), the
slowly.
as
the
piece
(Lesson 20),
box
(Fig. 295), to hold the two parts in place as you nail on the
There
is little
need
fastenings.
is
They should be
carefully located
on the
joint.
It
be
in exact line
and the
center of the pins on which the hinges turn be exactly over the
joint.
LESSON
The wagon box
tion indicated in
follows the
65
of construc-
WAGON BOX
same genejal plan
Lesson 64.
The
Fig.
nailed,
and
it
will
look better
The
rear
end
of the
shown
in Fig 299.
216
will
plan
all
dimensions to
your needs.
Then
if
look
over the
plans,
necessary.
Make
and
of
Be
sure to read
the
directions
planing,
sawing,
sandpapering
making
a nice box.
Do
study piece.
LESSON
NAIL BOX
divisions to suit the sizes
66
number
of
and
varieties of nails to
joints, as
be held.
sufficient.
shown, are
Fig.
After
make nail boxes containing more difficult joints. The box shown in Fig. 300 is similar in
construction,
217
to that illustrated
by
box
in
first
class
15
*-2fr
shape.
If
you do
3N
U*
make
drawing to
suit
Fig.
be made
at the
same time
as the
ends and
The
difficulty is to stop at
LESSON
NAIL BOX
Before attempting to
67
of this
make
287
box
make one
to
similar to Fig.
or Fig. 300.
is
This
help you
understand
how
are
this
box
sides
made.
directions for
making the
and bottom.
The ends
made
wood
is
In shaping the
the corners.
Fig.
The
drawing,
303,
may be omitted
or
it
may
218
be placed crosswise
partitions
may be
used.
box as in Fig. 300, or two or more These may be all of the same height
Fig.
302 Nail Bi
or they
may be
made
of different
heights.
Fig.
219
brad
may be
prevent turning.
LESSON
The making
if
68
not a
difficult task
CYLINDER
of a cylinder
first
by planing
is
you are
careful to
make
and continue
being sure
all
number
sides
proceeding
After
to the
the
piece
11) make
it
into an octagon.
Fig.
304 Cylinder
on the bench and Turn the rule to
2 inch wide /
x
To
as
will
shown
in Fig. 305.
such an angle as
the piece
is
of the
Vi 6 -inch
divisions will
^-inch
By
this
method
220
divisions,
you
these divisions, or
end
of the
line
each
upon
it,
end
for
four lines.
Fig.
305 Dividing to
if
These
lines,
will
be
lines,
this,
doing
any
error in your
work and,
%0j
is
little
too large.
is
on
larger pieces
seven twentyis
better.
of
making an octagon
is
shown
in
Lesson 61.
the corners
in
off,
the piece
may be
held in the
shown
Fig.
306
shown
in
Fig. 307.
Place an
Fig.
306 Planing an
Octagon
off.
it
in
Fig.
307 Planing an
Octagon
222
the
All
same width.
If
is
find
and
rectify
it
if
you can.
Test the octagon by holding the trysquare the same as in
testing
will
a chamfer,
Fig. 84.
Any
variations
in the
octagon
show
each side
Next, plane
each corner
If this
it,
of the
of 16 equal sides.
round
as
to a
32-sided piece.
The
Fig.
308- Octagon
sides
more
is
before
it
appears to be round.
may be able to make 64 or even 128 nicely formed surfaces. The longer you continue making regularly formed angles the better cylinder you will make and the quicker you will
complete
After
it.
as
many
After
planing
is
finished,
223
Be
careful to
keep
it
In cutting
off
it
well to clamp
it
Fig.
shown
in Fig.
lines
on
Saw very
LESSON
Fig.
cal
69
is
TOWEL ROLLER
310
illustrates
a mechanito suit.
drawing
of
it.
The
Fig.
3 1 0 Towel Roller
224
as the
bench-hook.
i
H!W17-z\
-
ff
F/^.
J/1
Towel Roller
in the
The ends or bracket pieces may be made manner as the brackets. (Fig. 163).
same
The new
features in the
The
directions for
mak-
Lesson 68.
has
been
made
holes
are
wood dowels
the bearings.
center,
Fig.
inserted to form
To
find the
measure
across the
time
To make
been bored
225
to
form the
material
(Fig. 312).
to
Bore
this hole
so that
little
need
slot.
be removed,
slot
complete
the
The
Be
is
put together.
LESSON
This
If
is
70
you can do good planing.
make
if
you have made the study piece and bench-hook properly you
Fig.
31
make
book rack.
if
Do
not attempt
to
until
you attempt
square the ends or joint the edges of the thin pieces before you
of the
elementary principles of
226
planing you
If
much
first,
trouble.
you
will
The base
bottom
fering
it,
is
made
in the
same manner
as
the octagonal
for
of the basket
(Lesson 61).
For directions
chamof the
The bottom
revolving part
to
made
Be
sure
for
make
this
piece true
and square
in every particular,
unless
it is
may
not
fit
properly.
Fig.
of
Book Rack
The ends
long enough
are easiest
for
made by
314 and
you have
be
much
easier than
If
which
is
to size
and
finish
them off and then finish the other two. This is the quickest way if you have a piece sufficiently straight. The two cross strips should be worked as one wide piece,
227
the ends squared and rounded (See Fig. 149) and then ripped
Lay
will
octagon and
you use a
inch bit
it
be the correct
shank
of a
No. 12 screw.
Find
the center on the bottom side of the square piece and bore a
al){ inch screw will be the correct By making the countersink deeper a 1 inch screw can The head must be enough below the surface to be used.
barely below the surface,
length.
surface
on
rests.
Lay
off
for the
These should be
No. 8 by
1%
Number
for this
the ends and the bottom so that they can be returned to the
same
you
places.
will
(Fig. 187).
of
Drill
each end
for the
brads.
Nail these to place, testing the sides with the tryat right
This Rack
It
may be made
of soft
wood
or
may be
felt
varnished
washer about 3 inches in diameter should be placed For other finishes a piece
paper
be
sufficient.
is
The base
of Fig.
304
228
The square revolving base is the same size and y 2 inch thick. The ends are 5 % inches long, 5 % inches wide and ^ inch thick. The cross rails are 13^ inches long, "/% inch wide
A y
inch thick.
The
plan of
sizes
given
make
very
nice
rack but
changed to
is
to use but
for
two
vertical
two rows
of books.
To
rows of books, rods are placed across the center and extended
may
be
fitted
between the uprights and held in place with screws. The directions for making this book rack and Fig. 209
all
include
making a
variety of
simple racks.
of the
Ends
similar to Fig.
the bottom into the lower ends of the end pieces or supports.
The base
for
The end
little
supports
narrower.
narrower
if
The end
similar to
supports
may be
313.
As there would be no cross rod must be used. The ends may extend below the base and form legs.
fig.
an end in
229
LESSON
Fig. 315 illustrates a
71
SHOE BOX
box suitable
for shoes.
the sizes.
39,
and 40 before
first
beginning
The
ones to
four pieces
wind and
Fig.
To
done in
on page 144 (Fig. 198). The the same manner as the nailing of
Dowels may be used
the
as
rails for
shown
in Fig. 200.
may be used
as in Fig. 199.
holes are
s<
be bored
for
screwing
or nailing
on the legs do
until all
**
-190100
-u-
--A
>
been completed.
Remember
bottom
enough
to allow the
To make
fits
mark so that you can always place it in the same position. Mark the length of the bottom at each edge, draw a line Mark the to these marks and then saw and plane to the line. width in the same manner and rip and plane the edge.
Make
If
made
straight
and then
tapered.
318.
The top is of two pieces of equal thickness hinged as in Fig. The width of the two parts is not material, except that the
narrow piece
should be wide
made
with
differing
in
Fig.
31
Planing
in
Trough
length, therefore
it is
making
the drawing.
Do
wood
lid
it
to
fit
them
to
The use
of
To
is
hinder the
opening so
far as
fastened to
or
purpose.
will
This box
may be
modified in
it
to
232
other uses.
may be changed
to those of a large
may be
may be
If
left
the corner
as
trimmed
in
Fig. 315
place
of
the
legs
one
be used.
extend beyond
the
ends
the
longer top.
The bottom
would be the
same
Fig.
as in Fig.
318
Shoe Box
316.
If
you make
Some
of
much more
than others.
get
Try to get
You can
will
some idea
what boards
will
not by examining
them
in the pile or
LESSON
TABORET
These
taborets,
72
Fig.
of
construction which
may be
similar articles.
make
these you should have learned to plane, saw and bore holes.
octagonal,
shown
in
Fig.
319,
or
square, gonal.
Fig.
320, or hexa-
the
rails
of the
same shape as the top. The size and number of rails for
each leg
may
vary.
The
legs of Fig.
319 may
in
Directions are
and
in
To
line
Fig.
31 9Taboret
across
each leg
at
the
point which will be opposite the center of the edge of the top,
also
of
length of the edge of the top and place this point opposite the
center line on the leg (Fig. 321).
Make
point of the knife for each dowel, marking on the line which
234
is
on the edge
of the top.
With
knife
and
the
try-square
extend
At the
and
at the line
on
you can
of the bit.
information regard-
ing dowelling.
to-
they are
apart
them
straighten
them them
carefully
and allow
glue
to dry.
rails
Then
the cross
or spindles
320-Taboret
block and
at
Look
at
carefully for
wind and
rails.
test
Glue-blocks
They may be
nailed or
In
all
you should be
is
This
controlled not only by the sizes of the parts, but also by the
of joining.
methods
given in the
text.
blind
screw(Fig.l71),
nailing,
gluing,
Fig.
its
you
of those
Do
how
will
be conand
of
nails
or screws to use
Leave no
you
will fail to
236
LESSON
TABORET
This problem
is
73
ends
(Lessons
1 to
(Lessons 42
or octagonal
to 45).
and the
this
legs
may be
under-
or Fig. 323.
By comparing
Fig.
design with
will
319 you
stand that
it is
similar in
difference
being
By study-
paring
will
it
new
256,
in
all
etc.
Notice that
these constructions
is
the angle
Fig.
on but one
322- Taboret
at this
This
is
problem
as
time.
pos-
sible without
instructions.
The
first
ened should be
237
They
on
fits
for screws
legs
and
edges.
Make
and
spindles.
Glue them
to-
gether.
Fig.
323
Taboret
Adjust the legs to the lines on
and
test
238
the top,
if
not,
make such
wind and
Mark the
all
the pieces and bore the holes, and then smooth and sandpaper
the parts.
In clamping,
quickly insert
first
and then
in
the screws.
After the
screws
are
place
and
screws.
LESSON
This lamp stand
(Fig.
74
an advanced study
in
LAMP STAND
324)
is
ceded
by
all
the
work
to
Lesson 20.
The beauty of
exact
and
and
if
edges
chamfers.
It is
not
difficult
if
sign.
Fig
Many changes
of design
324 Lamp
Stand
are possible
239
In making the column, glue two pieces to one side (Fig. 326) and then dress them to a taper that will allow of the proper thickness for the remaining side. You will find help in making this column by the study of directions for the column
in
Lesson 41.
In squaring the ends use a block
on the head of your try-square the same as in working the angles in Lessons 49
and 62.
is is
made and
of the
on top
Read
to
use
Fig.
325Lamp
Stand
of orna-
some other
Sometimes cross-
arms are
fitted to
240
frame of shade
made
of
wood.
Such constructions
It is
are
better to
make both
Fig.
326 Gluing up
Column
its
LESSON
There
are the
is little
75
umbrella stand (Fig.
UMBRELLA STAND
about the making
of this
These
parts to
make,
as they require
can then work on the other parts while the legs are in the
clamps.
In making the legs, after the stock has been cut to rough
length, joint a side
and edge
of
each piece.
The
at
side
first
jointed will
be the
The edge first jointed will be the The edge which fits against piece.
face
will
edge
of the
narrow piece.
to be.
In order
them
each corner.
will
re-enter
legs
and
assist in
Two
may
be clamped
in Fig. 329.
at a
time, as
shown
As these pieces
easily
are thin
and
sprung you
vu
l*i
~T^
i*F
-^
fl^r
_SL
~?0
Fig. 327 Umbrella Stand
Fig.
328 Umbrella
Stand
each leg.
edge draw a
The next step is to taper each piece of clamps. Mark the width at each end and with a straightPlane, or saw and line as shown in Fig. 330.
the umbrella rack are
The
rails for
made
242
each.
the
either
By completing the drawing (Fig. 328) you can learn why These rails may be made by following length. of the methods given for making the rails for Fig. 180. As there are
to
be four pieces
it is
of a length,
essential that
you
be
very
careful
about your
end
planing.
tempt
to
You
at-
should not
do the
329 Clamping
end plane on
larger ends.
Nail the four legs into two groups, testing thoroughly for
wind (Fig. 189) and squareness. They may require clamping After each pair is nailed and glued as shown in Fig. 331. and dry,
nail the
These
will
likely also
require clamping.
Fig.
330 Lining
Taper
243
may be made
If
of
copper or
a pattern
of cast iron as
shown
in Fig. 251.
of cast iron,
made and
This stand
various pieces,
by using more
The
posts
the top
or they
may be
solid
Fig.
331
Clamping
Rails to
Legs
and the
glue.
rails
The
corners and
rails
may be
of
nails,
the stand
is
hard
wood, especially
a
mahogany.
try to
make
new
design.
LESSON
TABLE
This table (Fig. 332)
joints
is
76
in the legs.
is
The
frame
shown
in Fig. 333.
The
legs,
first
244
parts
as
is
those
for
Fig.
327.
often
used
to select stock
wide
Fig.
332 -Table
Fig. 334.
will
enough for a leg by lining and ripping as shown in Be careful to plan the ripping so that the sides correctly when put together. One face
and both edges should be jointed before the piece
is
face
ripped.
__ ^E^< y^-
Start three or
may be clamped
at
once by placing
in posi-
_. .,,_ Fig.
3 3 3 Detail
.,
piece enough to
make
245
far
Fig.
334 Piece
The
pieces.
for
rails are made in the same manner as other small Clamp each pair together and line them so that those
each set
will
be
of equal length.
rails
In putting the
joint.
and legs together, nail and glue each end pieces, making two pairs of legs,
Fig.
The
should be sandpa-
by changing
of construction
Fig.
method
is
applicable to tables of
246
any
is
In
2 y
inch thick.
The The
top
23x39 inches.
at
The
and 3 inches
rails
wide
and 35 inches and 18 inches long. A table with a top 20x36 inches makes a very good writing table for Larger sizes should be of 7/s inch instead of y school work. 2 Reduced to 10 inches square by 16 inches high inch stock.
are 4 inches wide
the frame
If this
it
is
design
makes
a very
LESSON
SLED
77
The question is not "how to make a sled," but "how to make a sled without attempting some problem of tool usage
not to be undertaken at this time."
is
Fig.
336 Sled
and yet require only simple
Fig. 337, gives the
so planned as to be serviceable
problems in construction.
dimensions
of
The drawing,
Fig 336.
made
at
Remember
that
to learn
all
making the sled. Examine the picture and the drawing and try why each part is so made. After you determine the reasons for making this sled in this manner
and
of this size,
if
of the plan
and see
good for making a sled for your own use. Do you need a sled as long, as high or as strong? Perhaps you will need to
make your
stronger;
if
sled
much
so,
what changes
should be made.
and the runner marked it, or on one runner and after this one is formed the other marked from it. Study Lesson 32 and you
from
will
have
all
the directions
for
you require
curves
planing the
are simply
of
The beams
straight
pieces
rectan-
gular section.
They must
248
in
wind or
may have
Fig. 181.
it
Be
sure to
to the
make
will
add much
make
manner
Lesson 38.
They should be
liable
of
wood
free
to
split
\ **M
,
^^F
m1
1
...
Fig.
Blocks
to
when the sled turns They should be thoroughly fastened to the runners as well as to the beams and braces (Fig. 338). The top board may be plain square or with corners cut off. The runners should be of stout wood, carefully made and
to resist considerable strain
or tips
securely fastened.
how
to
use them.
249
finally
the
The
if
sled
is
slip easier
a strip of iron
purpose and
is
held in
enough
to receive
countersunk holes
for flat
head
of
the runner
may
include the
an
iron shoe to
extend up
INDEX
Adjusting Plane
20
117
Drill
Curve, Working of
Cutting
.117, 189
92
Arc
Automatic
Board
136
15
Cylinder
219
13
Ax
Back Saw
Design
60
65,
Dodecagon
Doweling
207
123, 143, 233
.
Bench Hook
Bench Hook Sides
Bisecting
Bit
66 74
....
.'
. . .
Drawing Drawing
Circle
.117, 178
67
Hexagon
207
107
10,
46, 49
Blind Screw
Blotter
126 189
151, 164, 168, 172, 225
107, 109, 135, 145
,
135
Pad
End Planing
Escutcheon Pins
69
197
38, 40
Book Rack
Boring
....
at
Face-Edge
Face-Marks
Face-Surface
Boring
Angle
174
207, 232
37, 42
Box
Brackets
37
120
8
Facing Strips
Finishes
First
.
.
150
Brads
n
40
9
122, 155
Bread Board
Chair
no
186
75, 76, 191
Edge
Flat
Head Screw
Chamfering
Chest
Circle
,
Footstool
232
178
Framing Square
,29
43
10
Gauge Spur
Gimlet Bit
Clamping
145,149,163,182,186,21 1,242,243
Glue Block
Gluing
Grain of
....
138, 145,
230 240
Compasses
Cord Hinge
Countersink
178
183
Wood
26
91
.,.,...
11
Grinding
Counting Board
Cross Cut
105
16
Hammer
Hand Saw
Hexagon
82
77
Saw
Cross Planing
94
.........
176
INDEX Continued
Hinge
....
215
17
Nail Set
85
162
202, 222
Inspecting Material
....
19,
Needle
Jack Plane
Jointing
Jointing
33
Octagon
Octagonal End
Oval
Paint
Edge
Ends
....
1^3
121
12
Edges
....
38
54
Pan
for
Umbrella Rack
.179
147
Lamp
Stand
'
238
. . .
Pedestal
Pencil
Lacing
205
Gauge
43
16
iq
Laying
Lining
off
Spaces
53' 55
Pine
at
Angle
Plane
Planer (See Smfacei)
Lining Corner
111,146
132, 141
Lining Ends
Lining Legs
....
.
Plane
Plane
Bit
20. S;. SS
141
.
.
Parts
.
20
200
242
Planing
20.23.25.20.33.36,49,51
94,1 12,1 15,1 iS. 144. 140
Looking
for
Wind
....
36, 137
167,189.190,203.221.231
Lumber
Machine
15
Planing
Plant
Plate
Ends
69
[76 170
5
Marks
18
Stand
Magazine Rack
Mantle Shelf
166
.
.
Rack
....
IQ
Pocket Knife
43
Pocket Rule
Polishing
44
190
117
.157
199
198
.
Radius
Rails
130
155
50
21
7
Reed Footstool
Revolving Bonk Rack
Tbumbnut
....
22^,
Nails
Ripping
Rip Saw
Nailing
Nail
77
Box
216, 217
Rounding Edges
113
INDEX Continued
Round Head Screws
Rule
...
Stain
Straight
Steel
12
.....
. .
....
44
Edge
31, 32
Sandpapering
Framing Square
Plane
Bit
....
...
29
91
Sandpaper
97
Stropping
Sandpaper Block
104
.
Superposition
Surfacer
157
16
Saw
Sawing Sawing End
Scale
of Cylinder
60
Swing Board
Table
Taboret
.
121
223
57
243
130,139,142,162,233,236
178
Scouring
Box
191
127, 129
Tapering
Tearing Sandpaper
Testing 28, 30, 41,
56, 158, 161,
Scraping
Screen
97
183
9
10
44, 124
245
181
Screws
Thread Screen
Screw Driver
Setting
Towel Roller
Trysquare
. .
.
223
.28, 73, 109, 174
.
.
Gauge
Setting Nail
Setting
84
55
Umbrella Rack
Varnishing
179, 180,
240
12
Trysquare
Plane.
Sharpening
Shelf
. .
.
86
.
Wire Edge
89
14, 117,
19
11
Wagon Box
215
.
Shellac
W aste
r
Paper Basket
.
.201, 203
161
Shellacing
190
.
Weaving
Show Box
229
.
.195
11
21
Lengthwise
.30
34
152, 154
Sighting for
Sled
Wind
87
246 Plane
.
. .
Wind
Withdrawing Nail
34
Smooth
19
69, 131, 144
"...
85
Squaring Ends
Work
Basket
206
Mechanical Science
Methods
This is a text for use in Normal Schools and a most helpful handbook for teachers using the
Mechanical Science
It
texts.
methods
to
be used in presenting the Mechanical Science work basing the directions on the first lessons. It is well understood by teachers of Mechanical Science that the first lessons are extremely important and that if they are properly taught, there will be little trouble about the others. This text is based upon the experiences of many teachers and is a thoroly practical and reliable guide. It is not only valuable for the teacher, but is also a most helpful book for the principal and superintendent as it supplies exact information The superas to how the work should be taught. intendent who requires of his teacher the standard
and
by
with the interest and values resulting from his school shop.
Wood Finishing
This text
pupil.
It
is
a supplement to
Wood work
for
derstand.
It is a beginner's
book and,
actly
with the first processes. These directions are not merely information in regard to processes but explanations as to how and why and are so complete that a pupil should be able, after doing the work as given in this text, to do a great variety of finishing on all classes of
to proceed
furniture.
how
"How
text with
ing.
to teach
Wood
Finishing"
as to
is
a similar
of teach-
some suggestions
methods
completion of the special text on " Mechanical Science Methods" this text will be discontinued.
On
THE MECHANCAL
SCENCE TEXTS
Woodwork
for the Grades
Elementary Woodwork
Wood
Finishing
Elementary Drawing
Descriptive catalog on
request.
The Maudslay Press
Valley City, N. Dak.
Cranesville, Penn.
Elementary Drawing
This is a text based upon the problems in the shop course in Mechanical Science. Because of using objects with which the pupils are familiar their entire efforts are applied to the study of drawing. Because of this, much more work is covered in a given time and the work is much better understood than has heretofore been usual.
Part One
Part One, now ready, covers the selecting of equipment, line conventions, laying out sheet, use of tools and the making of the most simple drawings.
Part
Two
Part Two will probably be ready in October and cover in a very complete manner the theory of It will conorthographic projections and isometric. tain a complete set of sample drawings, mostly actual reproductions of pupil's work supplying the teacher as well as pupils with reasonable standards for study. Several of these drawings are for shop use in constructing very desirable modifications of the projects given in the text on cabinetwork. Other parts covering the remainder of the usual high school work in mechanical drawing will follow.
will