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TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER TITLE
1 DEPARTMENTS
2.1. MERCHANDISING
2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
2.3. FABRIC SOURCING
2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT
2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
2.10. CAD ROOM
2.11. CUTTING ROOM
2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
2.13. IED DEPARTMENT
2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT
2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT










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CHAPTER 2
2.1. MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and
presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development oI product line Irom
start to Iinish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team oI merchandisers and marketers
work together under a proIit controls head. Merchandisers handle the Ioreign buyers. The teams
are made according to the buyers being handled.
Two type oI merchandising done in garment exports
O Marketing merchandising.
O Product merchandising.

Marketing merchandising
Main Iunction oI marketing merchandising is
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O Product Development
O Costing
O Ordering

Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has direct
contact with the buyer.
Product merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities Irom
sourcing to Iinishing i.e. Iirst sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till
shipment.





A Merchandisers key responsibility is as Iollows:-
O Product Development
O Market and product Analysis
O Selling the concept
O Booking orders
O ConIirming Deliveries
O Designing and Sampling
O Costing
O Raw Material
O Flow Monitoring
O Production Follow Ups
O Payments Follows

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Department structure

MARKETING MERCHANDISER

HEAD MERCHANDISER

SENIOR MERCHANDISER

JUNIOR MERCHANDISER



In an export house, merchandising is a combination oI business and technical aspects. Senior
merchandisers have responsibilities oI products development and coordinating with the buyer, the
garment styles that meets buyer`s expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point.
Junior merchandisers have the responsibility oI handling paper work and Iollow up, detailing with
buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the
necessary paper work, provide breakdown inIormation to all other department and get samples
approved Ior Iit, color and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers,
approval oI production samples, and development oI Iabric and yarns are also included in product
development, which are co-coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate
with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate Ior Iuture buyers. Overall
we can say that merchandising is the core department oI the entire industry.

Costing
The most important activity Ior the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate Ior the cost oI
production beIore the buyer sends on his PO .During the pre-development stage an initial costing
occurs to get an idea oI the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece.
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These costs includes general raw material cost, manuIacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost
etc. Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a Iinal costing is done
accurately using Iabric averages Irom the CAD, cost oI trims etc.






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Start
Obtain tech pack Irom buyer
Sampling
Analyze Iabric
consumption Irom
CAD
Analyze cost oI
trims and
Iabric
Obtain general
sewing data Irom
IED
Prepare cost sheet
Irom sample
Develop sample as
per the tech pack
Develop proto
sample
Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer Ior approval
Approval
Cost sheet
reworked
ConIirmation
oI order
Obtain PCD &
details Irom
production unit
Source trims &
Iabric Irom
concerned dept.
Book washing &
embroidery capacity iI
required
Obtain GSD
Irom IED
Execution oI order by entering details in ERP
Prepare sample as per buyer requirements
Forward the sample to buyer Ior approval
Approval
Comments received Irom buyer
should be incorporated and Iit
sample reworked
Hold pre production
meeting with the
production unit
Execute
bulk order
Costing
Follow up with
production
departments &
update the buyer
Submit required
documents to
documentation
dept
OIIer garments
Ior Iinal
inspection.
Truck out
Follow up
on the
payments
Ior goods
End
No Yes
No Yes

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2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

BASIC WORK FLOW;
In any export house, the sampling department is one oI the most important departments
and it plays a vital in the upliIting oI a unit.
Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production
department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to
check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer`s
speciIication.
Merchandiser procures order Irom the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, Iabric
details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser Iiles this
inIormation along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, Iit, correction, size set and
approval in to a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.
Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number oI
garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval Irom the buyer so as
to start oII the production. The sampled garments represent the accuracy oI the patterns and
quality oI production skills and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose oI
communicating correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to
calculate the Iabric consumption along with that oI thread and other accessories used.
It is diIIerent Irom bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes
samples on the basis oI speciIications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.





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TYPES OF SAMPLES
Proto Sample:
Fit Sample:
Pilot Run Sample:
Pre Production Sample:
Pre Size set:
Size Set:
TOP Sample:
Shipment Sample:
Sales Sample:

Machine details
There were a total oI 300 machines in the sampling department.
O 0 operators
O cutting tables
O pattern making tables
O conveyor belt Iusing machine

Finishing machines
O ironing tables
O shirt Iolding machine




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The Details Attached to the Garment Sample
AIter the conIirmation oI order, each sample sent to the buyer has the Iollowing details attached
to it, with the help oI a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded
and what supplement Iabric/trim etc they have used (iI applicable).
O ReI no.
O Color
O Fabric
O Composition
O Description
O "uantity
O Style no/ Size
O Store




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1ech pack recelved from merchanL
uevelop paLLerns
CosLlng CAu
marker
uevelop sample
uevelop flL/proLo sample
8evlse llL/roLo
sample
sample
8evlse sample Slze seL sample
lncorporaLe buyer
commenLs
Sealer sample
lncorporaLe buyer
commenLs
8ulk producLlon
(shrlnkage Lo be
added lf lL's a wash
lf no commenLs
lf no commenLs
lf no commenLs
lf no commenLs
lf any commenLs
lf any commenLs
lf any commenLs
lf any commenLs
llg 3 Workflow of sampllng
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2.3. FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise i.e Iabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising
department and looks aIter the delivery oI the required goods within the scheduled time and
cost. A Iabric sourcer must have a knowledge about all varieties oI Iabric in order to execute
their Iunction eIIectively.

STORAGE
Location system oI storage is Iollowed i.e. Iabric packages are stored in two areas (a)Checked
Iabric and (b) Unchecked Iabric. Such system maintenance oI the store makes it easy to locate the
Iabric whenever needed in Iuture.
FABRIC ISSUE
The Iabric store issues the Iabric Ior cutting on challan. All Iabric is not issued at one go; instead it
is issued as required. The challan contains inIormation regarding style no, color, buyer`s name, and
quantity to be issued and issued Ior which production unit.

FABRIC SOURCING

Fabric requisition Irom merchandiser

Order placed

Fabric receive invoice/challan

Unloading aIter checking

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Tally with supplier invoice Ior quantity

Send bill to gate Ior entry

Receive Iabric in store

Forward Iabric Ior inspection

Inspection report sends to the concern merchant or sourcing dept.

AIter comments reentry in the system with Iinal comments iI rejected or accepted

II accepted

Relocation in store

Issue against job order
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SLarL
Sampllng
1echnlcal analysls vendor
evaluaLlon/selecLlon
Crder lacemenL
S/Cff
SubmlL Lo buyer
lf Ck
Sampllng yardage/
lab LesLs
llnal approval by buyer
8edo S/Cff
lf noL Ck
8esubmlsslon
8ulk
8ecelvlng order from merchanLs
1echnlcal analysls
Suppller selecLlon
C 8evlew C ConflrmaLlon
labrlc recelpL
C 8elease Lo suppller
CoordlnaLe wlLh fabrlc audlL
facLory for quanLlLy and quallLy
checklng
Lnd
8ulk
8aLe quoLaLlon from suppllers
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2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT

Functioning oI the Department

The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main diIIerence
is that the sourcing department works Ior sourcing the Iabrics alone while the purchasing
department works Ior sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the
same. The working is as Iollows.

The merchandisers give the techpack and the BOM (Bill OI Materials) Ior a particular
style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the Iurther process and Ior
costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the
price involved Ior a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved Ior its
production. In the process oI doing the in-house price , suppose the cost oI 00 pieces oI button
is Rs.3 then a Taxes oI oI exercise duty 0 oI per unit price is added as the
transportation charges and this all together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin oI is
also taken into consideration).

This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department Ior the costing
purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is conIirmed by the buyer
based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.

AIter the order is being conIirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other
concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup oI the trims and
accessories with respect to colour, size, MO", etc., will be given by the merchandiser to the
purchasing department in the Iorm oI a sheet which is generally Iollowed in the industry Ior all
the orders irrespective oI the buyer.

Once the purchasing department receives this Iormat, then the PO is sent to the concerned
department Ior accessories and trims. Once the Iirst shot oI the raw materials is sent by the
supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved by the buyer.

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AIter receiving the goods Irom the supplier they are checked Ior the quantity and also
checked according to the inspection criteria speciIied by the buyer and replaced iI any oI them
are not meeting this criterion. This department also keeps in track oI all the quantities received
in-house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser
according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this
breakups will have speciIied date and quantity and iI this breakups is not being mentioned then
the order is being placed with the supplier several times Ior small quantities and PO`s have to be
sent all the time so, in order to overcome this a breakups are being is given.
Then the purchase department has to Iollow up with the supplier Ior deliveries as and
when the merchandiser asks Ior the new set oI the materials Ior that particular style and then the
department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the documents oI the
inspections that are being carried out Ior those materials.












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8ooklng from
merchanLs
Suppller prlce CuoLaLlon and
negoLlaLlon
Ad[usL exlsLlng qLy
roposals
C conformaLlon
8alslng C ln L8
C sendlng
lollow ups for Lhe Shlpplng doc's
for lmporLs only
Sendlng doc's Lo documenLaLlon
depL for lmporLs only
lollow up wlLh sLores for any
shorL age/ execess
Send C Lo accounLs
Lnd
lf ?es
Check
exlsLlng sLock
lf no
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2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT

The main objectives oI this department are:

O Analysis oI deIects in the Iabric by various methods.
O Selection oI Iabric according to A"L ..

Inspection is done on the Iollowing grounds:

O 00 shade segregation is done.
O 00 width segregation is done.
O Iabric inspection is done Ior deIects.
O 0 shrinkage test Ior light weight Iabrics and mostly 00 Ior heavy weight Iabrics.
O The Iabric is checked in Iull width Iorm only.
O The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length oI the roll is correct or not.

SHADE SEGREGATION

The process Ior shade segregation in the Iabric audit department is described Iollows:
O The Iabric is received Irom the Iabric store with Lab report.
O Swatch oI Iabric oI about minimum 0 or at times 00 rolls Irom each lot / color are cut
Ior lab tests iI any.
O / meters stripe across width oI each roll or taka selected is cut and shade segregation is
done. All the cut pieces are aligned and made into a Iamily or group and declare shades.
Sometimes, swatch cards or shade bands are prepared and then Iabric strip Irom each roll is
matched.
O In some cases the shade groups are made aIter washing also.
O While doing shade segregation, color matching done by using paramount color matching
cabinet which is provided with D-6, TL-, CWF, TL-3, UV, INCA light sources.
O The shade bands or lot bands are then sent to concerned merchandisers, sourcing
departments, cutting departments Ior approval and reIerences.
O All the shade details are sent to the concerned people.









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Cln1S/100
SC ?A8uS
1PAn CLASSlllCA1lCn
ACCL1Lu 8LLCW
40 Cln1S
8L!LC1Lu A8CvL 40
Cln1S
FABRIC INSPECTION

In GARMENT, Iour point grading system is Iollowed in the Iabric audit department. All Iabrics
are inspected under the point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned based on the
standard Iault size Ior every type oI Iault and colored stickers are then put Ior the identiIication
oI serious deIects in the subsequent process.
Fault description under the point inspection system :


LEVEL POINT INDICATION
0-3 inches Yellow
3-6 inches Green
6-9 inches 3 Navy
Over 9 inches Red


O Here the Iabric acceptable level is maintained at:
4 30 points per 00 sq yards Ior mill made/ imported Iabric.
4 0 points per 00 sq yards Ior power loom Iabric.

O For checking whether the Iabric is within the acceptable level, points/00 sq. yards is
calculated as:
Points / 100 sq yard (total no. of points ` 3300) / (width in inches ` length
in mtrs)
Example:-
PASS :- (3300) / (300) points / 00 sq yards
FAIL :- (3300) / () points / 00 sq yards

O Width measurement oI all the rolls is taken at least time and minimum width is recorded
which helps in Ireezing the cuttable width oI the Iabric.
O The Iabric length oI the roll piece is checked and compared against length declared by
supplier.
O For every Iabric order one meter oI Iabric is kept aside Ior lab testing and quality standard
reIerence randomly.
O Minimum oI the ten bits Irom diIIerent bales oI Iabric is kept Irom every consignment order
Ior shrinkage test.
O The inspection results are then Iilled in goods inspection reports (GIR).
O The GIR reports have Iollowing categories:

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ln S1lCkL8 AC1uAL
8ALL nC lLCL nC
lCLu LLnC1P (ln
CMS)
Wlu1P (ln
lnCPLS)
Ll l
ML1L8ACL
1PlCk 1Pln SLu8
WA8 WLl1
uLlLC1S
?A8n uLlLC1S
LnAL1? Cln1S lC8 uLlLC1S
8CWlnC LLvLL
(ln lnCPLS)
CS/SS
vA8lA1lCn
C1PL8S
1C1AL
Cln1S
8ln1lnC/u?LlnC
uLlLC1S S1AlnS
WLAvlnC
uLlLC1S



There is a space in the bottom Ior 'Remarks; where whether the roll is acceptable or rejected is
speciIied.
O When the Iabric is inspected as per the point system, the deIects are marked with
diIIerent colored stickers Ior diIIerent types oI deIects as:
Red Sticker Weaving DeIect
Blue Sticker Processing DeIect
Green Sticker Other DeIects
Arrow Sticker Centre-Selvedge shade variation.
O The Iabric is issued Ior cutting, iI both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. However, the cuttings
are kept Ior reIerence.

INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS

O The width is checked and average width is mentioned.
O The Iold length is checked and the average is mentioned.
O The reed is checked and /- threads is acceptable.
O Center to selvedge color variation is not acceptable.
O For the bowing level is checked Ior by the Iollowing set acceptance levels:

WIDTH LEVEL
Up to inches acceptable
to 60 inches . acceptable
60 to inches acceptable

O AIter inspection oI the roll/ takka is done, iI the roll is passed/ rejected, a sticker is put on the
respective roll. It contains Iollowing inIormation:

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Tag used



O This sticker is oI green color Ior the pass Iabrics and magenta Ior the rejected Iabric rolls or
takkas.

MACHINE DETAILS RAMSONS CHECK MATE

Type R 0
Power input O , 0 v, 0 Hz
Power output 3 O, 0 v, 0 Hz
Gear motor hp, 00 rpm.
Power consumption 0, kw

I-Bangalore
Pass Iabric
Bale no.- Pc no.-
Fabric - "ty-
Colour- Width-
No. oI points- Date-
By- Shade-
Face side-
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8ecelve fabrlcs
SLarL
ConducL shrlnkage
LesL on mlnlmum 2
blLs/bale or mlnlmum
10 blLs of conslgnmenL
lorward one meLer of
each conslgnmenL for
lab LesL
verlfy wheLher quanLlLy
recelved maLch wlLh
quanLlLy ordered
lnform Lo sLores and prepare
goods recelved noLe (ln case of
lmporLed fabrlc)
lnspecLlon based on four
polnLs sysLem MaLch
bulk wlLh approved dye
loL wldLh of fabrlc eLc
name shade loL as A8C
Send Lo merchanL for buyer's
approval
lf approved
lorward Lo
cuLLlng depL
Lnd
8e[ecL loL
lf no
lf no
lf no
lf ?es
lf ?es
lf ?es






























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2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department



The acceptance oI the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms oI documents
i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and revival whenever they are done they are done
according to the documents that have been received Irom the merchants and also the department
also makes the document Ior anything they carry out within their rooI.
The department Iirst receives a PO copy Irom the merchants, which the merchants would
have sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the
accessory department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular
material they will make a note oI it in their ERP that they will be receiving that material and this
is termed as PRE GRN.
Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person
veriIies the materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have
received Irom the merchant as already stated.
AIter it is conIirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they
carry out a quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type oI the
buyer. The company carries this inspection as per A"L standard . Ior all the types oI goods
received.











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AQL quantity chart:


Lot size or quantity being audited Inspect Accept
088 than 151 8 0
151-280 20 0
281-500 32 1
501-1200 32 1
1201-3200 50 2
3201-10000 80 3
10001-35000 125 5
35001-150000 200 7
150001-5000000 315 10
500000-abov0 500 14

AIter inspecting the materials Ior the quality as per A"L then the allocation oI trims done based
on the nature oI the item.
Then the department prepares the GRN according to the materials received and against the
documents received obtained Irom the merchants and they also do the bill entry. The bills
whatever they enter is been Iorwarded to the accounts department Ior the payments and to IulIill
other Iormalities and a copy oI it is also given to the sourcing department in order to inIorm them
about the materials in-housed.
AIter this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,
O Sub contracting In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery
challan and then they keep all the documents and also Iorward the trims along with the
document Ior processing.
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SLarL
AccepL recelve maLerlals agalnsL documenLs
repare 8L C8n
verlfy maLerlals agalnsL lnvolce/ uellvery challan packlng llsL
Carry ouL quallLy quanLlLy lnspecLlon as per ACL 13
AllocaLlon of Lrlms based on Lhe naLure of Lhe lLem
repare C8n do Lhe blll enLry 1he same ls
forwarded Lo accounLs for paymenL
Su8
CCn18AC1lnC
8CuuC1lCn
lSSuLS
repare work order
repare dellvery challan
lorward Lrlms along wlLh
documenLs for processlng
ldenLlfy Lrlms whlch have been
approved by merchanLs
repare dellvery challan keep Lrlms
ready Lo lssue Lo Lhe facLorles
MaLerlals Lo be lssued afLer
lnspecLlon by securlLy agalnsL uC
MaLerlal
ouLward
O Production issues Another thing that they have to do is identiIy trims which has been
approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to
issue to the Iactories. Materials to be issued aIter inspected by security against DC as
already mentioned.





























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2.7. PLANNING DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department

Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval oI the order and helps the
merchants to determine the costing oI a particular style and they also tell the merchants iI the
company is capable oI producing the particular style in the given span oI time and also helps
them to know the capacity oI the production Iloor.
On receiving the orders, Irom the merchants they start to decide the date Ior having the
PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly involved which are,
planning, production and the Iinishing departments. Then the department will allocate the style
to the unit whichever has the capacity oI completing the obtained project based on the line
openings and also buyer`s speciIications and the skill oI labor required Ior it.
The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date), Order
"uantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular unit in
which that particular order has been placed with.
The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts a meeting with three
other departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates Ior the
particular style this will take about 0 days Irom the merchandiser approves the order that
has to be Iollowed.
Firstly, they take inputs Irom IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity
based on the garment details which includes, SAM value oI the garment, number oI components
in the garment, type oI seams, length oI stitches involved in the garment, types oI machines
required to Iinish the garment, any specialized machine is required or not Ior the manuIacturing
oI the garment, diIIiculties involved during stitching oI the garment iI it is oI a complicated style
and structure, the skill level required Ior the various operations oI the garment and the ratio oI
the operators with respect to their skill levels required Ior manuIacturing the particular garment
Ior all the operations all together. Then they Iinally come to a conclusion about planning entire
style.
Secondly, they conIirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they conIirm the
PCD, Order quantity, sample and other similar inIormation Irom them in consultation with the
GM and FM.
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Thirdly, they conIirm this consultation iI it is the Iinal decision and then they also get a
conIirmation Irom the embroidery, washing and Iinishing departments iI the slots Ior the dates
on which they have planned Ior those particular styles is available and then aIter conIirmation
they Iix the particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washing and
Iinishing departments.

AIter, a proper output has come Irom the PP meeting and there are proper conIirmation
obtained Irom the departments the planning department will conIirm the order plan with the
merchants and then provide MIS (Management InIormation System) report to the management
every Iortnight, then they prepare a 'Batch Commitment Sheet and this sheet is prepared about
3 days beIore the cutting date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the
batch that has taken up the job oI producing the particular style, the quantity which they are
committed to produce Ior a day and the labor details (which involves the number oI operators
and to which operation they are assigned to and they skill level will also be mentioned). This
sheet will have to be updated once in a hour to know the hourly production oI the batch.
Then there exists another kind oI a sheet which is made that is a Batch Variance Sheet,
this sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the updating oI
the style in the production Iloor is done and is given to the merchants on daily basis.
Then the planning department will Iollow up with the Iactory till the order is completely
being executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.
The planning department is responsible Ior the timely input oI the raw materials to the
production Iloor and they must make sure that none oI the days the batch /sewing line must sit
idle with a reason oI raw material non-availability.
The planning department keeps in constant touch will most oI the departments like the
IED, Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the diIIerent
departments is done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types oI
mails regarding the changes in the line oI the style or any such modiIying sort oI a situation then
the department maintains a hard copy oI it Ior the Iuture reIerence and conIirmation.

CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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SLarL
Cn recelvlng Lhe orders allocaLe Lhe same Lo unlLs
based on llne openlngs and buyer's raLlngs
rovlde deLalls Lo Lhe respecLlve unlLs on Cu
order quanLlLy sample
Conflrm Lhe above deLalls glven
Lo concerned unlLs ln consulLaLlon
wlLh CM lM
Conflrm ln consulLaLlon
wlLh embroldery washlng
deparLmenLs
Conflrm order plan wlLh merchandlslng Leam
rovlde MlS reporL Lo managemenL every
forLnlghL
lannlng follow up wlLh facLory Llll order
execuLlon
Lnd
1ake lnpuLs from lLu on
producLlvlLy based on
garmenL analysls
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2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department

The laboratory in the Iactory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments
that are required Ior the testing oI both the Iabric and the accessory items. But, there are several
tests which the buyer prescribes Ior which the machineries are not available in the Iactory Ior
such tests the Iactory does not have the right machineries so they send such Iabrics or
accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized
ones with the buyers and the merchant`s approval.
The laboratory in this unit is the centralized one Ior the units that are located in
Bangalore city.
The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments
and their main Iunctions and applications with the laboratory are as Iollows.

O Fabric Sourcing department:
The Iabric sourcing department sends the samples oI Iabrics that have to be ordered later
may be Ior sampling, pilot or Ior the bulk production. The sourcing department as soon as it
receives the Iabric swatches Irom the supplier they will select the Iabrics which they require Ior
the particular style and then order Ior a Iew meters and then aIter they receive the small amount
then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that are to be carried out Ior that particular
Iabric sample. The list oI tests that the sourcing department generally asks Ior are as Iollows.
Count
Construction
Colour Iastness to washing
Colour Iastness to crocking
Dimensional stability to washing
Fabric strength
Fabric weight

O Accessory Stores
The stores receives the raw materials in-house and aIter this they will have to do the
sampling process and then they have to make a list oI the tests that are supposed to be
CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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carried out Ior that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists
oI accessories and tests that are generally tested are as Iollows,
Button breaking test
Colored laces and tapes are tested Ior color Iastness
Color Iastness test Ior elastics
Lining Iabrics Ior their dimensional stability
Corrugated box

O Merchandising Department
The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory Ior the general tests
which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The
garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list oI tests that has to be carried out as
per the buyer speciIications.
AIter the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment
Iabric samples are sent to the external laboratory Ior tests to be carried out iI the buyer
speciIies.

Any oI the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a
Iabric/accessory/garment sample Ior the testing purpose to the lab then they generally send it in a
Iormat sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, speciIications oI the particular
material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, color and other material
related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests.
The duration which the lab takes to Iinish the tests depends on several Iactors like:
O Types oI tests.
O Urgency oI the task.
O Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally.
O Duration oI the tests that has to be carried out.
O Time required in getting the proper and the required output.
O Number oI samples that has to be tested.
Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the speciIications Irom any oI the
departments they generally proceed on priority bases. II the results are required very soon and
the tests does not involve any kind oI long process then that particular sample is taken Iirst and
then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received involves more number oI
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SLarL
labrlc Sourclng
Lnd
Accessory sLores Merchandlslng
1esL 1esL
CounL
ConsLrucLlon
Color fasLness
Lo washlng
Color fasLness
Lo crocklng
ulmenslonal
sLablllLy Lo
washlng
labrlc SLrengLh
labrlc WelghL
8uLLons
Color laces and
Lwlll Lapes
Color fasLness
LesL and elasLlc
Llnlng fabrlcs
ulmenslonal
SLablllLy
CorrugaLed box
Carry on LesL
on fabrlc and
garmenL as per
buyer
requlremenL
Cn meeLlng
buyer
requlremenL
samples Lo be
senL Lo
exLernal lab Lo
geL approval
tests and tests which involve long processing then such tests takes time about 3 days and then
aIter receiving the proper output they note down the readings in the record and then send it the
concerned department Iorm where they have got it.




















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2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
Apart Irom having quality system and the best practices,` machine maintenance` is also a
very important are to get quality` products. Unacceptable quality oI products oIten results ill-
maintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward
reduced downtime and increased liIe respectively. Proper machine maintenance is also necessary
to avoid casualties at the Iloor. The Iunction oI PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE includes;

O Care oI the Iittings
O Adjusting settings
O Oil changing
O Graph maintenance
O Outward/inward reports
O Needle weekly reports.
O Machine conIiguration chart
O History card
O Needle log cards.
Types of needles and their norms
Needle systems
MACHINE NAME NEEDLE BRAND NUMBER
Single needle lockstitch DBX
Single needle chain stitch UYX/TVX3
Single needle Ieed DBX
Double needle lockstitch DPX
Tandem needle lockstitch UYX/TVX3
Double needle chain stitch UYX/TVX3
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Over lock DCX/DCX
Flat lock UYX/DVX3
Picotting UOX63/TVX
Smoking DVKX/DVX
Shell stitch LS-
Pick/ saddle stitch DBX
Bar tack DPX/DPX
Button stitch( shank button) T"X3
Button stitch DPX/DPX
Button stitch chain stitch T"X/T"X
Button hole DPX
Zigzag DBX
Six thread cover seam m/c UOX





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2.10. CAD ROOM
GARMENT EXPORTS has its own CAD department Ior varied style garments are made with
help oI Optitex soItware package.
FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM
CAD department is responsible Ior the Iollowing Iunctions:
O Determining cutting average Ior costing
O Making the most eIIicient cutting marker
O Development and alteration oI patterns
O Development oI size set pattern by grading
O Embroidery graphics making
O Digitizing the pattern

BASIC WORKFLOW
Firstly the merchandiser sends the Iollowing documents to the CAD room:
O Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.
O Graded measurement spec sheet.
O Fabric detail sheet containing inIormation like Iabric Iorm ( open roll or Iolded Iorm),
roll size, GSM, type oI Iabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.
Then the work oI the CAD room begins.








8ecelve spec
sheeL form
8ecelve paLLerns
from paLLern
ulglLlze paLLern
Lo feed ln
CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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aLLern correcLlon
aLLern gradlng
CuL raLlo
plannlng
MarkeL plannlng
accordlng Lo Lhe
cuL plan raLlo
CuLpuL mlnl
marker Lo
prlnLer
CuLpuL marker
Lo ploLLer
Send Lo cuLLlng
room for cuLLlng
Send Lo
merchandlser for
cosLlng
CuLpuL Lo
CraphLec
ploLLer
aLLern senL Lo
merchandlser for
sampllng
WORK FLOW
IN CAD
DEPARTMENT
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2.11. CUTTING ROOM
BASIC WORK FLOW
Cutting department receives the order Ior cutting a garment style Irom the production
manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount oI
styles, Irom the spreads. It comes in Iorm oI a package Iile that carries the Iollowing details:
O Sampling average, weight oI garment (base Iabric consumption only), and other trims
averages.
O Measurement sheet
O Design worksheet oI the garment
O Purchase order
O Fabric requisition sheet
O CAD mini marker
O Marker planning- length oI lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be
cut.

ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS
Solid cutting
O Spreading

Spreading is the process oI superimposing plies oI Iabric on a horizontal table in a
manner, which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components
acceptable Ior assembly. For this, Iirst oI all a thin brown paper sheet is spread on the
cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies Irom shiIting during
cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying oI Iirst Iabric layer on
this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.
The spreading oI this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine.
While manual spreading is time consuming, the use oI traveling machine gives Iaster and more
accurate results. The length oI the lay depends upon the quality oI the Iabric & length oI the
CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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marker as speciIied by the CAD. Whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness oI the Iabric
and the capacity oI the machine.
O Cutting
The lay is cut with the help oI electrically powered straight kniIe cutting machines or
CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay Iollowing the pattern lines oI the
marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces oI the Iabric progressively. Notches are
also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band
kniIe-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the Iabric as
it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.
Spread

Place marker

Cut pattern pieces
Block cutting
Jacquard, stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to
requirements oI matching so they are spread manually. OIten structures like jacquard and checks
are spread and cut in single number Ior accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time, matching
the stripes with those in the previous plies. Then block are cut out Irom this spread Ior speciIic
number oI pieces. The size oI the block is dictated by the CAD room itselI, which sends a mini
marker Ior the cutting oI the blocks Irom the lay and placement oI the patterns on the blocks.
Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked on the top with marking chalk and using the
hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to the match the stripes and a rough
cutting oI the Iabric Iollowing the markings oI the pattern is done. The cut shapes are again
checked Ior alignment and the stripes superimposed. A Iinal precise cutting occurs to Iinish the
patterns.
Cutting oI striped Iabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved is also
more due to cutting in two stages.
CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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Spread

Match

Mark blocks

Match

Mark patterns

Cut patterns
Match

Final precise shaping oI patterns

Sorting and Ticketing
The pieces cut out Irom the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components oI one
garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut Irom two
diIIerent bolts (bundles) oI Iabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-
bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process oI
marking the cut components Ior shade matching precision, and sequence identiIication. The
worker secures one end oI the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he Ilips over the
cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important
means to track the parts oI the garment in the assembly line Irom start to end.

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Cut panel checking
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area Ior inspection oI every individual
piece Ior any objectionable Iaults. Panels having Iaults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size,
incorrect shape and any Iabric deIects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not
within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed Irom the cut lay. A cutting component
checking report is Iilled Ior the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are
sent back and an equal number oI Iresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed
with the same number as the rejected ones.
Other mendable Iaults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted
out during garment Iinishing or washing.
Bundling
The checked components oI one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using
ties. The size oI bundle depends upon the requirement oI the production plant. Each bundle will
contain pieces oI the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount
required by the production department when asked Ior.
Embroidery
The cutting department is responsible Ior sending the cut components oI a style Ior
embroidery as stated in the production package. They check Ior any embroidery and Iollow up
these departments accordingly. Blocks oI panels are sent are sent Ior embroidery, which are re-
cut aIter receiving back. To avoid mixing oI the patterns the panels oI the same size are stitched
together temporarily beIore dispatch Ior the embroidery.
Fusing
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itselI. The parts to be Iused are separated
Irom the bundle. The Iusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size oI the
components to be Iused. The components along with the cut Iusing material are kept between
two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the Iusing machine. By means oI the
temperature and the pressure Iusing takes place at a particular speed and Ior a particular time.
The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re
bundled.
CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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O Length oI spreading table 0 meter
O Width oI spreading table 6 Ieet()
O Height oI spreading table 3 Ieet(36)
O Table top type Plain, card board type
O Spreading mode Iace one way, nap one way
O No oI clamps
O Two air channels on the bottom side oI the table surIace, along with air nozzles per
square meter.
O Five blow motors per table, each supplying air to the particular zone oI the table.




















CuLLlng package
from producLlon
manager
Acqulre fabrlc from
fabrlc sLore
CuL sample Lo
check
CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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Yes

No





Yes
NO
No
8equlre
Checklng
CuL for lnlLlal slze
seL
Assemble and
check
8equlre
changes
lssue [ob
8ulk cuLLlng
SorLlng
CuL plan
8undllng
lssue
Send Lo CAu for
Change
8ecelve changed
paLLern from CAu
WORK FLOW IN
CUTTING DEPARTMENT

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2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department
The production Iloor does production in two types, once during pilot production where
they have to produce about 0 00 garments Ior the new style this will take about 0
days.
The production Iloor will receive the details like,
O the style or the garment,
O number oI operators required,
O the batch Ior which the style has to be installed,
O any extra kinds oI machines that are to be used Ior the particular style,
O target Ior each day
O Breakup oI the production quantity.

AIter receiving all these details they send a request Ior the cut parts Irom the cutting and
sorting section and the request is sent to the accessory stores Ior all the accessories that are
required Ior the particular style then they start the production Ior the new style.
BeIore starting the proper production the production Iloor does a process oI batch-setting
Ior the Iloor which is training the operators Ior the new style that has to be produced bulk, this
teaching session will go on Ior about 3 days maximum. AIter this batch setting process the
production Ior the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e., may be Ior 0 pieces Ior the
entire day and then the production gradually increases Irom 0 00 0 and so on, this will
make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to be carried out Ior
the particular style.
Once the cut parts is received Irom the cutting and sorting section then the parts are
prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned. AIter the assembling oI the parts is
done then there will be a line checking, where the shade matching and the measurements are
checked and sent.
During the process oI garment making there exists two types oI checking, they are
O In-process checking.
O Endline checking. Here there exists both A"L audit and normal checking.

CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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The garment making is divided into three diIIerent stages and at these three stages the checking
is done.
The Ilow oI material in the production Iloor is through the bundle system and each
operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 0 pieces in each
bundle and the operator completely Iinishes the job and sends it to the next operator to do the
next operation on them. Each bundle will contain same component oI diIIerent garments. The
movement oI the materials within the operators in the batch/line is generally zig zag motion
which is Iollowed. The checking person will be present at a position where the garment is
partially Iinished and it is as mentioned checked thrice in the line and sometimes more than three
and this depends on the buyer as well as the number oI components present in the garment.
The supervisor plays a vital role in the production Iloor. He/she manages the entire batch
which is been allocated to them and they have the Iollowing Iunctions to perIorm,
. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.
. Guide the operators when they Iace diIIiculty in making an operation and teach them
the most suitable and an easy method oI perIorming the task.
3. Check iI the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to
them.
. II the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get
him/her their material and ask them to work.
. Complain the production managers iI the operators are not perIorming their best.
6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management.
. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operator`s skill level whenever
asked Ior.
. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a
better person to Iit into that vacant place.
9. At times the supervisor himselI sits and perIorms the operation iI necessary.
0. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a Iriendly
approach to them and also must make sure that none oI them create any trouble Ior the
Iactory at any time.

The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular
line Ior the style by telling them the capacity oI the line and also telling them about the skills oI
the operators.
CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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SLarL
8ulk roducLlon
CuL parLs recelved from
Lnd llne checklng ACL
Assembly
Sewlng process beglns
8uLLon buLLon hole/ 8ar Lack
8ough checklng
lronlng
llnal checklng
1agglng
acklng
lSA AudlL
MeasuremenL checklng
AudlLlng by buyer CA
1ruck ouL
Lnd
lnLlne
Washlng
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2.13. IED DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department
The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives
the entire idea oI the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria,
operators skill level categorization and other related aspects hence they play a vital role in
determining the cost oI producing a single piece oI the garment and they also calculate the cost
oI the Iactory Ior that particular style oI garment.
The diIIerent departments with which the IED works are as Iollows.
The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required Ior the production
oI that particular style oI the garment by calculating the SAM value Ior it and they also help in
knowing the capacity oI the Iactory based on which the planning department takes a decision iI
they have to proceed with the item or no.
The IED calculates the SAM value Ior the garment, calculates the productivity oI the
given style Ior the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by
the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department Ior the costing purpose
because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants
suggestions regarding the reduction oI the cost oI manuIacturing the garment by modiIying any
oI the steps and the method oI doing it.
The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin which
includes the diIIerent types oI seams and stitches that has to be done Ior the garment and it also
includes the length oI the seams and the types oI stitches that has to be carried out at diIIerent
places oI the garment as per the buyers speciIications and approval. Types oI thread (which is the
TEX), area oI placement oI the trims and accessories and its location diIIerent kinds oI labels
that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the Iinished garment has to be checked,
the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style
bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.
This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is
required Ior the production oI the garment, they also set a target to the batch Ior an hour, Ior a
shiIt and Ior a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely
completion oI the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator
based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them Iinish their piece oI work on time and
also maintain the quality oI their work.
CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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AIter setting the targets Ior a batch and also Ior each operator then they will calculate the
eIIiciency. This eIIiciency is purely based on the daily output oI the batch as well as the single
operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch.
This department maintains a Iile which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this
report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM
value oI the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date,
average eIIiciency oI the batch till date, peak eIIiciency achieved, iI the company was working
that day or not, iI there was a delay oI production then the reason behind it, inIormation about
the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.
Based on the operator`s perIormance which would have been observed Ior a speciIied
period oI time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as Iollows,


The operators Ior each batch are taken in a ratio oI,
0 - Highly Skilled
- Skilled
- Semi skilled
This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication oI the style.
A record is maintained in which the skills oI operators are updated on timely bases.
Because oI maintaining this record they keep in track oI the operator`s skill and his eIIiciency,
working method and aIter a particular span oI time they update the record.
Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware oI stitching then a training
Ior about 0 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity
a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a
previous work experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which
he/she would have done in the previous Iactory and then he/she is just given an hour`s test to
know his skills and then grade is been allocated.
Everyday the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the
maintenance oI eIIiciency oI the batch in the production Iloor. They also conduct a production
Skill type Grade
A Highly skilled
B Skilled
C Semi skilled
CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation
carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned Ilow is not giving the estimated
eIIiciency and output then they will think oI changing the line plan and review it and later Iollow
the right one.






SLarL
1ralnlng selecLlon
developmenL
roducLlon uepL SysLems
developmenL
SelecLlon of operaLors
helpers supervlsors
checkers CC eLc
repare C8
Pourly producLlon Lracklng
Llne balanclng
CapaclLy sLudy
Sklll maLrlx 8aLch layouL SLyle
bulleLln
8aLch
performanc
Lnd
Lfflclency calculaLlon
reprod acLlvlLles
CalculaLe accessorles
consumpLlon
CA8MLn1 LxC81S
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During batch setting a model oI the sewing line or batch is planned in the Iollowing manner as
shown in the picture on a planning table carrying Velcro and small plastic boards which
represent the machines.



















TIME STUDY AND ELEMENTAL BREAKDOWN WAS STUDIED FOR THE
FOLLOWING STYLE

Style NO.2 : FL300T
Description : Women`s 00 Cotton Casual Iull sleeve shirt
Buyer :Walmart
Brand : Faded Glory
Item No : H0, H0
Colors : Rally Blue, Arctic White, Berry Combo, Navy Combo
Sizes : S, M, L, XL, XXL
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$
operation description smv opr
ACT time in
min
$AM trgt in
pcs
$AM trgt in
pcs M/C type
85% 100% 85%
1 coar marking 0.45 N 0.53 133 113 TABLE
2 cr run 8t 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT
3 cr trim for run 8titch 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC
4 cr cip & turn with iron 0.48 N 0.56 125 106 TABLE
5 cr 0/g0 8t 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT
6
cr ban/ iron
0.38 N 0.45
158
134
RON
TABLE
7 8atin tap0 attach to NB 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
8 cr ban/ att to top cr 0.51 Y 0.60 118 100 SNLS UBT
9 cr p0ak r0a/ 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS EC
10 cr r0a/ trim & mark 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS EC
11
cr p0ak turn & cr0a80
0.57 N 0.67
105
89
RON
TABLE
12 cuff h0m 0.55 Y 0.65 109 93 SNLS UBT
13 piping atach to cuff 0.607 Y 0.71 99 84 SNLS UBT
14 cuff run 8t 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS EC
15
cr p0ak turn &iron
0.54 N 0.64
111
94
RON
TABLE
16 8v op0n 0.38 N 0.45 158 134 TABLE
17 8v 8na pt att(fo/0r) 0.52 Y 0.61 115 98 SNLS UBT
18 8v tack at pkt 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
19
8v8v0 big pkt iron
0.72 N 0.85
83
71
RON
TABLE
20 8v big pkt attch 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT
21 8v0 big pkt /ia fini8h 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT
22 back pan0 box p0at 0.42 Y 0.49 143 121 SNLS UBT
23 back ok0 att 0.45 Y 0.53 133 113 SNLS UBT
24 back ok0 top 8t 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT
25
back patch fab iron
0.35 N 0.41
171
146
RON
TABLE
26 ab0 att to back patch fab 0.5 Y 0.59 120 102 SNLS UBT
27 patch fab att to back ok0 0.6 Y 0.71 100 85 SNLS UBT
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28
frnt bu8t /art 8t with 8i/0
co80
1.1 Y 1.29
55
46 SNLS UBT
29 frnt pckt h0m with trim 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
30
frnt pckt iron
0.6 N 0.71
100
85
RON
TABLE
31 frnt pckt att mark an/ 80t 0.65 N 0.76 92 78 TABLE
32 frnt pckt att 0.72 Y 0.85 83 71 SNLS UBT
33 bottom btn pkt h0m (fo/0r) 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT
34 B/H pkt att (kan8ai) 0.66 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT
35 frnt back 80t(8v, cr & cuff) 1.33 N 1.56 45 38 TABLE
36 8hou/0r att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT
37 8hou/0r top 8t 0.48 Y 0.56 125 106 SNLS UBT
38 cr att 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT
39 cr fini8h upto8atin tap0 0.65 Y 0.76 92 78 SNLS UBT
40 cr fini8h abov0 8atin tap0 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
41 8v tack 0.4 Y 0.47 150 128 SNLS UBT
42 gu0880t & btm 8i/0 0/g0 8t 0.659 Y 0.78 91 77 SNLS UBT
43 80 O/L&btm gu880t O/L 1.2 Y 1.41 50 43 5T O/L
44 8v top 8t &gu880t T/S 1.08 Y 1.27 56 47 DNLS
45 8i/0 80am att wth W/C ab0 0.95 Y 1.12 63 54 SNLS UBT
46 8i/0 80am O/L 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 5T O/L
47 8i/0 80am top 8t 1.15 Y 1.35 52 44 FOA
48 p0at making 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT
49 cuff att 0.655 Y 0.77 92 78 SNLS UBT
50 cuff fini8h 0.69 Y 0.81 87 74 SNLS UBT
51 cufftop 8t 0.68 Y 0.80 88 75 SNLS UBT
52 btm 8ta 8t 0.35 Y 0.41 171 146 SNLS UBT
53 btm h0m 0.85 Y 1.00 71 60 SNLS UBT
54 Tota 31.89 Y 37.52
TOTAL SAM 31.89 37.52
OPERATOR SAM 25.34 29.81
NON-OPERATOR SAM 6.55 7.71
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2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department

The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the
particular style demands. The embroidery section is the centralized and the second largest
embroidery unit in Asia.
The embroidery section receives the garment, style and the embroidery details Irom
the merchandisers in the Iorm oI the hard copy Iormat which is generally maintained in
company, the department will maintain the Iile Ior all the Iormats received and they will also
get a sample oI the garment on which the embroidery has been already done and they will use
this as their reIerence sample / piece.
As soon as the department receives the details they check the design that has to be
done and they scan the design using the CAD soItware and then they digitize the design and
check Ior the number oI stitches involved, area the design has to cover, the style oI the stitch
involved Ior the design, thread colours required, thread tex, starting point oI the design on the
garment while perIorming the operation etc., all these things are calculated and tabulated in
the soItcopy Iormat and give to the merchandiser and aIter an approval Irom them they start
the Iurther operation .
AIter the design has been Iinalized then they do the embroidery Ior the samples that
has to be produced to the buyer, these samples are done Ior about 6 garments and it is
something done against the actual or exact order quantity. AIter the samples have been
generated then they conduct the pilot run in the embroidery section.
Once the order has been conIirmed and the exact order quantity that has to be
produced is known then they start the bulk production during the production the embroidery
action on the garment is done in two ways one is aIter the entire garment has been sewn and
the other case is aIter the garment panels has been cut and beIore sewing them into a
complete garment.
The embroidery section receives the garments Irom the sewing Iloor or Irom the
cutting department and then they start their embroidery process.
AIter the embroidery is been done Ior the Iirst set oI the garment or the cut parts
received then they send them to the trimming and the checking section Ior every machine
there are operators Ior this process.
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The operators are provided with hearing aids in this department because oI the
maximum noise that is been produced by the machines.







SLarL
8ecelve deslgns from Lhe merchanL
Scan and punch deslgn
SLrlke off of deslgn
Samples Lo be done agalnsL orders
ConducL plloL run of Lhe sLyles
SLarL bulk producLlon
1rlmmlng checklng
acklng
uellvery
SLyle reconclllaLlon
Lnd
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2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department
Once the garment has been Iinished with all the operations then they are sent to the
washing department Ior the washing or Iinishing that has to be done Ior that particular style
according to the buyers speciIications and hence it plays a vital role in the Iinal Ieel and the
texture oI the garment which has to match the speciIications oI the buyer 00.
The merchandiser aIter getting the sample done, they bring the original sample that
will be sent to the merchants by the buyer and they will also get the sample done in the
Iactory and then they show both the samples and the speciIications and ask the washing
department to match the Iactory sample with the buyer sent sample with respect to the Ieel
and the texture, Ior this the merchandiser himselI/herselI comes to the washing department in
case oI samples.
The washing unit will now check the garment Ior the diIIerent aspects like,
O Type oI the material.
O The texture that is under demand.
O The Ieel and look oI the garment under demand.
O Types oI labels that are been used in the garment.
O Dye stuIIs used Ior the garment (iI it is a coloured Iabric).
O Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment.
O Types oI threads used Ior in sewing.
O Types oI chemicals that should be used to get the desired Iinish.
O The aIter eIIects oI those chemicals on the Iabric.
O The sensitivity criteria oI the Iabric.
O The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.
O The sequence oI the processes.
O Temperature at which the garment has to be treated.
O Duration oI the treatment.

AIter coming to a conclusion oI what recipe has to be used Ior the garment they start treating
the garments in the desired sequence.
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At Iirst they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise, suppose the
garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the similar manner then
such styles are clubbed together irrespective oI their styles.
AIter this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyer`s speciIications. In this
washing there are two types.
. Wet processing
. Dry processing
First the dry processing is carried out and then the wet processing is been Iollowed. In the dry
processing there are Iour diIIerent types they are,
. Grinding
. Ripping or Blowout
3. Sandblasting
. Crinkling
AIter the dry processing the next main thing which has to be done is wet processing. Wet
processing involves mainly two types, they are
. Dyeing: this is mainly done using two types oI dyes which are reactive dyes and
pigment dyes, these two dyes are more commonly used in practice and sometimes the
usage oI the dyes depends on the Iabric and the buyer demands and requirements.
. Washing process: AIter dyeing is Iinished the Iabrics or the garments are taken to the
washing process. There are diIIerent types oI washing procedures involved and they
are classiIied as Iollows,
O Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry
O SoItener wash
O Desize wash
O Enzyme wash
O Stone enzyme wash
O Rubber ball wash
O Denim wash
O Bleach wash
O Tinting/ T- staining

Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand Ior dyeing so at such
situations they are sent directly to the washing process Irom the dry processing stage or else
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the original procedure that is Iollowed in the company is that Iirst the garments are sent to the
dry processing and then Irom there to the wet processing where it is Iirst sent to the dyeing
and then to the washing process.
AIter the entire process is done then it is Iollowed by the hydro extraction where in
which a speciIied lot oI garments are put into the hydro extracting machine depending on the
tumbler capacity and then the excess oI water which had accumulated in the previous stages
will be extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum pressure that has to be used
Ior that particular style / garment.
Then the garments are dried using the drier. AIter the garments are dried they are
inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not involve any
organized way, any garment Irom the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected according
to the criteria that will be speciIied to them by the merchandiser.
Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the Iinishing and the packing
section or sometimes iI the garments has to be attached with some accessories or trims aIter
the washing and dyeing stages then such styles are sent to the production Iloor to Iinish the
leIt over job on them and then sent to the Iinishing and the packing department.
The washing department in this unit (Unit ) is the centralized one Ior the units
located in Bangalore and its surrounding areas so the washing unit will be receiving the
garments Irom diIIerent units Ior the washing purposes hence this department has to keep in
track oI the garments, quantity oI the garments received, processes that has to be carried out
Ior them, the stage in which they are, duration required Ior the process to be Iinished Ior the
garments according to the types oI the washes prescribed Ior them, etc., hence this
department maintains a record in which they Iill in the details oI the garment style number,
PO number, item number, quantity received and the day and date oI recieval. The department
maintains these details both in the soIt as well as in the hard copy Iormat. The department
will enter the details in the ERP. Whenever the washing unit receives or delivers the garment
lot Irom the diIIerent units then the communication is mainly through the e-mails and also
phone calls.

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SLarL
8ecelpL of goods from
dlfferenL unlLs
SegregaLlon (!C wlse
unlL wlse shade wlse)
Washlng
As per buyer
WeL
rocesslng
uyelng
8eacLlve lgmenL
Washlng
sofLener/acld/deslze/enzyme/sLone/
rubber ball/sLone
enzyme/LlnLlng/normal waLer wash/
dlp n dry/denlm
ury process
grlndlng/rlpplng/blowouL/sand
blasLlng/crlnkllng/whlskerlng/ severen
Pydro LxLracLlon
urylng
lnspecLlon (8andom)
AccounLlng despaLch
Lo dlfferenL unlLs
Lnd

































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2.16. QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department
"uality is the major criteria Ior any product and the same rule applied even to
garment industries also. In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has
split up their job into diIIerent stages oI manuIacturing and there are classiIied into Iour
major groups which are as Iollows.

O Pre-production audit
In this stage auditing is mainly done Ior the stages which come beIore the
production and that is the sampling stage. Here the auditing is done Ior all samples
and precisely Ior the size set samples and also Ior the pilot production garments. The
size set samples are given importance to because they are mainly asked by the buyer
Ior checking the dimensions oI the garment hence an extra stress is given to these
samples and the auditing Ior them is mainly done Ior the measurements oI the
garment and the measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment.
For example: iI it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the
length oI the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance oI the
belt loops, etc.,
For the pilot run production also the garments are checked Ior the dimensions
and also Ior the placement oI the accessories and trims Ior example, the label
attachment areas, etc.,

O Cutting audit
In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage oI the garment production the
auditing is Iurther divided into many other departments which are,
. Spreading
. Relay cut
3. Band kniIe
. Shade
. Hard pattern


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O Sewing audit:
In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas, they are
. In line audit:
Here the garments are checked during their diIIerent stages oI
manuIacturing. Here the entire manuIacturing process Ior a particular garment
is split into the required number oI parts may be two three and then at the
end oI each stage the inspection is carried out by the person whose main job is
auditing.
For example iI the garment that is being manuIactured is a shirt then the entire
manuIacturing process is broken down into stages like, the Iinish oI Iront,
Iinish iI back, sleeve attach Iinish and then the entire shirt. In this case the
shirt is being checked at each stage and the auditing personnel will be
provided by certain speciIications and also the tolerance limits based on which
he checks the garment. Here every single garment is checked.

2. End - line audit
Here the garments are checked aIter the entire process is over and the
speciIications are mainly based on the dimensions oI the garment at the critical
positions and then the placements oI the labels.

O Button/button hole
In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himselI as the
job is limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operator
does it himselI as and when he Iinishes his part oI the job with the garment
and the operator will be given or taught about the speciIications Ior the
garment to attach the button/ making the button holes.

AIter the auditing is done in each and every stage the deIects, Iindings and other related
inIormation will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own Iormats and they will
be sent to the respective departments Ior rectiIication



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2.17. FINISHING DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department

The Iinishing department is the department which comes aIter all the departments and
it plays an equally important role in the Iinal appearance oI the garment. This department
includes majorly oI the Iollowing steps,
O Trimming
This involves the removal oI the extra threads Irom the garment at the stitched areas.
O Inspection:
The inspection carried out here is according to the A"L . system and sometimes it
depends on the buyer also i.e., iI the buyer emphasizes Ior a 00 inspection then the
company has to do as speciIied.
O Semi - pressing
This happens when a garment is diIIicult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes
Irom the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing Ior the garments and
then inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.
O Pressing
The pressing is done aIter the garment has been completely inspected and the
garments are pressed on the basis oI how they will be Iolded during packing.
O Tagging section
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they
are sent Ior tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and
miscellaneous labels iI any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the
garments are Iolded according to the buyer`s speciIication and also they are either
Iolded plainly or sometimes they are Iolded aIter they are put to the hangers as per the
buyer`s speciIications again.
The packing material, PCB details, number oI size ratios that are supposed to
be put in are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these
speciIications.


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O Packing
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria Ior the
packing oI the garments they are as Iollows,
There are generally two kinds oI packing the garment,
. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will
be speciIied by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag
packing and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria) is arranged
in the carton box.
. The other method is that the garments are just Iolded and arranged in the
carton boxes without putting them in the poly bag.
The packing criteria Iollowed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in diIIerent
ways which is as Iollows,

O Solid Packing
In this method oI packing, the carton box will include garments oI single
colour and same size.
For example, 0 shirts oI a similar colour say navy blue and the size say S will
be put in one carton box.
O Ratio Packing
In this method the carton box includes garments oI same colour but oI
diIIerent sizes according to the ratio.
For example, S M L XL 5 7 7 5.
O Mixed Packing
In this method the carton box includes garments oI diIIerent colours but oI
same size or garments with diIIerent colours and diIIerent sizes in a particular ratio
Iorm.

AIter the packing is done the garments are kept in the godown/stores until the buyer sends the
buyer "C Ior the inspection purpose beIore delivering them and once the "C arrives he will
check them according to the . A"L level and then see iI the garments has to be accepted or
rejected.

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