Although the anchor is a sturdy bit of kit, there are certain precautions that should be taken to ensure the

correct functioning. When heaving up the anchor, ensure that it is washed down properly, freeing the ground soil and debris from around the flukes and fluke swivel areas. If this is left, the debris can quickly build up and solidify, reducing the fluke angle and the efficiency of the anchor. It also reduces the build-up of mud in the chain locker and helps keep the suctions free. When chain has not been properly washed down, it can easily be seen by the flying dried mud that is thrown around the foc'sle when the anchor is next let go. Here is another point to think about. A large lump of dried mud can be rock hard. If this hits one of the foc'sle party, especially in the face, severe injuries could result.

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If the ship is of the size and trade where breaking the anchor for buoy moorings might occur, it is wise to break the joining shackle at periodic intervals to ensure that it is not seized.

Once, as Chief Officer, having spent two days on an old 'type 14' general cargo ship, trying to break first one cable then the other ready for mooring in Hong Kong, I learnt the hard way. In the end, we cut through with burning gear. It turned out that the ship, which was 10 years old, had never had the Kenter joining shackles or any other broken, even in dry dock.

Occasionally, particularly after an anchorage when strain might have been put on the anchor, have the anchor walked out and view it from the jetty, looking for any sign of a bent shank or fluke. Check the main pin on the D anchor joining shackle. See that the split pin is in position and replace this if it is worn or missing. The main pin on the joining shackle can be spot welded to prevent loss. Wire markings are used to assist with recognition of the number of shackles. This has been neglected on many ships but, when the cable is dirty or painting has been neglected, the wire marking can still be useful. The marking should be as follows: At 15 fathoms: One turn of wire on the first stud from each side of the joining shackle at 30 fathoms: Two turns of wire on the second stud from each side of the joining shackle

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at 45 fathoms: Three turns of wire on the third stud from each side of the joining shackle. Then a similar pattern for further shackles. Ensure that the cables are marked in clear white paint and that they are repainted regularly. This is still the best way for knowing how many shackles are out. The best way for this is to have white paint standing by for marking each time you heave your anchor. Regular greasing of the windlass and removal of old grease, particularly from the brake spindle, ensures that the brake can be fully screwed up. This should be carried out frequently, especially on heavy bulk cargo vessels where the build-up of debris can mix with the grease and form a hard substance that can prevent the brakes from being properly applied. Check the compression bar for wear, particularly at the sides, as this might enable the bar to slide up from the chain. Have the chain stoppers greased regularly and ensure that they can be tightened fully. Check that the hawse pipe covers and the spurling pipe covers fit properly and that, whether cement or foam is used for the spurling pipe, it is effective in stopping water ingress. Make sure that old cement and foam are removed from the spurling pipe. Ensure that your stock of groundwork equipment is adequate for the tasks expected. The spare joining shackles, D rings and links should all be kept well greased and the spile pins ready. The wire strop for hanging off the anchor should be of the safe working load for the anchor and the stenhouse slip should be in good condition.

30.2 Anchor Procedures

Regardless of the fact that you should be on the bridge honing your skills for command, you could well find yourself stationed forward for anchoring. While all the orders will emanate from the bridge, always remember that they cannot see what is going on under the bow and, at night, can see very little of the foc'sle. It therefore remains for you to keep the bridge informed, with the appropriate reports, and oversee the safe anchoring or heaving up of the anchor. Prior to arrival at the anchorage, it is good procedure to clear away the anchors. There are two reasons for this, one is that the ship will be entering coastal waters before anchoring and it is good seamanship to have your anchors cleared in coastal waters, and the other is that it gives you time to clear the anchors properly and ensure that everything is in order. If you are anchoring at night, check that the lights are working and cleared of any covers if coming in from a long sea passage. Always clear away both anchors.

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In deep water or on large vessels with heavy anchors, it is wise to walk the anchors back to just above the water. Then the Master can decide whether he wishes to walk them back all the way to the bottom or let them go from this position. If letting the anchor run, make sure that no one is standing in front of the anchor cable. Don't forget to report the anchors ready for letting go and, when in the anchor position, check that all is clear for letting go, again advising the bridge.

Communications must be clear during anchoring.

30.3 Walking out the Anchor

This procedure is acceptable but certain precautions have to be taken. The vessel must not be drifting with a higher speed over the ground than the payout speed of the motor of the windlass (approx 0.1 knot). Due to the big gear ratio in the anchor windlass, a drifting speed higher than the payout speed will easily cause an overspeeding overload of the windlass motor and damage the motor, ie the vessel will be pulling the chain out. The chain stopper has to be engaged before the chain is tensioned. The chain stopper is the only element designed to arrest the vessel's movements. The anchor windlass motor must never be connected when the chain is under tension. If the chain is under tension, the main engine has to be used to slacken it before connection to the winch. A golden rule for all anchor and mooring equipment is that both the cable lifter unit and the mooring drums must always be kept disconnected from the motor while under tension. Before connecting a tensioned chain or a mooring line, the tension must be reduced below the nominal pull of the unit. It is impossible to control a ship to a speed of 0.1 knots for periods of up to one hour, so walking back the anchor the whole way is not an option unless in very calm waters with little or no current as this will put severe strain on the windlass that it is not designed to take. Once the chain is paid out it must not be held on the brake. Instead the stoppers must be put on and the cable slacked back until the weight of the cable is held on them as they are designed for this purpose.

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The bridge is totally reliant on you telling them the direction of the cable and the weight on it and this should be constantly reported during the anchoring procedure.

30.4 Heaving Anchor

When heaving anchor, the cable should not be straining against the windlass. Instead the engines should be used to take the strain off the cable while heaving. Once again, the bridge is waiting for you to advise them of any strain on the cable and the direction the cable is leading. Ensure that, as the cable comes in, the shackle number is passed to the bridge and that you repaint these shackles with white paint for future identification. When the anchor is coming to the surface of the water, check that it is clear and, if so, report this. At night, you must have a bright beam light to shine on the anchor. When the anchor is up and stowed you can put the brake and stoppers on and take it out of gear. If the Master requires, the anchors can then be secured for sea. In all anchor operations there is an element of danger, so injuries happen every year. You should, therefore, be purely in a supervisory position and not driving the windlass or doing other work.

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