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century costume collec Synthetic fibre is artificial and chemically created thats why it is easy to tweak and manipulate it to form a product of ones choice by eliminating the discrepancies. Some examples of synthetic fibre are nylon, polyester and acrylic. Nylon is the second largest most used synthetic fibre in the United States of America. When it was first introduced in the market in 1931 it attracted a lot of attention as it was the first noncellulose based material that was made solely from petroleum and coal. It was vastly used in tents, parachutes, tires and ropes during the World War II

Nylon
The invention of nylon in 1931 created a rev lution because it was the first non-cellulose fiber made directly from petrochemicals or coal. The first commercial production of nylon was in 1939 for womens hosiery. During World War II, the government redirected nylon from use in consumer products to the military for tents, parachutes, tires, and ropes. Nylon is the second most used synthetic fiber in the United States. Some of the characteristics of nylon include: abrasion resistance washability resistance to oil and most chemicals low moisture absorbency resiliency resistance to mildew, mold, and moths Nylon yellows with age. Some common uses of nylon include the fol lowing: blouses lingerie

swimwear ski apparel raincoats Some trade names for nylon are: Antron Durasoft Supplex

Polyester
The first commercial production of polyes ter was in 1953. Polyester wash and wear wrinkle-free garments were popular during the 1960s and 1970s. Modern polyesters resemble 2 Synthetic Fibers in Costume Collections Conserve O Gram 16/4 National Park Service 3 Synthetic Fibers in Costume Collections National Park Service Conserve O Gram 16/4 silk, wool, and cotton, making it difficult to distinguish them from natural fibers. Other fibers are often blended with polyester further making identification difficult. Polyester is the most used synthetic fiber in the U.S. Some characteristics of polyester include the follow ing: strength resiliency resistance to most chemicals quick drying washability resistance to mildew

 wrinkle resistance retains heat set pleats and creases Oil stains are difficult to remove from polyester fabrics. Some major uses for polyester fibers include: blouses shirts dresses ties suits Trade names for polyester are: Dacron Fortrel Thermoloft Microloft

Acrylic
The first commercial production of acrylic fiber in the U.S. was in 1950. Acrylic fibers are made from acrylonitrile, a petrochemical. The combination of acrylonitrile with small amounts of other chemicals improves the abil ity of the fiber to absorb dyes. Acrylic fibers are unique among synthetic fibers because they have an uneven surface. Some characteristics of acrylic include: wool-like feel softness and warmth shape retention resiliency

quick drying resistance to moths resistance to sunlight resistance to oil and chemicals washability Acrylic fabrics suffer from piling and abrasion problems. Some major uses for acrylic fiber include: sweaters socks sportswear blankets Trade names for acrylic fibers include: Orlon Acrilan Creslan

Polyurethane
The first commercial use of polyurethane was in the early 1950s. Polyurethane materials include bonded fabrics, spandex, synthetic suede, leather look fabrics and water repellant materials. A popular material in the 1960s and 1970s was the wet-look fabric, usually composed of polyurethane laminated materials. Many examples in collections include coats, jackets, belts, shoes, and purses. Polyurethane is one of the more problematic synthetic materials because it is degraded by exposure to light, heat, and chemicals. Materi als can show deterioration such as: discoloration

cracking 2 Synthetic Fibers in Costume Collections Conserve O Gram 16/4 National Park Service 3 Synthetic Fibers in Costume Collections National Park Service Conserve O Gram 16/4 delamination of layers distortion (bubbling) of the exterior fabric Solvents used for dry-cleaning can soften adhe sives holding the layers together. As the mate rial breaks down it often becomes sticky due to plasticizers migrating to the surface. Plasticiz ers can stain adjacent materials and corrode metals. Polyurethane materials are especially susceptible to deterioration by fungi. Polyurethane bonded fabrics were popular in the 1960s. Deterioration of bonded fabrics usually occurs when the polyurethane foam starts to break down causing the backing to separate from the base fabric. Polyurethane foams can yellow, become brittle, and crumble. Multi-layered garments can be discolored if the underlying layer of polyurethane has yellowed.

Spandex
Spandex, a type of polyurethane, was first pro duced in 1959. During the 1960s, spandex replaced rubber in bathing suits and under wear. Some characteristics of spandex include: light weight resistance to body oils abrasion resistance strength and durability

 can be stretched repeatedly and still recover its original length and shape Common uses of spandex include the follow ing: swimwear jackets ski apparel exercise wear support hose Trade names for spandex include: Lycra Cleerspan Dorlastan Glospan

Preservation of Synthetic Materials

Textiles are among the most sensitive in museum collections with a particular vulner ability to light, humidity, and temperature. Modern costumes were not made for longev ity and were only expected to last for a season rather than a lifetime. Preventative maintenance includes monitoring the collection, and examining and recording the condition of the objects on a regular basis. It is important to limit light exposure, reduce UV, and maintain a stable environment of 5055% RH and temperature of 68-72F. If the costume has an odor, isolate the piece from the rest of the collection. Fabrics with coatings may become sticky when the plas ticizer starts to break down. The plasticizers can migrate to the surface and stain adjacent objects. In these instances, use a barrier mate

rial such as a PTFE (Teflon) coated fabric between layers of the sticky fabrics to prevent adhesion to itself. If the decomposition of the costume is too far advanced, it may be neces sary to document and remove the piece from Synthetic fibres are not natural, they are synthesized artificially by a chemical reaction. This chemical reaction takes place between an alcoholic and an acidic substance. A brief overview of the process is that several small molecules combine to form a large molecule and then these large molecules attach themselves to other large molecules and form a chain. Some basic differences between polyester fibres and other natural fibres is that the former is water resistant, but can absorb oil and is used in products where conventional fabric or fibre is useless for e.g home furnishings, computers, insulation material, quilts etc. It is also less prone to staining

History
In 1926, United States-based E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Co. began research into very large molecules and synthetic fibers. This early research, headed by W.H. Carothers, centered on what became nylon, the first synthetic fiber. Soon after, in the years 1939-41, British research chemists took interest in the du Pont studies and conducted their own research in the laboratories of Calico Printers Association, Ltd. This work resulted in the creation of the polyester fiber known in England as Terylene. In 1946, du Pont purchased the right to produce this polyester fiber in the United States. The company conducted some further developmental work, and in 1951, began to market the fiber under the name Dacron. During the ensuing years, several companies became interested in polyester fibers and produced their own versions of the product for different uses. Today, there are two primary types of polyester, PET (polyethylene terephthalate) and PCDT (poly-1, 4cyclohexylene-dimethylene terephthalate). PET, the more popular type, is applicable to a wider variety of uses. It is stronger than PCDT, though PCDT is more elastic and resilient. PCDT is suited to the heavier consumer uses, such as draperies and furniture coverings. PET can be used alone or blended with other fabrics to make clothing that is wrinkle and stain resistant and retains its shape.

Raw Materials
Polyester is a chemical term which can be broken into poly, meaning many, and ester, a basic organic chemical compound. The principle ingredient used in the manufacture of polyester is ethylene, which is derived from petroleum. In this process, ethylene is the polymer, the chemical building block of polyester, and the chemical process that produces the finished polyester is called polymerization.

The Manufacturing Process

Polyester is manufactured by one of several methods. The one used depends on the form the finished polyester will take. The four basic forms are filament, staple, tow, and fiberfill. In the filament form, each individual strand of polyester fiber is continuous in length, producing smooth-surfaced fabrics. In staple form, filaments are cut to short, predetermined lengths. In this form polyester is easier to blend with other fibers. Tow is a form in which continuous filaments are drawn loosely together. Fiberfill is the voluminous form used in the manufacture of quilts, pillows, and outerwear. The two forms used most frequently are filament and staple.

Manufacturing Filament Yarn

Polymerization

1 To form polyester, dimethyl terephthalate is first reacted with ethylene glycol in the presence of a catalyst at a temperature of 302-410F (150-210C). 2 The resulting chemical, a monomer (single, non-repeating molecule) alcohol, is combined with terephthalic acid and raised to a temperature of 472F (280C). Newlyformed polyester, which is clear and molten, is extruded through a slot to form long ribbons.

Drying

3 After the polyester emerges from polymerization, the long molten ribbons are allowed to cool until they become brittle. The material is cut into tiny chips and completely dried to prevent irregularities in consistency.

Melt spinning

4 Polymer chips are melted at 500-518F (260-270C) to form a syrup-like solution. The solution is put in a metal container called a spinneret and forced through its tiny holes, which are usually round, but may be pentagonal or any other shape to produce special fibers. The number of holes in the spinneret determines the size of the yarn, as the emerging fibers are brought together to form a single strand. 5 At the spinning stage, other chemicals may be added to the solution to make the resulting material flame retardant, antistatic, or easier to dye.

Drawing the fiber

6 When polyester emerges from the spinneret, it is soft and easily elongated up to five times its original length. The stretching forces the random polyester molecules to align in a parallel formation. This increases the strength, tenacity, and resilience of the fiber. This time, when the filaments dry, the fibers become solid and strong instead of brittle. 7 Drawn fibers may vary greatly in diameter and length, depending on the characteristics desired of the finished material. Also, as the fibers are drawn, they may be textured or twisted to create softer or duller fabrics.

Winding

8 After the polyester yarn is drawn, it is wound on large bobbins or flat-wound packages, ready to be woven into material.

Manufacturing Staple Fiber

In making polyester staple fiber, polymerization, drying, and melt spinning (steps 1-4 above) are much the same as in the manufacture of filament yarn. However, in the melt spinning process, the spinneret has many more holes when the product is staple fiber. The rope-like bundles of polyester that emerge are called tow.

Drawing tow

1 Newly-formed tow is quickly cooled in cans that gather the thick fibers. Several lengths of tow are gathered and then drawn on heated rollers to three or four times their original length.

Crimping

2 Drawn tow is then fed into compression boxes, which force the fibers to fold like an accordion, at a rate of 9-15 crimps per inch (3-6 per cm). This process helps the fiber hold together during the later manufacturing stages.

Setting

3 After the tow is crimped, it is heated at 212-302F (100-150C) to completely dry the fibers and set the crimp. Some of the crimp will unavoidably be pulled out of the fibers during the following processes.

Cutting

4 Following heat setting, tow is cut into shorter lengths. Polyester that will be blended with cotton is cut in 1.25-1.50 inch (3.2-3.8 cm) pieces; for rayon blends, 2 inch (5 cm) lengths are cut. For heavier fabrics, such as carpet, polyester filaments are cut into 6 inch (15 cm) lengths.

Although not very popular in the rest of the world polyester fiber became very popular in the United States of America shortly after being introduced there. A major reason behind it was that that polyester fabric was not very high maintenance and did not wrinkle easily. A lot of research is being done in this particular sector and a new type of polyester fibre was introduced in the year 1991 by the name of micro fiber and its texture was very much similar to silk which is again a natural fiber that is made by worms. Research is being done in several universities of USA in which they are trying to make a strain of polyester whose strength can be compared with a super fiber that is used to make bullet proof vests Kevlar. They say that if this is successful then they may be able to make bullet proof car and airplane material out of the same.

Some basic properties of polyester that makes it unique are it resistance to rotting, does not let sir pass, melting point low, chemical resistant, quick drying, cheaper in price as compared to other materials, not environmental friendly etc.

Advantages

Synthetic fibers do not depend either on an agricultural crop or on animal farming. They are generally cheaper than natural fiber. Synthetic fibers possess unique characteristics which make them popular dress material.

They dry up quickly, are durable, readily available and easy to maintain.

Disadvantages

Synthetic fibers melt before burning Some electrical charge accumulates on the synthetic fibers. The electrical charge causes irritation of the skin. Low melting temperature Extremely hazardous to the environment. Can shrink rapidly and suffocate the user. Can make you overheat Can make you cold when wet

There are several methods of manufacturing synthetic fibers but the most common is the MeltSpinning Process. It involves heating the fiber until it begins to melt, then you must draw out the melt with tweezers as quickly as possible. The next step would be to draw the molecules by aligning them in a parallel arrangement. This brings the fibers closer together and allows them to crystallize and orient. Lastly, is Heat-Setting. This utilizes heat to permeate the shape/dimensions of the fabrics made from heat-sensitive fibers. Synthetic fibers account for about half of all fiber usage, with applications in every field of fiber and textile technology. Although many classes of fiber based on synthetic polymers have been evaluated as potentially valuable commercial products, four of them - nylon, polyester, acrylic and polyolefin - dominate the market. These four account for approximately 98 per cent by volume of synthetic fiber production, with polyester alone accounting for around 60 per cent