bACK 2
By Jack Robertiello
BASICS
B2B In the Spirit
Effective tasting is crucial to successful drink development.
W
hether crafting winning cocktails
with unique ingredients and subtle
twists or mixing more pedestrian li­
bations, understanding the basics of the spirits
behind the back bar is a must. Distinguishing
between a rye vodka and the neutral grain vari­
ety, or knowing when to nod at Tanqueray and
when to go with Beefeater, for example, leads
to happier customers and more drink sales.
Success in this area stems from knowing how
to properly taste these and other spirits.
Learning to be a pro is not complicated.
Essentially, the tasting process involes observ­
ing and writing down everything about a
spirit’s look, smell and taste.
The first step is a visual inspection of the
spirit in question. What is its color? Clear,
cloudy or murky? In general, clarity suggests
purity and depth of color indicates age.
Next comes smell, or “nosing.” With the
exception of the five core flavors—sweet, sour,
bitter, salty and savory—most taste sensations
come through the nose. If you do not believe
this, pour a bit of Scotch into your mouth while
holding your nose. You may taste saltiness and
sweetness, but not much else.
When smelling, approach the glass gingerly,
letting the initial alcohol blast pass and the
Step by Step
1. Look at the spirit. Is it clear, cloudy or murky? What does the color indicate?
2. Smell it. You may swirl the liquid slightly, as you do with wine. But wait
a moment and then lower your nose slowly since swirling also will bring
out the alcohol. As you sniff all the way down, begin to pick out aromas.
Note them and try to decipher additional, specific smells.
3. Taste it. Pour about an ounce into your mouth and observe what
happens as the spirit moves across your tongue. Swish the liquid around
your mouth. Breathe in a bit of air through your clenched teeth. Note
your observations (Fruits? Nuts? Grains? Confections? Leather? Spices?)
Then spit and re-taste. Serious tasters wait until they have finished
tasting to start drinking.
4. Observe the finish. Does it dissipate quickly or is it long-lasting? Is it rich or
weak? While finish matters more with aged spirits, it always must be clean.
62 | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009
other aromas emerge. Then, get your nose into
the glass and start sniffing.
Naming the aromas that arise may be diffi­
cult at first. As you build a flavor vocabulary,
it becomes easier. Fruits, flowers, spices, herbs,
sweet and earthy qualities are the most com­
mon aromas. But there are others.
You may recognize the aroma of fruit. But
you may be unable to get more specific. Start
thinking systematically. Is it tree fruit (apple,
pear)? Bramble fruit (blackberry, raspberry)?
Tropical (banana, pineapple)? If it is citrus,
does it taste like a lemon or an orange? If it is
the latter, is it a Temple orange or a tangerine?
Can you sense orange zest or bitter pith? Look
for other aromas as well.
Master this world of flavors and aromas.
Know the differences between chocolate and
cocoa, different spices (nutmeg, clove, cinna­
mon) and various herbs (sage, oregano, thyme).
Fix in your mind what leather, brine, hay, grass,
tar, lanolin, wood and other organic materials
smell like—they need to be part of your flavor
and aroma vocabulary. When you encounter
a scent you don’t recognize, discover its origin.
Actual tasting is the easiest part of the experi­
ence. Sip about an ounce and try to extract all
the qualities that form the flavor profile, again
relying on your flavor vocabulary. Pay particular
attention to the aftertaste, also known as the
finish. Is the taste hot from alcohol? Does it dissi­
pate quickly or last awhile? What flavors emerge
at the end? Finish can tell you much about the
quality of a product. Look for balance.
By de-mystifying spirits in your mind, you
will be able to build better drinks, fall for fewer
questionable sales pitches and, ultimately,
boost beverage profits.  l
Jack Robertiello has worked with or written
about beer, wine, spirits, food and restaurants
for most of his adult life. Robertiello is the for-
mer editor of Cheers. He has written for the
Food Network, Metropolitan Home and The
Washington Post.
www.cheersonline.com