CONTENTS Particulars

Acknowledgement Plant Layout Singeing & Desizeing Continuous Bleaching Range (CBR) Mercerizer Dyeing Department Printing Finishing Folding Lab Deptt.

Page No.
2 3 8 11 13 15 28 41 44 46

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
This report marks the completion of the six week industrial training programme undertaken as a part of B.Tech textile chemistry under M.D.U. I am highly thankful to Mr. Pradeep Pathak, C.E.O.,Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd. firstly for permitting us to undertake this training at such a modern processing house and overall for the facilities that were made available for us in all the possible ways during this period. We are also thankful to Mr.Saif ( Senior Manager, HR Dept.),&Ms Priya(HR Dept.) for guiding us during the training period. I am also indebted to all the staff members and the workers of the Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd.

I express my heartiest thanks to Dr. Rishi P. Jamdagni(Director), Dr.S.K.Dhamija (Training Officer) Prof. A.K. Patra (H.O.D.,T.C.) & all the faculty members,T.I.T.S. Bhiwani for arranging my training at Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd.

Prepared By: Atul Grover Aniket Sharma Vikas Goyal

T.I.T&S BHIWANI.

B. cabin

Singeing OSTHOFF

S.E & D

Dsg.. Dlpment

E N G G. D E P T.

Cabin For FSG.

PRTG CLR. KIT.

Clr. Kit. for dyg.

M E R S E R I S E R

Rotary Ptg. m/c Continuous ager

CBR
Rotary Ptg. m/c Polymeriser Polymeriser

P A D S T E A M
C P B

Stenter-6

Stenter-5

Stenter-5

Print soaper

Sa nfo rise r

Dyeing cabin

PAD-DRY
Sanforiser

LAB.
W

N E S Hydrolic jigger, Jigger, Jet & Winch dyeing m/c

SARALA GREIGE ROOM

S T O R E

Fdg. room

Water Temple & Garden Parking Securit y Peache r m/c Shahi Greige Room Softening Plant A/C Securit y

W O R K E

P A R K I N G
Receptio n Room

M E S H Toile
t R O

P A R K G H

T O I L E CABIN T

P R O C E S S

Boiler &
N W E

Therm G R

pac

G A R D E N
H.R Meeting Room C.E.O Cabin

H O U S E

E C T P W R P

Account/ System

R P

CABIN
V. JET V. JET V. JET V. JET

H.J

D Y E I N W G J

Soft Flow W W W D E P A R W W W T M E W W N T J J J J

W J

Types of qualities processed in the company

Poplin Cambrick Cotton voil Twill Sateen Dobby Embroidery Yarn dyed Sheeting (reed=pick) Lycra Textured dobby

Preparatory wet processing 1. Singeing and desizeing

Specifications:
Name of machine osthoff singe Machine make Wuppertal ,germany Model 42327 wuppertal No. 6579 Objective of m/c :Singeing :- the short protruding fibres are removed burning, to get a smooth, even and clean looking surface, which is essential for subsequent dyeing and printing purposes. To avoid uneven dyeing, specks, haziness, pilling and to get smooth appearance. Desizing :- the sinzed fabric is given the enzymatic or oxidative desizing for the removal of size material from the fabric (where the size material is mainly starch)

Thread length Speed :-

45 mts.

1. For light weight (<150 glm) E.g. cotton voil 2. For heavier weight (.150 glm) Flame distance from fabric

100 mts/min.

80 mts. Min.

1. Lighter weight (<150 glm) 2. Heavier weight (>150 glm) No. Of burners Flame intensity Flame height

10mm 8 mm 2 (one for each face of fabric) 10 mili bar for fine fabric, 8 for coarser 8-10mm

Singeing position :1. Tangential singeing Used for lighter weight fabrics 2. Onto water cooled rollers Used for slightly heavier quality 3. Onto free guided rollers Used for very heavy qualities

Man power required No. Of shift /day Fuel used Gas :air mixture Roller width Working width Efficiency of singeing m/c Production of singeing m/c

4 3 LPG 1:4 2m 1.8m 80% 90,000-1,00,000/- 24hrs 80,000-50,000 /24hrs 60,000/24hrs 740 liters

For light weight For medium and For bottom weight

Liquor capacity

Two sensors are used to control feed liquor.

Brief description of the machine :

Brush rollers a :- rotates in opposite direction to the fabric movement and removes loose fibres from fabric surface and raises the protruding fibres to carry out effective singeing. Singeing zone :- here the protruding fibres aer singed by means of two burners, which work on opposite faces of fabric. Brush zone :- these rollers also rotates in opposite direction to the fabric movements and removes loose fibres that are singed from fabric.

Suction pump :- it is attached to brush roller b which sucks out the singed fibres from the brush rollers and collect them in the separate position. Desizing chamber :- here the fabric is given the oxidative desizing treatment. Pressing roller :- this roller presses the fabric on take up beam and gives frictional drive to the take up batch. Damping roller :- water is passed through the damping rollers and is used for fast dispersal of heat from fabric. Take up batch :- fabric that is singed and desized is taken up on this roller after a complete batch is prepared. It is covered with polythene sheet and kept for 16 hrs. Rotation after enzymatic desized, and 24 hrs. Rotation after oxidative desizing.

Recipe for desizing :1. Enzymatic Desize :GLM Speed Flame Position m/min <100 90-100 3 100-200 80 3 200-300 70-80 3 300-400 70-75 3 >400 70 3 Trough Temp. 65 65 65 70 70 Dwell Time 16 19 20 21 21 Batching Pr. (Bar) 2.5 2-2.5 2-2.5 1.5-2 1.5-2 Batching Time(Hrs) 8-10 8-10 8-12 10-12 10-12

2. Oxidative Desize GLM Speed Flame Position m/min <100 90-100 3 100-200 80 3 200-300 70-80 3 Trough Temp. RT RT RT Dwell Time 16 19 20 Batching Pr. (Bar) 2.5 2-2.5 2-2.5 Batching Time(Hrs) 24 24 24

2.Continuous Bleaching Range(CBR) :Specifications:

* machine make * model * machine length * average operational speed * threading length * fabric capacity of steamer * total capacity in running condition * number of operators * efficiency of machine * average daily production * roller width * working width .

Benninger,Switzerland Benninger, Agch 9290 172 feet 80 mts. / min. 500 mts. 1300 mts. 2000 mts. 2 operator 85% 1lakh meters / 24 hours 2mts. 1.5mts

Objective of machine:

To remove out the solubilised form {dextrin soluble} of starch from the fabric. To carry out the process of bleaching of desized / singed fabric. To carry out the process of scouring along with the process of bleaching in the same bath.

GLM Chemical H2O2

70-130 15

140-200 22

200&above 35

For White 35

Securone WBL ZMIN NaOH

1.5 5 6 16

1.5 5 7 22

1.5 5 7 22

1.5 5 7 15

The fabric that has been desized contains a coating of the solubilised size, enzyme, wetting agents and other chemicals.Surface and removes the solubilised size and other chemicals from the fabric. 1. Extracta: - Extracta are washing chambers. In this model of the CBR there are a total of seven wash chambers, two before the impacta, to remove any size present on the fabric, rest after the steamer (3 for the hot wash and the last is divided into two halves one for chambers have a temp of 80-90 C excepting the last which is maintained at a temp of 60 C(temperature of acid dosing chamber is 50 C) no chemicals are used during hot water wash. 2. Impacta: - In this chamber chemical (bleaching or scouring) dosing takes place. It is fitted with chemical pipelines to which valves are connected which maintain

The chemical proportion in the impacta at the right level Automatically. Temperature of this chamber is recommended to be 40-50 C. 3. Ben dip: - this is provided prior to the entry of the fabric into the steamer this is mainly useful for heavier fabrics like bottoms which may not wet to proper extent. So the heavier fabrics coming out of the impacta are given one more dip in their dip before they enter the steamer it is to be noted that dry steam may cause patches to appear in undesirable. 4. Steamer :- earlier all steamers used were of two types, where the fabric was either passed in stretched or else in platted manner for particular duration for reaction to be carried out. This machine has a comb steamer, where the same fabric is passed in stretched manner and then in relaxed form providing a dwell time of 15 min. For steaming prior to saturation, so that steaming is carried out by wet steam and no problem relating to dry steam, as mentioned earlier appears. 5. Drying cylinders: - in total there are thirty cylinders in set of ten. The first two cylinders where fabric first comes in contact with the cylinders are teflon coated. The first 20 cylinders are meant for drying and are steam heated and the last 10 cylinders are

maintained at room temperature when the fabric is to be taken for mercerising then drying is not required and fabric is passed below these cylinders. 6. Exhaust fans: - there are three exhaust fan fitted at the top of cylinders sets, they drive away the steam (coming out from the drying of the wet fabric) and avoid any chances of steam condensation on the fabric.

3. Mercerizer
Specifications:
o o o o o o o o o o o o

Machine make Model M/c type Threading length Speed Efficiency of the m/c Average production No. of operators Outlet caustic conc. Dwell time Roller width Working width

Benninger (Germany) agch 9240 uzwill padless, chainless m/c for hot mercerization 370 mts 60 mts./ min 90% 70,000 mts./24 hrs 2 operators + 1 helper 7-8be 46-50sec 2mts. 1.8mts.

Objective of the machine

Mercerization causes the de-convolution inside the cotton fabric, leading to increase in absorbency. Mercerization also increases the tensile and tearing strength of cotton fabric It also increases the cover of the fabric The machine is used for carry out hot mercerization, which has the following Dimensional stability

Advantage

1. Uniform penetration of alkali at higher temp. 2. No ring dyeing effects is observed. 3. Impregnation time is also reduced, leading to increase in speed and greater production capacity.

Disadvantage
Hot mercerization does not improve the fabric lustre as alkali treatment higher temp, makes the fabric surface rough/uneven so the light scattering from the surface becomes diffused, leading to poor fabric lustre.

Various zones of the machine

Wetting zone :-Conc. of alkali (weak lye) 6-8 be Impregnation zone

Impregnation conc. Quality Cotton (poplin) Twill Cotton voil Cotton flax Concentration of alkali(in be) 18 29 26 18

Impregnation temp. 60 c Dwelling time Stabilisation zone Temp. 45 sec. Conc. Of alkali(weak lye) 6-8 be. 85 c

Washing zone GLM

There is a counter flow from Speed m/min Temp Change Over Time

Caustic Soda

<100 100-200 200-300 300-400 >400

220-230 230-240 260-270 270-280 270-280

60 50 40 40 30-40

60 60 60 60-65 60-70

4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

4.Dyeing department Conventional dyeing range

Jet dyeing machine
In this machine, both fabric and water moves. Here we give movement to the water and fabric moves through the impact of jet of water. Both fabric and water moves in same direction. Jet dyeing machine is mainly used for polyester dyeing but it can be used for other quality also.

Machine name Manufacture No. Of machine Capacity Nozzle pressure Dye used Fabric used Total liquor Speed of fabric

Jet dyeing machine(u-shape) Devrekha 4 350kg 3kg/cm2 disperse, vat, reactive cellulosic, synthetic 600lt. 400mt/min

In case of polyester:

MLR Temperature pH

1:3 1300C 4-4.5

Soft flow machine:-

In this machine we use a roller called soft roller which help in reducing tension in fabric.

Machine name Manufacture No. Of machine No. Of worker Capacity Quality Dye used Temperature Nozzle pressure Total liquor Fabric speed

soft flow texfab india 1 2 400kg light to medium fabric disperse, vat, reactive 1300C for PET, 60-700C for cotton 0.5-1.0 bar 3600-4000lt 200-300mt/min

Winch dyeing machine

For light weight quality fabric, this winch dyeing machine is used.

Machine name Manufacture No. Of machine Capacity Used for Form of material Dye liquor Heating system Heating medium Time taken

winch dyeing Shakti 8 100kg washing of printed fabric rope form 150-200lt direct steam 12-14hr.

Jigger :This machine is used for dyeing the cotton fabric. Fabric is used in open width form in this machine. In this, cloth moves from one roller (let-off roller) to another roller (take-up roller) through trough or liquor. After one complete turn, the movement of fabric get reversed i.e. Let-off becomes take-up and take-up becomes let-off roller automatically thus the required number of turns are given to the fabric. Thus in this machine, liquor is stationary and fabric moves.

Machine name Manufacture No. Of jigger No. Of worker Capacity Heating system Speed of fabric MLR

Jigger(old) Shakti 6(2 for sample) 1 for 1 machine 4-250kg indirect to direct 40-45mt/min 1:2,1:4

Diameter of roller Width of roller Time for 1 batch Production

250mm 2000mm 10-12hr(reactive) 2000m/day per machine

Hydraulic jigger :It is almost same as old jigger, but only change is that it is fully automatic, microprocessor control and its capacity is high.

Machine name Manufacture No. Of machine Capacity Trough capacity Max. Temp. Dyeing temp. Heating system

Hydraulic jigger Shakti 1 350kg 2000lt 100c 60-70c direct or indirect

Steps of dyeing in jigger

S.no. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Step Loading Add resist salt Dyeing Salt addition10% Dyeing Salt addition30% Dyeing Salt addition60% Fixation(soda ash) Overflow wash temp.(0c) 50 50 50 60 60 60 60 60 70-80 R.T. turns 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 4 4
1

11. 12. 13.

Soaping Hot wash Cold wash

80 50 R.T

4 2 2

Continuous dyeing range:Two m/cs constitutes the whole continuous dyeing range. A. pad dry B. pad steam

Pad dry:o o o o o

M/c make Mangle make Thread length Man power required Speed

Benninger (Germany) Kusters 140 mts. 1 operator+1helper 60 mts./ min

Brief description of the machine

Operation of the machine can divided into following sections 1. Feeding
o o o

Fabric is fed from batch Fabric is guided through rollers, tensioners and scray to the padding zone. Presence of scray helps to feed the fabric uninterruptedly during the change of the batch.

2. Padding

Fabric is padded with dye liquor in the kusters mangle present in this machine

Capacity of the trough 60 liters Pneumatic and oil pressure is applied in the squeeze roller to get the uniform expression through out the width of the fabric Padding pressure is

Left 1.6

Middle 1.8

Right 1.6

Temperature of the liquor

room temperature

Expression or pick up depends on the type of fabric.

3. Airing
o

Airing zone is there before the entry of fabric into IR drying unit to ensure proper migration of dye particles inside the fibre matrix.

4. Infra red drying

o

Air and propane gas are injected at very low pressure and these mixtures are heat generated from this ignition heats up the ceramic plate, which becomes red hot and generates IR wave. There are two IR drying columns, each consist of a set of three ceramic plates in between which the fabric is passed. IR drying plates the migration of dye on fabric it dry up the fabric uniformly 30-40% of moisture is removed by infrared drying

o o

5. Hot flue drying

o o

It is divided into two chambers Fabric is passed over a no. Of rollers arranged at two different heights and is dried by hot air circulated by four blower fans (2 at the bottom & 2 at the top), extra air is exhausted from the top. Air is heated by passing over oils containing hot oil (therminol 55, coming from the thermo pack) Temp. of the first chamber - 110 C, Second chamber - 120 C First chamber Second chamber
1

o o

Fan speed

Hot air fan Exhaust fan Exhaust air

20% 35% 85%

30% 25% 85%

6. Cooling cylinders After drying the fabric it is cooled by passing it over two cooling cylinders (cooled by passing chilled water). This cooling is done to minimize the selvedge to selvedge variation. Recipe for vat dyeing Ingredients Vat dye Setamol ws Primasol amk Invadine lun Albatex ffc Purpose Dye Dispersing agent Antimigrating agent Deaerator Levelling agent Conc. (in gpl) X 1 5-10 1 0.1

Recipe for reactive dyeing Ingredients Reactive dye Ciba flow pad Primasol amk Resist salt Setamol ws Albatex ffc Purpose Dye Deaerator Antimigrating agent Mild oxiding agent Dispersing agent Levelling agent Conc. (in gpl) X 2 5-10 2 1 (only above 40 gpl) 0.1

Defects during pad dry system

o o o o o o o

Dropping mainly in hot flue dryer thus check suction system properly. Crease marks takes place in hot flue dryer and in ir dryer. Tailing effect Dark to light shade Colour spots Colour spurs Power failure

pad steam

M/c make Benninger (Germany) Thread length 360 mts Man power required two operators and one helper Average operational speed 50-60 mts/min. Purpose of the machine o In this machine color (reactive or vat) color is developed on the fabric after it is being pigmented in the pad-dry machine. o This machine can also be used as washing machine, when the chemical input in the machine is cut off and steamer is also kept out of operation.

Brief description about the machine

Feed zone Feed material is the output of the pad-dry machine in case of development of the dyed fabric. Fabric is guided from the guide rollers, tensioners and scray to the padding section. Presence of scray at the feed helps in uninterrupted feeding of material at the feed section. Fabric tension during is controlled automatically.

Padding zone

Name :- booster padding mangle In this zone fabric is padded with developing chemicals Expression of the mangle :- 90-100% Capacity of the trough :- 60 lts. Padding chemical temp :-. Room temp

.Developing zone:Chemical feed for the reactive development

Ingredient Glauber salt Soda ash NaOH (48 be) Sitamol ws

Purpose Exhausting agent Fixation agent Solubilising agent Dispersing agent

Conc. (in gpl) 250 20 9 1 (only for torquoise shade)

Chemical feed for the vat development Speed 50-60m/min Ingredient Hydro sulphite NaOH (48 be) Glauber salt Sodium nitrite Albatex or Mother dye liquor Purpose Reducing agent Solubilising agent Exhausting agent Mild oxidising agent Levelling agent Conc. (in gpl) 31 33 15-20 5 (for blue dyes) 2 70-20

Chemical feed for the vat development(for dark shade) Speed 50-60m/min Ingredient Hydro sulphite NaOH (48 Be) Glauber salt Sodium nitrite Albatex or Mother dye liquor Purpose Reducing agent Solubilising agent Exhausting agent Mild oxidising agent Levelling agent Conc. (in gpl) 45 50 10-15 5 (for blue dyes) 0 70-20

Chemical feed for the reactive stripping

Speed 20-30m/min Ingredient Hydro sulphite NaOH (48 be) Sequestering Dispersing Purpose Reducing agent Solubilising agent Sequestering agent Dispersing agent Conc. (in gpl) 40 50 2 1

Steaming zone o In this zone reaction of the developing chemical with the dye takes place. o Thread length (in the steamer) 50mts. o Steam supply (dry steam) 112 C o Steam mix temp. (saturated) 90 C o Steamer inside temp. 99 C o Roof heating 112 C

Washing zone For reactive dyes

Removal of the unfixed, partially deposited and hydrolysed dyes.

For vat dyes

Removal of the unfixed, partially deposited and hydrolysed dyes. Soaping causes the aggregation of dye molecules inside the fibres after which final shade is achieved.

Washing of fabric dyed with reactive dye

Chamber & sub-chamber no

Purpose

Chemicals

Temp. (in c) 40 40 60 95 95

15 16 17.1 17.2 18

Cold wash Cold wash Neutralisation Hot wash Soaping

Acetic acid Cibacel ds 1gpl Cibacron rsk 0.5gpl Acetic acid -

19.1 19.2 20 21.1 21.2

Soaping Soaping Hot wash Neutralisation Washing

95 95 95 60 60

Washing of fabric dyed with vat dye

Chamber & sub-chamber no.

Purpose

Chemicals

Temp. (in c) 40 40 60 60 95

15 16 17.1 17.2 18

Cold wash Cold wash Oxidation Oxidation Soaping

Resist salt Resist salt Cibacel ds 1gpl Cibacron rski o.5gpl Acetic acid -

19.1 19.2 20 21.1 21.2

Soaping Soaping Hot wash Neutralisation Hot wash

95 95 95 60 60

Cooling zone

o o

No. of cooling cylinders two Temp. of cooling water room temp

Drying zone

Type of drying vertical cylinder drying range No. Of drying cylinders 10+10 Dimensions of cylinders 32 * 72 Pressure of steam in the cylinder 50 lbs/in sq Steam consumption 60 kg/hr/cylinder

Checking points :

Level of the chemical liquor inside the kuster mangle is regularly checked. Conc. of NaOH (during development of reactive dyes) is checked. Conc. of hydrosulphite (during development of vat dyes) is checked.

Procedure Take 10 ml of hydros solution to be tested. To it add 10 ml of formaldehyde solution. Make it to 250 ml. In the volumetric flask with distilled water. Take 25 ml> of the above prepared solution end point of titration is brick red color Hydros (gpl) = reading of burette * 4.35

Cold pad batch dyeing range

Specifications:

Machine make Threading length Average operational speed Production Name of padding machine

Benninger 18 mts 60 mts/min. 60,000 mts./24 hrs. Kusters mangle

Brief description of m/c Feed zone

Form of feeding batch Pre cooling-there is a cooling cylinder within which chilled water from chilling plant cools the surface of the cylinder and hence the fabric. Since the process should be carried out in cold condition, a precooling arrangement of the fabric gives uniform results

Padding zone 1. Name of the padding mangle 2. Temp. of liquor 3. Flow ratio of color and silicate 4. Liquor capacity of trough Recipe Reactive dye liquor Dye Urea Albatex ffc Sirriy sai Alkali solution NaOH Sodium silicate Padding pressure (in bars) Left 1.4 Middle 1.5 Right 1.4 (38 Be) 20 ml/lt x gpl 100 gpl 0.1 gpl 0.3 gpl kusters mangle 20-25 c 4 :1 22 litres

Special features in the mangle

1. A jacket surrounds the trough of the mangle, which contains cold water to cool the liquor in the trough. 2. To get uniform pressure throughout the width of the mangle, there is a oil and pneumatic pressure arrangement. 3. The trough can be moved down automatically during washing 4. A liquor level sensor is present. 5. A liquor temperature sensor is also present.

Delivery zone
1. Form of delivery batch 2. Drive batch is positively driven by motor, pressing roller is driven in contact with that. 3. Intermittent pressing of the pressing roller. 4. Incorporation of PEsheet with in layers to get rid off stitch marks. 5. The batch fabric is kept in rotating conditions for 16 hrs and then go to the soaper.

Soaper
It is used for washing the fabric with soap and hot water, after dyeing and after printing, to remove superficial dyes from fabric. After cold pad batch , hold for 16 hrs and then use soaper. In soaper, counter current water flows for washing the fabric.
o o o o o o o

Manufacturer No. of machine Working width Threading length Washing system Mangle pressure No. Of worker

Beninger 1 1.8m 240m counter current flow 2bar 3

Machine must always be washed and cleaned immediately after completion of one shade Compartment W12 W13 W14 W15 W16 W17 Temperature 0C 60 95 95 95 60 50 Function Cold wash Hot wash Soap Hot wash Cold wash + acetic acid(neutralisation) Cold wash

Then the fabric go to the vertical drying cylinders for drying in which there is 22 cylinders out of which there are 20 hot cylinders and 2 chilled cylinders

5.Printing
Printing department can be divided into following sections
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Printing studio. Print color kitchen. Printing section. Curing and steaming section. Washing zone.

Printing studio:Objective:- the main objective of the print studio is to transfer the design obtained from the buyer on to a perforated screen, so that the design become print able. Tracers in this department adjusts the repeat size of the design to a factor of 64.2 cms (the circumference of the print roller) this enables a perfect repetition of the design during printing. The tracers also make any alteration in the design as may be demanded by the party. The screen rollers once prepared are preserved for future use.

Flow charts:
Flow chart for making the design as bld paper 1. Receiving of order Order is received in the form of a

Swatch Cad paper Hand made by artist Garment cutting

It also contains sample no, production no, buyers name, amount of production and delivery date. 1.Tracing the design:-the design samples comes to tracer who first makes the repeat size of the design. The repeat size must be a factor of 64.02 cms which is the circumference of the screen roller. Once the repeat size is adjusted the teacer finds number of colour present in the design. then he traces each part of the design of different color on different paper called tracing film (polyester paper) by fine nib with black ink. 2. Enlarging of repeat size:- each repeat unit of different color is enlarged on photo sensitive paper by using violet light. Time taken in this process is 60-90 secs. 3. Developing:- the enlarged sheet is then developed in ammonia solution for 30-60 sec. Design positive is produced on the photosensitive paper on which design part changes to black colour. Hence the bld (bright light developed). Flow chart for making of screen rollers. 1. Rounding off: round screen made of nickel alloy (available from market) is rounded off by placing it in a chamber at 180*c for 45min. 2. Coating:-ni- screen rollers are coated by photo emulsion & centiliser mixture. 3. Climetising:- here the chemical coating over the screen roller is dried by hot air at 45c for 20-25 mins. 4. Exposing:- coated Ni screen roller is mounted on a rubber which is inflated with air. Bld negative is wrapped at one side (say lhs) of the roller other parts are covered by paper & U.V. Light is projected on it for 3-4 mins. Same operation is done for the total width of the screen roller. The design portion (black) of the negative prevents the U.V. Light to go through it. So the photo emulsion under it remains soft U.V.ray falls on the other portion of the roller & the photo emulsion over there gets hardened by chemical reaction.

4. Washing:- the roller is then washed by water in a water bath for 10 mins. Here unreacted soft part of photo emulsion is washed off by a piece of sponge. now the design portion which was turned to black on bld paper,becomes opaque on the screen roller, then the roller is dried. 5. Checking:- the roller is then thoroughly checked. The pores of the design portion are properly opened by water. Undesirable pores are also covered by colour. Curing:- chemicals on the screen roller are cured in the curing m/c by hot air at 180c for 2 hrs. 7. Rechecking:- rechecking & reqd. Manipulation of the screen roller is done.
6.

8. Preparation of rfp roll:- finally two aluminium rings are attached at both edges of the roller with araldite. The roller is now ready for printing.

Some special data related to screen roller formation.

No. of holes per inch can can be 60,70,80,100 & 125 for different variety screen with higher no. Of holes per inch is used for finer quality design & screen with lower no. Of holes per inch is used for blotch (wider and broad type ) design. Length of the screen roller is 1.75 mts. A screen roller can print up to 50000 mts. One kg. Of photo emulsion in mixed with 50ml. Of centiliser which can be coated on 4 screen rollers.

Design Department
In this design department , sample designs are developed on the computer with matching of design as well as their creativity. They have used designing software and print out the design on paper. If the design is very fine and complicated then it is prepared on paper by hand with help of experts. Machine name Manufacture Used for Paper used hp design jet 500 hp paper print mtltifilm,

o o o o

Transparent clear film

o o

Speed No. Of colour

6inch/min 4

Screen exposing techniques

o Computerised screen exposing o Manual screen exposing

Computerised screen exposing

In this technique, coated nickel screen is fixed on machine and program of the design is entered. Automatically design is drawn on the screen or engraved on screen as well as the exposing of the screen takes place by U.V.. Light. No. Of machine Machine name Manufacture Ink used Length of machine No. Of cycle of engraving No. Of cycle of exposing Total time taken 1 luscher engraving & exposing luscher wax black ink 120inch 1 4 15 min

Manual screen exposing

Exposing time for 1 repeat Exposing time for full screen Screen length 4-5min 40-50min 50-60inch

Sample Printing machine

(Baby Printing machine)
o o o o o o o

Machine name No. Of machine Manufacture Speed No. Of colour used Printing width Dyes taken

Digital printing machine 1 Nimaki textile jet Txz-1600 10m/hr 8 62inch pigment, reactive

Print colour kitchen As the name suggest this section of printing of printing department is concerned with print paste preparation, which is made readily available for printing. Two different methods for print paste preparation, one for pigment and other for discharge printing.

For discharge print (in general) Chemical Safolite Soda ash Pine oil Glycerine Hindustan gum Water Total Quantity ( in %) 20 7 2 2 6 63 100

For colour discharge, we use the same recipe but with the addition of colour (nondischargeable).

Preparation of Hindustan gum 50kg of Hindustan gum powder is mixed with 100kg of water & fast stirring is done for 10-12 min. Then it is taken in a tumbler and slow stirring is done for 10-12 hrs. From this paste 6% is added to the main stock paste. Preparation of the printing paste All the chemicals of stock paste are mixed thoroughly in the PVC container by means of a motor driven stirrer for 1 to1.5 hrs again the vat colour as per the shade, is dissolved in water, stirred well and mixed with the stock paste. This mixture is stirred for 1015 min. This paste is ready to be used for printing.

For pigment print Recipe for stock paste Chemical Binder 4400 Thickener nca Liquor ammonia Fixer Water Total Quantity (in%) 10-12 3-3.5 1 2 Rest 100

For reactive print Recipe for stock paste Chemical Reactive dye Urea Resist salt Sodium bicarbonate Sodium alginate Water Total Quantity (in%) X% 15-20% 2.5-3% 4% 4-5% Rest 100%

Preparation of printing paste of pigment The ingredients are taken in a stirring tank of 800kg capacity and stirred for 35min. This mixture is transferred to any of the over head chamber of 2400kg capacity. Required amount of pigment is taken, as per shade requirement. In PVC container and is mixed with the stock paste in the tank and stirred for 10min. This paste is ready to be used for printing.

Printing section

Printing machine

Name of m/c Machine make No. of machine Total no. of printing rollers No. of chamber in drying zone No. of dryer fans No. of exhaust fans No. of radiators Temp. of drying chambers Avg speed of m/c Min. Speed of m/c Max. Speed of m/c Length of machine Width of machine Type of blanket Length of blanket Width of blanket Thickness of blanket Type of squeezee

Rotary screen printing m/c Laxmi 2 12 5 10 3 5 1090C, 1220C, 1370C, 1500C, 1380C 20-40m/min 10-12m/min 40-50m/ min 25.84m 2.30m rubber blanket 16m 64inch 1mm magnetic squeezee

Brief description of the m/c

Feed zone

Fabric passes over batch roll through guide rollers, there are two brass rollers followed two suction to remove the floating fibres and dust on fabric surface Printing zone There is an endless rotating rubber conveyer in this zone. At first fabric is pasted with the rubber conveyer by the pressure roller with the help of PVA then the fabric comes under the printing roller through which the print paste is applied the pressure of the printing roller can be adjusted by changing rod inside it. A single colour is applied by one printing roller generally darker colour containing rollers are arranged gradually from back to front. Different coloured print pastes are applied by different square shaped hollow and perforated rods (squeeze) by individual pumps. The rubber conveyer is cleaned by water and doctor blade under the machine. length of the fabric in this zone is 23 feets. fabric after printing zone enter drying zone. Drying zone There are five chambers in this zone containing five radiators. Hot oil is circulated through the radiators and the blowers circulate the hot air. For pigment printing drying temp. is around 160 deg and for discharge printing it is around 140deg.generally the temp. of first two chambers is kept lower than the subsequent chambers. Fabric after drying goes to delivery zone. Delivery zone Fabric coming from drying zone passes through guide rollers and is lapper into the trolley.

Factors to be checked at the time of printing :The design printed on the fabric coming out from the printing bed is checked carefully. Distortion of the design occurs mainly due to chocking of the printing rollers or due to the floating fibers attached with the printing rollers. Sponge wetted with water to avoid chocking is used to wash printing rollers Again a dummy roller is fitted at the beginning of the printing bed the surface of which is coated by gum. When fabric passes through the surface of this roller it arrests the floating fibres attached to the fabric For a broad design it is checked whether the fabric coming out from the delivery zone is properly dried or not. Temperature of the drying chambers are increased if necessary.

The level of the color in the PVC container is checked. It is also checked whether colors are coming out from the squeeze properly. The cleaning system of the rubber conveyer under the printing bed and the PVC application to it is also checked.

Curing & steaming section

Continuous ager (steaming m/c.)

Name of the m/c Maker name Thread length Speed

continous ager m/c gayatri m/c 200 m 15 m/min (normal) 6-8 m/min (min.) 50 m/min (max.)

Drying system Steaming time Temperature of m/c

steaming 8-2 min. 101 c for discharge 150-180 c for pigment

Pressure of steam at feed Roof heating system

18-20 kg./cm sq by hot oil

Brief description of the m/c

The m/c contains 26 guide rollers each at the top & at the bottom, both feed and delivery takes place from the front side of the m/c. Fabric simply passes through the series of guide rollers during the process. Both direct & indirect system of heating are in this m/c. Water is heated by hot oil pipes located below the m/c, to generate indirect steam, another purpose of steam is to saturate the direct steam to be applied on the fabric. The roof of the m/c is heated to about 130 - 140 c to avoid steam condensation of the steam & hence dropping on the fabric. Direct steam is also applied at the feed and delivery to avoid droppings. Discharging agent present in the printing paste forms a fume inside the m/c with the help of saturated steam, which actually develops the color on the fabric surface.

Special features :
Both curing (for pigment) & steaming (for discharge) can be carried out in this m/c for curing there are 2 radiators & 2 blowers. o Pre steaming arrangement is here to avoid dropping in the fabric. o Both feed & delivery are on same side of the m/c
o

Defects :

Tearing of the fabric inside the m/c. Dropping of water droplets on the fabric. This occurs if roof temp. Is inadequate or steam contains water molecules. Insufficient development. This occurs amount of safolite in the print paste is low, level of water in tank is low or amount of steam is sufficient.

LOOP AGER

Name of the m/c Machine make Engineers pvt. Ltd. Machine speed

loop ager Swastik textile 15 m/min(normal) 1-2 m/min (min.) 30 m/min (max.)

Steaming time Temp. with in the m/c discharge

6-15 min. 101 c for steam

Roof heating system No. of exhaust 2 No. of loops formed inside the m/c 30

Brief description of the m/c

In this m/c the feed and delivery is located on different sides of the m/c. Fabric loop is formed at the feed by a loop former situated at the feed. The fabric inside the m/c is moved by means of guide bars. Since the fabric is in loop from so the length of the fabric and hence steaming time is more roof is steam heated to avoid droppings. Water tanks are there at the right hand side of the
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m/c water is heated by hot oil to produce steam. Discharging agent present in the print paste forms a fume inside the m/c with help of saturated steam, which actually develops the color on the fabric surface channels of exhaust system are located inside the m/c to avoid droplets loop length and speed of the m/c is adjusted according to the nature of the fabric and the nature of design.

Special features of the m/c :

o o

As the fabric passes inside the m/c in loop form, more steaming time is available. Loop length inside the m/c can be varied so developing time can also be varied according to the nature of the fabric and nature of design.

Defects :
Tearing of the fabric inside the m/c. Dropping of water droplets on the fabric. This occurs if roof temp. Is not proper, steam contains water particles. o Insufficient developing. This occurs if amount of safolite in the printing paste is low, level of water in tank is low or amount of steam is sufficient. o Discharging of the base color at undesirable places. This occurs due to the following causes :
o o

1. Safolite causes fumes of sulphur dioxide, which mixed with the steam and forms fumes of sulphurous and sulphuric acid. These fumes damage the base color and also the cellulose. 2. If two neighboring loops touch each other side and if discharging agent of one loop discharges the base solor of neighboring loops at undesirable places, patchy marks appear in the fabric causing damage.

Curing machine (Continous type)

Name of the m/c Machine make Thread length

Curing m/c or Polymeriser Gayatri m/c products 140 mts.

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Speed of m/c

6-8 m/min (min) 20-50 m/min (max.)

Drying system Steaming system Temp. with in the m/c No. of blower No. of exhaust No. of radiators

hot air 6-10 min. 150-180 c 4 (2 at feed & 2 at delivery side) 3 2 (1 at feed &1 at delivery side)

Brief description of the m/c :

The delivery and feed are located on opposed side of the m/c. Set of guide rollers are there at the top as well as at the bottom of which top rollers are driven by chain and gear. Fabric simply passes through these guide rollers, two radiators are there one at the feed & the other at the delivery through which hot oil is circulated two blowers are provided behind each radiator, which blows hot air to the fabric and curing is done by this hot air exhaust systems open from time to maintain proper temperature inside the m/c speed of the m/c is adjusted according to the nature of the fabric and the nature of the print pattern. Defects :
o o

The major defects of this m/c is tearing of the fabric inside the m/c Sometimes fabric is folded at the selvedges leading to improper curing.

Curing machine (loop type)

Name of the m/c Makers name Thread length Speed of the m/c

curing m/c Swastik Textile Engineers Pvt. Ltd. 150 m 15 m/min (normal) 30 m/min (high)

Drying system hot oil Curing time 6-15 min. Temp. In the m/c 150-180 c No. Of exhaust 1 No. Of loops formed 30

Brief description of the machine

In this machine the feed and delivery is located on different sides of the machine fabric loop is formed at the feed by a loop former situated at the feed. The fabric inside the machine is moved by means of guide bar. Since the fabric is in loop form so the length of fabric and hence curing time is more loop length and speed of the machine is adjusted according to the nature of the fabric and the nature of the design.

Special feature of the machine

As the fabric passed inside the machine in loop form, more curing time is available Loop inside the machine can be varied so curing time can also be varied according to the nature of the fabric and the nature of the design.

Defects

Tearing of the fabric inside the machine Immature curing of the fabric Sometimes fabric is folded at the selvedges leading to improper curing in that portion of the fabric.

Washing zone
Printed fabric is washed either in the continuous washing range or open width print washer. Georgette or moscrepe fabric are washed in the width in the winch machine since the wet strength of these are very low.

Open width print washer

Name of m/c Machine maker Length of washing zone Length of drying zone No. Of washing chamber

Open width print washer SM Energy Teknik & Electronic ltd. 45 ft 18 ft 6(chemical is applied at third chamber)

No. Of drying cylinders Speed of m/c

12 40-80 mts./min.

Brief description of the machine

Feed the fabric is feed into the machine through guide rollers from trolley or palette. o First chamber fabric is passed over a special type of perforated roller and cold water jet is sprayed on the fabric. o Second chamber fabric is passed over a wire mesh in the form of an extended pleated form. Water jet is applied on the fabric from top. This helps to remove impurities from the fabric.
o

6. Finishing Department
This department takes fabric from printing and dyeing department. Stenter machine is commonly used in this department, main use of this m/c is to develop the feel of fabric and to give the final touch. In discharge printing this m/c is used to develop the printed portion.

Stenter:Specification:-

Machine name Manufacturer Speed : For light weight fabric heavy weight fabric Pressure

Stenter Smecon

69 m/min 20m/min 1.5 bar in side 1.6 bar in centre

Drying tome Blown fans

30 sec 10

Exhaust fans No. Of radiators Length of chamber Process type Form of feeding

3 5 3m continuous open width form

Temp.(in 0C) of chambers : 1st 175 2nd 192 3rd 182 4th 193 5th 190 6th 194

Sanforiser The main work of this m/c is to control the shrinkage of fabric.. Specification: Manufacturer Process type Speed Heating arrangement Form of feeding Ramson continuous 50 m/min direct steam supply open width form

Process

Fabric is feeded to the m/c from feeding end and it passes through a rubber blanket running in contact with hot shoe. Then it enters over a blanket running over a metal drum. Various parameters of m/c setting are given below: (a) main steam pressure (b) drum rubber belt (c) palmer (d)speed of m/c 6kg/cm2 2.5kg/cm2 2kg/cm2 50m/min

Fabric is collected in trolley or batch after passing through m/c.

Non confirmity product 1. Shade is not matched 2. Shrinkage is not within limits 3. Different types of stains in fabric 4. Skew, bowing is observed in fabric 5. Rubber mark, of crease is observed in fabric 6. Centre-selvedge variation is observed

Preventive remedies:
1. Shade is not matched. If difference is less ,then it is carried out in stenter by pigment topping. If difference is higher and also the quality of material is high then it is matched in dyeing department 2. Shrinkage is not within limit In weft direction if shrinkage is greater than 3% then it is re-stretched and set the width to keep shrinkage within limit. In warp direction if the shrinkage is greater than 3% then it is de-sanforised to keep the shrinkage within limits.

In case if shrinkage is too small that is less than 1% than it is re-sanforised to increase the shrinkage but within 3% limit 3. Different types of stains in fabric After several experiment, the chemical or route is decided by the concerned person in the lab. The stain is removed from the fabric either in jig or by gunning. If stain is not removed then fabric is converted in black shade. 4. Skew, bowing is observed in fabric The fabric is re-stentered through bianco where skew-bowing is corrected. . 5. Rubber mark, o-o crease is observed in fabric During power failure in sanforiser rubber mark and o-o crease is occuered. This fabric is re-stentered.

7.Folding department
In this department, fabric is checked. If they find any big fault they send it in rejection department. If the fault is not so big and it is covered in reprocessing they send it for re-process. If the fabric is fresh they send this fabric in excise department for dispatch. They use 4 point system for inspection. Machines used in folding department Fabric inspection table:No. of tables No. of checkers Specifications:Dimensions Fabric form Production Illumination 8.1.2 Fabric inspection machine:4

7 2 (one on each side)

96*48 folded form 7000mts. / shift.(depend on workers) 2 tube lights right above the table

Make Number of machines Number of operators

Trueshape 7 2 (1 checker + 1 helper)

Specifications:Speed Angle of table Fabric width Illuminations Other accessories variable (0 - 100 mts / min.) 60 71 (max) top and bottom lightening (6 tubes each) length metering scale (automatic) Width measuring scale Forward and reversing mechanism Production 5000 mts. /8 hours

Differentiation of defects:Defects found in fabric is differentiated according to the colour of stickerDefect 1 to 3 inch 3 to 6 inch 6 to 9 inch 9 to 12 inch Q1 Q2 poi 1 2 3 4 colour yellow sticker green sticker orange sticker pink sticker

40 points/100yard2 i.e. Accepted. 40-55 points/100yard2

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Q3 Q4

short piece i.e. 3-10mt. Length fabric roll rejected.

8.Lab section
Instrument used in the lab
Dyeing lab Instrument make Model Paramount Digi light Data color Ahiba infra red dyeing m/c International Mathis Mathis Mathis Mathis Mathis Paramount Ifb Ifb Ifb Jindal scientific ind. Purpose Digitally light fastness tester Exhaust dyeing

Padding m/c Mathis infra red dryer Chemical pad, steam, washing range Curing & steaming m/c Distilled water plant Printing m/c Paramount digi wash Maxidry 4550 Supermol Senator Jindal instruments -

Padding (for PDPS) Drying (for PDPS) Padding,steaming, washing (for PDPS) Curing & steaming For distilled water Sample printing Exhaust dyeing, shrinking checking Tumble dryer Washing m/c Washing m/c Oven Desiccators
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Countron Jindal

7100-02 Muffle furnace

pH indicator Drying

Physical lab Instrument make Paramount Toshniwal Paramount Paramount Paramount Paramount Paramount Paramount Paramount Paramount Grateg Macbeth Paramount Paramount Paramount Presto precision standard Paraount Paramount Model Astmd 1424 Crease recovery tester Beesley balance Digital pilling tester Digi tra Cutter Polarising projection microscope Martindale abrasion tester Digi crock Spectralight 111 Digi strength Drape meter Digital incubator Sublimation tester Twist tester Digi wrap Purpose Tearing strength tester Digital thermometer Crease recovery Direct yarn count Pilling epi & ppi Cutting Yarn dia. Abrasion testing Rubbing testing Color matching cabinet Seam, lea and tensile tester Draping coefficient Drying Sublimation fastness Tpi Reeling

Laboratory dyeing
A. Pad dry pad system 1. Vat dyeing

Padding Mangle pressure:Speed :2 bar 1.8 mts./min.

Color trough recipe

Drying Infra red drying:Speed:2 mts/min.

Pad steam washer Speed:2 mts/min.

Chemical trough recipe Chemical Hydrose Naoh (48be) Common salt Sodium nitrite (for blue rsns) Albatex or (only for dark shade) Mother liquor Pick up Washing chamber Purpose Vatting agent Solubilising agent Exhausting agent Oxidising agent Levelling agent Quantity(in gpl) 31 33 10 5 2 70 65% Pressure ( c) First Second Third Cold water Resist salt Soap 30 90 95 (in bar) 2 2 2

Ingredients

Tempreture

Fourth Fifth

Hot water Acetic acid

95 30

2 4

2. Reactive dyeing Padding Speed Pressure 2mts/min 2 bar

Color trough recipe Chemicals Primasol amk Ciba flow pad Resist salt Pick up Purpose Anti migrating agent De aerating agent Mild oxidising agent Quantity (in gpl) 5/10/15 2 2 60%

Drying Infrared dryer Speed:2 mts./min.

Pad steam washer Speed :2 mts./min.

Chemical trough recipe Chemical NaOH (48be) Soda ash Common salt Purpose Fixation agent Fixation agent Exhausting agent Quantity (in gpl) 9 20 250
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Dekol fbsn Mother liquor (only for bulk dyeing Pick up

Chelating agent 70

2 65%

Washing chamber

Ingredient

Temperature (c) 30 70 95 95 30

Quantity (in gpl) 2 2 2 2 4

First Second Third Fourth Fifth

Acetic acid Water Soap Water Acetic acid

B. Cold pad batch dyeing

Reactive dye
Padding Mangle pressure:- 2 bar Speed:1.8 mts./min.

Color trough recipe Color :Ciba flow pad:Urea:x gpl 2 gpl 100 gpl

Chemical solution:- 1/5 of total volume Chemical solution Sodium silicate (grade 1):Caustic lye(38be) :Storage time :425 gpl 20 ml/l 16 hours

It is followed by cold wash (30-40C) --- soaping at 90C hot wash (95C) rinse . It is observed that whether the fabric inside the drying zone is moved properly without folding. Measures to be taken before starting the machine Speed of the machine is set according to the nature of the design. For a design of less number of colors the speed is set at higher side. But for a very fine design the speed is lowered. Pressure of the pressure roller is adjusted according to the nature of the fabric and nature of design. Action of the brush rollers and the suction system is checked. PVA roller is cleaned properly. All the motors pumping the liquids (water, colors) are checked. Temperature of the drying chambers are adjusted properly according to the requirement Mathis printing machine Purpose :- for testing the new printing colors Speed :6-8 mts./min.

Magnetic intensity :- 0-10 flux To run 1. Apply gum on the table surface 2. Spread the fabric sample on the surface 3. Place designed frame on the surface 4. Switch on the main switch and magnet 5. Set magnet intensity and speed 6. Bring the iron bar at the start position 7. Put the printing paste at the start position 8. Set the direction of movement of bar 9. Press turn button to start printing. To stop 1. Switch off the magnet and transporter 2. Remove the frame and iron bar 3. Remove the fabric sample gently 4. Switch off the main switch

Testing carried out in the lab

Water testing
Following tests are performed on water.
o

ppm (parts per million)

Procedure 1. Take 50ml. Of water (to be tested) in a beaker. 2. Titrate it against solochrome black solution until color of water changes to blue. 3. Now add two three drops of ammonia buffer. 4. Then titrate it against EDTA solution until the color of solution turns white.

Test for core pH

Procedure 1. 250 ml of distilled water (of ph 6.5-6.6) is taken in a beaker. 2. It is boiled for 10 min. 3. Now add 10gm of fabric to be tested, cut in smaller pieces. 4. Again boil for 10 min. 5. Cool down the solution to the room temp. 6. Check pH of water using electronic pH meter.

Calculation of count
1. Using the Bessley balance Procedure:1. Cut the fabric piece in both warp and weft direction according to the size of template. 2. Put the rider on left side of the Bessley balance. 3. Remove the threads from the fabric and put in the right side of balance to balance the weight of rider. 4. No of threads required to balance the rider weight gives directly the count of yarn used in the warp and weft direction.

2. Without using Bessley balance

Procedure:1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Cut the fabric sample of any size. Remove at least 10 threads from the sample (all of equal size) Measure the length of the thread after removing the crimp. Weigh all the threads. Use the following formula:

Count

no. of threads*thread length *0.00535 Weight of all threads