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Despite limits on consumer awareness and motivation, it is in the textile industrys interest to adopt practices to reduce the use of water, energy, and chemicals, especially in dyeing and finishing. Cotton Incorporated recently surveyed representatives of global mills, brands, and retailers about their motivations for adopting sustainable cotton technologies and practices. About two-thirds of these companies are currently implementing sustainable practices or technologies (61%) and/or working with supply chain partners that are implementing them (66%). When asked to identify the main reason for their interest in sustainability, the most common response was concern for the environment42% said that it was better for the environment. Another 14% cited supply chain customer demand, and 11% said it would provide a competitive advantage; 16% said they were still exploring the potential benefits. During the winter of 200809, Cotton Incorporated conducted in-depth interviews with more than 40 global cotton textile processing companies that account for over 75% of global textile processing. These companies manufacture a wide range of woven, knit, denim, and yarn products and have implemented changes in their processes, dyes and chemicals, equipment, and control systems that significantly reduce requirements for water, energy, and chemicals. In this issue, we highlight two proven commercial technologies that survey respondents identified as having a potentially high impact on WEC reduction: (1) high-fixation reactive dyeing with reduced salt and (2) low-liquor-ratio jet dyeing machines.
Reactive dyes contain a reactive group that forms a chemical bond with cotton fiber under alkaline conditions. Reactive dyes give bright, fast colors, and account for over 70% of the dyes used for cotton. However, large quantities of salt are needed to cause the dye to move from the dye bath to the fiber, and the exhaustion and fixation rates for reactive dyes (the percentage of the dye that moves from the dye bath onto the fiber and the percentage that bonds permanently to the fiber) are relatively low. For conventional reactive dyes, the fixation rate is often less than 80%, resulting in waste of dye, and removing the unfixed dye requires extensive rinsing and washing with heated water.
2010 Cotton Incorporated. www.cottoninc.com INFO: Global Product Supply Chain 919.678.2262
COTTON INCORPORATED
These machines usually use low-friction Teflon internal coatings and advanced spray systems to speed rinsing. Ultra low liquor ratio jet dyeing machines operate at a liquor ratio of less than 6:1 and almost always depend on forced airflow to convey the fabric through the machine. LLR jet dyeing is widely used in high volume for piecedyed knits, as well as some wovens, depending on fabric weight. Compared with conventional machines, LLR machines usually enable reduced cycle times and increased productivity, while requiring less than half as much water. Some plants achieve four batches in 24 hours (depending on depth of shade) and average water consumption of less than 50 liters per kilogram of knit fabric. Plants using machines with the newest airflow technology report processing with liquor ratios of less than 4:1. One factor limiting implementation is the high cost of the new machines, which favors use at new facilities rather than as replacements for older machines. Low-liquor-ratio jet dyeing machines
Applicability Potential WEC Reduction Knits & wovens Water: high Energy: high Chemicals: moderate $200 K $500 K, 2 to 5 years
2010 Cotton Incorporated. www.cottoninc.com INFO: Global Product Supply Chain 919.678.2262
COTTON INCORPORATED