You need to look at ‘landscaping’ with an eye towards supplementing your food

allowance purchase permits, coming soon under Codex/Food Control.

First: Do not plant dwarfed or semi-dwarfed trees. Even lazy government codex
enforcers will not believe a dwarfed fruit tree is landscaping and not a food
supplement tree.

Dwarfed or semi-dwarfed fruit trees are what most people are familiar with today.
You will need to plant standard fruit trees.

Because credit card companies and banks are turning their records of your
purchases over to the federal government, you will want to make your purchases
now, rather than later, when every purchase will be scrutinized.

Let’s begin with tools for ‘landscaping’. You will need your standard shovels,
rakes and hoes.

Note: Under Codex landscaping, except lawns, are legal to keep poison free, but
orchards and gardens must be permitted and tested to make sure you are using all
of the required poisons on them.

Note: The permits are going to be expensive, under Codex/Food Control, the
required poisons are deadly, and the restrictions will be difficult to follow.

If you are going to be raising outlaw quiet meat, carefully rake up and use the
non-poisoned cutting, twigs, leaves, etc, for your livestock bedding.

If you have a generous sized property, you will be allowed a compost pile and you
won’t even have to put any poison on it!

If your property is too small, under Codex/Food Control regulations, you will need
a quiet compost tumbler they will be outlawed under Codex/Food Control. Perhaps
one in your basement and/or attic, or shed wherever you can hide it and use it
without the knowledge of your conformist spouse, if you are unlucky enough to have
married such a lowly creature.

Be sure that your children have no knowledge of your outlaw food production
activities. You will not be allowed to home school your children. Home-schooled
children are generally not conformists. Your children will be encouraged to squeal
on you and will be rewarded to do so.

Back to tools. For your small outlaw gardens: Thin wooden spoons or slates of wood
work best for hand tools. They are silent and even when bumped against something
they make a low thud instead of a high-pitched bell sound of metal tools. Plastic
hand garden tools are somewhat quiet but they break, wear out and must be disposed
of.

Wooden tools can be composted and if you keep some extra slates around, in a
‘tidy’ scrap pile, you can easily make more tools.

Note: All gardens respond to wooden, iron free, tools.

Your outlaw gardens and ‘landscaping’ need to produce the maximum amount of food.
Using wooden tools will give you a 20% increase in food production over plastic
tools. Plastic tools will give you a 10% increase in food production over
metal/iron tools.

Bone tools will give you a 31% increase of food production over metal but where
are you going to get large bones for hand gardening tools? Under Codex/Food
Control no common people will be allowed to raise the ‘big bad meat’ and your
mice, rats and rabbits have too small of bones to use for tools.

A fruit tree is grafted onto a standard disease resistant fruit tree trunk. The
fruit tree is taken, cut, from a known type of fruit.

Commercial growers graft known type of fruit, slips, cuttings onto hardy root
stock, so that they:

1. Have an orchard of all red delicious apples, or etc.

2. Have all the trees the same basic size.
3. Have steady reliable crops, year to year.

If you plant 50 apple seeds (don’t do this with commercial apples, the little
seeds are stunted, partly formed and poisoned)

Note: Never eat fruit seeds if the trees have been poisoned. The poison is
concentrated in the seeds.

Buy a few organic apples, carefully, shallowly, plant the seeds in very deep
containers.

Reminder: As above so below. What you see of a tree, trunk, limbs, leaves above
ground is upside down under ground.

When your little trees appear they will not be identical, in fact the leaves may
have slight differences from tree to tree.

When you plant them, prepare a hole as though you were planting a million dollar
sapping. Big, roomy, old compost, old straw then refill the hole to about 6-inches
below where the roots from your little tree will reach once it is in the hole and
place a piece of corrugated cardboard in the bottom of the hole. Add more dirt and
plant, as any gardening book will tell you. The cardboard will rot away but for
the first year the tree will put all of its energy into feeder and water roots,
instead of the tap root. You will end up with a stronger, healthier and more
stable tree than normal.

Now you can do this with any organic fruit seed or pit. Here is the problem: Plant
50 seeds from one type of apple and odds are you will get 50 different types of
apples. For a commercial grower this would be a disaster.

For the home outlaw ‘landscaper’ this is great. Some of these trees will be 60
foot tall, some will grow to 120 feet tall, none of them will shape/form exactly
like the others, their leaves will look different and be different colors and in
the fall they will react differently from each other in the cool weather.

Such variety will confuse the codex enforcers, into believing this is landscaping.
Do not plant the trees in ‘rows’ scatter them around.

Some years some types of fruit will have a small harvest but others will have a
large harvest. Some years some trees will have a few bugs but the other types
won’t have any bugs.

Note: Consider ‘planting’ organic apples seeds, organic cherry pits, etc, in the
woods near where you live. Away from roads and twenty feet from the waterways to
help reduce the poisons.
You can sneak out and gather fruits to eat and dry, without having the trees on
your property or as backup in case the codex enforcers decide your trees are food
trees and cut them down.

Note: If your trees are cut down, watch for saplings around the stumps. Choose one
and cut out the rest. That one will quickly grow into a tree of fruit exactly like
the type of fruit as the tree that was cut down, if the original tree was not
grafted. The sapling will use the taproot, feeder and water roots from the stump
and grow fast.

If you keep your mouth shut and stay away from that area, except to water, odds
are no one will notice or remember your ‘misbehavior’ of a couple of years ago.

A word about watering food type plants, trees, shrubs, etc, municipal water
supplies are already poisoned. Many of the poisons are bleaches. Bleaches are
desiccants; they dry you out and cause dehydration/cirrhosis. Bleaches act the
same way on plants, trees, shrubs, etc.

What can you do? First, minimize your need for water, by shading the ground.

The easiest and longest lasting way to do this is:

Hard Mulch. Hard mulch is rock, the denser the better.

Hold your hand out flat and spread your fingers. That is the size of rock you want
for hard much. Not round rock but flat rock. One inch to two inches thick, if one
rock is thicker than the others dig out from under it, until it is even/in line
with the others. You will lay these rocks around the drip line of the tree, shrub
or plant. A single layer of these rocks thick and one to two feet wide. You want
to place the rocks so that they almost touch each other but do not lay one upon
the other, also if you have a space bigger than your little finger of bare dirt,
put in a piece of rock.

This is what will happen:

1. You are shading the ground reducing evaporation and reducing competing
grasses.
2. Your water and/or rain will hit the rocks and enter the drip line through
the cracks between the rocks, and water the feeder and water roots of the plant.

Note: Water any tree, shrub or plant at the drip line, do not water them next to
their trunks or spray the foliage.

3. During the day, water will raise up through the ground hit the surface and
if not shaded, evaporate into the air.
4. If you use straw or bark mulch, you will slow down the evaporation. However,
this mulch looks like garden mulch and must be replaced or added to on a regular
basis. It will blow away and get moved around. With rock/hard mulch, you will not
have that problem. In addition: When water rises up in the ground it will hit the
rocks and stop. This saved water will provide most of the water for your trees,
shrubs and plants.

Now is a good time to put rain gutters on the eves of all of your buildings, even
gazeboes!

Under Codex/Food/Water Controls cisterns, rain barrels and even putting a bucket
under a gutter spout will be illegal. However, if you prepare now and plant some
food type shrubs around the above ground cistern, and keep your mouth shut most
people won’t even know they are in place and ready to use.

Reminder: Under every ‘control’ your ‘friends’ are your worst enemies. There is
always some incentive to ‘turn in’ outlaws and under Codex/Food/Water Control
there are many incentives to be a good citizen.

Note: The space/dirt under the cistern will be damp, if you set the cisterns flat
on the ground, from the cistern acting as hard mulch. By planting food shrubs such
as Rosemary, nut or berry shrubs around the bottom of the cistern, the plants will
get a lot of water from the hard mulch action.

Note: There has been a great deal of foolish talk of breeding misquotes in
cisterns and rain barrels. Just put a little cooking oil in the cistern, as it
fills with water the oil will float on top of the water and smother any bugs and
their larvae.

Note: There is never any need to poison bug infestations.

1. Bugs use chemical warfare on each other,

2. And have used changing chemical warfare on each other for billions of years.
3. We can’t win that war by ‘fighting’ on their own ground.
4. Forget poison just smother them with oil.
5. Using a container of oil hooked on your garden hose, spray the water and oil
in a mist over your plants, not so much on the top leaves as on the bottom of your
leaves.

Note: Pure light crude oil, with NO additives, will also work safely.

a. You will kill out huge amounts of bugs.

b. Birds will not be poisoned and they will eat even more bugs.
c. Dirt, ground and water will not be poisoned.
d. Livestock, pets, children, your spouse and you will not be poisoned.

Note: There is never any need to poison ponds or lakes. For bug control, spray the
foliage with cooking oil or light clear crude oil and water. Pour the oil around
the edge. A little goes a long way, so you won’t need a lot. The sun will
eventually break down both oils into fish food.

Alert: Did you think all petroleum was bad? The planets create petroleum and the
earth has been turning it into fish food and fertilizers for years. True, ocean,
whole salt, water and the sun break down petroleum into fish food faster than
fresh water and the sun. No, we are not running out of petroleum. The additives,
chemicals and altered petroleum in the petroleum products are what make petroleum
poisonous.

Note: There is never any need to poison ponds or lakes if an undesirable fish gets
in. Just net and fish it out. Add extra food so the fish grow quicker and invite
everyone to fish free. There is no need to poison the area, ground water and
destroy property values, like what happened to Lake Davis, California.

Note: There is never any need to medicate/poison ponds or lakes because of fish
fungus. Just toss in some brewer’s or bakers yeast with some supplemental feed for
a few days.

And stop the majority of the cause for fish fungus, catch and release. Catch and
release is a filthy and disgusting practice.

If you do not like to eat fish, do not go fishing.

Here is what happens with catch and release:

1. The fish is stressed during hooking and catching.

2. When you hold the fish, to unhook it, you remove the protective
slime/membrane from the fish body. Thus allowing the fungus to get a ‘foot hold’
onto the fish.
3. You ‘release’ the fish into the water, where the fungus may grow into a
problem.

If you have a fish fungus ‘problem’ in a tank, pond or lake supplement the feed,
no poisons/medications (poison), add brewer’s yeast or baker’s yeast to the extra
feed. Stop releasing caught fish.

Minimize handling of commercially raised fish and review the diet. Are you
properly feeding the fish? Are the fish getting enough insects and enough dead
skin cells, etc? Are you keeping the water to clean? Are you introducing bleaches
into the water, in the form of municipal water?

Do not use commercial bug sprays. These smother or coat the lungs of the insects.
They also smother or coat your lungs. They smother with oil and kill with contact
poisons. All respiratory systems are affected by these aerosol poisons/oils.

Outside:

1. Mist plants with cooking oil/clean light crude oil and water.
2. Compost all cuttings, trimmings, etc, except what you use for bedding,
supplement food and chew toys for your quiet meat.
3. Change the bedding of your livestock frequently. Make sure you have good
ventilation.
4. Many plants that interest bees will also interest houseflies.

Alert: Did you think houseflies were ‘created by the devil’ or utterly useless?

The common housefly does most of the pollination of plants.

The ‘problem’ with houseflies is when they enter the house or barns.

Use a bottle with an attractor in it.

A plastic soda bottle with holes, just large enough for a fly to crawl in,
punctured in the shoulders, a little water in the bottom and a few chunks/bits of
carrion, put the lid back on and set in a warm place. This will draw the flies,
capturing them and eventually they die. When the bottle is ½ to ¾ quarters full
burn it and begin other fly bottles. You can use some of the dead bugs to bait the
new bottles with.

If your area is very dry, you will need to add water occasionally.

Place these around the outside of your home and bugs will enter these bottles
instead of your home.

Keep your house and buildings clean and allow the sunlight in. Insects like dim
areas, so paint your walls in off white semi-gloss exterior paint. This will
increase the light and make the walls and ceilings easy to wash.

Make sure underneath your house is screened, but open and well ventilated. This
will dry out under the house reducing cockroaches, termites and molds. Use non-
aluminum window screening and make sure all of your windows and doors are well
screened.

Aluminum gases off at 68-70 degrees and you do not need to be breathing aluminum
gas.

Keep fly swatters handy in every room and use them!

For a safe and effective incest repellent, for yourself and your animals, use
vanilla extract in water. Put in a spray bottle and spray yourself and your
animals.

Note: Grow several vanilla bean plants as ‘house plants’ dry the vanilla beans
place several dried and sort of crushed vanilla beans, in vodka, in a glass jar
with a secure lid. Put this in a warm dark place. You will soon have your vanilla
extract. Add a tablespoon of vanilla extract to one cup of water and pour it into
a spray bottle. Spray it on yourself and on animals.

Shale powdered garlic over your pets and animals, this will chase off fleas and
ticks. Shake powdered garlic over your pillows and furniture, this will chase off
and kill back bed bugs, dust mites and fleas.

By having many types of food trees, 10 or twenty, different apple/cherry/etc, if

you have a bug attack some trees will be affected, some trees will not be
effected.

You will need pine trees, not poisoned. Use the needles, green or dried, in hot
water every morning or most mornings. This cup of tea will give you vitamin C,
trace elements and some phyto-nutrients.

Vitamin C or ascorbic acid is what your body uses to scour out cirrhosis and
infestations. This tea will stave off scurvy and rickets.

Yes rose hips will do the same thing and if you trim off the white portions you
can eat, un-poisoned, rose petals.

But one pine tree will not take up as much room as roses and the pine tree will
have needles year around. You could have a rose hedge but your hedge area would be
better off with a hedge of mixed nut trees and shrubs.

You need fat to live and under codex/food control, the ‘fats’ available will be
altered and poisoned. If you are raising quiet meat, you will have a small amount
of animal fat but not enough for health.

One of the answers is nuts, not peanuts. Manu nuts grow on shrubs or small trees.
These nuts will make hedges.

When the non-poisoned hulls have dropped from the nut shells, gather them up, dry
them and use them for internal parasite control, as all animals do. Offer some
dried hulls to your livestock in a separate container and allow your livestock to
self medicate. They will do so, either by a nibble here or there or with a
gorging, once every ten days or so. Allow your livestock to free feed and always
keep a variety of foods available to them.

When the nuts are harvested and dried be sure to offer your livestock the shells
for food, play and bedding. Be sure to compost the shells.

Using an outdoor composting pile or bin takes a log time to finish compost, so
when you fill one pile/bin be ready to start another. This way you will have a
compost finished, while another is in the middle of composting and yet another is
beginning and another is being filled. An indoor compost tumbler will give you
finished compost in 7 to 10 days. You may have little bits of un-composted bones,
shells and twigs in the finished compost, do not worry about it. These bits will
eventually compost in a planter or on the ground.

Apply finished compost on top of the hard, rock type, mulch surrounding your
outside trees, shrubs, bushes, etc and around the hard, cistern type, mulch in the
early spring. The rains will wash the nutrients to the water and feeder roots.

You will hear and read a lot of nonsense about standard fruit trees and nut trees,
shrubs, etc, taking many years to produce a crop.

Commercially, a crop is a marketable/money crop. For survival, a crop is a dozen

apples on one tree, a bushel on another or a gallon of nuts from one shrub and 10
gallons from another.

If you have as many types of apples, cherries, plum, etc, and as many types of
nuts as your property can support, even a few bites of dried fruits and/or nuts a
day will go a long way to improving your health.

If your climate can, even marginally, support avocado trees, plant some. The oils
and nutrition contained in avocado make them precious.

Avocado trees, if protected from the wind can survive, when planted in the north.
So, some years you don’t get any avocados other years you will.

Same thing about the citrus trees/shrubs. Plant several of each kind.

In large edible landscaping, during codex/food control, go for the ‘natural’ look.
Most environmentalist are conformists, mob type, the equate wild/natural with
perfection and not with food.

Just make sure your wild/natural look contains edible trees, shrubs, plants, etc.

Use hard rock mulch for all of your pathways. This will reduce water loss and give
you firm stepping paths to sneak out at night to harvest your supplemental foods.