A BOOK ON CHINESE AGGRESSION 1962

WAR ON BUDDHA

Dorjee Khandu Thongdok

WAR ON BUDDHA
First Print: April, 2012

Price: Invaluable.

Author :

Dorjee Khandu Thongdok,

Rupa Bazar Lane, Rupa, West Kameng Dt., Arunachal Pradesh. Ph : 03782201259

Printed at : Satyadevi Art Printers Golnaka, Hyderabad. Cell : 9963002465

DEDICATION
This book is dedicated in the fond memory of my father Late Wangdi Thongdok and mother Late Pema Wangjom Thongon who lived through the days of agony and sufferings during the Chinese Aggression. My father was born in an average family at Rupa who lost his parents during his childhood. He was brought up by his eldest sister late Kezang Wangmu, W/o Late Netan Dorjee Lama [Meme Gellong] of Shergaon village who was a Bhoti language teacher in Government Lower Primary School, Rupa. My father later joined the Government service as a forest guard, after Chinese aggression he resigned the government service and setup a small shop in Rupa market. He was sincere, hardworking and has lot of vision for the development of the area. These qualities made him renowned and prominent figure in the society and served as active member in Gram Panchayat and Tupken Village Council before he died in 1978 at the early age of 48.

Dedicated to my beloved parents

Late Wangdi Thongdok - Late Pema Wangjom

FOREWORD
When I first read the manuscript of Mr. Dorjee Khandu Thongdoks book War on Buddha I was totally fascinated and elated. Earlier I have read several books on IndoChina war, but the accent was more on war scenario, but never on the effects of war. Here in this book Thongdok, vividly describes the untold sufferings of the fugitives in the wake of the war, which brings tears to every tender heart. He carries us to every battle field and eulogizes the martyrs, who have sacrificed their lives for the freedom of our nation. The citadels of sacrifice, which stand as an example and inspiration to every military man are rightly given their right places. All the circumstances, which led to the martyrdom of our war heroes, are discussed in depth. Besides the war heroes, the rich culture, tradition and customs and heritage of Shertukpen and Monpa tribes of Arunachal Pradesh are given a befitting place in his book. He not only focused on their habits but has given a glimpse of the history of this region. While many readers are not exactly clear on the reasons, which led to the IndoChina war, Mr. Thongdok clearly explains the root cause of the conflict, failures on the Indian side in the war policy and strategy, the superior combativeness of the Chinese and the stages which predicated into a war; after prolonged research.

- Shri Y.D.Thongchi Recipient, Sahitya Academy Award, Indias Highest Literary Award.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
It wont be fair on my part, if I dont mention the names of Shri Karma Wangchu, ExMLA, Shri Tashi Khandu, Ex-MLA, Shri Netan Dorjee, Gaun Bura of Morshing village, Shri Pema Sonam, Gaun Bura of Mandala Phudung, Shri Wang Dirgipa of Thembang village, Smt Tenzing Pema, Shri Rahul Dam, Smt Rinchin Dema W/o Late Tsering Thongon, Shri Kesang Nguirup Damo APCS, Subedar Dorjee Tashi of Gispu village, Lama Rinchin Tsering of Domkha village and Shri R.K.Thongchi who have given their valuable feedback on the war. As I began to think of all the people to whom I would like to express my appreciation for their support, suggestions and hard work in making this book possible, the list continued to grow. First I would like to thank my friend Mr. A L Naga Raju, who has printed this book and made it available to the public. Then of course, I would like to thank to Mr. Rakesh Ghosh, Mr. Satya Narayana and Mr. Chandan Thakur who toiled to type and correct and read and reread this book, till a fine product has emanated. I am thankful to Dr. J V S Srinivas for the strenuous efforts he has put in editing and preparing the final text.

- Dorjee Khandu Thongdok

WAR ON BUDDHA
The almighty Sun was about to hide behind the Mountain Sungkhit-Phu in speculation of dreadful moments to follow. The mountain Sungkhit phu is holy, as the Sherdukpen tribes worship, and is on the guardian duty. During the month of November, the natives give their offering in the form of a colourful ritual to please the mountain god. Basically this is a festival of war hence a collective war dance is performed during the festivity of KhiKSaba to receive the blessings of the Deity. I was staring at the sun through the window of my classroom. In the meantime, the school bell rang-tong, tong, tong.The Thumping of footsteps could be heard on the wooden floor of the mud plastered lower Primary School of Rupa village. Amidst the hullabaloo of the students eager to go home, our class captain stood up with a smiling face and declared the class dismissed. I put my books, slate and chalk into the local bag, Dawun and ran off the class along with my classmate. Soon I reached the Kakaling (Gateway) of my village Rupa. The Kakaling is the entrance gate of a typical Shertukpen and Monpa village. The name of Rupa is given by the Assamese. It is said that an Assamese princes was married to a Shertukpen king and her name was Rupa. Therefore, the name of Rupa was given after her name. Originally, our village was known as Tumpen-Lo-Me-Khar (Stone house of a man of south). Once upon a time, this region known as the Mon-Tso was ruled by a king known as Tsawang-Gandan- Thong. The great ancestral father of the Shertukpens, Ushu Gyaptem, over threw him out of the kingdom. In course of time, Ushu Gyaptem established the Tukpon-Lho-Mee-Khar as the capital of his kingdom in 1500 A.D. Thik-Dzong on a hillock amid the beautiful green valley of Alpines between two rivers namely Ziding Kho and Dinik Kho. This was in the vicinity of the Kakaling. After walking a little distance with my school bag diagonally across my body, I came across the four storied Gompa of my village. This Buddhist temple was built by Lama Tenpaei Dronme in sixteenth century. Lame Tenpaei Dornme who was also known as Mera Lama, was a renowned Monk who came from Lhasa, the capital of Tibet on the advice of his holiness the second Dalai Lama in order to propagate Buddhism in the Mon region. Our house was located a little down side of the Gompa called Thik-Khong means ancient village. At a gentle pace, I reached my home. The Horse at my home named Yam Odok means big house as this house was made by stone and mud plaster with brown mud, roofed by capricious planks. Its plinth level was about five feet high from the ground having a raised verandah of same height. The wooden flooring of our home was done by thick pine planks and scants including the verandah. The steps were made of long flat stones, some measuring more than four feet length. This was a unique structure and typical Shertukpen dwelling house designed with indigenous architecture. Our ponies, Zorpu and Jamu tied down by the ropes were in the stable. The mounted saddle on the back revealed me as if

the horses were on the verge of a special mission to somewhere. When I entered into the house, my father and mother were hurriedly packing up the luggage. Sister Anu Chandu who was three years old only was screaming in the corner of the house. Co me on, hurry up, we are very late. Most of the villagers might have left the village by this time. put this utensil in the Yung, the basket made by cane and bamboo, my father was hurriedly speaking to my mother. What about the Ting? my mother asked. (Ting a box made of bamboo and cane for keeping precious goods like gold ornaments, silver swords, turquoise, Jed and coral necklace etc.). Oh, I will take it out from the Rapse, prayer room my father said. And dont forget to take your gun (Mother reminded father). Father had a single bore gun which he used to carry with him while taking a long journey. The commotion and the tense situation in the house were confusing me. I could not make out what is going on. I had no courage to ask either but I was getting curious, I thought that we were getting ready to move to our winter camp at Doimara. On a second thought it dawned on me that all the villagers go to Doimara only after our examination is over and when the winter festival Khik-Saba concludes. So many things were happening inside our home and I could just make speculations, when I heard my father murmuring (by the time the Chinese attacked Bomdila, we should be able to cross the Paki-la, the PeriLa-Pass, the highest pass at Eleven thousand feet height on the way to Assam, it is a traditional route through Thongre Chaku Bungpu Khelong Doimara Foothills Kamengbari Misamari - Rangapara). I could not believe my ears was I hearing the truth .Have the Chinese invaded? But my teacher always says that Chinese and Indian are brothers on the slogan of Hindi-Chini bhai- bhai. We even have a portrait of Chacha Nehru and Chou En-Lai hanging on the wall in our classroom inscribing Punch-Sheel. My teacher also told us that India and China have an agreement not to wage any war between the two countries under the banner of Punch-Shil. Let me load this luggage on the pony; carry Anu Chandu on your back with the help of Bima-Yo, a baby carrier cloth. Father said to mother what about Abu Dok (my nick name). She replied he can walk on foot. I will carry him when he gets tired. You lock the door and make sure that nothing is left behind for those bloody Chinese father replied. Father rode the ponies for the journey, while mother was locking the doors of our home. In the mean time, Meme Gellong, husband of my eldest aunty, appeared along with his mule named Kechhang. Meme Gellong who was a native of Shergaon village was a monk by profession. After completion of his studies in Genden Namgam Latso Monastery of Tawang, he went to Lhasa for his further studies in the Sera Monastery where he was conferred with the master degree of Gellong. In fifties when the Peoples liberation army annexed Tibet. Therefore, Meme Gellong was well acquainted with the behavior of the Chinese. He was one of the monks who faced the atrocities of the Chinese during Tibet

uprising. He said to father Ajang Khaw Wangdi , you load your ting on my Kechhang. This mule is well experienced to escape from the war. I bought it from a Tibetan fugitive in the year 1959 when they were fleeing from Tibet. Father acceded to his suggestion and loaded the ting on Kechhang. A Kachingpo the village messenger arrived. He was completely breathless. He said to father Obo Usu (village Head) says we should all flee through Ronggoto via Shergaon. Meme Gelong promptly objected No, Rong- goto is a long passage and will take a lot of time to reach Doimara. If the Chinese attack from Chaku side then we will all be trapped. Better we flee through Peri-La pass which is a shorter route to Doimara, father agreed. Our entourage consisting of fifteen families and the respective ponies and mules began our journey from Rupa. On the way to Thongree, we came across thousands of Indian soldiers going towards Rupa in a single column. They were wearing Oozy coloured cotton cloths and ammunition boots. They had helmets and the three not three rifle hanging from their shoulders. They had a gloomy look on their face. Some of them were gasping as they were not accustomed to such high altitudes and harsh climatic conditions. They had no warm clothing either. When we reached Thognree it was already dark. The entourage headed through the darkness amidst pine and oak jungle. Nobody was talking. Only the trot of the horse hoof and the chirping of the birds could be heard. At around midnight we reached Peri-La pass, the elders decided to relax for a while as the entourage had scaled eleven thousand feet through the stony tacks. We were all tired, hungry and thirsty. The firing of mortar could be heard from Bomdila pass. The elders sensing that the Chinese were very close, called everybody to get ready and move. When we arrived at Chaku, it was still dark. I was moaning with pain and exhaustion. Father lifted me and put on the saddle of Jamu and tied me with the saddle, this was my first experience of a horse ride and initially, I was really nervous and scary. However, after covering a few distances on the horse back, I got little accustomed to riding. Father kept on enquiring whether I was comfortable. I replied I am comfortable. Though the wooden saddle was very hard and was not at all easy, however, it was better than walking on foot. The distance from Chaku to Bompu was 10 kms. By the time we reached Bompu, it was dawn. We could hear the crow of the cock carried by some people in a bamboo cage in the entourage. We stopped at Bompu. Fathers friend Ajang Khaw Tsering shouted listen to me everybody. We are all tired and our children are hungry, so quickly unload the luggage. All the male members should fetch the firewood and set the fire. The ladies should make ready the utensils and rice for cooking. Accordingly Mother placed the rice pot on the fire, father took out his Thambung (a container of local beer) and placed besides the fire, suddenly we could hear the sound of a

vehicle. We saw a power wagon rushing down towards us in full throttle. When the vehicles came near us we heard a man shouting frequently get lost, get lost run immediately the Chinese reached Chaku. A commotion broke out in our camp. Everybody was rushing here and there gathering their belongings. The women and children were crying. Amidst all this chaos, I heard mothers voice shout, throw away the rice, pack utensils, hurry up, bring the luggage, put Abudok on Jamu, I will carry Anu Chandu. Somebody from the crowd shouted move move the entourage hurriedly started to move again. The Horses present neighed restlessly. When we reached Khelong, the open field of Khelong was full of fugitives from Tibet, Tawang and Bomdila. During those days, Khelong was a small Govt. establishment. There was a Divisional Forest Office, a small hospital and a Sub-Division of the CPWD. We saw a Helicopter hovering above us. The pilot was waving a red flag. Nobody could understand what that signal meant. But on the ground rumours floated that the Helicopter has come to rescue us. Hearing it I felt very happy, because we would be rescued, more over I would be flying in the sky for the 1st time in my life. The pilot kept waving the red flag and flew away. The rescue never happened. Father comprehended that the flag must have been a sort of warning to leave the place immediately. Soon we were on the move again. We reached Doimara. Most of the members especially ladies and children were limping due to tedious and the restless journey. However, it was a great relief for all of us to reach Doimara. Doimara is a second home of Shertukpens, all the Shertukpens migrate here during winter for three months. In the camping days they go out for hunting and fishing for their livelihood. Also they very usually go to Assam to collect betel nuts, paddy from their fellow subjects of Assam which is prevalent from time immemorial. Two rivers, Biseri Kho and Daman kho meet here and there is an abundance of various species of fish like silver cup, local fish in these rivers besides the prawn. A few hours later we heard the sound of a vehicle approaching towards us. Soon after a military vehicle came in sight Father raised his hand seeking a lift. The driver was kind enough. He stopped and asked us to get into the vehicle. But only the women, children and old men were allowed to board, as the others had to pull the ponies and the mules with the luggage. During the journey a Tibetan lady vomited due to giddiness as she was travelling by the vehicle for the 1st time. The stink made all the co-passengers uneasy and disturbed. In the evening we reached Kamengbari. The Army one tonner stopped as it was the last stoppage. We all got down from the vehicle. A few hours later my father and the men folk arrived with the ponies and the mules loaded with our luggage. In Kamengbari there was a

heavy movement of vehicles in the wake of the war. The Government had deputed a base Superintendent to convey the refugees to Assam and we were ordered to move as soon as possible. My father told everyone that since human life is more precious than any other thing, so everyone should carry the minimum things required and leave the other things behind. If good fortune prevails then we will get back all that we have left behind. My father let loose Zorpu, Zomu and Kechhang, our faithful and beloved horses in the open field and said goodbye to them with a heavy heart. The base Superintendent Mr. C.T.La at Kamengbari had requisitioned some buses for the fugitives. We hurriedly got into the bus and started our journey towards Rangapara through Missamari. On the way one of the buses broke down. However, since the other buses were jam packed, the fugitives could not be lifted and had to be left behind with the broken down bus. We reached Rangapara and the bus stopped near the Inspection Bungalow. All of us got down from the bus. Uncle Gellong, Chewang and uncle Pema were frantically searching for their beloved near ones. But I realized that they were in the bus that had broken down on the way. The news of those separated families and their whereabouts did not reach us ever since. I was glad and realized as to why my father and uncle Tsering had accompanied us on the same bus, hiding themselves since women and children were only allowed to board in that bus. When we reached Rangapara from Kamengbari, it was dark. All the shops were closed. We rushed to Rangapara junction. The platform was full of people, running around to catch their last train. The compartments were all jam-packed, not even an inch of free space was left in the compartments. Next to the last compartment there was a wagon. We found a few people were playing cards inside; they were reluctant to leave the wagon and started an argument. My uncle Tsering got angry. He shouted at the crowd look everybody, the country is in a great crisis the soldiers are dying in the war and people of the border area are rendered homeless. The entire country is crying and these stupid persons are playing the cards, enjoying and killing time in this wagon, while we are all tired and hungry. It angered everybody over there. People thronged in the wagon, hauled out those four people out of the wagon. We somehow got some space in the wagon and settled down. Soon the bell rang and minutes later the train rolled out of the station, whistling and chugging. The train had picked its speed. It was quite calm inside the wagon. Most of us had fallen asleep. Suddenly a loud and worried voice woke us all. It was Meme Gellong. He was quite worried and looking around in the wagon. His wife and children were not in the wagon. They had failed to board the wagon during the commotion at the platform. Now everybody was really worried and nervous. Meme Gellong started crying, I should get down now. I should find my wife and children or else they will die. My father consoled Meme Gellong

get down in the next station in Missamari. Meme Gellong got down at Missamari and went in search of his family. There after his where about are not known to us. In the morning we reached Rangia junction, from Rangia we boarded a train which was heading for Guwahati. The construction of Saraighat Bridge over Brahmaputra River had just completed. Our train entered the lower deck of the bridge. My father explained to mother that the upper deck was meant for vehicles and the side railing was for the pedestrians. My mother took out a coin from her bibing (gaunt) and threw it in the mighty river of Brahmaputra. She closed her eyes folded her hands and prayed oh, holy Brahmapurta, bestow us your blessing May we get back to our homeland soon. The moment we crossed the bridge, it was joyous moment for me. The train entered Guwahati in a gentle pace, Guwahati the biggest city in the north-east was very busy. The train stopped at platform no 1. I was very happy to see some of the students from Bomdila High School at the platform. As soon as they saw us, they came rushing towards us and greeted us. They took us all to Sona Ram High School. There were no tables or benches in the classrooms. The school was vacated to give shelter to the fugitives. The students and the NGOs provided us meal. It was the best meal I had since I left my home. They also provided us accommodation in the school. The necessary clothes and beddings were made available to us. Every evening the students used to entertain the refugees in the school with colourful programmes. I made friends with five children of my age. Since the school was near the river, we used to go to the river side and play in the sand. One day when we came back from the river side we found that our parents were sad and had a very gloomy, look in their face. They enquired as to where we went and where we were playing. Our parents scolded us. They reprimanded us not to go near the railway track to play near it. A Tibetan lady and her child had been run over by a train that evening while they were crossing the railway bridge. It was very sad news. Everybody in the camp felt sad and sorry for the lady and her child. During our stay in Guwahati, my father went back to Kamengbari to collect his gun which was seized by an Army Officer during escape. He also intended to find our ponies and mules- Zorpu, Jamu and Kechhang. My father returned to the camp a few days later, we asked him if he had seen the horses. Father frowned and told us that neither the gun nor the horses were found. My mother asked my father if he met anybody from our village at Rangapara and Missamari. Father replied that he met his brother Pema in Hagrajuli and Cousin Peng Khai who narrated the happenings during their journey to Jhargaon in Assam via Rong-Goto. Father further told mother that one group had reached Dhansiri and were working as daily earners at Dhansiri bridge project. Another group had reached Jhargaon safely and they had also performed the Khik-Saba Puja.

On receiving the news that the Chinese had captured Bomdila on 18th November, 1962, the second party of the villagers packed their belongings and fled from Shergaon through Rong-Goto, a traditional track used by the people of Shergaon to go to Doimara and Assam. People were so panicked that they started running. The old people were carried by the younger ones. Some old people were left behind, and they started crying. Pieces of cloths were stacked in the bell tied around the neck of the horses so that the noise of the horse bell could be silenced. Every one walked in hushed silence. Only whispering could be heard. In mid way they were joined by three soldiers. One of them was wounded in the leg by a bullet. They were also starving. The villagers then gave them food and whatever they had. The soldiers then took another route saying that if the Chinese fire on them the civilians would also be killed along with them. The party crossed many tributaries of the Belsiri river. Many children had to cross the river with the fear of drowning as the river was very deep. While crossing a log bridge a three months old child slipped away from her mothers back and fell into the river. The river swept her away and she was drowning. Fortunately, some of the youths jumped into the river and rescued the little child. The party reached Chopai and halted in the deep forest full of wild elephants and tigers. They could not sleep throughout the night due to disturbance by wild elephants. The trumpet of the elephants could be heard from nearby areas. Everyone was very afraid of the wild elephants. So far the people were scared of the Chinese, but now they had the fear of wild elephants too. Everyone anxiously waited for the dawn and wanted to reach their destination as soon as possible. Their resolve to reach Assam made them walk for two consecutive days and finally they reached Jargaon. This area is inhabited by the Boro people of Assam. People of Rupa have close ties, both economically and traditionally with the Boro people. The peasants of Jargaon were very kind and hospitable. They provided ration commodities to the people arriving from Rupa. They then went to a nearby grazing field and pitched their camp. The youths fetched fire woods, the women folk fetched water and the food was prepared for everybody. Everyone had a very sumptuous meal after almost a week. They halted at Jargaon for three days. On the fourth day an official messenger informed us that they have to leave Jargaon immediately and proceed to the nearest refugee camp at Udalguri. The old women and the children were sent by train from Hugrajuli station. The elder members went to Udalguri on foot taking along with them all the horses. They stayed at Udalguri in huts for nearly a month. Having nothing to do, the people sat around in groups and discussed about the war. Later they were shifted to Dhansiri. All the heads of the household were employed in the construction of the bridge as daily wage labourers at a rate of Rs.3.00 per day. They were also provided free ration and

cloths by the Government. A temporary school was also opened at Dhansiri for the children. One day some Government Officials arrived in our camp and informed everybody that the next day all the refugees should move to Brahmapur in Nagaon District. A bus arrived the next day and picked up all of us to Brahmapur. We reached Brahmapur the same day; it was a refugees camp. A series of barracks had been built with bamboo walls and thatched roof. A room was allotted to each family. One day a Government messenger arrived to the refugee camp with information about the official program of the visit of the Honble Prime Minister of India Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. He would inaugurate the Soraighat Bridge and also visit the refugee camp. The preparation for the VVIP visit in the Sibir began in full swing. One evening all the heads of the families gathered in our Sibir. A discussion ensued as to how the problems faced by the refugees in the camp should be highlighted to the Prime Minister. The problems include no potable drinking water facility, no firewood for fuel, the issue of ration commodities to the refugees etc. Even for one kg of rice one had to wait for weeks together. The Government was not taking proper care of the refugees. No medical facility existed in the camp. Since the Sibir was constructed far away from the town, there was no shop in its vicinity. Once my mother asked me to fetch some twigs for making fire I walked a long distance in search of the twigs. When I reached a village, a villager came running towards me with a stick. However I ran as fast as I could back to our Sibir. All these problems were discussed in the gathering and it was decided that we should place all these problems before Nehruji through a speaker. As per schedule, Nehruji arrived in the Sibir. All the refugees gathered to welcome Nehruji. In the meeting Apa Ngerpala from Tawang expressed deep resentment towards the facilities and the management of the Sibirs. He expressed the difficulties faced by the refugees in the Sibir. Nehruji hearing the grievances of the refugees assured that all the best possible efforts would be made to take care of the refugees in the Sibir. The very next day onwards the Government Officials became very active and started their activities as if they have been awakened from a deep slumber. The basic problems of the Sibir were solved. Every evening, we all friends assembled at the house of Rinchin Dorjees grandmother. She used to tell us a lot of stories and folk tales. The most interesting story that I heard from her was that on Ling Geser Gepu, the hero of the story and the villain was Hor Gepu. We used to term the Chinese as Hor Gepu after listening to the story. My father was a very laborious man. It was not in his blood to stay idle. Every time he was in search of work. One night he came very late. He seemed very depressed and

frustrated. My mother served him meal. Father said to mother it is better to live in hell than to live in a refugee camp. To become a refugee is itself a curse. It is better to be born as beggar than a refugee because being a beggar at least we can beg around for food. But nobody will give anything to us as we are physically fit. The town is very far away or else at least we could get some work at the town. There is no land of our own where we could grow crops. We even dont have our own house. We are homeless, landless and a refugee. How will I take care of my family? I heard my mother weeping from the bed. When I woke up in the morning, father had already left for some work. I saw mother praying and chanting religious prayers sitting on the bed next to me. I had nostalgia for my own village, the lush green mountains, the fields, the rivers where I used to go with my friends for fishing for my Gach-yam (Stone house), our school, our traditional Gompas and our teachers. We have two milking cows. Father used to milk those cows early in the morning. I was feeling very sad. Where must be the cows now? How is our home? How is our village? I asked my mother Aami why did the Chinese attack us? Why do they want our land? Dont they have land in China? When will we get back to our native village and stay in our Gacha yam? Will I be able to go for fishing in Dinik-Kho River again? Will our school reopen and will I be able to continue my studies? Will I ever see my village again? Mother said nothing. She gently caressed my head and continued with her prayers. I was thinking of my friends, relatives and all that I did in my village. What a wonderful and peaceful life we used to have in the village. Now, here in the refugee camp, I could not wander around, could not go fishing and had no friends to play with and had no school. All these thoughts made me sad. I just hoped that the war will end someday and that I would be able to go back to my village with my parents. As if Mothers prayers had been answered, a few days later a message came from a high level official that the war was over. The Chinese had declared ceasefire and have returned back to China. The news spread like wild fire in the camp. Now all the refugees could go back to their respective homelands. There was a mixed reaction in the camp. People were crying and hugging each other. Old people were thanking God with folded hands. Folk songs and merry making could be heard everywhere. The nightmare had come to an end. The people were impatient. They wanted to get out of the camp as soon as possible as they had exhausted all their resources and longed to go back to their homelands and start a fresh life again. It was really a very miserable life staying in the refugee camps. The next day some of our villagers started very early for the journey back home. They didnt even intend to stop at Doimara where they chose to stay for months during our winter camp. A Nepali couple used to stay near our Sibir. He owned a jeep. He used to take father with him to the town whenever he went to the town to fetch grocery and other items. He must have come from the Foothills as father had a very good acquaintance with him. This

gentleman dropped us at the Ferry Ghat in his jeep, when we left the Brahmapur Refugee camp. For the first time in my life I was going to travel by a boat. I was very happy; I could see many large fish around the boat as it inched forward in the Brahmaputra River. People in Assam called this big fish as Xihu. I assume that it must be a species of Dolphin. We reached Tezpur and from there we boarded a train to Rangapara and halted at Rangapara. Next morning father and his friends managed to get a vehicle which took us up to Kamengbari. All the villagers who had fled from Rupa and nearby villages were coming to Kamengbari. They intended to stay for few more months at Kamengbari till normalcy was completely restored. It was a moment of joy for everybody. They were meeting each other after many months. Greetings were exchanged and a lot of merry making followed. People were also apprehensive. They were talking about our village. It reminded me of the last day of Brahamapur Refugee Camp. The base Superintendent at Kamengbari, who was deputed to look after the people by the Government distributed relief cloths. He used to throw the cloths at the crowd and as always the strong and able persons used to get the cloth. Life was slowly returning to normalcy. One fine morning, to our surprise, our trusted Ponies, Zorpu and Jamu appeared in Kamengbari, but Kechhang, another pony never came back. The journey back home to Rupa from Kamengbari was very different. People were happy as well as sad. An atmosphere of insecurity prevailed all the way. The sight of ammunition boots, belts, burnt tanks, demolished, vehicles, mortars, helmets and rifles of soldiers, graves of the soldiers lying here and there throughout the route made us feel sad and filled us with deep anguish. It reminded us of the fierce battle that our brave soldiers had fought in such harsh terrains and uncooperative climatic conditions. The splinters of grenades, empty bullets and bullet ridden and burnt vehicles were testimony of the fierce battle that took place in that area. Now they stood as mute spectators to the people who were returning to their homelands. The old and elderly people prayed for the eternal peace of all those who had laid down their life for our sake. This was my first experience of war and its aftermath. The devastation was extensive and it was to leave a very lasting effect on my life and memories. We finally reached Rupa, instead of being happy, people were sad. The whole village was in shambles. Many houses were destroyed. The field where we used to play was now full of litters. Ammunition Boots, Helmets and empty bullets lay all over the place. There was an eerie silence in the whole village. The houses stood still and stare at us. The dust ridden gully inside the village was empty. The whole village seemed very haunted. It seemed like as if they were scolding us, so, ultimately you cowards have come back. You left us alone and fled away. You handed us over to the enemy. You should be happy staying

in others houses. Dont you put your foot on my steps? Dont dare to set your foot inside us. Rupa will never forgive you. In due course of time after the war steadily discarded and village resumed to normalcy. All the villagers got into their routine tasks. Over the period we had lost one academic session. Our school was not reopened because our teacher has not yet turned up due to the war phobia. The spring has already set in. It was very difficult on our part to kill the time. So we kept on playing all around with our friends. One day one of our friends, Tsering Thongdok prepared a plan for fishing in the small river named Dinik Kho flowing next to the village. Though the river is small but it was a hub of local trout fishes. Its delicious to eat if boiled with schezwan pepper, locally known as Se-ah and bamboo shoots. Accordingly, we all assembled on the bank of river. We adopted one of the popular methods of diverting the river known as Kho Lepa. Since the raw materials like boulders, sand and tree leaves were easily available around It didnt take much time for the water level to recede. As soon as the water became shallow, we could see fish rushing up stream and down in search of the safer place to hide and it reminded me the dreadful moments of the war which concluded very recently. Survival of the fittest Ae! What are you thinking, Dont want to catch the fish? intercepted my friend Rinchin who was already engaged in catching the fish. The boys were all busy to grab the best fish, then, suddenly a cracking sound of a blast broke the silence in the downstream which drew the attention of all of us. Tsering Thongdok appeared with blood gushing on the face and hands and fell down. Realizing the grave situation we all rushed down to him. Around him we discovered pieces of the splinters of grenade which injured the face and chest of Tsering. Later he died succumbing to his injury. The news broke out in the village like a wild fire. From that day onwards we were not allowed to go to the river for fishing. In the bedrock of the war some funny incident occurred. In Thongre village some Chinese soldiers noticed one of the houses in smoke. They encircled the house. One of the Chinese went inside the house suspecting someone was inside the house. When he entered into house he found a deaf man inside who was cooking a meal for himself. Finding no Indian soldiers he climbed up on the wooden ladder to find any one on the second floor in the granary. The deaf man abused the Chinese in his highest pitch of voice Get down immediately, what are you stealing? I caution you to get down. If Mistress Karma sees you, you will get a good whip. Similarly, in Rahung village, a middle aged person could not flee along with fellow villagers due to his grown up daughter who was lying on the bed suffering from paralysis. A fellow villager entered his house to ask him to flee along. He found him inside sharping his chopper. He said that I am helpless, I cannot flee lea ving my handicapped daughter behind. But dont worry, if the Chinese enter my house I will chop them to pieces.

A few villagers of Jigoan did not flee due to unavoidable circumstances. So, they decided to hide in the nearby secured places in the jungle. While hiding for some days there they ran short of ration commodities. Four of them decided to fetch the same from their respective houses. When they reached their village they were encircled by the Chinese and were ordered to raise their hands at gun point. Chinese ordered them to move to Bomdila the Camp site. So, they all moved to Bomdila. The Bayonet repeatedly made them to move fast in the up hills. They ultimately reached Bomdila fully exhausted. They could hear the beating sound of the heart. One Tibetan fellow, named Pejo, appeared before them. He happened to be a black smith who moves from village to village for the purpose of black smithy. So he could speak the local dialect. Therefore the Chinese deputed him as an interpreter and he started interrogating them. At the end the Chinese understood that these fellows were native people of the locality. Hence, the Chinese released all of them providing some food grains which were loaded on some donkey probably left by some Tibetan fugitive. Finally they came back to Jigoan riding their Donkey gorgeously as if they have won the battle. Soon Rupa regained its normalcy. The school re-opened. People went about their daily chores. I completed my studies at the school and joined Bomdila Higher Secondary school, where I enrolled myself in the National Cadet Crops(N.C.C.). Our N.C.C. instructor Shri M.P.Tyagi beckoned me to the store room to get my uniforms. I went inside. He took out the uniform from the wardrobe and issued to me. The oozy colour cloths suddenly reminded me of my days of flight from Rupa. It reminded me of those soldiers that I had come across on the way to Thongree. What might have happened to them? Are they still alive or they dead in the war? The ammunition boot reminded me of my journey back to Rupa from the Refugees camp in Assam. I felt very bad. However, it also reminded of the brave soldiers. Soon after I decided to visit all those places where the battles had taken place during the Chinese aggression. During the winter, the people of Rupa and its adjoining villages go to Doimara for spending the winter there. However, this winter I decided to go to Tawang to know more about the Chinese aggression of 1962. My friend Norbu also reconciled to my idea. On a sunny morning, we hired a jeep and started our journey towards Tawang . The jeep was very old and was not in a very good condition. It was a Class-V vehicle brought from the defense auction. The driver of the Jeep was Dhan Bahadur Thapa, who was a retired army driver. We took off our journey from Rupa Bazar line towards our destination. As soon as I came across the Ziding-Kho River I was reminded of the battle of Lhagyala. Lhagyala is a holy place located about five hundred meters above Morshing village. There is a Gompa built by Khandu Drowa Zangmu, an incarnation of Goddess Dolma (Tera Devi). On the north of the Gompa there is a stone which harbors the foot print of the hunting dog of

Gepu Kalawangpu the king of Mandel - Khang. Gepu Kalawangpu was fond of hunting. While hunting in the jungle of Lhagyala, he lost his hunting Dog and followed the foot prints of his dog. Then he came across a small house and found an old couple inside the house. In the next room, he saw a beautiful girl in mediation. She was none other than Khandu Drowa Zangmu. Enamored by her beauty, the King proposed to marry her. Hence she became one of the Queens of Mandle Khang. On her advice Lama Katsen built the Lhagyala Gompa many centuries ago. A little away from the stone, there is a secret pond called TsoChang. Beside the pond lie the war cemetery of Lieutenant Colonel B Avasthi and his party who were killed in the battle of Lhagyala. Lieutenant Colonel B. Avasthi along with 300 solders of fourth battalion of Rajput regiment crossed the river Ziding-Kho at Rupa on 22nd November and took position on the ridge at Lhagyala the next day. The commander was not all too happy with the strength of the solders as the Brigade Commander deployed some of the soldiers of Rajput regiment at other places. The Rajput regiment was positioned at Lhagyala peak to defend the enemy from advancing from Mandala Phudung. On 23rd November morning this troop was heavily engaged by the enemy with Light Machine Gun fire and mortar fire even though the Chinese had declared unilateral cease fire on 20th November. The Lhagyala peak is basically a grazing ground of yaks and sheep. Netan Dorjee, Gaon Bura of Morshing village still narrates the story of the battle of Lhagyala. When the Gharwal Regiment stopped the Chinese advancement at Nuranang Sela Pass for more than 48 hours, the Chinese having no other route to penetrate, diverted their route through the Mandala ridge. The Chinese marched forward towards Lhagyala Nyokrook ridge, sensing the advance of the Chinese troops, Colonel Awasthi and his troops hid behind the bamboo bushes in the field of Pangthang. When the Chinese finally arrived, the Indian Army started perpetual firing from behind the bamboo bushes. This lasted for a day and a night. Since the Chinese were in multitude, the Indian armies were outnumbered. Col. Awasthi was captured and killed mercilessly by wrapping the bamboo around his neck and pulling him with it. This pathetic scene was seen by a local yak grazer lad from a tree. Both the Chinese and Indians suffered heavy casualties. The dead bodies of the Chinese soldiers had to be stacked in the stable and kitchen of the Lhagayala Gompa and the empty classrooms of the school and community hall of the village. Thereafter they loaded the dead bodies on the horses and headed towards Dirang. Every horse was loaded with 2 dead bodies. The caravan was so long that when the first horse reached Khelong the last horse was still at Lhagayala. Netan Dorjee also described that hundreds of Indians were also got killed while some others got wounded. The wounded soldiers managed to escape to Shergaon village and stayed in the local hideout. During that time some miscreants and half-crazy persons

reached Shergaon. The village was completely discarded since entire village fled away in the wake of the war. Not a single human being and livestock were visible. When they reached the middle of the village, they saw some smoke coming out from one of the local houses. They all decided to go to that house. They entered into the house; one of them had a SBBL 12 bore gun in his hand. When they entered into the house, they saw two soldiers near the fire place. One was preparing food for both. The other one was an army officer who was sleeping beside the fire place with a bullet injury on his leg. Probably due to his injury he was unable to walk and they might have decided to stay back till the wound got healed. Initially both the soldiers were happy to find some fellow men around them who would help them to go back home. On the contrary those people were not happy finding them in the village. An elderly person asked his colleagues to drag them out of the house. They were taken to the courtyard. Lest the Chinese should not notice them with Indian army and kill all of them, the gunman of the group triggered his gun and shot at the officer from a point blank range. Before he loaded the cartridge the co-soldier managed to escape. The ill-fated army officer who had narrowly escaped from the bullets of the enemy has fallen ultimately in the hands of their own countrymen. Over a period of time it was learnt that the killer was originally from Bhutan and his name was Auchin Dakpa. He was a Vagabond. While crossing the bridge over Ziding-Kho named Hoshier Bridge, the bridge was named after Brigadier Hoshier Singh who was the Brigade Commander of 62nd Brigade. While crossing the Hoshier Bridge I was reminded of the Bravery of Hoshier Singh, which my uncle used to narrate me time and again. My uncle used to tell us the tale of Mandala Phudung battle and the story would always start with name of the war hero Brigadier Hoshier Singh. Uncle was very curious to see the Indian Army in the Army uniform. His ambition was to become part of the Indian Army. Some of the youths from our village had already joined in the Assam Rifles Regiment. Wherever they used to come back home on leave, they were looking smart and handsome. So, most of the young girls of Rupa used to fall in love with them. My uncle and colleagues were very jealous of them. One day uncle heard about the arrival of some troops at Dinik Gisi, the river confluence of Ziding Kho and Dinik Kho in the east of Rupa. At Dinik-Gisi, he found the tents pitched in a row. A durbar was being held at the camp. All the soldiers were sitting on the ground and Brigadier Hoshier Singh was addressing them. Brave soldiers, we have come here to save our motherland; the nation is in great threat from the enemies. The time has come for us to prove our worth and our true love for our nation. Do you remember the pledge we had taken during the passing out parade? We pledged to never bow down before the enemy, rather prefer to kill or be killed till the last breath. We wont let the enemy take even an inch of the soil of our motherland. A coward dies hundred deaths, but a brave one dies only

once. Each and every bullet that shoots out from your gun should pierce the enemy chest. You are soldiers from the land of brave kings and warriors like Virangana Rani Lakshmi Bai, Rana Pratap Singh, Vir Shivaji, freedom fighter Bhagat Singh, Chandra Shekhar Azad and Netaji Subash Chandra Bose. Your names will be written in Golden letters in the annals of this war, Jai Hind. My uncle who was listening to all this came back home and was greatly influenced. He started to walk around in the home like a soldier. Seeing him my father laughed and told him to get the horses ready. The Headquarter of the 62nd Brigade was in Bomdila. In the wake of the war, the General Officer Commanding of Forth Infantry Division Major General Pathnia ordered Brigadier Hoshier Singh to defend Sela. Later on he was withdrawn from Sela and asked to move to Mandala Phudung to resist the advance of the Chinese advancing through Mandala ridge. The Army camping at Dinik-Gisi was advancing to Mandala Phudung and they required every possible transportation for carrying the ammunitions and ration commodities. Next morning all the youth assembled at Dinik-Gisi with all the horses. All the ammunitions and ration commodities were loaded on them. The Brigadier Hosier Shings party along with the local porters and the horses crossed the Morshing river and they reached Khelong. Khelong is a very cold place due to its high altitude. My uncle and other porters of Rupa village had to sit around the fire set by them to get rid of coldness. A soldier rushed to them and scolded them to put off the fire or else the enemy would locate this place. Accordingly, they extinguished the fire. A little moment after that, they heard the firing of mortars across the mountain from Mandala ridge side. Next morning the party saw that not a single corn was left in the fields, due to the shelling. Uncle put the ammunitions and rations commodities allotted to him on his horse along with others and they proceeded towards Mandala Phudung to the north. At noon they reached Mandala Phudung, unloaded the horses and returned back to Rupa. Later on Brigadier Hoshiyar Singh joined his troops at Mandala Phudung. The sun had just set behind the mountain Mount Mandala, when the Chinese troop consisting of about 3000 men and women soldiers arrived at the Gompa which is located on the top of the Mandala Phudung village, a Monpa village on the border of Bhutan. The Chinese came via Mandala ridge probably, said Kejang Dondu. The inhabitants of this village are farmers; however, some of them rear yak and some sheep for their livelihood. This village is located on the left bank of Ata Ziding River. Chinese took a little rest in the Gompa premises and started marching towards Pandok Phu, a place located on the west of the village. Probably, they might have seen Indian army across the river Ziding Kho at the location called Khram Jaksu.

Then the Chinese took their position at Pandukpu. Realizing the situation, the villagers started to flee from the village. Of course, the Chinese asked them to remain in their respective house to avoid from bullet hit on account of cross firing on the battle field. But the villagers didnt comply with the instruction of the Chinese and took shelter in the caves away in the jungle. By that time it was completely dark. To illuminate the enemy, the Chinese focused the dragon light, aimed and burst on the Indian soldiers which resulted in heavy causalities of Indian soldiers. Although the Indians retaliated the Chinese sustained less causalities comparatively. The battle lasted several hours. Probably, Indian army had limited ammunitions; they started running away from the battle field. However Brigadier Hoshier Singh took cover behind a rock on the bank of the river across the Ata-Ziding River and resisted the Chinese soldiers advancing towards Mankhargur log Bridge point. But finally he got killed. The Chinese put his dead body into a coffin made by planks collected from the primary school and buried on the left bank of the river Ziding Kho. The distance from Rupa to Bomdila is only 18 Km. But it took us one hour to reach Bomdila because Bomdila is located 3500 ft above Rupa and full of U-curves enroute. Bomdila is located at the mountain known as Thong Ja(meaning king of mountains). The original name of Bomdila was Bomthe Lu means a mountain of thick bamboos. The altitude of Bomdila is 9000 feet above the sea level. Hence, snow falls regularly during the winter season. This administrative centre was established by Major R. Khatin, an Indian frontiers administrative service officer on deputation from Indian army. He was a Naga by origin thus he preferred to establish the Head Quarter of Kameng Frontier Division on the top of the mountain in the year 1953. Barring Government employees there was hardly any other inhabitants in the small township. There is a temple of the Lord Buddha which is located a little away from the craft center run by the Government. The District head quarter has no market except a small tea stall, where one could get tea and biscuits once in a blue moon. There was a High School with hostel facility at the present Kameng Club building. The political officers office was situated about two hundred meters away from the school and the circuit house was located about three hundred meters away from the office of the Political Officer. The houses were built either by the timber or bamboo. During the Chinese aggression the political officer of Bomdila was K.C.Jhori, an efficient officer. He successfully managed to evacuate civilians of the township including the students out of the trouble water in the nick of time otherwise more civilian causalities would have occurred in the wake of the war. On 19th November the First Sikh light Regiment took their position near the school building at Bomdila to stop the enemy from advancing. The enemy with small arms and light machine guns attacked them with heavy fire. The Regiment retaliated strongly. The cross shilling of fire lasted about three hours. Since, the enemy soldiers outnumbered the

Indians the Regiment had to face a defeat. However in this battle the enemy suffered more causalities leaving behind two hundred fifty dead compared to 22 dead, 35 wounded and 16 missing on the Indian side. The Chinese comprising of about seven hundred soldiers came out from the thick forest and attacked the Indian defense position near circuit house which was successfully pushed back. In the 2nd attempt the Chinese could over ran the Indians. In their further advancement, the Chinese was taken by surprise when they came under repeated light machine gun shelling hid in two tanks standing near the political office. With great effort the Chinese could resist the Indian defiance. In the operation the Chinese sustained several causalities as they were unaware of the sudden and unexpected resistance from Indians. We did not stop at Bomdila since we had to cover a long distance more than 200 Km. Luckily the weather of Bomdila was bright and beautiful. The snow clad mountain of Gangri Tsen could be seen at a glance while crossing the Bomdila pass. The pyramid of snow is a paradise of the mountaineers. A good number of mountaineers did scale summit in their adventure trips. While staring at the beautiful mountain I could see Thembang village which happened to be in the same direction as of Gangri Tsen. The village reminded me the story of the battle of Chaku held on 21st November, 1962. The fugitives of this village got trapped in the cross firing of Chinese versus First battalion of the Sikh Light Regiment and the sixth battalion of eighth Gorkha Rifles of Indian troops posted at Chaku. The troops had no tools for preparing their trenches. In the absence of the tools, they were digging the trenches with the help of the masstins and bayonets. The men were busy in preparing their trenches suddenly the digging noise was subdued by the sound of heavy gunfires of light machine gun and mortars from the surrounding height. The Sikhs and Ghorkas took position started retaliating the attack of the enemy. Unfortunately the troops ammunition got exhausted and they were totally assaulted by the enemy. In this battle Maj. J.S.Negi, Captain Rajendra Singh, Subedar Nandu Rai were among those killed by the enemy. During the battle, the villagers of Thembang, those who were fleeing from Thembang village to save their lives got trapped. Four villagers namely Dorjee Pema, Lebi Tsering, Kukma and Dow got killed at Chaku. These ill-fated persons, when reached Bompu realized that their ration commodities have been left behind by mistake at Chaku without which they would die in starvation. So, they decided to go back to Chaku to recover those commodities. When they reached Chaku they were trapped in the cross firing and got killed leaving behind their children. Later on the orphans of the victims were taken to refugees camps by the fellow villagers. Thembang is about 15 Kilometers by porter track from Bomdila and about 300 mtrs above the Dirang Tsu. It is located on a plateau. On 16th November Maj Mani and his company of 5 Guards reached Thembang in the evening and his battalion also reached

Thembang on next day afternoon headed by its commanding officer Lt. Col. Jai Singh. Due to non availability of transports and mules, the Battalion could concentrate on Bomdila Dirang road (from where the track leads to Thembang). The additional 3-inch mortars ammunition had to be carried by unit personnel. The Thembang village was originally a fort known as Thembang Dzone. It had two gateways one from the north and another from the south known as Kakaling. The Chinese which were pushed through the Luguthang-Poshingla Chhang La Thungri were split in two sub column from Lagam. One went south west to Chanthar and Munna Camp at 31 Kilometers on night of 1718th November and established road block to cut line of control between Bomdila and Dirang. The other and probably much bigger sub-column went to Thembang and Bomdila and established road block at Km 9 north of Bomdila. This sub column went ahead to Rupa and broke up into three parties one going to Tenga, the second one going to Pirila pass and Chako and the third to Phudung. The sub-column which was pushed to Thembang met a strong resistance from the fifth battalion of the Guards Regiments at Thembang village on 17th November, 1962. According to Atabu, a villager of Thembang who did not flee during the war was an eye witness, who narrated the story about the Thembang battle. According to him the Chinese invaded through Luguthang TOPGAY CAMP. Some of the grazers of Mago and the Thimbu villages fled away while some others stayed back. The shrewd Chinese picked up two brothers namely Kejang and Towchung form Mago village as local guides by paying inducement. Later after the war they were arrested and put behind the bars by the Subsidiary Intelligence Bureau (SIB) at Bomdila and handed over to the Central Reserve Police Force (CRPF). In view of the enemy attack the Political Officer of Bomdila deputed some political interpreter to Thembang to vacate Thembang immediately on account of the Chinese aggression. A platoon of Assam Rifles posted at Pangi-la gave some resistance for some hours and burnt down their own ration store and withdrew. Later on the Chinese captured Pangi - la and further proceeded to Poshing La and Tsang La where a Helipad is located. Realizing the advancement of the Chinese, Three platoons of Assam Rifles positioned at Poshing La, Tsang La and Thungri withdrew without giving any resistance. Incidentally a few Indian Air Dropper dropped ration commodities haphazardly, while those places were already occupied by the Chinese. The Chinese Army was very happy finding ration commodities dropped by the Indian Air Sorties. They further proceeded and reached Lhagam and from Lhagam, the Chinese army were again guided by a person namely Dorjee Jombu a local guide of Lhagam village and reached Thembang. By that time the Indian

Army had already taken position at Thembang village approaching from Bomdila and Rhaong following the traditional track. Thereafter, a fierce battle took place. Which lasted for more than one and half days as per the report of Atabu who was an eye witness. He said, two Indian army officers took position at Latsong a small hamlet of Thembang towards East of Thembang village. The Latsong hamlet was strategically located at a commanding location in war point of view and they could visualize the advancement of Chinese army from advancing from Lhagam. The army commanders were sending signals to Bomdila defence post about the position of the enemy so that they could be defended by the heavy mortar guns, while the others were firing on the Chinese. Accordingly the army unit fired at the Chinese position about two kilometers ahead of Thembang towards North of Thembang a place called Lungchur. The Chinese army sustained several causalities including their Brigade Commander. Atabu saw the body of the Chinese Brigade Commander carried by four palbearers decorated with white flowers with full Military honour including blowing of bugles. Approximately, five hundred causalities were inflected on the Chinese compared to 22 killed on Indian side. All the dead bodies of the Chinese soldiers were taken to Dirang. The dead bodies of the Indian soldiers were recovered two months after the ceasefire. The 5th Guard had to withdraw due to shortage of guns and ammunition. On top of that, the Chinese outnumbered the Indians. Hence the Chinese captured Thembang on 17th November, 1962. The jeep was moving ahead in a gentle pace. Suddenly Dhan Bahadur stopped at the mile stone of 9KM and informed us that this is the place where the Chinese established a road blocked to cut the line of control between Bomdila and Dirang, the head quarter of Lt. Infantry Division. The Chinese were successful to do so with the help of local guides, whom they have used tactfully. As a result supply of ammunition and ration supply was totally cut off subsequently the Chinese had positioned formidable troops in order to refrain the Indians from clearing the blockade on 16th and 18th November. The vehicle columns carrying Indian troops to clear the blockade were encountered by the enemy at the block point. The shelling of automatic guns destabilized attempt of Indian troops to clear the blockade. The tanks were also deployed but in vain. As such the 4 th Infantry Division had to withdraw to Bomdila without giving any thought to resist the enemy We continued our journey and reached Dirang in the evening. So we decided to stay back in Dirang. Dirang valley is a wide and long valley with natural terraces where local paddy is grown making a schematic beauty of its own manner. It was the Head Quarter of the Fourth infantry Division during Chinese aggression. Major General A.S. Pathania was

holding the charge of the general officer commanding replacing Maj. Gen. Niranjan Parsad after the fall of Tawang on 23rd October 1962. The Chinese conquered the Dirang Dyong without any bloodshed. They were rather received by the locals, those who didnt flee. However half of the villagers had already left the village. On arrival of the Chinese troops a local cultural programme was organized. The Chinese lured the local people by extending their helping hand in day to day lively hood activities as they did initially in Tibet before they ultimately over threw the monasterial regime. They helped the local people to fetch firewood for fuel, in harvesting crops even building dwelling houses to influence the locals in Maoism. They showed the documentary films on revolutionary movement of the Maos people of China. They even hosted community feasts where all the remaining villagers were invited. The Chinese presence resulted in no barking noise of stormy dogs as their heads and skins were found in the river side just next day of the community feast. Dirang is known for its warm hospitality, so, I decided to stay at my school mates home. He is no other than Dorjee Tsering, who himself was a melodious singer and was a great friend of Md. Rafi. Thus he used to sing Rafis songs during school functions and charity shows. On request of Dorjee, we decided to put up in his house which was located amid the village and found it a similar type house we had in Thik-Khong. It was getting dark. We placed our belongings at the corner of their house near the fire place. The flames of the fire were endowing warmness in the room which was a mini hall. There was no one in the room except his sister. While enquiring about his parents, Dorjee replied, they have all gone to Buddha Gaya on a pilgrimage. He then turned to his sister and ordered: Dorma, go and call your friends, all my bosom friends have come. You all should give them a fine Duang -Tsang as per our tradition and culture. Duang -Tsang is a traditional way of welcoming special guests, by garlanding local scarf called Khada accompanied by offering local wine made of Barley, Millet or Maize. It is as strong as Vodka. Receiving the instruction, she immediately ran away to collect all her friends. A little after we finished our supper, we found that eight young girls entered into the house with some local Jugs of Ara and Khada . One of the girls placed a bowl made of china clay and poured Ara into it. She garlanded the Khada on my neck and smiled and said Tashi-Delek and did the same thing to Norbu. I gracefully accepted her honour and thanked her, with this ritual, the Dung Tsang formally began. The girls sang folk lore and danced in a single row making an atmosphere of joy and ecstasy vibrating the wooden floor. The rhythm created out of the uniformly stepping of the footsteps of the young girls on the wooden floor excited me to join them. One of the girls came out of the row and pulled my hands to dance with them. Another girl pulled Norbu too. The spiking dancing process continued till mid-night. I was tired and decided to sit down. When two of the girls

sat on my lap and picked up the bowl full of Ara, the other girl pinched both the ears and forced me to gulp the drinks. I swallowed three bowls and fell back unconscious. Suddenly, I felt some one kissing me. With a great effort I could manage to open my eyes and found a dog licking my mouth. I got up at once, and asked the dog. Why did the Chinese forgive you? The pleasure of cold weather vanishes the very thought of bath. But it makes you very joyful if any hot water spring is around you. Yes, it was there on the way little away from Dirang Helipad. I have not washed my body since a couple of days. Leaving behind Dhan Baahodur in the jeep, Rinchin and I got down at the hot water spring a little downside of the road to Tawang. When we reached the place luckily there was no one in the pond which was surrounded by some oak trees and bushes. Taking advantage of the privacy both of us stripped and took a dip in the pond. What a pleasure it was? The hot water spring cures skin diseases too. In the meantime, we heard some ladies voice. Finding some ladies approaching towards the pond, both of us jumped into the bushes as there was no time to put on the cloths. We had no way out except to hide and seek out. A few young girls appeared unaware of our presence though one of them pointed her finger towards the cloth and said someone has thrown away their cloths. The other one replied, yes, the cloth seems to be very old and worn out. Rather, I prefer to remain as a bushman than to wear those worn out cloths Norbu whispered in my ear. A few minutes later I heard the splashing noise out of the pond. I could not remain without visualizing the scene; I peeped through the bushes and saw the gods own creation with popping out eyes breathlessly. We waited in the bush quietly till the girls disappeared. When we came back to the jeep, Dhan Bahadur was enjoying a sound sleep. I jerked him up saying, Get up, the Chinese have attacked again. (a dialog, which has became popular in every house hold the post war.) Dont joke like this; I cannot run away again at this age said Dhan Bahadur while resuming the further drive. From Dirang we reached Sapper Camp. I bought one bottle of Hercules Rum from a shop, which I presumed would keep us warm in the chilling cold at Sela Pass. The Sapper Camp is known for its famous battle of Nyukmadung on 17th November, 1962. The battle of Nyukmadung was fought by the Sixty Two Infantry Brigade, who was guarding Sela till 16 th November, 1962. After the fall of Tawang this brigade, which was entrusted to hold the defence of Sela, was ordered to withdraw from the post to defend Dirang Dzong. Before the commencement of the withdrawal, the Brigadier Hoshier Singh was ambushed by the Chinese from two flanks, one from the Bhutan side and another from the Luguthang side at Nyukmadung bridge area. The Indian soldiers got puzzled because of the unexpected tactical move of the enemy. In the fierce battle Indians lost more than eight hundred lives and many others wounded. Almost all the officers either got killed or captured.

At Sange-Dzong the engine of our jeep developed a Snag. Our driver Dhan Bahadur started working on the engine. While Norbu and I had a peg of Rum each, the driver said that the engine was fine and we could now continue our journey. On reaching Baishaki the snowfall greeted us. It was snowing very lightly and the cold started biting us. We had to wipe the windshield of the jeep for every few meters manually as the wiper of the vehicle was out of order. After a few Kilometers we found an Army jeep, which had skidded down the slippery road while negotiating a U- turn. As a result the entire convoy of vehicles was stuck up since long time. This reminded me the attack of the Chinese on the vehicle columns near Sapper Camp resulting in many casualties on the Indian side during 1962 Chinese aggression. We had to stop our jeep near the Army jeep and got down. Norbu was wearing a black leather jacket. He went towards to the capsized jeep. Suddenly Norbu slipped and came skidding down right back to our jeep. I walked towards him So you think you are hero. Thank god, you had luckily skidded on the road. Had you skidded a little further, you would shake your hand with Yamraj. We then helped the Army Jawans to pull the Jeep back on the road, and bid farewell to them. As we move onto higher side, the pickup of the jeep was slowing down because it was nothing less than fourteen thousand feet altitude. So at this height the percentage of the oxygen goes down resulting in low conversion of fuel. Similarly, I felt the engine of my body giving similar problem. Obviously I was feeling sick of the height. On the contrary I was not worried for that because I had a tonic which I brought at Sapper camp. I took out the bottle at once and asked Dhan Bahadur to stop the jeep immediately. He stopped at a passing platform where we could have an aerial view of the lower mountains below. What a thrilling site it was just beneath us. I got a fantastic thought that had I been a bird, I would have flown on the top of the clouds floating below. Suddenly some glaring object obstructed my sight and it was nothing but the steel glass. Would you not pour a peg of rum to me? Norbu asked me. Oh I am sorry, I was in different world, I replied. I was shivering out of coldness and also my fingers were numb. So, I took little more time to open the lid of the bottle and poured the rum into his glass. He took a handful of ice and the rum and said This is the only benefit of the snow. I asked Norbu to bottom up the glass and fill something for me too till I go and obey the natures call showing him my little finger on the hill side of the road, carefully lest. So with great difficulty I could open my buttons. Come on! your peg is ready how much ice do you want? An avalanche or a glacier Norbu teased me with a smiling face. This is greatness of the liquor, see you are all smiling amidst such adverse climatic conditions I replied to him. After taking a sip we were again on the move. We are now reaching Sela Pass said Dhan Bahadur. We got excited. We heard a lot about the Sela Pass, its snow, the lake and the great show of bravery by Jaswant Singh and

Captain R.D. Rosario during the Chinese aggression. Now we were here, the scenic beauty of Sela was breathtaking. The lake was surrounded by snow clad mountain peaks. We could also see a pair of Siberian Cranes in the lake. The lake seemed like a Chinese bowl half filled by port wine. This must have been turned to red wine during the war when captain Rossoria of the Forth Battalion of Sikh Light Regiment gunned down several Chinese on 16th November, 1962 when he was ambushed by the enemy and killed. Hawaldar Govind Kamble, the section commander bore the full brunt of the bursting grenades and both his legs were blown off. Undaunted by this, the gallant commander ordered his section to retreat while he himself took possession of the gun to stop the advancing Chinese. He inflicted several causalities on the enemy and his gun continued firing till it was silenced forever. He was awarded Vir Chakra posthumously for his bravery and his sacrifices. After the withdrawal of the Indian troops from Tawang, the Lieutenant of Gharwal Rifles was deployed in Nuranang and Sela to establish a formidable defence at the narrow pass of Sela. Hence a powerful defense was setup to halt the advance of the Chinese Army. The Chinese attempted to penetrate through the narrow passage but without any success. Hence Chinese disguised in Monpa dress tried to penetrate the defense of the Indian army. But this attempt was once again foiled by platoon commander Jem Pratap Singh. This was followed by waves of attacks at the front and the left defence. The Chinese were successfully defended and were forced to withdraw. Subsequently Chinese started shelling medium light machine guns. This retaliation could not give any impact on the enemy, since they were comparatively stronger and well equipped. Ultimately three of the Indian soldiers namely Trilok Singh, Jaswant Singh and Gopal Singh volunteered to silence the Chinese Medium Machine gun which was creating havoc for the Indian troops. They decided to get as close as possible to the MMG and snatch it physically if required. These three brave soldiers armed with grenades for their own self-defense, crawled ahead, Trilok Singh provided cover fire to Jaswant and his comrade with his stand gun. When Jaswant came as close as possible to the MMG then he started up and went to the post. At the enemies post he came across some Chinese still holding their breath fully armed. He killed them and holding the MMG and rushed back to the Indian post. But when he reached the Indian post with the MMG he was hit by a bullet on his head. So Gopal Singh who himself was badly injured dragged Jaswant and the MMG to the Indian post. It is said that this whole incident took only fifteen minutes but these fifteen minutes of bravery changed the entire scenario of the battle. In absence of the MMG with the enemy the Indians could hit back the enemy with Indians LMG. The myth of the invincible Chinese was shattered. The Indian Defense was now successfully holding its post and thwarting any attempt of the

Chinese to advance any further. In this battle approximately three hundred Chinese were shot to death and eight were wounded compared to two Indian soldiers killed. Dhan Bahadur narrated this story to us. During the period of war he used to drive an army one tonner. Traveling a little distance we came across the cemetery of Jaswant Singh. We stopped our jeep and got down to have a glance of Jaswant bunker. It was covered with CGI sheets. Entering into the bunker we found a bed covered with a white bed sheet. There were coins lying here and there. The room was filled by the aroma of the burning incense sticks, which the visitors had burned. I also took out some coins from my pocket and placed it on the bed, and paid my homage to the photograph of Jaswant Singh placed on the bed with flowers. Inside my mind, I was realizing that this is the hero who vanquished the enemy single handed; probably he should be one of the soldiers whom I mate during our escape to Assam during Chinese invasion. We further resumed our journey towards Tawang. It was already dusk by that time. So after traveling some distance we reached Jang. We dropped at the house of Namge Tsering, the Gaon Bura of Jang village and we decided to stay in his house over night as it was already dark and the head light of the Jeep was not in order. He was a fine gentleman. He gave us the best hospitality during our stay. Taking this advantage I requested him to narrate some memories of the China war. He stated that the original name of the village is Jang Yutha Nbu. He was sixteen years old during the Chinese aggression. He came to know that the Chinese reached Tawang. There was a big store of Border Road Task Force at Khirmu which was gutted in fire. That time the villagers of Jang were harvesting Millet in their respective agricultural fields. All the farmers left their fields and came back home and they prepared to escape sensing the danger of war the same night. The villagers resorted to the jungles in the caves along with all the belongings. They could only carry the food grains since they had to carry their elderly persons and kids, those who were unable to walk. One lama named Pem Tsering was hit by the bullet on the head. One of his eyes was injured badly. They could see the shelling of mortar and grenade bullets. The Chinese were positioned at Jumba Che across the river Tawang Tsu. The Assam Rifles posted in Jang retaliated to give resistance to shelling of mortars. The Chinese were not seen in the daylight as they dug individual trenches for which they would carry small crowbar and shovel. They never cooked to avoid smoke. While the Indians, carry their ration commodities and utensils, on their back during the war, the Chinese have a peculiar way of carrying five fried commodities, like fried barley, soyabean, chilli powder, salt and wheat flour, in a tube

of cloth worn diagonally across the body, mainly to reduce the weight of carrying and avoid cooking process. During their journey they would directly eat this mixed flour recipe, whenever they are hungry. In the night only they would come out of the trench in a platoon consisting of 20 soldiers. A Tibetan guide was attached who would guide them and play the role of interpreter. Finding the Chinese advancing to Jang, the Indian army engineers blew up the bridge 4, which was the only Motarable Bridge over Tawang Tsu connecting Jang with Tawang. As a result many Indian soldiers got trapped on the other side, those who were either captured or got killed. Later on the Chinese re-constructed this bridge with the help of the stones, demolishing a long Buddhist mane which was 100 mtrs long Monument located on right bank of Tawang Tsu at the original site. They threw all the items into the river as they had sufficient man power there by, making it motorable once again. The Chinese cut all the communication cables to disrupt the telecommunication between the Indian troops. They crossed the river and made individual trenches in the nearby jungles of Jang, Yuthem Bu and Kharsu villages. The fugitives crossed Sela and reached Kalaktang via Sela Dirang, Morshing after 10 days of tedious journey. When the villagers, came back to Jang, they found nothing in their houses. After the war was over, they found several dogs eating the dead bodies of Assam Rifles and Army infantry. The entire area was stinking for 3 to 4 months. Next morning we started for Tawang. When we reached bridge 4 we found the bridge was under renovation. We were stranded for four hours at bridge 4. A little distance downstream, Dhan Bahadur saw some butchery. He immediately took out his carry bags and ran down to get a few kilograms of Pork which the Nepalies relish too much. Within no time he rushed back to the jeep gasping in shock and informed us that those persons were chopping human flesh. At once I could make out that someone has died and these people would be offering hundred and eight pieces of flesh to the fishes. It is the belief of the Monpas that the deceased attain the heavenly kingdom, when such an act as above is performed. Finally, the bridge got renovated and we could cross the only motorable bridge over Tawang Tsu to reach Tawang. We reached Tawang late at night. We headed straight to the house of Kunga, a classmate of mine. He greeted us with warm salt tea. The warmth of the fire place was a great relief. After taking our dinner I went into a deep slumber. Suddenly I felt like somebody was jerking me. I opened my eyes to find Kunga standing besides my cot with the cup of warm salt tea. He said wake up, Abudok, have this tea. Go outside and have a view of Tawang. You will like this paradise. This was my first visit to Tawang and I had heard a lot of tales about its beauty. I woke up, went out holding the cup of tea.

The sight outside made me speechless. The sun rays were falling on the snow clad mountains looking like petals. Its reflection from the snow had created a view of mixed colours. It seemed as if the mountain peaks were painted in different colours. The Tawang Monastery stood majestically on a hillock looked like another. The reflection of sunrays on the golden roofs and the White walls of the stone houses and the boundary wall looked like a ship in the ocean on high tide. This is one of the largest centres for Buddhist learning. The surrounding of the monastery was lush green with trees. This place is chosen by Mera Lama Lodoe Gyatso, a learned Buddhist monk, who commissioned and built this monastery in 1682 A.D. Legends say that while on his quest for nirvana Mera Lama went to many places to select an ideal location for a Gompa (Buddhist Temple). Once he came here, since it was dark he decided to halt. At night, in his dream he saw that a white horse digging this particular hillock with its hooves. The white horse ultimately dug a pond on the hillock. When he woke up he prayed and contemplated upon this divine sign and decided to build a shrine.. So he constructed the monastery, Genden Namgyal Latso and named this place as Tawang. Ta-means horse and Wang means blessing. Kunga, my classmate and guide took us to the monastery. Approaching the monastery we first came across a Dungjyor a temple of biff prayer wheels rotated by the hydro power force of the flowing water. We found some Army Jawans taking bath in this chilling water. It made me shiver from top to bottom. Yes the Jawans were now well acclimatized to this kind of climate and they could withstand the cold. Opposite of the Dungjyor, was the Kakaling, the entrance gate. The doors of the Kakaling were very huge, made out of wood, which was more than 6 inches thick. The door was beautifully decorated with murals made out of copper. We climbed a series of stone footsteps from the Kakaling to the main compound of the monastery. In the centre stood the religious flag hoisted on a huge tall wooden pole with a girth of approximately 3 meters and 20 meters in height. I wondered how could such a huge pole be brought and erected here. I realized that the people of Tawang are very religious and hard working. How many people might have come together to just bring this pole from the jungle. We entered the main monastery. The aroma of the Petant (a local incense stick) welcomed us. The room was lit with many butter lamps burnt by the monks and devotees who had visited this monastery early in the morning. A lama gave me a Petang to light a butter lamp. I lit the butter lamp and prayed. As I stood up, I could see the large statue of Lord Buddha staring at us. It was a very tall statue. I could hardly see its eyes. So we went to the second floor of the monastery to have a better look at the statue. On reaching the second floor, I could now see the Head of the statue. It was so gigantic that I stood back to have a complete view of it. While doing so I nearly fell down from the balcony. Everyone in the room burst out laughing.

The rest of the day was spent visiting other places of interest in Tawang. We also visited Urgyeling Monastery, the birth place of the 6th Dalai Lama Reverend Tsang Yang Gyatso. We could see the various marks that he had left in and around the monastery during his childhood. It is said that the 6th Dalai Lama was a very good poet and lyricist. I was eager to meet one of my friends Chewang Dondup, who studied with me. He was staying at Urgyling village. Kunga took us to Dondups house. The approach towards his house was very narrow and the jeep was moving very slowly. Most of the houses in Urgyling were typical Non-stone houses. Kunga led me to Dondups house. We went inside and Kunga shouted Chewang La. Oi, who is this a voice came from the next room. Soon Dondup emerged from the room. We were very delighted to meet each other. Dondup was very fond of football and I noticed that he was wearing football shoes on that day also. What brings you here? Chewang asked. I wanted to see the battle field and the war Memorials of 1962. I replied then go and meet Tashi Khandu. He is the best man who can help you; Chewang then took us to the house of Tashi Khandu. After moving a few kilometers ahead, we reached the home of Tashi Khandu at Kitpi, he was staying in a local house. Kunga knocked the door. His servant opened the door and asked us to sit inside the sitting room. The sitting room was cozy and decorated with local architecture. The servant went inside. After a few minutes a tall man with a white woolen cap appeared before us. Kunga stood up and said Tashi DeleK with his folded hands. I also stood up involuntarily with folding hand and said Tashi Delek. The tall man shook his hand and indicated towards the chairs and asked us to sit down. What brings you to my house? He asked. This is Dorjee Khandu from Rupa, he is my friend and he wants to know about the Chinese aggression from you, because he wants to write a book on it. Kunga replied. Hearing it Tashi Khandu smiled and said earlier also some Army officer came to me and took away some details about the war. Okay, since you are eager to know about the war I will try to recall my old memories and try to highlight. Apa Taashi Khandu narrated the whole story to me .He said I was in the jungle when the Chinese intruded. I was in yak grazing field known as Nahyab located 20 kms down of Bumla Pass. I heard the sound of gunfire in the early morning and ran back to my home located at Kitpi. While coming back, I saw some Indian troops in Geshela. They signaled me to move down fast. On the way I met some local villagers who were getting ready to flee because the war had started. I also met a Tibetan fellow dragging a bull by the rope. Probably he was also fleeing towards Tawang. I asked him about the intrusion of the Chinese solders. He informed me that the Chinese have not yet captured Tawang but by now Bumla might have been captured. When I came back home I found no one in the house. Understanding that my parents might have left through Chakjam bridge over Tawang Tsu. I came across a person and enquired about my parents. He informed me that he met them

before the bridge point. Ultimately I joined them at the same point. They had decided to halt there, accordingly the meal was prepared. In the meantime some of them suggested that they should cross over the bridge, otherwise the Chinese could destroy the bridge, and they may be trapped on that side. So at last we were bound to cross the bridge overnight. And halt at a place called Rhanga Teng down side of Mukto. While crossing the bridge at night, one of them fell down into the river but somehow he was rescued by a fellow villager. I saw thousands of fugitives fleeing in the darkness. After halting two nights we again proceeded further towards Mukto and halted at Langa Teng beyond Mukto for two weeks. The Chinese captured Tawang after four days. The truckers coming from the Kalaktang side informed us that the Indian troops are harassing the fugitives on the way to Assam. So, the people are confused whether they should opt the route through Bhutan. However I decided to go back to Kitpi to know whereabout of my belongings and livestock which were left behind. I was surprised when I saw the Chinese soldiers at Chakjam Bridge. Soon I decided to run back to join my parents. On the way, I saw a couple bearing two kids of 3 and 4 years of age quarreling with each other. Husband was insisting to stay back on the plea that he was unable to walk further, carrying the elder kid on the back. But the wife was insisting to proceed further along with the younger kid. Finally they decided to get separated: I convinced the couple to stay back in Mukto or they should join my parents and flee to Assam via Bhutan as the Indian troops are harassing the fugitives. He finally returned to his home at Kitpi. He saw two Chinese soldiers in his village. He immediately made his mind to escape, in the meantime Lamta a native of his village asked him to talk to Chinese. He told him that one of the soldiers could speak Tibetan fluently. So he went upto him. The Chinese enquired him as to why he was scared of the Chinese. He replied that the Chinese do atrocities. But the Chinese replied that we were of the same race and our features resembled. The Indians have big eyes and long nose; he also asked what makes you to be an Indian? Tashi replied again the Indian Govt help us in many spheres likes whenever fire accident, takes place in the village, the Indian Government extends necessary relief. The Govt. also provides us education and medicinal facilities and, on top of that we have freedom of speech. After staying two weeks in Langaten, some villagers alongwith Tashis parents came back to Kitpi. Further they decided to stay on till the war is over. Nine Chinese soldiers came to his village and stayed in the house of relatives of the sixth Dalai Lama.One day he was called upon by one of the Chinese, the Chinese enquired him about the official documents of the 6th Dalai Lama known as Leadhau. Also the Chinese ordered him to sing a song written by the 6th Dalai Lama. He refused to sing on the pretext that he had not yet heard the song. Again the Chinese scolded him that your ancestors did not teach you the song. Tashi replied that the 6th Dalai Lama was born many centuries ago so how he could

sing his songs. The Chinese also asked him to call back the fellow villagers on the plea that they would rather render them all sorts of assistance. All the people those who left for Assam faced a lot of problem during their stay in Assam though the Govt. provided some relief materials in the form of ration and cloths. As all the fugitives left the village before harvesting, when they were back home their crops were damaged by the cattle. As a result when they came back to their respective villages, they were left without food grains. One villager received the Indian Prisoner of War, who was hungry. He offered him food. In the wake of war, the local people helped the Indian troops by carrying the ration commodities and ammunition to various posts. In the process some of the local villagers got killed in the cross firing by the Chinese army. The villagers also provided Monpa dress to the Indian solders while they were escaping from the battle. To know about the Chinese activities in Tibet, his father sent a Tibetan friend to Tsona in the Southern province of Tibet. He was caught by the Chinese soldiers. Later on he managed to escape from the captivity of the Chinese. I heard about the bravery of Subedar Jogendra Singh in the battle field of Bumla. A curiosity developed in my mind to see the battle field of Bumla. Next morning we took off our further journey to Bumla. The road was narrow and icy. Kunga told me that the length of the road from Bumla to Tawang is Forty Kilometers and the Chinese took only seven days to lay the complete road. While travelling on this road, I came across a number of beautiful lakes.And at a place called Pangkatang Tso the most memorable moment of the journey was when I saw the foot print of His Holiness Tsang Yang Gyatso. The foot was harbored on a rock when he was proceeding to Lhasa at the age of Twelve years for coronation as sixth Dalai Lama. After a tedious journey of about three hours, we reached Bumla. Bumla is an army post located on McMahon Line. Indias boundary with Tibet had never been determined. Geographical principle of water shed is used in most places in the crest of the greater Himalayan range to determine the boundary. From 1913 to 1914, Captain Bailey carried out extensive survey in the area to determine the line separating the territorial jurisdiction of Southern Tibet and of the British Indian Government. The Northern part is known as North Eastern Frontier track. The border thus determined was formalized at a tripartite conference held in Simla in 1914, where the representatives of Tibet and China attended and Indian Government was represented by Henry McMahon, the then foreign secretary of the British Indian Government. In the conference it was resolved that the name of the Indo Tibetan boundary would be McMahon Line, after the name of Henry Mc Mahon. Understanding that

there is difficult terrain of the Himalayan range prevailing and harsh accompanied by nonavailability of accessible tracks along the boundaries for physical survey and harsh climatic condition of the Himalayan range, It was agreed in principle that boundary would be determined on the basis of geographical principle of water shed that is, area where the river flows south to north would be Tibet and simultaneously the river flowing North to South would be Indian Territory. Initially Indian Government presumed that since the Sela river stream flows from the South to North. Hence, Tawang was a part of Tibet. Later when survey of India learnt the same that it flows back to India via Bhutan in the downstream, finally Tawang was included in India in the year 1950 by establishing an Indian administrative post appointing Major R. Khating as Assistant Political officer of Tawang. But unfortunately China is claiming Tawang as their territory without any valid reason. Also China is claiming not only Tawang but also the entire North East frontier agency as part of China on the basis of traditional boundaries. In fact this region was never a part of Tibet or India. Geographically this part can be divided into three regions, western region, middle region and eastern region. The western most region which is known as Mon Tso, has a monasterial system of Governance. The middle son of a family has to opt mandatorily the life of a Monk in the monastery. Therefore the middle son could not claim any property in the family in olden days. Since more or less every household had a representative to a monastery, hence, a kind of fee in the form of Khray had to be paid to monasterial authority. Otherwise each village has its own independent democratic setup known as the village council as per the customary law. The middle region is predominantly inhabited by the off springs of the Abo-Tani, the great ancestral father. They also had a democratic system of governance from time immemorial functioning independently. The Eastern region had a traditionally chieftain system of administration governed by the tribal chiefs of the locality independently or collectively. These facts were well known to the Tibetan Government. So in the Simla convention held in 1940, Latsen Shutra, the representative of the Tibet Government raised no objection while determining the McMahon Line on the basis of water shed. Reaching Bumla we could see the Chinese camps on the other side. We were told that the regular flag meetings between the Chinese and the Indian army officers are held here. Across the border we could see a huge hoarding of Mao Zedong, the chairman of the communist party of China. Through the Binocular, his big mole on the Chin could be seen in Crystal clarity. The Chinese believed that if the mole touches his mouth, the entire world would be under him. Thank God, the mole was inches away from the mouth. Basically he was a good person by heart. He was revolutionary. He liberated China from autocratic regime of Ching Kaishek, the last emperor of China. But unfortunately the Tibetans were not that lucky. Initially he had good terms with Jawaharlal Nehru, the first prime Minster of

independent India, as both of them were contemporary freedom fighters. Infact Nehru was the first prime Minster of a nation to recognize the Peoples Republic of Chin a in the year 1948. Similarly, Mao Zedong had sympathy on India as it was under the miss rule of the British Empire for more than two centuries. To maintain good relationship between two giants of Asia, a treaty was signed between these two countries basing on the five principles of peaceful coexistence, known as the Panch Sheel. Panch means five and Sheel means rock in Sanskrit. It was basically five point agreement signed between India and China on 29th April 1954 in Peking. The agreement was as follows: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Mutual respect to each others territorial integrity and sovereignty. Mutual non aggression. Mutual noninterference in internal affairs of each others. Equality and mutual co-operation. Peaceful co-existence.

The rift between these two personalities cropped up when India granted an asylum to His Holiness, the 14th Dalai Lama, in 1959 while escaping from Tibet during the turmoil. More so, it added fuel to the fire when Nikita Khurush Chev, the premier of Soviet Union of Russia, John F Kennedy the president of United States of America and Jawaharlal Nehru together upbraided Mao Zedong in a meeting on Tibet issue. This led Mao to conceive that Soviet Union, United States and India had an expansionist design in Tibet. At Bumla, I was reminded of one of the bravest Indian soldiers who had laid his life here Subedar Joginder Singh of the 1st Battalion of Sikh Regiment. On the McMahon Line at Bumla the battalion of Assam Rifles was positioned, in the same vicinity at a distance of 550 meters. A post of 11 platoon of 1 Sikh Regiment was positioned on a peak of 4340 meters height. The Bumla traditional track to Tibet passes skirting the twin peaks. There is an inspection bungalow aside the track and therefore this ridge is known as 113th ridge. On 20th October, one junior commission officer of Assam Rifles noticed about thousand Tibetan laborers with digging tools and guarded by Chinese soldiers beyond the Mc Mahon Line through his binoculars. Realizing the danger, the JCO approached the commander of the 11th platoon of Sikh regiment and sought reinforcement. Accordingly Haveldar Sucha Singh was deputed with some soldiers to assist the Assam regiment. Simultaneously the commander further sought additional ammunition from its company head quarters situated at Tongpen-La. After three days the Chinese started firing with mortar and anti tank guns on Indian bunkers with an aim to destroy them. Although the soldiers were very few in Assam Rifles regiment, Havaldar Sucha Singh fought along

with them bravely against a multitude of six hundred Chinese soldiers inflicting heavy causalities on enemy. Though the Assam Rifles were overrun by the enemy, the brave Sucha Singh withdrew from the scene and joined his parent 11th Platoon at IB ridge. Advancing further, after their initial success of over running Assam Riffles, the Chinese started attacking the 11 platoon with an aim to conquer the twin peaks. Geographically, the Indians were on a cliff which was very steep, hence the 11 platoon inflicted heavy causalities on enemy compelling them to retreat several times. Ultimately the Chinese planned to cut the line of communication route for supply of ammunition to 11 Platoon. The stock of ammunition of the Platoon depleted miserably and the Chinese over ran the 11 platoon. The platoon commander Subedar Jogender Singh asked for more ammunition from company head quarter but he was asked to withdraw to company head quarter. Despite the letter from his headquarters to withdraw, Sub Jogender Singh replied that the enemy would not be allowed to get through the IB Ridge to the twin peaks. In the fighting Sub Jogender Singh was badly wounded and made a prisoner. He died because of his wounds in enemys custody. He was awarded Param Vir Chakra posthumously for his bravery. We did not spend much time at Bumla since we were to cover last leg journey to Jimithang via Sangeswar lake and Tak-tsang Gompa. Taking some curves down the hills, we reached the lake. The lake was as big as Sela lake but its uniqueness is because of some conifer trees standing in the middle of the lake which is a rarity that can be seen on the Canvas of a painter, unbelievable but worth seeing. Going a little further comes the Tak Tsang gompa. Tak means Tiger and Tsang means Nest believed to be a centre of meditation. On the cliff and rocky mountain above the Gompa there is a cave where saint Lopon Rimpochi, the Guru Padma Shambhaba, the religious leader who propagated Buddhism in Tibet and Mon region in ninth century during the reign of King Thrisong Detsen the 37th king of Tibet and Mon region who meditated for wellbeing of the human beings. He was a scholar from Vikram Shila, one of the three Buddish ancient universities. The Gompa though small in size is surrounded by wooden prayer wheels wrapped by the animal skins. I was one of the luckiest persons to take the holy Darshan of the Gompa in the extreme border where a devotee rarely visits. The road was very narrow, therefore, I cautioned the driver to drive cautiously, though Dhan Bahadur was a reliable driver. Hardly there were any inhabitants except a few grazing lands filled with ground orchids which made a yellowish surrounding. As we approached nearer to Jimithang, we could see a number of waterfalls which looked as if someone hanged white garlands on the green mountains. When I looked below at the Namjang Chu river valley, I saw a huge stupa on the right bank of the river.` Is this the Gorjam Tsorten? I asked Kunga, yes it is; Gor means Stone and jam means Bridge there is a

stone bridge over the stream which flows near this Stupa. Therefore, the place is known as Gorjam. He replied immediately `this Tsorten was built by Lama Prathar. Pra means Monkey and Thar means release. It is said that When Lama Prathar was a baby of three months old his parents were tilling a land keeping Prathar in a corner of the agriculture field. Suddenly a herd of monkeys came and took away the baby on to the top of a tree. The tree was big and tall, therefore, it was not possible for the parents to climb up and recover the baby from the monkeys. Hence, they prayed to the monkeys. One of the monkeys came down with the baby and restored the baby back to the parents. Hence the name of the baby was given as Prathar. Seeing this miracle the parents decided to send the child to a monastery for study. Later on that child became the renowned monk and built this Tsorten which is a replica of the Bouddha Stupa of Katmandu, the capital of Nepal. It is said that he took the model of this Tsorten carving on a radish. While coming back from Katmandu on foot, the model shrunk. That is why this Tsorten is smaller in size, otherwise it would have been as big as Bouddha. Suddenly I was inquisitive to know from Kunga as to what is Bouddha stupa and asked Kunga. Then Kunga narrated me the importance of Bouddha stupa. It is said that in the ancient times a humble lady of Katmandu had great veneration for Lord Buddha and wanted to construct a monumental relic for the people to worship Buddha when the actual installation of the idol of Buddha was banned as per religious injunction. This humble lady approached the king of Nepal and requested him for a piece of land. The king asked the lady as to how much area of land is required. Then the clever lady replied to the king nothing but the size of the skin of a Buffalo. The king assuming that the ladys demand could be easily met, he gave his assent for the proposal. The clever lady converted the skin of the buffalo into a large leather rope and occupied a large land and started constructing the idol of Buddha of large diameter. When reports reached the king that the lady occupied a large piece of land the king went to see the land. The king asked the lady that she told all she wanted was a piece of land of the size of the skin of a buffalo. Then the lady said that she is obedient to the king and the leather rope was made from the skin of a buffalo only. The king regretted his folly and said that a word given by a king cannot be taken back and let the lady construct the monument. It would take fifteen minutes a person to circumambulate this structure. It stands to be one of the largest Buddhist structures of the world. Now I was completely enlightened of the subject by Kunga. Plying on hair pin curves, the jeep finally landed at Jimithang means a flat land of sand , as per Kunga. I decided to stay in the house of Tsethear, who was our school mate. He was really happy finding us in his house. What a surprise presence he exclaimed are you going to Tibet? he cracked the joke on us. Since, I was eager to know about the war, I requested him to get me a person who knows about the beginning of the war and if

possible the root cause of the conflict. Since, it was already dark, he assured me to bring Meme Wangchu who according to him was a knowledgeable person and who also witnessed the war. We took meal with Tsethar and retired to bed soon as we were tired of a long journey. Next morning, Tsethar came along with Meme Wangchu. He was wearing a Pangchenpa hat. We greeted him and requested him to sit down on the bed of Tsethar. We sat down beside him to listen the story. He started the story of the war taking a deep breath. There is a lot of speculation about the root cause of the Chinese aggression in 1962. Some opine, it is because of the Indian Governments extension of political asylum to his Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama who escaped from Tibet due to annexation by the peoples liberation army of China in 50s, which is not true. In fact the war started because of land entitlement between two villages namely Leei and Lumpo. Both the villagers are separated by a river called Namkha Chu a tributary of the Namjang Chu. Leei village is located in Tibet and the Lumpo village is located in India either side of the McMahon line. The inhabitants of these villages are the Pangchenpa a sub tribe of the Tawnag Monpa. Before drawing of the McMahon lines they had a matrimonial relationship. There lived a yak grazer in leei village named Apa Leike Khandu who owned a huge area of grazing land in Namkha Chu valley in Dhola Pass, Thagla rich, Sengjong and Sangle. He had number of yaks. In course of time due to break out of a viral disease, his yaks started dying one by one and finally he had none. Subsequently he decided to donate his grazing land to the Tawang monastery. As those were located far from the Tawang, the monastery authority decided to pass on the land to the grazers of Lumpo village. In return the monastery authority used to levy cheering from the grazers of the Lumpo village as per the prevailing customary system. Over a period of time the successor of Apa Leike Khandu decided to reclaim the grazing lands which were earlier owned by their father. Hence, they prayed to Chinese Government to reacquire the lands from the Monastery, as those grazing lands were located in the main land of Tibet beyond McMahon line. In the mean time the Indian army had already established a military camp in the grazing land in Dhola area. On receipt of the request from the Apa Leike Khandu successors, the high officials of the Chinese army planned a war strategy to attack India. Accordingly, in the month of August, 1962, the Chinese troops captured Thagla ridge. Subsequently, on 8th September the Chinese encircled the Indian post, at Dhola. They carried out perpetual firing on Indian post from 20th September onwards. Getting information of the enemys presence in Dhola area, a high level meeting was convened on 9th September, which was attended by the Minister of Defence, V.K. Krishna Menon, the chief of the Army staff, General P.N.Thapar, General Officer Commanding in Chief, Eastern Command Lieutent General L.P.Sen, Cabinet Secretary S.S.Khera, Joint Secretary in Defence

Ministry H.C.Sarin, and a few others including Director Intelligence Bureau B.N.Mullick. In the meeting it was decided that the Chinese should be evicted from the Dhola Area. Accordingly General Thapar ordered the Eastern Command to carry out the task through 33 corps, Shillong and infantry division immediately. The 9th battalion of the Punjab Regiment was ordered to launch the operation which was to be duly supported by the 7th Brigade. The Brigade Commander John Dalvi prepared a modest plan to evict Chinese from Tseng-Dzong, on advice of Major General Niranjan Prasad who was the General Officer Commanding of 4th Infantry division, Dirang during that time. The plan of Brig. Dalvi was duly approved by the Lt. General Umrao Singh, the General Officer Commanding, 33 Corps, Shillong after a little modification. This plan was further submitted to the G.O.C in Chief Eastern Command Lt Gen. L.P.Sen, who eventually rejected the plan during his visit to Lumpo, the HQ of 7th Infantry Brigade. The draft plan was revised with some alteration, the corps commander Lt. Gen Umrao Singh resubmitted the plan to Lt Gen L.P.Sen at Lucknow, the then Head Quarter of Easter Command on 29th September who unfortunately refused to accept the plan on the plea that the plan cannot be implemented before the winter set in. Hence Umrao Singhs view and assessment of the situation was rejected once again because there were personal differences between these two senior army officers. Later on the responsibility of North East Frontier Agency was transferred to newly raised 4th Infantry Corps at Tezpur relinquishing 33 Infantry Corps and Lt. Gen. B.N.Kaul was appointed as the Commander of the 4 corps. Lt. Gen. Kaul had no meritorious career in the past. He got a rapid promotion as he was a Kashmiri Pandit. For the sake of accommodating him the 4 Infantry was created but being a new comer, he had less knowledge about the NE Frontier. The withdrawal of the Indian troops from Dhola area was unavoidable. Brig. Dolvi was against the concentration of troops in that area. Dhola area according to him was unsuitable as forming up place for maintaining any major action against the Chinese since the enemy had three tiers of defensive position. First was on the river opposite the Indian troops the second half way upto the Thangla slopes on Paitsai and the third on the crest of the Ridge. So any frontal attack by the Indian Army would have been suicidal. It was also militarily indefensible as it was dominated by the enemys positions. It had poor approaches, no fields of fire and no mutual support. Thus Brigadier Dolvi was not in favour concentrating the troops in the area. Hence, the cold war in the top brass adversely affected the actual war on the ground as there was serious lack of coordination between the Army establishments from top to bottom. In the process of the eviction of enemy from Dhola area first battle started on 10th October, 1962. When the Chinese retaliated, three Indian troops were put in action at Tsering Jong on Thagla ridge. The company commander Major Choudhury of Punjab

regiment had to resist the post along with his limited armed force. More than 800 Chinese attacked them from two different directions in large number one from the East and other from the north. The exchange firing lasted 45 minutes. Maj M.S.Choudhury requested his Battalion Commander Lt. Col. R.N. Mishra on wireless to reinforce him from the nearest post of bridge on Namkha Chhu river. But when Lt. Col Mishra sought permission from Brig. Dalvi, the request was turned down by the later on the plea that the Battalion of 2 nd Rajput would be supporting the company very soon. By the time the Rajputs reached, the Chinese had already over ran the Indian position. However in this operation the Chinese sustained more casualties with 77 deaths and 100 wounded as compared to 6 deaths and 11 wounded Indians including Maj Choudhury, Riffle man Kanshi Ram, who over powered a Chinese and managed to snatch an automatic Chinese riffle. He and Naik Chain Singh were later awarded the Maha Vir Chakra. With the capture of Tsang Jong the mighty Chinese continued with their slaughter at Namkha Chu Valley. Accordingly on 19th August the Chinese captured Thagla Ridge and further on 8th September, they encircled the Indian Post at Dhola. After the incident of 10th October, a high level meeting was convened about the transfer of the ownership of the grazing land situated across the border at Dhola area, under the Chairmanship of Prime Minister Pandit Jawaharlal Neheru in New Delhi where the Defence Minister and the top Bureaucrats and Army Generals and director intelligence Mullick attended. Indian government had decided to establish new posts at Dhola on the grazing land of Apa Lei Khandu on the suggestion of Intelligence Bureau Director N.B Mullik who was a trusted man of Prime Minister Nehru in the year 1961, which eventually could not be digested by the Chinese Primer Zhou En Lai. Moreover, Mullik misled the high command in various angles. One of which was that the Chinese Army was poorly equipped with guns, only one weapon against a dozen soldiers. Secondly, the Chinese were cowards, they would flee away on the event of a single fire at him. But the people who fled were only the Tibetens, who wanted to cross over to this part on account of the Chinese atrocities in Tibet. Of course Director Mullick cannot be blamed solely. It was the fault on the part of the Intelligence Bureau observers in the war front who had been feeding wrong inputs again and again, which ultimately, led New Delhi to make a wrong assessment of the strength of the enemy. In the meeting it was decided to defend the remaining posts instead of undertaking the eviction of Chinese from the Dhola area. But on the other hand the Chinese kept intruding inside Indian Territory. On 28th October the Chinese attacked the Rajputs position at Namkha Chu valley south of Mc Mohon line, the 2nd Battalion of Rajputs suffered most while they were preparing for the morning stand to routine practice in adopting defensive position in battle order. When they were caught between the frontal fire of the Chinese

guns and the attack from the rear, the Rajputs were widely dispersed. Every one fought ones own battle. Receiving attacks wave after wave the Rajputs were wiped out in toto. In the attack more than 282 Rajputs lost their lives including all the company commanders except Maj Gurdial Singh. After most of the posts had been over-run by the enemy, Maj Gurdial Singh rallied the remnants and led them in a final charge. Maj Singh was over powered and captured by the enemy. He was awarded the Maha Vir Chakra in prison. On the same day the Chinese again lunched a three pronged attack from three directions on 5th Assam Riffles at Kencha Mani post. The Assam Riffles gallantly fought back and gave resistance for 4 to5 hours. Inspite of repeated request from the commanding officer Lt. Col Rattan Singh, the Assam Rifles did not get logistic support from the Brigade Headquarter. Thus the battalion could not withstand further against the enemys superiority in the fire power and the numbers. As a result they were completely vanquished by the Chinese. The Riffle man Bishan Singh displayed courage and kept on firing against heavy odds. He inflicted heavy causalities on the enemy. Realizing their inability to dislodge Bishan Singh the enemy fired a rocket at him. He suffered injuries on hands and waist by the fire of the rocket. Inspite of injuries this brave soldier did not give up his fighting. He came out of his bunker and entered into another LMG bunker. When his ammunition was finished he managed to escape from Kencha Moni towards Zimithang. For this act of bravery Refileman Bishan Singh was awarded Sena Medal. Simultaneously, Chinese started Chilling Tsangdur post right from early morning they attacked the Indian positions from the west with great strength. It was captured by the Chinese quickly as they attacked with a large force of one thousand five hundred solders. However isolated pockets kept on offering resistance till dusk. When the Brigade Commander Dolvi came to know about the capture Tsangdur by the Chinese, he along with his party headed for Sirkhim area through Dhola pass. Next day when they reached Sirkhim they were captured by the enemy on 21st October. The Chinese marched forward and captured Zimithang in the night of 22nd-23rd October and captured Lumphu on 23rd October. They captured all the Indian defence posts. In the war almost all the company commanders got killed and Lt Col B.S.Ahluwalia, Commander 1/9 Ghorkha Regiment was wounded and taken as prisoner on 21st October. The Brigade commander Brig. Dalvi and his party,who ran straight into the Chinese near Sirkhim were taken as prisoners by the Chinese. On 24th October the Chinese Government declared a unilateral cease fire temporarily and the Chinese Premier Zhau En Lai sent a letter to the Prime Minister of India to review the Panch Sheel agreement. But Nehru turned down the offer before receiving the letter. In fact, Nehru was anticipating military assistance from the USA and Soviet Union which unfortunately never came. Since, both the countries were preoccupied in Cuban Missile crisis.

In the wake of the war which suddenly started in Zemethang area, the villagers of Soktsen, Lumpo and Kharmang had hardly any breathing time and the enemy was at their heels. Some of the couples in these villages committed suicide along with their kids in Namjang Chu River and some of them were drowned in the river, which flows from Tibet to Bhutan via Zumethang. Of the few, who survived the bullet fire, took nearly one month to reach the refugee camps, set up in Assam. As they lost all their belongings, the villagers had to beg and survive starvation and some of the stronger ones took to daily labour and managed to move with their paltry savings to reach the refugee camps. The basic objective of the Indian Army was to evict out the Chinese from the Thagla and Dhola area, contrary to their expectation, the Chinese over threw the Indians by pronging an offensive. Seven Brigade was crushed in 12 days due to wrong strategy of the Indian Army. The Indian Army underestimated the enemys strength and only a handful of troops were deployed against two divisions of Chinese. Moreover, the Chinese were more equipped with Mortars, fire arms and ammunitions. Due to lack of strategic plan the entire Brigade of the Indian Army disintegrated within just few days. The Chinese declared a unilateral cease fire which marked an end of the Indo Chinese war. The peoples Liberation Army rolled back their forces to the original posts of their own territory. So no country gained an inch of others soil. Though the Chinese won the war the ultimate loss was the lives of human beings of both countries. Some parents have lost their beloved sons, when some wives have lost their husbands, some children have lost their fathers; some sisters have lost their brothers. Everyone had definitely lost their dear ones. Thus the war brought misery to everyone irrespective of caste, creed, region or religion. In my opinion India and China should have undertaken an agreement so called Panch Sheel on the basis of the five principles of Buddhism viz., 1. No killing 2. No stealing 3. No sexual misconduct 4. No lying 5. No intoxicants Respect for life Respect for others' property Respect for our pure nature Respect for honesty Respect for a clear mind

Which pertains to four noble truths and Eightfold path of Buddhism {Right View, Right Intention, Right Speech, Right Action, Right Livelihood, Right Effort, Right Mindfulness and Right Concentration} instead of having five principles of non-alignment? When both the countries are having a civilization of more than five thousand years old and champion of Buddhism in the past, it is shameless dastardly act to resort to such a war. Therefore, it was

not a war on the ground but it was a war waged on mankind and human sentiment. Since, the Lord Buddha teaches human values of peace and tranquility, it was a war on Buddha. O my fellow countrymen Shed your tears for the martyrs Those who have made a supreme sacrifice For the sake of motherland.