Metric Conversion Table Inches to centimeters Inches 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Inches 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Inches 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 0 2,5 5,1 7,6 10,2 12,7 15,2 17,8

20,3 22,9 25,4 0 27,9 30,5 33,0 35,6 38,1 40,6 43,2 45,7 48,3 50,8 0 53,3 55,9 58,4 61,0 63,5 66,0 68,6 1/16 2,7 5,2 7,8 10,3 12,9 15,4 17,9 20,5 23,0 25,6 1/16 28,1 30,6 33,2 35,7 38,3 40,8 43,3 45,9 48,4 51,0 1/16 53,5 56,0 58,6 61,1 63,7 66,2 68,7 1/8 2,9 5,4 7,9 10,5 13,0 15,6 18,1 20,6 23,2 25,7 1/8 28,3 30,8 33,3 35,9 38,4 41,0 43,5 46,0 48,6 51,1 1/8 53,7 56,2 58,7 61,3 63,8 66,4 68,9 1/4 3,2 5,7 8,3 10,8 13,3 15,9 18,4 21,0 23,5 26,0 1/4 28,6 31,1 33,7 36,2 38,7 41,3 43,8 46,4 48,9 51,4 1/4 54,0 56,5 59,1 61,6 64,1 66,7 69,2 3/8 3,5 6,0 8,6 11,1 13,7 16,2 18,7 21,3 23,8 26,4 3/8 28,9 31,4 34,0 36,5 39,1 41,6 44,1 46,7 49,2 51,8 3/8 54,3 56,8 59,4 61,9 64,5 67,0 69,5 1/2 3,8 6,4 8,9 11,4 14,0 16,5 19,1 21,6 24,1 26,7 1/2 29,2 31,8 34,3 36,8 39,4 41,9 44,5 47,0 49,5 52,1 1/2 54,6 57,2 59,7 62,2 64,8 67,3 69,9 5/8 4,1 6,7 9,2 11,7 14,3 16,8 19,4 21,9 24,4 27,0 5/8 29,5 32,1 34,6 37,1 39,7 42,2 44,8 47,3 49,8 52,4 5/8 54,9 57,5 60,0 62,5 65,1 67,6 70,2 3/4 4,4 7,0 9,5 12,1 14,6 17,1 19,7 22,2 24,8 27,3 3/4 29,8 32,4 34,9 37,5 40,0 42,5 45,1 47,6 50,2 52,7 3/4 55,2 57,8 60,3 62,9 65,4 67,9 70,5 7/8 4,8 7,3 9,8 12,4 14,9 17,5 20,0 22,5 25,1 27,6 7/8 30,2 32,7 35,2 37,8 40,3 42,9 45,4 47,9 50,5 53,0 7/8 55,6 58,1 60,6 63,2 65,7 68,3 70,8

28 29 30 Inches 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 Inches 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 Inches 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

71,1 73,7 76,2 0 78,7 81,3 83,8 86,4 88,9 91,4 94,0 96,5 99,1 101,6 0 104,1 106,7 109,2 111,8 114,3 116,8 119,4 121,9 124,5 127,0 0 129,5 132,1 134,6 137,2 139,7 142,2 144,8 147,3 149,9 152,4

71,3 73,8 76,4 1/16 78,9 81,4 84,0 86,5 89,1 91,6 94,1 96,7 99,2 101,8 1/16 104,3 106,8 109,4 111,9 114,5 117,0 119,5 122,1 124,6 127,2 1/16 129,7 132,2 134,8 137,3 139,9 142,4 144,9 147,5 150,0 152,6

71,4 74,0 76,5 1/8 79,1 81,6 84,1 86,7 89,2 91,8 94,3 96,8 99,4 101,9 1/8 104,5 107,0 109,5 112,1 114,6 117,2 119,7 122,2 124,8 127,3 1/8 129,9 132,4 134,9 137,5 140,0 142,6 145,1 147,6 150,2 152,7

71,8 74,3 76,8 1/4 79,4 81,9 84,5 87,0 89,5 92,1 94,6 97,2 99,7 102,2 1/4 104,8 107,3 109,9 112,4 114,9 117,5 120,0 122,6 125,1 127,6 1/4 130,2 132,7 135,3 137,8 140,3 142,9 145,4 148,0 150,5 153,0

72,1 74,6 77,2 3/8 79,7 82,2 84,8 87,3 89,9 92,4 94,9 97,5 100,0 102,6 3/8 105,1 107,6 110,2 112,7 115,3 117,8 120,3 122,9 125,4 128,0 3/8 130,5 133,0 135,6 138,1 140,7 143,2 145,7 148,3 150,8 153,4

72,4 74,9 77,5 1/2 80,0 82,6 85,1 87,6 90,2 92,7 95,3 97,8 100,3 102,9 1/2 105,4 108,0 110,5 113,0 115,6 118,1 120,7 123,2 125,7 128,3 1/2 130,8 133,4 135,9 138,4 141,0 143,5 146,1 148,6 151,1 153,7

72,7 75,2 77,8 5/8 80,3 82,9 85,4 87,9 90,5 93,0 95,6 98,1 100,6 103,2 5/8 105,7 108,3 110,8 113,3 115,9 118,4 121,0 123,5 126,0 128,6 5/8 131,1 133,7 136,2 138,7 141,3 143,8 146,4 148,9 151,4 154,0

73,0 75,6 78,1 3/4 80,6 83,2 85,7 88,3 90,8 93,3 95,9 98,4 101,0 103,5 3/4 106,0 108,6 111,1 113,7 116,2 118,7 121,3 123,8 126,4 128,9 3/4 131,4 134,0 136,5 139,1 141,6 144,1 146,7 149,2 151,8 154,3

73,3 75,9 78,4 7/8 81,0 83,5 86,0 88,6 91,1 93,7 96,2 98,7 101,3 103,8 7/8 106,4 108,9 111,4 114,0 116,5 119,1 121,6 124,1 126,7 129,2 7/8 131,8 134,3 136,8 139,4 141,9 144,5 147,0 149,5 152,1 154,6

Measuring For Women's Garments

[Measuring women]

[Check measurements] [Measuring men]

[Measuring children]

[Women's standard measurements] [Men's standard measurements]

The following measurements are needed for PatternMaker women's macros. Use these instructions also when drafting patterns according to the instructions on the pattern drafting pages. If you need ladies' standard measurements you can
get them by clicking here

Important! Don't take measurements yourself, but have someone else take them. Stand straight but relaxed when you are being measured. You will get the best results if the subject is wearing only her underwear. Important! Tie 3 cm (1 inch) wide elastic bands around your waist and hips. Locate the correct placements for these elastic bands carefully. Keep these elastic bands in place during the whole measuring process. Hip elastic is fastened on the level where hip circumference is maximum. Depending on your build, this may be over your buttocks (18-20 cm from waist downwards) or on top of your thighs (25-30 cm from waist downwards), or in between.

To view the larger pictures and to print them click on the picture in question. BE ESPECIALLY CAREFUL WHEN TAKING THE MEASUREMENTS PRINTED IN RED . They are crucial for good fitting patterns. Aft er having taken all the measurements, take these measurements once again. Important! Except for pants' cuff circumference and skirt/dress length, all measurements are body measurements. DO NOT ADD ANY EASE to the measurements, the program does it for you. DO NOT TIGHTEN MEASURING TAPE. YOU CAN USE CENTIMETERS OR INCHES. Give inches in fractions (to the nearest 1/4 inch). Print the
measurements chart for women

Neck circumference Bust circumference Waist circumference Abdomen (= top hip) circumference. If the subject's abdomen circumference is more than her hip circumference, use abdomen circumference also as the measurement for the hip circumference. Hip circumference Bust span (distance between bust apexes) Bust height from center of back neck over shoulder to apex of one breast Waist height from center of back neck over shoulder to apex of one breast and from there vertically to lower edge of waist elastic. To get a more accurate measurement, loop the tape up one side, over the neck and down the other side (=double) and divide the result by 2 (see picture). Take this and bust height measurements together in one step.

Back length from center of back neck to lower edge of waist elastic. To get this measurement taken correctly, please do as follows: use two measuring tapes. Put one of them hanging around your neck so that the loose ends of the tape hang on your bust. Put an elastic around your waist. Measure back length from the lower edge of the measuring tape around your neck to the lower edge of the elastic around your waist. Back width hang your arms relaxed at your sides. The measurement is taken from and to the point where your arm meets your body (but not to armpit) about 10 cm below base of neck. Shoulder length from neck to shoulder tip. To find the shoulder tip, raise your arm to horizontal position and feel where there is a hollow spot between shoulder and arm bones. Abdomen height: vertical measurements from lower edge of waist elastic to level where abdomen circumference is maximum. Hip height: vertical measurement from lower edge of waist elastic to level where hip circumference is maximum Biceps circumference Wrist circumference over wrist bone Arm length from shoulder tip to wrist. Bend arm slightly when measuring Pants outside length from lower edge of waist elastic to pants cuff Crotch depth sit on bench or chair, measure vertically from waist elastic to chair level at side. Crotch depth can also be measured from a pair of old, well fitting pants, crotch depth is the difference between outside and inside length of pants. Desired cuff circumference (not ankle circumference) Desired jacket length from waist elastic to hem Desired skirt /dress length from waist elastic to hem

Drafting patterns for basic bodice (sloper) According to the instructions on this page patterns for basic bodice are drafted using the Scandinavian pattern drafting system. To keep the instructions simple, only centimeters are used. Have your measurements taken according to the instructions on

pages http://www.leenas.com/../English/measure_women.html andhttp://www.leenas.com/../ English/measuring_check.html. Here are some table measurements you need. All measurements are given in centimeters. TABLE MEASUREMENTS cm Size Bust Bust dart Armscye height Front shoulder height Back shoulder height 32 34 76 80 4,3 5,1 20,4 20,8 4,6 4,4 36 84 5,8 21,2 4,2 38 88 6,6 21,6 4 40 92 7,3 22 3,8 42 96 8,1 22,4 3,6 44 100 8,8 22,8 3,4 46 104 9,6 23,2 3,2 48 110 10,8 23,8 3 50 116 12,1 24,4 2,8 52 122 13,3 25 2,6 54 128 14,6 25,6 2,4

2,35 2,4

2,45

2,5

2,55

2,6

2,65

2,7

2,75

2,8

2,85

2,9

Add ease to the measurements of the subject according to the table below. IMPORTANT! When proceeding, always use measurements where ease has been added. EASE cm Bust Back width Waist Abdomen Hip + 8 1,6 6 4 4 = 1/2

Do the following calculations to get some extra measurements. CALCULATIONS cm = Armscye width Bust span Neck width Neck depth Neck length, back (bust+ease)/8 (bust+ease)/5 neck/5 neck/5 neck/5 +/-1.5 0 -1.0 +0.5 -0.5 =

Drafting the patterns

Draft a frame according to picture below. 1-2 = bust circumference divided by 2 2-3 = armscye height 2-4 = back length 4-5 = abdomen height 4-6 = hip height 1-7 = back width divided by 2 7-8 = armscye width Mark points from 9 to 18

4-19 = bust span divided by 2 19-20 = waist height minus bust height 2-21 = neck width (refer to calculations) Draft vertical lines upwards from points 2 and 21. Trace point

22 on line from point 21; 20-22 = bust height minus back neck length (refer to calculations). 8-23 = front shoulder height; draft horizontal line from point 23 to the right; mark point 24 on the line 7-25 = back shoulder height; draft horizontal line from point 25 to the left; mark point 26 on the line 1-27 = neck width (same as 2-21; refer to calculations); draft verticl line from 27 upwards Move point 1 0.5 cm upwards 27-28 = 2.5 cm; draft back neck arc 1-28 28-29 = shoulder length + 2 cm (point 29 must be on line 25-26)

Draft horizontal line from point 22 to the left, get point 22a 22a-22b = neck depth (refer to calculations) 28-30 = 7 cm 30-31 = 3 cm Measure 4 cm from point 28 on line 28-29 and move uppwards 0.6 cm to get point 32 Measure 2 cm from point 32 on line 28-29 and move uppwards 0.6 cm to get point 33

Draft an arc with radius of bust height minus neck length, center point 20 Draft an arc with radius of bust dart (refer to table measurements), center point 22 Mark point 34 at the intersection of these arcs. 34-35 = shoulder length (point 35 must be on line 23-24) Draft vertical line downwards from 31 to get points 36 and 37 37-38 = 5 cm Mark point 39. Mark point 39a. 39a-39b = 2 cm Measure distance 4-13. Subtract waist circumference divided by 2 from this distance. Divide result by 6 = a. 39-40 = a 39-41 = a 16-42 = a 16-43 = a 19-44 = a 18-45 = a Draft vertical line from point 19 downwards to get points 46 and 47 47-48 = 5 cm Measure distance 6-15. Subtract this distance from hip circumference divided by 2. Divide the result by 2 = b. 18-49 = b 18-50 = b 9-51 = 1/4 distance 8-9

10-52 = 1/2 distance 7-10

Draft Center Front piece 22b - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 46 - 48 - 45 - 20 - 22 Draft Front Side piece 34 - 20 - 44 - 48 - 46 - 49 - 17 - 43 - 11 - 51 - 35 Draft Back piece 1 - 28 - 32 - 31 - 33 29 - 52 - 11 - 42 - 17 - 50 - 36 - 15 - 14 - 13 - 12 Draft back waist dart 39b - 41 - 38 - 40.

Rotate bust dart 4 cm to the left according to the picture. To get instructions of how to draft patterns for a basic sleeve, click here.

Leena's Pattern Drafting Lesson:

Drafting Patterns For Basic Sleeve

Metric conversion table

Take patterns for the garment you are going to sew. Measure the length and width of the armscye from the pattern. Refer to the picture under.

1-3-5 = armscye length 2-3-4 = armscye width 2-3 and 3-4 = 1/2 armscye width Divide armscye length by 3 to get the cap height. Measure the subject's biceps circumference. Add 6-8 cm ease to it. Measure the subject's sleeve length from the cap top to the wrist.

Draw a vertical line A-B corresponding to the subject's sleeve length. Divide it in half and you

get point C. Draw a horizontal line D-E corresponding to the subject's biceps measurement (biceps circumference + ease)

Measure from point C downwards 4 cm and draw the elbow line. Measure 2.5 cm from point A to the left and to the right and you get points F and G. Measure 1/2 armscye width from point J to the right to get point K.

Measure cap height from point A downwards and you get point H. Draw a horizontal line J-L which corresponds the subject's biceps measurement (biceps circumference + ease). Draw a vertical line from K upwards 3 cm and you get point M. Divide the line F-M in three and you get points N and O. Divide line G-L in four and you get points P, Q and R. The points N1, O1, P1, Q1 and R1 are situated as in the picture above: N1 0.7cm left from N. O1 1cm left from point O. P1 0.2cm right from P. Q1 0.3cm left from Q. R1 0.9cm left from R.

Draw the sleeve cap smoothly through points J - M - N1- O1 - A -P1 - Q1 - R1 - L as in the picture above.

Draft rest of the sleeve according to the picture above.

If you want to draft an elbow dart to the sleeve, cut the sleeve along elbow line and rotate bottom piece 2 cm clockwise, refer to the picture. When drafting the new

outline of the sleeve, notice the place of the elbow dart apex.

Altering a basic sleeve into a sleeve for dropped shoulder Lower sleeve cap with 3-6 cm. Lengthen shoulder with the same amount. Look at the picture below.

Making armscye larger/smaller This is the rule you have to follow : If you lower the armscye of the bodice, you have to broaden the sleeve at the armpit with the same amount. This makes the sleeve larger at the armscye. Refer to the picture below where the sleeve has been broadened at the armpit with totally 6 cm (3 + 3 cm). And vice versa: If you reduce the sleeve at the armpit, you have to raise the armscye of the bodice. This makes the sleeve smaller at the armscye. Please notice that if you lower the armscye of the bodice too much, you will not be able to raise your hand. So be careful when lowering the armscye.

Copyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki

Leena's Pattern Drafting Lesson:

Drafting Patterns For Gathered Sleeves

Metric conversion table

The suggested measurements are directional. Change them if you want to. You might, however, want to start with them. The units used are centimeters. 1) take your pattern for the basic sleeve 2) cut it in four pieces as illustrated below 3) pivot the two small top pieces to the left and to the right 6 cm as in picture 4) raise the middle top piece 6 cm 5) draw the new pattern following the outlines of the pieces.

When sewing, gather the sleeve head. Do not make any alterations to the sleeve opening (armscye).
Copyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki

Leena's Pattern Drafting Lesson:

Drafting Patterns For Raglan Sleeves

Metric conversion table

Use the patterns for the garment you are going to sew. If your patterns do not have bust/shoulder darts, start from point 3).

1) Cut center front piece from bust/shoulder dart apex to center front line and back piece from shoulder dart apex to back center line as well as the sleeve along its center line. 2) pivot pieces so that the darts are temporarily moved to center front and back.

3) Place the sleeve halves according to the picture above: distance A-B should equal to B-C and distance D-E to E-F. Sleeve cap lines of the original sleeve go through shoulder points.

4) Draw the patterns for the raglan sleeves as illustrated above. It is up to you how you shape the sleeve from the armscye to the neck opening. Draw the shoulder points with a smooth curve. Measure that the upper seams of the front and the back sleeve match. If not, change the shapes of

them correspondingly.

5) Draw patterns for front and back pieces as illustrated above in green.

6) After having pivoted the front and back center pieces so that the temporary darts close, your patterns should look something like this. . Sewing instructions are also included in this web-site. To view them click here.

Leena's Pattern Drafting Lesson:

Drafting Patterns For Corsets

Metric conversion table

Take the patterns for your basic sloper. Draft patterns for a basic corset according to the picture. All measurements are in centimeters. The patterns drafted according to these instructions have ease as much as your basic sloper does. If there is too much or too little ease for the material you use, decrease or increase the patterns at side seams. If you sew the corset of elastic fabric, you need less ease than when you sew the corset of non-elastic fabric Sew a test garment. You can decorate the corset with lace, lace appliqu or brodure if you like. Use your imagination. Examine ready made corsets in stores and copy ideas from them. Insert corset bones into vertical seams. Leave the seams which go over bust without bones. You can read sewing instructions for corset and other lingerie
clicking here

Below in lessons 5 and 6 you get instructions for drafting patterns to two corset tops. I hope the pictures speak for themselves.

Drafting patterns for a corset top 1.

Drafting p atterns for a corset top 2.

Copyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki, Jarvenpaa, Finland

Leena's Pattern Drafting Lessons:

Drafting Patterns For Women's Pants

Metric conversion table

This lesson shows how the patterns for the basic pants are drafted according to the Scandinavian pattern drafting system. You can read instructions for making alterations to the patterns to make different styles of pants clicking here There you'll find instructions for pleated pants, Bermudas, jeans and casual pants without side seam. Follow the pictures as you read the instructions.
MEASURING
Click here to move to the measuring page. Read carefully the measuring instructions. To draft patterns for pants, you have to take the measurements listed in the table below. To keep the pictures clear and readable the measurements are given only in centimeters. You can change centimeters to inches using formula 1 cm = 0.4 inches.

ADDING EASE

You would not be able to wear the pants if the patterns were drawn exactly to your body measurements. Therefore you have to add ease to some of the measurements. The basic pants usually are a tight fitting garment and therefore only a small amount of ease is added. ADD TO THE WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE: 2 cm ADD TO THE HIP CIRCUMFERENCE: 4 cm Do not add any ease to other measurements. Write down the measurements in the table below.
Body measurement WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE ABDOMEN CIRCUMFERENCE * * + 4 cm= Body measurement + ease +2 cm=

HIP CIRCUMFERENCE (if your abdomen circumference is more than your hip circumference, use it * for your hip circumference)

CROTCH DEPTH ABDOMEN HEIGHT HIP HEIGHT OUTSIDE SEAM LENGTH KNEE CIRCUMFERENCE The desired finished leg circumference at knee CUFF CIRCUMFERENCE The desired finished leg circumference at cuff

* * * * * *

DO THE FOLLOWING CALCULATIONS: Round the measurements up to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Divided Divided Divided by 20 = by 8 by 4 x * * * * * *

Body measurement + ease Waist circumference Hip circumference Knee circumference Cuff circumference * * * *

DRAFTING THE PATTERNS

Draw a frame first.

Start by drawing a vertical line that corresponds to the outside seam length of the pants. Draw a horizontal line at the top of the vertical line. This is the waist line of the pants. Draw a horizontal line at the bottom of the vertical line. This is the cuff line of the pants. Measure down from the waist line a distance equal to the abdomen height and draw a horizontal line. This is the abdomen line. Measure down from the waist line a distance equal to the hip height and draw a horizontal line. This is the hip line. Measure down from the waist line a distance equal to the crotch height and draw a horizontal line. This is the crotch line.

Find the point midway between the crotch line and the cuff line. Draw the horizontal knee line 6 cm above this point.

FRONT PIECE Waist and dart

Divide the waist circumference (+ ease) by 8. On the waist line, measure this distance to the left from the pants' center line. Mark this point as the center front point of the waist. Divide the waist circumference (+ease) by 8 and add 3 cm. On the waist line, measure this distance to the right from the pants' center line. Mark this point as the side front point of the waist. Of the extra 3 cm, +2 cm is for the dart and +1 cm is to move the side seams 1 cm towards the back to prevent them from showing. The side point is raised by 1 cm. On the waist line, measure 4.5 cm to the right from the pants' center line and start the front dart from there. Make the dart 2 cm wide. The dart extends from the waist line to

the abdomen line. Draw the right side of the dart so that it forms a right angle where it meets the abdomen line.
Hip

Divide the hip circumference (+ ease) by 8 and subtract 2 cm. On the hip line, measure this distance to the left from the pants' center line. Mark this point as the center front point of the hip. Divide the hip circumference (+ ease) by 8 and add 2 cm. On the hip line, measure this distance to the right from the pants' center line. Mark this point as the side front point of the hip.
Crotch

Draw a vertical line from the center hip point downwards to the crotch line and mark this point. From the marked point, measure x-1 cm to the left and mark. Mark this point as the tip of the front crotch curve. X is calculated by dividing the hip circumference (+ ease) by 20.
Knee and cuff

Divide the desired knee circumference by 4 and subtract 1 cm. On the knee line, measure this distance to the left and to the right from the pants' center line. Mark these points as the knee points of the front pant. Divide the desired cuff circumference by 4 and subtract 1 cm. On the cuff line, measure this distance to the left and to the right from the pants' center line. Mark these points as the cuff points of the front pant. Now you are ready to draft the front piece pattern. Follow the points that you have marked according to the above instructions. If the difference of the waist and the abdomen/hip circumference is a lot, there may be a disturbing angle at the side seam at the abdomen line. In such a case round the line a bit outwards between the waist and the abdomen line (not marked in the picture). Curve the inseam a bit inwards between the crotch and the knee (not marked in the picture).

Draft the facing for the zipper, 3 cm wide and 18-20 cm high (according to the length of the zipper you are going to use), at the top of the front pant's center line .
BACK PIECE

Draft the back piece pattern in the same frame with the front piece.
Waist points of the center back and the side back seam

Draw a small rectangle, 1.5 cm wide and x-1.5 cm high, to the left starting at the top of the pants' center line (drawn in red in the picture). Mark the top left corner of this rectangle as the waist point of the back center seam. Divide the waist circumference by 4, add 2.5 cm and subtract 1 cm. Trace this distance from the previous point towards the waist line at side raised by 1 cm (as in the front) (drawn in cyan in the picture below). Of the distance +2.5 cm is for the dart and -1 cm is to move the side seams backwards (the corresponding amount was added to the front waist). Mark the intersection of this line and the waist line (raised by 1 cm, as for the front) as the waist point of the back side seam.
Hip points of the center back and side back seams

Draw another rectangle, x+1 cm wide and x-1.5 cm high, to the left from the intersection of the hip line and the pants' center line. Mark the top left corner of this rectangle as the hip point of the back center seam. Divide the hip circumference by 4. Trace this distance from the previous point towards the hip line at side (drawn in blue in the picture below). Mark the intersection of this line and the hip line as the hip point of the back side seam.
Back crotch

Measure a distance of x-1 cm to the left from the tip of the front crotch curve and 11.5 cm downwards from it. Mark this point as the tip of the back crotch curve. X is calculated by dividing the hip circumference (+ ease) by 20.

The knee and the cuff points of the back pant

Mark these points 2 cm to the left and to the right from the corresponding points of the front pant. Now you are ready to draft the back piece pattern. Follow the points that you have marked according to the above instructions. Draft a smooth line from the waist point to the hip point. The abdomen line of the back pant starts from the intersection of the back side line and the frame abdomen line and is parallel to the hip line of the back pant. Draw the back center seam smoothly according to the picture. Back dart is 2,5 cm wide. Place it at the midpoint of the back waistline. Vertically the back dart extends to the midpoint between the abdomen and the hip height.
Note : Please notice that the back piece inseam length measured from the crotch to the knee is to be 1-1.5 cm shorter than that of the front inseam. The reason for this is that it reduces the amount of fabric under the buttocks in order to achieve a better fit of the back pant. You must stretch the back inseam from the crotch to the knee when attaching it to the front inseam.

Sewing instructions are also included in this website. To view them

Copyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki

click here

Leena's Pattern Drafting Lesson:

Altering Patterns For Different Kinds of Pants

Metric conversion table

In this lesson I give instructions of how to design different styles of women's pants. If you don not have patterns for basic pants, you can draft them according to instructions on this web-site. Click here . Please remember that the units used in these instructions are centimeters. How to make alterations for pleated pants Make alterations to the front piece of the pants' patterns. Back piece is left unaltered. Cut the front piece along the center line and from dart apex to the center of the leg cuff. Pivot pieces as in the picture: 2 * 6

cm. Experiment with different widths of the pleats. I suggest that you start with the amount in the picture.

Drafting patterns for Bermudas The picture speaks for itself, I hope. Pleats are optional. Bermudas can be sewn also with ordinary darts.

Drafting patterns for jeans

Cut the back piece of the basic pants as illustrated in the picture. 4 cm from the waist at the side seam and 7 cm from waist at the center back seam. Draw the pocket mouth and the pocket on the front piece. Copy the pocket beside the front piece and cut it from the dart apex vertically across the bottom of the pocket. This is for moving the

front waist dart to the bottom of the pocket. Darts are not used in the jeans' front piece.

Join the back back yoke pieces into one piece. If you do not want to sew the small dart which remains on the back piece when the yoke pieces are cut away, you can move it to the side seam. Draw the back pocket according to the picture. Cut front hip corner along the pocket mouth line. Pivot the pocket pieces to move the dart to the bottom of the pocket and join the pocket into one piece.

If you think that the legs are too wide for the jeans, reduce the side seams from hip downwards 1-1.5 cm and the inseams from the crotch downwards 1-1.5 cm.

Casual pants with no side seam

For casual pants, place the front and the back piece of the pants' patterns side by side at side seams as in the picture. Leave 6 cm (or another amount which you find appropriate for your purposes) between the hips of the pieces. Draw the new outline for the pants as illustrated, make the width of the cuff as wide or narrow as you want to. Add space for elastic waist at the top of the pants. If you prefer to have side seams in your casual pants (e.g. to be able to sew hip pockets), just cut the piece vertically in two.

Sewing instructions are also included in this web-site. To view them Copyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki
Leena's Pattern Drafting Lesson:

click here

Drafting Patterns For Children's Pants

Metric conversion table

This lesson instructs you to draft baby basic pants patterns. With babies I mean children from 0 to approximately 2 years of age i.e. the children who use diapers (napkins). At the end of the instructions I give instructions of what are the differences when drafting pants for children from 3 to 14 years. The pattern drafting method used is the Scandinavian one but it has been slightly modified.
Measuring

To draft patterns for children's pants, you have to take the measurements listed in the table below. To keep the pictures clear and readable the measurements are given only in centimeters. You can change centimeters to inches using formula 1 cm = 0.4 inches.
Adding ease

The subject would not be able to wear the pants if the patterns were drafted exactly to his/hers body measurements. Therefore you have to add ease to some of

the measurements. ADD EASE TO THE WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE: 2 cm ADD EASE TO THE HIP CIRCUMFERENCE: 4 cm ADD EASE TO THE CROTCH HEIGHT: 2 cm (for diaper, napkin) Do not add any ease to other measurements. Write down the measurements in the table below Body Body measurement + measurement ease WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE HIP CIRCUMFERENCE Crotch height OUTSIDE SEAM LENGTH = side seam from waist to floor * * * * + 2 cm= + 4 cm= + 2 cm=

CUFF CIRCUMFERENCE The desired finished leg circumference * at cuff

Crotch height is measured in the following way. Let the child sit on a bench or a table and measure vertically from his/her waist to the bench/table at the side. Crotch height can also be measured from a pair of old, well fitting pants, crotch height is the difference between the outside and the inside seam of the pants. All measurements are body measurements. DO NOT ADD ANY EASE when measuring. It is added later in the calculations. Default measurements for children It is not an easy task to measure a children or a baby. Therefore I give here the Scandinavian table measurements for the children. You can use these or measure your child yourself. Child's height, cm 62 68 Waist circ Hip circ Crotch height Knee circ Cuff circ

BABIES, 0-2 YEARS, HEIGHT 62-98 CM 48 49 53 54 16.5 17 26 26

74 80 86 92 98 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146

50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59/60 60/62 62/64 64/66

55 56 57 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 73/72 76/75 7978

17.5 18 18.5 19 19.5 18 18.5 19 19.5 20 20.5 21 21.5 35 35.5 36 36.5 37 37.5 38 39

26 26 27 28 29 29/26 29.5/27 30/28 30.5/29 31/30 31.5/31 32 33

CHILDREN, 3-14 YEARS, HEIGHT 104-146 CM (girls/boys)

DO THE FOLLOWING CALCULATIONS: Round the measurements up to the nearest 0.5 cm. Body measurement + ease Waist circumference Hip circumference Cuff circumference * * * Divided Divided Divided by 4 by 8 by 20 = x * * * * *

Drafting the patterns

Follow the numbers in the picture. All measurements mentioned below are with ease.
FRONT PANT

From 1 to 2 = Start by drawing a vertical line that corresponds to the outside length of the pants. 3 = Measure down from point 1 on the waist line a distance equal to the crotch height. 4 = Find the point equal to 1/3 crotch height up from the crotch line 5 = Measure up from point 2 a distance of 2-3 cm. Draw horizontal lines to the left and to the right from point 1 = this is the waist line 3 = this is the crotch line 4 = this is the hip line 5 = this is the cuff line 6 = Measure from point 4 to the left on the hip line 1/8 hip circumference - 1.5 cm 7 = Measure from point 4 to the right on the hip line 1/8 hip circumference + 1.5cm + 2 cm 8 = Draw a vertical utility line from point 6 down to the crotch line 9 = Draw a vertical line from point 6 up to the waist line 10 = Measure from point 9 to the right 1/4 waist circumference +1cm (this moves the side seam 1 cm to the back) + 3cm (this is for the waist pleat) 11= Measure from point 8 to the left on the crotch line "x" (calculated above) + 1 cm; distance from point 8 to 11 is the length of the front crotch curve. Draw the curve between points 6 and 11 as in the picture. 12 = Measure from point 5 to the left and to the right 1/4 cuff - 0.75 cm (the seams move 0.75 cm to the front) Draft the front pattern according to the picture along points 9 - 6 - 11 - 12 - 5 - 12 - 7 - 10 - 1. Curve a bit outwards between points 7 and 10. Measure from point 1 to the right 3 cm and mark the waist pleat here.
BACK PANT

Draft the back pattern on top of the front pattern. 13 = Measure from point 4 up "x" +2 cm (distance between points 4 and 13 is marked in the picture with "a"). "X" is calculated above.

14= Measure from point 13 to the left "x" (distance between points 13 and 14 is marked in the picture with "b") 15 = Trace the hip point of the back pant by drawing a line which equals to the length of 1/4 hip circumference + 2 cm from point 14 and meets the front hip line. 16 = The back center line from point 14 to 16 forms a right angle against the hip line (1415). 17 = The back waist line from point 16 to 17 forms a right angle against the back center line (14-16). Move a triangular ruler up the back center line to find points 16 and 17. Point 17 is on the waist line. Distance between points 16 and 17 is 1/4 waist -1 cm (this moves the side seams 1 cm to the back) + 2 cm (this is for the back waist dart). 18 = Measure from point 11 to the left "x" +1 cm

19 = measure from the front cuff points (12) to the left and to the right 1.5 cm. Draft the back pattern according to the picture along points 16 - 14 - 11 - 18 - 19 5 - 19 - 15 - 17. Find the point midway between points 16 and 17 and draw a dart there. The dart is 2 cm wide and 8 cm deep. The dart apex is on a line which forms a straight angle against the hip line. Draw the back grain line: it is in the same place where it is on the front piece. Check that all the curved lines curve smoothly.
PANTS FOR CHILDREN FROM 3 TO 14 YEARS OF AGE

Pants for children over 3 years differ from the babies' pants because children over 3 years do not need diapers and their figure is somewhat different compared to the figure of the babies. The differences are mentioned here. ADD EASE TO THE WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE: 1 cm ADD EASE TO THE HIP CIRCUMFERENCE: 4 cm DO NOT ADD EASE TO THE CROTCH HEIGHT Do not add any ease to other measurements. The measurements between the points which are different compared with those of the babies' pants are: FRONT: 1-9 = 1/8 waist circumference - 0.5 cm 1-10 = 1/8 waist circumference + 0.5 cm + 1 cm + 2.5 cm; raise side seam point with 1 cm 4-7 = 1/8 hip circumference +1.5 cm + 1.5 cm 8-11 = x BACK: a = x - 0.5 cm b = x + 1 cm 14-15 = 1/4 hip circumference 16-17 = 1/4 waist circumference - 1 cm + 1.5 cm; raise side seam point with 1 cm 11-18 = x

Calculate the place of the knee to curve the legs inwards there. Do it with help of the inside seam length of the pants. The inside seam length is the outside seam length subtracted with the crotch height. The place for the knee is 1/2 inside seam length + 1/10 inside seam length measured from the floor. The width of the leg at the knee is drafted the same way as at the cuff i.e. - at the front the desired finished leg circumference at the knee divided by 2 - 1.5 cm i.e. 1/4 knee circumference - 0.75 cm to the left and to the right from the center line - at the back the desired finished leg circumference at the knee divided by 2 + 1.5 cm i.e. 1/4 knee circumference + 0.75 cm to the left and to the right from the center line. The width of the front pleat is 2.5 cm to the right from the front center line. The width of the back dart is 1.5 cm and the depth of the back dart is 7 cm.

Sewing instructions are also included on this web site. To view them
Copyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki, Jarvenpaa, Finland

click here

Leena's Pattern Drafting Lesson:

Men's Pants

Metric conversion table

This lesson shows how the patterns for the men's basic pants are drafted. The pattern drafting method used is the German Mller & Sohn but it has been slightly modified.
MEASURING

to move to the measuring page. Read carefully the measuring instructions. To draft patterns for pants, you have to take the measurements listed in the table below. To keep the pictures clear and readable the measurements are given only in centimeters. You can change centimeters to inches using formula 1 cm = 0.4 inches.
Click here

ADDING EASE

You would not be able to wear the pants if the patterns were drafted exactly to your body measurements. Therefore you have to add ease to some of the measurements. The basic pants usually are a tight fitting garment and therefore only a small amount of ease is added. ADD TO THE WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE: 4 cm ADD TO THE HIP CIRCUMFERENCE: 4 cm Do not add any ease to other measurements. Write down the measurements in the table below.
Body measurement WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE HIP CIRCUMFERENCE INSIDE SEAM LENGTH OUTSIDE SEAM LENGTH KNEE CIRCUMFERENCE The desired finished leg circumference at knee CUFF CIRCUMFERENCE The desired finished leg circumference at cuff * * * * * * Body measurement + ease + 4 cm= + 4 cm=

DO THE FOLLOWING CALCULATIONS: Round the measurements up to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Body measurement + ease Waist circumference Hip circumference Knee circumference Cuff circumference * * * * * * * * Divided Divided by 4 by 20

DRAFTING THE PATTERNS

Draw a frame first . Follow the numbers in the picture. 1-2 = Start by drawing a vertical line that corresponds to the outside length of the pants. Draw a horizontal line from point 1 to the right. This is the waist line . Draw a horizontal line from point 2 to the right. This is the cuff line . 2-3 = Measure up from point 2 on the cuff line a distance equal to the inside lenght. Draw a horizontal line from point 3 to the right. This is the crotch line. 4 = Find the point midway between the crotch line and the cuff line (between points 2 and 3). Draw the horizontal knee line 6 cm above this point. 5 = Measure up from point 3 a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease. Draw the horizontal hip line from point 5 to the right. 6 = Measure from point 5 to the right a distance equal to 1/4 * hip circumference + ease + 1 cm. 7 = Measure from point 6 to the right a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease+ 1 cm. 8 = Find the point midway between points 5 and 7. 9, 10, 11, 12 = Draw vertical lines up and down from point 8. This is the center line of the pants' legs. 13, 14 = Draw vertical lines up and down from point 6.

15, 16 = Measure from point 11 to the right and to the left a distance equal to 1/4 * knee circumference - 1 cm. Draw a utility line from point 5 to point 16 . The line from point 15 to point 16 form the knee line. 17, 18 = Measure from point 12 to the right and to the left a distance equal to 1/4 * cuff circumference - 1 cm. The line from point 17 to 18 form the cuff line. 20 = draw a line from point 7 to point 15, and you get point 20. 21 = Measure from point 14 up a distance equal to 1/2 of the distance between points 14 and 20

FRONT PIECE

Now you are ready to draw the front piece according to the picture. When drawing the legs, curve a bit inwards between the crotch and the knee. 22 = Measure 0.5 to 1 cm from point 13 to the left. 23 = Measure from point 22 to the left a distance equal to 1/4 * waist circumference + ease

24 = Measure 1 cm up from point 23

BACK PIECE

Draw the back piece pattern in the same frame with the front piece. 25 = Measure from point 8 to the right a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease + 1 cm and up a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease - 1 cm 26 = Measure from point 25 to the left a distance equal to 1/4 * hip circumference + ease and down a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease - 1 cm. Line from point 25 to point 26 form the hip line of the back pant. 27 = Measure from point 8 to the right a distance equal to that between points 8 and 26 15 -> 28 = 2 cm 17 -> 29 = 2 cm 16 -> 30 = 2 cm 18 -> 31 = 2 cm

32 = Measure from point 9 to the right 3 cm and up a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease -1.5 cm

33 = measure from point 32 a distance equal to 1/4 * waist so that point 33 will be on the waist line (from point 1 horizontally to the left) 34 = Draw a line from point 27 to 28 and you get point 34. Lower this point 1.5 cm. Back crotch curve will be 1.5 cm below the front crotch curve and thus the back piece inseam length measured from the crotch to the knee will be 1.5 cm shorter than that of the front inseam . The reason for this is that it reduces the amount of fabric under the buttocks in order to achieve a better fit of the back pant. You must stretch the back inseam from the crotch to the knee when attaching it to the front inseam.

Now you are ready to draw the back piece according to the picture. When drawing the legs, curve a bit inwards between the crotch and the knee. You notice that the patterns are drafted without waist darts. This suits for most men. If you want to add pleats to the front piece - they are commonly used - add the desired width of the pleats to the front piece waist measurement and draw the pleats to the pants front waist to the left from the center line.

Sewing instructions are also included on this web site. To view them
click here

C opyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki

Leena's Pattern Drafting Lesson:

Drafting Patterns For Hood

Metric conversion table

Step 1: Measure the neck circumference of the garment (not your neck circumference). Divide it by 2.

Step 2: Draw a rectangle in size 1/2 of the garment neck circumference x 35-40 cm = points A-B-C-D Step 3: Draw a circle at the upper right corner of the rectangle with radius 8 cm Step 4: Add points as follows: - midway of points A and D = point E - 8 cm from point B to the left = point F - 8 cm from point B downwards = point G - midway of points C-D = point H , use snap to mid point (CtrlF2) - midway of points C-H = point J - midway of points D-K = point L - midway of points H-L = point K Step 5 : - move point A 2 cm to the left - move points D and L 3 cm down - move point K 1.5 cm down Step 6: Change points B, E, H and L to round points (Points/Round Vertex) Sewing instructions are also included in this web-site. To view them
click here.

Copyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki

Leena's Pattern Drafting Lesson:

Drafting Patterns For Women's Basic Skirt

Metric conversion table

This lesson shows how the patterns for the basic skirt are drafted according to the Scandinavian pattern drafting system. Follow the pictures as you read the instructions.
MEASURING
Click here to move to the measuring page. Read the measuring instructions carefully. To draft skirt patterns, you have to take the measurements listed in the table below. To keep the pictures clear and readable, the measurements are given only in centimeters. You can change centimeters to inches using formula 1 cm = 0.4 inches.

ADDING EASE

You would not be able to wear the skirt if the patterns were drawn exactly to your body measurements. Therefore you have to add ease to some of the measurements. The basic skirt usually is a tight fitting garment and therefore only a small amount of ease is added. ADD TO THE WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE: 2 cm ADD TO THE HIP CIRCUMFERENCE: 4 cm Do not add any ease to other measurements. Write down the measurements in the table below.
Body measurement WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE ABDOMEN CIRCUMFERENCE * * + 4 cm= +2 cm= Body measurement + ease

HIP CIRCUMFERENCE (if your abdomen circumference is more than your hip circumference, * use it for your hip circumference) ABDOMEN HEIGHT HIP HEIGHT SKIRT LENGTH FROM WAIST TO HEM * * *

DO THE FOLLOWING CALCULATIONS:

Round the measurements up to the nearest 0.5 cm.

Body measurement + ease Waist circumference Hip circumference * * * * * Divided by 2 Divided by 4 * Divided by 10

DRAFTING THE PATTERNS

Draw a frame first.

1) Start by drawing a vertical line that corresponds to the length of the skirt. This is the center front line of the skirt. 2) Draw a horizontal line at the top of the vertical line. This is the waist line of the skirt. 3) Draw a horizontal line at the bottom of the vertical line. This is the hem line of the

skirt. 4) Measure down from the waist line a distance equal to the abdomen height and draw a horizontal line. This is the abdomen line. 5) Measure down from the waist line a distance equal to the hip height and draw a horizontal line. This is the hip line. 6) On the waist line, measure 1/2 of Hip circumference to the right from the skirt's front center line and draw a vertical line from there down to the hem line. This is the center back line of the skirt. 7) On the waist line, measure 1/4 hip circumference and 1.5 cm to the right from the skirt's front center line and draw a vertical line from there down to the hem line. This is the side line. The side line is thus moved 1.5 cm towards back to prevent it from being seen from the front.
Darts

8) On the waist line, measure 1/10 waist circumference to the right from the skirt's front center line and start the front dart from there. Make the dart 2 cm wide. The dart extends from the waist line to the abdomen line. Draw the right side of the dart so that it forms a right angle where it meets the abdomen line. Back dart is 2.5 cm wide. Center it at the midpoint of the back waistline. Vertically, the back dart extends to the midpoint between the abdomen and the hip height. 9) Mark the waist side points according to the picture. First, calculate the amount of width you have to remove on the waist line. Subtract 1/2 waist circumference (+ease) and the widths of the darts (2 and 2.5 cm) from 1/2 hip circumference (+ease). Measure 1/2 of this amount to the right and to the left from the top point of the side line. Finally, raise front and back waist side points 1 cm.

If the difference between your hip circumference and your waist circumference is 25 cm (10") or more, draw two front darts. Measure 6 cm from side line to the left and start one dart from there. Place the other dart 4 cm to the left of the first dart. Make the darts 2 cm wide.

Round abdomen

If you have a round abdomen, raise the front center by 2-3 cm to make more room for it.
Raised waist

Remove ease from the waist measurements. Draft the raised waist to the skirt's waist mirroring darts to it. Draft facing pieces copying them from the skirt's raised waist as in the picture. Move and rotate the pieces to form whole facing pattern.

Leena's Drafting Lessons

Drafting Patterns For a Child's Jacket

Metric conversion table

This lesson instructs you to draft a jacket for chidren using children's shirt macro to start with. The pattern drafting method used is the Scandinavian one. Start running the shirt macro for children. To see drawings of the garments included in the children's macro, click here . To get instructions of how to order this macro collection, click here . The technique described here to draft the collar is a simple one which can be used for children's garments. I would, however, not recommend darfting collar pattern for adult garments using this technique. Draft jacket pattenrs on top of the shirt patterns according to above drawing. Please note that the jacket front pattern extends to the fold line of the shirt button extension, marked with letter B in the drawing. Letter A has been used to mark center front and C to mark the tip of the jacket lapel. In these instructions the distance between B and C is 2 cm (0.75 in) but you can set this to anything you like better. Point D is to mark the place where the lapel starts, it is up to you where to place it.

Straighten the sleeve cuff edge as done in the drawing. Measure the length of the back neck (Points / Set/Measure dist.). In this example the measurement is 7.3 cm (ca 3 in). Draw a line from point D to point E (Draw polygon / Line) and continue from there in the same direction (Draw polygon / Tangent line) as in the drawing. Measure on this line 7.3 cm (= the measured length of back neck) from E to F. You can use a circle as compasses (Draw circle). Pivot line E-F 2 cm clockwise (constant) (Edit rotate). Square out 6 cm from G to get point J.Distance G-H-J is the width of the collar of which G-H (2 cm) is the back collar standand H-J (4 cm) is the isible part of the collar. Then shape the rest of the collar as you want to.

If you want to see how the shape of the lapel and the collar will look when ready, cut the jacket shell and the collar with line D-E-F. Then mirror the pieces on top of the jacket front. Refer to the rawing to the right. If you do not like the shape, move the vertices of the mirrored lapel and/or collar pieces and mirror the altered pieces back to their original position and join the pieces to get new undivided front and collar patterns. You can read detailed instructions of how to do this in Excercise 23 in the Design Tutorial of this website. Sewing instructions are also included on this web site. To view them
Copyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki, Jarvenpaa, Finland

click here

Line Art & Yardage Information

MISSES' JUMPSUIT IN THREE LENGTHS AND SASH: Jumpsuits A, B, C, D, E have side front pockets, elastic casings and stitched hem; jumpsuit B has shoulder straps; jumpsuit C has sash; jumpsuits D, E have bodice with gathered shoulders, narrow hemmed armholes; jumpsuits A, D are thigh length; jumpsuit B above ankle length; jumpsuits C, E are floor length; optional purchased belt. NOTIONS: Thread; Jumpsuit A, B, C 23/4 Yds. of 1/2" Elastic; Jumpsuit D, E 11/4 Yds. of 1/2" Elastic. SUGGESTED FABRICS: Jumpsuit A, B, C, D, E - Lightweight Fabrics Such as Cotton Cotton Blends Challis Crepe Silk Rayon Gauze Cotton Knit Jersey. Additional Fabric may be needed to match stripes, plaids or one-way design fabric. *With Nap **Without Nap ***With or Without Nap

Combinations: AX5(4-6-8-10-12), EE(14-16-18-20) Fabric widths given in inches. SIZES 4 6 8 10 Jumpsuit A 45" *** 13/8 13/8 13/8 13/8 60" *** 1 1 1 1 Jumpsuit B 45" *** 21/8 21/8 21/8 21/4 60" *** 13/4 13/4 13/4 13/4 Jumpsuit and Sash C 45" *** 21/2 21/2 25/8 25/8 1 1 1 60" *** 2 /4 2 /4 2 /4 21/4 Jumpsuit D 45" *** 17/8 17/8 17/8 17/8 60" *** 13/8 13/8 13/8 13/8 Jumpsuit E 45" *** 23/4 23/4 23/4 23/4 60" *** 21/8 21/8 21/8 21/8 Fusible Interfacing D, E 18", 20", 5/8 yd. FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at bustline Jumpsuit A, B, C 351/2 361/2 371/2 381/2 Jumpsuit D, E 341/2 351/2 361/2 371/2 Measurement at hipline Jumpsuit A, B, C, D, E 37 38 39 40 Width, each leg Jumpsuit A, D 231/2 24 241/2 25 1 Jumpsuit B 21 21 /2 22 221/2 Jumpsuit C, E 201/2 21 211/2 22 Back length from base of your neck Jumpsuit A 291/4 291/2 293/4 30 Jumpsuit B 481/2 49 491/2 50 1 1 Jumpsuit C 57 /4 57 /2 573/4 58 Jumpsuit D 281/2 29 291/2 30 Jumpsuit E 561/2 57 571/2 58 Fabric widths given in centimeters. SIZES 4 6 8 Jumpsuit A 115cm*** 1.3 1.3 1.3 150cm*** 1.0 1.0 1.0 10 1.3 1.0 12 11/2 1 21/2 13/4 23/4 21/4 17/8 13/8 31/8 21/4 14 13/4 1 23/4 13/4 31/4 23/8 17/8 15/8 31/4 23/8 16 13/4 11/4 23/4 13/4 31/4 23/8 21/8 15/8 33/8 21/2 18 13/4 11/4 27/8 21/8 31/4 23/8 21/8 15/8 33/4 25/8 20 13/4 11/4 27/8 21/8 31/4 21/2 21/4 15/8 33/4 23/4 Yds. " Yds. " Yds. " Yds. " Yds. "

40 39 411/2 253/4 23 221/2 301/4 501/2 581/4 301/2 581/2 12 1.4 1.0

42 41 431/2 263/4 231/2 23 301/2 51 581/2 31 59 14 1.6 1.0

44 43 451/2 273/4 24 231/2 303/4 511/2 583/4 311/2 591/2 16 1.6 1.2

46 45 471/2 283/4 241/2 24 31 52 59 32 60 18 1.6 1.2

48 47 491/2 293/4 25 241/2 311/4 521/2 591/4 321/2 601/2 20 1.6 1.2

Ins. " " " " " " " " " "

m m

Jumpsuit B 115cm*** 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.1 150cm*** 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 Jumpsuit and Sash C 115cm*** 2.3 2.3 2.4 2.4 150cm*** 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.1 Jumpsuit D 115cm*** 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 150cm*** 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 Jumpsuit E 115cm*** 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.6 150cm*** 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Fusible Interfacing D, E 46, 51cm, 0.6m FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at bustline Jumpsuit A, B, C 90 93 95 98 Jumpsuit D, E 88 90 93 95 Measurement at hipline Jumpsuit A, B, C, D, E 94 97 99 102 Width, each leg Jumpsuit A, D 60 61 62 64 Jumpsuit B 54 55 56 57 Jumpsuit C, E 52 54 55 56 Back length from base of your neck Jumpsuit A 74 75 76 76 Jumpsuit B 123 125 126 127 Jumpsuit C 145 146 147 147 Jumpsuit D 72 74 75 76 Jumpsuit E 143 145 146 147

2.3 1.6 2.6 2.1 1.8 1.3 2.9 2.1

2.6 1.6 3.0 2.2 1.8 1.5 3.0 2.2

2.6 1.6 3.0 2.2 2.0 1.5 3.1 2.3

2.7 2.0 3.0 2.2 2.0 1.5 3.5 2.4

2.7 2.0 3.0 2.3 2.1 1.5 3.5 2.6

m m m m m m m m

102 99 105 66 59 57 77 128 148 78 149

107 104 110 68 60 59 78 130 149 79 150

112 109 116 71 61 60 78 131 149 80 151

117 115 121 73 62 61 79 132 150 81 152

122 120 126 76 64 62 80 133 150 83 154

cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm cm

How To Choose Your Correct Size

Before selecting your pattern size from the Standard Body Measurement Chart (left), please read the following on how to correctly measure yourself. How to Choose Your Correct Size: 1. Measure Your Body
Only basic body measurements are needed to determine your pattern type and size. Remember to wear proper undergarments and shoes when measuring. Also, make sure the tape measure is held snugly and firmly (not tightly) against your body and is always parallel to the floor for circumference measurements.

For Misses and Misses Petite: BUST- Measure around the fullest part of bust and straight across back (1) CHEST- around body above fullest part of bust (2) To determine your cup size you will need two measurements: BUST: Measure straight across the back over the fullest part of the bust. HIGH BUST: Measure across the back, high up under the arm and across top of bust. Deduct HIGH BUST measurement from BUST measurement for the difference. Using the DIFFERENCE measurement, find your cup size on the chart below.

Cup Size Chart Difference Up to 1" (2.5cm) Up to 2" (5cm) Up to 3" (7.5cm) Up to 4" (10cm) Cup Size A B C D

WAIST- around body at natural waistline (3)

HIP- around body at fullest partusually 7-9" (18-23cm) below waist (4) BACK WAIST LENGTH - from the most prominent bone at base of neck to the natural waistline (5) HEIGHT- measure (without shoes) standing against a wall For Junior, Women, Toddlers, Children and Girls: Take the same measurements as above, except eliminate Chest measurement. For Men and Boys: NECKBAND - around base of neck or buy shirt pattern by ready-made size (1) CHEST-around fullest part of chest (2) WAIST- at natural waist over shirt (3) HIP- at seat or fullest part of hip (4) SHIRT SLEEVE - from back base of neck across shoulder around bend of elbow to wrist (5) HEIGHT- measure (without shoes) standing against a wall

2. Select Your Size Category

Compare your height and body measurements to the measurement charts to select your size category.

3. Select Your Pattern Size

Pattern size is determined by your circumference (width) measurements. Again, refer to the Measurement Charts to select the size corresponding to the Bust, Waist and Hip measurements closest to your measurements. Here are some tips to help make your size selection easier:

For Dresses, Blouses, Tops, Vests, Jackets, and Coats, select size to correspond with your Bust/Chest measurement. Adjust the Waist and/or Hip, if necessary. If there is more than 2"(5cm) difference between your Bust and Chest measurement, select pattern size by your chest measurement, because you will achieve a better fit through your shoulders, chest and upper back; adjust the Bust if necessary.

For Skirts, Pants, Shorts, and Culottes, select size to correspond with your Waist measurement. Adjust the Hip, if necessary. If your Hips are much larger than your Waist, select the size closest to your Hip measurement and adjust the Waist. When purchasing a pattern that includes a Blouse, Jacket, Skirt and/or Pants, select size by your Bust/Chest measurement and adjust the Waist and/or Hips if necessary. If your measurements fall between two sizes, consider your bone structure. If you are thin and small-boned, choose the smaller of the two sizes. If you are larger boned, choose the larger size. Personal preference may also influence your size selection depending on whether you prefer a looser or a closer fit.

For Maternity patterns, select according to your measurements before pregnancy.