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VENT DE FOLIE SUR LA PTISSERIE

Theres nothing stodgy about the bright sparks breaking the
rules of traditional ptisserie in Paris, says Emma Beddington
Indigeste, la ptisserie traditionnelle ? Pas pour ces petits gnies
parisiens qui se jouent des codes, dcouvre Emma Beddington
Photography: Laura Stevens, Antoine Doyen
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VENT DE FOLIE SUR LA PTISSERIE
Theres nothing stodgy about the bright sparks breaking the
rules of traditional ptisserie in Paris, says Emma Beddington
Indigeste, la ptisserie traditionnelle ? Pas pour ces petits gnies
parisiens qui se jouent des codes, dcouvre Emma Beddington
Photography: Laura Stevens, Antoine Doyen
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MET0226-019 OMINIVORE_RockChefs F.indd 19 20/03/2013 11:45
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OMNIVORE
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tvtvot L:ts cnt and Paris boasts some of the
very best, but when and how did baking get so very
hip? Queues for the temples of haute ptisserie, Ladure
and Fauchon, go around the block and trends emerge
with bewildering speed: macarons are over, today its
choux buns, oh no, hang on, now its colourful clairs.
Baking has its own TV talent shows, bloggers
(parispatisseries.com and raids-patisseries.com are
excellent) and new openings are dissected obsessively in
the food media. But whats it like in the eye of the sweet
storm? We met four bakers bringing some rock n roll
attitude to Pariss sometimes stale ptisserie scene.
Tout le monde aime les gteaux, surtout Paris,
mais depuis quand la ptisserie est-elle si tendance ?
On fait la queue devant Ladure et Fauchon, on descend
par cars entiers chez Pierre Herm et les tendances se
succdent vitesse grand V : nis les macarons, place
aux choux (popelini.com)... dtrns linstant par les
clairs multicolores (leclairdegenie.com). Tl-ralit,
blogs (dont parispatisseries.com et raids-patisseries.
com), nouvelles adresses dissques dans les mdias
culinaires. Mais comment vit-on louragan de lintrieur ?
Nous avons rencontr quatre artisans un brin rocknroll
dcids dsencroter la ptisserie.
sastsu cauoano
Im not at all rock n roll, protests
Sbastien Gaudard darkly, but he sort of is,
because what he does is so deliberately and
perfectly retro. Hes created the Parisian
ptisserie of your dreams, all elegantly aged
mirrors and perfect geometric tiles. Its a
history of ptisserie brought to life. Lots of
people in the profession dont understand
what Im doing at all, says Gaudard, who
meticulously researches and revives long-lost
ptisseries in all their glory. The shop is no
cake museum, though: it hums with happy
customers, from mothers buying croissants to
elegant older women who remember Gaudard
at his parents bakery in the west of France
when he was this high.
22 rue des Martyrs, 75009, sebastiengaudard.fr
Je ne suis pas du tout rocknroll ,
proteste Sbastien Gaudard. Mais son travail
est si dlibrment et parfaitement rtro quil
lest un peu, quelque part. Il a cr la ptisserie
parisienne de vos rves, toute en miroirs
vieillis et carreaux gomtriques. Une histoire
de la ptisserie ramene la vie : Dans la
profession, rares sont ceux qui comprennent
ce que je fais , dit celui qui recre de
dlicieuses ptisseries dantan. Sa boutique na
pourtant rien dun muse du gteau : elle est
pleine dune clientle ravie de mamans venues
acheter des croissants ou dlgantes vieilles
dames se remmorant le petit Sbastien
haut comme a dans la boulangerie de ses
parents dans lOuest de la France.
MET0226-019 OMINIVORE_RockChefs F.indd 20 20/03/2013 11:45
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OMNIVORE
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He may look like hed be more at home
fronting an indie rock band than behind a
bakery counter, but baking is in his blood:
Gontran Cherrier is the fourth generation
of a Normandy baking dynasty. He travelled
the world and became a xture on French
food TV before opening his rst shop in
Montmartre: now he has three in Paris,
plus outposts in Singapore and Tokyo,
with more to come this year. The elegant,
white-tiled boutiques are a pretty faithful
interpretation of a classic boulangerie-
ptisserie, but there are plenty of reminders
of his travels in the products: the rye bread
with miso is hugely popular, and there are
other loaves seasoned with squid ink or
curry, and cakes with banana and yuzu.
22 rue Caulaincourt, 75018,
gontrancherrierboulanger.com
Avec son look, on limaginerait plus
chanteur dun groupe de rock, mais
la boulange, ce rejeton (quatrime
gnration, sil vous plat) dune dynastie
de boulangers normands a a dans le
sang. Dabord globe-trotter puis animateur
dmissions culinaires la tl franaise,
il a ensuite ouvert son premier magasin
Montmartre et en possde aujourdhui
trois Paris plus des adresses Singapour
et Tokyo. Des ouvertures sont prvues en
2013. Dans ses boutiques lgantes, le
carrelage blanc classique des boulangeries-
ptisseries traditionnelles ctoie des
produits souvent inspirs de ses voyages :
pain de seigle au miso, trs populaire, pains
lencre de seiche, au curry, ou gteaux
la banane et au yuzu.
MET0226-019 OMINIVORE_RockChefs F.indd 21 20/03/2013 11:46
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OMNIVORE
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Chez Bogato is a bakery designed specically for
children. Its a gloriously busy, bright red and
hot pink space, crammed with cowboy boot
piatas and giant jars of sweets. Then there are
the cakes: a skull-and-crossbones tart and a
perfect macaron burger (a chocolate ganache
burger on macaron bread with fresh raspberry
ketchup and mint-leaf salad). We have to
improvise, says owner Anas Olmer, a former
graphic designer who retrained as a ptissire and
opened Chez Bogato. We cut, we fold, we build
Its obviously working: as well as supplying hip
parents across Paris, Chez Bogato has produced
sweet treats for Dior, Chanel, Colette, Olympia
Le-Tan, Tommy Hilger and many more.
7 rue Liancourt, 75014, chezbogato.fr
Chez Bogato est une ptisserie 100 % ddie
aux enfants. Il y a dabord lespace, rouge et rose
ptard, o rgne une joyeuse animation, entre
piatas-bottes de cow-boy et bocaux de bonbons
gants. Puis les gteaux : tarte dcore dune
tte de mort ou macaron hamburger (burger
la ganache chocolat sur macaron garni de
ketchup la framboise frache et de menthe
en guise de salade). On improvise, explique
la propritaire Anas Olmer, ancienne graphiste
reconvertie en ptissire. On coupe, on plie, on
construit Et a marche : en plus de tout ce
que Paris compte de parents hypes, Dior, Chanel,
Colette, Olympia Le-Tan, Tommy Hilger et bien
dautres ont dj succomb aux douceurs de
Chez Bogato.
auas oLmsn
MET0226-019 OMINIVORE_RockChefs F.indd 22 20/03/2013 11:46
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OMNIVORE
Acide Macaron is a tiny white cube with
a giant neon gra ti tag on the wall and a
minimalist counter of jewel-bright macarons:
cornower blue (mint tea), metallic orange
(Acide Macarons signature passion fruit), or hot
fuchsia (bubblegum). Theyre tiny the idea is
that theyre made to be eaten in one bite and
subtler and less sweet than traditional macarons,
thanks to the transformative properties of a
dash of citric acid. Owner Jonathan Blot trained
with Alain Ducasse, and now he and his team
are producing over 15,000 macarons a week.
The original boutique has recently been joined
by a stylish teashop (24 rue des Moines,
75017), open from early morning, serving more
traditional ptisseries, but with an Acide twist.
72 rue Legendre, 75017, acidemacaron.com
Acide Macaron est un petit cube blanc
aux murs relevs dun gra ti uo gant. Sur
le comptoir minimaliste, des macarons aux
couleurs ashy : bleu pervenche (th la
menthe), orange mtallique (fruit de la passion,
saveur emblmatique de la maison), rose fuschia
(bubblegum) Des macarons tout minis, prvus
pour nen faire quune bouche, plus subtils et
moins sucrs que leurs homologues traditionnels
par la magie dune touche dacide citrique. Form
chez Alain Ducasse, le propritaire Jonathan
Blot produit aujourdhui avec son quipe plus de
15 000 macarons par semaine. Un salon de th
lgant ouvert tt le matin (24 rue des Moines,
75017) a rcemment rejoint la boutique avec
des ptisseries plus traditionnelles, revisites la
sauce Acide.

MET0226-019 OMINIVORE_RockChefs F.indd 23 20/03/2013 11:46