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SEA change for tourist industry

With the eyes of the world turning to Myanmar, the upcoming Southeast Asian Games may just be the galvanising event the countrys fledgling, overpriced tourism industry needs
Southeast Asian Games will provide for hospitality workers. The SEA Games was first held in 1959 and happens once every two years, with hosting duties shifting between ASEAN member countries (which currently number 11). Myanmar has hosted twice before, in 1961 (the second SEA Games ever, after Bangkoks inaugural event) and also in 1969 (the fifth edition). After a break of many decades, this upcoming tournament represents a return to the international spotlight for Myanmars athletes and their homeland. At the moment, Myanmars tourism sector is of interest internationally, said U Naung Naung Han, chairman of the Myanmar Travel Association. The number of tourists will rise this year because the SEA Games being held during tourist season in December. December is cooler, at least compared to the rest of the year, and with Myanmar already on many prestigious must-visit lists, many visitors from Europe and the USA booked their flights for peak tourist season three or four months ago. That means more seats will need to be made available for SEA Games traffic, U Naung Naung Han said. We need to run more flights during the SEA Games. For example, Thai Airways, Malaysia Airways, and Singapore Airways need to run more flights. According to Myanmar Airways International (MAI), there are plans for nine airbuses, with capacity for 180 people each, to be made available for charter hire for athletes and fans. What about after the planes touch down? The Ministry of Hotels and Tourism has 100 percent control over the price of hotel rooms in Nay Pyi Taw, said U Hla Moe, deputy director of the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism. But the ministry is reserving rooms for athletes and special guests of the SEA Games, not for regular visitors, said U Kyi Thein Ko, secretary of the Myanmar Tourism Federation. Still, he thinks its important to take special care of SEA Games visitors.

WA LONE
walone14@gmail.com

NY international sporting match is an important moment for the host countrys image. Analysts from the tourism sector said the Olympics in Beijing provided a huge boost to Chinas tourism sector, both during the games, as the world flocked to watch the worlds best athletes competing, and afterward, as those elsewhere made plans to visit some of the sites theyd learned about through their television sets. With Myanmar hosting the 27th SEA Games from December 11 to 22, the benefits are likewise sure to spill over from the sporting venues of Nay Pyi Taw, Yangon, Mandalay and Ngwe Saung beach. Long after the roar of the crowd fades, the country and tourists coming to explore it will continue to benefit from the training the upcoming

Tourists walk along the beach in Ngapali, Rakhine State. Photo: Soe Than Lynn

It wont be a bad result for Myanmars tourism sector. The ministry has to control the price of hotel rooms so as not to damage the countrys image, because hotels now running have no experience of [catering to] international events. I think it is good for the country to control the price of hotel rooms, said the owner of a travel agency, so our hotels dont get a bad reputation during the SEA Games. The travel agent added that the SEA Games wont bring a lot of profit in the short-term, but could bring good results in the future. He said hotels and taxis should not ask high prices during the Games, lest they risk giving the country a bad reputation and dissuading visitors from returning. Visas are another area where SEA Games traffic will need to be prioritised, but U Naung Naung Han said that there is no clear plan yet on how to issue entry visas quickly for athletes and fans. Myanmar signed an agreement with Laos in 2009 for entry visa exemption. Vietnamese visitors can get a 14-day entry visa starting from November 29, without needing to apply ahead of time. The deputy director general of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, U Sein Oo, recently announced in a state-run, KyayMone, newspaper saying that Myanmar will likely sign

agreements with Indonesia and Cambodia, and said Myanmar will seek to grant visa entry exemption for citizens of all ASEAN member countries. If fans want to come to Myanmar to cheer on their athletes to victory in the Games, the embassy will be able to issue visas promptly, and flights will be ready for them, U Naung Naung Han said. If there is a policy in place to grant arrival visas for visitors,we will have a lot of visitors. But currently there are just business visas available. This edition of the SEA Games will include 33 sports: Six will be hosted in Yangon, one in Mandalay, one in Ngwe Saung, and the rest in Nay Pyi Taw. But in August, the first Myanmar Football League match held in Nay Pyi Taws new football stadium set to host multiple SEA Games events drunken fans began destroying the stands. The ruckus raised concerns about whether local audiences and security forces would be mature enough to handle international matches. Security is important for the image of the SEA Games, said Daw Sabae Aung, owner of Nature Green travel agency. She said there should be breathalyser tests to make sure drunken fans dont disrupt events. Watching the game while drinking a lot can lead to a bad image for

TRAVEL N TOUR MYANMAR

The Myanmar Times Special Feature
Editor Myo Lwin Sub-editor Wade Guyitt Writers Wa Lone, Aung Shin, Su Phyo Win, Cherry Thein, Mya Kay Khine, Curtis S Chin, Thomas Kean, Douglas Long, Cliff Lonsdale, Myat Nyein Aye Design and Layout Tin Zaw Htway, Ko Pxyo, Khin Zaw Cover Photos Richard K Diran (from his book The Vanishing Tribes of Burma) Photographers Kaung Htet, Aung Htay Hlaing, Boothee, Soe Than Lynn, Myo Lwin, Mya Kay Khine, Douglas Long

For enquiries and feedback: myolwin@myanmartimes.com.mm

Tourism sector sees influx of travellers and cash

AUNG SHIN
koshumgtha@gmail.com

our country. That can damage the tourism sector. She added that the Myanmar tourism sector will get a boost from the SEA Games if the country can display a good image, show off its natural beauty, and offer good service and security to visitors. To make this happen, the government has divided up responsibility. The Ministry of Sports is directly supervising sports, venues and boarding, while the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism is looking after regular visitors. As part of the agreement, the Myanmar Restaurants Association (MRA) has taken on the duty of boarding special guests such as athletes, referees, coaches, observers at a special rate of $35 per day, said MRA vice chairman U Nay Lin. We are trying to show our country has good service for boarding, he said. To accommodate these visitors, 53 new hotels with 4200 rooms will be built in the Nay Pyi Taw hotel zone. Currently, 40 hotels are completed, and the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism has taken responsibility for getting the rest of the 11 hotels finished in time. One travel agent, however, said he was concerned with the setup, as other countries usually grant permits to private companies rather than controlling so many elements of the Games directly. He said skilled and experienced staff are required for an event of this size, and government planning via a centralised system, as well as limited staff skills, may lead to inconvenience due to delays in budget allocations. Some government staff have bad habits, said an authority from the Myanmar Travel Association. They think that they will get the same salary even if they dont try hard. Despite all these preparations, and despite the capped prices on hotels for SEA Games athletes and dignitaries, travel in Myanmar remains two or three times pricier

than equivalent trips in Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia or Thailand, travel analysts said. Charging high prices seems profitable at first, but if costs of travel in Myanmar stay high, they warn, it will put tourists off Myanmar and make it difficult for the country to compete in the future. As the saying goes, however, If you build it, they will come." If the SEA Games can produce the infrastructure, and if supply for flights and accommodations can come closer to meeting demand, that may make the market more competitive. And with any luck, the SEA Games will wind up more than a symbol of a more open Myanmar: It will be its true beginning.

Translation by Thiri Min Htun

DESPITE a few teething issues involving money transfers and visa systems, the hotels and tourism sector in Myanmar is seeing an unprecedented boom in investment. Myanmar has 859 hotels, motels and guest houses, with a total of 30,000 available rooms. That number is soon to increase, with hotel zone projects underway at Ngapali Beach in Rakhine State, Inle Lake in Shan State and in the area around Mandalay, including Bagan. Major international hotel players such as Accor of France, Hilton of the United States and Vietnams HAGL Group are looking to open new hotels in Myanmar. Figures from the Union of Myanmar Chambers of Commerce and Industry show foreign direct investment increased from last years US$1064 million to $1585 million this year, making the industry the fifth-largest sector by FDI. During a visit to Yangon by a Vietnamese delegation in mid-October, Minister of Public Security General Tran Dai Quang announced entrepreneurs from Vietnam alone have invested $300 million in Myanmars tourist industry. To September, more than 1 million people visited Myanmar in 2013, according to Vice President U Sai Mauk Kham, an increase of more than 58 percent over the same eight-month period last year. We expect more than 2

million will come this year, the vice president said during his address at a ceremony in Nay Pyi Taw commemorating World Tourism Day. The majority of visitors in 2013 so far are those from neighbouring countries on business or to meet government officials. The number of those here for tourism purposes has increased slightly over the previous years figures. The passenger lists to last September show 67,000 visitors from Thailand, 43,000 from Japan, 20,000 from France and 18,000 from the United Kingdom. Chinese travellers constitute the biggest portion. Myanmar expects the number of visitors will more than double in the next two years. But this figure tells but half the story of the countrys tourism industry. Workers in tourismrelated jobs hotel staff, travel service providers, transporters, restaurant workers, local handicraft makers also need to be operating swiftly and smoothly. The habits cultural and financial of visitors also make a difference in terms of how profitable a visit will be. For me personally, I dont expect 1000 travellers from China, said one member of the Myanmar Tourism Entrepreneurs Association. Instead, I will look for only 100 from Western countries. It is more valuable for the tourism industry. U Htun Myat, of the Myanmar Tour Guide Association, said guests from Western countries accept that they need pay prescribed taxes and the prescribed rates for tour guides

and need to stay at hotels that are officially registered. They also understand the socioenvironmental issues, U Htun Myat said. The countrys Tourism Master Plan was drawn up with the assistance of the Norwegian government and the Asia Development Bank. It was made public last June at the World Economic Forum in Nay Pyi Taw. The plan allots $500 million for development of infrastructure and training of the staff who provide services in the tourism sector. It also seeks to increase the number of annual visitors to 7 million by 2020 and to increase revenueto $10 billion. We will see both the good and bad sides of the developments, said Union Minister for Tourism U Htay Aung at the World Economic Forum. We will be doing our best in managing the industrys development. The immigration department has opened the border checkpoints for international travellers to promote tourism. More than 495,000 visitors came in through international airports and more than 535,000 came through border checkpoints from January to September this year. The government has signed agreements to institute a Smart Visa program along with Indonesia, the Phillippines and Cambodia, to ease travel between those nations. It also plans to extend its visas-on-arrival scheme on October 26. With Myanmar hosting the SEA Games in December and taking over as chair of ASEAN, no doubt these changes are only the beginning.

They came, they saw, they commented

Last year nearly 350,000 international travellers visited Yangon's famous Shwedagon Pagoda. The Myanmar Times' reporter Su Phyo Win chatted with four recent visitors about their experiences in Myanmar
Jos Martinez Mexico Its pretty safe here. I feel safe because people are really helpful and friendly. Although language is a barrier, they try to help. I do want to share one thing: Always have the address where you want to go, because travelling around here, people dont speak English and its very hard to tell them. So if you have the address to show it to them, or a map, its easier. And the other very important thing is to bring good dollars. The bills have to be in good condition in order to exchange because if a bill is not in good condition they wont take it. Nobody knows this [outside]. Ive seen in the airport a lot of people waiting because they didnt bring good dollars. Thats weird. The other thing is you need to be prepared in terms of money because you may not find places to change money easily, or ATM machines. They dont take credit cards anywhere so we have to bring enough cash to travel. Although you need to carry a lot of cash here, so far I havent seen anyone talk of being robbed for money. If your bag is full of cash, you can go around with the money anytime. So thats the good thing. Keep it that way. Kwasi Adjei United Kingdom This is my first time to Myanmar but what I heard before I came here is that its a very safe place to come. There is hardly any crime. At night you feel safe to walk around. One of the things I would probably say is make sure that you wear shorts because its very hot here. And if you are travelling here from Western Europe, such as London, take a lot of books, a lot of water, because the flight is very long. It takes 13 hours from London to Singapore then 3 hours from Singapore to Yangon. So its a very, very long journey. We dont have many difficulties here because people are very nice and kind. They greet everyone very warmly and speak as much as they can. I think sometimes the transport, if you are travelling from here to Mandalay, takes a little bit longer than you would want to spend. But I think when you come to a country you are here to experience the culture, understand the people and understandhow the people here live. The other reason why tourists should come here is people. The people are very nice. There is a lot of authenticity; its real. If you come here you can experience the real life. Thats the reason I chose to come here to visit Myanmar. Hans Hallam Norway I feel very safe travelling here in Yangon but the road could probably be a little bit safer. Myanmar is very much what you would expect, given the history and what happenedvery recently. There are a lot of people who want to come here so its expected things will be a little rough and maybe a little more expensive than what you would initially expect, because prices are going up quite high. Theres a lot more to Myanmar than Yangon, so go and see Bagan, Mandalay, Taungoo, as well as Taungyi and Pathein, and you will get a much better picture of the country. Go out and see as much as possible because theres so much to see here: the nature, all of the religious pagodas. Also, learn a little bit about the culture and how to behave before you come here because this is still quite an old-fashioned environment in some regards, so people expect such behaviour. I think many Westerners could learn a little bit about how to behaviour. I havent been to Kachin and Rakhine states but there is trouble to be had in every single country. I think if you go carefully you will be safe anywhere. Just be wise and be smart. Come here and see it, absolutely. This is a chance for people in the next few years to see something thats very unique. Not many people have seen this. And in five years times itll be very different. So if you want to see it, the way it has been for many years, you have to come very soon. Merel Burgering The Netherlands I think its a very nice country. People are so friendly. Well, I think some little things are strange. When I see the bells outside the apartments not just the bells, but also the ropes to get things upstairs its very funny for me. And also that you drive on the right side and the food is very different. I had Burmese tea leaves; that was very nice. I have never had such a thing before. About the safety factor, I think we have to be careful. I feel like most people, especially here, in general have good intentions. But people who want to come here should prepare to learn a little bit about the streets and the culture, and also the background Myanmar has.

On the water or underground, an argument for eco-friendly tourism

A wave of development is threatening to sweep away the natural state of the areas residents love and tourists wish to see
villages are threatened by the very modernisation and development that visitors bring with them. While the tourism industry competes with itself to achieve higher profiles and profits, it neglects that such work is leading to water, air, soil and noise pollution in the lake. I dont like the number of hotels increasing on the lake, Ko Tin Hlaing Win said. The companies said establishing hotels and tourism is best for the development of Inle and Inthas, but I am doubting it. Is it really for us or for them? In past years, he said, when water levels of the lake dropped, the Intha were criticised for their overuse of fertilisers. But nobody mentioned the effects of the extension of a more modern lifestyle facilitated by hotels and tourism. I am not pessimistic about tourism but why cant they promote it without harming the cultural, social and natural phenomena? U Saw George Shey, spokesperson of Sweet Smile Travel and Tours Agency in Yangon, said that the alternative to a tourism which changes the very thing it seeks to witness is ecotourism, a more careful kind of travel that involves reducing the impact on the environment as much as possible, and safeguarding society, the environment and culture in its natural state. It is not necessary to remake
Two residents row on Inle Lake, which stands at 2900 feet (880 metres) above sea level in Shan State. Photo: Myo Lwin

CHERRY THEIN
t.cherry6@gmail.com

S it necessary to destroy Inle Lake to develop residential areas around the popular tourist destination in Shan State? That was the question Ko Tin Hlaing Win asked me. Hes an Intha, a resident of the lake; he was taking me on an hour-long boat trip of the waters so familiar to him. To quote Keats, A thing of beauty is a joy forever, and Inle Lake is that to me. But then Ko Tin Hlaing Win pointed out something I hadnt noticed: some bushes floating in the middle of lake. Theyre indicators of the destruction happening just out of view, he said: Developers are pulling down the mountains around the lake to launch the hotel zone. The floating bushes are a sign that all is not right in Inle Lake. The ecosystem around the lake has always acted as a buffer, keeping it in relative equilibrium. But the Intha are worried about the effects of the highway that now encircles the lake: It saves travel time but also brings invaders to their homeland. The unique traditional culture and customs of Inle which are so attractive to visitors rowing oars with one foot, living in floating

the environment in order to develop it, he said. He said while natures gifts are irretrievable once lost, the tourism industry tends toward destructive forms of development. He said it is time to think about creating new ways to promote the countrys natural wonders, in a way that will see them sustained into the future. There are many different kinds of ecotourism sites in the country but people arent aware of them because their ideas lead them to make new forms [of attractions] rather than preserving and dramatising these places, U Saw

We need to develop humanity, sympathy and loving kindness for the sustainable development business. Daw Lu Lu
George Shey said. There are many places to make money without ruining the original area but people need to know about them, he said. The countrys transition to democracy means members of the public have more chances to express their needs and wants. Authorities should listen to peoples voices and negotiate with them to find win-win policies, he said, because compromise is best

when negotiating with local people to establish new tourism sites. U Saw George Shey said projects should also provide job opportunities for local residents, to prevent internal migration by allowing them to earn a good living in their own areas. Daw Lu Lu, a spokesperson from Klo-Star Travel and Tours in Yangon, said the first step in promoting ecotourism is to learn from locals and persuade them to invest their interest and participation in working as part of a village guide program. As I take field trips to new places to arrange tour packages, I spend more time with local people than I do showing my own tourism expertise. I can learn about the place from their local wisdom until I have learned as much as they know, Daw Lu Lu said. Most people she encounters are well-meaning, well-informed and happy to share their knowledge of, and hopes for, their region, she said, but there are also some ignorant people who dont know how to promote the special features of their areas. In this case, it is necessary to give training to raise awareness on the special gifts their region offers. The training should focus on maintaining natural, cultural and social values, Daw Lu Lu said. Nobody wants to be exploited, Daw Lu Lu said. We need to

develop humanity, sympathy and loving kindness for the sustainable development business. U San Win, a retired official from the Ministry of Cultures Department of Historical Research, said the development of a particular place mainly depends on the interest of and in the local people. He gave the example of Mon and Kayin states, where culture has been neglected by some developers, more interested in profits than in traditional customs. But he also said that, over the past three months, the Mon State government has been cooperating with a private tourism company to train village guides in 10 townships, so that local people will know how to promote ecotourism. The ancient cities of Suvannabhumi, evidence of which has been found under the modern city of Thaton in Mon State, show the need for sensitivity in development (see related story on page 13). The most important thing is we need to preserve the original structure of the underground network of architecture before it gets destroyed for new hotel projects, U San Win said. The lesson for developers everywhere? Theres always something of importance under your feet, whether its the ruins of an ancient kingdom or a delicate ecosystem like that of Inle Lake.

In the dry zone, an oasis of cool

Visitors to Mount Popa often really mean Popa Taung Kalat, a natural viewing area for the regions geological splendour

MYA KAY KHINE

ANY visitors drawn to Bagans ancient temples may not be aware there is another, more natural attraction close by: Mount Popa, an extinct volcano. The surrounding area is arid, part of Myanmars hottest region. But Mount Popa itself is a cool oasis, with lower-than-expected temperatures. The mountain is topped with a caldera, a large crater left behind when the mouth of the volcano erupted then collapsed. Called Taung Ma-Gyi, or Mother Hill, this peak is both a draw and a challenge for visitors, as the mountain is so steep and difficult to climb that few attempt to do so. The climb takes three hours and there are no restaurants or rest stops, so a visit isnt advised unless you know what youre up against. Mother Hill is so steep, said Maung Myo Min Hlaing, who climbed it two years ago. Girls cant climb up there. When I was a college student, I climbed up Mother Hill with my friends. But all the girls gave up after a little while. We boys continued up to the top. When most visitors talk about a visit to Mount Popa, therefore, theyre usually talking about a trip to see the mountain, not to climb it. One popular viewpoint is Popa Taung Kalat, an elevated but more visitor-friendly area. Visitors climb up Mother Hill rarely, said U Kan Hla, a retired middle school headmaster who now heads the Mount Popa Pagoda board of trustees. He said residents living nearby climb Mother Hill on significant days like Christmas and Myanmar New Years Day, but large crowds mean the animals get scared away and the trail becomes too dense to navigate safely. Instead, he said, its best to take a different route. Visitors put up at the Popa Resort which was opened by Htoo Trading Company at the foot of Popa hill and they climb up Taung Kalat. Popa Taung Kalat translates to the mountain shaped like a club. Seen from far away, this hill looks like small circular tray with a stem, the kind you would put food and flowers on. Its appropriate, given

International travellers take pictures from Popa Taung Kalat (top), which is more visitor-friendly than Popa's Mother Hill, visible in the distance. Photo: Mya Kay Khine

that the top of Popa Taung Kalat has a monastery on it. And its safe: Well-built wide staircases with sturdy metal rails and dedicated lanes depending on whether youre going up or coming down keep you from feeling endangered.

From the top of Popa Taung Kalat one can enjoy a panoramic view of the area, including Mother Hill and, far off, Bagan. But Popa Taung Kalat isnt just a means to an end. As I found on a recent trip, its also a rewarding experience itself. Most visitors who come from

different places put in at Nyaung Oo so that they can visit Bagan after visiting Mount Popa. But after arriving in Nyaung Oo at 6am, I continued straight on to Popa with a friend of a friend, Ko Chit Ko Ko. He had been there before and was dressed appropriately, but when

I left Yangon the night before the weather had been so hot that I had forgotten to bring some warm clothes with me. The foot of Popa hill is about 12 kilometres (45 miles) from Naung Oo. On the back of a motorbike, thats about a three-hour ride. With the constant cool wind blowing, it becomes very cold. I had to borrow a warm clothes from Ko Chit Ko Ko to keep warm. When arriving at the foot of Popa hill, we could see people selling flowers for visitors to offer at the pagoda above. They were also selling food for the hills other main attraction: the Macaque monkeys that live on the mountain (see facing page). Monkey-food selling isnt allowed on the way up the hill, but during the half-hour climb we saw plenty of other visitors, both locals and foreigners, as well as traditional cotton cloth shops, thanakha shops and gift shops. Along the stairs we also saw shrines devoted to the resident nat spirits: two princes, elder brother Byatwi and younger brother Byatta, as well as their mother. We also saw a number of statues, in various styles and sizes, of U Aung Min Khaung. He was a spiritual guru who passed away in 1952 but whose spirit people believe has passed on to another body. People believe that he brought good health and riches to people who came to him for help. Popa Taung Kalat is usually open from 4am to 10pm, seven days a week. But starting five days before a festival to celebrate U Aung Min Kyaung, held on the second day after the full moon that happens during late September or early October, the climb is open all night. Popa Taung Kalat sees the most visitors during the annual U Aung Min Khaung festival, as well as on Myanmar New Years Day. The 50th anniversary of the U Aung Min Khaung festival drew extra-large crowds. Last month was the 61st festival. On average, about 1500-2000 foreigners visit Popa a month, said U Kan Hla. But they dont visit regularly when its crowded with local visitors. They always visit here during the open season. He said more foreigners had visited this year than before. I think this is because of the SEA Games. Expecting more visitors in future, U Kan Hla said the board has a plan to add another four security cameras along the road, in addition to the four along the stairway, and also to build a resort catering to foreigners in early 2014, with air-conditioned restaurants and special toilets. But Popa Taung Kalat already has restaurants with many kinds of food and drink. It also has natural air conditioning. At 737 metres (2417 feet) above sea level, the winds were so cold I couldnt take off the warm clothes Id borrowed. But they werent so cold as to prevent me from enjoying the view.

Monkey business
The Macaque monkeys of Popa Taung Kalat are mischievous and mesmerising just make sure to keep your bag well-zipped
carrying sellers of flowers and monkey food in the area. They are separated into groups of 50, with each group allowed to sell for three days and then giving up their spot to the next group in the rotation. We dont allow students to sell but there are some children who help their parents during school holiday times, said U Kan Hla. Mg Htet Aung Kyaw, 10, is in Grade-V. Hes the youngest of three siblings. The childrens father died when Mg Htet Aung Kyaw was 5 years old. Hes won top marks in his school since the first grade, but on the weekends he sells monkey food to help his mother put meals on their own table. I sell only Sunday and Saturday. I earn K5000-K6000 a day, he said. My elder brother and elder sister help at our aunts

MYA KAY KHINE

mya.simplefly@gmail.com

E hadnt even started up Popa Taung Kalat and already we were being swarmed not by monkeys, but by people selling food for them. There are about 2000 monkeys in the area, said U Kan Hla, head of the Mount Popa Pagoda Administration. But when too many people are around theyll get spooked, he said, which is why the food sellers and the flowersellers, for pilgrims wishing to making offerings are permitted on the bottom of the hill only. There are 375 authorised, card-

Visitor-friendly monkeys beg pilgrims for food on the stairway of Popa Taung Kalat. Photo: Mya Kay Khine

A money poses for a picture on the way up Popa Taung Kalat in central Myanmar. The pagoda board of trustees estimates about 2000 such monkeys live nearby. Photo: Mya Kay Khine

shop [also on the hill], which sells medicinal roots and cosmetic things. Ma Htu Htu Mar, 17, has sold monkey food to visitors since last year. She left school after Grade-VIII, unable to afford it any longer. Popa residents dont farm, she said: All depend on the mountain and the visitors who come to see it, by selling gifts, monkey food, flowers and so on. She said during the annual U Aung Min Kyaung festival recently she made more than K100,000. When she needs to buy more food she travels to Kyauk Pataung, leaving Popa at 6am and travelling 16 kilometres (10 miles). She buys 5-10 pyi (1 pyi equals about 2.5 litres, an amount that will last about two weeks). The monkeys also eat peanuts, but chickpeas last longer, so most sellers choose them. She returns to Popa at 8am in time to start selling. All the sellers pack the food in

pieces of paper rolled into a cone shape. Ten cones cost K1000. The shape is to hide the food from the monkeys sight until youre ready to feed them, because otherwise they will take by force whatever they see. We had packed away our food and evaded the hordes of monkeys as we climbed, but some began to take the flowers we were carrying up to offer at the pagoda. People then warned us that the monkeys like bunches of green flowers. So we put these flowers into our bags as well. When we were halfway up the hill, the monkeys were few and far between, so we took out the cones of food and began to feed them. I laughed when my friend shouted in fear when one came up to him. But while (in truth) I wanted to take more photos, I was afraid to get too close to them myself. Not that I had any choice in the matter. One of the monkeys came up to me, stood up on his hind feet, and reached out to try

to unzip the zipper of my shoulder bag. No, I said, holding up my hands. I dont have anything. It seemed to get the message and gave up on the search. Eventually we ran out of food and moved on. For the rest of our climb, and in between photos of the incredible view from the top, we laughed and talked about these incredible, mesmerising creatures. We couldnt believe a monkey had unzipped my bag, just like an inquisitive little child looking for a snack. But on the way back down, we threw the food more quickly, and only to mother monkeys with their young. And each time we became surrounded by larger gangs of monkeys, we would hold our hands up, to show they were empty, and then they would let us go. To someone passing by, it would have looked as if those monkeys were trying to rob us which, in a way, perhaps they were.

The journey forward

Business may be booming in Yangon and Bagan, but former US Ambassador Curtis S Chin asks visitors to consider the reality of the road ahead for Myanmar, beyond the official tourism images
money raised and used is well spent. This is particularly relevant at a time of limited resources and with the re-emergence of Myanmar as a key destination for business, government and vacationers. Ongoing reforms are being shaped by vested interests and will dramatically impact the tourism sector for better and for worse for decades to come. Myanmar is already facing significant challenges, which are not coming from a lack of tourists but from insufficient infrastructure, such as an inadequate number of hotel rooms and lack of flight connections. A recent report noted that large percentages of visitors had negative perceptions of Myanmar to me and others from the United States and Europe who paid heed to Aung San Suu Kyi and others who supported a range of US and European sanctions. But today, visitors from all walks of life business travellers, development bankers, aid workers and tourists -- are back with a vengeance. United States President Barack Obama included Myanmar on his first overseas visit since winning re-election in November 2012, and more than a million international arrivals are now expected annually. No longer restricted by US policy, I too have now journeyed throughout the country, focusing on visiting places once cut off to sanctions-observing

CURTIS S CHIN
riverpeakgroup@gmail.com

ECENT sectarian violence not far from one of Myanmars top beach destinations in Rakhine State underscores something that those of us who have worked in development and communications have long known:Pretty pictures and carefully staged commercials cannot cover up persistent inequalities and economic constraints. Doing so undercuts any nations tourism industry in the long run. India may be Incredible, Thailand may be Amazing and Malaysia may well be Truly Asia (or so their tourism campaigns proclaim) but at what cost? A recently developed tourism campaign will ask Myanmars visitors to Join the Journey and is intended as one government official said to help change the countrys image. Tourism campaigns must be research-based, with clear goals and measurements of effectiveness that will help governments, industry partners and funders determine if

A woman displays an owl for sale on U Bein Bridge in Mandalay. Photo: Staff

Myanmar has work to do before it can sell itself authentically to the world
with regards to value for money, referencing accommodations as well as cleanliness. I served for four- and- a half years as the ambassador of the United States of America to the Asian Development Bank (ADB), which is a regional, Manila-based financial institution focused on poverty reduction and economic growth. During that time, exploring Myanmar was pretty much off limits visitors, exploring the floating gardens ofInle Lake and the ancient Buddhist stupas in Mrauk Oo and Bagan. My very first trip outside Yangon brought me to Mandalay, the last home of Myanmars former king and queen before the British exiled them to colonial India. The ancient moat and walls that once surrounded the fabled Glass Palace still remain, as does the enduring beauty of views

from Mandalay Hill. Mandalay is also a thriving commercial centre and home to Buddhist pilgrimage sites and many of the nations traditional arts and crafts artisans. The mainland Chinese business community is also a very visible presence in the city, with one floor of at least one major hotel being taken over by Chinese oil and gas interests. Subsequent trips have taken me to Nay Pyi Taw, to participate in government-hosted forums on the nations tourism industry, and to Yangon, where I spoke to a class of young students about the challenge of addressing environmental concerns while promoting economic development. In this beautiful but long cut-off nation, the students were eager to listen, to share and to learn about the world around them. Myanmar has work to do before it can sell itself authentically to the world. With more travellers making their way to the country, the government and industry must work together to address visitor concerns about overpriced and insufficient accommodation. Infrastructure investments in areas from roads to water and electricity will also be critical. Concerted efforts must be taken to address what I call the threat to the tourism sector of the little BRICs, namely bureaucracy, regulation, interventionism by government, and corruption. Every visitor can play a role. Whether they are independent travellers from elsewhere in Southeast Asia or part of a tour group from Europe or the United States, I would encourage them, as I have, to also begin to build a better understanding of the many challenges that still lie ahead for Myanmar. Regardless of their reasons for visiting, travellers should continue to think through how and where they spend their money and its impact. Amazing destinations and a welcoming people await travellers to Myanmar, be it at Kyaiktiyo a small but stunning pagoda balanced somewhat miraculously on a massive boulder covered in gold leaf by Buddhist pilgrims or the simple sights and sounds of a bustling morning market, a street full of bananas, custard apples and other tropical fruit. To the degree possible, visitors should engage with people from all walks of life and look beyond the nations spectacular sights. They should contemplate the challenges

and necessary changes that still lie ahead, and how one can contribute. Consider, for example, supporting community-based tourism and speaking up for the preservation and revitalisation of the nations many beautiful, but crumbling, heritage buildings. Ultimately, it will take a strong rule of law and an engaged private sector to drive and sustain job creation and economic growth in Myanmar, which includes its nascent tourism sector. Business and vacation travellers can be part of that long-term story. My hope is that travellers to Myanmar will take the time to look, to listen and to learn, and more than that, to join in the journey to build a more peaceful and prosperous nation. Not that far from Myanmar, as the bird flies, is the country of Bhutan. Dhamey Norgay, the son of pioneering climber Tenzing Norgay, who, along with Sir Edmund Hillary first successfully sumitted Everest some 50 years ago, told me once that the Himalayan region needs more noble travellers these days. That is, travellers who are more than sightseers and who are respectful of a nations culture, people who are mindful of their impact and are willing to learn and explore. Coming from Bhutan, which attracts far fewer visitors than Myanmar, Dhameys words are particularly important. This last Buddhist kingdom in the Himalaya happiness is a place as its tourism slogan proclaims has forged its own unique tourism path forward, slowly opening to the world in order to seek the economic benefits of tourism while minimising negative impacts on the nations environment, people and culture. That challenge is now also clearly Myanmars. No ad campaign can disguise reality, even as it successfully captures the beauty and many wonders of this beautiful golden land.

Curtis S Chin served as the US Ambassador to the Asian Development Bank under US President Barack Obama and President George W Bush (2007-2010).He is managing director of the advisory firm River Peak Group, LLC.

Show us the tourism money

Launched to much media attention, Myanmars Tourism Master Plan has struggled to attract financial support. Experts say theres no reason to worry yet
havent decided which one yet, U Myint Tun U said. The government has invited other countries to also provide assistance for master plan projects. So far there have been few takers, although the report was only officially launched on September 27 to coincide with World Tourism Day. Curtis Chin, a former US ambassador to the Asian Development Bank who attended a ministry-organised tourism forum that accompanied the launch, said it was unclear where, if anywhere, the money was coming from for the priority projects. Money will dictate for better and for worse what actually gets done and whether this master plan simply sits in desk drawers and on bookshelves, said Mr Chin, who is managing director of advisory firm RiverPeak Group. Donor nations are more likely to be supportive of capacity building and educational initiatives than funding projects that are better suited to the private sector. But does the lack of pledged funding mean the plan is doomed to fail? Not necessarily. Sean Turnell, an associate professor of economics at Sydneys Macquarie University, said the private sector would likely help meet much of the costs given the tourism industrys potential to yield quick and high returns. In my view tourism is one of those few sectors that will, with fairly minimal encouragement and government support, attract all the funds that it needs from the private sector, he said. As far as government goes, the real issue is likely to be ways to shape tourism that maximises only minimal funding as little as $200,000. The priority project total is deceptive, as almost threequarters of the $215.6 million is taken up by a single project: facilities for hosting large national and international functions in Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan and Inle Lake, at an estimated cost of $160 million. Steven Schipani, a social sector specialist from the Asian Development Banks Thailand office, said this is expected to draw interest from the private sector. Some of the projects, such as construction of meeting and convention facilities, would typically be financed by the private sector, or as a public-private partnership. I understand some bilateral development partners have expressed initial interest in financing technical and vocational training and education, he said. But there is more to the plan than simply attracting funding, he said. It is very forward-looking and shows the commitment of the government to try and set things right from the outset, Mr Schipani said. Setting the correct tone at this point is tremendously important. Mr Turnell said the plan would likely improve coordination in the sector but cautioned that the industrys development is unlikely to stick to a clearly mapped-out trajectory. Master plans and the like are useful for focusing attention, coordinating departments, agencies and so on, he said. But tourism is one of those atomistic sectors that is probably never much amenable to planning.

THOMAS KEAN
tdkean@gmail.com

HEN Myanmars Tourism Master Plan was released to much fanfare during the World Economic Forum on East Asia in June, most reports focused on the dollar figure: US$500 million. Less was said about where the money would come from and there has hardly been a rush to provide it. Four months on, barely 1 percent of the total has been pledged by donors. Nothing has come from the private sector and the government seems unlikely to cover much of the cost from the national budget. The plan outlined 38 strategic projects to be implemented between 2013 and 2020 at an estimated cost of $486.6 million, covering everything from the establishment of a tourism university in Yangon to overhauling the tourism law. Of these, 21 are designated priority projects, with a combined estimated cost of $215.6 million, and are described as critical to the successful implementation of the master plan. The first of these will get under way in early 2014 with funding from Luxembourg, said U Myint Tun U, an information officer in the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism. The tiny European country has pledged an outsized 5 million euros ($6.2 million) for human resources development programs. Japan International Cooperation Agency [JICA] has also agreed to help fund one project but they

$487
Estimated budget for projects in Tourism Master Plan

MILLION

its employment potential, while minimising the cultural and other externalities that might develop from the emergence of a Patpong Road phenomenon, he said, referring to a notorious area of Bangkok (see page 15). A number of the projects, particularly surveys, studies and regulatory reform, will require

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Night on a mountain of myths

Though still well off the beaten track, Thandaung Gyi in Kayin State stands to attract increasing numbers of foreign tourists with its mix of natural beauty, quirky legends and newfound tranquillity
during which soldiers from the Myanmar army sought to occupy the rugged mountaintop for strategic purposes. According to regional lore, heavenly forces, displeased with the presence of wicked minions of the unholy military government, cast lightning bolts down on the peak, sending the soldiers scurrying for lower ground, never to return. Naw Bu Baws Mountain, as it is known locally, is now topped by what must be one of the biggest Christian crosses in Myanmar. Just below the peak lies a guest house run by the Zion Hill Baptist Church, and from there a stairway with 374 steps climbs to the mountaintop cross, which was erected in 1995. Along the way are small prayer rooms for solitude-seeking pilgrims, and there is an odd boat-shaped chapel on the peak, evoking the biblical tale of Noahs ark. A small blue sign indicates the precariously positioned rock on which Naw Bu Baws witchcraft trial took place. In September I spent one night at the Zion Hill Church guest house, an endeavour that required a fair bit of persistence from me and my two Myanmar travel companions. This is because Thandaung Gyi nestled in a mountainous area that once served as a battleground between the Myanmar army and Kayin rebels has only been open to tourists since early this year, and some local officials are still confused about how to deal with foreigners, especially those who try to stay in town after dark. Thandaung Gyi is located 44 kilometres (27 miles) east of Taungoo, and I covered the distance between the two towns in about
Curved roads lead up to Thandaung. Photo: Douglas Long

DOUGLAS LONG
dlong125@gmail.com

HE old British hill station of Thandaung Gyi in Kayin State boasts the kind of dramatic setting out of which strange legends are born. On the edge of town juts the highest point in the Dawparkho Range, a craggy 1462-metre (4824-foot) peak that on clear days provides great views of forestcovered mountains in all directions. But the weather patterns are unstable, and shifting winds often push low-lying clouds across the mountaintop. Visitors can suddenly find themselves stranded in the middle of a storm or enshrouded in thick mist that reduces visibility to mere metres and deadens all sound. Given the eerie ambiance, its little wonder the peak is the focal point of an ancient tale, about a princess named Naw Bu Baw who moved to these mountains from the sea to marry a local prince. Naw Bu Baws status as a foreigner, plus the fact that she owned a magical comb that made her hair shine like the sun and gave her powers of invisibility, caused the local Kayin people to accuse her of being a witch. When her husband died in battle, the Kayin dragged her to the high peak, put her on trial and imprisoned her in a rock cavern, where she was devoured by hungry spirits. Skip forward to the junta era,

Shwe Thandaung Resort at Thandaung Lay. Photo: Douglas Long

three hours on my bicycle while my friends travelled by car. We left early in the morning, crossing the Sittaung River just east of Taungoo and following a road that took us past paddy fields and through a series of Kayin and Bamar villages. After 10 kilometres, the flat terrain gave way to rolling hills and dense deciduous forestland, and at 21 kilometres we rolled into Thandaung Lay. This is a relatively new town, established in 1959 as the townships new administrative centre; the former capital, Thandaung Gyi, was thought to be too remote. Thandaung Lay is home to Shwe Thandaung Resort, and we stopped there for a mid-morning break. It sits along the bank of the roiling, monsoon-swollen Pathi Creek on 100 acres of shady land that doubles as a

20,000-tree betel nut plantation. When we arrived at the resort which is open for business but requires some renovation to raise the accommodation to international standards the idle staff jumped at the opportunity to ply us with orange soda, barbecued deer meat and deliciously spicy Kayin papaya salad. From Thandaung Lay, the narrow road climbed steeply for 23 kilometres all the way to Thandaung Gyi. Ive travelled to many of Myanmars farthest corners, and this was easily one of the most stunning stretches of road Ive encountered anywhere in the country. Each switchback through the tree-covered mountains offered fresh vistas more breathtaking than the last. There were no cars, few

motorcycles and only a couple of Kayin villages along the way. We also passed one or two ratty compounds protected by bamboo spikes; they looked like zoo enclosures built by someone who hates animals, but they were actually military outposts manned by soldiers from the Myanmar army. We reached Thandaung Gyi before noon. I packed my bicycle in my friends car, and we headed for the residence of the family that runs Zion Hill Church. They insisted that we join them for lunch a mix of Bamar and Kayin dishes, including a hearty soup made with rice, pork and herbs from the forest and then escorted us to the guest house on the slopes of Naw Bu Baws Mountain above town. We settled into the big common room where we would be sleeping, then climbed the 374 steps to the cross at the peak, enjoying the beauty of drifting clouds and sunlight at play among the endless green hills. It wasnt long before the weather took a turn for the worse. Dark, low clouds appeared from nowhere and swept over us, bringing a veil of icy rain. We retreated to the guest house and sat on the balcony waiting for the downpour to end. Sure enough, the poor conditions soon passed, giving way once again to a mix of sun and white clouds. In the afternoon we drove down into town to have a look around. We stopped at a shop on the main street to buy snacks and drink a few bottles of beer something I had been looking forward to during the long, hot bike ride up the mountain. Across the road, young men were playing football on what was possibly the worst pitch in the world: Earlier in the day we had seen cows grazing and defecating in the low-lying field, which was also waterlogged after four months of monsoon rain. The players were running around barefoot as they pursued the ball, slipping and sliding in the gooey mud-and-cow-patty slop. The shop was run by Daw Suu, an elderly woman of Nepalese descent whose grandparents had moved to

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Further information
As might be expected of a place only recently opened to foreign travellers, Thandaung Gyi lacks big-ticket tourist draws: There are no ancient, sky-piercing pagodas, no lacquerware workshops staffed by demure Burmese damsels, no unintentionally hilarious drug elimination museums, nor any mediocre business hotels misleadingly marketed as luxury accommodation. What it does offer is natural beauty and the chance to visit a town that was once off-limits due to fierce fighting between the Myanmar government and ethnic rebels, but is now a peaceful mountain retreat for its Kayin and Nepalese residents. Getting to Thandaung Gyi is not as easy as reaching Bagan or Inle Lake. Private transport is required from Taungoo, and there are two checkpoints on the way that are staffed by easily confused immigration officials. Your chances of being happily waved through will increase if you bring multiple photocopies of your passport and visa. Theres no clear consensus on whether spending the night in Thandaung Gyi is actually permitted for foreigners. Some visitors have been allowed to stay, while others have been sent back at sundown. Its worth trying to stay the night (if you can handle the nofrills accommodation), but be prepared for a same-day 44km journey back to the lowlands if permission is denied.

The stairs to the peak of Naw Bu Baws Mountain are dotted with prayer chapels. Photo: Douglas Long

the hill station in 1915 to oversee a factory that processed locally grown tea for shipment to Lipton in the United Kingdom. Thandaung Gyi remains a centre for the cultivation of tea as well as coffee, betel nut and red bananas called shwe nga pyaw (golden bananas) and the original processing factory is still in operation. But the days of shipping tea leaves to the UK are long gone: The small factory is now run by the army to process and package black tea for Myanmar soldiers. We stopped by and were given a tour of the facilities by an extremely friendly army captain who acted as manager. We returned to the guest house around 6pm, just in time to witness a brilliant mountain sunset. The bad news was that high winds had knocked out electricity to the building the night before, and the

wires had not yet been repaired. We settled in for a candlelit evening. Once the sun went down, we could see the electric lights of Taungoo twinkling in the distance. There was a kitchen in the guest house, but we were pleasantly surprised when the church family sent up more food from lunchtime, with apologies for the lack of electricity. Facilities at the guest house were pretty basic: There were no beds, and we slept on the carpet-covered concrete floor with thin blankets for padding and warmth. Temperatures never dropped as low as we had feared, but a chorus of strident snores produced by my travel companions inspired nightmares of being chased around Jurassic Park by grunting dinosaurs. We woke before 6am to find the mountain completely socked in by impenetrable blue-tinted fog. We

packed our belongings and drove through the damp mist into town, where we found a modest shack with the words coffee shop painted in bright, sloppy letters on the front door. The shack was barely big enough to hold three plastic tables and a scattering of diminutive chairs. We were served Taungoo-style mohinga, potato samosas, bean pastries and the regionally famous Thandaung coffee. Everything was fresh, delicious and unbelievably inexpensive. Before heading out of town we visited the old Anglican church,

which loomed grey and ghostlike in the heavy fog. We were assaulted by leeches while walking through the high, wet grass around the lockedup, otherworldly cathedral, and we retreated to the car to pull them off. Our last stop was a meditation centre on the edge of town, where we found a modest stupa and a hilltop sitting Buddha image. By this time the clouds were breaking and the sun shining through, so we were able to enjoy one last incredible view of the mountains from the heights of Thandaung Gyi before descending back to Taungoo.

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Painful shackles or links to tradition? For Padaung, neck coils may be both
Many Padaung women are taking off or no longer taking up the metal neck coils they traditionally wear. But others hope the end of long-running conflict in their homeland will see exiles return and help keep the tradition alive

CHERRY THEIN

HE few members of the Padaung ethnic group remaining on the Myanmar side of the Thai border say they expect to see those on the other side return home in the event that peace negotiations between ethnic armed groups and the government in Kayah State are successful. The Padaung women have no interest in politics, they say. But some wish others in their clan will return because they feel that increased numbers will encourage the younger generation to maintain their traditional customs. The Padaung practice of stretching the length of the neck by wearing rings is a controversial topic. In the early 1990s, conflict with the military government sent many Kayan tribes fleeing to the Thai border area. Among the refugee camps set up there was a section specifically for those wearing the rings, which became a self-sufficient site due to revenue from tourists who came to gawk at the famous spectacle. But with the changes modern development has brought to their lives, most Padaung women in refugee camps now refuse to wear the rings. Mu Hmwe has lived in San Tun village in Loikaw township for over 60 years. She said only nine women wear rings in her village, but added that she is happy because there are three or four young girls who wish to wear rings on the neck so as to maintain traditional customs. Some girls start wearing the coils as young as five.
A Padaung woman speaks with her relatives in a village in Loikaw in Kayah State. Photo: Tu Ja

She said young and old wear the coils in more remote Pan Pet village in Demawso township. The isolation helps encourage the youngto follow tradition, but with the changing times, even small villages are no longer as cut off as they used to be. Children refuse to wear rings, said a 60-year-old Padaung woman at San Tun village. We cant force them to do it in modern days but we wish them to maintain traditional customs, despite the fact that the rings are so heavy. For me the weight is no problem because I am used to it. While the Padaungs practice is on the verge of extinction, they are discouraged from asking for help from the head of their tribes, let alone the government, to sustain it. Gender discrimination and inequality among the ethnic groups means women have no chance to participate in decisionmaking. They take on supporting roles, serving as entertainment. They receive appreciation for their dancing at village ceremonies from heads of tribes and officials. We are not sure the government will listen to us and help maintain the culture, said Mu Hmwe. Even our grandchildren do not listen to our words. We can only encourage our peers to wear rings. It is all we can do for now. She added that community leaders give them money sometimes to buy new costumes so that they look their best for visitors. We consider this their support for sustaining the culture. We cant expect more than this. Three Padaung women at

A Padaung woman speaks to The Myanmar Times in Loikaw township in Kayah State last month. Photo: Than Htike Aung

Loikaw said they feel grateful when they are treated as human. Mu Yawe, 40, said that agricultural woes drove some of the Padaung to new places to earn their living in the tourist industry. Any group of Padaung women works in Inle in Shan State earning K80,000 a month, as well as extra tips from tourists, for wearing the coils as living tourist attractions, and also selling their woven cloth. Mu Yawe had taken off her rings when we met to speak about them, but she wore them the next day. I cherish this tradition and elder women like Mu Hmwe and Mu Nan [Mu Hmwes aunt] who wear rings for long time, and are sure they wont take them off. If I

didnt worry about my daily needs, I would wear rings the rest of my life because I feel proud to be a Padaung woman, she said. I am not happy to see that Padaung are displayed like an object in public, Mu Yawe said,

One origin story for the tribe says they descended from a man who fell in love with a female dragon
but we welcome people [looking] if they treat us as people. We are people like anyone else and only our decorations look different. She added that they would rather be living at home. Even if we need to display ourselves, we want to be in our homeland. After the release of an eightpoint agreement to push ahead with a nationwide ceasefire accord between the government and the Karenni National Progressive Party on June 20 for World Refugee Day, Karenni people expressed hopes they would see their friends and families return from exile. Union minister U Aung Min said the government was collaborating with international organisations to help refugees return. We have discussed resettling refugees in Kayah State with the KNPP. We have planned for resettling at Baw La Khae in Shol Taw township, he said. The minister said there were many things to do before that could happen, including land-mine clearance, building

residential quarters, finding jobs and giving the people the longterm security they need in order to return home permanently.But he said he was looking forward to all these happening. I am also happy to know that people want to return and we are trying to help them as much as we possibly can. We also wish their return, U Aung Min said. U Plu Reh, spokesperson for the Kayah State Peace Monitoring Network, said displaced people wish to return home once the peace process proves successful. I daresay they want to return and they are not happy staying in a place where they dont belong. Padaung are working in other places and on the border to survive, he said. U Zau Lum, a peace education project manager, said all ethnic tribes in Kayah should support the Padaung in sustaining their culture. It is the Kayans culture and is unique in the world, whether or not you criticise the wearing of rings as an old or backward tradition. It is essential to educate the Padaungs younger generation to cherish and sustain it, he said. Mu Nan, Mu Hmwes 70-yearold aunt, said Padaung girls can start wearing bronze rings around their ankles, wrists and famously necks at the age of five or six. When they become teenagers, they change their rings and can wear around 20 of them. The rings identify the Padaung as unique, Mu Nan said, as the women of Kayan tribes identify themselves by their different costumes and decorations. One origin story for the tribe says they descended from a man who fell in love with a female dragon. Another says there was a gold mine on the border of Pa-O and Kayan territory. Arguing over who owned the gold inside, the two groups decided the ownership by planting a banana tree and watching which way the leaves fell. When they won, the Kayan forged rings from the mines gold for decoration, and the practice continued from there. Mu Nan said the rings also helped saved some womens lives during the days of the Japanese occupation. While men were killed outright, women were left to hang from bamboo poles. They escaped by screwing the rings off, she said. Our ancestors hand over the history of why we should wear rings, Mu Nan said. It might be legend for others but we consider it our history. Rings are our charms. They saved us. She and the others arguing for their return seem to be hoping they might do so again.

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Mon state trip triggers debate on remains of real Suvannabhumi kingdom

Discovering Mawlamyine, a city of many secrets

CHERRY THEIN
MAWLAMYINE is an ecotourism attraction because of its landscape, but it is also rich in history, archaeology, mythology and religion. Until recently, it was hidden from tourists as the country faced political crises and travel restrictions, but nowadays, the town is developing quickly. For now, the main economic source for Mon State is neighboring Thailand. The younger generation prefers to devote their time to business and are eager to seek out new education opportunities. Local residents are interested in promoting their town through tourism but they have little knowledge about the towns legacy which is extensive and was, in the past, more connected to the towns northern cities of Yangon and Mandalay. For example, there is reportedly a house in Mawlamyine where famed author George Orwell once lived, but no one knows where it is or if it even still exists. The city is also the rumoured former capital of a powerful kingdom that once encompassed much of Southeast Asia, although this is disputed by neighbouring countries. Mawlamyine has its own distinct character, but is quickly changing its ways to fit in with the rest of Myanmar changing its architecture, streets and even the names of townships. But with a rich religious and spiritual history, it best to visit the city as soon as possible, before its special qualities and rich history are lost forever. The following are two sites linked to well-known sites steeped in the regions mythology. Check out: Htisaung Pagoda This pagoda, which is located in the city, signifies the story of when the venerable Ashin Sona and Ashin Uttara were sent to the kingdom of Suvannabhumi, to convert the people. The arrival of the monks coincided with the birth of a royal prince. At the time of their arrival, it is written, the people were anxious because demons in the sea were in the habit of eating every heir born to the king. At first, the people thought that monks were friends of the demons, but later the monks drove away the demons using their chanting powers by reciting the Brahmajala sutta. People in the kingdom then embraced the new faith, as the royal prince and heir were saved and all princes born into the royal family were called Sonuthara. Sitting Hens Gap, somewhere near the old city gate Another noteworthy attraction is the old city gate, which has a distinct gap somewhere near one of its front walls, referred to by those in Mon State as the sitting hens gap. Legend has it that two brothers from India Byatwi and Byatta were shipwrecked and then picked up by a monk. They happened to eat a strange meat one day and acquired such supernatural powers that they could move their masters monastery into the forest. King Manuha (who ruled at the time) was worried for his throne, and caught the two brothers. Byatwi was executed, but Byatta escaped and sought asylum with King Anawrahta. King Manuha buried Byatwis insides around the walls of Mawlamyine and threw his blood inside the moat so that Byatwis spirit would guard the city. The reason why the old city gate is significant is because there is a rumoured gap somewhere between the city and the gate where the blood of Byatwi was not sprinkled. It is believed that whoever could find that place could conquer the city.

CHERRY THEIN

ISITING the outskirts of Mawlamyine in southern Myanmars Mon State is a bit like venturing into a scene from the Indiana Jones series of films climbing over the remains of overgrown, ancient cities on the edge of tropical forests, in a region haunted by legends and fables dating back many generations. Situated at the confluence of several rivers and on the edge of Thailand and Myanmar, the Mon people claim Mawlamyine to be the ancient centre of the Suvannabhumi kingdom. They are not alone in their claims. Several other nations around Southeast Asia also claim their nation to have the real remains of the kingdom. Local archaeologists and researchers debate the exact location and scope of the archaeological remains even today, but the distinct culture of the Mon people and the history of the region is still evident in the many sites and ruins found in and around Mawlamyine. U San Win, a retired deputy director from the Department of Historical Research, leads the effort in Myanmar to prove that Mon State is the authentic location of the kingdom. On a study tour of the remains of the kingdom, he leads me, along with a group of historians, archaeologists, tourism consults and writers, on a field trip to the Martaban Range, which lies to the east of Mawlamyine. U San Win is a 65-year-old retired archaeologist who has stubbornly pressed forward to capture the legendary and mysterious history of the ancient, kingdom. U San Win leads us by climbing up a cliff along the mountains to show the walls of the old city. He asks us not to speak, but rather to count our footsteps. We all try to follow his steps with the fear of facing deadly traps in the forest, trying to avoid the sticky bushes, spiky leaves and rocky lanes. When we reach our destination, I volunteer my estimation: There are 300 footsteps. Two footsteps, he says, are 3 feet. Therefore, the wall is 450 feet long. This is the method that has been

A pagoda overlooks farmlands in Mon State. Photo: Cherry Thein

used by U San Win to take measure of the ruins. Some walls are not in the deep forest but closely located near Mawlamyine. During the 1970s, U Aung Myint of the Forestry Department used aerial photographs to pinpoint the locations of several small towns around Mawlamyine and some smaller-scale sites in the area, U San Win said. They believe what are now Thaton and Bilin townships were the centres of the Suvannabhumi kingdom, and have found some relics that they say support the claim, which included details about the structure of ancient cities in the area. They also found extensive tunnels through the soft laterite stone in the area. U San Win passionately believes that the old Suvannabhumi kingdom is located in and around these small towns, and has dedicated much of his life to proving it, but other archaeologists disagree. One reason for the confusion, U San Wun said, is because many of the ruins have been destroyed due to the harsh, rainy climate of Mon State. Lower Myanmar experiences extremely heavy rain for much of the year. Yet, some artifacts prove the existence of a connection to the kingdom, he said. For example, they have found finger-printed bricks, several beads and terracotta statues of Buddhas images, which are encouraging in proving the connection to the past.

There are also more than 50 pottery furnaces unearthed from the grounds of villages alongside the road between Kawkareik in Kayin State and Kyaikmayaw in Mon State. Mon State Minister for Planning, Commerce and Culture U Min Nwe Soe said the archaeological research conducted on the sites has been minimal and many individuals need to be encouraged to promote more research in the future on these sites. It is the only way, he said, to prove if the history of Suvannabhumi is really located in lower Myanmar or not. Local governments should be encouraged to make more research, but we need a budget. We are starting to get better cooperation with local residents to raise awareness about the historical importance of Mon State and the need to maintain [the sites], U Min Nwe Soe said. U San Wins passion is so strong he shows us the sites as through we are the people who could save these places. As the archaeologist, I feel I am responsible to say what is right or wrong and I dont want to argue with other people about their findings because they have the right to claim [what they want], he said. But we need to be careful not to ruin the history, he said. If all people accept the wrong history, there will be no end of wrong in the country.

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Food sellers wait for customers on a train platform en route to Mandalay. Photo: Staff

The Train to Mandalay

reclined, equally content, in our bunks in the upper-class sleeper carriage. With nothing to do but drink more beer and share travel stories, we lamented the passing of the golden age of travel, a time gone by when taking a trip by train was slower, more pleasant and left one in better touch with ones surroundings. As the sun began to set, the dining carriage began to fill with hungry local travellers and cheerful armed police. The fug of our cigarette smoke mingled with the smells of fried rice and spices wafting from the kitchen. With cold beer still in abundance, we had a chance to saviour our meal, chat with our fellow diners and watch the activity at the numerous small country stations that the train frequently stopped at. Up and down each platform, sellers called out as they touted their wares through the windows, and groups of people sat drinking tea, smoking cheroots and discussing their day. Children waved cheerfully at the dirty white faces peering down at them, until with whistles blown and flags waved we set off again, all in agreement this really was a delightful way to see some of the country. Eventually, having exhausted the cold beer supplies, and with the dining car deserted, we decided to call it a night and get some sleep before arriving in Mandalay the following morning. We smiled our goodnights, spoke the fateful words, Hey, this isnt that bad at all! and drunkenly drifted off to our beds. Unfortunately, unbeknownst to us, under the cover of darkness the train had begun to slowly pick up speed. The gentle rocking that was settling us into our bunks was about to change. And unlike the uncomfortable brevity of a bucking bronco ride, we discovered, still eleven hours away from Mandalay, that there was no escape from the train, no opportunity to be thrown clear, no chance to lie still on the floor in pain and gaze at the stars. No, our delightful journey was about to take a different, distinctly aggressive turn one that would soon wipe the beery grins from our faces. time to stretch our aching muscles, wipe the sweat from our eyes and wonder where it all went wrong before we were thrown right back into another battle. Standing still was not an option; walking resulted in pin-balling from wall to wall down the corridor, trying to avoid the open doors of the carriage as the pitch black of rural Myanmar raced by at high speed outside. Making it to the toilet involved executing a brave and well-timed leap of faith between two carriages that each seemed be swaying to a different tempo; to then use the toilet involved a feat of great bravery, great balance and great aim. A couple of hours after the point when I had decided I could take no more, when I had given in and resigned myself to my fate, the sun suddenly arrived. Paddy fields appeared once more out of the dark, and a breakfast of sickeningly sweet tea and bread was served. In the cold light of early morning, things seemed more positive again. The stilted thatched huts began to be replaced by zinc and concrete, motorbikes started to outnumber ox-carts and the train took on a more sedate speed as the outskirts of Mandalay came to life around us. About 400 miles and 15 hours after waving goodbye to Yangon, we arrived at our destination exhausted, battered and bruised, but also in surprisingly good spirits. And after a well-deserved cold shower and an even colder beer, the exertions of the night slowly drifted to the backs of our minds like a dream an intense and brutal dream, to be carefully filed away under incredible journeys to share with other travellers. I would recommend this journey to anyone with an adventurous spirit who is prepared to endure some discomfort in order to have an amazing experience, and who is also physically capable of withstanding a bucking bronco for 15 hours. It definitely isnt for the faint-hearted, but its such a wonderful way to step back in time and see a tiny sliver of Myanmar you wouldnt generally get to see. For a few dollars, some bruises and a few hours of discomfort, its definitely worth it.

A journey that probably hasnt changed a great deal in over a hundred years is a pleasing reminder of some of travels simpler pleasures and of how quickly afterward we can block out the discomforts that accompany them

CLIFF LONSDALE

F youve ever attempted to ride a bucking bronco, you will undoubtedly have experienced that brief smug feeling when, at about the 30-second mark having so far survived the gentle rocking and to-ing and fro-ing you smile and think, Hey, this isnt that bad at all! Then, seconds later, finding yourself lying in pain on the floor looking up at the ceiling, you probably wondered where it all went wrong. If this sounds at all familiar youll possibly be able to understand what it feels like to travel on the sleeper train from Yangon to Mandalay. It all started so well; departing only thirty minutes late from the magnificent old colonial station in Yangon, we drank ice-cold beer as the train slowly wound its way through the outskirts of the city. We leant out of open windows to watch the day-to-day activities being conducted at the side of the tracks, returning the waves of people who had momentarily stopped and stepped aside to allow the train to pass. As the city slowly drifted away, miles of luscious calm green paddy fields opened up before us, framed by a dramatic background of dark cloud-laden hills in the distance and punctuated occasionally by flocks of white egrets which soared gracefully above the farmers in sharp pointed conical hats who were bent low over their rice. As buffalo gazed lazily up at us from deep pools of water, we

Lying down was a complicated option, as we found ourselves bouncing from our beds like rubber balls
Due to the combination of high speeds and ancient narrow-gauge tracks built by the British in the late 19th century, and apparently having seen little maintenance since then we discovered that lying down was a complicated option, as we found ourselves bouncing from our beds like rubber balls. Using legs and arms as anchors on the ceiling, we fought desperately the motion of the train, seeking to counteract the lack of shock absorbers below. For the remaining hours of darkness we wrestled and strained and sweated. Our stomachs churned and our heads swam, and we cursed the evenings excess of beer. The briefest of stops at tiny platforms which once seemed so idyllic now allowed just enough

Further information
Three trains depart daily from Yangon to Mandalay, two of which run overnight. Tickets for foreigners range from US$11 for ordinary class up to $33 for upperclass sleeper. For maximum comfort, go for the in-between choice of upper-class non-sleeper: The sleeper carriage wasnt particularly upper-class and allowed no sleep whatsoever, but the cheapest option the upright wooden benches of ordinaryclass must be absolutely lethal. Buy your tickets a few days ahead (not more than a week) from the booking office on Bogyoke Aung San Road, Yangon. Happy travels! Cliff Lonsdale is a writer who lives in Yangon with his wife and dogs. He writes a regular blog filled with his rambling thoughts and general utterings and mutterings at www. clifflonsdale.com

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Bangkok nightlife
Returning from her first-ever trip out of the country, reporter Myat Nyein Aye brought back photos, souvenirs and a lot more stories than the one she was sent to cover
read and snacked on some light food until we landed in Bangkok and disembarked. At once I was aware that I was now in a foreign land. I was surrounded by things I had never seen before. We hadnt even left the bustling Bangkok airport yet and already the urge to take photos was all-consuming. Soon the reception team from the Thai company arrived and we were issued SIM cards for our phones and press cards to be worn at press briefings. We were put up two to a room at Pathumwan Princess Hotel, which is one of the best hotels in Bangkok. Although we wanted to rest in our rooms, our work schedules showed a full itinerary and it was immediately clear that, while we were there to cover cement, wed also be seeing a whole lot more than that. The most surprising and exciting part of the program was having all of whom seemed to be in happy moods. Most of them, of course, were behaving this way for their livelihood. And some stared at us, a group of young Myanmar reporters, all in simple clothes. We were the ones looking out of place in this environment. But as we walked people called out to us nonetheless, in Thai, as they tried to entice passersby into their shops and clubs. For the youngsters, the Patpong area of Bangkok is known for its stripclubs, restaurants and bars that feature a lot of enticement and seduction. It boosts sex tourism, but I hope such kinds of tourism will skip Myanmar, and spare our values and culture. After looking around Patpong, we headed for a night market, arriving there about 10pm. By then I was starting to think everyone in Bangkok was cheerful and jolly, because everybody I saw young and old appeared to be worry-free, happy and dynamic. Millions of tourists come into Thailand yearly, so the locals know how to deal with all sorts of foreign visitors. And that night the area was teeming with people, with rows of shops filled with various goods and commodities everywhere I looked. Prices seemed to range between 100 baht (US$3.20) and 400 baht ($12.80). All were attractive, and were clearly luring in the shoppers including me. The elephant is the symbol of Thailand, so I bought purses, slim bags and keychains with elephant figures on them as souvenirs for my friends back in Yangon. Living costs in Bangkok are cheaper than they are here at home: There, a plate of chicken rice cost only 30 baht, equivalent to about K900. And on average, residents in Bangkok spend around 25 to 30 baht for a meal. No one needs to bring along a lunchbox to work as most do in Yangon. My legs were stiff after walking such a long distance, but shopping at the night market in a foreign country for the first time was so exciting that I was not tired at all. But because it was growing late, soon enough we had to say goodbye to Bangkoks famous nightlife and get some rest before our flight home the next day. But thanks to the organisers, we still managed to squeeze in one more attraction before boarding our plane the next day at 1pm: In a museum with decorated grounds and modern display techniques, we had a chance to learn a bit about the history of Thai culture before we had to reluctantly head to the airport. Until our plane touched down again in Yangon, my thoughts were still on Bangkok, and when we came inside the airport building, the dull, boring atmosphere made me feel dissatisfied. But at the same time I felt glad to be back home safe.
Translation by Thaung Nyunt
Travellers board an Air Bagan plane in Thandwe, Rakhine State. Photo: Staff

MYAT NYEIN AYE

myatnyeinaye11092@gmail.com

Air carrier increase ramps up competition in international flights

NYAN LYNN AUNG
29.nyanlynnaung@gmail.com

A FOUR-FOLD increase in air carriers operating in Myanmar since 2010 has ramped up competition in the international flight market and is driving down ticket prices, operators have said. There are now 22 airlines serving Myanmar, nine domestic and 13 international, compared with a total of just five air companies in operation from 1948 to 2010. The increase comes as Myanmar prepares to host the SEA Games and takes on the role of ASEAN chair, increasing demand for flights in and out of the country. The growing number of tourists during the holiday season and Myanmar residents travelling for education, shopping or business is also helping to ensure a strong demand for international flights. Daw Aye Mara Thar, spokesperson for Myanmar Airways International (MAI), said, Passengers are looking at price and prefer the cheaper airlines. Now many Myanmar people are travelling abroad and there are a lot of airlines offering international flights. They are competing with each other and have decreased the price of air tickets. It is good for passengers. A Myanmar student studying at Siam University in Bangkok said there has been a price competition between Golden Myanmar Airlines and AirAsia for the BangkokYangon route. We have to check both airlines for price. Normally, its about US$100 for one way. But now its $47 for Yangon-Bangkok at AirAsia, said the student. Airline operators also admit they need to improve service as well as keeping flight prices low if they are to be competitive. U Myat Thu, generalmanager of Kanbawza airline, said, Competition among international airlines is increasing now. It isgood for passengers because we have to offer better service anddecrease our prices so we are cheaper than others. However passengers flying within Myanmar have not benefited

from price drops in the same way and domestic flights can be more expensive than international ones. The price of a single air ticket for Yangonto Mandalay is nearly $80 while passengers can buy a return ticket between Yangon and Bangkok for $100. A representative of the Department of Civil Aviation said the Ministry of Transport currently had no plans to allow foreign investors to invest in domestic airlines: There can be no plan to allow international investment for domesticairlines currently because there are now a lot of local domestic airlines. According to Daw Aye MaraThar, domestic airlines currently run at a profit only during tourist season and the rest of the year operate at a loss. Now, we have many rivals. We have to plan for allcircumstances. It is not easy for airlines to thrive given how many airlines are now operating in Myanmar, she said. Airlines are already preparing for operations in the planned Hanthawady International Airport in Bago Region targeted to be opened in 2018, she said. A lack of competition in the domestic market is also impacting on customer services, said U Myat Thu. Perhaps international investors will be allowed to invest in domestic airlines in the future, he said. For passengers, the more competition the better. For us, we are making a good profit during tourist season, but still facing losses out of season. It is important to strive for good service and that is what we are trying to do. Human resources is a particular problem for local airlines facing competition from international rivals, according to certain operators. We have to give training to reach international standards. Our problemis that we have not enough human resources. So, our service is not asgood as others, U Myat Thu said. Daw Aye Mara Thar said, If there is no preparation for service, it is not easy to thrive amongother international airlines, so airlines have to upgrade their services every day to stand up to the competition.

VERY time I heard that one of my colleagues would be travelling out of the country to cover an international event, I dreamed that one day I would get to do the same myself. The very thought set my heart racing. Thats why Ill never forget the feeling when my editor came and told me about what would be my first foreign visit: to Bangkok, to attend the SCG Cement companys 100th anniversary exhibition. SCG stands for Siam Cement Group Siam is an old word for Thailand and its products are made in Thailand and then exported to Myanmar, the Philippines, Vietnam
Tourists check out the wares in Patpong, Bangkok. Photo: internet

Translation by Thiri Min Htun

and Indonesia, although SCG is also now planning to build a factory in Mawlamyine. Now, cement may not sound at first like the most thrilling subject, but I wasnt about to turn this opportunity down. Going on a news-gathering trip abroad made my mind go almost out of control. I was excited, but also worried about inconveniences that might occur. In the days before I left, I questioned my colleagues incessantly about what the requirements of travel would be. As it happened, it was a pretty easy trip. SCG took responsibility for each of the eight members of the Myanmar media team, arranging for visas and everything else. The only thing we had to do was carry our own baggage and converge at the appointed date and place. As it was a short trip, I travelled light. But knowing I am a forgetful person, I still had to take great care not to leave anything behind as I packed. When I arrived at the airport, I briefly missed my colleagues who wouldnt be coming, and I got a bit anxious as I boarded the plane. But I

dinner on a pleasure cruise on the Chao Phraya River. Many people were in line ahead of us, and when our turn came, it was already dark. But that gave us the opportunity to see the lovely nighttime views of the riverbank. It was a wonderful feeling to enjoy the beautiful lights and scenery while enjoying a sumptuous buffet. The enjoyment the cruise boats give to the passengers and tourists alike is one of the wonders that make Bangkok famous. Unfortunately, I was unable to document this serene and tranquil panorama because my camera lens malfunctioned and the memory card was getting so full that I couldnt take photos to my hearts content. Another exciting experience in our three-day, two-night tour of Bangkok was a visit to Patpong, an area famous for its nightclubs, bars and boisterous DJ shows. It took only 15 minutes by train to get there from our hotel, and though we arrived at about 9pm, we soon found everything was already in full swing. We walked the length of the street, surrounded by young men and women in sophisticated clothes,