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Your instrument squeeks, tones just won't play - find air leaks
The most common problem of clarinettists (and other wood wind players, too) is the air leaking key. It results in squeeking, problems with all the tones that are lower, while the tones higher come perfectly. This is no wonder because if some air can go out at a higher tone hole that you willingly have opened, some part of the air column wants to sound at a higher tone. There can be other reasons, but this is the number one cause. Now how do you find the one (or several) untight keys and how do you fix it? You need no tools, but one person helping - if possible another clarinettist. Put the upper and lower joint together. Let the a second person close the bore with his hands. Close all keys with your fingers with normal
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power (like playing the lowest tone) and start blowing into the bore, easy at first and then stronger. If you blow very strong, some keys even on a perfect instrument will bend open (usually the biggest ones far down); but in your case that should happen earlier. You will hear air coming out somewhere - but it can be very difficult to find out, where. A good way is the second person closes the keys in question by pressing on them. Now that you have found the key that lets air flow out, you have to fix it: There could be a lose screw in the mechanic - that is easy to fix Sometimes you find that it is a problem with combined key mechanics, and there you have little screws to adjust the hight of keys/pads over the tone hole There could be a spring that has become too week to reliably close the key. You find a description on how to increase the spring power here, but sometimes it is sufficient to loosen the screws that fix the hub/axis and maybe oil them a little - at least for the hours of the concert, since manipulation of a spring is a higher risk (it may break - then the game is over). Worst - but most common - is that the player has bent a key (or several), so the pad does not sit plane on the tone hole. If you have leather pads, you can first try to moisten the pad (spit on it), because then the pad will expand, become soft and may - if you press the key on the hole - adjust to the hole. This should work, if the key was bent only a little, it takes just some minutes (the pad must become soft) and there is no risk. If you have got a little more time and the tools, one might, too, adjust the pad - that is take it out and fix it again as described here, so it will sit plane on the tone hole. You can do that with pads of any material (not just leather), but you can replace a silicon pad with leather as first aid, too. If you have no time and no tools and moistening the pad doesn't help, you have to go the risky way and re-bend the bent key as described here. Anyway if you often grease the corks of the joints, keys problems hardly happen.
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and put it in your first aid kit. If you have lost a screw just before the concerto you can try to break a piece of a match and press into the thread - but that won't hold long and reliably.
Sometimes you have to pull out a long screw/axis of a turning key. Never use an ordinary tong for that because it will flatten or scratch the screw/axis at the point you grab it. Later on the key won't turn easily any more. What you do is: You build yourself a small tool from a wire and a filing handle that you get at hardware stores. With that you push out your screw/axis easily.
Replace a pad
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Padding or replacing a pad is a delicate job, but once you have done it a couple of times, it is simple and holds no risks. You can try it and do it again and again until you have mastered the steps. The necessary material can be found easily (you can mail-order it, too) and is inexpensive. So there are many good reasons to learn to do it yourself. Once a pad does not close perfectly any more and this pad is from leather, you can try to moisten it and it will become soft - and soon may fit perfectly again. But this process can not repeated forever again and again. One day a leather pad will become brittle - that depends on the position on the clarinet, which translates into how much humidity it will have to stand. The higher up, the sooner you have to change pads (every one to tow years is good for an amateur) but bass clarinet pads for the lowest keys may last like five to ten years or longer, because they may stay dry forever.
The traditional method is glueing the pad into the key with sealing wax. Sealing wax becomes fluid, when you heat it over a flame. You drip it into the hot key cup, where you want the pad to sit, and then you put in the pad. Since the sealing wax becomes solid slowly, you have a minute or so to correct the pad's position. Of course you better remove the key from the clarinet when heating it because of the heat of the flame would endanger the clarinet (although professionals do that - but they have enough experience). When the wax has cooled a bit it will hold the pad in the key, there still is time to put the key back into the instrument, and you can still adjust the pad to fit exactly onto the tone hole. At least that is possible for the simpler cases, maybe you have to remove it later to get all keys back in right order. As you can see on the picture you hold the key a couple of centimeters over the flame and not into the flame as that would burn the silver plating. Today people (most professionals do) use hot-melt glue, which has similar properties as sealing wax (except that it may cool down a little faster, depending on the glue). You need the melting pistol and the glue sticks, but since you can buy them in most hardware stores and you will find them in many households already, there is no reason why you shouldn't try them. In my first aid kit I still have the sealing wax, since it needs less space. There are new types of pads - for example silicon - which are usefull in moist places and do never change at all, but this comes at a price: Since they don't change their shape, the trick with moistening them won't help if they don't close perfecly. And if a silicone pad falls out only special glues (silicone) will help. But that shouldn't worry us, since we can always replace a fallen-out silicon pad with a leather pad in case of emergency.
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It will say something like "can be used for rubber, textiles, leather and other elastic material, but not for Styropor or other foams". You find glue in drug stores or hardware stores. A sharp knife (skalpell from a medical store or a small carpet knife is excellent, shouldn't bend) A ruler with a steel edge to cut along A fresh sheet of sand paper, not too fine a small, flat board like the one people use to cut their bread on with a straight edge, if you haven't got one, a table with a straight edge will do, too Some cork grease and a pencil This is what you do (without much experience it may take about an hour) 1. First you remove the old cork from its bed completely, at one piece if you can. Carefully measure the exact length, width and strength of that old piece. 2. You then use the pencil to mark the exact size of the cork you need on the new sheet. If the old cork is more or less destroyed, just cut it a bit bigger in the beginning, you can always cut off a little later, or use a piece of paper to determine the exact lenght of the piece by winding it around the mouthpiece. Hold the skalpell or knife with it's blade vertically so the edge of the cork is vertical. The new cork should fit into the bed that the old cork was glued into. Cork is elastic, it will stretch a bit if it has to. Check that you got it right BEFORE applying the glue. Make sure the edges that are glued together in the end are vertical (90 degrees to surface) cuts. 3. Since it is much easier to make it flatter now as it is still a flat piece, sand it off to the needed strength. It should be just a little bit stronger than the old one. The measures are near perfect, but since cork is elastic, it won't be a problem, if it is half a mm too short, because you can stretch it a little. 4. It is more difficult to get the cork into the right strength. A bit too strong is OK, too thin is bad, because then the mouthpiece will not be held in place. You will sand away some excess cork if it is a bit too strong later. If you have got one, you can use an electric sander to make the sheet of cork exactly the right strength as long as it is lying flat before you. That is much easier than reducing the strength after it was glued onto the mouthpiece. A little bit of glue will keep the cork on a board where you sand it. 5. Then glue it in. Don't forget to glue the both ends of the cork together, too! 6. Now the cork is in it's place, but it is probably a bit too strong. 7. You have to sand off the excessive cork. When sanding check that you sand the cork off concentrical, so that the mouthpiece sits exactly centered in the upper joint. Be careful not to sand off the tenon, and be even more careful not to sand over the lay of the mouthpiece (you better fix an old reed on that just in case!). Check that it fits well, don't go too far and make it loose, but don't leave it too strong either. 8. Apply cork grease after you are done. While the cork is new, it should expand a little due to the humidity, but then it will be be compressed due to the pressure in the tenon. If you can't get a cork sheet in the right strength, you can improvise with the thinnest piece that shops may sell you (usually 0,2 mm, nearly as thin as paper): You cut it into a long strip of the width of the cork bed. Then you can wrap it around several times, unil it reaches the correct strength. You apply the glue to the bed and to one side of the cork strip first. You let it dry before you apply the glue to the other side or you will have a mess... Then, very carefully, wrap the cork strip around until you have the correct strength. Make sure there is no excess of glue coming out anywhere. Wait some 15 minutes or so. Then carefully put the mouthpiece into the upper joint's tenon and leave it in there for 2-3 hours, so the glue will dry. It will be sufficient for a performance, it may even hold for a year, but the glue will harden and deteriorate one day, the elastic quality of this cork wrapper is less than optimal and one day it may let you down when you can afford it the least ;-)
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A replacement cord to fix the reed (even if you use a ligature - a cord will always work, but then you have to know how). If you are the "ligature only"-type, get a spare one of those. A box with pads of all necessary sizes, sealing wax, matches and a candle The necessary screw drivers A small box with replacement screws A sanding tool (spatula with fine sandpaper) Cork sheets 0,1mm, 1mm, 2 mm, a Skalpell, a small pack contact glue (Pattex) Some rubber bands
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German Version
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