12 food and drink

restaurant review

Ballathie House Hotel Kinclaven Stanley Perthshire PH1 4QN

t: 01250 883268. w: www.ballathiehousehotel.com

Restaurant Review:

A selection of beautifully-presented dishes from the Ballathie House Hotel menu.

Dining in the grand style

e arrive at Ballathie on a wet Sunday evening catching glimpses of the impressive country pile as we roll along the mile-long drive through the grounds. a roaring coal fire in the cosy reception room helps us dry out as we enjoy an apple juice (2) and a well-made Hendricks and tonic (6), before going through the short but impressive menu. Dinner is served in the exquisite dining room, akin to something from Downton abbey. an amuse bouche of a crab meat fritter kicks things off. Served alongside a chilli jus and a tomato sauce, it is a pleasant, low-key entry to the meal. Taste buds tickled, we get stuck into our starters which both look stunning. although im not usually a fan thecouriermagazine

of beetroot, i liked the sound of its matching with goats cheese mousse, heritage potatoes and pea shoots. Head chef Scott Scorer uses a variety of beetroot that is sweet, tangy and a world away from the pickled purple discs. The citrus flavour of the yellow beetroot cuts through the richness of the mousse, making for a surprisingly refreshing dish. My partner opts for the carpaccio of pineapple with Barwheys cheddar and cured ham which he unhelpfully points out is an upmarket version of the cheese and pineapple hedgehog centrepiece that used to adorn the tables of parties in the 1980s. it is light and fresh, with a punchy Oriental dressing that brings it firmly into the 21st century. after such a promising start, we greedily await the arrival of our main

courses. i select the rump of lamb, as its a meat i love but dont often enjoy at home because it can be hard to get right. Mr Scorer clearly learned his trade well during his time as sous chef at the Gleneagles Hotel the lamb is perfectly cooked, its beautifully tender slices still a little pink. it comes with clapshot croquette, haggis bonbons, kale and a subtly sweet whisky gel (shades of Heston here). attracting a supplement of 10, the fillet of Scotch beef is the most expensive item on the menu, but my partner enjoys the finer things and orders his medium-rare, accompanied by a Spanish rioja (5.95). although he enjoys his steak immensely, the highlight of his plate is a melt-in-the-mouth beef cheek, not on the menu but a pleasant surprise. which offers an intense meaty hit.

Three courses for 43.50 per person

Price

Food HHHHHHHHHH Service HHHHHHHHHH Atmosphere HHHHHHHHHH Value HHHHHHHHHH Menu HHHHHHHHHH Total 39/50

Reviews are conducted by The Couriers secret diners.

Ballathie had the distinction of winning the Best Cheese Board at the recent British Cheese awards so we make sure we have a taste. a quartet of punchy cheeses are on our board for the evening with applewood smoked cheddar, ayrshire Dunlop, Lanarkshire Blue and ailsa Craig goats cheese. The excellent selection comes with a decent amount of house oatcakes and quince jelly. My partner also goes for a light, sweet filo pastry cannelloni with pineapple flambed in rum, served alongside a dollop of coconut ice cream. Tea, coffee and petit fours are included in the price, rounding off this satisfying dinner at Ballathie a real hidden treasure of the Perthshire countryside.