Warsaw

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warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1641-5264
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
WARSAW
August - September 2013
Saska Kpa
What makes Warsaws
most desirable district
tick
Palmiry
The National Memorial
Museum highlights an
overlooked tragedy
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
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e invile you lo lhe
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imression ...
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Reslauranl

is an eIeganl, cosy and
unrelenlious reslauranl vhose deIicale and
Iighl IoIish cuisine viII surrise you vilh nev
avours and seciaIlies every day.
There is nolhing eIse Iike il in Warsav.
4
Warsaw In Your Pocket
CONTENTS
Feature
Saska Kpa 8
Arrival & Transport 12
The Basics 17
Culture & Events 20
Hotels 27
Restaurants 32
Cafs 56
Nightlife 58
History 70
Sightseeing
Essential Warsaw 72
Sightseeing 73
Palace of Culture and Science 85
Old Town 86
Praga 88
Elektoralna & Chodna 90
Warsaw Uprising 92
Jewish Warsaw 96
Treblinka 99
azienki 100
Wilanw 102
Chopin 105
Copernicus Science Centre 108
Further Afield
d 110
Leisure 112
Shopping 114
Directory 120
Maps & Index
City Centre Map 123
City Map 124
Country Map 126
Street Index 128
Listings Index 129
Feature Index 130
Contents
Just across the Wisa from central Warsaw is the once-
downtrodded, now-swank neighbourhood of Saska Kpa.
It has long drawn the monied set, and today is home to a
number of trendy bars, restaurants and boutiques, not to
mention the sparkling National Stadium. Read up on the
history of this stylish area and what youll find there today
(not to mention tips on how to get there) in our feature on
page 8.
The National Museum is situated in the forest just outside
Warsaw and is a great reason to get out of the city. It
memorializes the 21 separate mass executions against
Poles and Jews that took place here during World War
II. Its a heavy topic but the museum parses it out well,
explaining how citizens used the forest as a refuge while
also training and hiding weapons. The exhibits are first
rate, and outside is a giant cemetery of unmarked crosses
dedicated to the victims. For all the details on how to get
there turn to page 82.
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Warsaw In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
Copyright notice
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP
Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k.
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced in any form, except
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publisher and copyright owner. The
brand name In Your Pocket is used
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(Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel.
(+370-5) 212 29 76).
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOEM
In the summer months Warsaw is filled with the sound
of music, giving you the opportunity to experience a
vast array of aural pleasures. Even the buskers along
Krakowskie Przedmiecie (p.74) are excellent musicians.
Its hot and everyone is happy, so we even applaud the
guy who stands outside the Metro Centrum station
beating an old chair with two sticks 12 hours a day - God
bless im! On a more formal note, you cannot miss out on
attending one of the Sunday Chopin recitals (p.21) at the
famous azienki Park (p.100). Other options include the
Musical Gardens concerts at the Royal Castle (p.83) - a
programme of sombre contemporary Polish classical
music running until mid-August. On Saturday evenings
until August 17th the Old Town square (p.86) hosts some
pretty hip jazz from around Poland and beyond. If you
are lucky enough to be in town from 24th August youll
catch the Singer Festival of Jewish culture (p.23) - the
area around Plac Grzybowski is transformed and you will
always be within earshot of some hot klezmer music . On
a smaller scale, try to catch Canadian singer/songwriter
Lindsay Martell performing his resident Saturday night
slot at the Warsaw Tortilla Factory (p.54) or cross the river
and visit Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska (p.61) to check out
their haphazard programme of offbeat strummings and
electronica.
Speaking of across the river, in this issues feature
we take a look at the lovely, green and glam district of
Saska Kepa (p.8). Famed for its pre-war villas, sleepy
little streets and trendy little boutiques, its paradise for
the boho caf crowd. The relaxed pace of life here makes
it a great place to just amble around the streets or pop
down to the more natural bank of the river Wisa, including
the Temat Rzeka beach, bar and clubhouse (p.66). Also,
dont miss out on the lush Skaryszewski Park, where you
can just find a space to sit down and study your copy of
Warsaw In Your Pocket in order to plan the rest of your
stay, learn about the history of the city or just look for
spelling mitsakes!
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and assumes no responsibility for unforeseen changes,
errors, poor service, disappointing food or terrible hangovers.
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Writer Mat Fahrenholz
Research Manager Maria Rulaff
Researchers Oli wia Hojan,
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Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
SASKA KPA
Set on Warsaws ri ght bank, Saska Kpa i s one of
Warsaws cool est distri cts and a great exampl e of how
the status of an area can change. Up until not so l ong
ago, despi te i ts pl ethora of wel l -establ i shed forei gn
embassi es, Saska was generall y consi dered a no go
par t of the ci ty. Boy, how thi ngs have changed over
the past two decades! Now returni ng to the gl ow of
i ts pre-war, pre-communi st gl amour, Saska i s one of
the most desirabl e distri cts of Warsaw; wi th property
pri ces staunchl y hol ding their ground in these recession
hi t ti mes, the nei ghbourhood has become home to
the nouveaux ri che, the intelli gentsia and much of the
capi tals arts communi ty. Now li ving in the shadow of
the new Nati onal Stadi um, the sporti ng compl ex has
actual l y pl ayed a maj or rol e i n bri ngi ng sports fans,
arena rock fans and other new visi tors to the area. Wi th
i ts host of trendy bars, cafes, restaurants and mi x of
bouti que and ol d-school shops, Saska Kpa is as cl ose
as Warsaw gets to some of the Li ttl e Village areas of
London or Paris. As such i ts a great place to j ust wander
around, peopl e watch or marvel at the hotch-potch of
archi tectural styl es - i ncl udi ng maj esti c 19th century
manor houses, some superb exampl es of 1920s and
30s modernism, Col d War tower bl ocks and brand new
ul tra-modern devel opments.
Fi rst settl ed by Dutch farmers i n 1628, the fol l owi ng
century saw Saska Kpa become the hunti ng ground
of choice for Warsaws nobility. However, it wasnt only
wild beasts that the local aristocracy had their hounds
out for; it was here in the palaces of Saska Kpa that
they would also conduct their secret affairs wi th local
maidens. By the 19th century the district emerged as a
favourite weekend destination for the bourgeoisie, who
would sail across the river to enjoy the bowling alleys,
shooting ranges and fairground attractions that had by
then sprung up around the area. The early years of the
20
th
century saw the area really take off as the desirable
residential district of the aristocracy and the inter-war
years saw a particularly intense period of development
as the monied classes flocked across the river to what
had become Warsaws best piece of real estate. After
the war the communist authori ties attempted to keep
an eye on the middle classes as well as the embassies,
building concrete horrors to house members of the militia
and secret police. In fact, Wadysaw Gomuka, the first
secretary of the Uni ted Polish Workers Party (1955
1964), liked the area so much he lived here in a flat on ul.
Saska 109. A plaque that commemorated his prolonged
presence in the neighbourhood had to be taken down due
to persistent vandalism.
Travelling from the city centre across the Poniatowski Bridge
(H-2) is a simple task, just hop on any tram heading in the
direction of the bridge from Al. Jerozolimskie and hop off
at the first stop over the bridge, opposite the imposing
National Stadium. Ul. Francuska, Saskas main drag lies
immediately to your right. Unfortunately your first taste of
this pleasant district known for its serenity will be Rondo
Waszyngtona (the George Washington Roundabout) - a
battlefield of tramlines and constantly vandalised concrete
tunnels that connect football fans to the National Stadium
(H-2). Escape the chaos and begin your Saska safari in
earnest by crossing al. Zieleniecka to hit Skaryszewski
Park (H-2). To penetrate the true heart of Saska you need to
take a walk down its principal high street, ulica Francuska
(H-2/3). Lined with low level housing, private boutiques and
popular bars and restaurants - like the off-beat OSP Saska
Kpa, highly regarded Dom Polski (H-3) and bubbly Cafe
Baobab (H-3) - most of the areas charm lies in its cafe
culture and unique atmosphere of its eateries, rather than
beating tracks between tourist attractions. That said, dont
miss taking short detours to Szara Cegla or Klub Kultury
Saska Kpa to catch a bit of its arts vibe. With everything
just down the road or two minutes away Saska resembles
a close-knit village, but also has a surreal crossroads of
the world atmosphere. Every street corner comes with
arrows pointing in exotic directions: Yemen, Colombia,
Iraq, Argentina... Welcome to Embassyland: there are a
total of 17 embassies in the immediate area, all occupying
impressive villas, and making Saska one of the citys most
multicultural neighbourhoods.
Saska Kpa has always traditionally been home to
Warsaws artists and bohemians. Noted residents have
included poet and songwriter Agnieszka Osiecka,
a bronze figure of whom stands on the corner of ul.
Francuska and ul. Obrocw (H-3). Painter and art
critic Jan Cybis former residence at ul. Walecznych 28
(H-3) is commemorated with a rather attractive plaque
bearing his signature. A plaque on sculptor Stanisaw
Sikoras house at ul. Obrocw 28/3 commemorates
Pablo Picassos passing visit and the garden is also
wel l worth a l ook wi th i ts numerous statues and
installations. The world famous Polish contemporary
composer Witold Lutos awski al so l i ved at ul .
Zwyciezcw 39 (apartment 10) until 1968. His work may
be hard going for the uninitiated but his importance is
such that the Polish parliament has named 2013 The
Year of Lutosawski. More recent famous residents
include international actress Katarzyna Figura, and
the hugely popular singer/songwriter Stanisaw Soyka,
who can regularly be seen having a drink with the jolly
staff of the wonderful Senegalese owned Caf Baobab
(H-3, ul. Francuska 31).
Notable Saska Residents
photo by Mat Fahrenholz
10 11
Warsaw In Your Pocket August - September 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
SASKA KPA SASKA KPA
What to See
The National Stadium
H-2, Al. Ksicia J. Poniatowskiego 1
Officially opened on January 29th, 2012, the new National
Stadium has room for 58,000 fans and 860 journalists,
while the construction itself, with its red and white covering,
was built using hundreds of 45-metre support pillars driven
into the ground to stabilise the 25 metres of war rubble the
stadium finds itself atop. Priced at 1.2 billion PLN, history buffs
will note that the Socialist era Relay statue at the entrance
has been preserved in a nod to the sites past heritage it
was here that the Stadion Dziesiciolecia (10th Anniversary
Stadium) stood, built in the 1950s to mark the anniversary of
the end of WWII. This was also the site where, on September 8,
1968, in front of 100,000 people, Ryszard Siwiec set himself
alight in protest of the Soviet-led invasion of Czechoslovakia.
Today Warsaws National Stadium can be seen as a shining
example of just how far Poland has come since those dark
days and is an exceptional place to watch the national football
side, or one of the mega-concerts frequently held here. The
excellent acoustics provide a deafening atmosphere.
Guided tours of the stadium are run 7 days a week from 10am-
9pm and the general tours set off every 15 minutes. A number
of other tours are available, including the Exclusive Tour which
gives you access to the public spaces as well as players only
zones and VIP areas. Tickets for the general tour cost 10zl.
Skaryszewski Park
H-2, Al. Zieleniecka
Skaryszewski Park is one of the most beautiful in Warsaw, but
also one of its most notorious thanks chiefly to its popularity
with people who do odd things in bushes at night. Visit by
day, however, and youll find a pleasant 55 hectare site filled
with wide alleys originally designed for horse drawn carriages,
man-made hills, water falls and lakes and landscaped
flowerbeds. Unlike its snobby counterpart, azienki Park, its
perfectly acceptable to sprawl out on the grass wherever you
like here, have a picnic or just take 40 winks.
Originally founded in 1905, Skaryszewski Park went under the
name Paderewski Park up until 1945. Within its manicured
grounds are several points of interest including a monument
commemorating Allied pilots killed when their B24 bomber
was shot down in 1944 while trying to supply insurgents
fighting in the Warsaw Uprising. Only seven crew members
survived and one of them, Henry Lloyd Lyne unveiled the
memorial in 1988. Another far grander monument, frowned
upon by the locals, is located near the entrance to the park
and commemorates the killing of twenty six Red Army
soldiers by the Nazis in 1944. Originally, the monument which
features a low-relief sculpture of a Red Army soldier was
constructed over the graves of the soldiers in a different area
of the park. In 1968, their bodies were exhumed and moved
to the Red Army cemetery on ul. wirki i Wigury (E-6). The
monument itself was also relocated to the more prominent
position which it now occupies.
Drewniany Domek (the Wooden House)
ul. Walecznych
Just around the corner from the popular Francuska 30 caf
stands a rather unique and stubbornly defiant wooden house.
The first thing youll notice about this large building is that its
certainly pre-20
th
century, and secondly, its the only house
in Saska which stands at an angle to the road. This beautiful
old rustic home was originally built in the 1880s, well before
the popularity of the area and at a time when Saska was
still considered a rural village separated from the bustling
city across the river. The house was built for Anna Klotylda,
a member of the Dutch Neumann (Przybytkowski) family.
This evangelist family had escaped religious persecution in
counter-reformation Holland and settled in Poland - a country
which was known for its tolerance of all religions and beliefs
in the 16
th
-17
th
centuries. WWII saw over 20% of Saska
Kpas architecture turned to rubble, but the wooden house
survived. To this day the house is owned by descendents of
the same family.
Szara Cegla
ul. Krlowej Aldony 5
Weve never quite known what to make of Szara Cegla. When it
opened it seemed to be a poorly stocked caf and the prefered
meeting place for Saskas artsy crowd. Young hipsters would sit
around playing with their airbooks, thumbing trendy magazines
without buying them, and rarely ordering anything from the cafe
counter, but nobody seemed to care. Since then its emerged as
a HQ for initiatives and collectives from around the city. Design
is still an important aspect and you will find some interesting
publications and products for sale, including some great poster
designs, bags and bits n bobs. They are also keen to promote
small scale food producers from the region and their smallish
Thursday (10am-7pm) and Saturday (10am-6pm) food/farmers
market has proved a big hit, with people visiting from all over
Warsaw to support the producers of healthy, additive-free
cottage industry yummy things! Regular meetings, talks and film
screenings also take place on a number of obscure topics from
the history of modern dance to how to smoke fish (seriously).
Situated in the driveway of a house, Szara Cegla also has an
overgrown, but nice garden space featuring tables designed
from salvaged materials and a trampoline!
Klub Kultury Saska Kpa (Saska Kpa Culture Club)
ul. Brukselska 23
This modern, purpose-built facility was opened in 2011 as
a venue for the promotion of artistic activity in the district.
Exhibitions, events, film screenings, dances and concerts make
up the majority of the constantly updated programme which
aims to target every part of the community. Located at the Al.
Stanw Zjednoczonych end of ul. Paryska - a continuation of
the straight as an arrow ul. Francuska - youll find this white
spaceship of a building perched in the middle of a fork in the
road. Try to visit the rooftop caf which oddly makes you feel
like you are seated on the deck of an ocean liner! The rooftop is
also occasionally used for live music events and performances.
Eat & Drink
Saska Kpa is awash with restaurants and cafes and in all
honesty its difficult to pick a real duffer. In true international
Saska style, on ul. Francuska alone you can expect to pass
eateries serving up dishes from seemingly all corners of the
world, including French, Hungarian, Spanish, Italian, Mexican,
Indian, Ukrainian and Senegalese. Oh, and its also home to
one of the most highly respected Polish restaurants in the
city (Dom Polski). See below for our top recommendations
on where to stop while touring the district.
Dom Polski, H-3, ul. Francuska 11. Could this be the
highly respected Polish joint we mentioned? Turn to Polish
Restaurants to find out.
OSP Saska Kpa, ul. Walecznych 74. Offbeat bar with
tasty and cheap food; see Bars & Pubs.
Caf Baobab, H-3, ul. Francuska 31. A little bit of
Senegal in Saska Kpa - who would have thought? See
African Restaurants for more.
Ristorante Repubblica Italiana, H-3, ul. Francuska
40. Authentic pizzas and salads in this constantly busy
restaurant, ah, we mean ristorante! See Italian Restaurants.
Kuchnia Funkcjonalna, H-2, ul. Jakubowska 16.
Interesting building, interesting food and a great garden. See
International Restaurants.
Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska, H-3, ul. Zwycizcw
49. Hip cafe/bar with live music and film shows in a 1950s
shop building. See Bars & Pubs.
Park Skaryszewski, photo by Ferry Saur
The Relay monument, National Stadium,
Authentic Senegalese cuisine
and African culture in Poland
ul. Francuska 31 - Tel. (+48) 22 617 40 57
www.cafebaobab.pl
SAS, by Grzegorz Pitek and Jarosaw Trybu.
Dont be fooled by the title, this is not another Andy
McNabb book about the Special Air Service running
around the Middle East. It is, in fact, a great little book
about the varied buildings of Saska Kpa, one of the
great attractions of the area. For architecture buffs,
this illustrated architectural atlas of the area is a must
buy item before you cross the river. The book deals
speci fically with the avant-garde, modernist golden
years between 1926 and the outbreak of WWII. Each
page of this handsome little 72-page tome refers to a
separate building or monument in the area. A short write-
up appears in both Polish and English and the objects
included are finely illustrated by designer Magdalena
Pi wowar in a simpl e, plan-like way, whi ch helps to
emphasise the geometric designs of the buildings. The
publication rapidly became a cult bestseller in the area
and makes for a fascinating and attractive little souvenir
of your visit to Saska Kpa. Published by the Fundacja
Centrum Architektury, it costs 35z and is available at
most galleries and bookshops around town.
Further Reading
13
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
August - September 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
12
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
9
8
Warszawa Centralna Train Station A/B-4, Al. Je-
rozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign
mobile phones). Warsaw Central Station (Warszawa
Centralna) is exactly what it says on the tin: central. And
thanks to recent renovations were happy to say its now
easy to navigate as well. Centralna is looking better than
it ever has with new storefronts and modern upgrades
that will impress those whove been away for a while.
From alighting the train you should take one of the two
facing escalators (if theyre working) in the centre of the
platform, which will lead you up into one of the underground
passages that flank the main hall. Whichever side you
come up on you will be one level below ground level and
the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the underground
passageway between Centralna and the Marriott. Signs
for ATMs (bankomats) are everywhere, and though once
sparse the machines can be spotted at almost every turn.
Tourist info can be found across the street at the Palace
of Culture - just look for the i sign (Open 08:00-20:00).
They can provide you with maps, etc. Tickets for the
public transport system can be bought from most of
the newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located in the
underground corridor that runs below the main hall.
Look for Przechowalnia Bagau, where stewards will
look after your bag, or opt for one of the plentiful lockers.
Payphones can be found in the underground tunnels with
cards available from all the kiosks. Connect to a Polish
network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid cards
from the same newsagents.
Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi
ranks, and by passing via tunnels under the main road
youll find bus and tram stops though once you enter the
signs are more of a hinderance than a help and you may
never be seen or heard of again. Officially sanctioned ELE
taxis can be found at the rank on Aleje Jerozolimskie and
SAWA taxis can be found rank on the Zote Tarasy side.
On the ground level there is a travel office run by Polish
rail. Find it on the Zote Tarasy side of the building to the
right of the stairs heading down to the platforms under
the Centrum Obslugi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www.
intercity.pl). Open from 09:00 - 20:30, the multi-lingual
staff (they can even assist the deaf) can search for the
cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and
domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you.
The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Cen-
tralna has improved dramatically with the renovations.
Head to Green Coffee, Starbucks or Coffee Heaven for
a range of good coffee or hot and cold snacks which
are available to takeaway while McDonalds can also
be found by following one of the many signs. If you have
time to kill, Champions in the Marriott can be reached
via the underground passageway and offers a far better
place to sit and wait than the station itself, as does the
nearby Zote Tarasy shopping centre. Dont be alarmed
to find Warszawa Centralna used as a drop-in centre
by Warsaws homeless population - while most are
harmless some like to pass their time being drunk and
abusive. Bizarrely, while the Polish rail staff manning the
ticket booths are mono-lingual, the tramps in Centralna
seem adept at begging in a multitude of tongues. Q
Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat
reservations cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:00.
Warszawa Centralna
The Polish rail network is generally in decent shape
even if the rolling stock is by and large something you
may have travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly
better than Britains railways; youll find most trains run
on time, are cheap, and dont crash. Travelling times
are generally pretty slow even on Intercity trains with
limited high-speed sections of track throughout the
country. That is being remedied but in turn this is causing
increased travelling times on many lines. Tickets are by
western standards very cheap with a first -class ticket
to Krakw from Warsaw for instance setting you back
about 150z (about 40).
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several
types of train. Express InterCity (EIC) trains are the fast-
est, newest and most expensive of the lot, with first and
second class compartments holding up to six people
and seat reservations required. New rolling stock is
appearing with open carriages and 230v AV sockets.
The Express (EX) train is less modern than the EIC
but still considered expensive, and also requires seat
reservations. The EuroCity (EC) trains offer international
connections and seat reservations as well. Cheapskates
looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper
Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK) which has second class seats
that often require no seat reservation and first class
seats that do; the InterREGIO (IR) trains, which are the
cheapest, have only second class seats and require no
reservation; and the REGIOekspres (RE) which no longer
has seat reservations available online. With the budget
options you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your
journey is guaranteed to try your good humour.
More information on train times and prices check the very
useful www.rozklad.pkp.pl which has an English option.
There is the functionality to book tickets online once you
have registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/index.jsp).
This option allows you to book a ticket and seat in one
without the hassle of queuing at the station.
If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train
station then youll be pleased to hear you can hop on the
desired train and buy a ticket direct from the conductor.
Youll pay a small surcharge for this (approx 15z), and
credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are expected
to greet others in their compartment with a curt dzie
dobry, and it is taken as given that a male passengers
will help females or the elderly with any heavy baggage.
Travelling by train should hold no fear, though you may
have the misfortune of sharing a compartment with a
woman who has no qualms with silencing errant chil-
dren with a thump to the head. Or even worse, sharing
a compartment with perky army discharges. Upgrading
to first class for a cursory fee is usually enough to avoid
these pitfalls.
Finally most stations throughout the country are ap-
pallingly lacking in signs denoting the station name and
its surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Communicating
with your fellow passengers can save a lot of time and
frustration.
Arrivals Przyjazdy
Departures Odjazdy
Platform Peron
Train Smarts By Train
Warsaws main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal
giant that sits conveniently in the citys center and is the main
hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally passengers
may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschodnia on the
eastern side of the Vistula river between Praga Pnoc and
Praga Poudnie districts, and Warszawa Zachodnia on the
border of Ochota and Wola districts to the west of the city.
Warszawa Wschodnia Train Station H-1, ul. Kijowska
8, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones).
Q Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat
reservations cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:00.
Warszawa Zachodnia Train Station D- 4, ul.
Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign
mobile phones). Q Ticket office open from 03:30 - 24:00.
By Car
Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has
extensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having
said that the competition on the roads front isnt fierce.
Roads leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual car-
riageway standard, though once you enter the city limits
Warsaw traffic can become a serious problem - particu-
larly during the week. Most major hotels are located in the
central area and you should be heading in most cases for
the Central Train Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna)
and its neighbour, the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking
in the central area is generally available on-street where
there are standard parking charges payable at roadside
machines. Most major hotels will offer some form of off-
road guarded parking. Be warned that Polish roads and
Polish drivers are not the best especially i f you have driven
in western Europe.
Indeed, Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road
fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the
pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor
road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different
traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration
for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled car
wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control
irresponsible driving, and dont be surprised to see cars
shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking
a claim for the Formula 1 championship.
The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between
23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/
hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways.
Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for
drivers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter
of the law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit,
warning triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right
and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost
you 200z (for using a mobile), 100z (not wearing a seat
belt) and up to 500z for speeding. The legal limit for drink
driving is 0.2 blood/alcohol level. Put simply, i f youre
driving, dont drink.
EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as
they are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt ratify
the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will
find their licenses invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone
we know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your license
and passport at all times when driving.
Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be
switched on at all times.
Guarded Parking B-3, ul. Krlewska 11 (Sofitel War-
saw Victoria Hotel).
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
15
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
By Plane
Getting in and out of Warsaw by plane improved drastically
in recent times. The capitals main air hub - Chopin Airport
- got a modern overhaul, while budget carriers moved in at
the new Modlin Airport just northwest of the city. That was
until winter came and the Modlin runway cracked apart
(bravo). It has finally been repaired after months of being
offline, but WizzAir has seen the writing on the wall and
will remain at Chopin while Ryanair is in talks to return to
Modlin in September.
Warsaw Chopin Airport (Lotnisko Chopina w
Warszawie) ul. wirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22
650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl. Warsaw Chopin
Airport has recently seen the opening of Zone CDE, a glass
and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly next to the older
Zone AB (which is currently under major renovation and
Car Rental
Budget ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
40 62, www.budget.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Dollar Thrifty Rent a Car ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Air-
port), tel. (+48) 668 66 33 00, www.dollar-rentacar.
com.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Hertz ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Also at (F-3) ul. Nowogrodzka
27 (Open 09:00 - 15:00, Mon, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00
- 12:00. Closed Sun.) QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Local Rent A Car B-3, ul. Marszakowska 140, tel.
(+48) 501 21 61 93, www.lrc.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 -
18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Avis ul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
48 72, www.avis.pl. Avi s
provide short-term and long-
term rentals, chauffeur drive service as well as cargo van
rentals. Theres over 1,000 models available, equipped
with air-conditioning, air bags and ABS for your guaranteed
comfort and safety. Also possible to exchange and swap
cars. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (B-4, Marriott Hotel)
and ul. opuszaska 12a (Wochy). QOpen 07:00 - 23:30.
Europcar ul. wirki i
Wigury 1 (Airport), tel.
(+48) 22 650 25 64,
www.europcar.pl. One of the worlds biggest car rental
companies offers rental solutions tailor made for travellers
(both short and long term) that will suit all needs (15 different
categories of cars are available; Europcar is present at all
Polish airports and many other convenient locations). Europ-
car creates flexible driving solutions to meet your individual
mobility needs. Note that the Radisson Blue Sobieski is a
meeting point (cars can be picked up and dropped off here).
Theres also an office at the new Modlin Airport, which will
be operational when Modlin is open. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Joka D-2, ul. Oko-
powa 47, tel. (+48)
609 18 10 20,
www.joka.com.pl.
A wide range of cars from the Opel Corsa to the spa-
cious Mercedes E-class. All cars are equipped with
power assisted steering. Satellite navigation systems
are also available. Special rates offered to those who
order through the Joka website, and go online to find
the latest seasonal promotions. Q Open 09:00-17:00,
Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Outside of these hours
open on request.
Sixt ul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
20 31, www.sixt.pl. One of
the worlds largest and oldest
car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from
short and long rental periods to holiday cars. Theres
even a fleet of limousines if youre interested. Vehicles
range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include
GPS and Sixt cards. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 49 (A-4,
InterContinental Hotel). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
therefore closed). Collecti vel y they are called Terminal
A, and the spacious CDE now handles all incoming and
outgoing traffic. The hallway connecting the zones houses
ATMs, exchange offices, tourist info, coffee shops and
snack marts.
The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 offers three certified
companies: Super Taxi, Sawa Taxi and Ele Taxi. The 15-30
minute ride to the centre costs around 30-45 zoty, though
be on guard for unlicensed sharks - theyll charge three or
four times that.
Cheapskates can catch the brand new train into the city or
get bus number 175.
The train station can be found underground by turning
right outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and
going all the way to the end of the covered section where
you will find escalators taking you down to ticket booths.
The SKM trains run three times per hour and are red and
white in color. Line S2 takes you to rdmiecie station
in the city center, while line S3 takes you to Warszawa
Centralna station. To take one of these trains you need a
normal public transport ticket (exactly the same as what
youd use for the bus) that are available from the ticket
booths and cost 4.40z. The KM trains run once per hour,
are green and white, and will take you to Centralna. They
have their own ticket office at the station with a fixed price
of 5zl, but you can use an SKM ticket here as long as you
have the train driver validate it. Got that? The train ride
should take around 20 minutes. Bus stops can be found
in front of arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CDE. Tickets for
the bus are also 4.40z (be sure to validate). Buses run
frequentl y between 04:57 and 22:57 with j ourney time
taking approximately 25 minutes. At night when the 175
stops running travelers can take the N32 night bus, which
runs every 30 minutes.
Warsaw Shuttle, tel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www.
warsawshuttle.com. The company offers private airport
transfer services at competitive prices from 79PLN per run.
Highest quality for the best possible price. Call in advance
to book.
Warszawa Lotnisko Chopina Train Station
ul. wirki i Wi gury 1 (Airpor t). The new rai l way
stati on connecti ng the ai rpor t and the ci t y centre
can be found by exi ti ng the arri val s hal l i n ei ther
termi nal and turni ng ri ght. The underground stati on
can be accessed by escal ators found j ust af ter the
covered area outsi de the termi nal s. See By Pl ane
for i nformati on on trai n desti nati ons, ti cket pri ces
and frequency.
The days when cash
bells would ring when-
ever a cab driver would
hear a foreign accent
might have passed, but
its still always better
to ri ng ahead rather
than just hailing a taxi
in the street. In particular avoid drivers who hawk their
services in the arrivals hall at the airport; weve heard
plenty of horror stories.
All the companies we list will usually have someone on
their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state-
run firm, can boast the most reliable reputation. But you
wont find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis
on the Marriott tower side of the central station; its the
second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your
driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the
countryside then by all means, feel free.
Ele Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl.
Halo Taxi OK, tel. (+48) 22 196 23,
www.halotaxiok.pl.
Merc Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 677 77 77,
www.6777777.pl.
MPT, tel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl.
Sawa Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 644 44 44,
www.sawataxi.com.pl.
Super Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 196 22,
www.supertaxi.pl.
Taxis
17
BASICS
16
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
ments; if there is any doubt about the value or age of your
purchase, we suggest you visit an Antykwariat (antiques
dealer - see shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from
the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug
convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our
residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without
a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If
they dont have one the best place to pick one up is at one
of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of
town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in
the airport as you leave.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an
ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police.
Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the
relevant department. English speaking assistance is not
necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabili-
ties of the operator.
English, German and Russian speakers have the option of
using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in
distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both
numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land line
and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your
stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during
the high-tourist season.
If youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can
be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further
help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list
of which can also be found in the Directory. If its a financial
emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money
transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors)
can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out
for the Western Union logo.
For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section
at the back of this guide.
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic
Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
Germany (467km), Li thuania (103km), the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km it
is Polands longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdask
(Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found
in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland.
Population (2012)
Poland: 38,533,299
Warsaw: 1,715,517
Krakw: 758,334
d: 718,960
Wrocaw: 631,188
Pozna: 550,742
Gdask: 460,427
Katowice: 307,233
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Warsaw its 11:00 in
London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the
last Sundays of March and October.
Facts & Figures
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
www.imgw.pl
Climate
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
R
a
in
fa
ll (m
m
)
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
T
e
m
p
e
ra
tu
re
(C
)
Rainfall
Temperature
Climate
Poland has a temperate climate with hot summers and cold
winters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than in the
west and temperatures can get down as low as -20 C in winter
and as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest weather tends
to hit around February although the long winter of 2009/10
saw a record low temperature in Poland of -32 degrees. Be-
low is a graphic showing average temperatures and rainfall.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their
age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be both
less than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies
depending by type; photos 6,000z, other art 16,000z, for
example); if these conditions are met, the gallery curator can
then provide you with a zawiadczenie (permission docu-
ment) describing the artworks price and when and where it
was created. If the work exceeds the permitted age or value,
you must get permission from the Wojewdzki Konserwator
Zabytkw (Regional Curators Office) to take it out of Poland;
bear in mind that this process will likely take 2-3 months.
Books must be less than 100 years old and under 6,000z in
value in order to leave the country; if neither applies, permis-
sion must be obtained from the National Library. Obviously,
problems arise when purchases are made at bazaars or flea
markets where vendors cannot provide the necessary docu-
By Bus
If you come to Warsaw by bus, odds are youll be landing
at the main bus station on Al. Jerozolimskie, while budget
options like PolskiBus drop passengers off at Dworzec
Autobusowy Metro Wilanowska, a short distance from the
Metro Wilanowska stop.
Main Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warsza-
wa Zachodnia) D-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48)
703 40 33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Coaches arrive and
depart - unless otherwise stated - from the Warsaw West
Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia).
Find a currency exchange and two ATM (bankomat) machines
located in the main hall. There is no Tourist Info point, for the
closest youll have to make the journey into the Palace of
Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emill Plater). Theres
a legitimate left-luggage operation, as well as five payphones
located in one of the side corridors (though youll need to buy
phone cards to use them). You can do that by visiting one of
the Relay kiosks in the main hall. Youll also be able to buy SIM
cards, prepaid cards and transport cards from here. Taxis
to centre run between 20-25zl (refuse a lift from any of the
smiling unlicensed operators who offer you a lift). The bus
running to the centre is found right across a busy highway
and getting there is an adventure in itself seeing there are
no signposts in the subway leading there. Basically from the
main hall duck down under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head
down the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its conclu-
sion, turn right again - youll see two stairwells leading to the
surface. Take the left one and presto, theres your bus stop.
Confused? Not half as much as we were. Good work Warsaw.
To get to Central Station take bus number 127,158 or 517.
At night youll be needing and N35 or N85. The journey takes
approximately 15 minutes so buy a 3,40z ticket valid for 20
minutes. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding. Q
Ticket office open 05:30 - 22:00.
PolskiBus ul. Puawska 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy
Metro Wilanowska, s.14), www.polskibus.com. Note
that the Warsaw-Gdask route leaves from Metro Mociny.
Private Transport
Helicopter.pl ul. Ksiycowa 3 (Bielany), Bldg #15,
tel. (+48) 509 26 04 00, www.helicopter.pl. Why travel
with the masses when you can opt for your own private
flight in a helicopter? Helicopter.pl offers flights throughout
Poland via hubs in Warsaw and Wrocaw. Flights take place
in Eurocopters, which are renowned for their safety and
modern design. Provide the number of people (and luggage)
as well as your desired destination to the staff and theyll
draw up a quote.
Call us: +48 509 260 400, www.helicopter.pl
Warsaw Helicopter Tours
luxury Eurocopter helicopters
Public Transport
Public Transport, www.
ztm.waw.pl. Warsaw has
an extensi ve bus and tram
system cri ss- crossi ng the
ci ty as well as a good, but
very li mi ted, metro system
running from north to south.
Over 1,500 buses operate in
and around the city, and most
run from between 05:00 and
23:00. After that night buses
run on most routes twice every
hour. All night buses display
the letter N, followed by a two
di gi t number. Fast buses
(marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.
Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be
bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow
RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There
are now also a series of ticket machines with instructions
in English dotted around the city, and English translations
are printed on tickets.
A standard public transport single ticket costs 4.40z.
If youre travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw youll be
needing a ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 - these are
priced at 7z. Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still with us?
Good. Tickets are also available for specific time periods and
come valid for 20, 40 and 60 minutes. These are priced at
3.40z, 4.60z and 6.40z. Tickets valid for 24 hrs are priced
at 15 or 24z i f travelling through both zones. Three day
tickets cost 30z or 48z for both zones. Children ride free
until the end of the August of the year they turn 7. (Re-
ally. Probably makes sense with vodka. Have proof of age ID
handy). Everyone else pays full fare unless in possession of
an ISIC card (in which case you must be 26 and under). This
entitles you to buy a reduced ticket (ulgowy) which costs
approximately 50% of the full fare.
You can buy single tickets from the driver, though you must
have exact change. Once youve got a ticket you will need to
validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating the
magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be done
before you get on board. It is no longer necessary to buy an
extra ticket for animals or large pieces of luggage. Plain clothes
ticket inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing out 220z
for those without valid tickets (we understand quick payment
results in the fine being lessened). They often dont look very
official and you are within your rights to request identification,
or even do as the locals do, and attempt to bargain them down.
18
BASICS
19
BASICS
Post
Central Post Office (UP Warszawa 1) A-3, ul.
witokrzyska 31/33, tel. (+48) 22 505 35 34, www.
poczta-polska.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Post Office (UP Warszawa 15) C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy
13, tel. (+48) 22 629 72 69, www.poczta-polska.pl.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Public Toilets
2theloo A/B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Warszawa
Centralna Train Station), www.2theloo.com. Toilet
C-4, ul. Krucza 51.
Toilet B-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 22/24.
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genu-
ine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more
profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many
Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly
started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern
Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes
Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-
going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a
bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent
processions that occur from time to time and the droves
that flock to mass.
Water
Water in Poland is officially safe to drink although the qual-
ity of plumbing in many places can affect the quality of the
water that is delivered from your tap. We therefore recom-
mend that you use bottled water which is widely available
and inexpensive. The best known bottled local brands are
ywiec, Cisowianka, Kropla Beskidu and Naczowianka. In
restaurants many tourists are surprised to find a glass of
water is not compulsory, and ordering some typically results
in the receipt of a tiny glass bottle that will barely wet your
whistle. Beer is often a better bet since its cheaper and ar-
rives in larger quantities, but if youre set on having water its
best to learn the difference between gazowana (carbonated
water) and niegazowana (still water).
Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy
command of the English language. Many are also
adept at other European languages with German being
the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely
contest that they have ' forgotten' the Russian taught
to them at school but most will still have a reasonable
understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal,
often resulting in personal degradation as shop
assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside,
learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in
Krakw and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult
languages for native English speakers to learn. On the
upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled
the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once
you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of
letters. While many letters represent the same sounds
as they do in English, below we have listed those
particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and
phrases. Powodzenia (good luck)!
Basic pronunciation:
'' sounds like 'on' in the French 'bon'
'' sounds like 'en' as in the French 'bien'
'' is an open 'o' sound like 'oo' in 'boot'
'c' like the 'ts' in 'bits''
'j' like the 'y' in 'yeah'
'w' is pronounced like the English 'v'
'' like the 'w' in 'win'
'' like the 'ny' in 'canyon'
'cz' and '' like the 'ch' in 'beach'
'dz' like the 'ds' in 'beds'
'rz' and '' like the 'su' in 'treasure'
'sz' and '' like the 'sh' in 'ship'
'drz' like the 'g' in 'George'
'r' is always rolled
Yes Tak (Tahk)
No Nie (Nyeh)
Hi/Bye (informal) Cze (Cheshch)
Hello/Good day
(formal)
Dzie dobry (Jen doh-bri)
Good evening
(formal)
Dobry wieczr (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)
Please Prosz (Prosheh)
Thank you Dzikuj (Jen-koo-yeh)
Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... Mam na imi... (Mam nah ee-myeh)
I'm from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)
Do you speak
English?
Czy mwisz po
angielsku?
(Che moo-veesh po
an-gyel-skoo?)
I don't speak
Polish.
Nie mwi po
polsku.
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po
pol-skoo.)
I don't understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa prosz. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)
Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)
Where are the
toilets?
Gdzie s toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
You are beauti ful. Jeste pikna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
I love you. Kocham ci. (Ko-hahm chuh.)
Please take me
home.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
(Prosheh za-byesh
mnyeh doh doh-moo.)
Call me! Zadzwo do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh
mnyeh!)
Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)
Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah
Ess)
One ticket to Jeden bilet do (Yeh-den bee-let doh)
Language Smarts
drunk tank (ul. Kolska 2/4), a chastening experience which
will set you back 250z for an up to 24 hour stay. In return for
your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and
the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention
a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of course).
The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by
jaywalking. If you are from a country which has no (or doesnt
respect) jaywalking laws, youll be surprised to see a crowd
of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the
lights to change. This peculiarity has extra effect if you are
aware of how little Poles respect the rules of the road in a
vehicle, where it often feels like a survival of the fittest. The
reason for the obedience of this particular rule is the fact
that the local city police (Stra Miejska) will quite freely give
you a 50-100z fine for crossing a road at a place where no
crossing is marked or a 100z fine when the walk light is
red. And dont think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor.
You are subject to the law too and your non-residency means
you will need to pay the fine on the spot.
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100z
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and
bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as
coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes
come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 zotys,
and there are 1, 2 and 5 zoty coins. One zoty equals 100
groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will
also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your
ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the
banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious
reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations
and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you
with the best rate. The Polish currency has been exceedingly
strong in recent years and the value of the dollar has nearly
halved while you will be getting 25-40% less zoty for your
euros and sterling than a couple of years back. Having said
that prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still
remain comparatively cheap in contrast to Western Europe.
A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than
20z while admission to most museums costs around 5-10z.
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of July 15, 2013
based on 1 = 4.26z
Product Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac 9.20 z 2.16
Snickers 1.59 z 0.37
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.99 z 5.40
0.5ltr beer (shop) 3.39 z 0.80
0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 z 2.11
Loaf of white bread 2.79 z 0.65
20 Marlboros 13.60 z 3.19
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.89 z 1.38
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 4.40 z 1.03
Market Values
August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin
Mary, also Polish Army Day
November 1 All Saints Day
November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
December 25 First Day of Christmas
December 26 Second Day of Christmas
January 1, 2014 New Years Day
January 6, 2014 Three Kings
April 20, 2014 Easter Sunday
April 21, 2014 Easter Monday
May 1, 2014 Labour Day
May 3, 2014 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)
June 8, 2014 Pentecost Sunday
June 19, 2014 Corpus Christi
National Holidays
PLN US$ Euro Pound
3.27z = $1 4.26z = 1 4.94z = 1
1 z $0.31 0.23 0.20
2 z $0.61 0.47 0.40
3 z $0.92 0.70 0.61
4 z $1.22 0.94 0.81
5 z $1.53 1.17 1.01
6 z $1.83 1.41 1.21
7 z $2.14 1.64 1.42
8 z $2.45 1.88 1.62
9 z $2.75 2.11 1.82
10 z $3.06 2.35 2.02
20 z $6.12 4.69 4.05
50 z $15.29 11.74 10.12
100 z $30.58 23.47 20.24
150 z $45.87 35.21 30.36
200 z $61.16 46.95 40.49
250 z $76.45 58.69 50.61
1 000 z $305.81 234.74 202.43
Quick Currency Convertor
Internet
Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland,
with practically every caf and restaurant offering wi-fi to
customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the
network often requires nothing more than a password, which
you can request of your favorite bartender or barista with a
simple, Poprosz o haso do internetu If you dont have
your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options below.
Arena F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 5, tel. (+48) 22 629 07 76,
http://www.arenacafe.pl/. The first hour of Internet use
is 6 z, each additional hour is 4 z. Q Open 24hrs.
Cyber Cafe ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (in Courtyard by
Marriott), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 72, www.courtyard-
warsawairport.com. Polands best internet cafe. Seating
sixty people the Courtyard Cyber Cafe offers high-speed
wireless access, as well as a menu that puts most Warsaw
cafes to shame. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00.
Law & Order
In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and
visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does
exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets
working tram and bus routes by the train station. If youre
in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those
travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park.
Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using
clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around
the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned state
company MPT (tel. 22 19191) is possibly the best bet, and
their switchboard features English speaking operators. The
vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are
by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaws right bank
has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go reputation,
though is now fast becoming ever more trendy.
Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for
tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel
and drink accordingly. If youre determined to make an idiot of
yourself then make sure its not in front of the law. In recent
years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca costumes to
complete fools whove thought its perfectly acceptable to
drop trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain have tested
the patience of the local law enforcement. Their tolerance
threshold is now decidedly low so dont push your luck. Those
who do may well be treated to a trip to Warsaws premier
21
CULTURE & EVENTS
20
CULTURE & EVENTS
The Music Theatre ROMA (Teatr Muzyczny
ROMA) A-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, tel. (+48) 22 628 89
98, www.teatrroma.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. From September open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
13:00 - 18:00, or until showtime. Tickets 30-150z.
Concerts
20.08 Tuesday
Roger Waters
H- 2, Nati onal Stadi um, Al . Ksi ci a J. Poni a-
towskiego 1, www.rogerwaters.com. Roger Waters
is - of course - none other than co-founder and l yri cist
of Pink Fl oyd, the band that bl essed the worl d wi th the
al bums The Dark Side of the Moon and The Wall.
Waters is bri ngi ng that second one back, per formi ng
the entire The Wall show the way i ts been per formed
192 times before ( j ust scal ed up!). Q Concert starts at
17:30. Ti ckets 198-1310z. Availabl e at www.li venation.
pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00).
21.08 Wednesday
Jason Mraz
Palladium Club, ul. Zota 9, www.go-ahead.pl. Jason
Mraz is a singer-songwriter from Virginia, who also plays
the guitar, piano, mandolin, mandola, banjo, and ukulele.
His breakthrough came wi th the rel ease of the al bum
We Dance. We Sing. We Steal Things.; the hit single
"Im Yours" went multi-platinum. He followed with Love
Is a Four Letter Word in 2012. Over the course of his
career, the musician has been awarded two Grammies
and a Peoples Choice Award. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 105-120z.
Art Galleries
Kordegarda B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 15/17,
tel. (+48) 22 421 01 25, www.kordegarda.org.QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Stairs Gallery (Galeria Schody) C-3, ul. Nowy wiat
39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl.
QOpen 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Zachta National Gallery of Art (Zachta Nar-
odowa Galeria Sztuki) B-3, Pl. Maachowskiego 3,
tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5z, Thu free.
Cinemas
IMAX ul. Powsiska 31 (Sadyba), tel. (+48) 22 550
33 33, www.kinoimax.pl. Q Box office open from 30
minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the
last showtime. Tickets 22-35z.
Multikino Zote Tarasy A-4, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48)
22 462 81 10, www.multikino.pl. Also at Al. Ken 60
(Ursynw), Wola Park, ul. Grczewska 124 (Wola); Centrum
Targwek, ul. Gbocka 15 (Targwek). Q Box office open
from 09:00 to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets
19-34z.
Cultural Centres
Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts
(Mazowieckie Centrum Kultury i Sztuki) A-3,
ul. Elektoralna 12, tel. (+48) 22 586 42 59, www.
mckis.waw.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
From September open 10:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun depending
on repertoire. Price depending on event.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Wspczesnej Zamek
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64
08, www.csw.art.pl. Q Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 -
21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
Opera Stages
Great Theatre - National Opera (Teatr Wielki
- Opera Narodowa) B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48)
22 826 50 19, www.teatrwielki.pl.QBox office open
09:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Note that box
office opening hours may be subject to change. Note that
the Opera takes a summer break until September 15.
Tickets 28-160z.
Philharmonic Stages
National Philharmonic (Filharmonia Narodowa)
B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 22 551 71 28,
www.filharmonia.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending on the repertoire. The season
begins in September. Tickets 25-250z.
Theatre Stages
National Theatre (Teatr Narodowy) B-2, Pl. Teat-
ralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 04, www.narodowy.pl.Q
Box office open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depend-
ing on repertoire. Closed Mon. Note that the Theatre is on a
holiday break until September. Tickets 40-90z.
Stage On Wola (Scena na Woli im. Tadeusza
omnickiego) ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48)
22 656 68 44, www.teatrdramatyczny.pl.QBox office
open 12:00 - 19:00, or until showtime. Tickets 20-70z. The
Theatre is on a holiday break until August 23.
24.05 Friday - 10.09 Tuesday
La Playa Music Bar
C-1, ul. Wybrzee
Helskie 1/5, tel.
(+48) 22 331 49
75, www.laplaya.
pl. One of the best
parts about Warsaw
in summer, and what
keeps everyone go-
ing in the midst of the
achingly cold winters, is the seasonal La Playa Music
Bar. Opening again for the eighth summer in a row it
plans to be available until the first chill hits the air, which
means you have plenty of summer nights to linger at this
sand-filled venue. This unique music club is situated on
the shores of the Vistula riverside, and its an attractive
alternative if youre in the capital this summer and dont
want to sip your drink while steaming amongst concrete
buildings. La Playa offers the possibility to spend time
outside, play beach volleyball, frisbee and badminton
tournaments, use the skimboard track or just chill out on
a deck chair. And on weekends La Playa organizes salsa
& samba themed evenings for a little culture with your
cocktail. So give yourself a day off at the beach, relax with
a drink and listen to chillout music and take in the view
of the old town over the river. Just be sure to bring your
own sunscreen or those beachy memories will be tinged
with pain. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00; Fri 12:00 - 02:00; Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 02:00. Admission free.
La Playa Music Bar
Sunday Chopin Concerts in Royal azienki
Park G- 4, Royal azienki Park, ul. Agrykoli 1,
www.estrada.com.pl. Visi ting Poland and not at-
tending a Chopin concert is like... going to the Vatican
without seeing the Pope, as a certain saying goes. Its
beauti ful out this time of year, and the azienki park
is lushly green and soothing and lovely - even more
so when youre listening to masterfully played piano
music. Free admission, what else could you possibly
want? A fantastic way to relax and unwind this is. Q
Concerts take place every Sun at 12:00 and 16:00.
Admission free.
Chopin Concerts
Photo: Adam Oleksiak
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
23
CULTURE & EVENTS
about the state of the world and the degradation humans
are inflicting on the natural environment, then you should
definitely go. Exhibition is in Polish and English, and fea-
tures all sorts of multimedia wonders that actually just
waste more electricity and further pollution. Drop by the
Brain Exhibit while youre at the Palace. Q Open 09:00 -
18:00. Admission 18/12z.
14.05 Tuesday - 06.01 Monday
In the Heart of the Country
A- 3, ul. Emilii Plater 51, www.artmuseum.pl. This
exhi bi ti on i s the fi rst comprehensi ve presentati on of
the international coll ection of the Museum of Modern
Art in Warsaw, whi ch has amassed over three hundred
works since 2005. About hal f on those will be on show,
covering themes such as the gl obalisation of art history,
emancipatory narrati ves in art, and language and eth-
i cs of moderni ty. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Cl osed Mon.
Admission free.
07.06 Friday - 01.09 Sunday
Mark Rothko. Paintings from National Gallery
of Art in Washington
C-4, National Museum, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48)
22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. This exhibition docu-
ments Rothkos entire lifetime of work. One of the most fa-
mous postwar American artists (alongside Jackson Pollack
and Willem de Koonig), Rothko was known for his color field
style of painting. He left behind over 800 abstract canvases;
last year, his Orange, Red, Yellow sold for 86.9 million USD
at an auction, breaking the record for any postwar painting at
a public auction. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admis-
sion 20/15z, family ticket 50z.
Follow POLANDIYP on
23.08 Friday - 31.08 Saturday
13th International Mime Art Festival
Stage On Wola, ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), www.
mime.pl. Hey, did you know that this is actually the only
festival in the world to feature only non-verbal mime
performances (or so the organisers claim)? And if you
thought that miming couldnt possibly be diverse enough
for a week-long festival, think again: the shows will include
classic Marcel Marceau style pantomime, physical the-
atre, modern pantomime, a spectacle inspired by Henryk
Tomaszewski, light and comical Ukrainian pantomime,
and others; troupes from France, Germany, Ukraine,
and Czech Republic will make appearances. The full
programme is as follows:
Friday, August 23rd:
Szatnia (The Cloakroom) by the Wrocaw Pantomime
Theatre
This show is based on choreography from Henryk To-
maszewski, the Theatres legendary founder, who - apart
from being a mime - was also a dancer, choreographer,
director, and teacher. No less than eighteen performers
will appear on stage.
Saturday, August 24th:
On the Dark Road and Dante - Light in a Darkness
by Tantehorse (CZ)
These two surrealist and dreamlike performances from
the genres of physical theatre and modern pantomime
tell of sin, love, desire, heaven and hell.
Sunday, August 25th:
AGUA DE LAGRIMAS by the Warsaw Pantomime Centre
This is the world premiere of Warsaw Pantomime Cen-
tres classical Marcel Marceau pantomime. The show
tells the story of Mr. Jefferson, an experienced perfume
maker whose fame fades as public tastes change. When
he hires the skeevy and macabre Frollo, he begins work
on a new fragrance...
Tuesday, August 27th:
Quartet DEK.RU - classic Ukrainian pantomime
Elegant, delicate, ironic, and every-so-often philosophi-
cal. DEK.RU was founded in 2010 in Kiev, and its per-
formers are graduates of the Mime Department of Kiev
Municipal Mime and Circus Academy.
Thursday, August 29th:
Modern Mime Evening
This event is already a Mime Art Festival tradition, a
clash of several dozen international artists representing
different styles of pantomime. Participants will include
DEK.RU, Yulia Domashets, Radomir and Aneta Piorun,
Mariusz Sikorski, and Bartomiej Ostapczuk.
Friday, August 30th:
Tell Me the Truth And Other Stories by Compagnie
Mangano-Massip
Sara Mangano and Pierre-Yves Massip are a dynamic
duo that started out performing in Marcel Marceaus
Company and went on to found their own.
Saturday, August 31st:
Follow the Light by Bodecker/Neander Company
An old favorite among Warsaw audiences: its the sixth
time at the Festival for these three artists.
Mime Art Festival
21.09 Saturday
The Doors Alive
B-3/4, Palladium Club, ul. Zota 9, www.eventim.
pl. The Doors Alive are - as you might expect - a tribute
band (and apparently a good one at that). They use origi-
nal seventies instruments to create the most authentic
sound, and the vocalists emulation of Jim Morrison is
believable enough to say that this is the closest you can
come to listening to the legendary band live. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 89z. Available at www.eventim.
pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00).
22.09 Sunday
The Boxer Rebellion
Hydrozagadka Club, ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga),
www.go-ahead.pl. Indi e rock band The Boxer Rebel -
lion have been around since 2001, formed in London by
US-American Nathan Nicholson, Australian Todd Howe,
and Englishmen Adam Harrison and Piers Hewitt. They
released four studio albums in that time: Exits, Union,
The Cold Still, and Promises (the last one came out
just a couple months ago). Q Concert starts at 19:00.
Tickets 45-50z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik (ul.
Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00)
and before the concert.
Exhibitions
02.04 Tuesday - 10.12 Tuesday
Our Planet - See What We May Lose
B- 4, Palace of Culture and Science, Pl. Defilad 1
(viewing level on 30th floor, www.estrada.com.pl.
Sounds tree-huggy, and it is - i f you want to get depressed
Warsaw Chamber Opera
(Warszawska Opera Kam-
eralna) A-1, Al. Solidarnoci
76b, tel. (+48) 22 625 75
10, www.operakameralna.
pl. The Warsaw Chamber Op-
era was founded in 1961 by
Stefan Sutkowski, who has
served as i ts Managing and
Arti sti c Di rector ever si nce.
The companys inaugural pro-
duction, performed on the 4th
September 1961, was Pergolesis La Serva Padrona.
Since October 1986 the Opera has performed at its
own theatre, a listed building dating from 1775 whose
audience contributes to the acoustic sound created.
The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans a
wide variety of musical styles and genres: from medieval
mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque and Clas-
sical periods, 18th century pantomimes, the operas by
Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by contemporary
composers.
The Warsaw Chamber Opera ensembles also give regular
concerts featuring chamber, oratorio and symphonic
music of various epochs. In 1984 the Warsaw Chamber
Opera established the Research and Documentation
Centre of Early Polish Music. It deals with the research,
publ i cati on, per formance and recordi ng of newl y-
discovered works by Polish composers.
The music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart has long occu-
pied a prominent place in the companys repertoire. The
Warsaw Chamber Opera is the only company in the world
to have Mozarts entire operatic output in its permanent
repertoire and this unprecedented achievement has won
the Warsaw company-wide international recognition. In
addition to this the Warsaw Chamber Opera has also
organized the 4th Claudio Monteverdi Festival, The Cel-
ebrations to mark 400 Years of Opera as a Genre and
An Ode to Europe Festival. Q Box office open 14:30
- 19:00; Sat, Sun 3 hours before the spectacle. Closed
Mon. Note that the Opera takes a summer break until
mid-September. Tickets 20-130z.
Warsaw Chamber Opera
Festivals
17th International Jazz at the Old Town Square
Festival B- 1/2, Rynek Starego Miasta, www.
jazznastarowce.pl. Since the Old City Square is set for
renovations, the festival is starting a bit early this year.
However, this still means a full summer of free jazz concerts
by Polish and international musicians. Past editions have
included performances by Anna Maria Jopek, David Murray,
Kenny Wheeler, and Duffy Jackson. Concerts are free, so
expect crowds - up to 4000 people gather on the square for
any one show. Q Concerts take place every Sat at 19:00. Full
schedule available at www.jazznastarowce.pl. Admission free.
24
CULTURE & EVENTS
24.08 Saturday - 01.09 Sunday
Singers Warsaw Festival of Jewish Culture
A/B-3, Event takes place in various locations., www.
festiwalsingera.pl. Jewish culture festivals abound in
Poland, especially in Krakw and Warsaw, both large cit-
ies with a rich Jewish history. Singers Warsaw is a yearly
festival of music, theatre, film, literature, and visual arts;
this years highlights include performances by Tomasz
Stako New York Quartet, Ron Davis, Joshua Nelson, and
Kayah, meetings with historian and Holocaust survivor
Wadysaw Bartoszewski and other prominent individuals,
workshops, and more. The Singer in question is Isaac
Bashevis Singer, a Polish-Jewish novelist and Nobel Prize
laureate. Q Ticket prices were undecided at the moment.
Available at www.eventim.pl and in Jewish Theatre box
office (Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, A/B-3, open 11:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:30 - 18:00).
06.09 Friday - 07.09 Saturday
Burn Selector Festival 2013
Suewiec Racecourse, ul. Puawska 266 (Mokotw),
www.selectorfestival.pl. Burn Selector is an electronic/
dance music festival that started out only very recently, but
has already been nominated for Best Medium Festival at
the European Festival Awards - twice. This years line-up
includes Archive, Breakbot, Busy P, Capital Cities, James
Blake, Jessie Ware, Para One, The Knife, and When Saints
Go Machine. Q One-day ticket 155z, festival pass 245z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3,
open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
Multimedia Fountain Park B-1, Skwer im. I
Dywizji Pancernej, www.estrada.com.pl. Warm
weather is here, and so is a new artistic season at the
Multimedia Fountain Park. It kicked off on May 3rd with
the premiere of their newest show, Water Symphony,
and the special effects wont disappoint - symphonic
renditions of classical, film, and electronic music will
be accompanied by a narrative on the big water screen
(characters, images, animated films), spacial elements
like the conductors three-dimensional laser reflection,
and - of course - perfectly timed colored water jets. Last
year, 700,000 people showed up to witness the light,
water & sound show, and this year the artistic directors
have kicked it up a few notches, hoping to attract even
larger crowds. The shows last approximately hal f an
hour, and should be great fun for the whole family. Q
Shows take place Fri and Sat at 21:30. Admission free.
Multimedia Fountain Park
Photo: Adam Oleksiak
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
The latest events online:
27
HOTELS
26
CULTURE & EVENTS
Misc. Events
30.09 Monday
Chippendales
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert.
com/pl. Thats right, twelve shirtless hunks stripping for a
mostly-female audience; the Chippendales show has become
a legend since its start in 1979, spawning numerous spin-
offs and legitimising male stripping as classy fun for women
of all ages (the same thing 50 Shades of Grey recently did for
erotica novels). Q Show starts at 19:00. Tickets 60-250z.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3,
open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
Opera
27.09 Friday
Verdi Gala
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. Verdi Gala is an inter-
national project in honor of the Italian composers 200th
birthday. The show includes the best bits of the best operas:
La Traviata, Rigoletto, Aida, Nabucco, and will be performed
by Silvia Rampazzo, Giulio Boschetti, Silvano Frontalini, and a
ninety-person chorous and orchestra led by Marek Tracz. Q
Event starts at 19:30. Tickets 40-140z. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
Cream of the Crop
Hotel Bri stol War saw C- 2, ul . Krakowski e
Przedmiecie 42/44, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.
hotelbristolwarsaw.pl. Breathe in history by booking a
night in Warsaws most famous hotel. The plaque in the
marble clad lobby lists dozens of stars and royalty who have
chosen to lodge here, and to countdown the facilities on offer
would require an hour of your time. The rooms are dressed
in an understated neutral palette while the public areas
are still heaped with elegance and plenty of chandeliers.
But for all the five star perks and trimmings our favourite
touch is the courtyard garden; an oasis of luxury perfect for
evening drinks. The hotels floor by floor renovations have
finally been completed, so youll be staying in fully refreshed
digs that now include a wine bar to boot. Q206 rooms (168
singles, 168 doubles, 37 apartments, 1 Paderewski Suite).
PTJHAR6UFGKDCW hhhhh
Hyatt Regency Warsaw G-5, ul. Belwederska 23,
tel. (+48) 22 558 12 34, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.
com. Situated right on the doorstep of azienki Park, the
Hyatt not only has all the five star trimmings, but the big-
gest hotel swimming pool in Warsaw. By hotel standards
the rooms are enormous, and come with easy-on-the-eye
cream colours and huge showerheads designed for that
mock rain experi ence. Q246 rooms (88 si ngl es, 129
doubles, 27 suites, 1 Diplomatic Suite, 1 Presidential Suite).
POTHAR6UFLGKDCwW hhhh
InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22
328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. A beau-
tiful three-legged structure, the Warsaw InterContinental is
nothing short of an architectural marvel. Accommodation
fits the setting, with spacious rooms using pleasant colour
combinations and including every facility one would expect.
Setting it apart from the competition is a fitness centre
and swimming pool on the 43rd floor, and huge residential
suites for long-term guests. Q414 rooms (336 singles, 336
doubles, 78 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PTHA
R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina Warsaw B-1, ul.
Kocielna 12, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www.mamaison.
com/leregina. Rated by many as the most stylish hotel in
Warsaw, the Regina is the bottom line in elegance and comes
set behind a row of pastel coloured colonnades in Warsaws
New Town area. No expense has been spared in creating this
luxury retreat, with bleached oak and marble mocha used for
flooring, and restored frescoes featuring in many of the rooms.
A monastic quiet prevails throughout this courtyard centred
hotel, with interiors featuring a soothing combo of whites,
creams and caramel colours. Q61 rooms (58 singles, 58
doubles, 1 Penthouse, 1 Le Regina Suite, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTJHARUFGKDCW hhhhh
Marriott B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48) 22
630 63 06, www.warsawmarriott.pl. A hotel with real
pedigree, the Warsaw Marriott has everything from Warsaws
classiest doorman outside to award winning restaurants
inside. The accommodation has been home to a long line
of visiting nabobs, including President Obama. An extensive
program of renovation has recently seen all the rooms up-
graded and the beds are so comfortable you may not wish
to leave them. Little details include lemon shampoo in the
bathrooms, mini-bars complete with pipes of Pringles and
views that stretch right across the city. Q518 rooms (423
singles, 423 doubles, 31 suites, 60 apartments, 2 Vice
Presidential Suite, 1 Presidential Suite). POTHA
R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Warsaw i s a busi -
ness ci ty fi rst and
foremost, and oc-
cupancy rates reflect
that. Prices dip the
moment the cl ock
hits Friday, 5pm, and
youll find some great
discounts available
i f you hunt around
online. A good place
to start is at poland.
i nyourpocket. com
where our Hotel Calculator scours booking engines for
the best rates based on your criteria (you can thank us
later). The Warsaw hotel market reflects the citys im-
age as the corporate briefcase of Eastern Europe and
comes well equipped with five star offerings as well as
a new breed of options for thri fty travellers. Warsaw
now has a group of Golden Keys concierges and their
tips for the coming months can be found in our Ask the
Concierge box.
Here is a list of recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local:
Be King of the Castle by booking into Castle Inn, where
rooms custom designed by local artists offer a uniquely
modern angle to the Old Town setting. For something
more upmarket check into the Polonia Palace, a re-
stored art nouveau building bang in the centre. Or why
not see what its like to be a (wealthy) local, and rent out
an apartment - we vouch for Residence St Andrews,
class apartments in an A1 location.
Cheap:
Oki Doki i s i deal i f youre l ooki ng to meet up wi th
random travel ers from around the gl obe, especi al l y
si nce the hostel promi ses the cheapest beer i n
Warsaw, whi l e newcomer Moon Hostel i s a l i ttl e
more upscal e ( fl atscreens i n the rooms) and a
l i ttl e l ess backpackeresque i f youve aged out of
beer deal s.
Lads:
I f youre touring in numbers then go for a name brand,
all of which tend to drop their rates at weekends. I f
you want to be central and close to the action then try
The Golden Tulip, Radisson Blu and Campanile. I f
quick access to the airport is an essential requirement
then the new Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport
has you covered.
Couples:
MaMaison Le Regina is the perfect honeymoon ex-
perience, and right in the middle of romantic new town.
Alternatively, you can splash out on the all Art Deco junior
suite at the Rialto to truly impress your significant other.
Splurge:
The city has seen a number of new hotels in recent
years and while we can vouch for all the major hotels,
it might be worth taking a look at the price comparison
service hotelcalculator on the hotel pages of poland.
inyourpocket.com.
Lodgings at a Glance
TR Warszawa G-4, ul. Marszakowska 8, tel. (+48)
22 480 80 08, www.trwarszawa.pl. Q Open from Au-
gust 16, 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00,
Sun 13:00 - 19:00 and before the spectacle. (40-120z).
13.09 Friday, 14.09 Saturday, 15.09 Sunday
Nosferatu
B-2, Spectacle takes place
at National Theatre, Pl. Teat-
ralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 480
80 08, www.trwarszawa.pl.
Bram Stokers Dracula still has
a profound effect on popular cul-
ture to this day. The 1897 novel
has been remade and adapted into innumerable plays and
films; over 200 movies feature the blood-sucking villain in
a major role, a number second only to Sherlock Holmes.
The 1922 film Nosferatu was an iconic example, and this
play of the same name hopes to live up to expectations.
Grzegorz Jarzynas adaptation deals with themes such as
the human need for transgression, social and symbolic
limits, and escape from identity. The show premiered
in 2011 and has been co-produced with the National
Audiovisual Institute, Barbican, London, Dublin Theatre
Festival, Adelaide Festival, and TR Warszawa Foundation.
Q Tickets 40-80z. Available at National Theatre Box Of-
fice (open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending
on repertoire. Closed Mon) and TR Warszawa Box Office
(Open from August 16, 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00,
Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00 and before the
spectacle). Spectacle starts at 19:00.
TR Warszawa
www.trwarszawa.pl
facebook.com/trwarszawa
(dir. Grzegorz Jarzyna)
13.09 / 7.00 pm
14.09 / 7.00 pm
15.09 / 7.00 pm
at Teatr Narodowy
N O S F E
R A T U
25.09 Wednesday - 29.09 Sunday
Cross Culture Festival
B-4, Tent in front of the Pal-
ace of Culture and Science,
Pl. Defilad 1, www.festival.
warszawa.pl. Cross Culture is
a music festival with the aim of
opening up to cultural and artistic
variety and journeying into the
most interesting musical re-
gions. This years theme is Islands of the World, and the artists
live up to the expectation in that regard, hailing from locations
as far apart as Trinidad and Tobago, Reunion, and Sardinia.
The following world musicians are expected at the festival:
The Garifuna Collective, representatives of the Garifuna
community (descendants of African slaves brought to the
Caribbean in the seventeenth century) located on the coast
of Belize, Nicaragua, Guatemala, and Honduras.
Moana & The Tribe, a New Zealand group that combines
Maori music, taonga puoro, canticles, haka, with reggae
and classical.
Calypso Rose, a 73-year-old diva and ambassador of
Caribbean music from Trinidad and Tobago, who has
previously performed with Michael Jackson, Bob Marley,
Miriam Makeba, Tito Puente, and Roberta Flack.
Lindigo, one of the most popular bands of the French island
of Runion, located east of Madagascar. Their music de-
rives from maloya tradition and combines Malagasy singing
with Brazilian samba and African music at large.
Tenores di Bitti Mialinu Pira, traditional singers from
Sardinia renowned for their polyphonic songs, performing
a type of music that has been deemed Masterpiece of Oral
and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO back in
2005.QOne-day ticket 30z, festival pass 90z. Available
at Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00
- 21:00) and festival box office (ul. Marszakowska 77/79,
open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun).
Cross Culture Festival
photo: Peter Rakossy
28
HOTELS
29
HOTELS
Mercure Warszawa Grand C- 4, ul. Krucza 28,
tel. (+48) 22 583 21 00, www.mercure.com. A
l andmark of a hotel, housed i n one of those 1950s
buil dings that simpl y oozes class and makes you wonder
why the rest of the ci ty coul dn t l ook the same. Hi gh
qual i ty rooms come wi th fantasti c showers that make
bri l l i ant use of the avai l abl e space. Add i n comfy beds,
a top central l ocati on, good staf f and a bri l l i ant buf fet
breakfast, and you have a wi nner. Q299 rooms (86
si ngl es, 207 doubl es, 6 apartments). POTHA
R6UFGKDW hhhh
Novotel Warszawa Centrum B-4, ul. Marszakowska
94/98, tel. (+48) 22 596 00 00, www.accorhotels.
com. A sleek silver skyscraper with grandstand views of
the Warsaw skyline one of the big pluses. Subject of a
thorough overhaul the Novotel Centrum gets points for both
location and size, meaning its not rare to find it overrun
with tour groups and conferences. Upstairs find revamped
rooms offering all the four star extras, including "Execu-
tive" rooms (with iPod docking stations) and even studio
and apartment options. Q733 rooms (50 singles, 661
doubles, 12 suites, 10 apartments). PTHARU
FLGKDW hhhh
Polonia Palace Hotel B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45,
tel. (+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com.
Ori ginall y buil t in 1913 the Pol onia Palace has seen i t
all, from a vi ctory banquet hosted by Eisenhower to the
Miss World girls back in 2006. The exterior has benefited
from a full faceli ft, and now dazzl es ami d i ts soot-clad
nei ghbours. Sl i dey doors open onto a grand marbl e
l obby, whi l e upstai rs ampl y por ti oned rooms reveal
modern fi ttings among made-to-look-ol d furni ture. New
32" and 40" LED TVs and hotel -wi de Wi -Fi extend the
modern upgrades. Pride of place goes to the apartment,
whose defining feature is a raised l ounge area wi th an
oval -shaped wi ndow. Q206 rooms (198 si ngl es, 198
doubles, 7 suites, 1 apartment). PTHAR6UF
GKDwW hhhh
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel A-3, ul. Grzybowska
24, tel. (+48) 22 321 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/
hotel-warsaw. An excellent hotel with top-drawer facilities
and rooms themed on Italian, Scandinavian and maritime
styles. All come with dataports, free wi-fi, three telephone
lines, safes and pay-TV, and theres also state-of-the-art
conference, dining and fi tness facili ti es. Q311 rooms
(284 singles, 284 doubles, 26 apartments, 1 Presidential
Apar tment). PTHAR6UFGKDCwW
hhhhh
Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel E- 3, Pl. Zawiszy
1, tel. (+48) 22 579 10 00, www.radissonblu.com/
sobieski -warsaw. The faade has a gari sh rai nbow-
col ored paint j ob, but fortunatel y this newest addi tion
to the Radi sson Bl u chai n has a much more subtl e
interior featuring a marbl e l obby, bi g rooms and fi tness
facili ti es. Rooms were recentl y refurbished and are now
sparklingl y modern. And we applaud any changes that
mean this hotel isn t going to charge guests for Internet
use anymore. Q435 rooms (60 singl es, 328 doubl es,
40 apartments, 1 Presi dential Sui te). PTHAR
6UFGKDwW hhhh
Rialto F-4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 00, www.
rialto.pl. Relive the days of Lempicka and Lindbergh inside
Polands original boutique hotel, a stunning venue decorated
exclusively in art deco style. Period furnishings have been
plucked from the auction houses and antique stores of Eu-
rope, and all the individually designed rooms come with Italian
linen, DVD players and a host of luxurious extras. If its avail-
able then book into lucky number 13, a colonial pearl which
Hercule Poirot would have loved. He would have thought highly
of the excellent in-house restaurant, too, which has a special
menu that offers the cuisine of pre-war Warsaw for added
authenticity. Q44 rooms (6 singles, 27 doubles, 11 apart-
ments). PTHAR6UFGKDW hhhhh
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel C-4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48)
22 450 61 00, www.sheraton.pl/en. Its all a bit Dynasty
in the Warsaw Sheraton, with lots of marble and gold plate
extras, as well as a selection of some of Warsaws best
eateries on the ground floor. Rooms are of generous size,
though to really feel like king consider upgrading to execu-
tive, where perks include access to a great lounge featuring
complimentary snacks and beverages. Q350 rooms (326
singles, 326 doubles, 18 suites, 5 apartments, 1 Presidential
Suite). PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhhh
The Westin Warsaw Hotel A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II
21, tel. (+48) 22 450 80 00, www.westin.pl/en. A
top bracket sanctuary situated amid the skyscrapers of
Warsaws business district. The lobby buzzes at all hours
and a glass lift whisks guests to rooms decorated in warms
tones and ultra-modern fittings. Each comes replete with
dressing gowns and slippers, in-room movies and mini-bars
that will take a considerable effort to clear. Splash out on the
executive floor for access to a top floor lounge that features
gourmet finger snacks and champagne on ice. Q361 rooms
(345 singles, 345 doubles, 15 suites, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTHAR6UFGKDW hhhhh
Upmarket
Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre E-3,
ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, www.
warsaw.hilton.com. Although only open since 2007 the
Hilton already feels like an established big shot on Warsaws
four star circuit. And it cant be denied, theres a hefty dose
of wow factor to swallow - from a breathtaking glass lobby
to the best (and biggest) conference facilities in the city. But
its not just about business. The hotel touts a gorgeous 25
metre pool, while the top floor executive lounge provides
diversions by way of DVDs, snacks, computer games and
private check in. As for the rooms, theyre just what youd
expect from a brand like Hilton. Accommodation comes
with a stylish modern look, walk-in showers and flat screen
televisions. Particularly impressive are the corner suites,
complete with floor-to-ceiling views of downtown Warsaw.
Q314 rooms (303 singles, 303 doubles, 10 apartments,
1 Presidential Suite). POTHAR6UFLGK
DCwW hhhh
Mercure Warszawa Centrum A-4, ul. Zota 48/54,
tel. (+48) 22 697 39 99, www.mercure.com. This
newly-christened Mercure Warszawa Centrum is in a prime
location hemmed in by the Palace of Culture and Zote Tarasy
shopping centre. Find immaculate facilities throughout, and
renovations occurring a floor at a time. The place might
look small and squat compared to its neighbours but this
hotel is deceptively large, with a quick tour revealing fitness
facilities, restaurant Winestone and a Balinese massage
parlour. Q338 rooms (54 singles, 274 doubles, 10 suites).
PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh
Dear Visitors, welcome to Warsaw.
Summer in the capital of Poland is one of
the most beautiful times of the year. August is still a part
of the annual summer vacation period, so many of the
local residents leave town to spend some time by one
of the countrys many beautiful lakes or at the Polish
seaside. This doesnt mean that you wont find anything
interesting to do in Warsaw though.
Its a great time to visit one
or more of Warsaws many
parks, the Old Town, Wilanw
Park and Palace or to take a
part in some cultural events.
Of course it would be a pity to
spend all this time just in the
city. Luckily, to be able to see
some lovel y Polish scenery,
you do not have to travel to
the Baltic Sea area or to the
Mazury lakes. Only around 40 km from the centre of
Warsaw we have Zegrze Lake, where you can sunbathe
or try some water sports.
This summer, until the end of August you can take a boat
trip to Serock near Zegrze. The trip begins every weekend
at 9:00 a.m. The trip to Serock takes about 3 hours and
youll be back in Warsaw at around 19:00. If you do not
want to take a full day trip an excellent alternative is to
take a trip along the Vistula river, which takes around 1.5
hours. There are 3 trips each Friday and 4 each Saturday
and Sunday. Both are good tours that provide an excellent
opportunity to see the Vistula River, the beautiful nature
around the river and to relax outdoors.
Summer is also a chance to enjoy a family picnic in the
fresh air. An opportunity for this occurs every Saturday
in the oliborz district. Here you can visit the breakfast
market until the middle of September. On the menu
in the market are both Polish and other international
cuisine. The market begins at 8:00 and continues until
15:00, so the timing nicely accommodates brunch as
well as breakfast.
The 21st of September is a date to remember for every
motor sport fan. On this day you can be part of the audi-
ence for the Top Gear Live Show at the National Stadium,
the event is part of VERVA Street Racing 2013. I am sure
that every motor fan has heard about Jeremy Clarkson
and his team from the BBC show Top Gear. It is a great
chance to see some great drivers, amazing cars and
hear comments with a typical British sense of humour.
The National Stadium will also be the scene of 2 other
sporting events. First, on the 6th of September, will be a
football match featuring Poland vs. Montenegro, which is
part of the qualification for the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Rio
de Janeiro. Then, on the 28th of September, the National
Stadium will be the finish line for the Warsaw marathon.
I am sure you will enjoy your stay in Warsaw and, thanks
to concierge teams from all hotels, you will always find
something interesting to do.
Sebastian Brodowski
Concierge & Guest Services Manager
INTERCONTINENTAL WARSAW
Ask your Concierge Mid-range
BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix ul. Omulewska 24
(Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 210 70 00, www.
bwfelix.pl. Located over on the east side of the river 6km
from the city centre, the Best Western falls comfortably
into the Polish business/conference class of hotels. Having
received a complete makeover and refurb, what you now
have is effectively a very comfortable, brand new hotel at
extremely competitive prices. Handy if youre planning on
spending your time in the fashionable adjacent Praga district.
Q227 rooms (96 singles, 120 doubles, 5 triples, 3 suites).
THAR6ULGKW hhh
Boutique Bed & Breakfast C-4, ul. Smolna 14/6,
tel. (+48) 22 829 48 01, www.bbwarsaw.com. Quiet
and cobbled, Smolna is not a typical city centre street, and
neither is this your typical set of apartments. Apartments
suit all budgets, though the Queen - with a large living space
- is well worth the extra outlay. Accommodation has been
designed to evoke a real atmosphere of home-away-from-
home and features lots of flowers, natural wood and personal
touches courtesy of Jarek, your host. Q21 rooms (3 singles,
16 doubles, 2 apartments). THAGW
Campanile E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 72
00, www.campanile.com.pl. Decorated with chequered
patterns and green and yellow colour schemes the Campa-
nile accommodation includes satellite TV and pristine bath-
rooms. High standards and a central location. Q194 rooms
(194 singles, 194 doubles). PTA6UGKW hh
Castle Inn B-2, ul. witojaska 2 (entrance from Pl.
Zamkowy), tel. (+48) 22 425 01 00, www.castleinn.pl.
When students grow up, grow rich and can no longer stand
hostels, they stay in places like this. A dream of a hotel at the
centre of Old Town you can expect big rooms, all with individual
decor - some classy, some kitsch, all good fun - and - wait for
it - velvet doors. Best of all though are the rooms which have
the massive (and we mean massive) bathrooms. We dare you
to find bigger bathrooms than those on offer here in any other
hotel in Warsaw. Much like their clientele the owners of this place
have also graduated up from hostels (they run the Oki-Doki). If
this is what becomes of hostels when they grow up, bring it on.
Q22 rooms (3 singles, 18 doubles, 1 triple). THA6GW
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre E-3, ul. Towarowa 2,
tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www.goldentulipwarsawcen-
tre.com. A very favourable price to quality trade-off here,
with plenty of room, heavenly beds and a warm welcome all
part of the deal. However, our favourite detail is the breakfast,
clearly one of the best in the city. What a spread! A hotel
with big ideas that is rightfully putting its sights on getting
a fourth star. Q144 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles).
PTHA6UFGKDW hhh
Ibis Stare Miasto A-1, ul. Muranowska 2, tel. (+48)
22 310 10 00, www.accorhotels.com. More of the same
from Ibis: international standards at competitive prices, with
refreshed rooms that have flat screen televisions across
the board. Best of all, its location ten minutes from the Old
Town means that your immediate choice is no longer limited
to spending suitcases of cash in the Bristol. Q333 rooms
(333 singles, 333 doubles). PTHA6UGKW hh
Ibis Warszawa Centrum D-2, Al. Solidarnoci 165,
tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00, www.accorhotels.com. Reliable
international standards, sensibly priced. Rooms come armed
with all expected mod-cons. Q189 rooms (189 singles, 189
doubles). PTHA6UGKW hh
30
HOTELS
31
HOTELS
MDM F- 4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339 16
00, www.hotelmdm.com.pl. Occupying a spot at the
top of Marszakowska most rooms in the MDM feature
grandstand views of Warsaws finest piece of socialist real-
ism: pl. Konstytucji. Accommodation comes with colorful
coloured carpets, 32" televisions and predictable three star
comfort. Q134 rooms (21 singles, 108 doubles, 5 suites).
THA6UGKW hhh
Metropol F-3, ul. Marszakowska 99a, tel. (+48) 22
325 31 00, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. For many years
this hotel acted as a reminder of what Warsaw Cold War ho-
tels used to look like, the difference to modern day standards
made all the starker by the re-construction and re-modelling
of neighbouring hotels including the Metropols sister hotel
Polonia Palace. Those days are now past and the hotel has
been scrubbed and rooms bought up to a decent standard.
For price/location this is now one of the citys better op-
tions for those on a budget. Q192 rooms (176 singles, 176
doubles, 16 suites). TA6UGKW hhh
Rezydencja Belweder Klonowa G-5, ul. Flory 2,
tel. (+48) 22 695 19 00, www.belweder-klonowa.
kprp.pl. Pretend that youre a vi si ti ng di pl omat by
staying at this hotel which is owned by the Chancellery
of the President of the Republic of Poland. Situated in
an elegant part of the city, just minutes away from the
famous azienki Park and the upmarket Al. Ujazdowskie,
the Bel weder Residence offers 35 comfortabl e rooms
and apartments, conference rooms, restaurant, swim-
ming pool, gym and sauna. During the summer months,
residents can dine on the terrace overlooking the beauti ful
secluded garden. Q35 rooms (12 singles, 17 doubles, 6
apartments). PHUFLGKDCw
Budget
Ibis Budget Warszawa Centrum H-3, ul. Zagrna 1,
tel. (+48) 22 745 36 60, www.accorhotels.com. A super
addition to Warsaws budget bracket, this hotel is in the midst
of a brand shift so you may find yourself checking into an Ibis
or, if the transition is complete, an Ibis hotel. Either way its a
winning formula here: bright, modern rooms inside a sparkling
white building in the quiet Powile district. The rooms come
with a simple design but your cash gets you all the facilities
the modern traveller requires: wireless net access, en-suite
bathrooms and cable television. Q176 rooms (176 singles,
176 doubles, 14 triples). PA6UGW h
Premiere Classe E- 3, ul. Towarowa 2 (entrance
from ul. Platynowa), tel. (+48) 22 624 08 00, www.
premiereclasse.com. One of the best budget options
in the city, and as such often fully booked. Basic, mod-
ern rooms come equipped with private bathrooms and
television, and the location is just a tram stop from the
train station. Q126 rooms (126 singles, 126 doubles).
TA6UGW h
Start Hotel Atos H-7, ul. Mangalia 1, tel. (+48) 22
207 70 00, www.hotelatos.pl. Another hotel where
spending the extra on a premium komfort room is wholly
encouraged. Doing so gains you digs in clean, renovated
rooms with functional furniture and wi fi and tv. Cutting
costs gets you something altogether more basic. Q231
rooms (231 singles, 106 doubles, 109 triples). THA
R6ULGKW hh
Apartments
P&O Apartments B-2, ul. Miodowa 12 lok.22, tel.
(+48) 508 13 59 95, www.pandoapartments.com.pl.
Good looking, modern furnished apartments in locations
across Warsaw - both centre and out. All sizes, and all
budgets, though with a distinct slant towards the higher end
of the market. Q50 rooms (50 apartments). A6GW
Residence St. Andrews Palace B- 4, ul. Chmielna
30, tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www.residencestan-
drews.pl. Fantasti c apartments i n a wonder ful, ful l y
renovated building in the most central location possible: ul.
Chmielna. Not a penny was spared in the decoration and
kitting out of these places, and the nice little touches that
are found all over - from the marble in the bathrooms to the
fully fitted kitchens with washing machines and dishwashers
- will convince you that this was money well spent. Free wi fi
included, and daily cleaning during the week. I f this were a
hotel, it would be in the Cream of the Crop section, these
apartments are that nice. Q24 rooms (24 apartments).
PTARGW
NEW
Roommate Apartments B/C-4, ul. Hoa 27A/9, tel.
(+48) 608 38 86 71, www.myroommate.pl. Dont be
misled by the name, you are not going to turn up to find the
roommate from hell sitting in front of the TV in his underpants
with a 6-pack and a half eaten pizza. Instead, you will find a
selection of centrally located, smartly designed short term
rental apartments. Each apartment is well kitted out with all
the mod cons to make your stay in Warsaw as comfortable
and relaxing as possible. The locations are on some of the
nicest streets in the centre and make navigating the city a
simple task. Staff are on hand to help out with any requests
you may have and they even offer a shuttle service from the
airport and the option of your own personal guide to show
you around town. Q4 rooms (4 apartments). TAUGW
Hostels
Hostel 36 ul. Bokserska 36 (Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22
207 90 00, www.hostel36.pl. Formerly Hostel Suewiec,
this is a hostel in name alone as it is actually more of a budget
hotel than anything else. Rooms are clean, bare and tidy, and
while the prices are kind the chances of meeting any fellow
backpackers are virtually non-existent. Q144 rooms (83
singles, 58 doubles). TAR6GW
Moon C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 468 00 66,
www.moonhostel.pl. If its all about location then Moon
Hostels new Warsaw location is one of the best, with a
prime building in the heart of bustling Foksal. The 26 rooms
range from one to eight beds, some with ensuite bathrooms,
and in-room flatscreen tvs. The combined kitchen/lounge
area is naturally sparklingly new, with cushy leather sofas
and a foosball table ready for action. Ideal for visitors who
want their hostel to feel like a hotel. Throw in breakfast for
an additional 10zl and your stay is complete. Q26 rooms (2
singles, 14 doubles, 5 triples, 3 quads, 1 Five-person room
, 1 Six-person room , 1 Seven-person room , 1 Eight-person
room). TA6GW
Oki Doki B-3, Pl. Dbrowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 828
01 22, www.okidoki.pl. A charismatic hostel stuffed with
abstract art, bits and pieces from thrift stores and wacky
colour schemes. Rooms (and the reception area) are cur-
rently getting a small refurb though they still dont have
numbers, just themes, and have been designed by a team
of local artists. Take a look at The Realm of Narnia, like
something straight out of C.S. Lewis, or The Communist
Dorm, filled with commie iconography and scenes from So-
cialist Paradise. Kitchen and internet also available for guests
(iffy in rooms, always in common spaces), as well as what
the owners promise is the cheapest beer in Warsaw. For
something more upmarket check into the decidely boutique
Castle Inn, a second pet venture from the same team behind
the Oki Doki. Q37 rooms (1 single, 14 doubles, 2 triples, 8
quads, 100 Dorm beds). TA6GW
Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw Airport ul.
wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 00,
www.courtyardwarsawairport.com. In many senses
this place, almost directly opposite the airline check-in
desks, is an extension of Warsaw Airport. People use the
superb lobby bar as a departure lounge, and for those
with an early morning start the big, comfortable rooms
here are as good a place as any to wait for a flight. Fear
not the noise of the planes: we slept like a baby (as did
our baby) even though our room had a direct view of
the runway. Q236 rooms (113 singles, 121 doubles, 2
apartments). PTHARUFGKW hhhh
Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul.
Poleczki 31 (Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 373 37 00,
www.express-warsawairport.com. Those wanting
easy access to the airport just short of sleeping on
the runway will find the brand new Holiday Inn Express
to fit the bill perfectly. Just three minutes away and ac-
cessible via a convenient hotel shuttle, the Holiday Inn
promises amenities that are miss-your-flight worthy:
wi fi and flatscreens in every room, a complimentary
breakfast buffet and a business corner for last-minute
work needs. Q124 rooms (124 singles, 124 doubles).
PTHAUGW hhh
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33
RESTAURANTS
32
RESTAURANTS
African
NEW
Caf Baobab H-3, ul. Francuska 31, tel. (+48) 22 617
40 57, www.cafebaobab.pl. A million miles away from its
previous incarnation as Sax - the legendary down at heel
haunt of poet Agnieszka Osiecka, this venue is now a Sen-
egalese bar and restaurant. Run by former basketballer and
champion cocktail mixer, Aziz, its a multi-cultural wonderland
where youre sure to find someone who speaks your language.
The bar is decorated in rich woody colours, some nice large
scale photos from Senegal and piles of books about faraway
places. On Thursdays a local French chap hosts board game
nights, and if youre really lucky youll be here for one of their
splendid and impromptu outdoor African music concerts.
The Senegalese menu isnt half as scary as food cowards
may think, with all the meat and fish dishes well worth trying.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (28z). TA6GBSW
American
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Is there
anything more American than sinking your teeth into a 10oz
burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while staring at the
jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experi-
enced? The Hard Rock Cafe has based a business around the
concept of unrivalled burgers and impressive memorabilia,
and Warsaws chapter is no different. The two-story venue
features a wall made of 675 guitars and menu items like hefty
nachos and barbecue ribs. The dark basement bar churns
out heaping drinks that look like they require two straws.
Even the bathrooms are painfully cool, labelled Guns for
him and Roses for her. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (33-115z).
PTA6UGBSW
WITH ANY BREAKFAST
GET YOUR AMERICAN COFFEE
FOR FREE!
DRINK ALL YOU WANT!
START YOUR DAY WITH OUR
ROCKIN BREAKFASTS!*
Warsaws come a long
way and fast, and no-
where is the urban vi-
brancy more apparent
than i n the ci tys pro-
gressive culinary scene.
The i mmedi ate post-
communist obsession
wi th I tal i an has si nce
given way to fusion, sushi and - most recently - burgers,
and dining out is now a truly international experience.
Disappointments do still exist, however, with gruff, ditzy
or plainly incompetent service being a common lament.
Youd think the opening hours we list are self-explanatory.
Not so. Venues will more often than not close their doors
if business is slow. Other restobars often employ dif-
ferent sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we
list in such cases are for the kitchen, and the prices we
list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and
most expensive main course on the menu. In regards to
tipping, either round the bill up or leave 10% - but only if
you think the service warrants it. Here is a selection of
recommendations depending what you are looking for.
Business:
Restauracja Rana is an experienced local offering
that will impress the client and give you room to talk shop,
while Butchery and Wine recently won accolades as
the citys top restaurant. For a more casual atmosphere
weve spotted many briefcases and ties at Socjals
communal table.
Cheap:
The many Bar Mleczny canteens (Milk Bars) are a
legacy to the communist past, and while theyre cheap
you may wish to skip them unless you really are bone
broke and starving.
Couples:
Solec 44 has a solid menu and a massive array of
board games at which you can challenge (and beat) your
sweetheart while Halka has elegant date night interiors
and a menu to match.
Kids:
Hard Rock Cafe is always going to be a favourite and
they do know how to make your special ones feel special.
Chopskie Jado is a great family experience as well,
where kids eat off wooden slabs and you sit family-style
to dine on traditional Polish cuisine like lard spread and
chunks of meat.
Lads:
The Warsaw Tortilla Factory is the place to prove
your worth to the team by guzzling lager from private
taps while noshing on the citys best burritos. If you like
big helpings of pierogis consider Zapiecek, which can
be found on almost every street in Warsaw, while steak
lovers should head directly to 99 Restaurant and Bar.
Polski:
Eat Commie style in Obera Pod Czerwonym Wiepr-
zem, or for a more upscale take on Polish cuisine try
Dom Polski. Celebrity chef Magda Gessler makes Polish
goulash stylish at Masz Gulasz.
Eating at a Glance
Sioux B-4, ul. Chmielna 35, tel. (+48) 22 827 82 55,
www.sioux.com.pl. Sioux interprets the American Wild West
as only a chain of themed restaurants can: cheesely. Grab a
Conestoga wagon booth or a table under a framed photo of
Chief Sitting Bull and peruse a menu that tries to recreate life
around the campfire with unimpressive ribs, cold fries and a
random selection of Mexican offerings like fajitas and burritos.
Youll find a Sioux serving up cheap, completely average food in
almost every city of size in Poland, and unless youre a diehard
wagon wheel fanatic, trot your spurs on to a more interesting
(and flavourful) option. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 23:00. (25-75z). PTAUGBSW
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.
someplace-else.pl. SPE has been serving up some of the
best burgers in Warsaw for as long as we can remember, and
a recent visit shows little has changed: the Orient Express
burger is a marriage of lamb and roast beef doused in hal-
lumi cheese and Mediterranean veggies - epic and creative.
The large, open bar is capable of mixing up anything you
can think of, including a spicy bloody Mary to accompany
the Sheratons brunch, which is served here on Sunday.
Recommended particularly i f you are sleeping upstairs
so you wont have far to haul your happily fed self. QOpen
12:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30.
(38-110z). PTAUEGBSW
Balkan
Banja Luka B-3, ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. (+48) 22 828 10
60, www.banjaluka.pl. Reliable Banja Luka has moved!
Youll now find them much closer to the city center, which is
where you should head for monstrous portions of the best
Balkan food in town. The more central spot means the citys
officebots have discovered a great new lunch special, with
19,90z filling you with a new daily menu that sounds like
what a small wrestling team might take down: large lumps
of roast pork, pancakes with spinach, spicy fish soup and
even baklava for dessert. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00
- 22:00. (30-50z). PTAEGBSW
Brazilian
Browar de Brasil B- 4, ul. Marszakowska 76/80,
tel. (+48) 534 60 09 90, www.browardebrasil.pl. The
large copper tanks are your first clue that this new two-story
churrascaria is serious about brewing their own high-quality
beer. The attire worn by the waitresses might throw you off
for a minute - yes, they are dressed in tacky, revealing faux
football uniforms - but the four in-house beers are worthy,
and carnivores will swoon at the ten different types of meat
that arrive on a giant sword in all-you-can-eat style for
69z. Sure to be as popular as the flagship d location.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (16-70z).
PTAEGBSW
British
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.
pl. Legends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking
(and eating) mans football watching venue of choice. Basi-
cally has two things going for it: good British grub (a steak and
kidney to relish is served), British ales and Sky Sports (if the
waitress can work out which channel is showing what). What
it needs now are a few pints spilt on the floor and a few rowdy
evenings to knock off the new look. Find it a stones throw
south of the Marriott hotel. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (25-50z). PTABXSW
34
RESTAURANTS
35
RESTAURANTS
Charlottes pain au chocolate you expect to hear La Seine
bubbling past, but instead its your waitress bringing giant
jars of jams, honey and chocolate spread to dig into - this
doesnt look like typical French portion control. This new
French bakery/bistro is already a popular breakfast spot,
and a communal table in the center of the restaurant is
a genius solution for the many solo diners ducking in for
a pastry and a latte. The service at this start-up is still
spotty, but considering the crowds its also understand-
able. Charlotte is the ideal place to sip a Perrier and nibble
a tart without feeling like le snob. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00,
Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
(8-18z). TA6GBSW
NEW
Le Connaisseur C- 3, ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. (+48)
789 14 27 68, www.leconnaisseur.pl. Tel eport your-
sel f back to the Paris of the 1920s by visiting this opulent
art deco styl ed establishment. The interior is furnished
wi th ori ginal period pieces and desi gn el ements inspired
by the era. The menu is an absolute cracker - contem-
porary takes on classi c French cuisine - and the arty
presentation of the dishes almost makes you feel guil ty
for upsetting the composi tion by di ving in wi th your cut-
l ery! Le Connaisseur isn t afrai d to go out on a limb wi th
contrasting flavours; for exampl e the foi e gras starter is
served wi th i ce wine j ell y, gingerbread and a chocolate
truf fl e. The French cocktail menu includes drinks made
to ori ginal 1920s recipes, like the Cocktail faon Chanel
- the favoured tippl e of Coco hersel f. Saturday afternoon
jazz/classi cal gi gs and the encouraging of customers to
discuss the finer things in li fe make this a l ovel y place
to spend some time. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (40-80z).
PTA6GBSW
Fusion
Fusion A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21 (The Westin Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion.
pl. Beauti full y presented food in the modern, i f regularl y
qui et, interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very
good, i f a tad pri cey compared to ci ty restaurants, but
you get what you pay for, wi th everything being of a su-
perior quali ty. Regular seasonal specials based around
parti cular ingredi ents keep happy l ocal foodi es coming
back for more. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30,
Sat, Sun 07: 00 - 10: 30, 12: 30 - 22: 30. (45-150z).
PTAUGSW
Galician
C.K. Obera B- 4, ul. Chmielna 28, tel. (+48) 22
828 45 85, www.ckoberza.pl. Budget pri ced di n-
ners, pi nts of l ager and a bubbl y atmosphere come
presented i nsi de a basi c room decked out i n dark
woods. The menu i s al l pork chops, potato pancakes
and pl ates of ani mal s, and happi l y consumed by
crowds who recogni se a seri ous bargai n. Al so at (B-2)
ul . Wi erzbowa 9/11. QOpen 11: 00 - 24: 00, Wed, Thu,
Fri , Sat 11: 00 - 01: 00, Sun 12: 00 - 24: 00. (27- 62z).
A6UBXS
Indian
Buddha Indian Restaurant C- 3, ul. Nowy wiat
23, tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl.
Buddha reall y impressed when they opened up a coupl e
of years back gi ving us very good Indian food ri ght in the
heart of the ci ty. The decor is lush and extravagant, and
the curri es foll ow a similar sui t wi th a spi cy slap that
puts them at the top of our list. The rest of the menu
is monstrous, but helpfull y benchmarked wi th symbols
for hot, vegetarian and even ki d-fri endl y dishes. QOpen
11: 00 - 23: 00, Fri , Sat 11: 00 - 24: 00. (30-130z).
PTAUVGBSW
Namaste India C- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. (+48)
22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. What began as
a modest Indian-owned grocery store soon expanded into
a full -on ethni c restaurant and proved so popular that
a second l ocation was needed to meet the demand for
deli cious Indian cuisine. For of fi ce workers around town,
this - the ori ginal Namaste - remains the best, and well
agree that i t simpl y doesn t get much better for Indian
food i n the capi tal. Better still, the pri ces are set so
l ow you can t help but ask whats the catch. There isn t
one; weve tri ed pretty much everything on the menu,
and have yet to find a weak link. Consi der ringing ahead
for takeaway because wai ti ng ti mes can be tor ture.
Also at ul. Pi wna 12/14 (B-2). QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (30-40z).
PTUGBSW
Namaste India Clay Oven B-2, ul. Piwna 12/14,
tel. (+48) 22 635 77 66, www.namasteindia.pl.
When Namaste fi rst opened i t proved such a success
story a new venue was needed to cope wi th the over-
fl ow custom. And i f you thought the previ ous ef for t
was pretty good, then bow down and worshi p at what
i s up there wi th the great I ndi an restaurants of Central
Eastern Europe. Theres no such thi ng as a bad meal
here, but to real l y hi t the hi gh notes order the butter
chi cken - i ncomparabl e to any other curry i n town. Al so
at ul. Nowogrodzka 15 (C-4). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(22-40z). PTAGS
Chinese
Cesarski Paac B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. (+48)
22 827 97 07, www.cesarski - palac.com.pl. The
lunch deal is one of the best value in the ci ty, so expect
a bi t of a free-for-all once the cl ock hi ts one. The food
is a mi x of Chinese flavours, wi th more Szechuan than
Bei j i ng, though i ts thi s l ack of focus that eventual l y
hamstrings this l ocal e: theres j ust too much on of fer. I f
they stuck to what they knew best i t could easil y become
one of the better Asi an eateri es i n Warsaw. QOpen
12: 00 - 23: 00, Sat, Sun 12: 30 - 22: 00. (29-136z).
PTA6UGBSW
Czech
U Szwejka F- 4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22
339 17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. This aging establish-
ment, equipped with Czech street signs and images of
simpleton Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw classic, and while
it looks brash and basic the food is fine and the portions
are scary. The steak is inconsistent, so best sti ck to
ordering standards like sausages and schnitzel, and visit
in summer when a terrace opens onto Pl. Konstytucji.
Patience is a good tactic to use with the staff, but theres
certainly no criticism of the Pilsner on draught - cut the
dismal waiting times by ordering in steins. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (18-40z).
PTAEBXSW
French
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino F- 4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18
(entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 662 20 45
55, www.bistrocharlotte.com. Sinking your teeth into
ul. Ordynacka 13, 00-364 Warszawa
Tel : +48 789 142 763 | info@leconnaisseur.pl | www.leconnaisseur.pl
French culinary creativity
Art Deco atm
osphere
Paris in 20s
Receive a complimentary
French aperitif upon
presentation of this guide.
36
RESTAURANTS
37
RESTAURANTS
BrowArmia B- 3, ul. Krlewska 1, tel. (+48) 22
826 54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaws other mi -
crobrewery tends to mysteriousl y li ve in the shadow of
the more famous Bi erhall e, and though i t fails to share
the li vel y atmosphere of i ts ri val, BrowArmia is by no
means second best. The interior has a dark beer hall vibe
wi th all the requisi te pipes, dials and tanks on display,
as well as a good menu that trounces the competi tion
the sti cky wings pair per fectl y wi th a BrowArmia pils.
More i mportantl y the beer i s top standard and best
imbi bed on the seasonal terrace l ooking onto bustling
Krakowski e Przedmi eci e. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (27-
66z). PTAEBXSW
Concept C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 16/18,
tel. (+48) 22 492 74 09, www.likusrestauracje.pl/
pl/Restauracja_Concept. I ts hard to do j usti ce to
Concept restaurant, one of the most i mpressi ve di n-
i ng experi ences to be found i n Warsaw. Found i nsi de
a former pre-war bathhouse thi s pl ace i s accessed
down a gl oomy l ooking courtyard, flanked on each si de
by kebab stands and student di ves. Don t turn back.
Instead duck through the entrance to find yoursel f in a
whol e di f ferent worl d. Decorated wi th glazed fl oor til es,
shimmery fabri cs and a skyli ght this place l ooks every
inch a masterpi ece. Keeping up wi th the surrounds is
the food, wi th a newl y launched menu that includes a
near per fect steak. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Cl osed Sun.
(35-99z). PTAEBXSW
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Zbkowska 16, tel. (+48) 603 60
22 52, www.decoteriacafe.pl. A small restaurant with a
pleasant orange interior, DeCoteria is one of the few clutter-
free locations in Praga for a meal. Thanks to that role it has

Mon-Sat 11.00-22.00, Sun 12.00-22.00
info@namasteindia.pl | www.namasteindia.pl
AUTHENTIC IN
DIAN CUISINE IN WARSAW
ul. Nowogrodzka 15
+48 22 357 09 39
ul. Piwna 12/14 (Old Town)
+48 22 635 77 66
Same owner, same cooks, same place, but with

a new menu, new cocktail bar and a great new
summer garden for up to 50 people.
You all must come and try the fantastic food
and cocktails, all at special
summer prices - the cheapest in town.
ul. urawia 22, 00-515 Warsaw
Indiacurry@bojwani.pl, www.indiacurry.pl
Tel. (+ 48) 22 438 93 50, Mob. (+ 48) 501 400 386
Rain by India Curry C- 4, ul. urawia 22, tel. (+48)
22 438 93 50, www.indiacurry.pl. Neatl y tucked
back from the main drag on ul. urawia, Rain manages
to combine a comprehensive range of Indian dishes with
a short fusion and international based menu. This mixed
menu makes it the ideal place to dine for curry fiends
who are happy to have a few non-worshippers tagging
along in the group. The fusion suggestions include a few
dishes with hints of Indian flavours for those who simply
can t make up their mi nds; like the tandoori fish wi th
ginger straws and vegetables. The interior consists of
two seating areas separated by a nice bar space, which
is designed so that you can also just drop in for a wicked
pick-me-up from the well above-average cocktail list.
Q Open 12:00 - 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:30. (32-60z).
PTAUVGBSW
International
12 Stolikw F- 3, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 795
37 38 15. I f the i dea of a restaurant not having a menu
sounds pretenti ous, well, we thought the same thing.
Fortunatel y the concept turns out to be charming at 12
Stolikw, a small restaurant that writes the ever-changing
of ferings on a chalkboard facing diners. Wai tresses are
happy to i nterpret, and though the transi ent system
means you mi ght not get the del i ci ous tomato soup
wi th pesto or handmade ravioli that we di d, their quali ty
indicates you cant go wrong. The high ceilings and stacks
of wine crates are all that pass for dcor, but we coul dnt
take our eyes of f the chef tempering chocolate on the
centre island - call i t dinner and show. And were not the
onl y ones who think so: 12 Stolikw was named one of
the top fi ve restaurants in Warsaw in 2011 by Gazeta
Wyborcza newspaper. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Fri 10:00
-23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (18-70z).
PTA6UGBSW
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67
77 65, www.bierhalle.pl. Bierhall e have 2 locations
in the city of which this is the more central. Located on
the equivalent of Warsaws main street, youll find bench
seating, generous portions of good food and a tasty range
of in-house brewed beers. Match a stein of fresh pils with
something from their picture menu which features local
favourites like pierogi, pork knuckle and kaszanka (a kind
of black pudding) as well as dishes more often associated
with Polands beer drinking neighbours; German Wurst,
Austrian Schnitzel and Hungarian Goulash. Simple, ac-
cessible and with regular promotions make this a popular
spot. Also at Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen
12:00 - 22:45, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:45, Sun 12:00 - 21:45.
(18-50z). PTAGBSW
Bordo C-3, ul. Gaczyskiego 9, tel. (+48) 22 622 00
68, www.bordo.com.pl. Neatly tucked off Nowy wiat,
this highly likeable, popular pre-party gem just wants to
make you happy, and satisfaction is assured by a vast
menu that covers all the food groups from soup, salad and
sandwiches to pasta, pizza and grilled meats, shakes,
cakes and ice cream. The drinks list is just as thorough,
the breakfasts are a standout and prices are delightfully
sub-Varsovian across the board. A modern interior full
of comfortable, creme-coloured booths and a spacious
downstairs means theres plenty of room for every young
couple on a cheap date, and every gaggle of gals getting
ready to go out. I f you dont like Bordo, be advised: li fe is
harder when youre hard to please. Also at ul. Chmielna 34
(B-4). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (11-
39z). PTA6GBSW
a crowd that mixes young Praga hipsters with moms toting
strollers, all tucking into a menu that seems to offer dishes
from around the globe (Hungarian-style pancakes with stew,
for a start). We stuck to the Polish fare and found the potato
pancakes to be a winner. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (16-45z).
PTA6UGBSW
Five A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5, tel. (+48) 793 53 53 53,
www.fiverestaurant.eu. Guaranteed a steady flow of
customers by its designer looks and top location amongst
Warsaws biggest and best hotels, this place doesnt have
to be all that good, but is. In fact, recent visits have made
us love the place all over again, as the menu of simple Ital-
ian classics always delivers a decent meal at a fair price.
Look out for the changing specials, which on our last trip
included some terri fic grilled salmon with leek sauce. A
19zl lunch special from 11:00-16:00 gets you soup and
a main, and note to parents with tots: theres a childrens
playground availabl e for your wee ones every Sunday.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (22-49z).
PTA6UVGBSW
Grand Kredens A- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel.
(+48) 22 629 80 08, www.kredens.com.pl. Few
pl aces i n Warsaw match thi s for a fi ne, dare we say
splendid dining experience. The decor is tremendously,
enjoyably eclectic, and the menu - with a terri fic variety
of fish (amongst much else) to savour - well up to the
challenge of its rivals. It is not by any means the cheapest
place in town, but we would be fairly certain that however
big the bill, you will leave feeling well satisfied. This has
been around Warsaw longer than we have and its a treat.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (30-100z).
PTA6UIEGBSW
38
RESTAURANTS
best value in Old Town, with beer usually playing a big part
in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
(20-50z). PTAUEGBSW
Restauracja Concept 13 C-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48)
22 310 73 73, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Tucked inside
the high-end VITKAC shopping center, Restauracja Concept
13 lives up to its luxurious location with soaring fifth floor
views of the city and stylish design. The modern urban eatery
is open all day, including for breakfast, but offers its best
deals at lunch (11:00-16:00 Mon-Fri) where 50z gets you
multiple courses of their creative cuisine - trust us, its a deal.
If the weather allows then theres no place better than the
terrace, even if its just for a cocktail. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00,
Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (82-97z). PTAUBXSW
Restauracja Kultura B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
21/23, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www.restauracjakul-
tura.pl. On the ground floor of the Kino Kultura, and therefore
commanding one of the greatest locations on all Krakowskie,
the Kultura makes good use of the space by serving food that
lives up to its surroundings. Smart waitresses wearing freshly
starched aprons will bring a cold bowl of chodnik soup with
crayfish to your table before presenting you with a bill that
should, given quality, be far higher. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (35-62z). PTAGBSW
Restauracja Wilanw ul. S. K. Potockiego 27 (Wilanw),
tel. (+48) 22 842 18 52, www.restauracjawilanow.com.
An extraordinary excursion back to the days of a planned Polish
economy, this much talked about classy restaurant serves
a range of international and Polish food in a blast to the past
atmosphere. Despite what they say about the place theres no
ignoring the service. Breathtakingly snobby, expect to be treated
like something the cat dragged in if youre not dressed for the
opera. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (32-58z). PTA6GBS
Restaurant Jasna 24 B-3, ul. Jasna 24, tel. (+48) 22
447 24 41, www.jasna24.pl. The great thing about Jasna
24 is the fact that the chef has managed to come up with an
excellent, unique and forward-thinking menu. Marvel at dishes
like prawns fried in white wine, herbs and green grapefruit or
zander (commonly referred to as pike perch, but zander is the
proper English name) marinated in caramelised onion, white
wine and aromatic green pepper. Add to this the fact that they
have a rather good wine list and its highly unlikely that youll
be disappointed. Enjoy these exotic dishes in a well-designed,
modern setting with some cool mood-lighting adding to the
atmosphere. The charming and professional staff are well
versed in the expression attention to detail. On Wednesdays
from 20:00 youll find concerts and live music to go with your
food, and Fridays a DJ rolls in at 21:00. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. From September open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00
- 18:00. (25-69z). PTA6EGBS
Restro A-4, ul. Paska 57, tel. (+48) 22 620 22 66,
www.restro.pl. As you may have noticed some central
Warsaw streets have a habit of ending abruptly before re-
appearing again sometimes hundreds of metres away on
the other side of a busy road. Bear this in mind when you
hunt down Restro, a cafe restaurant that is a favoured lunch
spot of ours, which can be found to the south-east of the UN
roundabout (Rondo ONZ). The changing menu features offers
a choice of excellently priced set menus and dishes with a
distinct Mediterranean feel. The tagliatelle with scampi and
coriander is a steal at around 6 euros although we often have
a dilemma between that and one of the salads, the beef and
spinach being another winner. Recommended but mind the
opening hours. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (21-39z). PTAVGBS
GR Bistro & Restaurant B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8 (entrance
from ul. Grskiego), tel. (+48) 22 828 42 85, www.
grbistro.pl. A two-level bistro set on a quiet street just away
from the hustle and bustle in the centre of the city. A small
downstairs area connects to an intimate upstairs with black
and white prints on walls tastefully decorated with striped
wallpaper set above wooden picture rails. The menu is con-
cise featuring an international selection of well-prepared and
presented dishes including soups, salads, pastas and meat
dishes. Good as a lunch stop, where the daily specials are
well-worth the few euro prices, it is a particularly recommend-
able as a place for an intimate meal away from the crowds of
Chmielna with the food matched by a good selection of wines
and cocktails. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. (25-54z). TA6GBSW
Kuchnia Funkcjonalna ul. Jakubowska 16 lok.7 (Praga
Poudnie, entrance from ul. Estoska), tel. (+48) 512 89
38 98. Seconds away from the hectic Washington roundabout,
its difficult to believe how tranquil and relaxed this place is. A
prime example of Functionalism designed in 1928 by Czesaw
Przybylski for the sculptor Mieczysaw Lubelski, this smallish
restaurant is an unusually harmonious blend of rustic, modern
and industrial elements. The short menu offers a season-
ally changing selection of European-style dishes mixed with a
healthy dose of Polish ingenuity and locally sourced produce.
The staff are some of the best we have come across in Warsaw
- helpful and extremely knowledgeable about all aspects of the
menu. Funkcjonalnas trump card is the enclosed garden area,
perfect on a warm summer evening. Also, check out the BWA
and Asymetria art galleries which are based in the building.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (25-60z). PTA6EGBSW
Meat Love B-4, ul. Hoa 62, tel. (+48) 500 14 92 10,
www.meatlove.pl. The audacious name would suggest a
barbarian bone-sucking, finger-licking orgy of dripping meat juice
(to us, anyway), but the reality is a woodsy, intimate, eco-minded
sandwich shop that effectively reclaims hipsterdom from the
vegans. Meat Loves specialty is fresh rolls and baguettes
stuffed with tender, organic, hormone-free carnivorous delica-
cies, and theres a good selection of teas, coffee and other
drinks to accompany them. One also cant help but admire the
simple genius of their Belgian waffle topped with pulled pork
and maple syrup. The staff have all the hallmarks a hip urbanite
should: tattoos and studs, scraggly beards and suave haircuts,
but the atmosphere is family-friendly and completely sincere. A
great addition to the neighbourhood, in fact its places like this
that create the illusion pocket neighbourhoods even exist in
the capital. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (13-20z). TA6GBSW
Pikna Bistro G-4, ul. Pikna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627
41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Pikna Bistro went through a
major overhaul and reopened this classier spot in the fall.
The look is sleek, modern and simple now, but what hasnt
changed is their very reliable mix of pastas, salads, grilled
meat and fish dishes, whose preparation and presentation
will delight hungry diners. A recommended venue if you like
your meal served to the backdrop of live jazz. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (27-60z).
PTAUEGBSW
Podwale - Kompania Piwna B-1, ul. Podwale 25,
tel. (+48) 22 635 63 14, www.podwale25.pl. Enter
via a mock Bavarian courtyard to discover a huge hall filled
with the sound of beery antics and oompah music. The word
here is size, with Warsaws biggest portions coming within
a whisker of sending tables keeling. This is basically meat,
cabbage and potatoes served on huge wooden boards by
waitresses obviously less fragile than they look. Certainly the
40
RESTAURANTS
41
RESTAURANTS
SAM Restaurant & Bakery C-2, ul. Lipowa 7a, tel.
(+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Fresh baked bread,
plentiful salads, a shop with organic herbs and superfoods
like acai...its safe to say that SAM has arrived in Warsaw with
some strong credentials, and after our visit we can declare
it the Charlotte of the student set. Youll find the same lacka-
daisical service and hipster clientele as the popular Pl. Zba-
wiciela hotspot, and if you can overlook these flaws youll be
delighted with healthy dishes that ensure youll forever be able
to squeeze into those skinny jeans. QOpen 08:30 - 22:30,
Sat, Sun 09:30 - 22:30. (15-35z). TA6UGSW
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 60a, tel.
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. If location
is everything then Skwer is the place to be. Commanding a
prime spot on Krakowskie Przedmiecie a stones throw from
the presidential place it looks like an architects show-home
yet manages to create a decent atmosphere thanks to the
students who flock here for coffee after lectures. By night
the crowd gets trendier as local arty-types turn up to be seen
eating the well-priced food through the glass walls. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00. (18-45z). PTAUEGBSW
Socjal C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 787 18 10 51. Socjal
comes with excellent pedigree - its the creation of the folks behind
12 Stolikw, which was named one of the top 5 restaurants in
the city last year. Socjal is another win for this crew, boasting a
rotating menu of Italian entrees and salads (prosciutto and melon
for the win) that diners order via the restaurants chalkboard. The
communal tables force diners to be "socjal" with their neighbours,
an asset when you see a delicious plate and want to casually ask,
Whats that? QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. (30-68z). PTA6EGBSW
Sowa & Przyjaciele G-5, ul. Gagarina 2 (entrance from
ul. Czerniakowska), tel. (+48) 22 840 70 71, www.so-
waiprzyjaciele.pl. The pet project of well-known Polish master
chef Robert Sowa, this outstanding restaurant raises the bar
not only with its extensive range of tantalising dishes that sound
so good youll want to eat the menu, but also with the level of
hospitality. The ostensibly casual, modern interior is elevated to
elite by elegant table settings and excellent service, and includes
not one, but two VIP rooms, plus a plush cigar room thats also
stocked with Scottish single-malt whiskies. To give you a sense
of the calibre of the cuisine here, our "fillet of wild gilthead on
mashed green peas with butter-herb sauce and caramelized
young carrot " was worthy of an award and set us back 69zl.
So delicious its almost embarrassing to eat in public, we worry
what might happen when we try the venison. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (40-110z). PTAUGBSW
Winiarnia Restauracja Superiore F-4, ul. Pikna 28/34,
tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59, www.superiorewinebar.pl. Yet an-
other business venture which has decided to make the move from
the increasingly sad looking Miasteczko Wilanw posh estate and
into the centre of the city. Its new home finds itself a few doors down
from Krystyna Jandas (just nod and pretend you know that shes
a very famous Polish actress) Teatr Polonia, making it an excellent
choice for a few pre-performance aperitifs and a bite to eat. The
interior is slick rustic with the shelves of wine bottles making up
much of the dcor. Italian wines take priority here, but youll also
find a good selection of German and Austrian wines. The heavenly
cooking smell upon entering the wine bar drags you, trance-like,
towards the menu. Entre nous, the lamb shank with veggie fries is
already being talked about in hushed, reverent tones by those in
the know. Fridays see an ever-changing seafood menu, with fresh
catches brought in each week for Fridays specials - - everything
from mussels and oysters to fish and octopus! QOpen 12:00 -
22:00. (22-50z). PAVGBSW
Winosfera A-3, ul. Chodna 31, tel. (+48) 22 526
25 00. Coming across as a shopping mall for wine lovers,
even including a cinema, its a little difficult to pinpoint what
Winosfera actually is. Best considered a number of ventures
under one vast roof, all linked by the humble grape. Wine and
food go hand in hand, so the restaurant is a key element. The
raw brickwork and plaster grey interior has all the modern
charm of a re-fitted factory space and features the must
have current trend of the open kitchen. Head chef, Jakub
Adamczyk, previously worked at Londons The Square
(two Michelin stars) and the legendary Amber Room in
Warsaw. Expect culinary magic from the short and perfectly
constructed menu. The clean and perfect presentation of
dishes, such as roast rump of lamb with spring vegetables
and lamb consom, are rapidly turning the restaurant into
one of Warsaws top eateries. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat
15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (49-94z). PAUGBSW
urawina Rest & Wine B-4, ul. urawia 32/34, tel.
(+48) 22 521 06 66, www.zurawina.eu. Stylish and
spacious, this upscale resto wine bar looks like it should be
attached to a modern art museum and is about as fashion-
able as they come, while still maintaining a level of casual
comfort that wont put off those of us who dont spend half
our paychecks on our hair. Post-modernist paintings and
slick plastic seating are off-set by elegant place settings,
fresh flowers and gorgeously presented dishes. Choose from
a large selection of bruschetta, sexy drinks and desserts,
or dive into to-die-for dishes like rib-eye steak with apple
pastry, roasted potatoes and truffle butter (58z). The place
of choice for well-bred Varsovians on rich dates, business
meetings and mixers, in the evening its a great cocktail
and wine bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
(38-68z). PTAEGBSW
24 Gornoslqska, Str. - 00-484 warszawa
tel. +48 22 628 94 23
rezerwac[eQbrasserlewarszawska.pl
facebook.com/brasserlewarszawska
THL PLSTAUPANT ls lnsplred by the tradltlons of warsawand the modernlty of
Lurope. Our menu was created uslng a mlxture of slmpllclty and elegant taste. Our
stanare passlonate and guarantee to look after thelr guests wlth genulne hospltallty.
AUN|QUL 8AP wlth zlnc surfaces, orlglnal bar stools and an unbeatable atmosphere.
Open every day froml2 noon. we serve classlc cocktalls and champagne.
|n addltlon a perfectly deslgned PP|vATL POOMhas lts own orlglnal character.
|t's ldeal for groups of up to l2 people. |t can be [olned together wlth a dlnerent
roomto provlde space for 24 people.
ul. Jasna 24
Warsaw
(+48) 22 447 24 41
www.jasna24.pl
RESTAURANT
WITH
A PINCH
OF CULTURE
Italian
AiOLI Cantine B- 3, ul. witokrzyska 18, tel.
(+48) 22 657 21 26, www.aioli-cantine.com. Turning
communist-era commercial space into an appealing dining
destination is no easy illusion, but Aiolis urban canteen
aesthetic turns the trick with aplomb. Dominated by two
large circular bars - one around the kitchen hung with colan-
ders and racks of prosciutto, the other an actual drink bar
ringed with wine glasses - wooden furnishings dressed with
fresh herbs do much to dispel the brick and concrete, while
excellent service further elevates the atmosphere. The
short menu of salads, sandwiches, pasta and pizza, plus
some great breakfasts, makes the most of each option by
including tantalising ingredients (many of which you can take
home with you in jars) and the prices are very reasonable.
High quality all around, and therefore high marks from us.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (26-70z).
PTAUGBSW
Dziurka od Klucza C-3, ul. Radna 13, tel. (+48) 500
15 04 94, www.dziurkaodklucza.com.pl. Pixie-sized fam-
ily run restaurant located on a lovely pre-war street in Powile.
With everything handmade on the premises, Agnieszka and
Stanisaw Szpilowscy have successfully turned their passion
for pasta into a full-time business. The process is on full view
thanks to the open kitchen and nattering away with the cooks
while they work makes for a friendly and casual atmosphere.
Dziurka od Klucza means keyhole and much of the inte-
rior is made up of old doors and any opportunity to add a
key to the dcor isnt missed. Slightly mummsy violet and
lavender pastel colours help to make the place look bigger
than it actually is; in fact, its best to avoid if you suffer from
claustrophobia! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(19-45z). TA6UGBSW
42
RESTAURANTS
43
RESTAURANTS
NEW
Farina 20 B/C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 20, tel. (+48) 22 625
07 37. Taking its name from the finely milled and sieved flour
used for making pasta, Farina 20 offers a fairly standard but
nicely executed menu of Italian dishes. Presentation is clean
and colourful and the decor is nicely matched to the colours
on your plate. As well as the main room at the front and an
on-street terrace, the interior features a couple of intimate
little rooms, an open kitchen area and a peaceful secluded
garden space. The crostini starters come with a nice mix of
dips, including chicken livers and mushrooms with bacon. Se-
lecting your own preferred choice of pasta shape to go with the
eight usual suspect sauces is a nice touch and dont forget
to wash that down with an amazingly cheap glass of Italian
wine (5.50zl) or an astonishingly well priced bottle of prosecco
(42zl). QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (15-20z). TA6GBSW
NEW
Ristorante Repubblica Italiana H-3, ul. Francuska 40,
tel. (+48) 22 465 81 83, www.repubblicaitaliana.pl. Busy
Italian restaurant close to the National Stadium. Fresh and light
interior and a comprehensive menu featuring seafood, meats,
pastas, ravioli and salads. Tempting as everything is, its nigh
on impossible not to hit the pizza menu. Long regarded as one
of the best pizza places on this side of the river, the dough is
thin, not burnt to a crisp and the amounts of sauce and toppings
are just right. In the summer months Repubblica is blessed
with having an outdoor terrace surrounding three sides of the
restaurant and judging by its popularity it really is one of THE
places to be seen on Saska Kpas high street. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (25-65z).
Roma G-5, ul. Belwederska 17 / ul. Grottgera 2, tel. (+48)
22 841 01 33, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Attention to detail is
apparent at Roma, and every aspect of this secretive restaurant
hints at the neighbourhood locales youd find in the side alleys of
Italy. The interior is intimate, with silverware resting on cinnamon
sticks and piles of crispy breadsticks on every table. The menu
itself is encyclopaedic - - were talking three pages of pastas - -
enabling Roma to build a loyal fan base across the years. Were
fans of the Neapolitan soup, especially on rainy days, and if
you like strings of mozzarella dangling from your lips were fairly
certain you will too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,
Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (23-75z). PTAGBSW
Roma Bukieteria C-4, ul. Mokotowska 49a, tel. (+48)
22 621 03 11, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Pasta might be
the kind of thing youre used to gorging on, but not here. Roma
Bukieteria is all romantic atmosphere - - think candles, ter-
racotta and heavy wood tables - - so bring your best manners
and your latest date. The only place with a larger selection of
pasta has to be Rome itself, so take your time when sorting
through the massive menu. It may look like a small trattoria,
but the wine list suggests seasoned pros who will ensure a
charming date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,
Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (25-63z). PTAGBSW
Sepia Restaurant B-3, ul. Zota 7, tel. (+48) 22 827 68
10, www.sepia.zlota7.pl. The uninspiring Ikea-esque interior
is made up for by the fact that this Italian rooted joint is pretty
popular with shoppers from the nearby ul. Marszakowska and
gig-goers from Palladium next door. Pizzas and pastas galore,
including a rather odd nutella and banana pizza! Salads are
fresh, colourful and simply dressed. Our green stuff order
arrived at the table in a bowl made of pizza dough, which
was an original touch. Decent prices, a casual mix of diners/
drinkers and the chatty staff make it a fun place to rest your
bones for a while. Why is there a cactus on every table in an
Italian restaurant? Answers on a postcard to the editor please.
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (18-30z). PTA6UGBSW
Japanese
We could quite easily have a guide with only sushi restaurants
such has been the explosion of them in recent years. This
is a selection of the places we feel you ought to know about
but you are likely to find somewhere serving sushi in every
major mall these days.
77 Sushi A- 4, ul. Sienna 83, tel. (+48) 22 890 18
11, www.sushi77.com. The number 77 might well refer
to the number of sushi stops in town - in fact, it says a lot
about the city that its now easier to find sushi than it is a
cabbage. Youre guaranteed the real deal in Sushi 77, where
imaginative sets - try the California rolls, or even the hot
sushi - come chopped and sliced inside an attractive inte-
rior. Some outlets offer local delivery. Also at (F-4), ul. Polna
48A, Al. KEN 49 (Ursynw) and ul. Sawoja-Skadkowskiego
4 (Ursus, CH Skorosze). QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (29-49z).
PTAVGBSW
Besuto C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 27, tel. (+48) 22 828
00 20, www.besuto.pl. Besuto has moved from among
the prefab cabins and ramshackle pavilions inside Nowy
wiat 22 to a more visible location just down the street
at 27. The good news is the sushi, which has historically
been very decent hot and cold cuts prepared in front of
your eyes, is still reliably delicious, and the new storefront
is signi ficantly less likely to make your date question your
commitment - - the interior also gets marks for being bright
and modern. The bad news is that a better location means
higher prices than Besuto loyalists might be used to, but
its worth it to dig a little deeper. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (21-52z).
PTA6UVGBSW
Dont expect a gastronomic experience. Do expect a rare
insight into Eastern-Bloc Poland. Subsidised by the state,
this was food for the masses back in the day. With the fall
of communism many bar mleczny found themselves forced
out of business although a few of these canteens have
survived and, aside from offering an interesting diversion
for amateur anthropologists, they make it possible to eat
lots in return for a handful of coins. A Polish friend will know
which are the best and it is still interesting to see many
younger Poles still making regular visits to their favourite
one. Value is value wherever you are. Queue up at the
counter, peruse the choice of soups, meat and veg on offer
before placing your order, then watch in awe as matronly
ladies serve up everything from budget excellence to bowls
of slime. Weve seen both ends of the scale being reached
in the same place. One tip is to go earlier as the choice
and quality in some tends to fall as the day progresses. In
Warsaw keep an eye out for ones we list here.
Bar Mleczny Familijny C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 39,
tel. (+48) 22 826 45 79. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (3-13z). PUGS
Leniwa Gospodyni F-4, ul. Nowowiejska 12/18,
tel. (+48) 22 825 44 23, www.leniwagospodyni.pl.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
(10-20z). A6GS
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie
32, tel. (+48) 602 38 17 34, www.mleczarniajerozo-
limska.pl. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 47 (B-4). QOpen 09:00
- 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (6-12z). PUGBS
Milk Bars
Bistro Pikna
ul. Pikna 20
00-549 Warszawa
Tel. +48 22 627 41 51
piekna@jazzone.pl
www.jazzone.pl
The new place on the map of Warsaw
44
RESTAURANTS
45
RESTAURANTS
Ichiban Sushi C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 61, tel. (+48) 22
692 45 45, www.ichibansushi.pl. A fine city centre loca-
tion for this small sushi bar chain. Small is the key word here,
not helped by the addition of an upper level, which makes the
ground level area feel very low and claustrophobic. The walls
are totally covered in Japanese calligraphy, making you feel
like you are having your eyes tested by a rather thorough Tokyo
optician. Having said that, the menu is fairly extensive and the
miso soup garners high praise from those in the know. Due to
the ever-changing promotions and voucher schemes, Ichiban
is fantastically popular amongst the lunchtime eat something
quick and get back to the office crowd. Well priced and good
quality, but not a place to visit for a special dinner date. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (20-30z). PTA6UVGSW
Inaba B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. (+48) 22 622
59 55, www.inaba.pl. Heres a restaurant that was around
years before sushi became a fashion statement. Japanese
owned and run everything about Inaba strives for authentic-
ity, and this is one of only three places in town that can claim
a Japanese master chef calling the shots in the kitchen. A
pleasantly panelled interior creates a great atmosphere and
those who want more than just raw fish should take a look at
the grill dishes (be sure to try the salmon in teriyaki sauce).
QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. (25-58z). PTAVGSW
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery B-2, ul. Senatorska 17/19,
tel. (+48) 22 892 09 01, www.kiku.pl. Our advice when coming
to this typically Japan-in-a-packet decorated place is simple: forget
the sushi and just ask for the noodle menu. Never before in this
city have we eaten such fresh, spicy and downright tasty noodles
as we have at Kiku. At around 25z a bowl, a portion of noodles
here - and the seafood ones are best - represents terrific value.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-65z). PTAUVGBSW
Butchery & Wine B-4, ul. urawia 22, tel. (+48) 22
502 31 18, www.butcheryandwine.pl. A wonderful addi-
tion to the Warsaw dining scene winning points for originality
and simplicity. Try to put the image of mass slaughter over a
glass of Cabernet Sauvignon out of your mind and instead
visit to be met by a polite and well-drilled staff in pin-striped
butchers aprons inside a bright, modern, relaxed venue with
an open kitchen and enough wine on display to float a battle-
ship. The menu features a range of real steaks prepared
exactly to order and served on wooden boards with additional
sauce and side options. While it doesnt have to be steak (the
rest of menu looked mouth-watering) we cant imagine ever
daring to order anything but such was the enjoyment we took
from eating one. Recommended. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. (35-120z). PTAGW
Downtown Restaurant & Steakhouse A-4, ul.
Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel), tel. (+48) 22
328 87 45, www.downtown.com.pl. Considering these
are the same folks who bust out one of Warsaws most lavish
Sunday buffet each week, its no surprise that the Intercon-
tinentals Downtown restaurant holds nothing back on their
extravagant steak menu. The meaty choices are global, with
selections ranging from a cut of U.S. Longhorn from Iowa to a
tender hunk of Charolais beef from Frances Burgundy region.
Steaks can be paired with one of five sauces and seven sides,
and all you need to provide is the post-meal belt-loosening.
Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat
06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 12:30 -
16:00. (39-185z). PTAUEGW
Steak
When it comes to trends, Poland is often late to adopt
what other countries would now consider routine. So it
goes with the green, eco-friendly fad, which has reached
a fevered pitch in many major cities while Warsaw is
just beginning to embrace the idea. A group of new (and
already popular) venues are using their green status as
a major lure for customers in effort we expect will soon
be duplicated all over the city.
Caf 6/12 C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 622
53 33, www.612.pl. A prominent Warsaw caf, and one
popular with ad execs and scenesters. Making good use
of the high ceilings and socialist granite touches 6/12
features trance like music and subdued lighting, adding
a chilled out element to this long-living establishment.
However, this place is so much more than a caf, and
a thumb through the menu confirms so; the smoothies,
and theres millions to choose from, are hands down the
best in the city, while food choices include a range of
light gourmet bites youd imagine a Kate Moss character
stabbing her fork at. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. (20-65z). PTA6GSW
Green Patio B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. (+48)
22 628 21 04, www.greenpatio.pl. Feeling like all the
heavy Polish food is throwing your colon out of wack?
Green Patios wildly healthy tome of a menu has just the
thing for you. Dig into the zander wrapped in Westphalian
ham in currant sauce with boiled potatoes and corn salad
and you will feel instantly lightened after days of Polish
pork knuckle. All can be had in the quaint outdoor garden
or inside the impressive modern green interior - yep,
theres a tree growing inside. Sit beneath its shade
and enjoy a smoothie designed specifically to improve
your health. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(26-47z). PTAUGBSW
Green Peas Eco bar & coffee B-3, ul. Szpitalna
5, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 85, www.greenpeas.pl. If
the mossy paint color didnt tip you off, then the menu at
Green Peas Eco Bar and Coffee will: these folks are seri-
ously green. Everything is made from organic products
free from genetic modifications and chemicals, theres
no microwave on the premises, nothing is deep-fried and
dates are typically substituted for sugar to maintain their
quest for natural cooking. The menu was designed with the
environment in mind, which can sound boring on paper but
is delicious on the plate. Breakfast runs from 9-12, salads
are just 15zl and combine impressively fresh greens with
homemade dressing, and tofu is a word youll see often.
Even the cola is organic! QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. (14-22z). PTA6GSW
Klubokawiarnia Resort B-2, ul. Bielaska 1, tel.
(+48) 507 17 99 35. What looks like a normal caf at
first glance is anything but: old bathtubs have been turned
into couches, metal shopping carts now serve as seats,
and the bar is made from colourful stacks of old books
(its worth a visit to their Facebook page to see how they
created this unique bar). Even cardboard tubes have
been reinvented as chairs. While the dcor is decidedly
reused, the food and drinks are true originals. Cocktails
are made with fresh fruit, while stomachs can be lined with
whatver tasty concoctions the chef comes up with on a
regular basis. Fortunately, you can drink your bottled beer
or Argentine cola without any guilt since Resort makes
recycling a part of its mission. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. (10-12z). PA6BXSW
Healthy Eating
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47
RESTAURANTS
OTO!SUSHI F-3, ul. Nowy wiat 46, tel. (+48) 22 828
00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. One of our favorite sushi spots in
Warsaw. Sure, the location helps - who can argue with sitting
outside on swanky Nowy wiat? - but the helpful staff, great
tea options and fair prices put it squarely on top. A vegetarian
sushi set for two with 22 pieces ranging from kappa maki to
inari was tops, and the tempura is crispy rather the soggy we
often encounter. Ducking in for a lunch special will get you
heaps of fresh sushi along with miso soup, a salad and green
tea for a reasonable price. The small storefront means you
may have to fight for a seat, though. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-60z). PTAVGBSW
Soto Sushi C- 4, ul. Wilcza 26, tel. (+48) 22 629 94
85, www.sotosushi.pl. Warsaws Sushi glitterati have
always rated the original Soto Sushi on Al. KEN very highly
indeed, with many devotees regularly making the pilgrimage
to deepest, darkest Ursynw in order to visit their favourite
shrine. Well, now they dont need to bother, Soto have
opened another branch in the centre of the city! The crisp
white and minimal interior highlighted with pale green neon
wall lighting makes for a rather sterile look which made me
think of those ultra-violet fly zappers in butchers shops,
probably just my overactive imagination though. On the
other hand, the overall look of this sushi bar presents a
feeling of cleanliness and order which is reflected in the
beauti fully presented and carefully prepared sushi. The
salmon tartare gunkanmaki is yummy and a special mention
has to be made for the killer lemon pepper shrimp soup.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (32-56z).
PTAVGBSW
Tomo Sushi C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434
23 44, www.tomo.pl. Many claim you wont find better sushi
in Warsaw, and who are we to argue with the masses. Tomos
reputation is well earned, and as such dont be surprised to
be knocking elbows with sushi snobs showing off deft chop-
stick moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-95z). PTA6UGBSW
Lebanese
Le Cedre 84 A-3, Al. Solidarnoci 84, tel. (+48) 22
618 89 99, www.lecedre.pl. This popular Middle Eastern
staple hops across the river to a more accessible location
at the intersection of Jana Pawa and al. Solidarnoci and
thankfully brings all their reliably exotic flavours along too.
The interior is a magenta masterpiece and sets the scene
for you and your Scheherazade to explore the hefty menu.
Our recommendation: though were fans of the entrees like
shawarma your best bet is to mix and match hot and cold
starters, of which theres a dazzling array (stuffed grape
leaves and grilled halloumi top our list). QOpen 11:00 -
23:00. (32-59z). PTAUVGBSW
Mediterranean
Olive Garden A-3, ul. Pereca 2, tel. (+48) 22 624
01 91, www.restauracjaolivegarden.com. No need
to squirm, this isnt the bland Olive Garden chain youre
familiar with. Rather, this Olive Garden brings a decidedly
exotic brand of dishes to Warsaw in the form of Mediter-
ranean and Middle Eastern cuisine like homemade pita
bread and sweet kunafeh. For 12-20zl you can nab a lunch
special of an appetiser (we suggest the house-made hum-
mus), entree and dessert, all delivered in lightning speed
to the hungry be-suited crowds. The available summer
garden and sheesha pipes means Olive Garden is also
a promising post-work spot to unwind. Q Open 10:00 -
22:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (22-62z).
PTA6BXSW
Paros B-3, ul. Jasna 14/16a, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 67,
www.paros-restauracja.pl. Paros is the first and last place
in Warsaw where a waiter pulled out our chair and helped
us with our coat - - colour us charmed by the gallantry. That
attention carried over to the meal, with Greek staples like
hefty salads and bite-sized spanakopitas all imparting the
taste of the Mediterranean. The restaurant itself is so large
it can be half filled with customers and still seem spacious,
even with a packed white wraparound bar in the middle of
the room. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
(18-73z). PTAUEGBSW
NEW
Restauracja Oliva C-3, ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel.
(+48) 22 826 70 60, www.restauracjaoliva.pl. Take
a well-deserved break from the racket of Nowy wiat and
visit this unpretentious yet smart, light and airy restaurant
on the quiet ul. Ordynacka. The Mediterranean based menu
includes a healthy dose of homemade pasta dishes and
pizzas which are created to their own recipes. A stand-out
main dish is the succulent Guinea fowl piccata, game rarely
found on Warsaw menus. As the name suggests, the menu is
strongly influenced by the use of olive oil and the restaurant
also has a display of fine olive oils from a number of countries
for sale. Staff get full marks from us for neither pretending to
be your best mate, nor seeing you as their worst enemy - they
get it just right. The corner location also has a nice terrace
area for the warmer weather. Considering the ambience and
quality, prices are excellent. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (18-62z).
PAUGBSW
Middle Eastern
Sokotra C-4, ul. Wilcza 27, tel. (+48) 22 270 27 66,
www.sokotra.pl. The restaurant takes its name from the
isolated Yemeni island of Sokotra, a geographic location once
described as the most alien-looking place on earth. War-
saws Sokotra is neither isolated nor alien-looking, its situ-
ated in the city centre and its interior is a cool modernist take
on the simplest of Arabic design. Traditional Yemeni cuisine is
heavily influenced by Indian, reflected by the heavy, rich and
well-seasoned sauces with most of the dishes here - ideal for
some serious roti dipping. The lentil, lemon and green chilli
soup was stunning and the mutton, okra and tomato dish
was great. Theres standard table dining if youve just had
your hip replaced, or try the cushioned floor sitting area for
an even more authentic experience. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40z). PA6UGBSW
Mongolian
Cesarski Paac (Tsinghis Chan) B-2, ul. Senatorska
27, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.
pl. A basement grill where diners line up at food stations, pile
ingredients into a bowl before handing it over for a Mongolian
chef to cook - either in a wok or on a Hibachi grill. Theres
plenty to choose from, and in the best traditions of East Asian
cooking the cuts of meat are lean, mean with not a slither of
fat to be seen. Perhaps thats why its rare to spot a Polish
diner. Fifty five zloty gets you all you can eat, which sounds
a pretty fair deal to us. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:30 -
22:00, Sun 12:30 - 21:00. (29-55z). PTAGBSW
Become a fan of Warsaw In Your
Pocket on
Daily: 10:00 - 22:00
UL. ORDYNACKA 10/12
+48 (22) 826 70 60
www.restauracjaoliva.pl
facebook.com/restauracjaoliva
MEDITERRANEAN
DELIGHTS
IN THE HEART OF WARSAW
Enjoy our modern olive oil based menu,
in its various types and avours.
R E S T A U R A C J A
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in this
guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to our web-
site, warsaw.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every
venue on our website now has a function for comments,
be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.
Warsaw Uprising Museum
This museum is a must-see for anyone visiting the Polish
capital. It would be almost impossible to appreciate mod-
ern Warsaw, particularly the way it looks now, without
an understanding of what happened to the city in 1944.
Lance Grundy, Great Britain, July 2013
Etgar Kerets House
Claustrophobic? Certainly a lot less to keep clean!
Susi, Chicago, June 2013
Jesuit Church
Absolutely stunning in its simplicity and beauty. Visited
on a cold Friday night in April. It was almost full for mass
at 7:30 with people of every age and class. It was a
wonderfully warm and alive experience.
Marie, Florida, June 2013
Museum of the History of Polish Jews
The building is really impressive. The opening is planned
for early 2014, however it launches its educational and
cultural programmes on the 19th of April 2013 - the 70th
anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising.
Ewa, Warsaw, April 2013
Have Your Say
48
RESTAURANTS
49
RESTAURANTS
restaurant will be closed for a break from August 3-20,
after which the hours will be 12:00-14:30 and 18:00-24:00
daily; 12:00-14:30 and 18:00-02:30 Fri, Sat; Closed Sun.
Q(150-250z). PAUGBW
Belvedere G- 5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in
azienki Park (enter from ul. Parkowa), tel. (+48) 22
558 67 00, www.belvedere.com.pl. Nestl ed i nsi de
azienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic orangery filled with
foliage and a smattering of well-dressed tables both inside
and out. Although the landscaping is undergoing renovation,
Belvedere is still a dramatic venue with peacocks wandering
the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class service.
The food lives up to the atmosphere, and a menu overhaul
means youll have a variety of new dishes to choose from.
Few places in Warsaw are this classy or this expensive, and
dare we say women are right to assume a booking here
means something big is in order. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(54-108z). TAGBSW
Biaa G G-5, ul. Belwederska 18 a, tel. (+48) 22
840 50 60, www.bialages.pl. Biaa G unseated a
favourite restaurant, Restauracja Polska Tradycja, and used
their name as the subtitle (in large font). We were inclined
to dislike it as a result, but after a visit we couldnt help but
enjoy. The menu is definitely upper-crust - you can get a
coated goose for 490zl if the mood strikes - but the changing
seasonal menu is both more reasonable and creative. The
dumpling with goose and cranberry sauce was rich yet light,
a description that is also apt for the dacquoise meringue
with coffee crme. The over-decorated interior, complete
with Polish music from the 1930s, has to be overlooked for
enjoyment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (40-
60z). PTAGBSW
Polish
99 Restaurant & Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 23,
tel. (+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com.
A fixture on the Warsaw dining scene for over ten years
and still going strong in the local corporate lunch trade.
An updated design which is space age white and rather
dashing compliments a highly-recommended, global menu
which includes whats possibly the best steak in Warsaw.
Located within a stones throw of some of the citys finest
hotels, this is one of the most reliable places in town from
breakfast through to supper whether youre socialising,
doing business or a bit of both. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00,
Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(29-99z). PTAUGBSW
Atelier Amaro G-4, ul. Agrykola 1, tel. (+48) 22 628
57 47, www.atelieramaro.pl. Its not hyperbole to call
Atelier Amaro one of Polands most modern restaurants, and
the folks at Michelin certainly agree; it is the first restaurant
in the country to land a coveted Michelin star. All the credit
goes to famed chef and owner Wojciech Modest Amaro,
who describes the cuisine as where nature meets science.
That science is molecular gastronomy, which means almost
nothing is as it seems: an amuse-bouche arrives on the
table with a flourish of dry ice fog, revealing caviar atop a
surprisingly citrusy foam. Meals can be 3, 5 or 8 moments
(what us regular folks call courses) and employ traditional
Polish plants like nettles and beetroot in unexpected, highly
creative dishes - like juniper ice cream hugging a miniature
chocolate cake with chestnuts (with dishes changing almost
daily, your menu will undoubtedly be different). Count us as
impressed that Amaro himself can be seen serving many
of the dishes in this intimate restaurant just inside azienki
Park. An absolute must for diehard foodies. Note that the
Bistro Warszawa B-2, ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. (+48)
22 635 37 69, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Proof that
not every restaurant on the Ol d Town square has to be
a ki tschy Polish throwback comes in the form of stylish
Bistro Warszawa, where soothing whi tes and greys - and
not a kni ck-knack in si te - of fer a modern oasis in the
heart of the ci ty. The menu is similarl y forward-thinking,
wi th pre-war Polish cuisine wi th marinated herring in
truf fl e oil and a crisp pear and walnut salad. And whil e
the atmosphere (and the regul ar j azz per formances)
suggest an upscal e experi ence, don t be afrai d to order
the more pedestrian Bistro burger, whi ch comes com-
pl ete wi th a paper cone of french fri es. Theres also a
ki ds menu availabl e upon request and a small corner of
toys for the wee ones. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (27-49z).
PTA6EGBSW
Brasserie Warszawska G- 3, ul. Grnol ska
24, tel. (+48) 22 628 94 23, www.brasseriew-
arszawska.pl. From the fi ne fol ks behi nd the peerl ess
Butcher y & Wi ne comes Brasseri e Warszawska - a
cul i nary capstone that wi l l surel y court the attenti on of
the fol ks at Mi chel i n. Prai se i s wel l -deserved here wi th
exquisi tel y prepared and presented cuisi ne matched by
expert servi ce i n an i nteri or that feel s both modern and
cl assi c at the same ti me. Di shes l i ke baked monkfi sh
wi th whi te beans, sun-dri ed tomatoes and chori zo are
worth every grosz, but Brasseri e i sn t above of feri ng
their take on more pedestrian fare like the fish and chips
speci al on Fri days. I n fact, i ts an accessi bl e type of
el egant that means no ti es are necessary, so come as
you are to sampl e thi s mi x of Pol i sh and i nternati onal
cui si ne. QOpen 12: 00 - 22: 00, Sun 12: 00 - 20: 00.
(35-75z). PTAUGBW
Chopskie Jado F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1 (entrance from
ul. Waryskiego), tel. (+48) 22 339 17 17, www.chlo-
pskiejadlo.pl. If youve been dying to try Polands traditional
lard spread called smalec then this is your place. A nationwide
chain devoted to serving rustic Polish food from the countryside,
Chopskie Jado dishes up heaping portions of meat and pierogis
on wooden slabs, with a dish of smalec and wedges of bread
complimentary. The dcor is country farm kitsch, with strings of
hams and ancient machinery dangling from the walls. Slide onto
a wooden bench (avoiding the decorative rusty saw) and start
with local soups served inside a loaf of bread before loosening
the belt and working through homemade dumplings and shanks
of meat served by staff that appears as if theyve just finished
milking cows. A winning intro to Polish food. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-65z). PTA6UGBS
Dawne Smaki C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 49, tel. (+48) 22
465 83 20, www.dawnesmaki.pl. Its great to find a
traditional Polish restaurant amongst the endless string of
international eateries on Nowy wiat. Dawne Smaki thrives
on old style Polish cooking, so get ready to sample a com-
prehensive range of home-grown specialities. The whole
spectrum is pretty much covered, from the basics like her-
rings in oil, pigs trotters in aspic, potato cakes and pierogi,
right up to some high class mains like venison with spinach
and thyme. Although a rather fearsome looking fresh water
based predator may not be on your list of priorities, pike has
always been popular throughout Polands culinary history;
the more adventurous should try Dawne Smakis version,
which comes fried and served in a light creamy sauce with
crayfish. Find Ciechan beers on tap, and Thurs-Sun there is
live music in the courtyard garden. Private parties can rent a
VIP space too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (19-79z). PTA6EGBW
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Delicja Polska F-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
45, tel. (+48) 22 826 47 70, www.delicjapolska.pl.
One of the top eats around, set to a swish country manor
background of chintz, flowers and candles. Enjoy duck with
apple pancakes while aproned staff cater to your whim and
fancy in what is set to be one of the premier dining experi-
ences on the royal route. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-74z).
PTAGBSW
Dom Polski H-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616
24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Much ink has
been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these
pages, but there is no getting away from the fact that this
is a good restaurant. Found in a discreet villa on Warsaws
millionaires row you can expect Rolls Royce service from
the minute you walk in. The food is equally good, chosen
from a menu which is mercifully short, with just a couple of
starters and several main courses to choose from; how it
should be, in other words. We went for the urek followed by
the potato pancakes with smoked salmon and red caviar,
and couldnt fault a thing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (24-98z).
PTAUGBSW
Florian A-3, ul. Chodna 3, tel. (+48) 22 620 93 98,
www.florian.pl. Transport yourself back to the 19th century,
if you ignore the flat screen TV, and gorge yourself on tradi-
tional Polish fare. The pastel coloured rooms are bedecked
with antiques, paintings, all forms of dried flora and various
bits and bobs. Luckily, Florian manages to stay just the right
side of being overly stuffed with such decorative items, mak-
ing it an ideal place to savour some old style Polish dishes in
a relaxing atmosphere. Perhaps not the most exciting item
on the menu, but the pierogi are exquisite! A hunting lodge
style bar, designed around a 300 year old fireplace, is located
in the attic room. The building itsel f is rather interesting,
originally built by General Wilhelm Mier as a barracks for
the Szwolezerow guard way back in the early 18th century.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (18-55z).
PTABXSW
Folk Gospoda E-2, ul. Walicw 13, tel. (+48) 22 890
16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Far from promising on the
outside, Folk Gospoda unravels on entry as a glorious slice of
traditional Poland. Its inside a rugged interior of stout furnish-
ings and ceramic pots youll find boys and girls in peasant
attire rushing around carrying plates of fortifying Polish food
(think heaps of duck). Indeed, the Polish highlands meet the
city inside Gospoda, and thats never more so than when the
band strikes up to hoot and holler over the sound of busy din-
ers. Be sure to check out the wild Polish trout, an eco-friendly
dish that will have your shirt buttons pinging off in no time.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (24-69z). PTAUGBSW
Halka restauracja po polsku E-3, ul. Paska 85, tel.
(+48) 22 652 81 02, www.restauracjahalka.pl. Named
after one of Polands best loved operas Halka takes its name
seriously; interiors here have been painstakingly designed to
mimic a 19th century country manor, a clear nod to Stanisaw
Moniuszkos popular script. Dripping with elegance and lordly
touches this is upmarket Polish food at its best. And despite
what the well-done interior might suggest, they even have
a childrens corner. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. (21-59z). PTAGBSW
Literatka B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 87/89
(second entrance - ul. Senatorska 3), tel. (+48) 22 827
30 54, www.literatka.com.pl. Located in the shadow
of Zygmunts column on the Warsaws poshest street,
Literatka is a traditional Polish restaurant with a cosy feel
and an impressive range of Polski and international dishes.
Pierogi, pork and duck all make an appearance as well as a
more than acceptable sirloin steak. Its not bad at all and a
suitable way to finish a day ploughing the tourist trail in the
adjacent old town, and the daily lunch special (12:00-17:00
soup and a main for 16zl) is a deal. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(30-70z). PTA6EBXSW
LOKAL.BISTRO B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 64,
tel. (+48) 506 82 39 03. The former Grand Old Dame of
Warsaws designer burger bars, this bistro of high ceilings,
chalky walls, blonde wood and lots of varnished chipboard
has apparently grown disenchanted with Warsaws latest
food fad and is jumping off the burger bandwagon in mid-
February when they expand their menu. Fear not, the burgers
are staying on, but now youve got other grilled specialties
to choose from, plus regularly changing Polish and Interna-
tional dishes. Theres a heavy emphasis on local and Polish-
sourced ecological ingredients, and drinks-wise theres not a
Coke or Pepsi in sight; rather such oddities as beetroot juice,
Chleb Kwasowy (a traditional yeast fermented drink that may
well get your bowels going) and beer from the staggeringly
brilliant Browar Konstancin. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. (20-50z). TA6UGBSW
Obera Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem (Under the
Red Hog) E-2, ul. elazna 68, tel. (+48) 22 850 31
44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Workers of the world unite
around a large choice of well-presented Socialist Bloc cuisine.
Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members
of the early communist movement, legend has it that even
Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on
the style favoured by the 1950s -1960s party elite, and the
walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow
the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness
and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic
glam to it. Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike
(including Bruce Willis and boxing champ Lennox Lewis), 2012
saw The Hog voted one of the 25 best and most interesting
restaurants in the world by the Spanish Trade Leaders Club.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (26-69z). PTAUGBSW
Restauracja Rana G-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel.
(+48) 22 848 12 25, www.restauracjarozana.com.
pl. A two floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, flowers
and crockery. Very pretty, but youll soon learn they attract
return custom on account of the cooking, not the interiors.
The setting might look high end but the prices are certainly
not, and youll find Rana recognized across the city as
one of the best dinner deals around. The veal liver with
onions and cherry sauce is divine. Plenty claim to open till
the last customer but only these guys are the real deal - i f
theres people dining then the kitchen will stay open, and
that doesnt matter i f its midnight or daybreak. Give a
quick call ahead to check. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30-70z).
PTAEGBSW
Sony G-4, ul. Pikna 11 (entrance from ul. Krucza),
tel. (+48) 22 629 03 64, www.slony.pl. Magda Gessler
strikes again, but not with the usual overdecorated sit-down
restaurant weve come to expect; this time the celebrity
restaurateur has created a grown-up snack bar thats a com-
plete knockout. A glass case in the middle of the restaurant
houses a variety of canaps to choose from - wouldnt the
French die to see smalec and pickles on a canap? - and
the menu is populated with small meaty dishes primarily in
the 4-12z range (can we call it Polish tapas?). The simple
homemade white sausage with onion jam is on our city-wide
best-of list, and with one entire wall utilised for wine storage
you can sip and snack your way to pure bliss. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (12-36z). PA6GSW
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 87/89, Warsaw
Tel. +48 22 497 57 72
Tel./fax. +48 22 827 30 54
e-mail: biuro@literatka.com.pl
www.literatka.com.pl
Restaurant Literatka
is pleased to invite you for delicious
dishes of traditional Polish and
international cuisine.
52
RESTAURANTS
53
RESTAURANTS
of top priced game dishes and other posh alternatives.
Currently there is talk of a move but at press time no
one at the restaurant coul d tell us where, so beware
i f the door is barred. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (39-79z).
TAEGBS
Warszawa Wschodnia ul . Mi ska 25 (Praga
Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 870 29 18. Not content with
running a rather large number of restaurants in the city
centre, the Gessler clan now set their sights on the never-
quite-rejuvenated area of post-industrial Praga with this new
venture in one of the old buildings of the Soho Factory com-
plex. One of the two brick walled rooms is vast, the smaller
room has a central kitchen area which diners sit around and
watch the frantic goings-on of the chefs at work. Ultimately,
this island eating concept is rather irritating, noisy and a
tad aromatic in our opinion. Mind you, none of that stops
the young, rich and beautiful from piling in here. The kitchen,
under the command of Robert Kondziela, presents a modern
take on Polish classics and contemporary French cuisine,
and serves it round the clock. Q Open 24hrs. (40-90z).
PTA6UEGBSW
Zapiecek C- 4, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 22 692
41 35, www.zapiecek.eu. Packed through all hours this
pierogi kitchen assumes the Grandmothers country cot-
tage look, with pots and pans hanging from every shel f,
and lots of hard timber touches. Much talked about, their
deliciously light dough pockets come with all the fillings
you can imagine. I f you dont fancy a sit down then check
their street-level take away window for lunch-on-the-run.
Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 28 (C-4), Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1,
Arkadia). QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
(19-36z). PTAGS
Portuguese
Central Grill A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 101, tel. (+48) 22
370 25 52. Situated, ever so slightly, on the wrong side of the
Central railway station the location isnt great, but its on the
main drag and easy to find. The restaurant faade doesnt look
great, what with the Kebab shop style menu in the window - a
large garish board with photos of meat and chips and a fine pic
of a bleary-eyed fish poking its head out of a sea of fries and
some salad. Inside its a different story, warm colours, profes-
sionally set tables, the ubiquitous open kitchen and some
quaint pictures made up of traditional Portuguese tiles from the
owners former home of Madeira. The Portuguese and Brazilian
staff excel in their passion for grilling meat, plus a selection of
Northern Atlantic aquatic friends are also on the menu. A tad
pricey, but wait until you see the size of the portions and the side
dishes. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25-59z). PTAUGSW
Russian
Babooshka C-3, ul. Obona 9 lok. 102, tel. (+48) 22
406 33 66, www.babooshka.pl. A smart little place, if
youre a peasant, otherwise be prepared for benches, beer
and borscht. Russian cuisine isnt for the faint hearted, and
the Babooshka chain excels at serving large portions of vein
clotting meats and veg to the masses. Also at ul. Krucza
41/43 (C-4) and ul. Grjecka 18/20 (E-4). QOpen 12:00 -
21:30. (30-40z). PTA6UGBSW
Seafood
Osteria F-3, ul. Koszykowa 54 (entrance from ul.
Poznaska), tel. (+48) 22 621 16 46, www.osteria.pl. Some
of the best seafood in Warsaw, with a menu featuring fresh oysters,
langoustines, parrotfish (yes, really) and some very good octopus.
The modern interior includes hardwood and porthole finishes, as
well as aquariums from which African fish look on in alarm as their
colleagues meet a sticky end in the open kitchen. Q Open 12:00
- 23:00. Closed Sun. From September Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
14:00 - 21:00. (56-122z). PTAGBSW
Spanish
Casa Pablo A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22 324
57 81, www.casapablo.pl. Spanish restaurants are few
and far between in Warsaw, so its not hard to stand out if
thats the menu youre slinging. Yet Casa Pablo doesnt rest
on those laurels and ups the ante with creative Spanish-
influenced cuisine that meant wed heard about their duck
breast burger and creamy cauliflower soup before crossing
their threshold (another notable entree that seafood lovers
will appreciate is the scallops). That doesnt even touch on
the desserts, or the specials weve seen...not that youll
U Barssa B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 14, tel. (+48)
22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Old Town is packed
with standard places to eat, but has traditionally been
something of a desert when it comes to great places to
eat. Times are a-changing. As you walk into the elegant
dining room you will discover a world of luxury, craft and
privilege (oh yes, best save up before coming). Salad with
goat cheese and the signature duck a la Barssa (baked
with apples and served with cranberries and plum sauce
and accompanied by baked potatoes and beet konfiture)
are just a few of the treats you can expect, and we have
yet to mention the wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (39-
70z). PTAEGBSW
U Fukiera B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. (+48)
22 831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. The most famous
restaurant in town with a guestbook that speaks for itsel f;
Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are
a few of the names whove taken a seat here. The interior
is a work of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, its
hard not to feel a part of history when dining here. The food
is the perfect indulgence with perfectly presented game
dishes. Your bill is a di fferent matter, and may present a
double Dutch situation. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (41-105z).
PTJAGBW
U Kucharzy B-2, ul. Ossoliskich 7, tel. (+48) 22 826
79 36, www.gessler.pl. Cooking becomes theatre inside
U Kucharzy, a restaurant where chefs toil next to diners
inside what once served as the kitchen of the Europejski
Hotel. Black and white tiles, hams hanging from ceilings
and florid-faced chefs cursing over the din; eating here
is like being on the set of Ramseys Kitchen Nightmares.
The food is no nightmare, however, rather a collection
need any extra enticements once youve explored this unique
menu. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. (50-85z). PTAUGBSW
Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant C-4, ul. Bracka 2, tel.
(+48) 519 87 57 67, www.ole-restaurant.pl. The steak
trend in Warsaw shows no sign of losing steam as Ole adds to
the stiff competition amongst flesh slingers, but with a Spanish
twist. That theme is clear as soon as you step inside the small,
modern restaurant which uses images of Flamenco dancers to
line the mezzanine staircase. Weve seen diners swoon while
consuming the fresh tuna, and the Spanish tortilla packed
with zucchini makes an ideal light lunch when you dont want
a slab of beef weighing you down. Oh, but when you do, Ole
spoils diners for choice with Basque, Kobe, Galician and even
Sirloin with foie gras. Ask your server what he recommends,
as ours was liberal with solid recommendations. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (60-200z). PTAGBSW
Special Promotion Every Monday!
Try our delicious King prawns with
garlic and pepper.
Natara Old Town
Ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13
Tel. +48 22 635 25 01
Natara
Al. Solidarnoci 129/131
Tel. +48 22 654 66 66
Tai Taste Express
Ul. Senatorska 26
Tel. +48 666 101 500
www.natara.pl
ORDER ONE
GET A SECOND PORTION FREE!
54
RESTAURANTS
Thai Taste Express B-2, ul. Senatorska 26, tel.
(+48) 666 10 15 00. Although one has an increasing
choice to eat Thai in Warsaw they do tend to be pretty
chic, upmarket affairs with price tags to match. These
Thai guys have decided to approach their business from
a di f ferent angl e and proudl y proclaim themsel ves as
Thai street food specialists. The tiny bar, situated in the
plush Plac Bankowy area of the city, isnt up to much in
the design department, but who cares when the food is
tasty, cheap as chips and the staff are a jolly sideshow in
themselves? A big thumbs up for the fact that they are not
afraid to make proper use of chilli. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
(12-19z). PA6GBSW
Thai Thai B-2, Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. (+48) 601 81 82
83, www.thaithai.pl. Run by the Godfather of Warsaws
Thai cuisine, Sanad Changpuen, this restaurant is 100%
the real deal. No messing around wi th fusion concepts or
li ttl e Polish addi tions. The fi ve strong Thai ki tchen team
sti ck firml y to tradi tion and the resul ts are spectacular.
Based in the National Theatre buil ding i tsel f, the exte-
rior of hefty, grey stonework gi ves you no inkling of the
opul ent interior whi ch awai ts you. Black walls decorated
wi th Thai desi gns and gol d curved ceilings create a very
cal mi ng and rel axi ng envi ronment. The wel l l ai d out
seating areas also of fer you the opti on of dining in a
more pri vate space, great for business meetings or an
intimate dinner date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (37-150z).
PTAUGBS
Ukrainian
Kamanda Lwowska C-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. (+48)
22 828 10 31, www.kamandalwowska.pl. Heres a
restaurant that gets back to basics, offering up a cavalcade
of dishes that have been otherwise deleted from modern
Warsaw. Featuring peasant pictures and brick ceilings
this isnt the experiment in vanity you expect of ul. Foksal,
choosing instead to hark to the times when Ukrainian Lviv
was actually Polish Lww. The emphasis is firmly on the good
old days - before moustached dictators started dictating
Polands borders - and the design is a pleasing jumble of
craftwork and clutter. The menu, too, has been painstakingly
perfected, and includes such masterstrokes as cheesecake
cooked to a secret grandparents recipe . QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. (38-90z). PTAEGBSW
Vegetarian
Biosfeera F-6, Al. Niepolegoci 80, tel. (+48) 22 898
01 55, www.biosfeera.com. An ultra-funky interior full of
hanging canvas lamps, orange dashes and shining wood
finishes generates the hip atmosphere normally lacking in
Polish vegetarian haunts. The Koza Italiana is a fantastic
way to prime yourself for the meatless main courses that
come with names like Szpinakolada and Tortilla Kama
Sutra. Freshly squeezed juices and fruit cocktails come as
refreshment, and expect the thousand-yard stare if you ask
for a beer and an ashtray. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (29-39z).
TA6UGBSW
Green Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 6, tel. (+48) 602 27 17
50, www.greenbar.waw.pl. An oasis of veggie goodness
in the meaty heart of this carnivorous city, Green Bar keeps
it simple - soup, quiches, light meals and the like - but does
so very well indeed, and keeps prices low, ensuring it a
steady stream of customers - at lunchtime especially. Just
about your only veggie option this close to the city centre,
we say get here while you can. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. (12-15z). PAUGBS
Sol y Sombra A-3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok.16, tel.
(+48) 22 404 70 11, www.solysombra.pl. Formerly
Cuatro Caminos Tapas Bar, Sol y Sambra seems to have
kept the formers kitschy dcor as well as their consis-
tently delicious cuisine (new owner, new chef), which is
authentically Spanish to the core. The lunch special lands
you soup and a main, and we cant say enough for the
gazpacho when its in season. The paella requires a bit
of a wait but its well worth it, and the tenderloin with goat
cheese is also highly recommended. As the third tapas
bar to call this address home were thinking this one is a
keeper. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
(29-49z). PA6UEGBSW
Tex-Mex
Frida C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 42
18, www.frida.pl. Mexican ballads, sombrero shaped
ashtrays and splashy pictures of Frida Kahlo; this place
has the lot. Service is great, flirty even, while the menu
gets gongs for featuring all the right Mexican suspects.
Theres a distinct lack of dynamite to the salsa, but all in all
this is a decent addition to Warsaws Mex offerings, and a
definite alternative to your more tried Nowy wiat venues.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (29-70z).
PTA6UEGBS
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel.
(+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl.
In a country that considers ketchup spicy were always
trepidacious when restaurants boast of any sort of heat
factor. Fortunately, the Warsaw Tortilla Factory isnt kidding
when they call their habanero mango salsa explosive. The
rest of the Tex-Mex menu also lives up to expectations, with
outsized burritos few adults can finish and a cheesy Philly
taco thats so wrong its right. And dont forget chicken
wings for 1z on Tuesdays. Heck wed probably lick the
guacamole off the floor and wash it down with a Corona.
We doubt anyone at the WTF would blink i f we did since the
mixed crowd of locals and ex-pats is equally as focused on
their salsa-laden plates. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00
- 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (29-69z).
PTA6EBXSW
Thai
Natara A-2, Al. Solidarnoci 129/131, tel. (+48)
22 654 66 66, www.natara.pl. Natara has one of the
strangest dining spaces weve encountered: fi ve tabl es
are squeezed i nto a cramped, l ow- cei l i nged second
fl oor thats so stuf fy we saw a diner appl y deodorant
mi d-meal. But you know what youre going to do? Put up
wi th i t, because the food is excell ent. The pad Thai is
the best weve had in Poland, and the stir-fri ed ri ce wi th
cocktail shrimps, pork and pineappl e is a steaming pil e
of excell ence. The menu comes in two giant tomes and
has pl enty of curri es, vegetarian dishes and noodl es to
hol d you over until your next trip to Thailand. Also at ul.
Szeroki Dunaj 13 (B-1). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (20-48z).
PTAGBS
Papaya C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 826 11 99,
www.papaya.waw.pl. Well never tire of recommending
Papaya, an ice white venue rated as one of the best restau-
rants in the city. Oysters come plucked from the aquarium,
while an open kitchen allows the pleasure of watching the
chefs at work; these guys dont miss a beat, and show off
every trick in the book as they create standout dishes like
steamed bass in banana leaf and class pad Thai. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (32-265z). PTABXSW
PLAC TEATRALNY 3, WARSAW
TEL. +48 601 81 82 83
INFO@THAITHAI.WAW.PL
57
CAFS
56
CAFS CAFS
CAFS CAFS
Blikle Caf C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 33, tel. (+48) 22 826
64 50, www.blikle.pl. A part of Warsaw folklore. This is
where Charles De Gaulle used to come for his donuts back in
his Warsaw days, and Blikle still sell a chocolate and marzipan
cake honouring their famous guest. A classy, august venue, with
a menu available until midnight that includes a range of break-
fasts, lunches, ice creams and a dessert selection that will have
you in heaven. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PTAGBSW
Bubbleology B-3, ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleol-
ogy.pl. Few things have gotten us more excited than the
arrival (finally!) of bubble tea in Poland. Bubbleology is a
UK chain that offers milk and fruit teas that can be mixed
in any number of combinations - - just ask one of the lab
coat-wearing bubbleologists behind the counter for their
most creative recommendations; passionfruit and vanilla?
Taro and kumquat? Its just tea and tables here, but thats
all you need to enjoy this tall, cold refreshment. Also at ul.
Wooska 12 (E-7, Galeria Mokotw). QOpen 10:30 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 23:00. PA6GS
Cafe Baguette B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 69, tel.
(+48) 22 828 76 10. Confronted with Cafe Baguettes impres-
sive wall of loaves and pastries its fair to question whether you
took a wrong turn on K-P and somehow ended up in a cosy
Parisian boulangerie. In a city where good bread can be harder to
find than happy stories Cafe Baguette is a welcome (and already
popular) addition. Salads, quiches and thick sandwiches fill up
their display case, while baskets of croissants and desserty
goodness surround the register. The outdoor seats provide a
great spot for people watching while diving into sticky pastries.
Also at ul. Zota 59 (A-4, Zote Tarasy). Q Open 06:00 - 24:00;
Fri, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 01:00. AUGBSW
Cafe Prna B-3, ul. Prna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620
32 57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Making a stir with Warsaws
intellectuals is Cafe Prna, a cracking cafe set inside a
shattered building that looks ready to keel over. Youll be
lucky to find a seat inside this narrow venue, even more so
if theres a lecture or reading going on. Decorated with pre-
war photographs, Prna comes with a pile of well-thumbed
history books in the entrance, tiny tea candles and a base-
ment level to soak up any overflow of customers. The only
disappointment here are the smoothies; nowhere near as
good as the venue deserves. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Mon,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 6GBSW
Caf Vincent C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 22
828 01 15. This place is a great French bakery and coffee
shop doing a huge range of authentic pastries and bread.
This is rather unfortunate as the large queue and tiny shop
space move quickly while you dither, and you also risk being
smacked by a baguette if you turn around too quickly, but its
worth it as a coffee and croissant will set you back less than
20zl. Also at ul. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 06:30
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 01:00. PA6UGBSW
Christians Baker House C-4, ul. Ksica 6, tel. (+48)
22 628 63 45, www.bakerhouse.pl. Stop thinking religious
tea and book shops frequented by little old ladies in the UK,
or why its not Christians Bakery or Bake House? That aside,
this is a rather nice little mix of bakery, caf and restaurant.
Whitewashed wood and plain white walls rule the roost here
and large handwritten blackboards inform you of whats on of-
fer. Bread and savouries are baked on the premises, ensuring
a constantly fresh supply. A short menu includes a tasty pigeon
carpaccio, game rarely seen on any Polish restaurant menu. In
our opinion, the real Diamond is the breakfast menu featuring:
Full English, Paris, New York, Ankara and a host of other options.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PTA6GBSW
Coffee Karma F- 4, ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. (+48)
22 875 87 09, www.coffeekarma.eu. Earnest looking
intellectuals read Hesse while taking languid sips of hand-
roasted coffee. Huge windows afford views of Pl. Zbawiciela,
and the staff are also adept at fixing exotic smoothies. Ten
out of ten. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. PTA6GBSW
Costa by cof f eeheaven C- 3, ul . Krakowski e
Przedmiecie 8, tel. (+48) 22 828 28 58, www.
costacof fee.pl. Costa recentl y upgraded thei r di gs
from a l ess-than-inspiring (and often faintl y bathroom-
spelling) l ocation on Nowy wiat to this new, airy and
arty space on Krakowski e Przedmi eci e. The transi tion
hasn t af fected the standard corporate menu of reliabl e
cof fees and pre-made sandwi ches, but the atmosphere
is a major upgrade and the clientele now skews decidedly
younger thank to i ts proximi ty to the Uni versi ty. One of
the best renewals of a tired brand that weve seen in a
whil e. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
PTAGBSW
Green Caffe Nero G-5, ul. Tadeusza Boja-eleskiego
2, tel. (+48) 22 118 25 20, www.greencaffenero.pl. Its
the perfect caffeinated marriage: Polands popular Green
Coffee joins forces with the UK-based Caffe Nero to cre-
ate this first-of-its-kind joint venture. In this case everyone
wins - - Caffe Nero provides their Italian blends while Green
Coffee offers house-made sandwiches to the hungry PC-
users that swarm the fluffy couches and wood slab tables.
The cafe itsel f is on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, one stop down
on the tram from the too-cool-for-school Pl. Zbawiciela,
which means you wont be fighting underfed hipsters for
a seat. Theres still some growing pains to work out (the
musics too loud, the bathroom has windows that allow
you to wave at neighbours from the seat) but overall its a
match made in espresso heaven. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
PA6GBSW
Leniviec B- 4, ul. Poznaska 7, tel. (+48) 22 350 77
77, www.leniviec.pl. The name roughly translates as
Lazy Guy and Leniviec really is one of the better trendy
cafes for just collapsing in a heap, drinking some fine
coffee from the comprehensive menu and you can even
select from aeropress, chemex or drip methods of brew-
ing. Nice, light and healthy food is on offer and early birds
can pop in for a selection of breakfasts from 7.30am.
The weekend themed buffet breakfasts are also proving
to be a big hit. In the evenings check out the cocktail bar
menu; budding alcoholic spies can sip on a Vesper martini
- made to the exact recipe from Casino Royale or, seeing
as you are in Warsaw, del ve into the Made in Poland
section. Waiting times can be a bit of a drag, but hey,
youre a lazy guy, whats the rush? QOpen 07:30 - 24:00,
Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
A6EGBSW
Ministerstwo Kawy F-4, ul. Marszakowska 27/35,
tel. (+48) 503 08 09 06, www.ministerstwokawy.pl.
Another caf at Plac Zbawiciela? Just when we thought it
had reached critical mass (Charlotte, Coffee Karma and
Kawiarnia Funky are all mere steps away) Ministerstwo
Kawy throws open its doors and proves that all you truly
need for a successful coffee shop is an espresso machine,
a few chairs and reliable Wi-Fi. Oh, and bathrooms. Students
have claimed this place as their own, and the tables are
consistently filled with backpacks and half-eaten bowls of
soup. Our favourite spot for pulling long laptop sessions
with no hassle or hipsters. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. PA6UGBSW
Petit Appetit C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 27, tel. (+48) 22 826 44
61, www.petitappetit.pl. The sprawling street of Nowy wiat/
Krakowskie Przedmiecie is now bookended with boulangeries:
on the northern end theres Cafe Baguette, and on the southern
Petit Appetit. This French newcomer already impresses by of-
fering fantastic homemade crepes and fluffy omelettes along
with authentic crusty bread that patrons can watch being baked
via a large glass window on the kitchen. The usual pain au
chocolates and creme brulees line the bakery case along with a
mind-boggling array of loaves that beg to be taken on the go (in
your bicycle basket no less). Our only complaint? The coffee cups
lack useable handles! Yet its a price were willing to pay for a little
taste of Paris. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PAUGBSW
NEW
Relax Cafe Bar B-3/4, ul. Zota 8a (Pasa Wiecha), tel.
(+48) 22 827 35 65, www.relaxcafe.pl. Relax has long been
one of our favourite escapes in the city centre for fine coffee
(including aeropress and French press) and great homemade
cakes. Find it in part of the former Relax Cinema building, just
behind the main drag of big stores on ul. Marszalkowska. Check
out the communist era cinema neon sign on the end of the build-
ing which is located around 100m from the caf itself. The lovely
staff spend most of their time nattering away to customers and
enthusiastically pointing out hard to find destinations to lost
looking tourists on maps of Warsaw. Recently, they have added
a range of 25 regional bottled beers to the menu and be sure
to sample the Cider Inn - Polands best home-grown attempt
at the fruity elixir. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00,
Sat 10:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. PA6GBSW
Sodki Sony G-4, ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. (+48) 22 622
49 34, www.slodkislony.pl. Exceedingly ornate interiors an-
nounce the arrival of one more Magda Gessler venture, this one
with a heavy emphasis on cakes, pastries and chocolate. Theres
guilty pleasures aplenty in this place, and all packaged inside a
design thats half Martha Stewart and half English country house.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00. PA6GSW
Starbucks Coffee C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 62, tel. (+48) 22
829 40 21, www.starbucks.pl. Anti-globalists weep. After
years of threatening so the agents of Satan, Starbucks, have
opened shop in Warsaw, and in the most obvious location of
all - bang on Nowy wiat. And its everything youd expect - big,
comfortable, popular, and with very good coffee combos to
keep the people coming over and over again. Also at (A-2) Al.
Solidarnoci 68a, (A-2) ul. Emilii Plater 53, (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyy
16 and (B-4) Al. Jerozolimskie 63. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30, Fri, Sat
07:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:30. PA6UGBSW
To Lubi B-1, ul. Freta 10, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23,
www.tolubie.pl. Divine. Coffee, cakes, pies, breakfast, cof-
fee and apple or plum crumble at 12z a slice (not necessarily
in that order). Opposite the church on a street that is best
known as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place
you can get all twee and generally Krakow for a moment.
Old/New Town should be full of places like is. I like this is
what the name means and we do. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00.
From September Open 09:00 - 22:00. PA6GBSW
Wrzenie wiata C-3, ul. Gaczyskiego 7 (entrance from
ul. Nowy wiat 48), tel. (+48) 22 828 49 98, www.instytutr.
pl. Set back from stylish Nowy wiat, this combination bookstore/
cafe is so awash in hipster bookishness that you expect to see
James Franco hunched over a copy of 100 Years of Solitude. Mor-
rissey plays from the speakers, Mac laptops dot the tables, and
the shelves are stocked with epically titled tomes like The History
of Photography. Its a lot of pretense, but it works; we especially
dig the well-priced coffee and fast wi-fi. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. TA6GBSW
I f theres one uni versal truth about Pol es i ts that
they l ove their dessert. What mi ght be consi dered
a special treat or i ndul gence i n your country i s a
standard part of the meal, a stapl e not to be l eft out.
A lap past any i ce cream parl our or bakery typi call y
reveals l ong lines and hefty purchases (yet still the
Pol es stay impressi vel y skinny. Unfair). Evi dence of
this sugary fanati cism can be found in the l ong tradi -
tion of chocolate l ounges, cafes that are devoted
to the cocoa-dri ven nectar in a way you thought onl y
Hansel and Gretel coul d imagine.
Karmello B-3, ul. Chmielna 11, tel. (+48) 533
33 04 80, www.karmello.pl. Taki ng i ts ti me i n
coming to the capital, this general newcomer to PLs
confectionery tradition has already established itsel f
as one of the countrys finest chocolatiers with ten
shops in seven other Polish cities. Packed full of stun-
ning display cases that practically sparkle with over
50 varieties of exclusively-crafted chocolates - plus
truf fl es, chocolate bars, candied chocolate-dipped
frui t and other special ties - the hot chocolate and
cof fee concocti ons are per fect on a col d day and
theres a lovely terrace in the warm months. Ideal for
picking up a nice gi ft in a pinch, or plan ahead and
get some sweets personalised in advance. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. PTAUGBSW
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8,
tel. (+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl.
The reason everyone at Czekolady Wedel looks like
theyre in a daze is because this is the mothership of
chocolate cafes, ground zero for all things dark, milk
and achingly sweet. Wedel is the countrys longest
established chocolate manufacturer and one of the
best known brands i n Pol and. Thi s cl assy venue,
featuring comfortable seating in room after room of
tables, is located in what was once the factory and
cafe of the Wedel business. Youll still be able to taste
the original chocolate creations of its founders which
were so popular that Karol Wedel had to introduce
a factory seal carrying his signature to combat the
number of forged Wedel products that were filling
the market in the 1860s. The menu here is impressive
in both its size and scope, covering every variety of
chocolate drink, dessert, truffle and ice cream dish
imaginable. Chocolate comas are inevitable. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PTAGBSW
Wawel B-3, ul. Krlewska 2, tel. (+48) 22 828
14 99, www.wawel.com.pl. Yes it sounds awfully
similar to Wedel, and their histories are equally alike.
Confectioner Adam Piasecki founded the company in
1898 in Krakw and, making it through World War II,
Wawel became a recognisable Polish brand for sweets.
Their Warsaw chocolate lounge is located on swank
Krakowskie Przedmiecie, and though it is nowhere near
as vast as the Wedel lounge nor as daunting in menu
choices, chocoholics can still indulge in a ridiculous
array of truffles and treats. The hot chocolates impres-
sively diverse for the adventurous, with Cherry Crush
and Cinnamon Islands recommended for those who
like to compliment their chocolate with additional fla-
vours. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 21:00.
PAGBSW
Chocolate Lounges
58
NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE
Bars & Pubs
Warsaw has a thriving bar scene, and hitting up one of
the many venues listed here offers the chance to sample
Polands national beverage - vodka - long with plenty of local
beers. Youll be offered beer either in 0.3 or 0.5 litre sizes,
and prices depend greatly on how swank your establish-
ment; expect to pay 7-10z for a large beer for the most part.
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar B-4, ul. Poznaska
12. Our favorite new addition to Warsaws bar scene, Beirut
is pure atmosphere - the bar itself is made with sandbags,
after all - and offers traditional Lebanese snacks like olive oil-
soaked hummus and falafel to pair with your beer. While the
weather is nice the front is open to the street, letting pass-
ersby marvel at the sound system and the unique hairstyles
of the hip staff. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAUEGBW
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67
77 65, www.bierhalle.pl. Warsaws best beer served in
a bi-level space filled with chunky woods, bare bricks and
industrial flourishes. The menu, presented by girls dressed
in countryside apparel, features big photographs of what you
can expect, including life-size pics of the beer - order a big
one here and youll be left getting to grips with clunky two pint
steins that are ideal for showing off your bicep flexes. Also
at Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAGBW
British Bulldog Pub C-4, ul. Krucza 51, tel. (+48) 22
827 00 20, www.bbpub.pl. One of the biggest anti-climaxes
of 2012. Found in the venue that for many years housed the
uninviting London Steak House, the British Bulldog pub saw
the place completely rebuilt, a great year round terrace added
(where you can smoke) and the introduction of British and Irish
beers. A good looking menu and satellite television promised
some sort of choice for the English speaking expat zloty. And
then the British front man leaves shortly after the re-launch and
the place loses traction. Far be it for us to declare this place
as lost so early as it still looks impressive and the beer is wet
and the satellite connected, but its got a lot to do particularly
in the kitchen and on the service front to get a thumbs up from
us. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PABXW
Cafe Kulturalna (Culture Caf) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1
(PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 62 81, www.kulturalna.pl. Cafe,
bar and club, Cafe Kulturalna is an amazing space, and un-
missable if you appreciate a venue with character. Decorated
with vinyl armchairs, artwork and tasteless 50s chandeliers
this is a magnet for the student intelligentsia. DJs, film screen-
ings, readings and assorted artsy tosh regularly held. Find it
in the Palace of Culture on the Marszakowska side of the
building next to the theatre in the south-east corner. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. AUEGBW
Cuda na Kiju C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 6/12. Finally the wait
is over and Warsaw has its very own specialist draught beer
bar. Housed in the former communist party HQ, just next to
the statue of General De Gaulle, this 3 level bar hosts an
impressive 16 taps pouring beers from around Poland and
Europe. The enthusiastic and highly knowledgeable barmen
are constantly on the prowl for new guest beers for the ever
changing menu. The interior design is unobtrusive and kept
to a minimum which makes for a nice and airy atmosphere
and outdoors features three different seating areas, so take
your pick depending on the weather. The owners should really
be given a special prize for this brilliant initiative, in true War-
saw tradition what theyll probably get instead is dozens of
copycat bars appearing around town in the coming months!
QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. PAEGBW
A thriving capital city it might
be, but Warsaw still lags be-
hind other European hotspots
when i t comes to hedonis-
tic capers. There is no area
trul y set aside for nightli fe,
and hailing taxis to get from
Bar A to Club B is a tediously
frequent occurrence. The area
around Pl. Pisudskiego and
Pl. Teatralny has become a
firm favourite with a dressy crowd of new money Poles,
somewhat replacing the more established territories
of Nowy wiat, Pl. Trzech Krzyy and ul. Sienkiewicza.
I f dressing to the nines is firmly out of the question
then consider heading across the river to the artsy bars
cropping up in the Praga district. In a worrying develop-
ment many clubs have now assumed the thinking that
the clothes maketh the man, and youll find most places
now operating a velvet rope door policy to ensure only
those kitted in their Saturday finery make it as far as the
dance floor. Open hours listed should only be treated as
rough approximation; in practise many bars and clubs
will open way beyond the call of duty if the need arises,
but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors
if business is slow.
Here are a few recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local:
Bierhalle is a large microbrewery on Nowy Swiat that
churns out respectable vats of beer in a central loca-
tion. Plan B is a popular local hangout at bustling Pl.
Zbawiciela.
Cheap:
It has to be The Secret Garden, a ramshackle collection
of dive bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Swiat that of-
fers Warsaw drinking in its rawest form. And if you dont
mind herring and 5zl vodka shots explore the 24 hour
zakski bars like Warszawska and Pijalnia Wdki i
Piwa to drink like a local.
Lads:
For Sky Sports and grub then take your pick from The
British Bulldog, Warsaw Tortilla Factory, Legends
and Someplace Else. If youve cleaned up and are ready
to impress hit up Foksal street for clubs like Sketch and
Foksal XVIII, which boast A-list clientele. But if your
requirements are a little more carnal read up on our
adult section and then proceed wisely.
Couples:
If you like to swill custom cocktails try newcomer Pies
Czy Suka, but if you prefer your drinks in one of two
colours - white or red - then try Vinoteka 13. However
i f your true love is obscure beers then Kwadrat will
melt your heart.
Splurge:
Panorama Bars cocktails are worth the dip into your
wallet, as are the views from the 40th floor (those drinks
will definitely cost you). If youre dressed to impress hit up
Club Capitol for the chance to drink like a champagne-
loving oligarch.
Night at a Glance
60
NIGHTLIFE
61
NIGHTLIFE
Drink Bar Jasna 24 B-3, ul. Jasna 24, tel. (+48) 22
447 24 41, www.jasna24.pl. Pop downstairs into the
drink bar area of the Jasna 24 restaurant for a more laid
back experience. The room forms an altogether darker and
warmer space than the upstairs restaurant yet manages to
maintain a similar elegant look. We suggest you grab one
of the couched areas, order a sexy cocktail and just chill out
for the evening. If hunger strikes and the short bar snacks
menu doesnt look like it will stop your tummy rumbling,
simply order from the restaurant and the waiting staff will
happily bring your order down to the Drink Bar. On Fridays
a DJ appears to spin the latest tunes.QOpen Fri, Sat only:
17:00 - 01:00. Restaurant open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
From September open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
PTAGB
NEW
Haka Bar C-4, ul. Bracka 20. Haka proves that size isnt
everything and the raw brickwork and industrial look doesnt
have to be in a building with the dimensions of a zeppelin
factory. Run by every Warsaw expats favourite Irishman,
Kevin Bradley, and his business partner Kasia Chelpinska,
this 30m2 bar is a great place to mingle with locals and
foreigners, chill out with a glass of fine wine and attack the
stunningly innovative menu with gusto. In order to get a feel
for the ever changing international and modern culinary vi-
sions of Kiwi chef Shane Baker, try out the mix and match
sharing platters. Keeping all the punters happy the daily lunch
menu regularly features meat, fish and vegetarian options.
Considering the quality on offer, prices are exceptionally
reasonable. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. AGBW
Hard Rock Cafe B- 4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Sure you
dont need to see Freddie Mercurys red leather pants to
enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesnt hurt. The Hard Rock
Cafes large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even
when live rock shows arent on the agenda. The endless
bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily
ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee
Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung
to Madonnas early 90s frame. When music is on tap the
crowd becomes more varied (and youthful) but just as
devoted to the strum of a Fender. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
PAUGBW
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48)
502 07 09 16, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. You will not
find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; this place
looks like its been ransacked by students, and its almost
advisable to check yoursel f for fleas when leaving. Decora-
tions arent so much limited as virtually non-existent, and
you wont find much more than brick walls and a collection
of seats that appear to have been rescued from the rubbish.
But while it looks scruffy this has emerged as one of the
best places in town, with off-beat performances enjoyed
by a crowd that doesnt get out of bed till way after noon.
Q Open Fri, Sat only 19:00 - 05:00 and during events.
PAUEBXW
Klaps C- 4, ul. Nowy wiat 22/28 (Pavilion 12a).
Peculiarities abound in the drinking maze known as The
Secret Garden, but none come close to matching Klaps in
the weirdness stakes. Theres dildos for beer taps and a wall
of plastic boobs, and like everywhere in this area, you wont
find beer costing more than 9z. Finding it is a challenge in
itself - its close to the passage that connects the courtyard
to Smolna. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Mon 15:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PAX
NEW
Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska H-3, ul. Zwycizcw
49, tel. (+48) 22 270 21 79, www.klubokawiarnia.
net. Cool caf/club across the river in Saska Kpa. Housed
in a row of 1950s shop fronts, the owners have managed
to modernise the interior while remaining sympathetic to the
history of the building. On the ground level youll find the white
tiled bar serving up a variety of drinks, cakes, light dishes
and a selection of trendy European magazines, including
Wire and Wallpaper (the design magazine for those who
dont like reading!). Downstairs the small events room is
home to exhibitions, readings, cult film screenings (shown in
their original languages) and live music; we still squirm with
embarrassment when recalling seeing a Finnish electro-pop
geezer acting like a lethargic robot and gyrating his groin just
inches away from our faces. Expect bands to have names like
Root Canal Treatmentwere not kidding! QOpen 11:00 -
02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. PTA6UGBSW
Kraken Rum Bar B-4, ul. Poznaska 12. The first thing
that hits you upon entering this little seafood joint is the great
smell which immediately makes you think of harbourside
cafes and holidays to the seaside with your bucket and
spade. The interior is reminiscent of a fishermans shed;
fish-box wood, sun bleached driftwood tables and chairs and
a selection of old maritime imagery. The seafood is simply
presented, very tasty and well priced. Also, try the Kraken
beer which is made especially for the bar by the brewers at
Artezan - Polands smallest brewery. The staff are a tattooed,
trendy bunch, but rather than being press-ganged and forced
to set sail for the Greenland fisheries, we suspect theyve just
dropped out of uni and possibly taken a pedalo for a spin on a
boating pond. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
PAUGBW
So long as you have food
in your mouth, you have solved all
questions for the time being.
Franz Kafka
Wierzbowa 9/11, Warszawa
www.momu.pl gastrobar@momu.pl
+48 506 100 001
fb.com/MOMU.gastrobar
NEW
Kufle i Kapsle B/C- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel.
(+48) 22 127 72 18. Hot on the heels of the ori ginal
Warsaw real al e bar Cuda na Ki j u comes thi s beer
dri nkers paradi se. The name Kufl e i Kapsl e means
Beer Mugs and Bottl ecaps and the interior is a per fect
bl end of European tradi tional bar desi gn mingling wi th
Polish features, such as the large til ed heater in the back
room. Twelve taps are on offer and the bottled beer selec-
tion has more vari ety than a Glaswegian glass recycling
bi n! An i nteresti ng sel ecti on of bar snacks are al so
availabl e; bil tong, prunes wrapped in bacon and warm
French pastry wi th savoury toppings. Keen to spread the
gospel, the owners are also responsi bl e for the Warsaw
beer trail map, j ust ask at the bar. In contrast to many
other l ocal bars, expect i t to be packed and buzzing from
around 17:00. We l ove i t! QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 04:00. AGBW
Kwadrat F-4, ul. Poznaska 7 (entrance from ul. Wil-
cza), tel. (+48) 790 01 00 88, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.
One of our favourite finds this year, Kwadrat is a tiny little
place thats not unlike popping round a mates house - pro-
vided your mate had seven tables and a fridge full of beer. And
wow, what a fridge it is. Hiding inside it find some of the great
beers of Poland, the Czech Republic and Ukraine, including
Ciechan and Obolon: superb brews that do a lot to redress the
damage caused by the megabrand beers. Theres not much
more to this place, just a friendly welcome, cheap prices,
chilled out tracks and a hip 20s crowd usually engrossed in
some board game or other. Highly recommended, even more
so if you just want a good night with select friends. QOpen
16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. PAGBW
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro F-3, ul. Marszakowska
99a (Metropol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 325 31 06,
www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Bathed in a soothing for-
est green glow this is a classic jazz bar where aesthetic
shortcomings are brushed over with a pot of atmosphere.
Take to one of the swivelly barside stools to knock back
the barmans creations while taking in nightly jazz perfor-
mances that fluctuate hugely in both style and volume.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
Pikna Bistro G-4, ul. Pikna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627
41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Bright, modern, airy. Pikna
Bistro is everything you dont expect of a jazz bar, with a
smart-casual set of customers picking at food inside an
attractive interior that could have come from a catalogue.
Recent renovations have created a modern and inviting
space to see live performances which are consistently
excellent, and better still, never loud enough to completely
sink conversation. Smokers will be happy to note they can
slip into the Espresso space to have a puff. QOpen 09:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PA6UEGBW
Jazz
ul. Jasna 24
Warsaw
(+48) 22 447 24 41
www.jasna24.pl
FEEL
THE REAL
CHILL
OUT
62
NIGHTLIFE
Momu Gastrobar B-2, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance from
Pl. Teatralny), tel. (+48) 506 10 00 01, www.momu.pl.
Its been years since adding the word Gastrobar to the name
of an eatery created such excitement, but this is Warsaw! As
well as a comprehensive range of drinks and cocktails, Momu
serves up a great mix of tapas dishes, salads, seafood and,
the pice de rsistance, designer hotdogs! The tapas and
hotdogs are pretty small affairs but are reasonably priced and
great to accompany the drinks on offer. The slightly austere
interior is compensated for by the colourful garb of Warsaws
trendies. Staff are casual and quick, so well forgive them for
handing us a menu that looked as if it had been in a scrap with
an irate Rottweiler. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00,
Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PAUEBXW
OSP Saska Kpa ul. Walecznych 74 (Saska Kpa),
tel. (+48) 603 10 38 88. Sharing none of the pretence
of nearby ul. Francuska, this great caf, social club and fire
station (crazy, but true!) is by far one of the jolliest places in
Saska. OSP attracts a variety of customers; off duty firemen,
locals, arty types and a very happy little Jack Russell terrier.
Tasty, cheap home cooked food and a good range of difficult
to find beers are on offer, including Pan tu nie Sta - a Polish
brew which comes wrapped in a sheet of printed newspaper.
Regular music/film nights and appearances by eccentric
outside caterer Latajcy Talerz (The Flying Plate) also add
to the fun. Dont forget to try on the collection of firemens
helmets and hats after a few beers. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PAUEGBW
Panorama Bar & Lounge B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79
(Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 74 34, www.panoram-
abar.pl. Warsaws highest bar - and indeed Polands - sits on
the 40th floor of the Marriott with prices to match the top tier
location. The views of Warsaw glimmering below are outstand-
ing, and theyre no longer the only reason to visit. Gone is the JR
Ewing glitz and chrome, replaced instead by a tasteful interior
consisting of flock print wallpaper, violet seating and clever
lighting. Theres no better place for Sleepless In Seattle
seduction, or a corporate chinwag. Q Open 20:00 - 02:00.
From September open 18:00 - 02:00. PAUXW
Paparazzi B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 22 828
42 19, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Not everyones cup of tea
perhaps, but every time we come here we always think to
ourselves they get little wrong and a lot right. Serves good
food - and the kitchen is open nearly as late as the bar most
nights (until 01:00) - good cocktails and a decent pint. And,
whisper it, but you can smoke here: in fact, it is business as
usual on the smoking front, as the whole place is a smoking
zone, apart from two small tables at the entrance. Thats
why its full when all around is empty. Top marks. QOpen
18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAEXW
Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel.
(+48) 22 881 83 73, www.piesczysuka.com. Pies Czy
Suka (Dog or Bitch) is a high-end design boutique that
opened a craft cocktail bar with stunning results. The space
itself is what youd expect when design folk are in charge:
touchscreen menus and lots and lots of white. Yet the imagina-
tive drinks are they main focus, and though they dont arrive
quickly, but they do come with a free show; creating molecular
foam and juicing figs takes some elbow grease, and conver-
sations are punctuated by the loud, rhythmic thwack of ice
against the cocktail shaker. The recipes require the kind of
precision normally reserved for brain surgery, and unexpected
ingredients like dry ice and cranberry caviar can often mean
your drink requires a spoon. Expensive, but worth every zloty
- try the Gin Basil Smash or Tequila Rucola Smash. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. AGBW
A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in re-
cent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known locally
as Zakski Przekski (literally Appetisers & Snacks), or
Polish Tapas as its been dubbed by some, these trendy,
formulaic budget bars cash in on communist nostalgia
and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection
of simple, local appetisers (typically served cold) for about
8z each, with drinks typically fixed at 4z. Familiar as the bar
food of the lean communist years, the menu reads like a list
of correct answers to the Jeopardy question Foods that
follow vodka and typically includes ledz (pickled herring
in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiebasa (sausage),
pierogi, pickles and tartare. Much like a milk bar with a liquor
license, Zakski Przekski bars offer budget food and drink
late night and are a great place to meet the citys strangest
characters. We list the best in Warsaw below:
Bar Warszawa de Luxe B- 2, Krakowski e
Przedmiecie 79, tel. (+48) 510 40 08 64, www.
barwarszawa.pl. Bar Warszawas popularity has been so
explosive theyve created a satellite location, Bar Warszawa
de Luxe, to handle the late-night overflow. While the original
of this recipe at ul. Miodowa 2 - which combines ridiculously
cheap Polish food and booze with nerdily dressed employ-
ees - only services customers until 04:00, the Deluxe
version is open 24 hours slinging 11z snacks like herring
and 5z vodka shots. Newly added live music can be seen
Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, while DJs take over
the dancefloor on Sundays. Q Open 24hrs. UEGB
Meta na Foksal C-3, ul. Foksal 21, tel. (+48) 22 826
45 13, www.metanafoksal.pl. Decorated with old vinyl,
newspaper clippings and propaganda posters this eat-on-
the-run venue unites Capitalist Warsaw with the PRL pig of
the past. Put simply this place is Przekski Zakski taken to
the next level, a very high one at that. Snacks weigh in at nine
zoty, and a shot of voddie at five. Also at ul. Mazowiecka 11
(B-3). QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PAGB
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 19, tel.
(+48) 796 11 00 00. When the vaunted New York
Times came to Warsaw to do a story on the growing trend
of old-school zakaskas bars - watering holes with cheap
4zl vodka and beer and piles of pork jelly - they headed
straight for the experts at Pijalnia Wodki i Piwa, the current
kings of the 24 hour Soviet-era drinking dens that have
seen a resurgence lately. Q Open 24hrs. PUGB
Przekski Zakski B-2, ul. Ossoliskich 7 (en-
trance from ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie), tel. (+48)
22 826 79 36, www.gessler.pl. Located on the ground
floor of what was once the Europejski Hotel the impossibly
named Przekski Zakski offers round-the-clock bites to
a loud line of boys and girls making their way home from
the pubs and clubs. Food is consumed promptly and
standing up, and traditionally topped off with a shot of
vodka. A renovation of their existing location means they
will be relocating, but at press time no one could tell us
the when or the where. Q Open 24hrs. G
Warszawska F-4, Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. (+48) 694
89 40 37. If zakaskas bars are all the rage, then Warsza-
wska is currently top of the heap for the see-and-be-seen
set. Its location at the hipster epicenter of Pl. Zbawiciela
guarantees large late night crowds; a recent Friday night
saw numbers in the hundreds pouring out of the tiny bar,
sipping cheap beers while lazing on the torn up tram tracks
on ul. Marszakowska. Q Open 24hrs. AGBW
Polish Snacks & Shots
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NIGHTLIFE
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NIGHTLIFE
Plan B F- 4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel. (+48) 503 11
61 54, www.planbe.pl. Walk up a curving stairwell to
enter Plan B, a venue where the ceilings are high and the
windows are low - so low youll have to crouch for views of
pl. Zbawiciela. Plan B has seen minimal investment, with
a design that must have set the owner back the price of
a packet of sausages; decor is limited to little more than
tatty posters, white tiles and sofas with springs practically
sticking out of them. But this place has become astonish-
ingly popular, especially with students and other sorts
who look like theyve just finished band practice. Dont be
surprised to find the party spilling outside, with gangs of
drinkers chucking frisbees and sharing sneaky puffs on
Moroccan cigarettes. Drunkenness is ri fe and encouraged,
and its only fair to note this place has become a bit of a
magnet for expat lads looking to tap up impressionable
Polish girls. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00.
A6BXW
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagielloska
22, tel. (+48) 501 04 84 71, www.po2stronielustra.
com. This unique Praga bar used to be much like the
district itsel f: artsy, mysterious and a little bit junky. But
after recently moving locations, the bar has left behind
the thi ck l ayers of gri me and hi story at thei r former
Zbkowska location and simply brought their strongest
suit - an endless collection of craft beers - along with
them to ul. Jagielloska. Sure, it feels a little weird to not
stick to the tables and to use a toilet that has an actual
seat attached, but were happy to exchange that charm
for a more grown up (and cleaner!) headquarters. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. AEBXW
Sketch C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. (+48) 602 76 27 64,
www.sketch.pl. Sketch is something of a Warsaw classic.
Set in a sterile white hall the bars major lure is the beer,
namely the best selection youll find in the city. There are
about 160 to pick from, and these range from gourmet
Belgian to banana stuff from Ghana. The heavy import duty
has been directly handed down to the customer, with some
bottles selling for a wincing 25z, though youll find these
prices offset by calming lounge sounds and soothing lights
that glow from vertical columns. A smashing night, and one
which doesnt end until youre exactly that. QOpen 12:00 -
01:00. PAGBW
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 60a, tel.
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. An off-
shoot of Fabryka Trzciny, though a darn sight easier to get
to than its daddy bar/club. Situated inside a weird concrete
bungle this construction looks more like a car park than
bar, but dont let that stop you from further investigations.
Concerts are frequent, and frequently excellent, as are
the book signings and vernissages. The location splat in
the middle of Krakowskie Przedmiecie means theres no
shortage of lookers to train your eyes on. QOpen 10:00 -
01:00. PAUEGBW
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.
someplace-else.pl. Someplace Else is an expat legend,
and the comfortable open-plan space and industrial bar are
a great setting for the mix of live sports and music that can
be found here almost every night of the week. Still boasting
one of the best bar menus in the city - were fans of the Orient
Express burger - its easy to come for dinner and stay into the
night to sample from the long list of extravagant cocktails
(flaming Lamborghini, anyone?). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGBW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel.
(+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.
pl. This long-established Tex-Mex bar is one of the go-to
hangouts for ex-pats, thanks in part to the Irish owner Niall,
though discerning the various accents becomes harder
with every margarita and Corona that goes missing. Once
youre inside theres something for everyone: Sky Sports
on the TV, live music on weekends, and a decent pint of
Murphys or Guinness. The global crowd is easy to mix with
and accepting of outsiders, especially when they buy the
tequila shots. Added bonus: the separate smoking room
will save you a trip outside. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. PAEBXW
Warszawa Powile G-2, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b, tel.
(+48) 22 474 40 84, www.grupawarszawa.com. Set in
a former ticket hall this PRL-era concrete rotunda proved one
of the hits of last summer, and a bit of a gathering ground
for those enjoying post-Luztro fix-me-ups. Interiors here are
all cheap and chipboard - tables included - and while it looks
tatty and torn its become a HQ of sorts for hardcore clubbers
hiding their horror behind reflective specs (which explains
why the neighbours want it shut down). How to find it? Walk
down the platform on Powile Station, then hang a right down
the stairs. An extra incentive to visit: they are now serving
burgers too. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat
09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PAUEGBW
W Oparach Absurdu (In The Mists of Absurdity)
H-1, ul. Zbkowska 6, tel. (+48) 660 78 03 19, www.
oparyabsurdu.pl. This bar could have a weird-off with fellow
Praga bar Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra that would easily end in
a draw. Both favour twinkle lights, flea market knick-knacks
and crap furniture, though Absurdu has embraced colour,
and bright murals, to set it apart. Absurdu is spread over
numerous rickety levels and populated by local bohemians
who crave live music and strong drinks. A small menu of
snacks and Polish staples (yep, pierogis) are available to line
your stomach. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. PAUEBXW
Znajomi Znajomych C-4, ul. Wilcza 58a, tel. (+48)
22 628 20 61, www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl. With two
levels and a strange arrangement of rooms newcomer Zna
Zna can feel as if youre wandering through an M.C. Escher
drawing. Heres a primer: the first floor features a large smok-
ing room and several adjacent rooms with seating, and the
main floor has a bar with DJ/dance floor - we saw a keytar
being played - and more labyrinthine seating areas. The pile of
taxis outside should tell you this is currently one of Warsaws
favourite places, with huddles of hipsters and interpretive
dancers sharing space and spilling drinks together. Theres
even a respectable menu of pasta and pizza thats available
into the weekend wee hours (weekdays 1 a.m., Sat 3 a.m.,
Sun 12 a.m.) to soak up the booze, and a movie room for
weekly Wednesday night (20:00) screenings. Recommended.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00,
Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PAUEXW
Clubs
Clubs in Warsaw range from sedate to sinful, and we cover
the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means youll most
likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing times you
might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until the sun comes
up. Expect a cover charge at most venues that can range
from 5-20zl depending on events, and note that toilet paper is
often a luxury that seem to universally run out around 10 p.m.
For the specifics of whats on daily visit warsaw.inyourpocket.
com and check out our Events Calendar, which givies you a
breakdown of all the evenings club nights with one click.
FREN
C
H
TREN
D
S
FROM
Jung & Lecker B- 4, ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. (+48)
22 866 67 49, www.jungilecker.pl. We loved the
back garden here, a cool courtyard space festooned
with paintings and plant li fe. Good thing the rest of it
isnt bad either as the garden is closed out of season.
A simple, chic design that doesnt go overboard, a
wine list which is exhaustive, knowledgeable service
and an increasingly trendy location all win it points.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. PAGBW
Wine Bar Miel yski D- 1, ul. Burakowska
5/7, tel. (+48) 22 636 87 09, www.mielzynski.
pl. Some cl ai m thi s to be Warsaws best wi ne bar,
and they mi ght wel l be onto somethi ng. Exper t
ser vi ce guarantees to i denti f y the wi ne that sui ts
you, and the sel ecti on i s ut terl y exhausti ve. An
absor bi ng venue, wi t h a decent menu of l i ght
bi tes to compl i ment the dri nki ng. QOpen 09: 00
- 23: 00, Sat 11: 00 - 23: 00, Sun 12: 00 - 18: 00.
PAUGBW
Winestone A- 4, ul. Zota 48, tel. (+48) 22 697
37 55. The latest concept restaurant project, located
within the city centre Mercure Hotel. Winestone takes
i ts name from the fact that i t stocks a great selection
of fine wines and also serves food on very fashi on-
abl e French stone tabl ets, otherwise known as Les
Planches. The calming and unfussy desi gn features
an unusual vi ol et and bl ack col our scheme, l arge
wooden tabl es and a hefty bar. Al though the menu is
heavily geared towards the French school, a selection
of Polish dishes are also on of fer. Everyone can feel
like a budding Oz Clarke wi th the rather helpfull y lai d
out wine list whi ch is spli t into four easy to decipher
categories - fresh and tasty, light and frui ty, balanced
and elegant, full and aromatic. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
PAUGW
Winiarnia Restauracja Superiore F- 4, ul.
Pikna 28/34, tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59, www.
superiorewinebar.pl. Yet another busi ness ven-
ture which has decided to make the move from the
once-posh, but increasingly sad-looking Miasteczko
Wilanw estate and into the centre of the ci ty.The
interior is slick rustic with the shelves of wine bottles
maki ng up much of the dcor. I tal i an wi nes take
priority here, but youll also find a good selection of
Spanish and Austrian wines. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
PAGBW
Wi nosf era A- 3, ul . Ch odna 31, tel . (+48)
22 526 25 00. Al r eady r unni ng success f ul
wi ne shops i n Poznan, Bydgoszcz and Ki el ce,
the Wi nosfera team now step up the pressure
wi th a mammoth Warsaw venture dedi cated to
the grape. The l arge shop stocks over 500 New
Worl d and European wi nes. Any of the wi nes on
of fer can be taken i nto the restaurant and wi ne
bar areas (corkage charge 25zl ). Weekend wi ne
tasti ngs by exper ts and wi nemakers from some
of the vi neyards on of fer are becomi ng regul ar
and popul ar events. The compl ex al so i ncl udes
pri vate functi on rooms, an ar t gal l er y and a 46
seat ci nema. QOpen 12: 00 - 23: 00, Sat 15: 00 -
23: 00. Cl osed Sun. PAUGBSW
Wine Bars
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NIGHTLIFE
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NIGHTLIFE
Bollywood Lounge B-3, ul. Przeskok 2, tel. (+48) 22 827
02 83, www.bollywoodlounge.pl. A weird and horrid loca-
tion, youll find Bollywood sitting inside a nasty pre-fab building
overlooking kebab shops and potholed roads but dont be put
off because while it promises little it delivers plenty. Growing
in popularity as the night moves on, its all sequinned eastern
drapes, scented water pipes and low-slung armchairs. The staff
with a few exceptions are Indian, friendly and clearly know how
to throw a party and the mix of crowd sees Sikhs partying away
alongside Polish blondies to the sounds of Bhangra and disco.
Poland is often perceived to be not particularly cosmopolitan
and rather conservative. Bollywood kicks that perception right
out of the park. For a special deal all booze is half off after 21:00
on Thursdays. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri
12:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Club Capitol B-2, ul. Marszakowska 115, tel. (+48)
608 08 95 04, www.clubcapitol.pl. Global recession
you say? Nobody told the chaps at Capitol, a jaw dropper
of a venue whose opening confirms north Warsaws status
as the official party part of the city. Filled with post-socialist
bling this venue is immense, and has seen the contents of
an oligarchs deposit box thrown into impressive interiors.
A pneumatic set of breasts should be enough to guarantee
female entry, while boys should consider adding an arrogant
lope to their step and some designer horses to their clothes.
And the promoters havent been slouches either, having so
far secured the appearance of several club circuit legends.
Theres no set opening hours, though its safe enough to
assume that if its a weekend its open, and the summer
garden is available every day from 12:00-22:00. Q Open
Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. PAEBXW
Club Mirage B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii
Plater), tel. (+48) 22 620 14 54, www.clubmirage.pl.
A totally unique experience, this is a club like no other in
Warsaw. Not because its anything particularly special, but
because it is set in the bowels of the monstrous Palace of
Culture. Descend the stairs through the entrance facing the
central railway station into a mass of writhing young bodies
getting down around the centrepiece fountain. Once youre
done there, retreat to the long bar and lounge area to relax
before heading back out into the surprisingly unpretentious
party crowd. The coat check looked after by moustachioed
men in their 50s gives a small hint of the days when this
place must have been frequented by the great and not so
good of communist Poland. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Wed, Thu
21:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAG
de lite club C-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. (+48)
797 17 03 87, www.deliteclub.com. Hot-pink newcomer
De Lite already has a crush of visitors wedging themselves
on the dance floor and around the backlit bar. A giant
screen projects images on the wall of the dance floor as
DJs spin, while the elite can retreat to a plush VIP area filled
with couches and pillows for winding down away from the
masses. And yes, thats an umbrella in your cocktail. The
quintessential club experience in Warsaw. Q Open Fri, Sat
only: 23:00 - 05:00. From September open Fri, Sat only:
22:00 - 05:00. PAEBXW
Element B-3, ul. Jasna 1, tel. (+48) 22 692 42 42,
www.elementclub.pl. Recently opened at the beginning
of summer this club is all about being showy: theres visual
effects to complement their sound system, three huge rooms
(including one for smokers and a VIP area), and endless
comfy couches for lounging. Expect a wide range of dance
music along with live acts and DJs at this new centrally
located club. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00.
PAEBXW
Foksal XVIII C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 885 16 08 85.
The star-studded summer opening was our first clue that Foksal
XVIII aims to take the Warsaw club scene by storm. The interior
mixes swank (chandeliers) with urban (exposed brick) with the
inexplicable (cardboard animal mounts!) in this large basement
space. DJs keep the dance floor - accented with a massive disco
ball - packed for a crowd that is both classier and better dressed
than your typical booty-shaking slopfest. So visitors should
take note: To mingle with the A-list youll need to bring your A
game. Q Open Wed, Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. PAEX
Opera B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75,
www.operaclub.pl. A no-expense spared design master-
piece found in the basement of the National Opera. Descend
the curving stairwell and all youll see is boys with attitude,
dressed in popped collared polo shirts, and a heart-stopping
spread of gazelle-like girls. If you were wondering where the
good lookers went, youve found the answer. Tread down
wood boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main
arena, checking out the numerous side rooms on the way;
this place was formerly known as Bedroom, and thats be-
cause of the alcoves found shooting off in every direction.
Each comes decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian
drapes, and serve as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities.
Q Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. PAEBXW
Organza B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 609 88
66 44, www.kluborganza.pl. After a 10 year streak on the
Warsaw scene Organza had to close down and move, but
that short hiatus has not caused it to lose its footing. The
new black-and-orange bi-level space is regularly packed, and
apparently no one here thinks disco is dead as the regular
Wednesday disco fever dance parties attest. If hen parties
and students dont make you cringe then neither will Organza.
Q Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PAEXW
Platinium Club B-2, ul. Fredry 6, tel. (+48) 22 596 46
66, www.platiniumclub.pl. Status is everything in Warsaw,
and youll be awarded plenty of it if you can wheedle past
the gatekeepers at Platinium. Door policy is stringent here,
mercilessly culling the beasts from the beautiful, thus ensuring
everyone inside is either rich or beautiful - sometimes both. Re-
garded as Warsaws finest club this place, set inside a historic
former bank, has seen plenty of money spent, with a design
that includes marble columns, chandeliers and glowing floors.
This is champagne living Warsaw-style, meaning hot sounds
from the DJ decks and a riotous party that goes way, way late.
Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 21:00 - 06:00. PAUEXW
Room 13 Club & Lounge B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 13, tel.
(+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13.pl. Warsaw has had
the benefit of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) lately, and after
visiting venue upon venue Room 13 is the one that stands out.
The interior has a striking fallen angel theme, with pillowy clouds
painted across the ceilings in the multiple rooms, and giant im-
ages of what Victorias Secret has taught us an angel looks
like. And if your idea of heaven is two bars, VIP space, a wide
array of music and lots of high heels, then consider this your HQ.
QOpen 22:13 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PAGW
Utopia B-3, ul. Kredytowa 9, tel. (+48) 22 826 58 35.
Utopia has been revived after closing its old spot on ul. Jasna,
and this time its more inclusive than ever: hen parties happily
mix with the rainbow flag set, all in the name of hip-popping,
locking and twerking Friday and Saturday nights. During the
week its more of a mellow cafe, and this local favourite starts
up their popular seasonal cinema after dusk from Wed-Sat
with twilight film screenings throughout the spring; check their
website (when it functions) for details. QOpen 16:00 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PAUBXW
BarKa G-2, ul. Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie 31/33.
Brainwave for the heatwave from the alternative guys
responsible for the Plac Zbawiciela mayhem of Plan B,
and the city centre avant-garde Powikszenie Club. Barka
is basically a flat topped barge, pimped up to look modern
and cool by the designers at Project Praga. Once youve
navigated the narrow gangways and the security blokes
youll find a bar, concert and dance area. A whole series
of gigs and guest DJs will be appearing throughout the
summer and the venue is regularly mobbed with par-
tygoers.QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00.
AEXW
La Playa Music Bar C-1, ul. Wybrzee Helskie
1/5, tel. (+48) 22 331 49 75, www.laplaya.pl.
2013 sees this legendary Warsaw club entering its ninth
year on the summer season scene. From May 24th
September 25th this tropical-style beach club will once
again welcome its yearly throngs of the young and the
beautiful with open arms. A variety of world orientated
DJ nights are in store, with a heavy emphasis on Latin
beats during the weekends when the samba and salsa
crowd take over the outdoor dance floor. A professional
instructor is also on hand to assist those with two left
feet. If dancing the night away isnt really your thing, how
about making use of the beach volleyball/badminton
court, boules area or playing frisbee? Just ask at the
bar and theyll supply you with the gear needed for free.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 02:00. AEGBW
Miasto Cypel H- 4, ul. Zaruskiego 6, tel. (+48)
600 503 668, www.miastocypel.eu. Cypel Town
appears in and around a natural wooded area near the
Czerniakowski Port. Young Polish independent design-
ers and artists set up shop in small multi-functional
huts in order to present their ideas and products. Every
Saturday the town hosts a farmers market, where a
wide range of ecological and natural produce from the
farms around the Mazowieckie district will be on sale.
On Sundays its the turn of the fashion brigade, so get
ready to check out the work of young Warsaw fashion
designers or just rummage through the racks of vintage
gear on offer. An outdoor theatre festival, sports events
and childrens workshops will also run throughout the
summer. Additionally, a whole host of concerts and DJ
sets have been organised with stars of the Polish and
European underground scene.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, but
open as late as 05:00-06:00 when they have events.
Temat Rzeka H-2, Beach next to Poniatowski
Bridge (on Praga side), tel. (+48) 790 51 07 60.
Temat Rzeka is a new initiative to further develop the
popular beach area by the Poniatowski Bridge on the
Praga side of the Wisa. Covering an area of 23000m2,
the beach has been spruced up for the summer season
and a new 2 storey container-like, post-modernist club-
house and bar has been erected on the site. The team
responsible for the project have high hopes for turning
the whole zone into an area for recreational, artistic and
business activities. All we can tell you at the moment is
that the bar is open and on hot days people are already
flocking to the beach for a spot of sunbathing, while
Wednesday nights see a summer cinema on the beach.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Wed 11:00 - 02:00, Thu 11:00 -
03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. AEXW
Seasonal Places
Simply the best food
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We invite you for our special
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ul. Pikna 28/34, Warszawa
Tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59, www.superiorewinebar.pl
69
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
68
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Coyote Bar & Night Club B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8,
tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56, www.coyotenightclub.pl. On
the new Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote Club is
an adult entertainment establishment of the girls in their
underwear which leaves little to the imagination will dance
for you variety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not as outra-
geously priced as in other similar places and we have to say
that the girls we bumped into when we popped in for a quick
one were sirens. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00.
PAUXW
Kokomo B- 4, Al . Jerozol i mski e 53 (entrance
from ul.Pankiewicza 4), tel. (+48) 22 356 20 16,
www.kokomo.com.pl. One of the most central stri p
bars i n Warsaw, though don t l et that stop you taki ng
advantage of the Kokomo l i mo servi ce. From there on
i n i ts your eyes that wi l l be doi ng al l the work as they
pi nbal l around thei r sockets focusi ng on the troupe of
pi n-up bunni es. Two rooms to choose from, as wel l as
a wel l -stocked dri nk bar ser vi ng al l the concocti ons
necessary to compl ete your previ ew of heaven. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00. PAG
Libido Gentlemans Club B-3, ul. Kredytowa 9, tel.
(+48) 22 828 23 07, www.libidoklub.pl. Newcomer Li-
bido was designed with the customer in mind: the large onyx
bar doubles as a runway for strippers, who sashay past
gaping customers (watch your drinks!) on their way to one
of three mid-bar poles. Head to the basement i f you prefer
your dances more intimate, where closed-off booths let
the dancers get up close and personal for 50zl. Everything
from the coat check to the bathrooms is above board, a nice
change for those who like their entertainment without the
usual seedy undertones. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed
Sun. PAX
New Orleans Gentlemens Club B-3, ul. Zgoda
11, tel. (+48) 22 826 48 31, www.neworleans.pl.
From Sunday to Wednesday youll find the girls kitted out in
evening dress, with a higher-class of punter choosing the
girl of his dreams before sitting down to a good, intelligent
natter. Of course, this being a strip club, the removal of the
aforementioned evening dress is also an available option.
At weekends youll find New Orleans reverting to the more
standard formula, with girls tottering around in next to noth-
ing, and offering the usual hip-grinding action. Now added,
a night restaurant with an erotic menu featuring oysters,
lobster and Argie steak. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
21:00 - 05:00. PAXW
Sofia F-4, ul. Polna 13, tel. (+48) 22 224 25 24, www.
klubsofia.pl. A legend in nineties and noughties Warsaw,
there was a time no self-respecting male could leave Warsaw
without having first visited Sofia. Those days may have gone
and so it seemed had Sofia. But it appears not with the open-
ing of this place, three years after the original closed, just
down from Pl. Zbawiciela which boasts a modern spacious
club area and a host of minimally dressed women. In the wild
days of nineties Warsaw this was known in local parlance as
The Bulgarian Embassy. Itll be interesting to see if it lives
up to the reputation it built then. Q Open 20:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. PAUX
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Those who visited Warsaw in the nineties and around
the turn of the century may have lingering memories of a
seriously mucky city. With an estimated 1,500 brothels
in operation the city established a reputation as a des-
tination for hairy palmed perverts. Then along came the
late Lech Kaczynski as Mayor of Warsaw who became a
one man anti-sleaze machine driven by a zealous desire
to restore Warsaws lost innocence. While he never fully
succeeded in cleansing Warsaw of the brothels and the
flyers, Kaczynskis crusade had a striking impact.
One of the results of this campaign is that Warsaw now
offers a collection of seemingly legitimate and, on the
whole, fairly presentable Gentlemens Clubs. Brothels
still exist but not in the huge numbers that they once
did. Although there is no specific red light district youll
find a small concentration of brothels around al. Jerozo-
limskie, ul. Wilcza and ul. Nowogrodzka. Theyre simple
enough to find, just look for the flyers pinned to car
windscreens or clogging up the gutters. Dont expect
English to be spoken, and dont reckon on being greeted
by the sirens pictured on the aforementioned flyers.
Now, in the old days wed use this space to fire some
recommendations your way. Legal factors now make
that a foolhardy path to pursue, so instead we advise
prospective punters to visit the Polish forums on www.
internationalsexguide.com, where the message boards
are alive with the latest despatches from the frontline, as
well as pics and maps from the more committed post-
ers. For independent girls check websites such as www.
odloty.pl and www.sexatlas.pl, where youll find a choice
of literally hundreds upon hundreds of feisty Polish girls
promising a lively time. Your third choice is to simply put
your faith in a taxi driver. More often than not this will in-
volve being driven to the suburbs and to whichever brothel
is giving the cabbie a kickback. Prices in these high end
establishments will tend to start at 200zl, though dont
be tricked into buying champers for the lady unless youre
sure you can afford it. Similarly, greenhorns should watch
their wallet in strip clubs - bills easily spiral, even more so
when the drinks start being poured.
Scumbag, fly-by-night brothels still exist; STDs are a
fact of the trade, and dont think for one jiffy youre
beyond reproach. Do not assume either that the Barbie
of your choice is in on the game because she enjoys roll-
ing around with aging baldies. Poland has an appalling
record where human trafficking is concerned, and its
safe to assume a fair few ladies staffing such venues
have been coerced into their career. Finally, the venues
listed here are generally central and established but
please be warned that in recent months weve had a
report of 8,000zl being spent willingly in one club listed
here and another of 8,000 sterling being spent unwill-
ingly in one which is not listed here. In the second case
half of the money was retrieved from the bank because
of payment irregularities but be on your guard.
Vice Advice
71
70
HISTORY HISTORY
Earl y forti fi ed settl ements are
believed to have existed in what is
now the district of Brodo as far
back as the 9
th
century, and while
historians struggle to conclusively
agree as to exactly when Warsaw
was founded most appear to accept
that the first recorded mention of
the city can be traced to 1313.
Things started looking up for the
city in 1413, when the ruling Dukes
deci ded to shi ft the capi tal of
Mazovia from Czersk to Warsaw. Over the next century it
gathered importance as a trading point, and was incorporated
into the Kingdom of Poland in 1526. The town was expanding
in both status and stature, though nothing was to prepare it
for the bombshell that arrived in 1569. The Union of Lublin
amalgamated Poland with Lithuania, and as such the decision
was taken to centralize parliament and move it from Krakw
to Warsaw. Twenty seven years later, in 1596, King Zygmunt
III Vasa decided to follow suit and shifted his Royal Court north
as well, thereby making Warsaw capital of this newly-formed
commonwealth. Of course, Warsaw then was a di fferent
creature to the Warsaw of now. The old town area, secured by
its walls, consisted of 169 houses, while another 204 homes
stood just outside this protective boundary. In total just 14,000
people lived in the newborn capital.
Testing times lay ahead. Between 1665 and 1668 Warsaw was
ransacked three times, and if it the natives thought that was bad
you should have seen their faces in 1700; the Great Northern War
kicked off when an anti-Swedish alliance comprising of Russia,
Poland and Denmark launched the opening attack. The Swedes
werent having any of it, and by 1702 their counter-attack had
landed them at the gates of Warsaw. Over the next few years
Warsaw was passed back and forth like a bag of sweets, sustaining
heavy economic and physical damage in the process. The war,
a right epic scrap if ever there was, drew to a close in 1721 and
Warsaw was finally left to pick up the pieces and move forward.
The Collegium Nobilium, a posh boarding school for the
landed classes, was opened in 1740, and this was promptly
followed by Polands first library seven years later. This age
of enlightenment promised much for Poland, a fact not lost
on her three neighbours: Prussia, Russia and Austria. Little
Poland was clearly getting too big for her boots, so the three
acted swiftly by imposing the First Petition of Poland in 1772,
a move which essentially robbed the country of a third of
its territory and population. Nonetheless, her three bullying
neighbours clearly hadnt counted on Stanisaw August
Poniatowski, the countrys last king, and arguably her finest.
It was under his leadership the Constitution of May 3
rd
was
ratified in 1791. This landmark code was the first of its kind
in Europe (and only second in the world after the USA), with
reforms focused on handing more power and freedom to
the general populace. Poniatowski was hailed as almost
visionary in his outlook, however his ideas once more stirred
his neighbours into action. This time round both Prussia and
Russia moved to weaken Poland in The Second Partition of
Poland (1793), snatching away 308,000 sq/km of territory,
and reducing her to just 223,000 sq/m.
Provoked by this latest aggression the Poles fought back
launching The Peasant Uprising of 1794. Led by Tadeusz
Kociuszko the insurgents scored a notable victory at Racawicka,
but eventually superior numbers told and the rebellion ended in
surrender. The following year Russia, Prussia and Austria joined
together to carve what remained of Poland between them.
Napoleon offered the capital brief respite, and when his
armies marched eastwards in 1807 he created a semi-
independent Duchy of Warsaw. His failings on the battlefields
of Russia led to defeat, and within eight years Russian forces
had pushed the Frenchman back and regained Warsaw as
their own; Poland had effectively been wiped off the map.
Discontent with Russian rule was to come to a boil twice in the
following decades: first in the form of the November Insurrection
of 1831, and then again with the January Uprising of 1863. Both
rebellions were brutally crushed, and saw more patriots packed
off to serve penance in Siberia. Strangely, however, it was these
dark years that saw Warsaw blossom. Under the auspice of
Russian-born Mayor Sokrates Starynkiewicz the city developed
at lightning pace, and by the time of his death in 1902 the town
had acquired a modern sewage system, street-lighting, paved
streets and over 2,500 newly planted trees.
Still, resentment over foreign rule continued to linger, and it
was only the outbreak of World War One that promised hope.
The collapse of the Eastern Front saw the last Russian troops
leave in 1915, though these were immediately replaced
with German uni forms. Only when Germany signed the
armistice in 1918 was Poland finally freed from the shackles
of occupation. Arriving overnight in a sealed wagon, Jsef
Pisudski, a patriot who had been imprisoned in Magdeburg,
reached Warsaw on November 11 to assume leadership of
the nation. By the time of his death in 1935 this national
hero witnessed the introduction of the zoty, a failed coup
and the assassination of President Narutowicz. Even allowing
for these, nothing came close to the defeat of the Red Army
during the Polish-Soviet War of 1919-1921, a triumph which
not just guaranteed Polands short-term future, but Europes.
The twenti es and thirti es saw Warsaw fl ourish i nto a
confident, successful city, alas, we all know what was to come.
September 1 saw Nazi Germany start WWII with their attack
on the Westerplatte Peninsula in north Poland. By morning
Luftwaffe squadrons were firebombing Warsaw, and in spite
of dogged resistance the capital finally fell on September 30
th
.
The fate of the Jewish population, and the Warsaw Uprising, is
documented in detail elsewhere in the guide, so fast forward
instead to January 17, 1945. Liberation of sorts had arrived,
unfortunately for the Poles it meant spending much of the
following five decades under Soviet hegemony. In the wave
of Stalinist terror that followed businesses found themselves
nationalized, and political and religious leaders imprisoned.
Stalin died in 1953, but his legacy didnt. The Warsaw Pact, a
military treaty between eight communist states, was signed
in 1955 the same year Stalins parting gift to the city the
Palace of Culture was completed. A year on Pozan exploded
like a powder keg in what turned out to be the first street
demonstrations against communism. The communists
reacted in time honoured fashion, with their fists, and the
final score stood at 76 dead (unofficial estimates suggest
far, far more) and a city defeated.
In a bid to appease the people several hardliners were
dismissed and Wadysaw Gomuka was appointed as Polands
premier. Limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of
press censorship followed, and a political thaw set in. This
veneer of social happiness was shattered in 1970 when new
protests broke out, this time in Gdask. Forty four died when
the army suppressed the demonstrations, and for a while
things appeared to settle down. Edward Gierek came in to
replace Gomuka as First Secretary, and he set about turning
the country round. Living standards increased, and for a time
Gierek carried the tag of miracle worker. He wasnt. Gierek had
built a house of cards, propping up the Polish economy with
half-mad policies based on acquiring mountains of foreign
debt. The oil crisis of 1973 saw the creditors come calling and
by 1976 price increases were in the pipeline. A fresh batch of
riots broke out across the nation, and military might was once
more relied upon to bring the people to heel.
The public was starting to get restless, but their protests
needed focus and direction. That came in 1978 when Karol
Wojtya, born in Wadowice close to Krakw, was appointed
Pope in 1978. Wojtya, who had adopted the name John Paul
II, returned to Poland the following year, and his whirlwind tour
of the country is seen by many as the pivotal moment when
the nation gathered courage to defy the system. Do not be
afraid, spoke the pontiff to the masses, change the image
of the land this land. It was a veiled message, but a clear
one, and from there on the fuse was lit.
In the form of Pope John Paul II the Poles had found a spiritual
direction, what was lacking was a physical one. That came
in the surprising shape of Lech Wasa, an unemployed
electrician with an extravagant moustache and a podgy look.
Within the space of a second he went from no-one to someone
and bulldozed Polish politics into the 21
st
century. The year
was 1980 and workers in the Lenin Shipyards in Gdask were
fuming at the dismissal of a female crane operator. Talk and
promise of strike was rife, and the atmosphere heated. On the
spur of the moment Wasa climbed a gate and addressed
those below. Inadvertently he had made himself the public
face of Solidarno (Solidarity), a trade union that would
prove the slingshot that felled communism. This time round
the protestors had learned from their bloody mistakes and
rather than confronting the tanks simply locked themselves
in the shipyards. Leaders representing workers from across
the country joined, and hammered out a list of 21 demands
including the legalisation of trade unions. Days of tension
followed, with tanks and militia standing menacingly outside,
and for a moment Poland stood on a precipice.
Amazingly it was the government that backed down, on
August 31 it signed an agreement meeting the workers
demands. The first peaceful victory over communism had
been won.
This wasnt to last Solidarity continued to press for further
reform, and with the Soviet Union looking likely to invade the
Polish President General Jaruzelski declared Martial Law
on December 13, 1981. Though Solidarity was officially
dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate
underground. When Father Jerzy Popieluszko, Solidaritys
chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police
over a million people attended his funeral.
Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced
Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988,
and the following year Solidarity was once again granted
legal status. Soviet leader Gorbachev had made it clear he
wouldnt intervene in Polish politics, and when Jaruzelski was
pressured into holding partly free elections Solidarity swept
the board with Wasa leading from the front. The regime
collapsed and in 1990 Wasa was elected the first president
of post-communist Poland. Shock capitalist tactics were used
to rotate Poland into a free market economy, and while this
left several losers the nation emerged stronger than before.
Acceptance into the European Union in 2004 was proof of
this, and Polands rise illustrated by the decision to award it
co-responsibility for the Euro 2012 Football Championships.
Today Poland, with Warsaw as its figurehead, stands as
an exemplary member of the EU, and notably was the one
European nation to avoid recession in the recent global crisis.
1313: First written mention of Warsaw
1413: The regional capital of Mazovia is moved from
Czersk to Warsaw
1596: King Zygmunt III Vasa moves the Royal Court from
Krakw to Warsaw
1665-1668: The old town comes repeatedly under
siege, only just about surviving
1700: The Swedes invade Poland, capturing Warsaw
two years later and installing Stanisaw Leszczyski as
a puppet king in 1704.
1764: Stanisaw August Poniatowski is crowned King
1772: Poland is partitioned for the first time
1791: The historic May 3 Constitution is signed, in-
advertently prompting the second partition of Poland
two years later
1795: Third Partition of Poland
1807: A semi-independent Duchy of Warsaw is created
by Napoleon. Its dissolved eight years later following
Frances military disasters and Warsaw falls once more
under Russian control.
1830: The November Uprising breaks out
1863: One more anti-Russian rising breaks out, this one
know as the January Uprising
1915: The Russians leave Warsaw in disarray but are
immediately replaced with Germans. Independence
takes another three years
1920: The Red Army is defeated at the gates of Warsaw,
saving post-war Europe from communism
1939: Nazi Germany invades Poland.
1943: Jews remaining in the Ghetto rise against the
Nazis. Their insurgency is crushed
1944: The people of Warsaw launch the Warsaw
Uprising, but are defeated following 63 days of resistance
1945: The Red Army liberates Warsaw but Poland is
forced to kowtow to Moscow for the next few decades
1989: The communist regime crumbles
2004: Poland enters the European Union
2010: Poland is plunged into national mourning after a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski and all on board
crashed while on its way to a memorial service in Katy.
2012: Poland successfully co-hosts the Euro 2012
football tournament with neighbouring Ukraine (though
the Polish team didnt make it out of the group stage).
Warsaws Historical Timeline
72 73
SIGHTSEEING
ESSENTIAL WARSAW
Sightseeing and Warsaw
dont usually go together,
and the blame for that falls
on her citizens. While some
cities may have been happy
to wait out Nazi occupa-
tion, the Warsaw locals
were having none of that.
The ensuing uprising which
took place in 1944 would
become both the most glo-
rious and tragic episode in
the citys history. Doomed
from the outset the Warsaw
Uprising enraged Hitler, and
his retribution proved swift
and brutal. Warsaw was to
be wiped from the face of the map, and his cronies set about
their orders with a zealous fury. While Red Army tanks stood
stoically stationed across the river the Nazis set about blasting
western Warsaw from the map. Anything deemed of cultural
importance was dynamited, and whole districts were set on
fire. By the time liberation arrived, over 90% of the city lay in
total ruin. I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere
have I been faced with such destruction, commented a visibly
moved Eisenhower on a later visit to the city. That the city still
stands at all is tribute enough to the indefatigable spirit of the
Polish capital.
Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than the Old
Town, and its here that most tourists will choose to start
their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photographs as an
architectural blueprint the Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt,
the reconstruction of the historic centre only completed as late
as 1962. The areas inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage
List speaks volumes for the effort involved, and nothing is more
striking than the colourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that
frame the Old Town Square (B1/2, Rynek Starego Miasto).
The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, in-
cluding the striking St Johns Cathedral (B-2, ul. wietojaska
8) whose details number the gothic artworks of Wit Stwosz
as well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens.
Marking the edge of old town is the Royal Castle (B-2, pl.
Zamkowy 4), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incred-
ible cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour will
take you through the Kings apartments and chambers,
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments.
Although youll find plenty of photographic opportunities in
and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few shots for
the viewing platform at the top of St Annes Church (B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmieie), and dont leave the area without
first exploring the lesser known delights of the New Town.
There is far more to Warsaw than i ts ol d town however,
and one museum that demands to be vi si ted i s the
Warsaw Uprising Museum (D-3, ul. Przyokopowa 28). I ts
here, inside Polands best museum, that youll learn about
the ci tys doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944.
Packed wi th i nteracti ve di spl ays, photographs, vi deo
footage and miscellaneous exhibi ts this is guaranteed to
l eave a deep mark on all visi tors, and will go a l ong way
in explaining why Warsaw is far from the archi tectural
pearl i t once was.
Al though the Nazis flat-
tened the Jewish Ghetto
af ter a heroi c upri si ng
i n 1943 there are sti l l
traces of Warsaws Jewish
past, including a remain-
ing piece of the Ghetto
wall (E-3, ul. Sienna 55),
a memori al where the
loading ramp to Treblinka
once stood ( E-1, Um-
schl agpl atz) as wel l as
one of the largest Jewish
cemeteries in Europe (D-1,
ul. Okopowa 49/51). Most
recently, a trail marking the Ghetto boundaries has been
unveiled, its course interspersed with 21 dual-language
plaques at sights of specific interest.
The citys defining landmark however has to be the fearsome
Palace of Culture and Science (B-4, pl. Defilad 1). Looking
like something youd see in Ghostbusters the building tow-
ers at just over 231 metres in height - making it the tallest
and largest structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as
a gift from the Soviet people, it was completed in 1955,
and built using an estimated 40 million bricks the crowning
glory is the viewing platform on the 30th floor. While its
the most obvious, its not the only example of the Socialist
Realist style, and visitors have plenty to marvel at from the
everyman residential units of Muranow and pl. Konsytucji,
to the stern looking block that once housed Communist HQ
(ul. Nowy Swiat 6).
Across the river the Praga suburb is undergoing a long due
revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic haven is
evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the pre-war
Zabkowska street. But while the Praga area is breathing
once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of Warsaws
Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in particular
azienki Park and Palace (G-4, ul. Agrykola 1) and Wilanw
Palace - dubbed The Polish Versailles - (ul. Stanisawa
Kostki-Potockiego 10/16). Joanna Kortas
Paul Kowalow wikipedia.pl
Churches
Many Poles still see a direct connection between the church
and patriotism, explained much by the fact that during cen-
turies of oppression by neighbouring powers, the church
helped the nation of Poland to survive by giving Poles an
identity. Although on the wane in post-communist Poland,
the church still plays an important role in many peoples
lives and churches reflect the importance of religion in the
history of the Polish nation.
Holy Cross Church (Koci w. Krzya) C-3, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10,
www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw with-
out first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to
the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then
placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved
by Leonardo Marconi.
Although this serves as the churchs key draw theres several
other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this astonish-
ing Baroque creation. The churchs history originally dates
from the 15th century when a small wooden chapel stood
on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of the
1650s, the church was rebuilt in 1682, with the cornerstone
being ceremoniously laid by Prince Jakub, son of King Jan III
Sobieski. Designed by the royal architect, Jakub Bellotti, it
was completed in 1696 though over time would see numer-
ous additions to its shape. The most notable of these would
come in the following century when Jzef Fontana added two
Baroque crowns to the square-cut twin towers. His son Jakub
would later extensively refurbish the faade with Jan Jerzy
Plersch adding elaborate decorative touches to the interior.
Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaws
glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged
Adventure Warsaw ul. Miska 25 (Praga Poudnie),
tel. (+48) 606 22 55 25, www.adventurewarsaw.com.
Tours of Warsaw including the popular off the beaten
path tour which delves into Socialism, communism and of
course vodka, all while cruising in a vintage Nysa 522. You
can even get inside the Palace of Culture and Science for
a look around. Group, private and walking tours also avail-
able from this crew of young, enthusiastic local guides, who
will even take you out your stag party or host a pub crawl.
City Sightseeing Warsaw, tel. (+48) 793 97 33
56, www.city-sightseeing.pl. If Warsaw needed proof
that it has finally arrived as a tourist destination surely the
launch of City Sightseeing is it. Tours by way of a familiar red,
double-decker bus let you take in sights such as the Palace
of Culture, the Royal Castle, azienki Park and the Wybrzee
Gdaskie. Buy one ticket and hop on and off the bus as you
please. The bus departs daily between 10:00-17:00 from the
Palace of Culture on the Emilii Plater side (last tour leaves at
17:00). Commentary available in a multitude of languages
including English, Polish, Spanish, French, German, Italian,
Russian and Japanese. See their website for tour details,
routes and timetables. Q Tickets 24hr 60z, 48hr 80z.
Eastern Station Warsaw, tel. (+48) 513 60 55
18, www.easternstation.eu. Warsaws first bike tour
company gets it right with five different 3 hour unique
routes that take visitors to places that promise great
photo opportunities and streets that stray from the usual
Old Town tourist traps. The Wild Vistula trip gets you up
close to the river while the Cold War HQ trip will have
you climbing through a three story underground Atomic
Command Headquarters. A daily bike tour can be joined
at Wygodny Rower (Al Jerozolimskie 4) each day at 15:00
for 100z (they recommend calling ahead to reserve a
place). Those who prefer a walking tour can meet at King
Sigismunds Column daily at 11:00 for a 2.5-hour wander
through Old Town (free, but be sure to tip).
Warsaw City-Tour, tel. (+48) 500 03 34 14,
www.city-tour.com.pl. Bus tours of Warsaw on a
yellow double-decker bus. The tours start from the bus
stop on ul. Krlewska and run at 09:50, 11:50, 12:50,
13:50, 14:50, 15:50, 16:50 and 17:50. As of September
1 the 17:50 time is dropped, while as of Sept 16 the
12:50, 14:50, and 16:50 times go away. The route takes
about 1.5 hours to cover and covers all the major sites
in the city including Old Town, Jewish Warsaw, WWII,
Palace of Culture and Lazienki Park. Q Single journey
ticket 40/34z. One day ticket 60/54 z. Two day ticket
80/72z. Family tickets (2 adults and 2 children) 205zl/
day, 274zl/2days; 130zl single journey; (2 adults and 3
children 254zl/day, 340zl 2 days; 160zl single journey).
One and two day tickets offer hop on/hop off option.
NEW
Warsaw Dream, tel. (+48) 694 14 78 83, www.
warsaw-tourguide.pl. Armed with a degree in history,
tour guide Anna Kraus has put together a number of
well-researched, tailor-made tours of Warsaw, including
Pre-war Warsaw, Famous Varsovians and Battles and
Uprisings. The Warsaw Fairy Tales tour is specifically
designed for keeping the kids occupied with local stories
and legends about characters like the Golden Duck, or
the poor fisherman Wars and his mermaid wife Sawa
after whom the city is named. The half and full day tours
are in English, French, German or Hebrew and prices start
from 350zl for the half day experience (up to 4 hours).
Tours
YeIIow DoubIe-Decker Bus
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74
SIGHTSEEING
75
SIGHTSEEING
the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly
outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a
patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper
for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the
Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly rebuilt
at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes
and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is the largest in
Warsaw, and other points of note include an urn with the remains
of Nobel Prize winning author Wadysaw Reymont, and tablets
honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Sowacki
and WWII hero Wadysaw Sikorski. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun
14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please.
Jesui t Church (Koci Jezui tw) B- 2, ul .
witojaska 10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www.
laskawa.pl. Built at the behest of King Zygmunt III Wazas
confessor, Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance church
was constructed between 1609 and 1626 for the citys
Jesuit community. Having had something of a varied and
colourful history to say the least, it suffered at the hands
of the Swedes in the latter hal f of the 17th century, who
looted it of its entire contents, and it even spent time as a
storehouse during the Partitions. Also known as the Holy
Mother of Grace Church after the citys patron saint, the
church was returned to the Jesuits at the end of WWI only
to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944. Rebuilt between
1948 and 1957, the church has a few remaining original
interior parts - of particular interest is the 17th-century
picture of the Holy Mother herself. The crypt, not open to
visitors, contains the remains of Prince Karol Ferdynand
Waza and Maciej Kazimierz Sarbiewski (1595-1640), the
Jesuit priest, poet and court preacher to King Wadysaw
IV. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.
Military Cathedral (Katedra Polowa Wojska
Polskiego) B-2, ul. Duga 13/15, tel. (+48) 22 687
77 02, www.katedrapolowa.pl. Comprised of both the St.
Francis of Assisi Church and monastery and built between
1662 and 1663 by the Piarist friars, the extraordinary Military
Cathedral, also known as the Church of Our Lady Queen of
the Polish Crown, is the capitals main garrison church. Hav-
ing spent time as an Orthodox Church, prison, orphanage
and a depot for German soldiers during WWI the church was
reconstructed based on original 17th-century drawings after
independence in 1918 and became the seat of the field
bishop of the Polish Army. Again rebuilt after its destruction
during WWII, the church is now decorated with a peculiar mix
of religious and military artefacts, including a number of large
oil paintings depicting the most well known of Polands battles
and uprisings. Q No visiting during mass please. Open by
prior arrangement and for groups only. Alternatively view the
interior through the bars or get in before the mass at 18:00.
St. Annes Church (Koci w. Anny) B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 68, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 91,
www.swanna.waw.pl. St Annes survived the war with a few
token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what the Nazis failed
to destroy was very nearly demolished by a team of incompe-
tent builders - by 1949 the whole church threatened to come
crashing to the ground. The thoughtless construction of the
nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel had led to several landslides, result-
ing in huge cracks appearing in the floor of the church. It took
a team of 400 people two weeks of tireless work to stabilise
the undersoil and shore up the foundations. Intriguingly, this
wasnt the first time St Annes had survived vicious conflict
to find disaster around the corner. It escaped destruction
during the war with Sweden (1650-1655) only to be gutted by
fire two years later, apparently the victim of an arson attack.
The classicist faade dates from 1788 and is the design of
the royal architect Piotr Aigner. The interior holds even more
classicist and rococo details. The viewing tower is one of the
best in Warsaw and worth the 147-step climb. One other point
of interest concerns a simple wooden cross you will see there.
These two planks of wood became the focus of a battle that
threatened to divide the country in the summer of 2010. To
read the story behind that see our piece on the presidential
cross. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 18:30, Sun 13:00 -
15:00, 16:00-19:00. No visiting during mass.
St. Bennos Church (Koci w. Benona) B-1,
ul. Piesza 1, tel. (+48) 22 578 70 10, www.swbenon.
redemptorysci.eu. Bennos has a wacky history. King Sigis-
mund III was a devotee of St. Benno and invited peer priests
from Bavaria to Warsaw in the 17th century. Their main aim
was to support Germans living outside their home country.
Ironically, in 1944, the chapel was blown to smithereens by
you-know-who. Rebuilt by the Poles in 1958, it now has an
interesting interior dating from 1977. Q Open during mass
and by prior arrangement.
St. Casimirs Church (Koci Benedyktynek
- Sakramentek) B-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 2, tel.
(+48) 22 831 49 62, www.sakramentki.opoka.org.pl.
Founded by Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski, to
commemorate her husbands victory over the Turkish army
at the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church was de-
signed by Tylman van Gameren and was completed in 1692.
In 1944 it served as a Polish field hospital, and received
a direct hit from a German bomb, killing more than 1,000
civilians, priests, nuns and soldiers who were inside. Today
it has been fully restored and has a charred wooden cross
as tribute to those who died. Q Open by prior arrangement.
St. Francis Seraph Church (Koci stygmatw
w. Franciszka Serafickiego) B-1, ul. Zakroczymska
1, tel. (+48) 22 831 20 31, www.warszawa.francisz-
kanie.pl. Completed in 1733 this baroque masterpiece holds
the remains of St Vitalis; see the glass coffin for yourself by
visiting the chapel to your left. Many of the religious relics
found scattered around were donated by Pope Benedict XIV
in 1754, and this church is also entered in the history books as
holding the first free mass in Warsaw following the flight of the
Nazis. Q Open 06:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please.
St. John the Baptist Cathedral (Bazylika Ar-
chikatedralna w. Jana Chrzciciela) B-2, ul.
wietojaska 8, tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www.katedra.
mkw.pl. Originally built in the 14th century, St. Johns is
steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisaw August
Poniatowski, was crowned and eventually buried here, and in
1791 he also declared the Constitution of May 3 inside the
building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz
(writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Polands first president) and
various Mazovian knights, but its currently off-limits due
to renovations. Other interesting details to look for include
the covered walkway that links the Cathedral with the Royal
Castle. It was added in 1620 as a security measure following
a failed assassination attempt on King Sigismund III. As with
most major landmarks, it was the scene of heavy fighting
during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising and was subsequently left
in a heap of ruins before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style.
On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a
Goliath - a remote-controlled tank used by the German army.
A 17th century bell made by artisan Daniel Tym (who also
made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column)
can now be found in the centre of ul. Kanonia (B-2). The bell
itself never rang at the cathedral, but it has developed its own
legend: touch the top of the bell and walk its circumference
and your wish will come true. Q Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sun
Visits to Polands most prestigious street, Krakowskie
Przedmiecie, start by the Royal Castle, next to the
sabre rattling statue of King Sigismund. A popular
meeti ng poi nt wi th l overs and buskers al i ke wed
suggest you start your tour by taking the Socialist
Realist era escalator. From there head to St Annes a
neo-classical effort that survived the war but came
wi thi n a whisker of coll apse when work began on
the W-Z tunnel running beneath it. The 1949 tunnel
project caused several landslides and it took a team
of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations
and stabilise the soil. But the real hero of the hour
was Romauld Cebertowicz, a professor who invented
a way of solidi fying the soil by way of directing elec-
tric currents into it. The interiors of St Annes house
numerous intricate details, but the real reason for
visiting is the taras widokowy, a viewing platform on
top of the next door tower.
Next, make a beeline for the Mickiewicz monument
that honours Polands best loved bard. This statue was
erected in 1898, the centenary of his birth. Unveiled
at a ti me of I mperial Russian repressi on the very
creation of his likeness was regarded as something of
a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned
up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind
is one of the Warsaws biggest mysteries. Everyone
knows the pi nk buil di ng wi th that great bi g chunk
missing from its facade, but what the devil is it? Built
in 1784 to serve as a travellers inn this mysterious
structure is actually student digs, as well as home
to a branch of the WBK bank and a music shop. The
17th century Camelite Church next door is one of the
original examples of the classicist style to be found
in Poland, and comes topped off with a sea green orb
representing the world.
Next up its the Presidential Palace, that fenced-off
building guarded by stone lions and stern soldiers.
Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of
Stanislaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed
after his death. It passed into the hands various aris-
tocratic families and in the 18th century became the
famed venue for lavish society banquets. None were
more celebrated than the party held to celebrate the
coronation of Stanislaw II August Poniatowski in 1789;
over two million zloty was spent on entertaining 4,000
guests, a sum which must have been unheard of in
those days. But it was money well spent; Poniatowski
would prove to be one of Polands finest monarchs, and
the constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very
grounds, is recognized as Europes first.
When Pol and regai ned i ndependence i n 1918 the
reconstructed building was commandeered to serve
as home to the Pri me Mi nister and his Council of
Ministers. When Herman Goering visited in 1937 he
spent so much time pottering around admiring the
architectural details he was late for his meeting with
the Polish Foreign Minister. It saw more momentous
events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw pact the
Soviet Unions answer to NATO was rati fied within
its walls. In 1989 round table talks between the com-
munists and opposition were held here, paving the way
for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed as
the official home of the Polish president.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie...
Next door its the Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, long re-
garded as one of Warsaws most exclusive hotels. Tread
through the marble lobby and youll learn why; etched
in brass by reception youll find the names of dozens
of celebrities whove stayed here, including Picasso,
Nixon and Dietrich. An even more interesting story
can be found opposite, namely inside ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 13. A superb bygone creation the Hotel
Europejski closed its doors in 2006 following nearly 130
years of service. Built on the site of a guesthouse called
the Gerlach the Europejski was funded by publisher
Aleksander Przezdziecki, and inspired by the designs he
had seen on his world travels. Touched up by architects
like Henryk Marconi it came to be known as Warsaws
first modern hotel. The hotel, which once greeted The
Rolling Stones, Robert Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich and
Indira Ghandi might have closed, but its current owners
have big plans. The lower floors are already occupied by
trendy spots like U Kucharzy, and theres plans afoot to
develop the upper floors into luxury apartments, offices
and a prestigious hotel. Heading back on yoursel f dont
miss a quick look in at ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
15. Now home to the Ministry of Culture and Art this is
where Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska at
a ball held in his honour.
One thing that wont have escaped your notice at this
stage is the preponderance of young people, some of
them carrying books, others staggering out of bars. Yep,
youve guessed it, the university is here, its main campus
lying behind the grand gateway at number 26/28. Dating
from the 17th century the main building, known as Villa
Regia, was remodelled and renovated several times,
before finally being earmarked as the home of Warsaws
new university. Established in 1819 and opened for class
a couple of years later the uni had a tough time under
Russian rule. Closed in retaliation for the 1830 - 31 Up-
rising the university continued to operate underground,
though by 1859 the Tsar had been placated enough to
the extent he rubber stamped the creation of a School
of Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the
roll call the university stands out as the largest in Poland,
as well as one of the best - a title hotly contested with
Krakws Jagiellonian Uni. Notable alumni include former
Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz,
award-winning hack Ryszard Kapusciski, the late presi-
dent Lech Kaczyski and poet Julian Tuwim.
Having failed in your attempt to get a few phone numbers
from the student body cross the street making a line for
the Church of the Holy Cross. Much has been written
about this place, so we wont add anything other than
make sure you put it on your list of unmissables. Finally,
at the end of KP, its Copernicus himself and his statue
has also played its part in Warsaws recent history.
...Krakowskie Przedmiecie
Urbanlegend
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SIGHTSEEING
77
SIGHTSEEING
Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz Monument (Pomnik Adama
Mickiewicza) B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 5.
Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland,
Mickiewicz stands out as Polands greatest literary figure - as
well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppres-
sion. His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by
the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in
1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at
the border, and he never saw his native Poland again.
Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural
icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has been
covered up, including his involvement in strange cults and al-
leged womanising. To this day, even his birthplace remains a hot
source of argument. Some say Nowogrdek (Lithuania), others
say the nearby Zaosie. A champion of freedom, he died during
a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish
legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in
Paris, Mickiewiczs body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Krakw.
His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beauti fully
written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century.
His statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie, and
traces of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible on
the monument.
Charles de Gaulle Monu-
ment (Pomnik Charlesa
de Gaullea) C-4, Rondo de
Gaullea. Charles de Gaulle is
the subject of one of Warsaws
newer monuments. Stri di ng
away from what was once the
Commie party HQ, the monument
is a gift from the French govern-
ment and can be found on (C-4)
Rondo de Gaullea. A resident of
Warsaw in the 1920s, de Gaulle
is a bit of a hero in these parts
for the role he played in The Battle of Warsaw in 1920. With
Europe in turmoil following the aftermath of WWI the Red
Army launched a huge military strike, aimed at enslaving
the rest of Europe. The Bolsheviks expected an easy march
to Paris, but the Poles has other ideas. With the Red Army
just 23km from Warsaw Marshal Pisudski launched a deft
action to split the Bolshevik forces in two and encircle them.
The battle raged from August 13-August 25, 1920, with the
Poles claiming a historic victory in what Woodrow Wilson
went on to describe as the seventh most important battle
in history. The Bolshevik forces were decimated, and Europe
saved. De Gaulle fought with distinction and was awarded the
highest military honour in the country, the Virtuti Militari.
Cr o s s - mo n u me n t Pl .
Pisudskiego. Nine metres high
and made of white granite June
6, 2009 saw the unveiling of gi-
ant cross on pl. Pisudskiego. It
was here that Pope John Paul II
returned to Warsaw for the first
time after being made pope, and
it was also on this spot a candlelit
vigil was held when news first
broke of his death. The inscrip-
tion is taken from his sermon and
reads: Let your spirit come down and renew the face of earth,
this earth. Unveiled by Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz
Waltz and Archbishop Kazimierz Nycz, the towering monu-
ment was designed by Jerzy Mierzwiaka, Marek Kuciski
and Natalia Wilczak.
Ignacy Paderewski G- 4, Park Ujazdowski. Born in
Kurywka in 1860 Paderewski is fondly remembered as a
politican, patriot and musician. Having entered the Warsaw
Conservatorium at the age of 12 he worked as a piano tutor
after graduation. The death of his wife, just a year after they
married, spurred him to commit his life to music and in 1887
he made his public debut in Vienna. His talent was obvious
and his growing popularity saw him storm both Europe and the
States, not just as a pianist, but a masterful composer as well.
He was based in Paris during WWI and it was during this time
he became actively involved in politics, becoming spokesman
for the Polish National Committee. With the end of the war he
sought a return to his homeland where, having played a key role
in the Wielkopolska Uprising (which saw Pozna merged into
the newly reformed Polish state), he was elected Polands third
ever prime minister. It was he who signed for Polands part in
the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, though his fall from grace was just
around the corner. Many thought he had sold Poland short and
in the face of growing public discontent he resigned from office
in December 1919. A short stint as Polands representative in
the League of Nations followed before he opted to resume his
musical career. Aside from being a skilled musician, the mop
haired Paderewski was also a popular public speaker, known for
his devastating wit. One anecdote recalls him being introduced
to a polo player with the words: You are both leaders in your
spheres, though the spheres are very different. Not one to miss
a beat Paderewski deadpanned Not so very different, you are a
dear soul who plays polo, and I am a poor Pole who plays solo.
During WWII he became an eminent figure in the London based
exiled Polish Parliament, though died in 1941 with the country
of his birth still under occupation.
Jzef Pi sudski Monu-
ment (Pomni k Jzef a
Pi sudski ego) F- 2, Pl .
Pisudskiego. Casting a steely
gaze over the square named in
his honour is a gloomy looking
Field Marshal Pisudski, a man
many Pol es hol d responsibl e
for winning the country its inde-
pendence in 1918. Regarded
as a political and military hero
this man did more than most to
free Poland from the shackles of
Russian control; his early years saw him imprisoned in Siberia
after being wrongfully convicted of plotting to assassinate
the Tsar, though his finest hour undoubtedly came in 1920
when he beat off the Bolshevik hordes at the gates of War-
saw, inadvertently saving a battered post-war Europe from
being flooded by the rampant Soviets. Unveiled in 1995 this
particular monument is the work of Tadeusz odziany, and
Pisudski fans can view another such monument to the man
on ul. Belwederska.
King Sigismunds Col -
umn (Kolumna Krla Zyg-
munta) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy.
Built in honour of the man who
made Warsaw the capi tal of
Poland, the column was erect-
ed back in 1664 and stands
twenty two metres high. During
the war the column collapsed
under bombardment and the
original now lies close to the
Royal Castle (and is considered
lucky to touch). The figure of
Sigismund survived and the new column was proudly re-
erected in 1949.
Perched in the waters of the Wisa between the Ponia-
towski and azienkowski bridges (H-3) stands one of the
more unusual Warsaw constructions. Resembling an
object that wouldnt look out of place in a 1960s sci-fi
TV series, Gruba Kaka (Fat Katie) is a familiar sight to
most Varsovians but dont expect a clear answer if you
ask the average local what it actually is or what purpose it
serves. Thankfully, we can now reveal to our readers the
truth about the most obese thing on the river!
Built in 1964, with a full renovation and upgrade taking
place in 2004, the rotund building stands within the
main current of the river and supplies water to the Praga
pumping station as well as supplementing the supply to
the city centre. The system itself is a rather interesting
one which involves raising water from between 4-8
metres below the riverbed via a system of 15 drainage
pipes. Every day 90-120,000 cubic metres of water flow
through the installation to the citys pumping stations.
The idea was conceived by the engineer Wodzimierz
Skoraczewski in 1959 and was considered so innovative
that throughout the world experts still refer to it as the
Warsaw intake method. The pipes which syphon the wa-
ter to the pumping stations are housed in an underwater
tunnel which also serves as the main route to work for
the buildings employees. The citizens of Warsaw were
asked to suggested names for the installation and thus
it became Gruba Kaka!
Monitoring the purity levels of the water is one of the
most important jobs to be carried out on the installation
and in order to supervise this the authorities employ a
team of specialised employees - seven highly sensitive
freshwater clams, which are connected to a state of the
art computerised system. If at any point three or more
clams close simultaneously it means that pollution levels
of the river have gone beyond acceptable levels. The
clams are replaced every three months, not because
the water board doesnt want to give them a proper job
contract, but because they acclimatise to the conditions
and become less sensitive over time.
This year saw the premiere of a short 3D film, simply
entitled Gruba Kaka, by the young director Julia Peka.
The film documents the history of the building and looks
at the crucial role played by the heroic clams in saving the
city from ecological catastrophe! Also keep an eye out for
Gruba Kakas svelte young boyfriend, the dredger Chudy
Wojtek (Skinny Wojtek), who circles the area keeping the
riverbed in check.
Gruba Kaka
Augsburg Lutheran Cemetery (Cmentarz
ewangelicko-augsburski) D-2, ul. Mynarska
54/56/58. Designed by Szymon Bogumi Zug in 1792
this treasure contains the elaborate tombs of countless
movers and shakers. Those interred include Samuel
Bogumi Linde - author of Polands first dictionary - and
Polands version of the Willie Wonka family: the Wedels.
Highlights include a cast iron chapel dating from 1821.
Calvinist Reformed Cemetery (Cmentarz
ewangelicko-reformowany) D-2, ul. ytnia 42,
tel. (+48) 22 632 03 30. As well as containing the
remains of writer Stefan eromski, this cemetery is also
the resting place of the youngest victim of Pawiak Prison
and the then Gestapo regime, Kaj Silversjold aged six
months. Be sure to check out the Teutonic style inscrip-
tions on some of the graves. Looming over it all is the
Kronenburg mausoleum, a striking necropolis built for
one of Warsaws most famed industrialists. Q Open
08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
Italian Military Cemetery (Cmentarz onierzy
Woskich) ul. Marymoncka (Bielany). Originally
established in 1926 the Italian cemetery holds the
bodies of 868 soldiers killed on Polish territory during
WWI, and a further 1,415 killed during the course of
WWII. Maintained by the Italian Embassy the cemetery
features an entry gate complete with legionnaire shields,
and a central avenue leading to a grandiose monument.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Northern Cemetery (Cmentarz Komunalny
Pnocny) ul. Wycickiego 14 (Bielany), tel. (+48)
22 834 48 08. One of Europes largest cemeteries, and
a relatively new addition to the city. Created in 1973 this
vast graveyard contains over 135,000 graves, including
those of poet Edward Stachura, German WWII casual-
ties, and the bodies of those killed in Polands biggest
air disaster - the 1980 LOT plane crash just outside the
city limits. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.
Powzki Catholic Cemetery (Cmentarz
Powzki) D-1, ul. Powzkowska 14, tel. (+48) 22
838 55 25. Warsaws biggest, oldest and most beauti-
ful cemetery. Famous corpses include the poet Leopold
Staff, aviators wirko and Wigura, and Nobel prize
winner Wadysaw Reymont. It also contains the grave
of Stefan Starzyski, the mayor of Warsaw at the time
of the German invasion. His body was never recovered
after he was detained by the Gestapo. Vast areas of
the cemetery are taken up by Home Army soldiers killed
during the Uprising. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00.
Soviet War Cemetery (Cmentarz Mauzoleum
onierzy Radzieckich) E-6, Al. wirki i Wigury
10. Dominated by a huge needle-like monument this
is one of the first Warsaw landmarks seen on the way
from the airport. The towering monument features some
interesting socialist reliefs depicting Red Army troops
liberating Polish civilians, and the inscription reads To
the memory of the soldiers lost in the liberation of Poland
1944-1945. Mass graves containing the remains of
20,000 soldiers flank each side of the memorial.
Warsaw Upri si ng Cemetery (Cmentarz
Powstacw Warszawy) ul. Wolska 174/176
(Wola). Approximately 40,000 participants in the 44 Upris-
ing are buried here, their resting places marked with wood
graves and red and white sashes. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00.
Cemeteries
78
SIGHTSEEING
79
SIGHTSEEING
Ni col aus Coper ni cus
Monument (Pomni k
Mikoaja Kopernika) C-3,
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie.
The founder of modern as-
tronomy. A sheltered academic,
he made his observations a
century before the invention
of the telescope and without
help or guidance. His book De
Revolutionibus (1543) posited
that the earth rotated on its axis
once a day, travelled around the
sun once a year, and that mans
place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may seem obvious
today, but it was an utterly radical idea at the time.
Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt at
the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus
on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no
turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our
galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this mans legacy.
The statue itsel f was built in 1830 and has seen its fair
share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a bronze
plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a
German. In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski ducked
the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the
Nazis removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a
few other surrounding monuments for good measure. The
statue was recovered in the years following the war, while
Dawidowski has entered Polish folklore as a result of his
bravery. The plaque at the centre of the storm is currently
held in Warsaws History Museum.
Nike B-2, near Pl. Zamkowy (Trasa W-Z scarp). Just before
hitting the WZ tunnel that rumbles below the old town visitors
cant fail but see a giant cast iron statue of Nike: as in the Greek
Goddess of Victory, not the shoe. Standing with sword raised
aloft this noble structure is actually officially named Monument
to the Heroes of Warsaw 1939-1945, and remembers the
thousands of locals who fought against - and died under - Nazi
rule. The statue made its debut in 1964, originally standing on
pl. Teatralny. This was before there was any official memorial
to the Warsaw Uprising, and as such Nike became the favoured
assembly point for Polish veterans, as well as student agitators
in later years. In 1999 Pl. Teatralny underwent a well-deserved
facelift and the fearsome Nike found herself forklifted over to
her current spot where she stands with a watchful eye over the
cars and buses that gasp to-and-fro.
Syrena. The mermaid is the
symbol of Warsaw, and as
such youll find her likeness on
everything from buses to beer
cans. The legend dates to the
time of Prince Kazimierz, who
allegedly got lost while on a
hunting expedition in the area
that is now Warsaw. Behold, a
mermaid transpired from the
marshland, and gui ded the
hapless prince to safety by
firing burning arrows. Firmly
established as an icon of Warsaw youll find three mermaid
statues in Warsaw, specifically on (C-1), Old Town Square,
(D-2), witokrzyski Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa. The
original mermaid - or syrena in local parlance - stands in
the Historical Museum, and was crafted from bronze by the
expert hand of Ludwika Nitschowa. Modelling for her was
actress Krystyna Krahelska, who was mortally injured on
the first day of the Uprising while working as a field nurse.
Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier (Grb Niezna-
nego onierza) B-3, Pl.
Pisudskiego. The only sur-
viving part of the destroyed
Saxon Palace. The palace was
constructed during the 17th
century though the tomb was
not added to the complex until
1925. Eerily, the tomb was the
only part of the structure to
survi ve being dynami ted by
the Nazis. The ashes of unknown soldiers from WWII have
been fittingly added.
To Those Deported and Murdered in the East
(Pomnik Polegym i Pomordowanym na Wschodzie)
E-1, Intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Mura-
nowska. Dating from 1995, and designed by Maksymilian
Biskupski, this monument remembers the victims of Soviet
aggression and all those deported to the wastes of Siberia.
Museums
Warsaw now has an ever more impressive selection of
museums dotted around and even older ones are getting
facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century.
There are still instances of poor or no English language ex-
planations but these are becoming less common. Without
doubt the big three places on your list should be the Uprising
Museum which charts the defining period in the history of
modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre which is the
citys most interactive and visitor friendly museum and the
Chopin Museum which is both interesting and Warsaws best
example of a modern museum experience. Most museums
listed present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of
which can be found in our culture and events section.
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature (Muze-
um Literatury im. Adama Mickiewicza) B-1, Rynek
Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.
muzeumliteratury.pl. Find out about the smart Alec who
inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as aving a number
of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with
Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with
other leading Polish writers. If Polish writers are your bag be
sure to check out the three other related sites that are part
of the citys Museum of Literature and celebrate historic
authors: the Wadysaw Broniewski Museum of Literature
at ul. J. Dbrowskiego 51 (F-6), the Andrzej Strug Museum
of Literature at Al. Niepodlegoci 210/10a (F-4) and the
Maria Dbrowska Museum of Literature at ul. Polna 40/31
(F-4). Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat and every last Sun of the month.
Admission 6/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibit only.
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
B-3, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.
ethnomuseum.pl. Tragically overlooked by far too many
visitors to Warsaw (who cant see past World War II and
communism) this is a joy of a museum that showcases and
highlights all thats best about Polands cultural heritage.
There are costumes, handicrafts, furniture, Polish inventions,
art, photographs; most of it is beautifully presented in what
is a superb building. There are also exhibitions of African
and Australasian ethnographic art, and the museum is one
of the citys most active, putting on all sorts of temporary
exhibitions and organising hands-on events and workshops.
Directors of Warsaws other museums might want to come
and take notes. Just brilliant, and unquestionably essential.
Tadeusz Kociuszko Monument A/B-3, Pl. Za
elazn Bram. History produces few men like Tadeusz
Kociuszko (1746-1817). Kociuszkos highest ideal was
freedom, and he used his own to try and secure it for all
those less fortunate. In one country - Poland - he failed
and is remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked
the land. In another country - America - he succeeded,
and yet has been almost completely forgotten. A monu-
ment to the man was unveiled in November 2010 in the
presence of the Polish President and the US Ambassa-
dor. The monument is an exact copy of one in Washington
by sculptor Antoni Popiel given to Americans on behalf
of the Polish nation. At its unveiling outside of the White
House in 1910 the promise was made to erect a copy
in Poland if ever the country regained its independence.
The man himsel f was educated in Warsaw and Paris
during which time Poland was partitioned for the first
time in 1772. Kociuszko found himself attracted to the
American fight for independence and arrived in Phila-
delphia aged 30. Upon arrival he read the Declaration
of Independence and found himself so inspired and in
concert with its ideology that he determined to meet the
man who wrote it, Thomas Jefferson. The two men later
began a lifelong friendship which became so binding that
Kociuszko made Jefferson the executor of his will. Jef-
ferson was to call Kociuszko the purest son of liberty
among you all that I have ever known, and of that liberty
which is to go to all, not to the few or the rich alone.
I t was as a col onel i n the engi neeri ng corps that
Kociuszko distinguished himself and it was his choice
of Bemis Heights as the place to engage the British that
was to become the decisive turning point of the northern
campaign - the Battle of Saratoga in October 1777. The
victory at Saratoga won the northern campaign and the
alliance of the French as Louis XVI officially recognised
America as an independent country. Kociuszko was then
charged with fortifying West Point, New York, where he
built an impenetrable fortress that would later become
Americas premier military academy. Rewarded with
citizenship, the rank of Brigadier General and land near
Columbus, Ohio, at the end of hostilities, Kociuszko found
himself instead drawn back to Poland whose aggressive
neighbours continued to threaten its sovereignty.
Having first freed the serfs on his own estate back in
Poland, Kociuszko once again returned to the military.
On May 3, 1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
created the first constitution in modern Europe (second
in the world after America), which enacted widespread
reforms and four days later the Russian army crossed
the border triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792.
Kociuszko again distinguished himsel f in battle and
became regarded as Polands leading military strategist
having never been defeated. However the neighbouring
powers further reduced the power and size of Poland
through the Second Partition of Poland (January 21,
1793) leaving Kociuszko to resolve that the Poles were
going to have to drive their oppressors out and to regain
their independence.
What followed came to be known as the Kociuszko Up-
rising. Kociuszko, using his experience of the American
war of Independence, led his ill-equipped peasant army
to victory over the Russian army at Racawice. The
ultimate defeat of Poland resulted in the Third Partition
of Poland (October 24th, 1795) and Poland disappeared
from the map of Europe for the next 123 years. Read
more about the man in our feature online.
Kociuszko Monument
The wonder full y named
Stanisaw II August Pon-
i atowski ( bor n Count
Stanisaw Antoni Poni -
atowski ) was the l ast
Ki ng and Grand Duke
of t he Pol i sh- Li t hua-
ni an Commonweal t h
(1764-95). Hi s of fi ci al
ti tl e was, memorabl y,
Stanisaw August, by
the grace of God and
the will of the people
King of Poland, Grand
Duke of Lithuania and
Duke of Rutheni a,
Prussia, Masovia, Samogitia, Kiev, Volhynia,
Podolia, Podlasie, Livonia, Smolensk, Severia
and Chernihiv.
Born in Wolcyn (which today is in Belarus) in 1732,
Poniatowski first rose to prominence as an orator in the
nascent Polish parliament, the Sejm. Appointed ambas-
sador of Saxony to the court of Catherine the Great in
St. Petersburg in 1755, the tall, dashing Poniatowski
quickly became a regular lover of the insatiable Russian
Empress. When the Polish King August II died in 1763, it
was with Russian support that Poniatowski was elected
king, at the age of 32.
Opposed from the start by large numbers of the Pol-
ish nobility, on first appearances Poniatowskis three
decades on the throne do not look all that impressive.
He was powerless to prevent the first partition of the
Commonwealth in 1772 and relied heavily for much of
his reign on Russian patronage.
Yet he is remembered most for his championing of the
1791 Polish-Lithuanian Constitution: Europes first and
the worlds second (the United States had enacted the
first, in 1788) codified constitution. It greatly reduced the
power of the nobility, and introduced the idea of equality
amongst all citizens of the Commonwealth: noblemen,
townsfolk and peasants. Alas, the Commonwealth was
about to crumble, and the constitution came far too
late to save it.
Appall ed, the Polish nobili ty, under the flag of the
Targowi ca Federation and allied wi th Russian nobl es
keen to prevent similar i deas of equali ty infil trating
into Russia, launched a full scal e war (known, some-
what incorrectly, as the Polish-Russian War of 1791-2)
on Poniatowski. Betrayed by Prussia (whi ch had until
then been a keen all y), Poniatowski was defeated in
1792 and the consti tution expunged from the statue
book. The status quo ante-bellum was restored, and
Poniatowski managed to cling on as King until 1795
when the final parti tion of the Commonweal th forced
hi m to abdi cate. He fl ed to St. Petersburg, where
he li ved at the grace of Catheri ne until he di ed i n
1798. He was first buri ed at the Catholi c Church of
St. Catherine in St. Petersburg, his remains being
transferred to a church at Woczyn in 1938. In 1995,
in belated recogni tion of his rol e in creating the 1791
consti tution, he was formall y reburi ed at St. Johns
Cathedral in Warsaw.
Stanislaw Poniatowski
80
SIGHTSEEING
81
SIGHTSEEING
Unfortunately, at the moment major renovations (to make
the place even better) are underway and the permanent
exhibit is closed. In the meantime, however, the museum is
still open and you can find out what temporary exhibitions and
events are taking place by checking their website. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z, family ticket
20z. Sat free.
Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture and the Decora-
tive Arts (Galeria Malarstwa, Rzeby i Sztuki
Zdobniczej) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), tel.
(+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. The
east wing of the Royal Castles main floor is now home to
a permanent exhibition of various works of art that had
formerly been spread throughout the property, including
two works by Rembrandt: The Girl in a Picture Frame and
The Scholar at the Lectern. Both paintings were part of
a major donation of 37 works of art given by Countess
Karolina Lanckoroska, a Polish resistance fighter and
concentration camp survivor who, upon Polands return to
independence in 1989, bequeathed her familys art col-
lection to the nation. The Castle has done an impressive
job of staging the artworks, with muted walls and focused
lighting keeping all the attention on the various portraits
of 16th and 17th century royalty like Marie Antoinette and
still li fe paintings of flower-filled bounties. Theres also a
room devoted to porcelain, tapestries and glassware from
the era. The Castles free admission on Sundays have seen
the new gallery overrun with visitors, so serious art lovers
will want to pay for the chance to wander at a less harried
pace. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15z, family
ticket 10z per person. Sun free.
Historical Museum of Warsaw (Muzeum His-
toryczne Miasta Warszawy) B-1, Rynek Starego
Miasta 28- 42, tel. (+48) 22 635 16 25, www.mhw.
pl. One of our favourite museums, The Historical Museum
of Warsaw has been offline for several issues now but is
easing into a return after months of renovations, which will
continue to take place over the next several years. What
can you see so far? Not very much as the main floor is
closed for overhaul. One aspect not to be missed, however,
is the film "Warsaw Will Remember" in the museums cin-
ema, which will be available again starting February 12th.
The film addresses the war years from 1939-1945 and the
rebuilding of the city. The film is shown Tue at 11:00 and
12:00, Wed-Fri at 10:00 and 12:00, and Sat and Sun at
12:00 and 14:00 and lasts 20 minutes (in French, Italian
German and Spanish by request). Film ickets are 10/5z
(and the entrance for the film is from Rynek Starego Miasta
40) while general museum admission is 10/7zl. Thursday,
however, are free. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Mu s e u m o f I n d e p e n d e n c e ( Mu z e u m
Niepodlegoci) B-2, Al. Solidarnoci 62, tel. (+48)
22 826 90 91, www.muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl. Rather
ironically, the museum that charts Polands struggle for
freedom was home to the Lenin Museum during communist
rule. Celebrating Polish patriotism, the museum covers all
the key dates of Polish history, including the 1794 Kociuszko
Uprising, the 19th century insurrections, Pisudskis return
to Poland, WWII and the rise of Solidarity (though this last
exhibit is currently unavailable). Among the 48,000 exhibits
are objects recovered from WWII concentration camps, and
some wonderful displays of Socialist Realist artwork. QOpen
12:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 8/5z. Thu free.
Museum of John Paul II Collection (Muzeum Kole-
kcji im. Jana Pawa II) A-2, Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. (+48)
22 620 27 25, www.muzeummalarstwa.pl. This is exactly
the kind of overlooked museum that houses gems tourists
will consider themselves lucky to stumble upon. In 1986
Janina and Zbigniew Carroll-Porczynski gifted the country
with 400 paintings and sculptures acquired through years
of dabbling in Western European art. The Carroll-Porczynskis
themselves are an interesting duo - she was sent to Sibera
in 1940, then matriculated to Rhodesia and England where
she obtained several degrees while he was part of the Home
Army and sent to Pawiak Prison, Auschwitz and Buchenwald
before going to England and getting a PhD. Their collection
is now housed in the historical Bank of Poland building and
includes a unicorn sculpture by Salvador Dali, a painting of
Renoirs son Pierre, an idyllic farm scene by Van Gogh, the
head of John the Baptist by Rodinthe mind boggles at the
list of noted artists housed here. The Banks soaring rotunda
is home to over 80 self-portraits, and the first floor houses
works of a more religious nature. One of the most stunning is
Wojciech Gersons Baptism of Lithuania, a massive painting
that represents Lithuanias baptism into Christianity. A lack
of surly museum maids and a well-marked route make the
JPII museum even more enjoyable.QThe museum generally
is open only by prior arrangement. It is free of charge and
arrangements can be made by calling (+48) 22 620 21 82
or (+48) 22 620 27 25.
Museum of Polish Peoples Movement (Muze-
um Historii Polskiego Ruchu Ludowego) Al.
Wilanowska 204 (Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22 843 38 76,
www.mhprl.pl. Set in a neo-Renaissance villa designed by
Italian-born Mary Lanci the Museum of the Polish Peoples
Movement is an absolute must for museum diehards - just
try to find any other English-speaker whos been here (though
recently the museum has added some English brochures to
help non-Polish visitors). As the title suggests, everything
here is focused on Polish people/peasants, with the oldest
exhibit being a 17th century manuscript approved by King
Jan III Sobieski granting serfs a tax reduction. Most of these
scrolls, documents and papers will be lost on the foreign
visitor; making more sense are the printed materials, which
include election posters from the interwar years, as well as
decrees, ration cards and purchase vouchers supplied by the
occupying Nazis during WWII. Times under communism are
particularly well represented, and visitors will see a number
of stirring Soviet chic posters encouraging hard work and
high production. Very Socialist Paradise indeed.
Patriotism plays a large part in understanding this oddity,
and art fans will be pleased to find a series of paintings
depicting peasants in full battle, including of course Tadeusz
Kociuszko doing his bit against the Russkies. Stamps,
flags, medals and caricatures, theyre all here, as well as a
great little war-themed section which presents bayonets,
armbands worn by peasant fighters during WWII, first aid
kits and a typewriter and printing contraption used in the
creation of subversive press. Q Open 08:30 - 15:30. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission 2/1z. Thu free.
Museum of Priest Jerzy Popieuszko (Muzeum
Bogosawionego Ks. Jerzego Popieuszki) ul.
Kardynaa Stanisawa Hozjusza 2 (oliborz), tel. (+48) 22
561 00 56, www.popieluszko.net.pl. Youd probably think a
museum honouring a priest doesnt sound like much fun, and
indeed this place really isnt. However, it is a very decent detour
if you happen to be in the oliborz area, and thats because
Father Jerzy was no ordinary priest. Popieuszko came to na-
tional attention in the early1980s for his fierce anti-communist
rhetoric, and with close ties to Radio Free Europe and Solidarity
it wasnt long till he ran afoul of the internal security services.
Presi denti al Pal ace C- 2, ul . Krakowski e
Przedmiecie 46/48. If pre-war Warsaw was considered
the Paris of the East then Krakowskie Przedmieie would
have been its Champs Elysees, its importance recognized
by the number of palaces, institutions, monuments and
churches that line it. Of those none are more important than
the Presidential Palace at number 46/48, that mysterious
fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern looking
soldiers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of
Stanisaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed after
his death. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic
families and in the 18th century became famed for its ban-
quets - the most extravagant being held to commemorate
the coronation of Stanisaw II August Poniatowski in 1789;
over two million zoty was spent entertaining the 4,000
guests. Poniatowski was to prove one of the nations finest
monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on
these very grounds, is recognized as Europes first - and
only the second in the world. A statue of Poniatowskis
brother, himself a military hero, was added to in 1965. Of its
residents none were more eccentric than General Zajczek,
a one legged Duke who was carried around in his armchair
by a team of simpering servants. His wife, an ageless look-
ing maiden, attributed her eternal youth to a strict diet that
banned any hot meals, and a rigorous set of guidelines that
included having pots of ice placed under her bed and freezing
cold baths. After 1818 it became the seat of the Viceroy of
the Polish Kingdom, and its halls entertained many a visiting
Tsar. In 1852 calamity struck and the palace was burned to
the ground. Reconstructed by Alfons Kropiwnicki the rebuilt
structure served as a home to the Agricultural Society, and
in 1879 Jan Matejkos epic painting The Battle of Grunwald
was put on display to an appreciative Warsaw public. Exten-
sively remodelled throughout the course of history one of its
biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century
when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel
Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 it
was commandeered to serve as home of the Prime Minister
and his Council of Ministers. When Herman Goering visited
in 1937 he spent so much time pottering around admiring
the architectural details he was late for his appointment with
the Polish Foreign Minister. Amazingly it survived both the
1939 Siege of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years
later, though that did little to stop the authorities employing
Antoni Brusche and Antoni Jawornicki to give it a further
facelift. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time
when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Unions answer to NATO
- was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as
the official home of the Polish president, which is exactly
why youll find streams of limos heading in and out, and
square jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who
strays too close. Interestingly enough, however, is the fact
that current president Bronisaw Komorowski does not live
there; instead he has chosen to reside at Belweder Palace
next to azienki Park.
Presidential Palace
Multimedia Fountain
Park (Multimedialny
Park Fontann) B-1,
Skwer im. I Dywizji Pan-
cernej, www.estrada.
com.pl. This tourist at-
tracti on was opened i n
May 2011 as part of the
city of Warsaws ongoing
attempt to increase the
citys number of cultural
and touri st attracti ons
and has been met wi th
wi despread accl ai m and approval. Located i n the
Podzamcze district a short walk to the north of the old
town, the Multimedia Fountain Park as it is known is a
visual delight combining music, light and, as the name
suggests, fountains.
Built on the site of a derelict concrete pond, the fountain
is part of a plan to revitalize this central Warsaw district
by attracting visitors from the tourist trail close by and
cost over 11 million PLN to create. Featuring 367 nozzles
which are capable of firing water 800 cubic metres of
water 25m into the air over the rebuilt, 3,000 square
metre pond, the stunning visual show is provided by the
synchronisation of 295 LED RGB lights combined with a
laser projector with the fountain. Shows last about 30
minutes and include sets where the fountains are lit in
a myriad of colours or where lasers create visual effects
such as the Warsaw symbol of Syrena (the Mermaid)
moving through the water. By far the most impressive
part of the show is where a series of films and images
are projected onto a wall of water created by the spray
from the fountains. Youll see films following themes such
as Chopins Warsaw, Modern Warsaw or Legends of
Warsaw projected with remarkable clarity onto this wall
of water while pieces of music ranging from Chopin to
Lady Gaga blast from the surrounding speakers.
The shows have proved so popular that visitors are
warned to take up a position as early as possible on the
banked viewing terraces in order to get the best views
and early demand resulted in the number of shows
being increased to satisfy the large numbers of locals
and foreign tourists wanting to experience the show. We
thoroughly recommend it and while it is hardly the Bel-
lagio show from Vegas it is definitely an enjoyable way to
spend time after dining in the old town or as a starting
point to the evening ahead. Q Shows take place Friday
and Saturday nights at 21:30.
Multimedia Fountain Park
Photo: Micha Radwaski
Photo: Micha Radwaski
82
SIGHTSEEING
83
SIGHTSEEING
In 1984, with Poland in political chaos, they decided to get rid
of him altogether. A car accident was set up for this purpose,
though Popieuszko somehow survived unscathed. Six days
later he was abducted, beaten and murdered, his corpse
dumped in a reservoir. His funeral drew a crowd of 250,000
mourners and made headlines the world over. Today the
basement of his former parish church has been turned into a
museum to remember not just his life, but the whole struggle
for post-war freedom. Newssheets printed by the underground,
banners from the Solidarity strikes and pictures of the funeral
are among the many items on display, as are the clothes he
was wearing when he was kidnapped. Particularly poignant is
a curved wall, its bricks inscribed with the names of martyrs
dealt with by security services between 1981 and 1989.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission free. Donations welcome.
Museum of Sports and Tourism (Muzeum Sportu
i Turystyki) ul. Wybrzee Gdyskie 4 (oliborz), tel.
(+48) 22 560 37 80, www.muzeumsportu.waw.pl. Not
long back museums in Poland were largely dusty affairs with
stupid hours and hawk-like curators ensuring fingers and
noses were kept well away from the glass. Well heres the
new face of sightseeing, a spanking new glass building that
could well have been sent down from space. Cynics might
say a seven floor Olympic Centre is largely wasted on the
Poles, a nation which hasnt exactly dominated the planet
in the field of sport. This place is here to prove the naysay-
ers wrong, with over 47,000 exhibits testifying to Polands
contribution to recreation.
The exhibition starts off with a passing glance at Ancient
Greece, with Greco busts and murals celebrating the early
pioneers of games, before moving off in a more patriotic
direction and leaning towards the more Polski side of things.
Included are old penny farthing bicycles as well as trophies
and memorabilia from the Warsaw Rowing Association, ap-
parently the oldest sports organization in town.
Split into various zones (inter-war years, 70s glory years, Salt
Lake City etc), this is more than just a thorough look at Polish
sport, its the final word. Film reels and sound effects comple-
ment often hilarious pictures (mustachioed supermen from
bygone times triumphantly lifting dumbbells). However this is no
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Turysty-
ki) B-4, Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance
from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.
warsawtour.pl. This central tourist information office
is inside the Palace of Culture (if you exit central station
on the Zote Tarasy shopping complex side and cross
over the road youll see it). Inside you can choose from
a series of guides as well as buy some souvenir books
and gifts. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Turysty-
ki) ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 194
31, www.warsawtour.pl. Located in the arrivals hall of
the new part of the airport, the point is small but has all
the necessary guides and maps you might need including
In Your Pockets. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Tu-
rystyki) B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 19/21/21a,
tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Find
this point on the Market Square of Old Town where you
can pick up maps, guides, book tours and buy gifts and
souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Information
Palmiry - The National Memorial Museum
(Muzeum - Miejsce Pamici Palmiry) Palmiry,
tel. (+48) 22 720 81 14, www.palmiry.mhw.pl. This
brand new and highly recommended museum in the
forest outside Warsaw significantly ups the standard
for how a small exhibit can pack a huge punch. A little
history: during World War II the forests of Palmiry and
Kampinos became a refuge for those fleeing the destruc-
tion in Warsaw (many Home Army soldiers regrouped
in the woods). It also became the site for 21 separate
mass executions performed by German soldiers against
1,700 Poles and Jews, many of whom were academic and
cultural figures. Inside this well-organized modern block
visitors will see how the Poles used the forest for train-
ing and hiding weapons, and how the Germans turned
their refuge into a killing field. Information boards clearly
explain what happened in the forest (these are some of
the best English translations weve seen) and displays
include exhumed items like documents and photos, even
sections of trees with ammunition still buried in their
bark. A video re-enacts how German soldiers system-
atically marched civilians to their deaths, and the tour
ends with an endless audio loop that reads the names
of the victims. Outside visitors will see a giant cemetery
of marked and unmarked crosses (the museum also
describes the exhumation process that took place in
the forest) dedicated to the victims. While the museum
is mainly dedicated to what happened in the forests
during World War II it also makes note of the fact that
Poles have taken to these woods during the Kosciuszko
Uprising in 1794, the November Uprising in 1831 and
the January Uprising in 1863. Getting to the museum
from Warsaw involves a subway trip that connects to
a slightly stomach-churning 45-minute bus ride on the
800 bus, which unfortunately only runs during holidays.
Instead catch the PKS bus from Warszawa Zachodnia
Bus Station Mon-Sat at 11:00 (direction: Mawa), and
Sun at 12:15 (direction: uromin). Or grab the PKS bus
PKS from Dworzec Gdaski, which departs at 10:00 and
goes every day (direction: Warszawa Zakroczym). QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission free.
Palmiry
circus sideshow, and it soon becomes clear that the Poles have
a proud and distinguished history across all fields, something
apparent in the Olympic Hall of Fame which features scores of
medals. Heroes such as ex Man City legend Kazimierz Deyna
and ski champ Adam Maysz are all celebrated, and the vast
collection even has room for a kayak once used by Pope John
Paul II to row around the Mazurian Lakes. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 10/6z. Sat free.
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.
pl. Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war build-
ing, Warsaws National Museum has thankfully just reopened
after a long renovation that has seen many changes includ-
ing the renovation of the museums main courtyard, a major
rearrangement of the permanent galleries and an impressive
upcoming schedule of temporary exhibits. Considering the
new overhaul this museum is a must for anyone visiting the
city. Dating from 1862 and operating under its current name
since 1916, theres a huge array of permanent exhibitions and
antiquities. Visitors will find a wealth of delightful 15th-century
Dutch and Flemish paintings in the Gallery of Old European
Paintings and several galleries of Polish art from the 16th
century onwards, including some of the best work by the
countrys leading names in art - Chemoski and Matejko to
name a few. A new gallery dedicated to works from the 20th
and 21st centuries is well worth a look for fans of more recent
pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
Ticket prices: permanent exhibitions 15/10z, entire museum
20/15z. Family ticket: 40z permanent exhibits, 50z entire
museum. Tue free for permanent exhibition. Last entrance
45 minutes before closing.
Polish Army Museum (Muzeum Wojska Pol-
skiego) C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 629
52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. The chronological history of
the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms.
Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings
pack this museum, though the scarcity of English-language
explanations mean youll need to hire an English-speaking
guide to get the most out of the place. The room at the end
is dedicated to Polands role in WWII, with specific empha-
sis on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the
museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of
20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles,
aircraft and rocket launchers. Note that visitors can see the
Transport Aircraft AN26 (or similar machines) for a 2z fee.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z,
Sun free. Tours with audioguide 17/10z.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Wspczesnej Zamek
Ujazdowski) G- 4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628
64 08, www.csw.art.pl. Completed in a baroque style in
1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII. Though the
original walls and foundations remained structurally sound
the communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of
the building with the intention of building a military theatre on
the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw Ujaz-
dowski rebuilt following its original style. Used as a military
hospital in the years leading up to the war, it now has three
large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the very best
of contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and
the ugly, featuring the work of Polands leading contemporary
artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also
houses a very good bookshop and a caf. QOpen 12:00
- 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
Royal Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-2, Pl.
Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-
krolewski.pl. More a palace than a castle, this building
is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble
at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the
furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies
such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for
rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled
Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has
been the residence of Polish kings, then of the president
and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will
take you through the Kings apartments and chambers,
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish mo-
ments. Maps on the wall reflect Polands greatest days,
when it stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The
apartments of Jzef Poniatowski have recently been
opened to the public, though unfortunately none of the
accompany descriptions are in English. The rooms are
still a worthwhile part of the tour, if for no other reason
than to see the Princes surprisingly cerulean bedroom
and grand collection of paintings. Some of the halls
are reputed to be intermittently haunted by a white
lady. According to l egend her appearance si gnals
imminent disaster. The nearby chapel boasts an urn
containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter
Tadeusz Kocuiszko. Next on the tour, the Houses of
Parliament. Last but not least, the opulent Great As-
sembly Hall has so much gold stuck to the walls its
hard to resist the temptation to scratch some off - just
a bit, they wouldnt notice. Behave or get accosted by
vigilant wardens and enjoy the views across the river to
the Praga district instead. For those interested in the
Castles reconstruction the basement exhibition From
Destruction to Reconstruction details the buildings
resurrection after World War II rendered the place a pile
of rubble. Note that this exhibition is free, so those not
willing to spring for a ticket for the entire tour can still
visit this section of the Castle. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 1
hour before closing. Admission 22/15z, family ticket 14z
per person. Sun free. Poniatowski apartments 14/7zl,
family ticket 6zl per person. Sun free. Guides in English
110z, audioguides 17/12z.
Royal Castle
84
SIGHTSEEING
85
PALACE OF CULTURE & SCIENCE
Follow POLANDIYP on
Palace of Culture and Science (Paac Kultury
i Nauki) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00,
www.pkin.pl. Dont let the name fool you - this is not the
cultural hub of Warsaw. That said, however long youre in the
city for this is a must-see to experience Soviet Warsaw. For
all the aggressive westernisation that has overcome Warsaw,
the four decades of communism have yet to be completely
erased from the face of Warsaw.. You couldnt miss this hulk-
ing giant of a landmark if you tried. Soaring 231 metres into
the sky the building remains the tallest in Poland, in spite of
recent competition from its highrise neighbours.
Originally commissioned by Stalin as a gift from the Soviet
people the structure actually takes its inspiration from the
capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building, but, be-
lieve it or not, was specifically designed to include influences
from all of Polands architectural styles. Stalin had sent a
secret delegation to New York to learn both about the building
and American construction methods, though the outbreak
of WWII meant that it wasnt until 1952 that his architects
were able to commence putting their knowledge into prac-
tice. Lev Rudynev, the brains behind the equally monstrous
Lomonosov University in Moscow, was put in charge of the
design and set about making the building into one of the most
notorious examples of Socialist Realist architecture in the
world. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet
states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki, west
Warsaw, where they were effectively cut off from the outside
world. Working around the clock, it took them just three years
to complete the Palace. In all 16 died during the construction,
though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin
never lived to see his pet project completed.
Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288
rooms the Palaces purpose was to serve as not just party
headquarters but also the peoples castle, with invitations
to the annual New Years Eve Ball issued to the best workers
in socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an
object of hatred and a stain on the skyline; like the imperialist
Nevsky Cathedral that once stood on pl. Pisudskiego, the palace
was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony.
Viewed from a distance - apparently it can be spotted from
30km away - the palace appears a faceless monolith. Viewed
closely several intricate details appear in focus. Under Stalins
orders architects travelled around Polands key cultural sights,
from Wawel to Zamo, observing Polish architectural tradi-
tions, hence the numerous crenulations, courtyards and motifs.
Once inside the ground floor becomes a maze of halls and
corridors, with chambers named after Eastern icons - Yuri
Gagarin, Marie Skodowska-Curie (a famous communist
sympathiser), etc. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking
parquet flooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegorical
socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology - its
easy to imagine Bond snooping around planting listening de-
vices. Several conference rooms still hold original translator
booths, complete with huge dials and buttons. The crowning
glory of the ground floor is the Sala Kongresowa, a decadent
red theatre space apparently inspired by La Scala. Holding
2,880 its original use was to host party conferences, though
through the years it became better known as a concert venue
- hosting acts as diverse as the Rolling Stones in 1967 and
the Chippendales in 2006.
Given that the building boasts over 3,300 rooms there is
not a lot to see, unless youre into conference facilities, so
visitors are best directed to the terrace on the 30th floor.
To get there youll need to buy a ticket for 15z, after which
youll be shepherded into an old-style lift complete with a
lovely lift attendant who has probably been doing the job
since the building opened. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00; Fri, Sat
09:00 - 23:30. From September open 09:00 - 18:00; Fri, Sat
09:00 - 23:30. Admission for the viewing level is 18/12z.
Group ticket for more than 10 people 10z per person.
Museum of Technology (Muzeum Techniki) B-4,
Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 67 47, www.
muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl. A vast collection dedicated
to the history of everything technological inside the equally
enormous Palace of Culture & Science, this museum is only
missing a map. Truly huge, and clearly laid out by somebody
with a sadistic sense of humour, the scores of rooms are
scattered willy nilly and organised with what appears to be
a contemptuous disregard for reason and logic. Highlights
include a cavalcade of impossible-looking motorbikes and
aeroplanes, a room packed with 19th century musical boxes,
historical cars like a 1936 Lux-Sport limousine chassis and
a small exhibition celebrating space exploration that could
do with some serious updating. Decorated with lace curtains
and staffed by an army of sinister-looking old ladies, this
museum guarantees that you wont learn a thing no matter
how hard you try, but its a strangely rewarding experience
that really has to be seen to be believed. Q Open 09:00 -
17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 14/8z. Family
ticket (up to 5 people) 30z. Guided tours in English - additional
50z per group.
i nterrogati on centre. The i mposi ng buil di ng, currentl y
housing the Ministry of Education, was left untouched by
the carnage of war and now also holds a small but sober-
ing museum within its bowels. Cells, where prisoners were
held prior to interrogation, have been left largely as they
were. Known as trams, Poles would be sat on wooden
benches facing the wall as they awaited their fate. Forbid-
den to eat or sleep, they were compelled to sit motionless
in darkness, sometimes for days on end. Failure to do
so would lead to almost certain death. The bullet marks
scarring the walls tell their own harrowing story. Although
the torture cells have long since been blocked off, the
English language tape that the curator plays paints a vivid
and repulsive picture. Prisoners were subjected to savage
beatings, attacked with dogs and electrocuted. Those who
didnt co-operate would, in some cases, be forced to watch
their own families being tortured. The office where prison-
ers would have been checked in also remains, complete
wi th a faded portrai t of Hi tl er and battered issues of
Wehrmacht magazine lying around. Manacles, bullwhips
and other sinister instruments can also be seen stacked
on the bookshel f. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 8/5z, Thu free, ticket also admits you
to Pawiak Prison (ul. Dzielna 24/26).
Invisible Exhibition (Niewidzialna Wystawa) A-4,
Al. Jerozolimskie 123a, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.
niewidzialna.pl. Would you pay good money for an exhibi-
tion you cant see? Thats the idea behind Niedwidzialna
Wystawa (The Invisible Exhibition), which takes visitors
into the world of the sightless. The roughly hour-long tours
(which we recommend you book in advance to avoid waiting)
are helmed by guides who know of what they speak: all are
partially or completely blind themselves. Tours begin with
several stations that help get you acclimated to the chal-
lenges blind people face daily. Youll get to tap on a Braille
typewriter, test out gadgets that help the sightless do tasks
in the kitchen, and try to solve simple puzzles while wearing
a blindfold. Once youre sufficiently awed by your inability to
do even minor tasks the guide leads the group into the main
portion of the exhibition: a pitch-black series of rooms that
force you to rely on your other senses to get by (were not
kidding about the darkness level; be prepared). Youll visit an
art gallery, a bar and take a walk outside while the guides
ask questions about what youre encountering - youll be
listening for the swoosh of cars before crossing the street,
or feeling a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is. If you
bring along change the guide will even serve you a drink in
the completely dark bar. An eye-opening experience that will
have you thinking heavily about what you take for granted.
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance
60 minutes before closing. Admission 21-25/16-22z, family
ticket 57-66z.
Parks
Mokotowskie Field (Pole Mokotowskie) E-5.
Penned i n by the di stri cts of Mokotw, Ochota and
rdmiecie this park represents prime real estate, and
right now much of the land is subject to sky-high bods from
nasty real estate developers. Hands off we say, and not just
because drinking in Pole Mokotowskies countless bars is
one of the highlights of summer. Prior to WWII it was used
as a military parade ground, and then from 1910 as one of
Europes first airports. It was here that the Polish aviators
wirko and Wigura began many of their aerial adventures,
and by 1921 passenger flights linking Warsaw with Paris (via
Prague and Strasbourg) were commonplace. The opening
of Okcie Airport in 1933 sounded the death knell for the
airport, and today it serves as a popular summer spot for
suburbanites, as well the venue for public events such as
the annual Earth Festival.
Saski Park (Ogrd Saski) B-2/3, between ul.
Marszakowska and ul. Krlewska. Opened to the public
in 1727 Saski Park ranks as one of the oldest public parks
in the world, and was originally designed in a French style,
before being changed to follow English aesthetics in the
19th century. Originally part of the Saski Palace complex
the parks highlights include a sundial dating from 1863 and
the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (the only surviving part of
the Palace). Although wrecked by Nazi miscreants in 1944
many of trees in the park survived, and its possible to find
ones dating from a quarter of a millennium ago. An empire
style fountain designed by Marconi in 1855 stands close to
the bottom corner of the park, and other points of interest
include a memorial honouring Warsaw residents killed during
WWII, and a statue of Stefan Starzyski, the citys mayor
at the outbreak of WWII who was later to become another
statistic of Dachau concentration camp.
Ujazdowski Park G- 4. Not as grand as the nearby
azienki, its still a pleasant place to walk the dog and get
up to other typical Sunday pastimes. It stands under the
imposing shadow of Ujazdowski Castle which was rebuilt
in the 1970s.
Places of Interest
Gestapo HQ (Mauzoleum Walki i Mczestwa)
G- 4, Al. Szucha 25, tel. (+48) 22 629 49 19, www.
muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl. Every bit as disturbing as
Pawiak is the former Gestapo HQ, found on Al. Szucha
25. Built between 1927 and 1930, the buildings original
purpose was to serve as a centre for religious beliefs. In
1939 it came under control of the Nazi regime, and for the
next five years became one of the most feared addresses
in Poland operating, among other capacities, as a brutal
Photo: Jan Kucharzyk/Archiwum Stoecznego Biura Turystyki
87
86
Old Town (Stare Miasto) B-1/2. The Old Town is a
labyrinth of winding streets and squares full of olde worlde
charm. While it was entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw upris-
ing of 1944, it is well worth a visit to get lost amongst the
cobbles and tastefully recreated facades. Souvenirs ranging
from the tasteless - baseball hats and fridge magnets, paint-
ings of coquettish horses - to the tasteful - amber, lace and
ceramics - are best found here, though at premium tourist
prices. The best thing about the Old Town, however, is the
tangible sense of Polish pride in their city and if nothing else,
its a great place to relax with a beer and indulge in an hour
or two of nun spotting.
When US General Dwi ght Ei senhower vi si ted Warsaw
immediately after the war he was moved to comment, I
have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have
I been faced with such destruction. Buri ed under
twenty million cubic metres of rubble the city resembled
a shattered shell; over hal f the population had been killed,
and 85% of the city razed to the ground. The Old Town had
been hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time
the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than
a smouldering heap of bricks. To their credit the Capital
Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre,
a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using
pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Ol d
Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable
expense of Polands recovered territories. Szczecin, for
instance, was coerced into demolishing many of its historic
buildings in order to donate an estimated 27 million bricks
to the Warsaw rebuilding program. So too Wrocaw, which
at one stage was sending a staggering one million bricks
to Warsaw per day; He who loves Wrocaw, loves Warsaw
as well pined a propaganda tune of the era. But forget the
other cities, look at the results in front of you. Although
its barely hal f a century old Warsaws historic quarter is
an architectural miracle, and a breathing tribute to a city
that refused to die.
Most visits to the Old Town begin on plac Zamkowy (B-2),
and i f youre Polish then right under the statue of Zygmunt.
There isnt a more popular meeting spot in the city, and
theres not a minute of the day when the steps to the
statue arent besieged by dating couples or banjo playing
irritants. Erected in 1644 by Zygmunt IIIs son, Wadysaw
IV, the twenty two metre column was originally designed by
Italian architects Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla,
and the figure of Zygmunt ranks as Polands second oldest
monument - beaten into runners up spot by the Neptun
Fountain in Gdask. Local legend asserts that Zygmunt
rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occur-
rence that was first reported during the 1794 Kociuszko
Uprising and again during WWII. One fact that cant be
disputed is his good fortune. With the Warsaw Uprising in
full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and
came crashing down. Amazingly Zygmunt survived, losing
only his sword, and he was returned to a new perch in 1949.
The column he fell off is still knocking around as well, and
you can find it lying on its side within spitting distance of
the Royal Castle.
Moving forward head down witojaska to run a gaunt-
let of buskers, ice cream queues and shoe shine boys.
Somewhere amid the melee youll spot the Cathedral (see
Churches), well worth popping into, not least to check out
the Baruczkowski Crucifix - a 16th century cross renowned
for its mysterious powers. Famed in particular for its crypt
this neo-Gothic masterpiece also contains stunning works
of art, as well as tank tracks on the exterior wall recovered
from a remote-controlled German tank used to attack the
cathedral in 1944. The overall effect is quite something, so
its no surprise many people bypass the Jesuit Church right
next door, a super renaissance building described in detail
in our Churches section.
Its hard to believe that by the end of 1944 all before you
was just a skeletal set of ruins, but thats exactly what it
was. Evidence of this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecka where
some black and white photographs show aerial views of the
war time devastation. The Old Towns subsequent inclusion
on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is remembered
in the form of some cobbled stones set into the ground. As
tempting as it is to make a beeline for the main square, the
Rynek, save yourself for now. Head instead down ul. Piwna,
or Beer Street as it translates. Although theres no evidence
of the 15th century breweries that once thrived here you will
find a couple of half decent hostelries, though the real reason
many visit this street is for a glimpse of St. Martins Church
on ul. Piwna 9/11. This place was utterly annihilated during
the war, and the only fragment to survive was a half-burned
figure of Jesus. Since its inception the church has always
been linked with theological and political dissent, and this
was never more true than in the period of Martial Law, when
Solidarity supporters would convene here for both worship
and secret meetings. As with the rest of Old Town, the real
beauty of Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate
paintings and gargoyles that peer from the facades, and
dont miss the portal at number 6. Known locally as Pod
Gobiami (under the pigeons) and housing a restaurant
called Karmnik, this place acquired its name after the war
when a batty old woman settled in the ruins and made it her
calling to look after the flocks of pigeons that stalked around
the post-war debris.
OLD TOWN
Back outside take stock of one of Polands finest town
squares. In the 15th century this was occupied by a town
hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never re-
placed. Instead, today youll find a couple of water pumps
dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaws best
loved monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaids
form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms youll find in
the capital. Youre also liable to run into a platoon of street
artists. Most famous of the lot is Piotr Bol, a weird, cloaked
little man who plays one of Europes last music boxes with
a parrot alongside him. But for real comedy gold check out
the mime artists who stand in frozen posture - a few years
back one such chap, dressed as a monk, collapsed after
a marathon booze binge leaving his giant genitals exposed
to the world.
Leaving the square head down ul. Kamienne Schodki.
Not only is this the longest stairwell in Old Town, its also
where Napoleon stood in 1806, pensively staring east-
ward on the eve of his campaign on the plains of Russia.
From here walk south down ul. Brzozowa until you reach
the grassy bank that offers sweeping views of the River
Wisa. Known as Gnojna Gra (Compost Hill), this small
knoll once served as the town rubbish dump, and at one
stage was also renowned for its healing properties - this is
where the stupid rich would come to be buried up to their
necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis. Doesnt
work, weve tried.
Head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul.
Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most
picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic
walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia. Once a grave-
yard, this small little square features a cracked cathedral
bell (that promises good luck i f you touch the top and
circle it) as well as what is touted as the worlds narrowest
house at number 20/22 (though a new narrow home being
constructed in the crack between 22 Chodna St. and 74
elazna St. that measures just 72 cm at its smallest point
may just top it). Close by note the covered walkway linking
the cathedral to the castle. This was built after a failed
assassination attempt on Zygmunt III. The King escaped
unmolested, but the hapless hitman, Michal Piekarski,
found himsel f skinned alive, stretched by four horses and
then chopped into pieces with an axe. And on that happy
note, consider your tour at an end.
OLD TOWN
Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area
around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska. This area was for-
merly home to a small square used primarily for executions.
Nicknamed Piekarka this is where witches and other neer do
wells would be burned at the stake, hung or have their heads
lopped off. Marking the end of Piekarska, just outside the old
city walls, check out the sword waving figure of Jan Kiliski
(see Monuments), a legendary Polish patriot and a hero of the
1794 Kociuszko Uprising. The man who gave his name to
that Uprising, Tadeusz Kociuszko (the same lad who would
fight with distinction in the American War of Independence,
and would later have Australias highest peak named after
him), lived at Szeroki Dunaj 5. This wide street was formerly
home to Warsaws fish market, while the street running at a
90 degree angle, Wski Dunaj, was the towns original Jewish
Quarter back in medieval times. Directly behind the wall, and
onto Podwale, youll find one of Warsaws most photographed
landmarks; The Monument to the Little Insurgent. Depicting
a boy weighed down by a machine gun and outsized helmet
the monument honours the memory of the child soldiers who
fought and died in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, and its not
rare to find the bronze statue surrounded by school groups
on their day out to the capital.
Foll ow Podwal e as i t curves northwards, and i f youre
feeling peckish at this stage search the radar for signs
of Podwale Kompania Piwna at number 25 (see Where to
Eat). Resembling a typical European beer hall this place
is an absolute legend, with servings of meat and cabbage
practically forklifted onto tables. At this stage its fair to say
youll probably be feeling like a python who swallowed a pig,
so waddle with great care and attention to the Barbakan
building, making sure to avoid those annoying street dudes
wholl try and lead you to their executioners block to have
your pic snapped. Crowning the set of defensive walls which
once protected the city is the Barbakan, a fearsome rotund
structure that dates from 1548 and was apparently the work
of a Venetian architect. Today it serves as a bridge between
Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for
teenagers drinking super-strength lager. In summer tours of
the interior are available, and well worth the look if you dont
have an aversion to confined spaces. Interestingly, the moat
that pins the Old Town in is another relatively recent addition
to Warsaw. The original ditch was filled in back in the 18th
century when the defences became obsolete, and the walls
were incorporated into the dense tangle of townhouses
that mushroomed up around. Fragments of these forgotten
defences were unearthed in 1937, and a decade later, with
Warsaw in ruins, architects took the decision to restore and
expose these ancient walls.
Its at this point youll find your nose pointing straight down
ul. Nowomiejska, a street revered for Warsaws best ice
cream. Continue forward to reach the Old Town Square
(Rynek). No matter how often you see it, it cant fail to leave
you breathless. The burgher houses that line the square
are particularly striking, with many boasting intricate details
on the facades. Measuring 90 metres by 73 this square is
Warsaws defining highlight, and presents unlimited ways
to squander your money - tourist junk stores and crappy
restaurants populated with stuffed animals come to mind.
One place that is worth popping into, even if its just to steal
the cutlery, is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradition
here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned this
place into Warsaws top winery. Today the restaurant is
in the hands of the Gesslers, and their guest list reads as
something of a Whos Who of stage and screen. Close by is
the Historical Museum of Warsaw, which has been closed
for renovations but reopens in May be one of the first to
see this excellent museums overhaul.
89
88
PRAGA PRAGA
Gritty. Bo-ho. Up-and-coming. There are a lot of terms be-
ing tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of
Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River, and theyre all fairly apt.
Praga has long been regarded as off-limits to Western visitors
thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks,
but a revival of sorts now makes this section of town worthy
of emphasising - especially if you prefer to see the citys
artsy underbelly and get away from the well-trodden tourist
path in Old Town. The area is still at least five years away
from being hipster-soaked Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but
thats exactly why now is the time to go: a visit will mean you
can say you saw the evolution in progress.
In practice and geographically Praga has always been set
apart from Warsaw proper. Until 1791 the district was its own
separate town and the inability to build a permanent bridge
between Praga and Warsaw until the mid-18th century surely
proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the summer
and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the winter were
the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days). Finally
in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached the
district officially to Warsaw, dissolving it of its independence
(at least on paper).
Praga wasnt given much time to enjoy its new status as
part of Warsaw thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794,
which saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army. Fol-
lowing the quick but devastating battle the Russians burned
the entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles living
there. During World War II Praga wasnt quite as devastated
as Warsaw proper (which isnt really saying much if youve
seen the condition Warsaw was left in). The Russians, again,
arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped at the Vistula,
famously leaving the Polish Home Army dangling during the
Warsaw Uprising.
Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool,
especially among those who find the tourist-heavy Old Town
too Disneyfied and the sterile clubs of Warsaw proper as
distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun
improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking
out the sights and an evening enjoying the often impressive
beer selection.
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument (Pomnik Ag-
nieszki Osieckiej) H-2, ul. Francuska (corner of ul.
Obrocw). Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish
poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs,
many of which were turned into pop hits. Shes also known
for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties;
her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband,
Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles
Mansons family of weirdos in what would turn out to be
one of the crimes of the century. The statue is located in
Praga Poudnie, a more modern section of Praga (note the
surrounding embassies) than Stara Praga. To round out your
visit check out Osieckas favourite caf, Maska, which stands
around the corner from her monument.
Bears C-1, Praski Park (from al. Solidarnoci), tel.
(+48) 22 619 40 41. Strangely enough, bears have been
living on the concrete island in Praski Park since 1949; over
400 have been reared here before being packed off to zoos,
safari parks and circuses around the globe. Although the
bears look rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Several
years ago a drunken idiot was savaged after jumping into
the enclosure. The two current well-rested residents are
called Tatra and Turnia.
Buildings. Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much
of Praga survived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the
bullet-scarred tenement houses found by the riverside is
to immerse yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving
residential building in the district can be found on (H-1) ul.
Targowa 50/52. Built in 1819, it once housed a Jewish el-
ementary school and bears a Hebrew inscription dating from
1934. Note that at press time the buildings were covered with
a protective sheet due to renovations in the area.
Kapela Podwrkowa Monument G-1, corner of ul.
Floriaska and ul. Kopotowskiego. The tradition of cloth-
capped buskers goes back a long way in Warsaw, and the
best loved of the lot have been commemorated in the heart
of Praga. The pre-war Kapela Podwrkowa (The Courtyard
Band) are a bit of a local legend in these parts, and now the
five piece band have been honoured with a noisy monument
sculpted by Andrzej Renes. Send a text (SMS) message to tel.
7141 with the text KAPELA, then pick a number between 1
and 100 (the list of 100 songs to choose from is on the side
of the brass drum); thats the signal for hidden speakers to
burst forth with pre-war and patriotic classics made famous
by these local heroes. However, recent visits to the statue
have shown the buskers to be temperamental, and texts did
not always result in a song being played.
Koci us z kowcw Monument (Pomni k
Kociuszkowcw) G-1, ul. Wybrzee Szczeciskie,
Near Port Praski. A formidable monument erected in 1985
to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish
Infantry Division. Formed in Russia, the division attempted
to cross the Wisa river several times without success, in a
bid to support the 1944 Uprising.
Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Cerkiew
w. Marii Magdaleny) G-1, Al. Solidarnoci 52, tel.
(+48) 22 619 84 67. Constructed between 1867 and 1869
to a design by Mikoaj Syczew, St. Mary Magdalenes was
originally built for the large congregation of Russians living
around Jagielloska as well as people arriving from the
East at the nearby Wileska train station. Now belonging to
the independent Polish Autocephaly Orthodox Church, this
stunning, five-domed building features a breathtaking golden
interior and some unusually cheerful abstract designs. One
of only two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition cam-
paign in the 1920s, its easily the best-smelling church in
Praga thanks to the heavy burning of rich incense. Q Open
12:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun open during mass only.
Rycki Bazaar (Bazar Ryckiego) H-1, ul.
Targowa 54, tel. (+48) 22 619 44 06, www.bazarro-
zyckiego.pl. Once regarded as Warsaws premier bazaar,
the rambling Bazar Ryckiego has seen its popularity wane
since 1989. Black market trade once thrived under Nazi and
communist governments, but nowadays the historic market
(it began in 1901) is a ghostly image of its former self. Once
considered the place for cardigans, firearms and spurious
goods, its now a mildly depressing look into working class
Warsaw life. Visitors could easily outfit an entire polyester
wedding thanks to the heaps of vendors selling cheap
wedding dresses, tacky kiddie tuxes and chintzy mother-of-
the-bride gowns. QOpen 06:00 - 17:00, Sat 06:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Soviet War Memorial (Pomnik Braterstwa Broni)
G-1, Pl. Wileski. Dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who died
during the liberation of Warsaw, this monument has been
removed due to the construction of a new Metro station
and will spend some time being restored before relocating
80 metres down the road on Pl. Wileski (towards ul. Cyryla
i Metodego). Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII,
the rusting edi fice is the citys least loved memorial and
is often littered with graffiti (though the clean-up should
temporarily take care of this). Its Praga location is quite
apt - this was where the Red Army halted their advance in
1944, while Nazi troops put down the Warsaw Uprising and
then demolished the city.
Sts. Michael & Florian
Cathedral (Katedra w.
Michaa Archanioa i
w. Floriana) G- 1, ul.
Floriaska 3, tel. (+48) 22
619 09 60, www.katedra-
floriana.home.pl/cms/. This
giant gothic cathedral view-
able from across the Vistula
in Warsaw proper was built in
reaction to the building of an
Orthodox Church and a num-
ber of other structures on the
Tsars orders in the latter half
of the 19th century. A certain
Pole by the name of Father
Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided to hit back with the construction
of a huge new Catholic church, which was consecrated in
1901. Unsurprisingly this vast Gothic beast was blown to
pieces by the Germans in September 1944 and is now al-
most exclusively the work of ongoing reconstruction between
1947 and 1970. Featuring a pair of steel-tipped 75-metre
steeples, the church, which includes a photograph of what
remained of it after the Nazis dynamited it on the left wall
as you enter, has a rather plain interior though the vaulted
ceilings are well worth a look at if youre in the area. Q Open
by prior arrangement.
Zbkowska. Nowhere is Pragas revival better illustrated
than ulica Zbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all
the Boho and artistic types who have recently materialized
to upgrade the district. Originally lined with timber frame
houses, Zbkowska experienced a fierce blaze in 1868 that
led to wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements, all
but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard,
with Zbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans
for wholesale demolition were seriously considered. However
it survived, and today restoration work has seen many of
buildings returned to their former glory, streets repaved and
galleries opened. For some the very name Zbkowska is syn-
onymous with lively bars filled with student revolutionaries.
Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40
41, www.zoo.waw.pl. If the bears piqued your interest in
animals then head to the nearby Warsaw Zoo, which was
opened in 1928 and covers an area of 40 hectares. More
than 5,000 species call it home and that includes all the
biggies youd expect: lions, gorillas, giraffes and elephants to
name a few. As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo
has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of
the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed,
deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into
the wild. Zoo director, Jan abiski, became something of a
hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, abiski helped
save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the
grounds of the zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 20/15z. Children under 3 years free.
Nightlife
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22. See Nightlife.
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagielloska 22.
See Nightlife.
W Oparach Absurdu H-1, ul. Zbkowska 6. See
Nightlife.
Restaurants
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Zbkowska 16. See Restaurants.
By Public Transport:
From Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the
river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place
to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears
as you disembark). If youre in the Old Town simply walk
down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarnosci
and the Stare Miasto tram stop and every tram heading
over the river (23, 26) stops at Park Praski as well. These
same trams will return you to the Stare Miasto as well.
By taxi:
You can also take a taxi which should cost around
20-30z and should take you from the centre area to
Zbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember
that the price and time depends on the traffic, so your
journey may be longer during rush hours.
Getting to Praga
Praga Tourist Information (Praska Informacja
Turystyczna) H-1, ul. Zbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48)
22 670 01 56, www.totu.travel.pl. Info on the local
area and guided tours in English and Polish, as well as
an application for smartphones that offers a tour of
Praga in English. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tourist Information
Micha Durak/Wikipedia/
CC BY-SA 3.0
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ELEKTORALNA & CHODNA ELEKTORALNA & CHODNA
the theatre crowd gather to discuss opening night, and its
not rare to find stars of Polish screen and stage hunched
over beers while shaggy dogs sit in their midst. Dont be
surprised to walk in on impromptu poetry slams, or a
performance by experimental bands answering to names
like The Crazy Pierogi.
Etgar Kerets House E-2, ul. Chodna 22/ul. elazna
74, centrala.net.pl/our-work/keret. Across the street
from Chodna 25 youll find the location for what is one of
the thinnest homes in the world (were not kidding: opening
the refrigerator door would necessitate standing in another
room). Designed by architect Jakub Szczsny, the steel-
framed construction will be finished with Styrofoam and
plywood with its widest point being 133cm and its narrow-
est just 71cm. The Israeli writer Etgar Keret, for whom this
has been built, will use it as a home in Warsaw and when
he is out of town, the installation (it has been listed a piece
of art as it has no building licence) will act as a studio for
visiting artists. Keret is an interesting character in himsel f.
The son of a Polish Jew who spent 3 years of the war hiding
from the Germans in a compartment under the floor of a
Warsaw house, Keret sees this project as an external eye
on Warsaw and its cultural landscape. He wants to show
that Warsaw is a lively and multicultural city totally at odds
with the image created by the Ministry of Education in Israel
who he feels indoctrinate Israeli youth in a pilgrimage of
hatred. The location is also signi ficant. Found on what was
the border between the large and small ghettos of WWII
Warsaw, the building can be found perched between a Com-
munist era block and a pre-war tenement which is meant
as a comment on the neighbourhoods divided past The
buildings were not touching each other which is symbolic of
the ignorance during the Communist period says Szczsny.
I f a symbol was needed for the district this surely should
be it in our opinion.
A Footbridge of Memory D-2, Intersection of ul.
Chodna and ul. elazna. Standing on the corner of
elazna and Chodna is the Footbridge of Memory
memori al , two gi ant metal pol es connected across
Chodna by wires. This is the location of one of the most
recognisable images of the Warsaw ghetto: the footbridge
that connected the small and large ghettos. At night the
wires li ght up and create a virtual bridge in the exact
location of the former ghetto bridge. The poles also have
viewing windows where visitors can flip through images
of li fe in the Warsaw ghetto. By now youve also prob-
ably noticed the pavement outline that symbolizes the
ghettos borders, which can be found on the sidewalk as
you tromp down Chodna.
Obera Pod Czer wonym Wieprzem E- 2, ul .
elazna 68. More of Chodnas Jewish connections later,
next up is a visit to Obera Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem
(Under the Red Hog Inn). The storys a good one: in 2006
workers uncovered the remains of a secret underground
eatery frequented over the decades by all the communist
baddi es youd ever thi nk of - Mao, Leni n, Castro and
Brezhnev to name but a few. Unearthed were a stack
of medals, uni forms, manuscripts and menus, so this
being capi talist Poland a plan was hatched to restore
the restaurant to its former glory and make a mint from
touting it as the all-singing commie experience. Of course,
the story itsel f is a load of poppycock, and nothing more
than a cheeky PR stunt pulled by the management. But it
was enough to fool the journalists and a legend was born.
Now its an intrinsic part on any tour of Socialist Poland,
as well as jolly good place to dine on Tito Boar, aspic and
pigs trotters. Yum!
The major sights in Warsaw need little introduction to the
visitor who has already chalked up a few days sightseeing
in the city. But theres more to the city than cobbled squares
and palaces on lakes as a little detour just to the north west
of the central station will reveal. Weve decided to give the
lesser known and quite frankly in places, pig ugly, streets
of Chodna and Elektoralna a look to discover some sights
rarely highlighted by guided tours but which are fascinating
none the less. The following sights have been presented in
an order to allow you to visit each in order as you pass from
west to east.
This walking tour starts at the western end of ul. Chodna
and brings you back towards the centre. Trams stop at the
nearby junction with ul. Towarowa (D-2) and one suggestion
might be to walk back to the centre via this route after having
visited the nearby Warsaw Uprising Museum.
Warsaw Trade Tower D-2, ul. Chodna 51. The first
point of call on your tour is at one of Warsaws unavoidable
landmarks - the Warsaw Trade Tower. Completed in 1999
this 208-metre skyscraper stands out as a masterpiece in
a city not short of latter-day architectural marvels. Tower-
ing over all its immediate neighbours the Trade Tower was
originally christened the Daewoo Centre, before financial
disaster saw it sold off to the highest bidder (US$100 mil-
lion) in what was then the biggest purchase transaction in
Polish real estate history. Characterized by its cylindrical
shape and odd angles its a breathtaking piece of work,
and equally impressive from the inside. The interior design
was apparently inspired by art deco Chicago, while hi-tech
gadgetry includes some of the quickest elevators in Europe
- 35 seconds to the 41st floor.
Meridian E-2, ul. Chodna 48. Onwards down the street
and youll be quick to note that the tower stands out like a
shark in a paddling pool. Surrounding it is practically noth-
ing, just a stretch of grubby looking car service centres. Its
only as you reach the intersection with ul. Wronia that signs
of regeneration become apparent. Straddling the corner is
the Meridian apartment block, a flashy gated community,
located on the site of a former engineering factory. This is
planned to be the first of many aimed at regenerating this
quarter of town. Featuring a two-level underground car park,
Japanese garden and marble lobby you couldnt wish for a
sharper contrast to what is found opposite.
Chodna 25 E-2, ul. elazna 75a (entrance from ul.
Chodna). Facing the Meridian apartment block is Chodna at
its worst - a darkened pre-war tenement flanked by low-level
prefabricated buildings selling hammers, spanners, mops
and tyres. Then, lined up like tin soldiers, theres enough
bars to put your tour in seriously danger of being terminated
earlier than expected.
Things improve as you reach the junction with ul. elazna.
Just before i t youll find Chodna 25, one of the finest
establishments of its kind. Opened in 2004 this is where
Jerzy Popieuszkos house A-3, ul. Chodna 15. Back
onto Chodna and youll find more signs of Polands commu-
nist legacy in the shape of rows and rows of grim concrete
tower blocks. They all look the same, and make for a depress-
ing backdrop. However its not for this reason that Chodna
is best known. Chodna 15 is where Jerzy Popieuszko, the
Catholic priest murdered by security services in 1984, once
lived. A fierce anti-communist Popieuszko had strong links
with the Solidarity movement and had been identified as a
threat to the system. Having already survived one attempt
on his life he was followed after saying mass in Bydgoszcz
on October 19th, 1984, apprehended and murdered before
his body was unceremoniously dumped in a lake. Seen as a
national hero and martyr his funeral attracted over a quarter
of a million mourners, and today a stone tablet sits in the
centre of Chodna in tribute to his life.
Adam Czerniakws house A-3, ul. Chodna 20.
Standing on the other side you cant miss Chodna 20. Not
only is this a smashing piece of art nouveau Warsaw, but
theres also a bit of history behind it all. Built in 1913 this is
the former residence of Adam Czerniakw. An engineer by
profession Czerniakw assumed fame as head of the Juden-
rat (the Jewish led organization responsible for implementing
Nazi orders in the Ghetto). Troubled by German orders to
oversee deportations to Treblinka Czerniakw chose death
by cyanide rather than comply, and his body is now interred
in the Jewish cemetery on ul. Okopowa.
St. Carlo Borromeo Church (Koci w. Karola
Boromeusza) A-3, ul. Chodna 9, tel. (+48) 22 620 37
47. The Socialist Realist buildings found next door are typical of
rebuilt Warsaw, and fine examples of this uniquely Stalinist style.
Nice as it is, theres only one thing that dominates the vision as
you look down Chodna - the splendid form of St. Carlo Borromeo
Church. Designed by Henryk Marconi, and built between 1841
and 1849, this glorious building was modelled on the Santa
Maria Maggiore Basilica in Rome. Miraculously it escaped WWII
virtually intact, with only the presbytery sustaining damage.
Subject to recent work to restore the figures of the apostles
that stand outside, this sits up there alongside Warsaws top
churches. Q Open during mass or by prior arrangement.
T.G.I. Fridays E-2, Al. Jana Pawa II 29. From there
youre practically on Al. Jana Pawa II, separated from the clot
of traffic only by TGI Fridays. This spot is worth mentioning
because of its place in gangland folklore. Back in 1999,
when mafia gangs still ruled The Wild East, a mobster named
Kajtek was shot dead outside in a hit by the Woomin gang.
An innocent bystander was also killed in the shooting, and
the incident sparked a vicious spiral of violence; eleven days
later five men with known associations with the Woomin firm
were murdered in reprisal in another Warsaw restaurant.
Hala Mirowska A-3, Pl. Mirowski 1. Across the street
looms the giant Hala Mirowska, which consists of two nar-
row brick halls constructed between 1899 and 1901 on the
instruction of Russian mayor Nikolai Bibikov. It functioned as
Warsaws largest market up until the outbreak of the Warsaw
Uprising. Though ravaged by fire the walls refused to give
way and the buildings survived - check out the bullet scars
still all too visible. Serving as a bus depot in the immediate
post-war years the structure resumed its original purpose in
the 1950s, and today is notable for its flower stalls outside,
as well as lines of country folk selling jars of mushrooms out
of the backs of their vans.
Juliusz Sowacki Memorial A-3, ul. Elektoralna 20.
Continuing down Elektoralna street you might spy a rather
nasty looking pinkish stone that stands on the corner of
Elektoralna and Al. Jana Pawa II. Thats there to honour
Juliusz Sowacki, one of the three bards of Poland, who
kept quarters at number 20.
Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts A-3, ul.
Elektoralna 12. Continuing down Elektoralna youll be met
with the sight of the Mazovia Regional Centre of Culture and
Arts on Elektoralna 12 - find classical music concerts orga-
nized each summer. Thats a far cry from years before when,
as the plaque duti fully informs us, this neo-renaissance
building served as Warsaws first hospital with standalone
pavilions. Quite what that means is anyones guess, but it
sounds impressive enough to warrant a mention.
Grzegorz Przemyk Memorial A-3, ul. Elektoralna
5/7. As your walk slowly nears its conclusion youll find
yoursel f passing a rather gloomy looking school building
on Elektoralna 5/7. Of course, this being Warsaw, even this
place has a story. Outside youll notice a plaque dedicated
to the memory of a lad called Grzegorz Przemyk. He was
the son of a subversive poetess called Barbara Sadowska
who frequently fell afoul of the communist authorities for her
covert political and artistic gatherings. Fed up with her anti-
authoritarian stance the militia decided to scare her by giving
her son a damn good kicking. It went too far, and Przemyk
died of internal injuries on May 12, 1983. The subsequent
inquiry was seen as a whitewash and the case has since
pinballed around the Polish and European law courts for over
a decade without a definitive verdict as to what happened.
Museum of John Paul II Collection A-2, Pl. Bankowy
1. On the other side of the street youll notice a figure of the
Pope John Paul II peering out from behind the colonnades.
Inside this building (formerly the Warsaw Stock Exchange)
youll find the Museum of John Paul II Collection, which houses
an excellent collection of art, from Dalis to Van Goghs, named
in honour of the late Pope. And there you have it - Chodna and
Elektoralna, two unsung heroes on the route less travelled.
Full of history, a bit of grime and plenty of quirky sights they
help paint a fuller picture of the remarkable cit of Warsaw. Q
The museum generally is open only by prior arrangement. It
is free of charge and arrangements can be made by calling
(+48) 22 620 21 82 or (+48) 22 620 27 25.
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the Poles continued the fight on two fronts, with segments of
Chopin aired every 30 seconds by radio to let the outside
world know that Warsaw was still Polish. However the human
cost was starting to mount; the merciless bombardment
had claimed the lives of over 50,000 Varsovians, the Royal
Castle lay in ruins, and supplies of food, power and water had
reached critical levels. With Allied aid not forthcoming, and a
humanitarian disaster looming large, the capital finally raised
the white flag on September 28th. To bring the Polish heroics
into perspective, Paris, defended by the largest standing army
in the world, took just nine days to fall.
Occupation
Hitler arrived in Warsaw for his one and only visit to the
Polish capital on October 5th, inspecting a victory parade
on (C-4) Al. Ujazdowskie before scuttling off for a reception
at the Belvedere Palace. If his pre-war rants hadnt been
ominous enough, the Polish public were about to learn just
what a nutcase this man really was. The Fuhrers verdict on
the Poles is damning, wrote Goebbels shortly after Hitlers
stopover. More like animals than human beings, completely
primitive, stupid and amorphous.
Hitler carved Poland into pieces - parts were annexed into
the Reich, other areas - Warsaw included - found themselves
under the General Government of Hans Frank, an expert
chess player and fanatical Nazi: If I had to put up a poster
for every seven Poles I shot, the forests of Poland would not
be sufficient to manufacture the paper, he is said to have
bragged. His rule was textbook despot, both brutal and
bloody, and it was under his suggestion that Ludwig Fischer
was appointed governor of Warsaw, a post he would hold
right until 1945. Fischer was more bureaucrat than butcher,
yet nonetheless it was under his authority that Warsaw
became a city of blood.
The racial politics of the Reich were pursued with active
intent, with whole swathes of the city set aside for Ger-
mans only. The largest Ghetto the world has ever seen was
constructed to the north, and Warsaw was marginalized in
importance and earmarked as a town whose true purpose
would be to soak up refugees expelled from Aryan territories
to the west. Chopin disappeared from his plinth, Copernicus
and his statue were awarded German identity, and the Polish
community alienated from their own city. Daily rations were
set to 669 calories (184 for Jews), and its estimated that a
quarter of the population were only saved from starvation
by the appearance of emergency soup kitchens. But worse
was to follow; from 1943 the Gestapo were granted carte
blanche to shoot people on mere suspicion of wrongdoing,
and street roundups and public executions became a daily
occurrence. This wasnt so much a city under occupation as
a city under tyranny.
WARSAW UPRISING
August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist
hegemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go on
to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the German
occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat
from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army already on the
east bank of the Wisa, no time seemed better than the pres-
ent. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-
exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Polands
wartime military movement a.k.a the Armii Krajowy or AK)
launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw
and installing an independent government.
During the event the Red Army made no concerted attempt
to help the Poles, while promises of Allied support proved
largely empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they reacted with
blind rage to this stroke of Polish insolence, and what ensued
was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army
faced the full wrath of Hitler. The most notorious chapter of
Warsaws history was about to be written.
Outbreak of War
At 4:45am on September 1, 1939, shots were fired from Ger-
man gun emplacements positioned inside the lighthouse
at Danzig Neufahrwasser, found in what was then known as
the Free City of Danzig (today Gdansk). The object of the
aggression was the military garrison stationed on the Polish
controlled Westerplatte Peninsula, and within minutes the
German battleship Schleswig Holstein joined the bombard-
ment, inadvertently kicking off a conflict that would last six
years and cost 55 million lives.
Approximately an hour after Westerplatte the capital itself
came under aerial bombardment; waves of Stuka dive bomb-
ers swooped on the capital in what can only be described
as one of the worlds first ever terror bombings - hospitals,
schools and market places were all deemed legitimate
targets, while columns of fleeing refugees were strafed from
the air. Within a week German land forces had reached the
city limits, though any thoughts of a swift lightning victory
were quickly rebuffed. An opening tank assault on Ochota
was fended off, with the Germans losing 80 tanks from an
attacking force of 220. Spurred on by the stirring broadcasts
of Warsaw Mayor Stefan Starzynski the defenders dug in for
siege, fighting street by street and inch for inch. A German
demand for surrender on September 14th was rejected,
and in spite of claims of triumph in the German press the
city fought on, civilians and military alike joining together in
a desperate attempt to ward off the invaders.
Warsaws fate, and indeed Polands, was sealed days later
on the 17th of September when the Soviets invaded from the
east thereby fulfilling their part in the Nazi/Soviet Molotov-
Ribbentrop pact. Even so, with the odds stacked against them,
Insurgents charge into battle
Into captivity
WARSAW UPRISING
The Uprising
With such a malignant machine in force its little surprise
Poland gave birth to Europes largest resistance move-
ment. Even still, with the war moving towards its closing
stages it was far from obvious that the resistance would
abandon its partisan tactics and launch a bona fide mili-
tary assault on the Nazis. By July 1944 the Red Army
led by Marshal Rokossovsky had reached the Wisla, and
on July 22 a panicked Fischer ordered the evacuation of
German civilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were
torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards to
Berlin and all the signs suggested liberation was but days
away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising
was possibl e, yet nothing seemed cl ear cut. Fischers
appeal s for 100,000 Pol es to present themsel ves to
work on anti-tank defences were ignored, as were broad-
casts reminding the Poles of their heroic battle against
Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army
leaflet drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further
exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announce-
ment declaring, People of the capital! To arms! Strike at
the Germans! May your million strong population become
a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders
and win freedom. Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each
side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that
German military despatches on the afternoon of August
1, 1944 concluded with, Warschau ist kalm. Warsaw
was anything but.
On orders from General Tadeusz Bor Komorowski 5pm
si gnall ed W-Hour ( Wybuch standing for outbreak), the
precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home
Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the
time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any
numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was offset
by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of heavy
armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the
Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles
captured a string of strategic targets, including the old town,
Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Poland), and
the post office. The first day had cost the lives of 2,000
Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag
fluttered once more over the capital.
Yet in spite of these initial successes their remained sev-
eral concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across
the city, and many had failed to link up as planned. More
worryingly, several objectives had been met with disas-
ter - the police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained
firmly in German hands, even more importantly, so did the
airport. Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor,
screaming for No prisoners to be taken, and Every
inhabitant to be shot.
Within days German reinforcements started pouring in,
and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through
the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men,
women and children in what would become one of the most
savage episodes of the Uprising. Indeed, it was to prove a
mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, behind
the barricades, cultural life thrived - over 130 newspapers
sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scout
run postal service introduced. Better still, the first allied air
drops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out,
this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under
the command of the Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy
artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Even
worse, the practice of using Polish women as human shields
was quickly introduced.
The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000
women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews
liberated from a Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon of
deaf and dumb volunteers led by an officer called Yo Yo, and
an escaped English prisoner of war called John. Fantastically
ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was an almost suicidal
fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as
high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried
on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Air drops were vital if
the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered
with Stalins refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in
Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route
running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though
casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and
the drops often inaccurate - one such mission concluding with
960 canisters out of a 1,000 falling into German hands. All
hopes, it seemed, rested on the Russians.
After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky finally gave the
go ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross
the river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a
debacle, and with heavy casualties and no headway made
the assault was called off. For the Russians, this single
attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was
on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaws
old town, defended by 8,000 Poles, had become unten-
abl e, and a daring escape route was hatched through
the sewers running under the ci ty. The Germans were
now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts
of resistance, a task undertaken with glee and armour.
Six hundred millimetre shells were landing on the centre
every eight minutes, and casualties were rising to alarm-
ing rates. Surrender negotiations were initiated in early
September, though it wasnt till the end of the month - by
which time all hope had been exhausted - that they took
a concrete shape. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were
forced to capitulate once more, some 63 days after they
had taken on the Reich. The battle is finished, wrote
a eulogy in the final edition of the Information Bulletin.
From the blood that has been shed, from the common
toil and misery, from the pains of our bodies and souls, a
new Poland will arise - free.
Luftwaffe v Warsaw
94 95
WARSAW UPRISING
Aftermath
Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites,
11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity,
defeated but proud. The battle had cost up to 200,000
civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans
and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Hitler
was ecstatic; with the Uprising out of the way his plan to
raze Warsaw could finally be realized. Remaining inhab-
itants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to
have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the
Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city.
No stone can remain standing, warned Himmler, and
what happened next can only be described as the me-
thodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings were
numbered according to their importance to Polish culture
before being dynamited by teams of engineers, while less
historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Nothing
was spared the iconoclasm, not even trees. I have seen
many towns destroyed, exclaimed General Eisenhower
after the war, But nowhere have I been faced with such
destruction.
Modern studi es esti mate the cost of damage at around
fi fty four bi l l i on dol l ars. I n human terms Pol and l ost
much more. Wi th the Upri si ng di ed a gol den generati on,
the very foundati on a new post-war Pol and coul d bui l d
on. Those veterans who sur vi ved were treated wi th
suspi ci on and disdai n by the newl y i nstall ed communist
government, others were persecuted for percei ved
wester n sympat hi es. Post- war Sovi et show t ri al s
convi cted 13 l eaders of the Upri si ng for anti -Sovi et
acti ons, and thereafter the Upri si ng was condemned
as a fol l y to serve the bourgeoi s ends of the Pol i sh
government-i n-exi l e. Today, fi nal l y, the event that has
come to defi ne the spi ri t of Warsaw, has been awarded
the recogni ti on i t deserves.
Freedom came out against slavery. The flame of the
Uprising remained in peoples hearts and souls. It was
passed on by the baton of the generations. The spirit
proved indestructible and immortal. Soldiers of the
Rising. You did not die in vain.
Lech Walesa, 1994
Berling Statue H-3, Wa Miedzeszyski. Zygmunt
Berling is best remembered as the commander of the 1st
Polish Army during WWII, a role that saw him honoured with
his own statue in 1985. Designed by Kazimierz Danilewicz
his white marble monument frequentl y falls foul of the
vandals, and its not uncommon to see Berlings hands
daubed with blood red paint. Thats on account of Berlings
associations with the USSR; the 1st Polish Army was little
more than a puppet wing of Stalins forces, and Berlings
perceived inaction during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising still
rankles a great many Poles.
Bielaski Bank B-2, ul. Bielaska 10. Few remnants
of the Uprising are more conspicuous than the hulking
shell on ul. Bielaska. Its got quite a history. The site was
originally home to a mint, but that found itsel f demolished
to make way for the Warsaw division of the Imperial Bank of
Russia. Designed by Leontij Nikoajewicz Benois, a rector of
the Fine Arts Academy in St Petersburg, construction began
in 1907 and went on for a further four years. Within another
four years the Russians had left, the collapse of the Empire
seeing all Tsarist subjects head back east with their tails
between their legs. The Poles took over the building, first
employing it as the National Treasury, then establishing it
as the headquarters of Bank Polski in 1926. The structure
became a key strategic target during the Warsaw Uprising,
and on capture served as a base for Polish insurgents.
Smashed to pieces by German bombs the building was
left to rot in the decades that followed. Originally slated to
house the Warsaw Uprising Museum, the bank was subject
to legal wrangles that saw that idea bite the dust. Recently
Belgian property developer Ghelamco redeveloped the
site as an office complex that opened last fall. According
to plans the six-floor building expose sparts of the walls
of the ancient mint.
Execution Sites. The fall of communism brought with
it a huge desire to commemorate the Uprising, which had
hitherto been largely erased from Polish history by anti-
nationalist communist censors. Now memorial plaques and
tablets abound around Warsaw and though they tend to be
in Polish only, it doesnt take long to get the hang of them;
on the whole theyll display the date and number of people
executed by the Nazis.
Monument to the Warsaw Uprising (Pomnik
Powstania Warszawskiego) B-2, Pl. Krasiskich. It
was only with the regime close to collapse that this uncon-
ventional, not to say controversial monument was unveiled.
Completed in 1989 and designed by Wincent Kucma, it
depicts a group of insurgents in battle, and another faction
retreating into the sewers.
Warsaw Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstan-
ia Warszawskiego) D-3, ul. Grzybowska 79, tel.
(+48) 22 539 79 33, www.1944.pl. Opened in 2004,
this remains one of Polands best museums. Packed with
interactive displays, photographs, video footage and
miscellaneous exhibits its a museum thats guaranteed
to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram
power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several
levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of
the Uprising (provided they dont make any wrong turns,
alas, a common mistake).
Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your tour
accompanied by the background rattle of machine guns,
dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Different halls
focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; walk through
a replica radio station, or a covert printing press.
The mezzanine level features film detailing the first month
of battle, before which visitors get to clamber through a
mock sewer. The final sections are devoted to the cre-
ation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance,
and a particularly poignant display about the destruction
of the city; take time to watch the black and white before
and after shots of important Warsaw landmarks being
systematically obliterated by the Nazis as punishment.
Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-
inducing 5 minute 3-D aerial film which took 2 years
to make and used old pictures and new technology to
recreate a picture of the desolation of liberated Warsaw
in March 1945. There is also an exact replica of a B24
Allied plane once used to make supply drops over the
besieged city. A viewing platform and peace garden
wrap up this high impact experience Q Open 10:00 -
18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. From September
Open 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/10z (children under
7 free). Mon free. Audio guides for 10z per person. Film
costs 2z per person. From September Sun free.
Uprising Museum
Skaryszewski Park H-2. While the allied air lift to aid the
Uprising proved a disaster, the heroism of the Commonwealth
and Polish pilots who flew missions to relieve Warsaw cannot
be called into question. Standing in Skaryszewski Park on
Warsaws east bank is a memorial to commemorate these air-
men. It was here that a Liberator plane crash landed in 1944,
killing all but one of the seven crew on board. The sole survivor,
Henry Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the monument in 1988, and today
it is the sight of the British Embassys annual Remembrance
service. In 2000 Lloyd Lyne, a retired farmer, was presented
with a recovered piece of the plane by Queen Elizabeth II.
The Little Insurgent Monument (Pomnik Maego
Powstaca) B-2, ul. Podwale. The communist authori-
ties continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Up-
rising, though by the early 80s cracks in their resolve were
beginning to show. On October 1, 1983, the most poignant
of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the
Barbakan. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by
collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation
shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and
weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the
children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the
figure is inspired by the story of 13 year old corporal Antek,
himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.
Wol a Massacre Statue (Pomni k Pami ci
Ludnoci Woli Wymordowanej w Czasie Powstan-
ia 1944) D-2, Pl. Solidarnoci. No other event captures
the brutality of the Uprising better than the Wola Massacre.
Between August 5 and August 6 the Nazis embarked on a
savage bloodletting in an attempt to batter the Poles into
submission. Led by Heinz Reinfarth and Oskar Dirlewanger, a
despicable man with a history of sex crimes against minors,
German units executed approximately 40,000 civilians in
the Wola area of Warsaw. The massacre only came to a
halt when Hitler himself intervened and declared all civilians
be sent to concentration camps instead. While Dirlewanger
was beaten to death by Poles after the war, Reinfarth and
countless others evaded justice. The senseless slaughter
is commemorated by an impressive monument dating from
2006, designed by Ryszard Stryjecki and found practically
opposite the Ibis hotel on Solidarnoci.
WARSAW UPRISING
Pasta B-3, ul. Zielna 37, www.pastadlamiasta.pl. A real
city landmark, and unmistakable thanks to the great big red
and white P attached to its roof. That P was a favoured sign
of the insurgents, and the buildings importance to the Rising
should not be underestimated. Built between 1904 and 1910
this weird tower like structure - ramparts et al - operated as a
telecommunications centre, a function it continued to serve
under the Nazis. Heavily defended by bunkers and guard
posts it was besieged for twenty two days by the Kiliski
battalion of the Home Army before finally surrendering on the
22nd. In 2000 Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek handed steward-
ship of the building to a combatants association.
Prudential Tower B-3, ul. witokrzyska. The first
building in Warsaw to surpass fi fteen floors. Built using
1,250,000 bricks Warsaws first true skyscraper became
a major point of attack on opening day of the Rising, the
symbolic meaning of a Polish flag on Polands tallest structure
not lost on the insurgents. The Nazis shelled it heavily, and
though it was gutted its prototype steel skeleton refused
to topple. After the war the tower was given a thinner look,
and for decades operated as the Hotel Warszawa. Closed
in 2003, and currently in various stages of reconstruction
courtesy of the Likus Group, the tower is due to be given
a refit and new lease on life as both a hotel and top-class
apartment block.
Ruins of the Rising. Between 1939 and 1944 over
84 percent of Warsaw was completely destroyed, with the
city centre bearing the brunt of the damage. In spite of the
Herculean rebuilding work that has since taken place, bullet
scarred walls on pre-war tenements can still be found in
relative abundance round the few parts of the centre that
escaped total destruction. Perhaps most obvious of all is
the building on ul. Walicw, featuring shell-pocked facades
and a wall half-tumbling down.
Sapper Monument (Pomnik Chwaa Saperom)
H-3, Park Marszaka Edwarda migego-Rydza. De-
signed by Stanisaw Kulon and unveiled on May 8th, 1975,
the monument to the sappers is a typically formidable
piece of 70s brutalism. Designed to evoke the explosive
blast of a landmine this seventeen metre high monstrosity
commemorates the sappers who died defusing mines and
booby traps in the years after the war. Free Warsaw will
never forget those who, with their pain and blood, started
the work on her reconstruction reads the accompanying
plaque. The names and units of the sappers who died are
listed on the pylons, as well as Polish-language descriptions
of the hazardous work they undertook.
Old Town Square, 1945
Warsaw Uprising: Aug 1 - October 3
97
96
JEWISH WARSAW JEWISH WARSAW
At the time Hitler chose to expand Germanys territories
under the odious excuse of providing living space for the
German people, Warsaws Jewish population numbered
350,000 and growing. Neither pogroms nor the occasional
boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling
in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger
Jewish community. Yet within six years Warsaws thriving
Jewish scene was all but wiped from the map, with over
90 percent perishing either in the Ghetto that or the gas
chambers of Treblinka.
Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare Poland was
seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced
into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the
inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant
contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of
Poland, a contribution that would eventually be extinguished
by the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis. When Warsaw
fell following a brief yet brutal siege the citys ancient Jewish
population was damned to destruction. By 1940 Jews were
forcibly penned into an area that already housed most of
the Jewish population. On March 27, 1940, the Judenrat, a
Jewish council answerable to the Nazis whims, was ordered
to build a wall around the ghetto and a resettlement deadline
of October 15 was handed to the citys Jews. Failure to move
into the assigned area was punishable by death. Spanning
18 kilometres and enclosing 73 of Warsaws 1,800 streets,
the area was carved into a small and large ghetto, the two
linked by a wooden bridge standing over ul. Chodna (E-2).
Today an installation titled Footbridge of Memory stands at
this spot, with optical fibers illuminating the former handrails
over the street at night.
From the beginning conditions in the city were harsh; recov-
ered Nazi files show that while ethnic Germans were granted
a food allowance totalling 2,613 calories per day, Jews and
other groups deemed sub-human were expected to survive
on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black market supported by
a smuggling network ran rife, with some 80 percent of the
food in the ghetto supplied through illegal means. Still it was
not enough and as the noose tightened starvation became
the principal enemy. In 1941 over 100,000 died in this way,
their bodies often left to rot in the streets. Of the 800 ghettos
scattered around the Third Reich Warsaw was the largest
and also the deadliest. At its zenith approximately 380,000
residents found themselves squashed into the ghetto, with
an average of eight people to a room. Yet amid this sea of
suffering a remarkable social scene flourished, as proved
by the meticulous ghetto diaries kept by Emanuel Ringel-
blum. Although murdered by the Nazis in 1944 Ringelblum,
an intellectual and social activist, kept volumes of notes
documenting the day-to-day life of ghetto inhabitants. It is
from his painstaking notes we learn of the soup kitchens and
charities that existed, of the musical concerts and cabarets
and the fifty or so underground newspapers that circulated
amongst the masses.
The illusion of a self-contained cruel but surviving parallel
world was shattered in 1942 when the Wansee Conference
rubber-stamped plans for the final solution to the Jewish
question and the first deportations to death camps began
in July. Over the next few weeks around 265,000 Jews were
harried to a waiting area known as Umschlagplatz, from
which they were loaded into cattle wagons destined for the
Treblinka gas chambers. A year later a new action to thin
the ghetto was launched, and by April 1943 a final push
to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto began. For too
long the Jews had been limited to passive resistance, but
now with rumours circulating about death camps a band of
ill-equipped insurgents faced up to the full weight of the Nazi
military machine. Led by Mordechaj Anielewicz, the Jewish
Fighting Organization (OB) launched the Ghetto Uprising on
April 19, 1943. Numbering a few hundred the Jewish fighters
continued their dogged resistance, but faced with heavy artil-
lery and even Stuka Dive Bombers it was a doomed struggle.
Vicious street-to-street, house-to-house battles ensued, with
insurgents often burnt out of their boltholes by flamethrowers
and gas. On May 8 German forces surrounded the principal
command post of the rebels on ul. Mia 18 and rather than
face capture Anielewicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide.
By May 16 the Uprising was over, with German commander
Jurgen Stroop announcing, The former Jewish quarter of
Warsaw is no longer in existence. With the fighting over the
rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates either sent
to Treblinka or assigned to Gsiwka (ul. Gsia), a small
concentration camp. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews
survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side, but with the
war over and the vitriolic anti-Zionist policies of the post-war
government the majority sought a new life in Israel. Today
Warsaws Jewish population is estimated to stand at 2,000
and efforts are underway to gradually reintroduce the citys
hollowed out Jewish culture.
Heroes in Horror
Sometimes it takes tragedy to create heroes. This is never
truer than with the Holocaust, a black time where Nazi terror
was answered with dignity and courage. Anti-Semitism was
common in pre-war Poland (in fact so clear was this divide
that the inter-war years saw seated segregation in such grand
institutions as the local university) and under Nazi occupation
collaboration was commonplace - denouncing Jews and re-
vealing hiding places brought considerable financial reward.
Worse still, there were several instances of Poles actively
taking part in pogroms and Jew hunts, the most notorious
occurring in the town of Jedwabne in 1941. It was here on
the 10th of July that a mob of Poles rounded up nearly 400
Jews and marching them to a barn which was subsequently
torched. Its a shameful episode in Polish history, and one
immortalized in Jan Grosss book Neighbours. Neverthe-
less, such events should be offset by stories of those who
risked life and limb to help the persecuted. Poland was at
the forefront of Nazi terror, and the punishment for shelter-
ing Jews was death. The policy was unique in the occupied
territories, and ruthlessly enforced. Even so, it is estimated
that over three million Poles actively helped Jews to survive
and Yad Vashem has recognized over 6,000 Poles as being
Righteous Among Nations - more than in any other country.
In Rozwadow Dr.Eugeniusz Lazowski, a graduate of Warsaw
University, is credited with saving approximately 8,000 Jews after
putting his medical knowledge to use. Having injected the towns
Jews with a benign form of typhus he then informed the Nazis
that an epidemic was at large. Terrified that it would spread, the
Nazis quarantined the town and left it to its own devices. Known
as the Polish Schindler, Lazowski saved 12 ghetto communi-
ties in this crafty manner. I was not able to fight with a gun or
a sword, Lazowski said. But I was able to find a way to scare
the Germans. In Krakow a gentile pharmacist named Tadeusz
Pankiewicz was given special dispensation to remain in the ghetto
and exploited this to lend aid to the Jews. Medicine and vaccines
were distributed for free, and his pharmacy - now a museum -
came to double as a centre of underground activity. Regarded
as a hero, Pankiewiczs role in the Holocaust is remembered in
Thomas Kenneallys epic Schindlers List.
Another doctor, Irena Sendler, is credited with rescuing over
2,500 Jews from the Warsaw ghetto. Born in 1910, Sendler had
a long history of sympathising with the plight of the Jews and
was suspended for three years from Warsaw University after
voicing her vociferous opposition to segregated benches and
was active in the underground the moment the war broke out.
Aided by her colleagues she forged over 3,000 documents to
help Jewish families, and later headed the childrens section of
Zegota - a secret organization that was a Council to Aid Jews.
Using the fierce-looking court building on Solidarnosci as her
bridge from the ghetto to freedom she smuggled countless
children inside parcels and boxes. The children were then sent
to live in convents and rectories, but not before she recorded
their identities in a glass jar she kept buried at home. Her actions
aroused the attention of the Gestapo, and in 1943 she was
arrested, tortured and sentenced to death. A bribe from Zegota
saved her life, but nonetheless she was left unconscious in a
forest, with both her arms and legs broken. She was officially
declared dead by the Germans, and spent the rest of the war in
hiding. But even peace brought no respite; she was persecuted
by the communist authorities on account of her wartime rela-
tions with the exiled government, and faced constant harass-
ment. In 2003 Pope John Paul II sent her a letter praising her
for courage, and later that year she was awarded the Order of
the White Eagle - Polands highest civilian decoration. She died
in 2008, though even now remains a target of hate for some; in
July 2010 her grave was vandalized with the words Jews Out.
Finally, Jan Karski is remembered in the history books as the man
who tried to stop the Holocaust. Born in Lodz in 1914, Karskis
photographic memory and fluent command of foreign languages
caught the attention of the Polish diplomatic services, landing him
prestigious posts abroad. With Europe gearing up for war Karski
joined the horse artillery, with his unit captured by the Red Army.
Karski avoided death in the forests of Katyn when he escaped
from a train transporting him to a POW camp and headed to
Warsaw to join the Polish underground. Realizing the value of his
remarkable memory his superiors employed Karski as a courier, a
perilous position that involved crossing frontlines in order to swap
information with allies. One such foray saw him captured by the
Gestapo while crossing the Slovakian Tatra Mountains. He slit
his wrists following an intense bout of torture, and was locked in
a closely guarded hospital in Nowy Sacz. Determined not to lose
their star courier a crack team of Polish troops broke him out and
Karski resumed his duties. In 1942 he was chosen to undertake
a daring mission to meet Wladyslaw Sikorski - Prime Minister of
Polands government-in-exile - in London, the purpose being to
reveal the extent of German atrocities in occupied Poland. To gather
information he was smuggled into the Warsaw ghetto and given
a graphic tour of the hunger and horror manifesting behind the
walls. The experience proved so powerful that Karski later found
himself questioning his own memory and decided a second visit
was in order to convince him that what he had seen was real. This
time, disguised as a Ukrainian guard, he infiltrated a transit camp
in Izbica and witnessed random brutalities as well as cattle wagon
transports leading Jews to the gas chambers. He successfully
made it to England and was granted an audience with foreign
secretary Antony Eden as well as Sikorski and the leader of the
Jewish Bun. Maddeningly, his testimonies fell on deaf ears. In the
following decades his attempt to stop the Holocaust was allowed
to gather dust, and only came to public attention with the release
of the 1978 epic film Shoah. He died in 2000, eight years after his
Jewish/Polish wife, herself a Holocaust survivor, committed suicide.
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Goda Tencer - Szurmiej
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Goda Tencer -
Szurmiej
Royal Route
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99
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TREBLINKA JEWISH WARSAW
What to See
A Footbridge of Memory D-2, Intersection of ul.
Chodna and ul. elazna. One of the most recognisable
images of the Warsaw Ghetto is that of the footbridge
constructed over ul. Chodna to connect the large and small
ghettos. To commemorate that spot is one of Warsaws
newest memorials: a pair of metal poles connected via
optical fibers which, after the sun sets, project the shape of
the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by Tomasz
Tusch-Lec and installed in September 2011, the memorial
also has viewing windows inside the poles where visitors can
flip through images of life in the Warsaw Ghetto.
Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz ydowski) D-1,
ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.
beisolam.jewish.org.pl. A beauti ful and poignant place
to visi t. The cemetery was ori ginall y founded in 1806
and currently houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst
those buri ed here are Ludwi k Zamenhof, i nventor of
the international language Esperanto. Q Open 10:00 -
17:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 8z.
Jewish Historical Institute (ydowski Instytut
Historyczny im. Emanuela Ringelbluma) B-2, ul.
Tomackie 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl.
A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institution
in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and
culture of the Polish Jews. This amazing building houses
permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and
religious Jewish li fe in the country from its beginnings to
the annihilation during WWII and beyond. As well as an
excellent bookshop, the institutes museum, opened in
1948, features a large interactive display in the entrance
hall that allows its users to find out about Jewish li fe in any
part of the country, an extraordinary Warsaw Ghetto exhi-
bition, religious treasures, an archive and a small cinema.
Particularly poignant is the collection of photographs taken
in the Warsaw Ghetto by Heinz Jost, a German innkeeper
who served in the German army and whose photographs
speak volumes about the era. Essential visiting. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 10/5z.
Monument to the Ghetto Heroes (Pomnik Bohat-
erw Getta) A-1, ul. Zamenhofa. Designed by Natan
Rappaport, the monument pays tribute to the heroes of the
Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Found between (E-1) ul. Anielewicza,
Zamenhofa, Lewartowskiego and Karmelicka it is here that
the heaviest fighting took place. In an ironic quirk, the stone
cladding on the monument was originally ordered from
Sweden by Hitler for a victory arch.
Noyk Synagogue (Synagoga Noykw) E-3, ul.
Twarda 6, tel. (+48) 22 620 43 24, www.warszawa.
jewish.org.pl. Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-
Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue
to survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between
1977 and 1983. Now open for worship. Q Open 09:00 -
20:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat. No visiting during
services. Groups of more than ten should reserve in advance.
Admission 6z.
Traces of the Ghetto. Following the Ghetto Uprising the
whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you duck into
the courtyard at (E-3) ul. Sienna 55 you will see a remaining
part of the ghetto wall complete with a commemorative
plaque. Somewhat impressively, the local government have
decided to honour Warsaws Holocaust history by introducing
a ghetto trail. Developed with the help of the Jewish Histori-
cal Institute the route has seen the boundary of the former
Ghetto outlined on pavements, as well as the appearance
of 21 dual language information boards positioned in places
of particular interest. Maps of the ghetto are available from
the Jewish Historical Institute for 10zl.
Umschlagplatz E-1. Found on ul. Stawki (E-1), close to
the intersection with ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bleak,
slightly disappointing monument marking the spot where
around 300,000 Jews were loaded on cattle wagons bound
for Treblinka. The Nazi commandant in charge of the deporta-
tions lived directly oppo site on ul. Stawki 5/7. Lying between
Umschlagplatz and the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes lies
the legendary monument labelled Mia 18 (note: this is not
the address where you can find the monument). Essentially
no more than a symbolic grassy knoll, it marks the spot from
where the Ghetto Uprising was directed.
For the overwhelming majority of Warsaws wartime Jews
their journey was destined to end in one place, a hitherto
unknown village called Treblinka. Set 100 kilometres north
east of Warsaw this small rural community would find itself
unwittingly thrust into the eye of the Holocaust, its name
forever etched in mankinds roll of shame.
Getting There
Treblinka remains a backwater town, and as such travellers
are going struggle to reach it. Put simply, either hire a car
and fire up the GPS, or contact one of the Warsaw-based
tour companies listed in the Sightseeing section who will be
happy to tailor a visit for you. Alternatively, hire a six person
minibus for 250z - call 604 89 63 97 for further details.
History
Split into two separate sections, Treblinka I and Treblinka
II, Treblinka I was originally established in the summer
of 1941 and functioned as a Polish slave labour camp.
Treblinka II, the death camp, opened the following year,
receiving its first human cargo on July 22, 1942. It was
designed for the sole purpose of murder, a function it ful-
filled well. Measuring 400 by 600 metres and surrounded
with barbed wire fences and watchtowers, the camp was
carefully blended into the heavily wooded landscape in an
effort to mask its existence. Consisting of a barracks, an
armoury and storage areas, the camp also had a fenced
off living area housing 1,000 Jews employed to clear bod-
ies, hammer out teeth and shave hair. It was also home to
the reception area, where cattle wagons loaded with Jews
would screech to a halt. Built to resemble a legitimate train
station, it was decorated with clocks, timetables, posters
and even an infirmary replete with a Red Cross banner.
In actual fact the infirmary was no more than a sinister
faade to an execution pit, used to murder prisoners too
weak to march to the gas chambers.
Having been stripped naked, arrivals at Treblinka I were
then herded up the tube, a fenced off path leading to the
shower block. It was here that prisoners were ushered into
gas chambers disguised as bathhouses. Carbon monoxide
would then be piped through showerheads, taking as long
as half an hour to asphyxiate those locked inside. At the
height of the killing process up to 20 railway carriages could
be processed within a period of one to two hours. At first
bodies were simply buried in mass graves but by 1943, in
an attempt to conceal all traces of genocide, corpses were
cremated on massive pyres.
Several escape attempts were launched by the permanent
staff of Jewish prisoners, with the biggest coming on August
2, 1943. Having obtained a key to the armoury, a core of
around 70 prisoners aimed to storm the Nazi barricades,
liberate the other prisoners and flee to the forests. The plan
was disrupted when an SS officer, Kurt Kuttner, noticed the
rebels raiding the munitions store. He was killed on the spot,
but the shots alerted the other guards who launched a swift
counter-action. In the brief but fierce gun battle that followed
many buildings were torched, but only a handful of prisoners
succeeded in escaping.
Following the uprising, and a similar one at Sobibor, Himmler
took the decision to close down the Aktion Reinhard death
camps. By October 4, 1943 Treblinka was levelled, reforested
and a family of Ukrainian peasants re-settled on the adjacent
farmland. Although it is impossible to place an accurate
figure on the number of people slaughtered, conservative
estimates suggest that anything from 700,000 to 900,000
people were murdered during the camps existence. Of the
number of Jews who passed through its gates it is thought
that fewer than 100 lived to see the end of the war.
Following the war several German and Ukrainian guards
were charged with crimes relating to their time at Treblinka.
Most escaped with light sentences ranging from three to
twelve years. The camp commander, Franz Stangl, fled to
Syria and from there to Brazil, until he was finally extradited
to face justice in 1970. He died in prison the following year,
apparently unrepentant.
What to See
What is there to see? Well, not much. The Nazis did a deft
job of erasing their crimes, and visitors will require a vivid
imagination so as to picture what was. Nevertheless, with
some prior knowledge your bumpy journey will be ultimately
rewarded; what Treblinka lacks in physical sites it makes up
for with sheer skin-prickling menace, and a trip out here is
sure to leave you pondering for some time.
Stock up on literature at the car park hut before making your
way to the small exhibition house. Set across two rooms visi-
tors will find a series of items recovered from the site - torah
scrolls, cutlery, coins and other keepsakes - as well as a few
period photographs illustrating life at the camp. However,
the real pull here is the scale model, an intricate work which
really brings the grounds to life - details here include a zoo
built for the enjoyment of the SS, a Disney-style stone tower
and the neatly trimmed flower beds past which Jews would
have filed on their way to the gas chambers. Its a fascinating
work, and one which provides plenty of pause for thought.
Back outside, a trail of symbolic train tracks show the route
trains from Warsaw would have followed before finally termi-
nating at Treblinka platform. For the Jews crammed inside
the cattle wagons this represented the last stop in their
persecution. Then, directly up ahead, comes the climax of
the camp - marking the execution grounds lie hundreds of
jagged memorial stones, each one inscribed with the name
of a lost community. Its among these - to the left of your
approach - youll find the only stone dedicated to a person.
That man is Janusz Korczak, a pedagogue and author who
famously turned down safe passage from the ghetto in order
to stay with the orphaned children entrusted in his care. His
most famous work is the childrens tale King Matt the First
(Krl Maciu Pierwszy), the adventure story of a young king.
As well as telling the story of how the young king deals with the
challenges of power in a bygone age, it is also a thinly veiled
representation of historical events in Poland and describes
a number of the social reforms the young king introduces,
many targeting children and many of which Korczak himself
introduced at his orphanage. While some of the language might
be considered politically incorrect 90 years on it is a fascinating
book and one that children today can still enjoy immensely.
Marking the site of the gas chamber stands an overpowering
monument designed by Franciszek Duszenki, a message in
front of it simply stating: Never Again. Its an eerie experi-
ence, and the sense of evil palpable. However, there is also
more. Unknown to many, a second camp also functioned
at Treblinka, a labour camp primarily populated by Poles.
Continuing through the route cut through the forest, a stony
path leads past a concrete guard bunker before culminating
at the vast gravel pit where up to 2,000 Poles were forced into
back breaking work. In the field further on concrete flooring
and some foundations mark the outline of former prisoner
barracks, while a number of crosses denote what was once
the execution grounds. Ultimately haunting, Treblinka is a
must see for anyone with a passing interest in modern his-
tory - absent are the endless exhibits of Auschwitz, yet even
without these this place has a high impact factor which will
leave visitors silent.
The Museum of the History of Polish Jews
(Muzeum Historii ydw Polskich) C-3, ul.
Anielewicza 6, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 00, www.jew-
ishmuseum.org.pl. This place promises to be one of
the citys biggest, best and most anticipated museums
when it officially opens in December 2013, but already
you can get inside the new copper and glass building
designed by Finnish architect Rainer Mahlamki and
experience exhibitions, film screenings and installations
dedicated to Jewish history in Poland - consider it a sneak
peek of the soon-to-be-completed museum. It has been
built at vast expense (Polands wealthiest citizen, oil
mogul Jan Kulczyk, contributed 20 million zotys alone)
in what was once the Jewish Ghetto during World War II
and the final product will tell the story of Jews in Poland,
which was once home to the largest Jewish population
in the world. Prior to World War II the country was home
to 3.3 million Jews, and a third of Warsaws population
was Jewish. More than 90 percent perished in the war,
leaving just a small community remaining. The exhibitions
will cover 4,000 square metres across eight different
galleries highlighting 1,000 years of Jewish history, and
more than 120 international scholars were consulted to
create the various historical features (we think its safe
to say that the painted ceiling and timber framed roof of
a 17th-century wooden synagogue that was recreated
with traditional tools and materials will be a standout).
There will also be a centre for genealogy, making the
tracing of relatives easier than ever before. Though the
multimedia Core Exhibition is currently being installed
and wont be available until the museums opening, you
can keep track of the progress online by visiting their
website and Facebook page. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Tue. Admission is as follows: Walk with a guide
and movie 9/5zl; temporary exhibition 9/5 zl; all of the
above 15/7zl.
Museum of Polish Jews
101
100
AZIENKI AZIENKI
Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and
cement has clearly never been to the citys lung, the incom-
parable azienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glorious, 17th
century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels
in Polands crown, which might explain why half of Warsaw
chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though,
for so big is azienki that it never gives the impression of be-
ing crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always
be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere.
Belvedere Palace (Belweder) G-5, ul. Belwederska
56. Head next for the Belvedere Palace residence of the
Polish President from 1918 to 1995 (Presidents Aleksander
Kwani ewski and Lech Kaczyski opting to li ve in the
Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie) this is
once again the Warsaw residence of the Polish president
(now Bronisaw Komorowski). Built in 1694 but thoroughly
remodelled in 1818, the building is predictably off limits. For
the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo
opportunities you should look at it from Al. Ujazdowskie: it is
a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium
and oversized Corinthian columns.
Botanical Garden (Ogrd Botaniczny) G- 4, Al.
Ujazdowskie 4, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.
uw.edu.pl. Part of the University of Warsaw the gardens have
the usual collection of greenhouses with exotic, weird and
wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in
the crowds during the summer are the stunning rose gardens
just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full
bloom the gardens are the preferred subject matter of the
students from the nearby art college who set up their easels
and paints early and stay until the guards kick them out at
sunset. Indeed, given such cracking scenery it is tempting to
find a bench and do the same. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00. From September Open 10:00 - 19:00. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Glass house open Sun only
10:00 - 17:00. Closed from September 15. Admission 6/3z.
Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl (Pomnik
Chopina i witynia Diany) G-4. On entering the park
proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument,
sculpted by Witold Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It
depicts Chopin sitting right here in azienki, next to a willow
tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII, and
the one we admire today went up in 1958. During the summer
impressive concerts take place around the statue almost
every Sunday. Almost hidden in the trees a few metres from
Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the
public), an 1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood.
Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings here such
as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water
Tower. None are currently open to the public.
azienki Park (Park azienkowski) G-4, ul. Agrykoli
1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.
pl. The name azienki means baths and is derived from the
parks centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on
the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century
as a private bathhouse for Stanisaw Herakliusz Lubomirski,
owner of the adjacent Ujazdw Castle and much of the sur-
rounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The
bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisaw
August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private
residence (and taking the name Palace on the Island). It
was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as
a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out
to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz.
Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer
houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and
theatres, azienki offers much to see and to make the best
of it you should plan to spend a full day here.

One word of warning however before you pack a picnic and
the cricket set: azienki, for all its charms, is further evidence
of the fact that many Central Europeans have never quite
grasped the idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly
kept grass at every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up games of
cricket, softball, football or whatever else it is people get up
to in parks in the western world, azienki takes a very stern
look but dont touch attitude when it comes to its lawns. If
you dont believe us, try sitting on a azienki lawn and see
what happens. That said, the park has recently added two
zones where youre allowed to have a picnic. Progress! Q
Open from dawn till dusk.
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship (Muzeum
owiectwa i Jedziectwa) H-4, ul. Szwoleerw 9,
tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum.warszawa.pl.
North of the Palace on the Island, the Museum of Hunting
& Horsemanship is worth a quick visit. Q Open 10:00 -
17:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 3-8/2-5z. Thu free.
Mylewicki Palace (Paac Mylewicki) H-4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. Make sure you have time too for a guided tour of
the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored Mylewicki
Palace. The residence of the kings nephew, Jzef Poniatowski,
the palace is very much as was complete with original murals,
furniture and art. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00.
Admission 6/4z. Thu free. Guided tours in English 70z per group.
Palace on the Island (Paac na Wyspie) G-4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. The Palace on the Island is azienkis raison
detre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman
Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a
residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisaw
August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial island
that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the
surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The faades
are uni fied by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two
floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues
of mythological figures. The northern faade is relieved by a
striking central portico, while the southern faades deep cen-
tral recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian columns. Today
a museum, almost all of the palace can be visited, including
the main reception room, Solomons Hall, decorated in the
most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings
depicting the History of Solomon. They were executed for
King Stanisaw Augustus in 1791-93 by Marcello Bacciarelli
and depicted the monarch himself as the biblical king. Many
of the kings personal rooms are also open to the public, set
in their original context. To get the best out of the palace we
recommend taking one of the excellent guided tours (call
ahead to book such a tour). Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 15/10z.
Free on Thurs and daily from 17:00-18:00. Guides 100z per
group up to 25 people. To arrange guide call 22 50 60 028.
Theatre on the Island (Amfiteatr) G-4. Crossing the
tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that leads along the
embankment until you hit the Amphitheatre, also known as the
Theatre on the Island. Unfortunately it is closed through the
end of the year, but you can still marvel at this building which
was built to resemble the amphitheatre at Herculaneum. When
open the theatre hosts productions throughout the summer,
though unless you fancy seeing Henry V in Polish these will
hold little interest for foreign visitors. (There are exceptions:
ballet and contemporary dance sometimes get put on here).
It is enough just to admire the setting before heading for one
of the kitsch (one features an enormous swan) but irresistible
gondolas that ferry up and down the lake during the warmer
days. A short trip costs 8/6z per person, and trips depart
throughout the day - you may have to wait for the boat to fill
up before the gondolier sets off however.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/CSW)
(Centrum Sztuki Wspczesnej Zamek Ujazdowski)
G-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw.
art.pl. A castle of some description has been on found on this
site since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s), but the
Ujazdowski Castle we see today was completed in a baroque
style in 1730 for Stanisaw Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was his
bathhouse that later became the Palace on the Island and gave
azienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived two centuries
before being gutted by fire during WWII, and was indeed lucky
to escape total destruction: the retreating Nazis actually tried
to blow it to pieces, as they did a number of azienkis finest
buildings. But - as is so often the case - what the Nazis couldnt
do the communists could, and though the original walls and
foundations remained structurally sound in the 1950s Polands
communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of the
building and place a military theatre on the site. Common sense
prevailed however, and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its
original plans. It today plays host to three large exhibition halls
dedicated to showcasing the very best of contemporary art
inside; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring
the work of Polands leading contemporary artists here. Worthy
and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very
good bookshop and a caf, which has a terrace whose views
over the park, Warsaw and what appears to be half of Poland
are jaw dropping. One not to miss. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri
12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
White House & Orangery (Biay Dom i Stara
Pomaraczarnia) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506
01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Not quite as grand as
the Belvedere but equally impressive is the little White House a
gorgeous summer house built in 1774 for the kings sisters which
displays a fine collection of period furniture and decorations
(note that it reopens April 18). A few steps away is the impres-
sive Old Orangery, one of very few surviving court theatres
in the world. It dates from 1774 and is still used today to host
chamber concerts, as well as being a popular wedding venue
for Warsaws wealthy. Part of the building houses a museum of
sculpture. From here head back past the White House, resist
the temptation to head straight for the Palace on the Island and
instead head south, towards the New Orangery. Built in cast
iron and glass it was designed by Jzef Orowski and opened in
1861. It is home to the upmarket Belvedere restaurant, which
has been closed for renovations but thankfully reopens again
on April 5. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admis-
sion 10/5z. Thu free. Guided tours in English 70z per group.
Any number of buses stop in front of the parks three
main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos.
116, 166, 180 and 195. From the city centre however
perhaps the easiest way of reaching azienki is to take
a tram from Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100
metres along Bagatela to the parks southern entrance,
in front of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the
park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of
maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations.
There is also a very good azienki complex map (again,
in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from
the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the
park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on
Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or
not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees,
at the vast artificial lake in the parks centre, straddled
by the magni ficent Palace on the Island. In doing so
however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try
to circumnavigate the park instead.
While you can buy tickets for each azienki attraction
individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or
two-days combined ticket which offers single-access
to a chunk of the attractions (Ujazdowski Castle, The
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship and the Botanical
Garden are not among them). A one-day ticket is 25/12z,
two-day tickets 30/17z.
Getting to azienki
Mariokol, pl.wikipedia.org
103
102
WILANW WILANW
It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history
stretches no further back than the communist post-war
era and that of WWII when the city was effectively wiped
from the map of Europe. But that would be to only under-
stand a small part of this citys and countrys history. The
nations capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th
century and at one time was the centre of the burgeoning
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over
200 years and whose territory at once stretched from the
Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day
Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so
much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places
to experience what this must have been like more than at
Wilanows palace and gardens.
The Polish Versailles is just one of the many fitting monikers
applied to this splendid late 17th-century Palace which can
be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanw, 10 kilometres
south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come to
soak up the capitals lavish culture and wish to understand
a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanw is more than
just a Palace - it represents an era from which much has
been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of
buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this is
one of Polands greatest national treasures.The sprawling
45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting
the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing
boat on the Palaces lake. If the weathers good and youve
got time to spare, its easy to spend an entire and thoroughly
rewarding day here.
History
Wilanw gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which
Wilanw Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th
century as Milanw, the then tiny village changed hands
several times before being bought in the 17th century by
the family of Stanisaw Leszczyski. Leszczyski began
building a Palace here, but the project was halted by the
Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the
region by the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanw was
bought by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat
away from Warsaw, and he ordered a new Palace to be built
on the site. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the
name was soon polonised to the one its known by today.
A brick manor house was built in 1680, expanding in two
stages into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under
the supervision of Agostino Locci to his own design. It is
within the central part of the palace where you will see the
living quarters of King Jan III Sobieski and his French queen
consort, Marie (or Marysieka as she was affectionately
called by Sobieski and still is by Poles today) in what is the
original part of the palace.
After Jan III Sobieskis death in 1696, his widow returned
to France and the palace through their sons became the
property of Elzbieta Sieniawska. She continued to develop
the palace most notably the two wings which were built in the
years 1720-1729. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent
owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the palace
in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a royal resi-
dence again in the early 1730s during the reign of August II the
Strong. Over the next two hundred years the palace became
the property of a succession of the most important Polish
families including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, Potockis
and Branickis and each left their mark as they expanded and
developed the property. One of its most enlightened residents
was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in the early 19th century,
at a time when Poland as a country ceased to exist because
of the Russian/Prussian/Austrian partition, made his collec-
tion of art and access to the royal apartments of King Jan III
Sobieski available to the public. Keep an eye out for the words
Cunctis patet ingressus on the palace floor signifying that
the palace and its collection were open to all.
The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and sur-
vived the war virtually intact although its collections were
seriously looted. Confiscated by Polands post-war Com-
munist government, Wilanw became part of the National
Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated during
the 1950s and early 1960s, opening its doors to the public
again in 1962. Today it is the subject of a 32 million zloty
revitalisation program which is overseeing conservation
work in the royal apartments and archaeological research
of the area. The gardens have also recently been restored
to the splendour they enjoyed during Jan III Sobieskis time.
The Palace and Gardens at Wilanow can be reached best
of all by bus or taxi directly from the city centre. The citys
metro system does run to a stop called Wilanowska but
this is about 5km from the palace and will involve taking
a bus from outside of the station.
By Bus
From Old Town:
From (B-2) Pl. Zamkowy take buses 116 or 180 Mon-Fri.
Journey takes about 30 minutes.
From Pl. Trzech Krzyy:
From (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyy take buses 116, 180 or
E-2. Journey takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops
can be found at the southern end of the square on Al.
Ujazdowskie.
From the centre:
From (B-4) outside the Cepelia store on Marszakowska
take bus 519.
From Warszawa Centralna train station:
Take bus 519, 525 or 700 from the southbound stop on
(A-4) ul. Chaubiskiego. Journey takes about 30 minutes.
All buses stop directly outside the palace gates.
By Taxi
At around 45-60z with a recommended company such
as Sawa Taxi (tel. 22 644 44 44), a taxi ride to Wilanw
is something of a false economy, taking more or less
the same time as the bus to get there. If you prefer the
comfort and privacy of your own car then also look for
ELE taxis parked around the city, including outside the
(A/B-4) main train station.
Getting to Wilanw
The Wilanw Palace Museum (Paac w
Wilanowie) ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48)
22 842 81 01, www.wilanow-palac.pl. The first mu-
seum at Wilanw was opened in 1805 by the palaces
owner at the time, Stanisaw Kostka Potocki. The current
museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the
Palaces interior, comes in two parts. Having bought your
ticket in the ticket office near the gate, enter the wing on
the right and descend the stairs. There you will have to
deposit your coat and place shoe covers on your shoes. It
is recommended that you pick up an audio guide, which is
available in a number of languages as well as English, as
there is very little description throughout the museum -
particularly in the Polish portrait gallery. Heading through
a small room containing some old royal coaches, head up
the stairs into the first part of the museum - The Polish
Portrait Gallery - featuring portraits from the 16th to 19th
century. Wander through room after room of portraits
of the rich and the powerful including some fascinating
Polish coffin portraits of important figures. If portraits
are your thing you will find this very interesting although
the lack of description and in some cases even the name
of the people portrayed is rather frustrating.
The tour leads you around the top of the house and then
downstairs once more where you will find yourself in the
residence of the palace. Featuring suits of armour, Etruscan
vases, a room featuring magnificent frescoes uncovered
during restoration work after the war, residential rooms,
an exceedingly rare 18th-century glass grandfather clock
and even a private chapel there is a lot to admire. There
are English language cards available in most rooms which
give you a basic description of what to look for. The central
part of the lower floor is the most impressive. It is here that
you will find the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski
and his wife while the wings house the apartments of the
subsequent owners of the palace. There are some lavish
touches to be seen throughout the lower level and it may be
of interest that the leadership of communist Poland would
often use the palace to accommodate foreign dignitaries.
Jimmy Carter once stayed here, while one of the beds had
to be especially adapted to sleep the rather tall Charles de
Gaulle when he visited. It is quite easy to spend a couple
of hours wandering around the palace but be warned that
it tends to fill with schoolchildren during the week and tour-
ists at the weekends so theres not really a best time to
visit. QOpen 09:30 - 16:00, Mon, Sat 09:30 - 18:00, Wed
09:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:30 - 18:00. Last entrance 1 hour
before closing. Admission 20/15z, Sun free, but you must
obtain an obligatory ticket for 0z (were unfortunately not
kidding). Audioguide (available in English, French, German,
Italian, Russian and Spanish) 12z.
The Wilanw Palace Museum
Lake & Island. Theres also a natural lake found behind
the Palace, where gondolas complete with gondoliers and
rowing boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the water
beginning towards the end of April (weather permitting). A
trip here will reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconis
strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to
the Parks island reveals a monument to the Polish soldier,
Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the
Duchy of Warsaw and who gave his life at Wilanw fighting
the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809. Q 7/5 z for
a place in a gondola; 20z per boat per half hour.
Park & Gardens. The 45 hectares that make up Wilanw
Park grew over the centuries according to the particular
fancies of its owners. The Parks present form dates from
the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during
the 1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Profes-
sor Gerard Cioek (1909-1966). Made up of a series of
individual gardens, the Park includes a two-level Baroque
garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English
landscaped park and the so called English-Chinese land-
scape park. The nearby Orangery and its garden serves as
a splendid venue for outdoor classical music concerts during
the summer season. The park near the Orangery, East, North
and Rose gardens and their associated architecture were
recently the subject of a major revitalisation program and
during work on the Baroque garden a series of archaeological
digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating
from the 12th century. Now the gardens have been restored
to their appearance during the time of King Jan III Sobieski.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 5/3z, Thu free. Note that an obligatory 0z ticket
is still required on Thursdays. Really.
Poster Museum (Muzeum Plakatu) ul. S. K.
Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.
postermuseum.pl. Housed inside the Palaces former indoor
riding area, the Poster Museum features two large halls full
of wonderful posters from all over the world. At over 55,000
pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be
found anywhere. The museum focuses on the artistic merits
of the posters rather than their documentary value and plays
host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. As a
The Wilanw Palace Museum,
author: Zbigniew Reszka
The Wilanw Palace Museum, author: Magdalena Kulpa
105
104
CHOPIN WILANW
contrast to the historic palace and collection of paintings next
door, this makes for interesting additional place to visit while
in Wilanw. Note that museum will reopen June 5 after it was
closed for a change of exhibitions. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon
12:00 - 16:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 10/7z, Mon free.
Potocki Mausoleum (Mauzoleum Potockich)
Wilanw Park. A tomb dedicated to Stanisaw Kostka Potocki
and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son
Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built
between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty
Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. It is
located in the park leading to Wilanw Palace and consists
of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the
crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner. On
the sarcophagus are the figures of the deceased and around
the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed.
SD Gallery (Galeria SD) ul. S. K. Potockiego 22,
tel. (+48) 783 40 77 70, www.galeriasd.pl. This small
collection of modern Polish art close to St. Annes Church
includes paintings and sculptures by many of the countrys
leading contemporary artists. Featuring some truly impres-
sive pieces of art, most of the work on display is available
for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
St. Annes Church (Koci w. Anny) ul. Kolegi-
acka 1, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.
pl. A church on this site dates back to the 14th century when
the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was
replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard
in the 16th century and it wasnt replaced with a brick one
until well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new
church was called St. Annes and was founded by Prince
August Adam Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki.
Czartoryskis grand-daughter, Al eksandra Lubormirska
Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799-
1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the
Virgin Mary in the main altar.
Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandras son August and his
wife extend the church to a design by Henri Marconi. The
church gets a Neo-Renaissance look and the marvellous
dome is added. In the gardens surrounding the church build-
ing you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Sta-
tions of the Cross while within the church, in the crypt under
the chapel, are the tombs of the Potocki family.
The church suffered damage during both world wars and was
even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who also
looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723
and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people
who hid them and these are now housed in the newly built
Third Millenium Tower.
The church is a particularly beautiful one to visit nowadays
thanks in no small part to the work of the parish priest
Bogusaw Bijak and it is protected as part of a complex of
parks, buildings and original roads running into the centre
of the city as a national Historic Memorial. QOpen 08:00
- 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please.
Restaurants
As well as a McDonalds, the option of bringing your own
picnic or running the gauntlet of the kitchen in the caf next
to the Palace, you may wish to sample one of the two of the
following restaurants.
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1. See Restaurants.
Restauracja Wilanw ul. S. K. Potockiego 27. See
Restaurants.
Jan Sobieski was born in
Olesko near Lwow (now
Ukrainian Lvi v) in 1629.
His father was a Polish-
Lithuanian nobleman who
ensured young Jan and
his brother received a first
class education and they
both went onto study at the Jagiellonian University in Krakow
before Jan travelled abroad. He studied military history and
tactics including significantly as it would turn out in Turkey
(as an envoy of King Jan II Casimir) where he learned the
Tartar language in the 1650s. Sobieski also spoke French,
German and Italian and during this time met major European
political figures including Louis II deBourbon, William of
Orange and Charles II, where it is clear that he learnt the
value of diplomacy as well as military might.
Jan Sobieski would have a lifelong love of France thanks
in part to his French wife Marie (or Marysienka as he
fondly named her) whom he married in 1665 and fathered
14 children with (of whom 8 survived).
Having returned to Poland Sobieski went on to serve with
distinction in the Battle of Warsaw (1656), where he led a
Tartar cavalry regiment, and the Polish Swedish wars (1655-
1660) among others. In 1666 he sided with the king Micha
Korybut Winiowiecki during the Lubormirski rebellion and
added another major victory to his list by defeating the Turks
at the Battle of Chocim in 1673. It was this victory allied to
his reputation as a strong leader, astute military tactician
and a canny political knack that would result in him being
elected as Polish King the following year, in 1674.
Sobieski inherited a nation virtually penniless from 50
years of continuous war and set about stabilising the
countrys borders through treaties and strategic battles.
It is for this combination of wisdom and bravery that he
is well remembered today.
Sobieskis greatest moment, however, was to come in
1683. Having marched through most of the Balkans a
vast Turkish army was massed on the outskirts of Vienna
threatening to overwhelm the Christian world. Led by
King Jan III Sobieski a joint Polish/German/Austrian army
scored a magnificent victory in a daylong battle on 12
September 1683 vanquishing the Turks. Sobieski led a
charge of Polish hussars breaking the opposition lines
and sending the Turks into disarray. Sobieski entered
the abandoned tent of the Turkish commander Kara
Mustapha in the early evening signifying victory and parts
of that tent are today on display within Wilanow Palace.
The Turks were to name Sobieski The Lion of Lechistan
(Lechistan being an ancient name of Poland) while
Danzig astronomer Johannes Hevelius would name a
newly discovered constellation Scutum Sobiescianum
(Sobieskis Shield) after him, quite an accolade for a still
living, non-astronomer as was Sobieski.
The victory not only saved Christendom (Sobieski was
described as the saviour of European Christendom by
the Pope) but also made a lasting impact on European
food culture. According to urban legend pastries were cre-
ated baked in a shape designed to resemble Sobieskis
stirrups (beugel in Austrian), which supposedly evolved
to become the bagels we enjoy today.
Jan III Sobieski
2010 saw the country toast Chopi n wi th champagne;
Polands greatest composer, and Warsaws favourite son,
a man whose lent his name to everything from vodka to
airports (and even an asteroid). For 2010 marked the 200th
anniversary of Fryderyk Chopins birth and saw the city
celebrate his life with amongst other things the opening of
a fabulous new museum.
Chopin - Life & Times
And what a life it was. Of course, in the spirit of all the greats
theres a considerable element of mystery surrounding the
man. Say it very, very quietly, but theres even dispute as
to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was
born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could
be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of his
death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed to
know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper before
burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept he was
the son of a French expatriate some experts argue he was
the bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat. The truth has
been lost to time.
One thing we can be certain of, and thats his birthplace -
the town of elazowa Wola fifty kilometres west of Warsaw.
However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family
moving to Warsaw in 1811 after his father, a man whod
fought the Russians in the Napoleonic Wars, found a job as
a French tutor.
By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offing. The
young Frederic started learning piano at the age of four,
and by the age of eight had already performed at what
is now the Presidential Palace. Yet in spite of his obvious
tal ents applications for a state grant were repeatedl y
refused. Nevertheless, his childhood was happy, and the
gingerbread eating Frederic received gushing reviews in
local columns and press.
A diligent student he was educated at home for the first
13 years, before attending Warsaws Lyceum, and then
the Warsaw Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom
under its director, the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who
was wowed by Chopins musical mastery. He graduated from
the Conservatory in 1829, the same year he was to meet
Konstancha Gadkowska, and his unrequited love for her
inspired many of his early compositions.
Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling foreign
debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the
premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. Already recognised
as an amazing talent, Chopin started showing the signs of
illness that would continue to blight the rest of his life. A
keen traveller (on record is a tour of Europe undertaken in
1826 during which he visited Dresden, Krakw, Prague and
numerous other places as a tourist), Chopin set off to play
in Vienna in November 1830, following a farewell party in
a Wola tavern.
Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last taste
of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland had risen in re-
bellion against the ruling Russians. Dissuaded from joining
the uprising himself Chopin drew inspiration from events to
write his masterpiece, Revolution. Passages of his Stuttgart
diary record his torment: Oh God, do you exist? Or are you
yoursel f a Muscovite! Choosing to stay in exile Chopin
settled in playboy Paris where he was welcomed by Polish
migrs, as well as upcoming composers and high society.
His friends numbered Berlioz, Bellini (who he is buried next
to) and Mendelssohn, as well as high profile Poles like the
uncrowned King, Prince Adam Czartoryski and bard Adam
Mickiewicz, while his dapper dress and natural charms at-
tracted a string of adoring females.
Drawing on his Polish upbringing the 1830s saw Chopin
enjoy an impressively productive spell, composing a series
of acclaimed polonaises and mazurkas. Ill health followed
him however, so much so that when he was taken ill on a
trip to meet his parents in 1835 some Polish scandal sheets
reported him dead.
He wasnt, and the defining point of his life was to occur two
years later when he met the controversial author George
Sand (yes, thats a woman). His first impression is recorded
as being surprisingly acid: what an unpleasant woman, he is
known to have commented. Already secretly engaged to a 17
year old Polish girl, how Chopins life would have evolved if he
had never seen Sand again is open to speculation. Instead he
embarked on a torrid nine year affair with this classic scarlet
woman, with one stage of their rocky relationship marked by
a stint in an abandoned monastery on the island of Mallorca.
Racked with chronic lung problems and a near permanent
cough, the faltering affair span out of control when Sand, a
loose-moraled man-killer, serialised the novel Lucretia Flo-
riani in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish, asexual an-
tihero is commonly recognized as being a parody of Chopin.
Broke, ill and now broken-hearted, Chopin led an increasingly
miserable and secluded life. He finally passed away in his
Paris apartment aged just 39 - though just like his birth, his
death is equally contentious; some believe tuberculosis as
the cause of death, others a malady such as emphysema
or cystic fibrosis. If you believe the stories he carried a lock
of Sands hair till the day he died (though by the same token
he is also alleged to have carried an urn of Polish soil). Buried
in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on his insistence his
body was cut open (he was petrified of being buried alive)
and his heart later interned in a pillar of Warsaws Koci
witego Krzya. His funeral was as weird as his life, delayed
for two weeks while church authorities debated whether to
grant his wish and allow Mozarts Requiem to be sung at his
funeral (the point of contention being the presence of female
singers). Regarded as the pinnacle of the Romantic style his
music and legend survive to this day.
106 107
CHOPIN CHOPIN
What to See
The Chopin Family Drawing Room C-3, ul. Kra-
kowskie Przedmiecie 5, tel. (+48) 22 320 02 75,
www.chopin.museum. The young Chopin hopped around
three separate residences in Warsaw, though only one
will be of use to visitors. Saski Palace - where his father
worked as a tutor - was in the process of being rebuilt (work
now halted and temporarily abandoned), while Kazimier-
zowski Palace is closed off to visitors as part of Warsaw
University - a plaque on the right wing commemorates his
fleeting presence. Instead pay a visit to Krasiski Palace
(formerly Czapski Palace) on Krakowskie Przedmiecie,
a place Chopin himsel f described as his refuge. Recon-
structed in 1960 and opened to the public in 1969 none
of the original furnishings survived the war, though the
period furniture on display has been faithfully assembled
to recreate his drawing room as seen in an Antoni Kolberg
painting made in 1832. Chopin lived and entertained here
from 1827 until his last day in Poland, and today some of
the antiques on display include a writing desk owned by his
elder sister and a pianoforte dating from 1830, as well as
paintings of his mother, sister and tutor. Another pianoforte
on show was once allegedly used by Franz Liszt. Thats not
the only famous connection - poet Cyprian Norwid attended
school in this building. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
3/2z, Wed free.
Holy Cross Church (Koci w. Krzya) C- 3,
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 3, tel. (+48) 22 826
89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinol ogist can l eave
Warsaw wi thout first visi ting the final resting place of
his heart (the rest of him being in Paris famous Pre
Lachaise cemetery). Added to the church in 1882 his
heart was seal ed in an urn and then placed behind a
tabl et bearing his likeness speciall y carved by Leonardo
Marconi. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No
visi ting during mass pl ease.
azienki Park. Our youthful cherry-cheeked hero fre-
quently gave concerts in the Belvedere Palace (G-5, ul.
Belwederska 52), then the stamping ground of the Russian
aristocracy. It was here he played for the Tsars brother, Great
Prince Konstanty, whose numerous duties included being the
commander-in-chief of the Polish Army. So taken was he by
Chopins skills that he persuaded him to pen a march to be
played during military parades.
El sewhere i n azi enki don t dare mi ss a vi si t to the art
nouveau Chopi n Monument (G-4) next to the Botani cal
Garden. Set i n the mi dst of a rose garden i t was erected
i n 1926, the work of accl ai med scul ptor Wacaw Szy-
mankowski. As part of the Nazi brutal i zati on of Warsaw
i t was dynami ted by German busybodi es on May 31,
1940. The fol l owi ng day an unknown patri ot had pl aced
a pl acard on the smoul deri ng rui n decl ari ng: I don t
know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don t
pl ay the funeral march for your l eader. A pl aster-cast
of the ori gi nal model al l owed the statue to be rebui l t
and a fai thful reconstructi on was unvei l ed i n 1958. An
i denti cal repl i ca can be found at Japans Hamamatsu
Academy of Musi c.
Evangelical Augsburg Church of the Holy Trinity
(Koci w. Trjcy) B-3, Pl. Maachowskiego 1, tel.
(+48) 22 556 46 60, www.trojca.waw.pl. In 1825 Chopin
once more performed for the Russians, this time for the Tsar
himself who in return presented Chopin with a diamond ring.
Q Open by prior arrangement.
Fryderyk Chopin Museum (Muzeum Fryderyka
Chopina) C-3, ul. Oklnik 1, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51,
www.chopin.museum. The most anticipated museum
opening in Poland since the 2004 launch of the Uprising
Museum, the Fryderyk Chopin Museum is a jaw-dropping
venue if youve had previous experience of Polish museums.
Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe the mu-
seum officially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark
the 200th anniversary of one of Polands most famous
sons. Over 81 million zlotys were siphoned from council
coffers to see this project realized, and the result is an
amazing space designed by Grzegory and Partnerzy
and fitted out by Migliore&Servetto of Milan. Taking up
four floors the museum features an interactive style and
shares in the life of Chopin from start to finish leaving
absolutely no detail out. Among the 5,000 exhibits are
a lock of hair, his school exercise books, a sweet box,
a gold watch presented to the ten year old Frederic by
an admiring Italian singer and the passport he used to
enter England. So comprehensive is the collection it even
features the last letter he wrote to his family and dried
flowers from his deathbed. Also, of course, are several
paintings and sculptures (including his death mask),
and a recreation of his Paris drawing room and even an
intriguing section on the women who made the man. And
while theres one small room of the museum aimed at
children, the other 95 percent of this epic exhibition will
probably have them whining to leave (though weekend
workshops directed at kids may help a little bit).
However, what really revolutionizes this museum is the
way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche of
e-books, audio-visuals, music games and touchscreen
options, the museum allows visitors to adapt their trip
to their particular circumstances. Put simply those enter-
ing can choose exactly what they want to see, and how
much they want to know about it. Even better are the
micro-chipped tickets that can be swiped along different
interactive exhibits to allow the visitor to hear music,
stories or watch a film. One area that was particularly
popular is the musical Twister game, which had normally
stoic middle-aged tourists leaping from spot to spot as
music played. Mr Chopin, welcome to the 21st century.
As for the building, thats worth getting to know as well.
Located in the Ostrogski Palace the structure housing the
museum is something of a Warsaw landmark, and was
originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. In the past
its been home to everything from a Napoleonic military
hospital to the riotous Morgans Pub, and its catacombs
are said to be home of the legendary Golden Duck; a
princess charmed by the devil before being transformed
into a beaked amphibian. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
22/13z, family ticket 62z, Tue free. Number of visitors
is restricted, so it is advisable to reserve tickets in
advance online.
Fryderyk Chopin Museum
Church of the Nuns of the Visitation C- 3, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 65
85, www.wizytki.waw.pl. Visit the church that Chopin
attended in his youth by popping into this baroque beauty.
Pride of place goes to the original organ which our man
himself played during a part time stint as a school organist.
A plaque outside confirms the Chopin connection: In honour
of Fryderyk Chopin, who played on the organ in this church as
a pupil of the Warsaw Lyceum in the years 1825-1826. Q
Open 09:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 16:30, Sun
Chopin Monument (Pomnik Chopina) G-4, azienki
Park. Dont dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin Monu-
ment (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the midst of
a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of acclaimed
sculptor Wacaw Szymankowski. As part of the Nazi brutalization
of Warsaw it was dynamited by German busybodies on May
31, 1940. The following day an unknown patriot had placed
a placard on the smoldering ruin declaring: I dont know who
destroyed me, but I know why; so I dont play the funeral march
for your leader. A plaster-cast of the original model allowed the
statue to be rebuilt and a reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.
Chopin Benches. The good city of Warsaw has devised
one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and thats by way
of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites
connected with his life. Made of cast iron and polished black
stone these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porebski,
feature a button which when pressed have been designed
to unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come
equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish
and English as to the sites relevance to Chopin. However, thats
not all. These benches see Chopin go techno: each one comes
inscribed with a special code - take a pic on your phone, then
send it to the instructed number and youll be rewarded to free
access to Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs.
And the Rest
It didnt have a Starbucks and it didnt have Coffeeheaven,
but even back in those days Warsaw had a thriving caf
culture. This wasnt lost on Chopin who would frequent now
defunct venues such as Pod Kopciuszkiem and Dziurka on
ul. Miodowa. One venue that has survived is Honoratka,
named after its proprietor Honorata Zimerman, and a
particular favourite stomping ground of the composer. He
was also an avid reader, confessing to visiting the Brzezina
Bookstore (again, now gone) on Miodowa every day, as well
as stocking up on sheet music in Dal Trozza on Senatorska.
Elsewhere the building on the corner of ul. Kozia and Trbacka
formerly housed the Royal Post Office, and its here that Cho-
pin forwarded his luggage from before departing Poland for
what would prove to be his last time. Finally theres Powzki
Cemetery, where his parents lie in plot 9-IV-1. Jzef Elsner,
his mentor and teacher, can be found at plot 159-V-1.
Restaurants
Polka, Magda Gessler po prostu elazowa Wola
14, tel. (+48) 46 863 21 68, www.restauracjapolka.
pl. Set in a modern manor house across from Chopins
birthplace is this classy venture by one of the countrys
best known celebrity chefs - Magda Gessler. The setting is
beautiful and features a summer terrace and grill for those
warmer months. The food is Polish with some nice touches
at prices that might surprise those who have eaten in city
centre Gessler restaurants and makes for an excellent end
to an interesting day outside of busy Warsaw. QOpen 09:00
- 21:00. (24-68z). PTAUGBSW
elazowa Wola - Birthplace elazowa Wola 15,
tel. (+48) 46 863 33 00, www.chopin.museum. True
enthusiasts are going to want to make the pilgrimage to
his place of birth, and a worthwhile trip it most certainly is.
The Chopin clan left for Warsaw in the autumn of 1810, but
even so elazowa Wola clearly held fond memories for the
family. Close friends with the neighbouring Skarbek family
the Chopins found themselves returning frequently for their
holidays, and we know for fact the composer spent Christ-
mas here in 1825 and New Year in 1826. The ZW manor
house which saw the birth of Chopin is thought to have been
built at the tail end of the 18th century, and came into the
ownership of Countess Ludwika Skarbek in 1801. Adam
Towiaski, who resided there between 1859 and 1878,
was the first to raise the idea of turning the manor into a
place of memory, and he set about restoring the complex
to its Chopin-era glory. A change of ownership saw the
project stall for a decade and it was only in 1891 that work
was resumed on building a Chopin museum. Thwarted by
a lack of funds these efforts didnt get much further than
the unveiling of a Chopin monument, and for the next couple
of decades work didnt so much stall as die.
Poland regained her independence in 1918, and the
related surge in national pride and patriotism saw new
efforts to commemorate Chopins legacy. The building
was granted historic status and in 1928 the property
was purchased by a Sochaczew-based Chopin society.
Restoration on the buildings was initiated in 1930, as
were plans to landscape the gardens, and buoyed by do-
nations the curators started amassing a stack of Chopin
memorabilia, among them a Pleyel piano. Disaster struck
in the familiar form of the German army: the outbreak
of war in 1939 saw a German unit billeted here, and the
building was looted and damaged.
By the time the Chopin Institute was awarded trust of
the house in the late 1940s the house found itself in a
sorry state of rot. Working round the clock to restore
it elazowa Wola was re-opened to the public on the
centenary of his death in 1949.
Today no original fixtures and fittings remain, and even the
original layout has been altered somewhat. Even so, the
house has been filled with period keepsakes, instruments
and paintings, and visitors all attest to the haunting spirit
of Chopin that hangs in the rooms. Displays on view include
an early 19th century produced by Leszczyski of Warsaw,
portraits of Chopin and 19th century furniture in the Bierder-
mier style. However, the bit that most will find themselves
drawn to is the mothers room, the actual scene of Chopins
birth. Now a calm white room adorned with a decorative
bouquet this has become a real point of pilgrimage with a
reverential silence observed by all who visit.
Getting There:
elazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and can be
reached by catching a mini-bus at ul. Marszakowska
(next to Rossman) courtesy of Motobus. Be careful
as some of these buses stop at Sochaczew and not
elazowa Wola. There is also this Plan B: take a train to
Sochaczew ( journey time 40 minutes, tickets 14.90z -
19z depending on the kind of train you take) and from
there jump on bus number 6 which terminates at Mokas
after stopping at elazowa Wola. This little adventure
should take a further twenty minutes.Q Open 09:00 -
19:00. Museum closed Mon (park open). Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/4z for the park,
23/14z for park and museum. Tue free.
elazowa Wola
109
Each area demonstrates a range of phenomenon by way of
experiments, button pressing, quizzes and in some cases
physical exertion with the aim of helping you to discover the
secrets of the world around us.
Not only will you learn an awful lot, but the place is great fun,
especially if you are (or are with) a child. Theres a genuine
flying carpet, you can pilot a spaceship, take a picture of your
own eye (and then try to recognise it among the others pho-
tographed that day), discover who or what is living next to us
in a major city, get involved in some crime solving or - and this
was our favourite - try to outdo animals at their own game by
out-hanging an Orangutan or beating a hippo in a race at the
arena. Theres plenty to do and you can easily spend a whole
morning or afternoon there trying everything, particularly if
you stumble on a day free of the ever-present school groups.
Additional hands-on activities geared especially towards
teens can be found in the Re: generation Zone, where visitors
over 14 can experiment with psychology, sociology, econom-
ics or biotechnology through 80 multimedia exhibits - we
swear weve never seen teens more effusive and excited
as they tried to identify a monkeys emotions, or finish lyrics
to popular songs. Theres also four interactive labs dealing
with chemistry, biology, physics and robotics that offer
supervised experiments for kids over 13 (instructions are
in Polish however) and an outdoor Discovery Park filled with
installations lining the Wisa.
The attached Heavens of Copernicus planetarium adds yet
another option for visiting science buffs as it immerses at-
tendees in 20 million stars thanks to a giant spherical screen
that surrounds the 137 seats on all sides. The seven different
108
COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE
Copernicus Science Centre (Centrum Nauki
Kopernik) G-2, ul. Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie 20,
tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Q
Open 10:00 - 20:00; Closed Mon. From September
open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Note that
the Planetarium has di f ferent opening hours.Open
09:30 - 21:00. Cl osed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour
before closing. Admission 25/16z, family ticket 66z.
(2adults+2children). Use of the labs, which are only
available to individuals on the weekends, costs an ad-
ditional 9z. Note that you must buy a separate ticket
for the Planetarium. Admission 18-23z/13-18z, family
ticket 49-64z.
Getting In
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
While the worlds attention was drawn towards the highly
visible, round-the-clock construction of Warsaws amazing
new stadium on the right bank of the Wisa, work was also
being carried out across the water on a building that has
since outshined the stadium now that the Euro 2012 hoopla
has died down. Built on time and on budget (well, just about),
the Copernicus Science Centre (CSC) - which stands almost
directly opposite the stadium along the river - has established
itself as one of Warsaws top tourist attractions.
Getting There
The centre can be found in the shadow of the witokrzyski
Bridge on the banks of the Wisa River. A journey to the CSC
from the centre of Warsaw should take around 10 minutes.
Buses 105, 118 and 128 will drop you at the Biblioteka Uni-
wersytecka stop, requiring a short walk around the corner
to the unmissable building. Buses 102, 162 and 185 will
drop you at the Pomnik Syreny stop with the CSC clearly in
sight. Alternatively visit the About us section of the English
language website www.kopernik.org.pl, where you can get
directions by car, by bus, or by foot by typing in your address.
Introduction
A rare example of European Union funding being used in a
genuinely visionary way, the CSC is many things, not least
(in the words of Polands Education Minister shortly before
the opening) an attempt to restate the case for science and
research in what can still be an intensely and deeply religious
country. In that sense, giving t he centre the name of the man
who did so much to end the churchs monopoly of education
in the first place is little short of a masterstroke.
Not that Copernicus did it all his own way; in the aftermath of
the tragic death of Polish President Lech Kaczynski in April
2010 the presidents political party, PiS (Law & Justice), lob-
bied heavily to have the CSC renamed for him. The request
was politely, respectfully, refused.
Given the stunning, futuristic sight - all glass and steel - that
greets visitors at the 93 million (half of which came from
the EU, half of which came from the Polish taxpayer) CSC
today, its a little ironic that the buildings origins are slightly
more humble. The idea of creating the centre first took shape
at the informal Science Picnics - outdoor science, culture
and art events aimed at the general public that have been
held in Warsaws Rynek Nowego Miasta since 1997. The
idea of the picnics (which were organised by Polskie Radio,
strangel y enough) was to bring popular science to the
masses through hands-on experiments. Each year, as the
numbers of scientists, universities, schools and members
of the general public taking part grew, it became clear that
there was an expanding interest in science in Warsaw, while
the large numbers of foreign visitors who came to the events
suggested that there was an untapped market in the region
for hands-on scientific learning. Construction of the CSC was
the natural next step, though it took a number of years to
secure the site and funding.
Given the ad hoc Science Picnic origins of the CSC, it is no
surprise that the museum (if we can call it that) was opened
in a slightly ad hoc, it-will-be-all-right-eventually fashion. The
opening show, Wielki Wybuch (The Big Bang), directed by
Peter Greenaway and Saskia Boddeke, was a little under-
whelming (and at certain points quite bizarre), while visitors
to the centre in the first couple of weeks were greeted by an
annoyingly large number of this exhibit is temporarily out of
order signs. Yet throughout 2011 as the CSC rolled out sec-
tions of the museum to the public it quickly became clear that
this is unquestionably the very best science centre in Europe,
and today visitors can enjoy a fully completed attraction.
Visiting Today
Arriving at the main doors at the north end of the building,
you will be met by the centres very own Robothespian. A fully
programmable humanoid robot, the Robothespian was de-
veloped in Britain by the Eden Project in Cornwall. He speaks,
interacts, mimics and performs, and visitors can prompt him
to make a number of sounds, speech and movements by the
adjacent control panel. This will keep the kids busy while you
queue at the central ticket desk where you will be given a set
of credit card-style entrance passes. You should keep hold
of these as not only do they allow you to enter and exit the
building throughout the day, but they will also become your
ID card as you move through the exhibitions, many of which
allow you to record your results (which are stored and then
emailed to you afterwards).
Passing through the barriers, the first display you come
to is a huge swinging ball. The ball swings backwards and
forwards, periodically knocking over mallets that strike a
bell as they fall. These bells are lined up around the swinging
ball in a circle and although the ball swings in a straight line
backwards and forwards, the knocking over of the mallets
proves that the earth is constantly, actually rotating.
Having admired this, the interactive exhibitions begin. First of
all, register your card with your name and email address at
one of the terminals so that you will be identified as you prog-
ress through the CSC. You currently have over 350 experi-
ments to visit, spread over two floors and six areas: Roots of
Civilisation, Bzzz! (for preschool children) and RE:generation
(for young adults) on the ground floor, and Humans and the
Environment, LightZone and On the Move located upstairs.
40-minute films (which require headsets for English) are geared
towards different age ranges and interests - tots will delight in
the Sesame Street show One World, One Sky while teens
will prefer the more mysterious Black Holes: Journey into the
Unknown. Before each film is a 20-minute live show (which is
unfortunately only in Polish, though still interesting due to the
impressive venue) about the skies over Warsaw that changes
with the seasons .School groups dominate the Planetariums
seats during daytime hours, and booking tickets in advance
is highly recommended - when we dropped in only one of the
eight daily shows had available space.
Its easy to declare that the centre is well-worth a few hours of
your time and will impress you with its design and range of ex-
periments. Factor in the main floor cafeteria and the packed
Science Store (potentially the best spot for childrens gifts
in Warsaw) and its a one-stop day of fun. The staff is keen,
very helpful and English-speaking; we saw many interacting
happily with kids and helpfully controlling the chaos. If there
is one gripe we have it would concern the Robotics show,
which can be found inside the Roots of Civilisation section.
The 20-minute show we saw told an embarrassingly bad
story about a robot that wants to become human in order
to marry a princess, and used language that seemed slightly
out of reach for young children. The various accents can also
be baffling (one robot sounds like a drunken Sean Connery)
and the robots themselves are like stiff mannequins that
move back and forth on a small track. Completely skippable.
Considering the size and scope of this operation, one minor
flaw in an otherwise awe-inspiring complex is a feat unseen
in Warsaw. And if truth be told, it would have been very hard
to imagine such a potentially world-class visitor attraction
being built in this city just a few years ago. Yet here it is, which
ought to be worth an exhibit in and of itself about how the
impossible can become possible.
111
110
LEISURE
Bike Rental
Veturilo, en.veturilo.waw.pl. Warsaw cements its big-
city credentials with the arrival of its first city-wide bike
rental fleet last year, and the numbers are impressive.
With 160 stations spread throughout Warsaw rdmiecie,
Bielany Targwek, oliborz, Ochota, Praga Pnoc, Wochy,
Bemowo, Wola, Wilanow, and Ursynow and offering 2,500
bikes theres no question youll be spotting the silvery
fleet flying through the citys streets. And why not try one
yourself? The system is ridiculously easy: set up an account
online (en.veturilo.waw.pl is the English-language site) and
pay the initial 10z fee. Once youre registered you can visit
any of the stations and select your ride, which has an indi-
vidualized code. Simply dial the enter your phone number,
your PIN and the bikes code, and youll receive the number
to unlock the bicycle from the stand. Then youre off! The
first 20 minutes are free, and from there you pay 1z for 21-
60 minutes, 3z for the second hour, 5z for the third, and
7z for each hour after that up to 12 hours. Theres a 272z
fee for exceeding 12 hours, and a whopping 1,770z cost
for replacing a lost or damaged bike so behave yoursel f.
When you return the bike, which can be done at any of the
stations, you make another phone call confirming the return
and youre finished.
Wygodny Rower C-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 4, tel. (+48)
888 94 99 49, www.wygodnyrower.pl. Choose from two
different styles of bicycles for cruising around the city. A full
day will cost 40z, 24 hours is 50z. Both require a returnable
deposit of 200zl. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Bowling & Billiards
Arco Bowling Alley D-5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej
1920r. 19, tel. (+48) 22 668 75 91, www.arco-bowling.
pl. Two floors, 32 lanes, restaurant and club. 80-150z per
lane per hour, shoes and instructor included. QOpen 16:00
- 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
Entertainment Centres
Hulakula Leisure Centre C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66
(University Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.
hulakula.com.pl. Includes a bowling alley, club, restau-
rant, pool hall, climbing wall and indoor playground for
children. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu
12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun
10:00 - 24:00.
Fitness & Gyms
Pure Health and Fitness A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote
Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 379 77 77, www.purepoland.
com. Third floor of Zote Tarasy, with facilties including
gym, jacuzzi, sauna and solarium. QOpen 06:00 - 22:30,
Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
LEISURE
Golf
First Warsaw Golf and Country Club ul. Golfowa 44,
Jabonna, tel. (+48) 22 782 45 55, www.firstwarsawgolf.
com. Enjoy a year-round driving range with 45 balls costing
25z, and an 18-hole golf course for 125-250z (price depending
on the day). Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 19:00.
Outdoor Attractions & Parks
Helicopter.pl ul. Ksiycowa 3 (Bielany), Bldg #15,
tel. (+48) 509 26 04 00, www.helicopter.pl. See Warsaw
from above in a Eurocopter courtesy of Helicopter.pl. Flights
depart from Bemowo and last 30 minutes, flying over the
Wisa and National Stadium.
Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41,
www.zoo.waw.pl. Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an
area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each
year. Four elephants, a family of seals and a lion cub were
added to the current collection of reptiles, birds and tigers.
Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though
a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on lock-
ing animals in cages. As with every major Warsaw landmark,
the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the begin-
ning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been
killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped
into the wild. Zoo director, Jan abiski, became something of
a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, abiski helped
save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the
grounds of the zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 20/15z. Children under 3 years free.
Spa & Beauty
Alchemy Day Spa G-5, ul. Klonowa 20/1, tel. (+48)
22 849 32 56, www.dayspa.pl. Pamper yourself at one of
Warsaws most established day spas. Alchemy offers a full
range of beauty treatments and relaxation therapies using
some of the finest natural products from around the globe.
If the sterile, hospital-like look of many modern spas isnt
your thing then this is the perfect place for you. The location
itself, a 1920s town house apartment with a great sense
of history, makes you feel relaxed and at home the moment
you set foot in the door. Forget all the madness going on
outside and just let the goodness wash over you! QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Franck Provost C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 58a, tel. (+48)
22 826 81 01, www.franckprovost.pl. French-trained
English-speaking stylists offering unisex hair treatment
and styling from 100z to 350z. Manicure and pedicure also
available as well as cosmetic products by LOreal and Ker-
astase. Also at ul. Puawska 25a (G-5), which has expanded
spa services like massage and microdermabrasion. QOpen
07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Hulakula Bowling Al-
ley C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66
(University Library), tel.
(+48) 22 552 74 00,
www.hul akul a.com.pl .
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed
12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 20-120z per hour.
Shoes included.
Pedal and Paddle, tel. (+48) 22 244 13 13,
www.veturilo.waw.pl. Launched for the first time
this year, this fabul ous new ini tiati ve links the hugel y
successful Veturil o publi c bi ke rental system wi th
kayak rentals. On the ci ty centre si de of the ri ver a
fl eet of one- and two-man kayaks can be found at
the entrance to Czerniakowski Port (H-3) and the
beach at oliborz. On the Praga side they are l ocated
at the Saska Kpa beach (H-3) and al ongsi de the
Poniatowski Bri dge (H-2). Veturil o bike stations are
also to be found at each of these si tes, so cycl e to a
j etty, rent a kayak (whi ch comes full y equipped wi th
al l the proper safety gear), scoot of f up or down
ri ver to another station, hop on another bike and go
for a well -deserved beer! Simpl e as that! Q Rental
open 10:00 - 18:00 until Sept. 29. 16-18,50z/hour
or 100z per day.
River Ferries
In the summer ferri es pootl e back and forth across
the Wisa at four strategi call y-placed points: Cypel
Czerni akowski - Saska Kpa (H-3), Poni atowski
Bri dge - Nati onal Stadi um (H-2), Podzamcze - Zoo
(B/C-1) and omianki - Nowodwory. These crossings
are phenomenall y popular and unfortunatel y pas-
senger numbers are limi ted, so the 3-4 minutes i t
woul d take to make the crossing often ends up being
a l ot of time spent in a queue to get on board. Still,
i ts a novel way of getting across the Wisa wi thout
having to cross a bri dge, though the ferri es end for
the season on August 31. Q omianki - Nowodwory
ferry runs weekdays 13:00 - 19:00 on the hour Sat,
Sun and holi days 10:10 - 20:15.
Cypel Czerniakowski - Saska Kpa and Podzamcze -
Zoo ferries run weekdays 12:30 - 19:15, Sat, Sun and
holidays 10:00 - 20:05.
Poniatowski Bridge - National Stadium ferry runs week-
days 12:45 - 19:30, Sat, Sun and holidays 10:10 - 20:15.
Admission free.
Water Trams H- 3, Cypel Czerniakowski, tel.
(+48) 801 04 44 84, www.ztm.waw.pl. From the
1st of May ZTM (the local public transport network)
set sail on the Wisa for the summer season. The
water tram is not only a handy way to get around,
but a unique i f brief way to do some sightseeing. The
route offers splendid views of many top attractions,
including the National Stadium, the Copernicus Sci-
ence Centre, the Old Town and Royal Castle. Dont
forget to take your copy of In Your Pocket along for
the ride so that you can read up on all of these places
as you glide by.
On the weekends you can catch the Zefir river cruiser
out to the popular lakeside town of Serock; the trip
takes all day and leaves from Cypel Czerniakowski
(H-3) at 09:00, arriving at the pier in Serock at 12:15.
After a rather brief stop-over of 90 minutes the vessel
heads back to the big city, docking in Warsaw around
19:00. Q Water tram runs Fri at 11:00, 13:00, 15:00;
Sat, Sun 11:00, 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00. The trams
end for the season on August 31. Special water tram
ti ckets can be purchased for 18/9z at departure
points or on board; standard ZTM bus and tram tickets
are not valid. Daytrips to Serock cost 36/18z.
Boat Rental & River Cruises
Sungate Beauty & Spa B-3, Pl.
Powstacw Warszawy 2, tel. (+48)
517 01 28 80, www.spasungate.pl.
The menu of services available at Sun-
gate is staggering: from facials and every
imaginable type of massage (shea butter
to aromatherapy) to waxing and nailcare
they have you covered from head to foot.
Package for couples, women and just regular folks who
like to indulge are also available. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
b e a u t y & s p a
112
d may l ook l i ke i ts pro-
nounced Lodz, but it most cer-
tainly isnt. Think of it as Woodge,
and three hundred years ago a
visit here would have produced
the sight of little more than one
man and his dog. In terms of
age d is one of the young-
est cities in the country, and a
direct product of the Industrial
Revolution. And while d can-
not boast the twee charisma of
Prague and Krakw a scratch
of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city
stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the
countries finest after-dark venues youll find them all
inside our 13th issue of d In Your Pocket; Polands
first comprehensive English-language guide to the city.
d In Your Pocket
Getting to d
Lodz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily ac-
cessed by train. When modernization finishes Lodz will be
within an hours reach of Warsaw, but for the time being
journey time is around one hour and forty minutes, while they
continue to work on the new high speed link. If youre travelling
from the capital youll need to book a ticket running to d
Fabryczna train station. The city centre is directly across the
road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry
on walking west and youll find yourself on the main street,
ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys
taxis stand directly outside the main entrance, though travel-
lers should only use cabs that are clearly marked.
Some Basics
d first appeared in written records in 1332 under the
name of odzia and remained little more than a rural back-
water for the following centuries, with a population numbering
just 800 as late as the 16th century.
The birth of modern d as we know it can be traced to 1820,
when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisaw Staszic be-
gan a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a centre
of manufacturing. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825
and by 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and
Russia was officially christened. A massive influx of workers
from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the
city, though the mainstay of the towns population remained
Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades d
had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the
Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made
and lost by the major industrialist families.
By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the
most densely populated cities on the planet with a popula-
tion of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.
But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years
signaled an end to the towns Golden Age, and the loss of
Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and
civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war d.
Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw
the city annexed into The Third Reich.
The following six years of occupation left the population
decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated
300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as
the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much
of Warsaw in ruins, d was used as Polands temporary
capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of
Warsaw also saw many of Polands eminent artists and
cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city
was d, and today the town can boast a rich cultural
heritage, with Polands leading film school, one of the most
important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting
underground culture.
Today d is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in
confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history.
Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of
hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to
the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europes
l ongest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest
municipal park in Europe. Youll find everything you need to
know about the city in our print guide to d, as well as our
full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.
Manufaktura
How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself
More than a shopping centre? In the case of Manufaktura, for
once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more
than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldnt be calling
it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m
2

Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless
shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story.
Manufaktura today i s the resul t of Pol ands l argest
renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaws
Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that
were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the
restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to
be believed. Enter through the Poznaski gate, where workers
used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and
youll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m
2
Rynek
(main square). Featuring Europes longest fountain the square
is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX
cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned
to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and
big screen showings of sports events.
Manufaktura is visited by close on 20 million visitors a year and
has become the new heart of the city. For the more languorous
character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry
visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite
all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress
with new additions and changes happening all the time. The
complex can boast a state of the art 4-star Andels hotel, a
Museum of Art as well as the History of Lodz museum set in
the palace of the former mill owner Izrael Poznanski.
Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights Shops Events Maps
May - August 2013

(w tym 8% VAT) lodz.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1896-1169
Pola Negri
The interesting life
of Polands most
glamourous film star
OFF Piotrkowska
An OFF-beat must-see
in Lodz
The history behind the

name, and just how to
pronounce it
Zbigniew Kotecki, courtesy of d City Council
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SHOPPING
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SHOPPING
W.Kruk C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 661
98 05 74, www.wkruk.pl. Polish jewellery, amber and
watches from various international brand names including
Emporio Armani, Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, Maurice Lacroix,
Longines, Anne Klein. Watches only available at these loca-
tions: (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyy 8 and Pl. Konstytucji 6 (F-4).
World of Amber B-2, ul. witojaska 11, tel. (+48)
22 831 16 00, www.worldofamber.pl. This is truth in ad-
vertising at its best. World of Amber is, literally, a world filled
with all things amber. Interested in a three-masted pirate ship
made of amber? How about a goblet trimmed in amber? A
glasses case? Beyond these unusual trinkets World of Amber
also has the usual beads, rings, neck-breaking pendants and
bracelets that are a must-have souvenir. The shop has a large
number of knowledgeable staff, which means youre never
left lingering over a glass case waiting in vain for service.
Which we like even more than the chess set made entirely of
amber. We swear. Also at (B-2) ul. witojaska 14, (B-2) ul.
Piwna 12/14 and (B-2) ul. Piwna 26. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Antiques & Art Galleries
A walk through the streets of old and new town is usually
enough to fulfil antiquarian designs, as will a short mooch along
Mokotowska. However, anybody whose anybody will tell you the
real treasures are found elsewhere, namely the excellent Bazar
Na Kole, an open-air market where haggling and bargaining are
considered de rigeur. For full details on that check Markets. If
youre planning on taking an artwork out of the country, and
it was produced prior to 1945, you will need authorisation to
permit you to do so. Most shops will be able to provide you with
this straight off the bat, but do check beforehand.
Alcohol
Of course you didnt come to Poland just for the booze,
but while youre here itd be rude not to check out what
the country has to offer. Primarily that means vodka, with
the two most highly regarded clear Polish vodkas being
Bel vedere and Chopin. Find them in any alcohol store.
Others to watch for include ubrwka - thats the one with
the blade of bison grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey
vodka, and winiwka, a sickly sweet cherry drink usually
consumed after meals. Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique
elixir characterised by the 22 karat gold flakes floating in
it. Bottle shops are numerous in Poland, as common as
cabbage, though the ones we list come guaranteed to have
no tramps or underage teens.
Ekskluzywne Alkohole M&P E-3, ul. Paska 81/83,
tel. (+48) 22 652 85 22, www.wina-mp.pl. Wines and
assorted alcohol from Poland and across the world. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Vinoteka La Bodega C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 6/12, tel.
(+48) 22 745 46 10, www.vinoteka.pl. A smart outlet
located in the building that used to serve as the home to the
Polish Communist party. Alongside a very good restaurant
find a retail outlet offering a wide range of wines from around
the world as well as high-end spirits and wine accessories.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
Amber & Jewellery
Vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the
country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and
coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without
bringing baby some Baltic Gold and youve booked your-
sel f a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin your
search is the Old Town, which is filled with purveyors of
amber baubles.
Art Gallery Amber Silver Line B-1, ul. Rynek
Starego Miasta 9/11/13. The name says si l ver, but
the shop i tsel f screams amber. Choose from pi eces
by Pol i sh arti sans and top desi gners, pl us hi gh qual i ty
j ewel l er y made wi th other preci ous stones. Al so at
ul. Nowy wi at 59 (C-3). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00.
Gal eri a Ar tystycznego Rzemi os a B- 2, ul .
witojaska 23/25, tel. (+48) 22 831 94 23, www.
galeria-czernicki.pl. Old Town store filled with all measure
of amber options as well as glassware, all housed immacu-
lately behind glass cases. One of the only shops where prices
are clearly displayed on all of the pieces, which gets our
thumbs up. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Bursztynek B-1, ul. Duga 8/14 lok.70, tel.
(+48) 508 51 16 80, www.bursztynek.co. The Caka
family have been in the amber business for two genera-
tions and their love of this gi ft of the Baltic coast makes
Galeria Bursztynek the store to visit for stunning jewellery
and artefacts, all produced in their own workshop. Not
content with just selling you a unique souvenir from your
trip to Warsaw they are also keen to educate customers
about the history of amber, the craftsmanship involved in
working the resin and its many uses throughout the ages.
In order to do this, they have turned part of their glamor-
ous Old Town emporium into a permanent and fascinating
museum display. Also at ul. Zamoyskiego 45a/2 (H-1).
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Kelly Melu Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. (+48) 22 827 33
74, www.kellymelu.pl. The number of young men jostling
to make purchases for their sweethearts should tell you all
you need to know about Kelly Melu jewellery: its popular, its
stylish and its affordable. The brightly-coloured bracelets
with charms appear to be the current must-have. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Mokobelle G-3, ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance at Mokotowska
54), tel. (+48) 607 07 37 15, www.mokobelle.pl. Mod-
ern jewellery from Polish and other European designers and
friendly staff thats eager to let you try it on. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Pandora C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 37, tel. (+48) 22 826 30
45, www.pandora.net. This exclusive Danish brand offers
high-quality silver, gold, crystal and gem jewellery for women. Of
note is their popular pendant bracelet which allows customers
to personalise their wrist accessory by choosing from Pandoras
large collection of original pendants, and change them according
to their mood. Also in Zote Tarasy (ul. Zota 59, A-4, open 09:00
- 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00), Klif ( ul. Okopowa 58/72, D-1, open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00), Arkadia (Al. Jana Pawa II 82,
D-1, open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00), Blue City (Al. Jero-
zolimskie 179, D-4, open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00) and
Galeria Mokotw (ul. Wooska 12, E-7, same hours as Arkadia).
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Silver Line C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 59. The name says silver,
but the shop itself screams amber. Choose from pieces by
Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery
made with other precious stones. Also in the Old Town at ul.
Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13 (B-1). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Its not Dubai, its not Hong
Kong, its not Milan and its
not London. Warsaw has a
long way to go before its
regarded as a shoppi ng
mecca, but the city is see-
ing true growth in the array
of shops available and the
number of big-name labels that are opening storefronts.
Whether its western style malls, designer boutiques,
dusty family stores or antique markets a day spent
shopping can result in both bargains and treasures,
and theres presents to be had for everyone on your list
(including yourself).
Wife or girlfriend
When we think of what the ladies would like, one word
comes to mind: amber. Poland is well known as the
best place to find handsomely shaped fossilised resin,
and you can easily nab a piece that will please at the
appropriately named World of Amber or famed Polish
jeweller W. Kruk.
Husband or boyfriend
One word: vodka. Another word: lard. Take home Polands
famous nectar and a container of smalec (spreadable
lard) and youll make any man happy. Krakowski Kre-
dens carries tubs of the greasy stuff, while youll find
popular Polish vodka brands like ubrwka and Belvedere
at Chopin Luxury and M&P.
Brother
What brother coul dn t use a Prussian hel met or a
bobblehead of a long-deceased dictator? Check out
our markets section, where places like Kolo Bazar and
Targowisko Bakalarska promise an array of strange
junk and treasures that brothers will appreciate for their
sheer quirk.
Sister
For high-end fashion pieces to style out sister, the new
domMody VITKAC is filled with name brands like Gucci
and Alexander McQueen, and the Likus Concept Store
is one of our fashion favourites.
Child
If youre looking for souvenir-y staples like bright red
Polska onesies and dolls dressed in traditional Polish
garb, look no further than Cepelia. For something on the
educational end of the spectrum we recommend you raid
the Science Store at the Copernicus Science Centre;
games, experiments and books for all ages await.
Mom
Give mom some monk-like zen with soaps and lotions
from Produkty Benedyktyskie, which carries a variety
of products created by the brothers at Tyniec Abbey in
Krakow. If she skews towards sweets then snag a box
Polish truffles at Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel.
Dad
If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his
life in interesting vintage bookshops. Warsaw is packed
with them, and Antykwariat Lamus is one of the best
for old postcards, unique prints, old books and yellowing
maps from last century.
Shopping at a Glance
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SHOPPING
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SHOPPING
source of foreign press can be found at EMPiK, though
Traffic and Relay (main hall of central train station) also
stock a smattering of titles. Also try the newsagents found
in five star hotels. As far as magazines are concerned,
EMPiK blows the competition out of the water, though you
can expect to pay a hefty mark-up for your mag of choice.
For books check out one of the American Bookstores scat-
tered around the city.
EMPiK C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 15/17, tel. (+48) 22 451
04 81, www.empik.com. A hefty selection of international
magazines and newspapers as well as music, video games
and movies. Theres also an EMPiK megastore nearby at
ul. Marszakowska 116/122 QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
Traffic Club C- 4, ul. Bracka 25, tel. (+48) 22 692
14 20, www.traffic-club.pl. Vast multi-level store selling
English-language books, DVDs, CDs and foreign language
press. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
Fashion & Accessories
The styl i sh deni zens of Warsaws streets are an easy
i ndi cator that fashi on i s i mpor tant i n the capi tal ci ty.
Trot out anythi ng l ess than your best and i t won t go
unnoti ced, we promi se you. Wi th the openi ng of dom
mody VI TKAC the ci ty has seen the arri val of maj or l a-
bel s l i ke Gucci and Lanvi n, and the Li kus Concept Store
i s a rel i abl e go-to for the l atest desi gner of feri ngs.
Check out hi gh qual i ty Pol i sh brands l i ke Reser ved,
Vi stul a and Tatuum, al l of whi ch youl l undoubtedl y
fi nd i n Warsaws shoppi ng centres l i ke Zl ote Tarasy
and Arkadi a.
Goshico F- 4, ul. Koszykowa 51a lok.37, tel. (+48)
501 80 88 78, www.goshico.com. We can guarantee
that you wont have to walk very far before spotting one
of Goshicos handmade, felt and traditional folk design
inspired embroidered bags on the arm of some trend-
setting local. Due to the companys phenomenal success
the range continues to expand and now includes the likes
of iPad/phone cases, laptop bags and small accessories.
Products are availabl e from numerous outl ets around
Warsaw but visit the city centre showroom to view the
whol e range or di scuss havi ng a custom made i tem
designed especially for you. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Mon,
Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Likus Concept Store C-3, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48)
22 310 73 13, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus
Concept Stores are one of the leading designer brand
retailers in Poland and Warsaws version is now housed
at the high-end dom mody VITKAC shopping centre, where
it rubs shoulders with labels like Balenciaga, Gucci and
Alexander McQueen. Which should tell you straight away
that Likus is no slouch when it comes to fashion: the new
store is well stocked with all the Lanvin, Jimmy Choo and
Yves Saint Laurent you could ask for. The decor of washed
grey walls and shelves of old books - and dont miss the
antler chandelier near the dressing rooms - make it look
like the most stylish library on earth. QOpen 11:00 -
21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Mol i er a 2 B- 2, ul . Mol i er a 2, tel . (+48) 22
827 70 99, www. mol i er a2.com. Excl usi ve t wo
l evel bouti que featuri ng col l ecti ons by Val enti no,
Sal vatore Ferragamo, Chri sti an Loubouti n and Ral ph
Lauren. QOpen 11: 00 - 19: 00, Sat 11: 00 - 16: 00.
Cl osed Sun.
Secret Life (of things) B-3, ul. Dbrowskiego 15 A,
tel. (+48) 600 48 65 82, www.secretlife.pl. Its hard
to know how to classify Secret Life since their bright, airy
shop is home to so many different things: theres a case of
unique jewellery, a room devoted to clothes and shoes, a
pile of handbags, and then a scattering of funky home decor
items and knick-knacks that demand your attention. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
TFH Tymczasowy Butik B-4, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. (+48)
509 74 17 89. This one-time pop-up shop has set down
roots finally, which means youll know exactly where to find
the citys hottest fashions. TFHs new boutique displays an
impressive selection of stylish t-shirts, handbags and hoodies
from over 20 of Polands young fashion designers, including
Rozwadowska Bags, Alicja Saar and Odio Tees. Dont forget
to check out the accessories and large pictorial books about
- what else? - fashion. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Food & Sweets
Food-wise Poland has plenty of edible delights that will
tempt (or shock) your friends, from delicious sausages and
preserves to jars of smalec (yep, thats spreadable lard for
your bread). Dine in true Polish style long after youve leapt
the border by bringing home traditional staples or any number
of the hearty sweets that end every Polish meal.
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 22, tel. (+48)
22 826 40 01, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Upmarket Pol-
ish delicatessen selling jams, compotes, hams and cheeses.
Also on ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy). Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00,
Sun 11:00 - 14:00.
Odzieowe Pole G-3, ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. (+48) 696
04 95 68. With no sign out front at this new location theres a
good chance youll trot right past Odzieowe Pole and not realise
what youre missing. Dont. Modern city fashion calls this funky
boutique home, and theres even a coffee bar offering lattes
while you browse. Find everything from work attire to cocktail
dresses on offer, including a stylish selection of accessories.
Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3/4 F-4, ul. Hoa 1, tel. (+48) 22
622 14 16, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Label-conscious
shoppers will delight in the mix of designers like Ralph
Lauren, Moncler, Salvatore Ferragamo and TODs that are
spread across mens and womens apparel and accessories.
Displays of pristinely-folded sweaters are immaculate, and
the staff is eager to search for any size - and have an ency-
clopaedic knowledge of which celebrities are sporting which
style. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Non-EU residents are entitled to claim
a VAT refund when the purchased
goods are exported in an unused
condition outside the EU in personal
luggage. Shop wherever you see the
Global Blue logo. The minimum total
purchase value with VAT per Tax Free
Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free
Form, have it stamped when leaving
the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim
your money. For full details check www.global-blue.com.
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE
2 STAMP IT
3 REFUND
1 GET IT
Once youve found that perfect item, remember to ask the shop
staff for a Tax Free Form when youre paying for it.
Tax Free Shopping

For more details contact:
Global Blue Polska Sp. z o. o.
Phone: +48 22 500 18 51
e-mail: taxfree.pl@global-blue.com
www.global-blue.com
As a traveler residing in a
non-EU country you are entitled
to claim back the VAT on your
purchases when you bring them
home.
You will find Global Blue Tax
Free Shopping service in the
major shops of Poland.
Spend a minimum of 200PLN,
and save up to 12% of the
purchase price.
When youre leaving the country to head home
or to continue your journey, take your
purchases, receipt and passport to the customs
desk to get your Tax Free Form stamped. If
youre travelling on to another EU country, get
the stamp on your Tax Free Form at your final
point of departure from the EU.
Finally, show your stamped Tax Free Form and
passport to our staff at Global Blue Customer
Services or one of our partner refund points and
theyll issue your refund immediately.
Anytkwariat Lamus B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel. (+48)
22 831 63 21, www.lamus.pl. On first glance youll spot
the shelves packed with old books and encyclopaedias and
want to thumb your nose, but a further peek inside Lamus
reveals bins of prints waiting to be sifted through. Old Warsaw
cityscapes, drawings of Polish flora and fauna and even the off
bit of vintage erotica can be found by those intrepid enough
to dig, and the walls are hung with old maps that are also for
sale. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Desa Modern H-5, ul. Bartycka 116, tel. (+48) 664
98 14 47, www.desamodern.pl. Modern art courtesy
of some of the biggest names in Polish contemporary art
circles. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Galeria aBo Art B-1, ul. Rynek Nowego Miasta 17,
tel. (+48) 604 78 18 81, www.aboart.eu. Miniscule art
gallery that sells only works by Polish artists. Watercolours of
Old Town landmarks, metal art, painted silks, glassware and
jewellery all jumbled together for your perusal. A unique local
offering. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lapidarium B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, tel. (+48)
509 60 18 94, www.lapidarium.pl. We can (and probably
have) spend hours at Lapidarium wandering the cluttered
rooms filled with all manner of junk - - and we say that with
love. Old uniforms, reproduction propaganda posters, busts
of Lenin, ancient record players and even old farm equipment
fights for your attention here. Give yourself time to wander and
accumulate a weird selection for purchase. How to spot this
place? Look for the antique bicycle and spindle sitting outside
the entrance. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00.
Books, Music & Films
Good luck finding your morning paper, despite the millions
of flights that land each morning at Okcie most English
language dailys dont hit the shops until the afternoon,
sometimes not till the next day. The most comprehensive
If youre visiting Poland and plan to pay for any purchases
with a credit card whose base currency isnt Polish zloty
(and unless youre Polish, this probably means you) odds
are you may find merchants asking whether you want
to be charged in your home currency or zlotys. At times
(though this is more rare) its not even a question the
merchant will simply take it upon himself to charge your
credit card in your home currency, no questions asked.
Dont fall into the trap of thinking your credit card com-
pany wont charge a foreign transaction fee if you opt to
be charged in your native currency; crossing the border
is what they care about, not the currency. And thats just
one of the reasons why, when given the choice, its in the
best interest of your wallet to choose zlotys.
Why? Because the companies that process credit card
transactions typically tack on fees for converting the
money, and then do so at a lousy exchange rate. Depend-
ing on the size and number of your purchases while in
Poland, the cost can really add up. Visitors will have to be
vigilant and monitor receipts when paying with a credit
card, and should you be charged in a different currency
put your foot down. Merchants dont benefit from those
additional fees, only the company that processes the
transaction does. So be firm about asking to have your
purchase refunded and done over again in zlotys.
Credit Card Charges
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SHOPPING
Arkadi a D- 1, Al .
Jana Pawa II 82, tel.
(+48) 22 323 67 67,
www.arkadia.com.
pl. If you cant find it in
Arkadia, you probably
never will. Covering a
total area of 287 000
m
2
Arkadia stands out
as the biggest shopping mall in Central Europe. The five
floor leviathan contains everything you need to survive
Warsaw, so its little wonder we know of people who
spend their lives stalking around its corridors; approxi-
mately 45,000 - 70,000 people visit each day. It took
three years of work to complete, and now houses fashion
stores include Lacoste, Peek & Cloppenburg and Tommy
Hilfiger, as well as ubiquitous high street chains like Zara,
Esprit and Kappahl. A giant Saturn store takes care of
all your electronic needs: from DVDs to sound systems.
Carrefour takes a large chunk of the ground floor, though
most expats are making a beeline for the first Mark &
Spencers food department in the country. If you cant find
what youre after in there then head to Kuchnie wiata.
The shop is tiny but is home to everything from Marmite
and Pirri Pirri sauce to Weetabix, Cadburys Chocolate
and Dr Pepper. English language books are available
from American Bookstore, and foreign press from EM-
PiK. Entertainment comes in the form of a 15 screen
multiplex. Alongside some very decent dining options
is the microbrewery Bierhalle. Serving homemade beer
and plates of sausages, this is exactly the place to leave
the other half where he will be delightfully happy for a few
hours. Connected by 10 tram lines, 15 bus routes and
with space for 4,000 vehicles. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
FACTORY Outlet Pl. Czer-
wca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel.
(+48) 22 478 22 70, www.
factory.pl. This outlet centre
is preoccupied with fashion,
offering top brand names at
30-70% discounts over other
shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands
include Pepe Jeans, Wrangler, Wittchen and more. One of
the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can access it by
taking the SKM train from rdmiecie and getting off at
SKM Ursus, or by catching bus 127 at Dworzec Centralny
and switching to bus 194 or 716 at PKP Wlochy. Your
final destination will be Ursus-Ratusz. Also at ul. Annopol
2 (Biaoka). QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
dom handlowy VITKAC C-4, ul. Bracka 9, www.
vitkac.com. The giant glowing Gucci sign will be your
first hint that this isnt your typical shopping centre, and
the heavy security is the second. Shoppers can find the
popular Likus Concept Store on the main level of the
sprawling structure while abels like Givenchy, Armani,
Dsquared2, Alexander McQueen, Gucci and Yves Saint
Laurent are spread over the remaining four levels of
shopping space, with roughly three employees available
for every browsing customer. The atmosphere is more
museum than mall, but if youre looking to splurge on
designer names then this is your headquarters. If max-
ing out your credit card works up an appetite be sure to
head to Restauracja Concept 13, which offers sweeping
city views in a modern, open-concept space. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Shopping Malls
Z ote Tarasy A- 4, ul .
Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222
22 00, www.zlotetarasy.
pl. Warsaws monstrous train
station now has a new neigh-
bour - the sparkl i ng Zote
Tarasy compl ex. Of fi ci al l y
opened on February 7, 2007
by Warsaw mayor, Hanna
Gronkiewicz Waltz, the first
afternoon alone saw 64,000
people file through the doors.
The 250 million Euro project
includes 225,000m
2
of office, retail and entertainment
space, with underground parking for 1,600 cars. Draw-
ing more than million visitors each month the complex
signals a bold shi ft away from the out-of-town malls
found in Warsaw, and familiar stores include Marks &
Spencers, Aldo, Polands first Body Shop, Hugo Boss,
Van Graf clothes store and EMPiK. For leisure, visitors
can not only visit Polands first Hard Rock Caf which
is split over 2 levels, but also a multiplex cinema and
more than 20 restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels,
including a Burger King. Designed by Jerde Partnership
International (whose founder, Jon Adams Jerde, designed
the Olympic Village for LA 1984), the central showpiece is
a 10,000m glass dome, fitted with a special mechanism
to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Kl i f D- 1, ul . Okopowa
58/72, tel. (+48) 22 531
45 00, www.kli f.pl. The
nati onwi de Kl i f chai n have
long been present in Warsaw,
though if you think youve seen
it all before then think again.
These chaps have rebranded
and re-launched with October
2008 refit resulting in the addi-
tion of new floors, an updated
design and a thorough facelift.
But as with all shopping centres the proof comes in the
pudding, ie the tenants. Now on show are top tags from
MaxMara to PennyBlack, as well outlets for casual faves
like Paul & Shark. For the juniors watch for Casper and
Mothercare. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Produkty Benedyktyskie A-2, Al. Jana Pawa II
43a/35, tel. (+48) 22 838 21 02, www.benedicite.pl.
This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey,
sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam,
wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two
eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are
completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excel-
lent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased
through their (Polish only) website. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you
want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace and wood-
work all look lovely on someone elses mantle. Folk art is an
easily recognizable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the
countrys favorite hero and saint-in-waiting Pope John Paul II.
For the lads, pick up a Polski football shirt or scarf off any of
the stalls that spring up unannounced around central station.
Cepelia B-4, ul. Marszakowska 99/101, tel. (+48)
22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Your first stop for tacky
souveniers. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handi-
crafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. Also at ul. Krucza
23 (C-4) and ul. Chmielna 8 (C-3). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Neptunea B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 47/51, tel.
(+48) 22 827 97 05, www.neptunea.pl. A weird little find
selling decorative sea shells, minerals, fossils, silver jewellery,
oriental furniture and exotic crafts. An absolute treasure, and
a must visit if youre looking for a something a little unique.
Rock Shop B-4, ul. Zota 59
(Zote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22
222 07 00, www.hardrock-
cafe.pl. You know a city has
made it when it gets a Hard Rock
Cafe and is there anything which
says Ive been there more than
a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem.
Pick up the Warsaw one to add to your collection at the shop
inside the HRC in the Zote Tarasy development opposite the
train station. Classic t-shirts cost 99z, all others run 105z.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Markets
Cheapskates rejoice, while the closure of The Russian
Market hit bargain hunters hard Warsaw still has a very
decent spread of bazaars. While rumours of pickpockets are
at times exaggerated, do nonetheless exercise a degree of
vigilance while perusing the swag on show.
Koo Bazar D-2, ul. Obozowa 99, tel. (+48) 22 836 23
51. Quality flea market held each weekend from dawn till dusk.
Attracting buyers and sellers from across the country this
is exactly the place if youve ever wanted to own a Prussian
helmet or set of palace doors from India (yours for 16,000z).
What else can you find? Weve spotted pre-war posters adver-
tising Polish toothpaste, early 19th century postcards, prewar
bathroom fixtures and grandfather clocks. Vinyl records go for
as little as 1z. Youll even find the occasional celeb looking for
something wacky to fill their top-floor penthouse with. The trad-
ers themselves are a set of curious characters, and watching
these veterans at work is one reason alone to visit. While early
morning is the best time to snap up the rare finds, 1pm on the
closing Sunday is the time to hit to try and get the last minute
bargains. The golden rule is to haggle at all times. Paying the
asking price means overpaying. QOpen 06:00 - 20:00.
Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63, tel. (+48) 533 33 15 68. If
youre not a fan of shopping we think this is a concept you
can get behind. Koszyki (Baskets) combines three functions:
its a bazaar, bistro and bar all in one. You can peruse the
seasonal fruits, herbs, veggies and flowers from dusk till
dawn, then sit down for a meal that incorporates many of
the fresh foods on sale. In the evening the bar opens and
offers drinks with a kick until the wee hours. QOpen 10:00
- 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
Targ Dobrego Jedzenia w Fortecy B-1, ul. Zakroc-
zymska 12, tel. (+48) 601 13 58 01, www.kregliccy.pl.
Food, food and more food. Find fresh herbs and vegetables,
cheeses, meats, eggs straight from the chicken and eco
honey for sale. Q Open Wed only 08:00 - 18:00.
Targowisko Bakalarska ul. Bakalarska 11 (Wochy),
tel. (+48) 22 846 51 79, www.bakalarska.com.pl. Prior
to the building of Warsaws new National Stadium the site was
home to the famous communist era Stadion Dziesiciolecia
(10th Anniversary Stadium), a monstrous, crumbling stadium
which spent its last years as a huge outdoor market. The mar-
ket attracted vendors from distant lands and it was generally
assumed that ANYTHING could be bought there. After the
market closed many of the vendors relocated to the Bazaar on
Bakalarska, making it the capitals largest, most diverse daily
outdoor market. Expect to find loads of tat, clothes, foodstuffs,
perfumes, toys and a few oddities of dubious origin. With over
500 pavilions and 700 market stalls, its a fun place to just
wander around and soak up the atmosphere. To get there take
bus 141, 189 or 401 to the Hynka stop; or trams 7, 9, or 15
to Wochy-Ratusz. QOpen 06:00 - 17:00.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 47/51
Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00, Sat 11.00-17.00
THE BEST GIFT SHOP IN WARSAW!
seashells, minerals and fossils
silver and amber jewellery
semiprecious stone necklaces
African and Asian handcraft
decorative stone products
121
DIRECTORY
120
DIRECTORY
Ireland C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, www.
embassyofireland.pl.
Israel F-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. (+48) 22 597 05
00, www.israel.pl.
Italy F-2, Pl. Dbrowskiego 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 34 71,
www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it.
Lithuania G-3, Al. Ujazdowskie 14, tel. (+48) 22 625
33 68, pl.mfa.lt.
Netherlands H-4, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22 559
12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
Norway G-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. (+48) 22 696 40 30,
www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia G-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. (+48) 22 621 34
53, www.rusemb.pl.
Spain G-4, ul. Myliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00,
www.exteriores.gob.es.
Sweden G-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00,
www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.
United Kingdom G-4, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48) 22
311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
USA G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. (+48) 22 504 20
00, poland.usembassy.gov.
Emergency Rooms
Szpital Kliniczny Dziecitka Jezus A-4, ul. Lindleya
4, tel. (+48) 22 502 20 00, www.szpital-clo.med.pl.
Ex-Pat Organizations
Alcoholics Anonymous B- 4, ul. Radna 14 flat 3,
www.warsawaa.org. Meetings on Mon-Thu 18:30, Fri
20:30 and Sat at 11:00. Note that on the first Saturday of
each month these meetings take place at ul. Poznaska 38.
Meetings at ul. Poznaska 38 also take place every Sun at
13:30. For more info visit their website.
Fantasy Role-Playing Group, tel. (+48) 505 44 12 71,
creativecowboy@outlook.com. English-language players
welcome for game that constructs collective story narratives
using high-level language communication and a few simple
rules. Wholesome fun, with newcomers always welcome and
encouraged. Contact R.A. for dates, times and locations.
International Womens Group of Warsaw, www.
iwgwarsaw.eu. Meetings are held on the second Monday
of the month (though there is no meeting in June). For the
location visit the groups website at www.iwgwarsaw.eu.
Every Monday a meeting is not occurring theres a coffee
social at ta Kaczka or Bread and Butter Cafe, which are
both in Zote Tarasy (A-4, ul. Zota 59) at 10:00
For more information see www.iwgwarsaw.eu or contact iwg.
warsaw@yahoo.com
Toastmasters Club ul. Mokotowska 1, tel. (+48) 696
292 451, www.toastmasters.org.pl. Warsaws chapter of
Toastmasters International, which helps members develop
presentation and public speaking skills. Guests are very wel-
come at their weekly Wednesday evening meetings; see their
website for more information or call Etan (+48 696 292 451).
Genealogy
National Archive B-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 7, tel. (+48) 22
635 92 68, www.warszawa.ap.gov.pl.
Registry Office E-1, ul. Andersa 5, tel. (+48) 22 443
12 30, www.um.warszawa.pl.
International Schools
American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202,
Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. (+48) 22 702 85 00, www.
aswarsaw.org.
Ecole Antoine de Saint- Exupry ul. Nobla 16
(Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 616 14 99, www.
saint-exupery.pl.
International American School ul. Dembego 18
(Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 649 14 40, www.ias.edu.pl.
International European School ul. Wiertnicza
140 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 842 44 48, www.ies-
warsaw.pl.
Pre-school Three Languages C-2, ul. Karowa 14/16
lok 6 and 2, tel. (+48) 503 07 21 19, www.3languages.
pl.
The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Mokotw),
tel. (+48) 22 842 32 81, www.thebritishschool.pl.
Language Schools
Edu&More B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 44 lok.7, tel. (+48)
22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com.
The Centre for Polish Studies B-3, ul. Szpitalna
5, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www.learnpolish.edu.pl.
Private Clinics
Damian Hospital G-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22
566 22 22, www.damian.pl.
Lux-Med A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Ho-
tel), tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, www.luxmed.pl. Also on
ul. Domaniewska 41a, ul. 17 Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawa II
78 (E-1) and ul. Bobrowiecka 1 (H-6).
Real Estate
Knight Frank C-3, ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. (+48) 22
596 50 50.
Ober-Haus Real Estate Advisors B-4, Al. Jerozo-
limskie 123a (Millenium Plaza, 1st floor), tel. (+48)
22 116 65 00, www.ober-haus.pl.
Religious Services
St Pauls English Speaking Catholic Parish C-3,
ul. Radna 14, tel. (+48) 600 38 49 16, www.warsaw-
catholics.pl.
Relocation Companies
AGS Worl dwi de Movers ul . Jul i anowska 37,
Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 702 10 72, www.agsmov-
ers.com.
Move One Relocations F-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79,
tel. (+48) 22 630 81 69, www.moveoneinc.com.
PRO Relocation B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel.
(+48) 22 630 61 00, www.prorelo.com.
Translators & Interpreters
Agencja MAart C-3, ul. Kopernika 3, tel. (+48) 22
480 88 00, www.maart.com.
Awangarda B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33/11 (5th floor),
tel. (+48) 22 629 92 44, www.awangarda.pl.
24-hour Dentists
CCS Ludna G-3, ul. Ludna 10a, tel. (+48) 22 625 01
02, www.ccsludna.pl.
DentaLux D-6, ul. Racawicka 131, tel. (+48) 22 823
72 22, www.dentalux.pl.
24-hour Pharmacies
Apteka G-5, ul. Puawska 39, tel. (+48) 22 849 82 05,
www.apteka.jollymed.pl.
Apteka Beata E-2, Al. Solidarnoci 149, tel. (+48)
22 620 08 18.
Business Associations
American Chamber of Commerce F-3, Warsaw
Financial Centre, ul. Emilii Plater 53, tel. (+48) 22 520
59 99, www.amcham.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce G-4, Al. Szu-
cha 3/14, tel. (+48) 22 622 27 51, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Consulates & Embassies
Australia B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. (+48) 22 521
34 44, www.australia.pl.
Austria H-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81,
www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.
Canada C-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 584 31
00, www.canada.pl.
France G-4, ul. Pikna 1, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00,
www.ambafrance-pl.org.
Germany G-4, ul. Jazdw 12, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00,
www.warszawa.diplo.de.
What's going on
in PoIand?
Get a rouno-up of the
ma|or Polish news, business,
entertainment ano sports
in English each week by
subscribing free to our PDF.
Visit us at
www.newpolanoexpress.pl
I
t took fve seconds to transform Po-
land from a country bustling with
confdence into one wracked with
grief on a scale not seen since the Second
World War.
At some point on a nondescript Saturday
morning on April 10, the aircraf carrying
the president, his wife and 94 others
clipped a tree with its lef wing as it
approached Smolensk airport in western
Russia. Five seconds later, now devoid of
one wing, it barrel rolled anti-clockwise,
before slamming roof frst into the ground.
As news of the accident broke in Poland,
and one by one television channels
interrupted their regular services, news
readers struggled to contain their emotions
as they realised the devastating blow the
Smolensk disaster had dealt the country.
Along with President Kaczynski, and
Maria his wife, the casualty list read like a
whos who of the Polish elite.
Te head of the national bank, the
chief of the armed forces, the heads of the
navy and air force, two ministers, leading
politicians and dozens of others. Many
household names in Poland; now all dead.
Te irony that the Tupolev Tu-154
crashed at it was carrying a delegation
to mark the 70th-anniversary of the
Katyn massacre, when Stalins henchman
slaughtered Polands best, was not lost.
Te Soviets killed Polish elites in Katyn
70 years ago. Today, the Polish elite died
there while getting ready to pay homage to
the Poles killed there, said Lech Walesa.
Aleksander Kwasniewski, another
former president, described Katyn as a
cursed place, and of horrible symbolism.
As Poles absorbed what Donald Tusk
called the most tragic event in Polands
post-war history thousands began to
make their way to the presidential palace
in central Warsaw, which was to become
the focal point of national mourning.
A small patch of fowers and candles
lef by mourners expanded and grew,
carpeting the pavement and the road in
a tribute to those who had died. Political
diferences vanquished by grief, thousands
upon thousands of people made their way
to the palace to pay their respects in quiet
dignity.
The outpouring of sympathy for the
victims spoke volumes for the shock
and sadness that had touched Poles; it
also spoke volumes for the decency of
Poland.
At noon on Sunday across the nation two
minutes silence was observed in memory
of the people that died in the air crash in
Smolensk. Te silence was then pierced by
the claxons and sirens of local authority
warning systems and police vehicles. To
this mournful orchestra of wails, the Pol-
ish nation stood to attention and refected
on their loss in the forests near Katyn.
Te parents of the pilot in charge of fying
the presidential plane have begged the world
not to blame their son for the crash.
Captain Arkadiusz Protasiuka was the
man responsible for landing the Polish
Air Force Tu-154M safely in Russia on
Saturday 10th April, but, for reason still
unknown, he was unable to successfully
carry out his task.
Te tragic death of the head of the
National Bank of Poland Slawomir
Skrzypek in Saturdays plane crash leaves
questions open about who will replace
him, and how his loss will afect monetary
policy and other issues.
Te succession issue is a major one, since
both the parliament and the president
must make the choice jointly.
IWo frotea m|auIes 0oa'I b|ame p||oI N8P |a Iurmo||
Po|aad h|I by secoad kaIya Iragedy
6ouaIry comes IogeIher
Io moura v|cI|ms
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Frica, 1t| Apri| 2010
Fc|is| Ncws
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w.prezydent.pl
Issue 15 ()
Warsaws Presidential Palace has become the focal point of the nations grief
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but
as with most international destinations it is still worth
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points such
as airports or in major tourist areas. We check rates of
a selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Here were their buying rates (how many
zloty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
the 15.07.13 compared to the following National Bank
of Poland (NBP) published rates for that morning of Euro
1 = 4.2637z, US $1 = 3.2706z, GBP 1 = 4.9429z.
Aurex C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 626
92 60, www.aurex.biz.
1 Euro = 4.25zl,
1 Dollar = 3.24zl,
1 Pound = 4.88zl.
No commission.
Kantor A-4, Zote Tarasy, ul. Zota 59 (level 0), tel.
(+48) 22 222 12 34.
1 Euro = 4.22zl,
1 Dollar = 3.22zl,
1 Pound = 4.85zl,
No commission.
Pekao SA ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48)
22 650 51 88, www.pekao.com.pl.
1 Euro = 3.94z,
1 Dollar = 3.08z,
1 Pound = 4.57z.
No commission.
Currency Exchange
Terranum,
tel. (+48) 662 65 69 30,
www.terranum.pl.
Terranum handl es al l
types of property needs, from selling and buying to find-
ing apartment rentals or even investment opportunities.
The company covers Warsaw and the surrounding area,
and a visit to their website shows their current listings.
Boutique
Mercure
Warszawa
Centrum
H15
Radisson BLU
Mostowski
Palace
Krasiski
Palace
Warsaw
Uprising
Monument
Little
Insurgent
Monument
St. Anne's
The Great
National
Theatre
Lubomirski
Palace
Tomb of
the Unknown
Soldier
Warsaw
University
Chopin
Museum
National
Museum
Polish Army
Museum
Bkitny
Palace
The
Armoury
Warsaw
City Hall
1 - ul. Nowomiejska
2 - ul. Piesza
3 - ul. Fandaminskiego
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129
128
STREET REGISTER
1 Sierpnia D-6/7
29 Listopada H-4
Aleje Ujazdowskie C-4, (G-3/5)
Andersa, gen. A-1/2 (E-1/2)
Anielewicza A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Archiwalna D-5
Armii Ludowej, al. F/H-4
Bagatela G-4/5
Bagno B-3
Banachago D/E-5
Bankowy, pl. A-2 (F-2)
Barbary, w. B-4, (F-3)
Barokowa B-2
Barona D-2
Batorego E/F-5
Bednarska B/C-2
Bellottiego D-2
Belwederska G-5/6
Biaa A-3 (E-2)
Biaobrzeska D-4/5
Bielaska B-2 (F-2)
Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5
Bobrowskiego D-5
Boduena B-3
Bohaterw Getta A-2 (E/F-1)
Bohdanowicza D-6
Bole B-1
Boni fraterska A/B-1
Bracka C-4
Browarna C-2/3 (G-2)
Brylowska D-3
Brzeska H-1
Brzozowa B-1
Bugaj B-1/2
Bytnara F-6/7
Canaletta B-2
Celna B-1/2
Chaubiskiego A/B-4 (F-3/4)
Chemska H-6
Chodna A-3 (D/E-2)
Chmielna A-4, B/C-3/4, (E-3, F-3)
Chocimska G-5
Chodkiewicza E-5/6
Chopina G-4
Ciasna B-1
Ciepa A-3 (E-2)
Cicha C-3
Corazziego B-2
Czackiego B-3 (F-2)
Czerniakowska G/H-3
Czerska H-5/6
Czeska H-2
Dbrowskiego, pl. B-3 (F/G-6)
Dawna B-1/2
Defilad, pl. B-4 (F-3)
Dickensa D-5
Duga A/B-1/2 (F-1)
Dugosza D-2
Dobra C-2/3 (G-1/2)
Dobrzaskiego A-3
Dolna G-6
Drewniana C-3
Dubois A-1 (E-1)
Dzielna A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Dzika D/E-1
Elektoralna A-2/3 (E-2)
Emilii Plater A/B-3/4 (F-3)
Esperanto E-1/2
Etiudy Rewolucyjnej E-7
Filtrowa E-4
Floriaska G-1
Foksal C-3 (G-3)
Franciszkaska A/B-1
Francuska H-2
Frascati C-4
Fredry B-2 (F-2)
Freta B-1 (F-1)
Furmaska C-2 (F/G-2)
Gagarina G/H-5
Gaczyskiego C-3
Gamerskiego B-2
Geodetw D-5
Gsta C-2
Gibalskiego D-2
Grnolska H-3
Grska H-5/6
Grskiego B/C-3
Goszczyskiego F/G-6
Goworka G-5
Graniczna B-3
Grodzka C-2
Grjecka D/E-4/6
Grzybowska A-3 (E/F-2/3)
Grzybowski, pl. A/B-3
Grzymay D-4
Hoa B/C-4 (F/G-3)
Hynka D-7
Idzikowskiego G/H-6/7
Inflancka A-1
Iwicka H-5
Jaktorowska D-3
Jana Pawa II, al.
A-2/4, (D/E-1/3)
Jana Sobieskiego G/H-5/6
Jasielska D-6
Jasna B-3, (F-2/3)
Jazdw G-4
Jerozolimskie, Al.
A/C-3/4, (D/G-2/4)
Joliot-Curie F-7
Kacza D-2
Kaliska D-4
Kanonia B-2
Kapitulna B-2
Karasia C-3
Karmelicka A-2 (E-1/2)
Karolkowa D-2/3
Karowa C-2 (F/G-2)
Kasprzaka D-3
Kazimierzowska F-5
Kpna H-1
Kiliskiego B-1/2
Klonowa G-5
Kopotowskiego G-1
Kolberga F-7
Kolejowa D/E-3/4
Konduktorska G-6
Konopnickiej C-4
Konstytucji, pl. F-4
Konwiktorska A/B-1
Kopernika C-3
Kopiska D-4
Korotyskiego D-6
Kocielna B-1 (E/F-1)
Koszykowa E/G-4
Kotlarska D/E-2/3
Kozia B-2
Kola B-1 (F-1)
Krakowskie Przedmiecie
B/C-2/3, (F-2)
Krasickiego F/G-7
Krasiskich, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Krasnocka H-5
Kredytowa B-3 (F-2)
Krochmalna A-3 (E-2)
Krlewska B-3 (F-2)
Krucza C-4 (F/G-3)
Kruczkowskiego C-3 (G-2)
Krywulta C-3
Krzywe Koo B-1
Krzywickiego E-4
Ksica C-4 (G-3)
Kubusia Puchatka C-3
Kusociskiego G/H-4
Kwiatowa F-5
Ldowa G-5
Lechicka D-7
Lenartowicza F/G-6/7
Lennona G-4
Leszczyska C-3
Leszno D-2
Leszowa E/F-4/5
Lewartowskiego A-1/2 (E-1)
Lindleya A-4 (E-3/4)
Lipowa C-2
Litewska G-4
Lubelska H-1
Ludna G/H-3
Ludowa G-6
Lwowska F-4
azienkowska H-4
ucka A-3 (E-3)
Madaliskiego F/G-5/6
Majewskiego D-5
Maachowskiego, pl. B-3
Malczewskiego F/G-6
Mariaska A-3
Mariensztat C-2
Markowska H-1
Marszakowska B-2/4 (F-2/4)
Matejki C-4
Mazowiecka B-3 (F-2)
Miczyska E-6/7
Miedziana A-4 (E-3)
Mia A-1 (D/E-1)
Miobdzka E-6
Miodowa B-2 (F-1)
Mireckiego D-2
Mirowski, pl. A-3 (E-2)
Mynarska D-2
Mokotowska C-4 (G-3/4)
Modawska D-6
Moliera B-2 (F-2)
Moniuszki B-3
Mostowa B-1 (F-1)
Muranowska A-1 (E-1)
Mysia C-4
Myliwiecka G/H-4
Na Rozdrou, pl. G-4
Na Skarpie, al. G-3
Nabielaka G-5
Nalewki A-1/2
Narbutta F/G-5
Narutowicza, pl. D-4
Nehru H-5
Niecaa B-2, (F-2)
Niemcewicza D/E-4
Niepodlegoci, al. F/G-4
Niska A-1, (D/E-1)
Niska D/E-1
Niyskiego Pasa B-3
Nowiniarska B-1
Nowogrodzka A/C-4 (E/F-3)
Nowolipie A-2 (E-2)
Nowolipki A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Nowowiejska E/G-4
Nowy wiat C-3/4 (G-2/3)
Obona C-3
Obozowa D-2
Oczki E/F-3/4
Odolaska F/G-6
Odyca F/G-6
Ogrodowa A-3 (E-2)
Oklnik C-3
Okopowa 1/2-D
Okrg G/H-3
Okrzei G-1
Oleandrw F/G-4
Olimpijska E-6
Olkuska G-6
Olszewska G-5
Olszowa G-1
Ondraszka E-4/5
Opolski, pl. D-2
Ordynacka C-3 (G-2)
Orla A-2/3 (E-2)
Orowicza G-3
Ossoliskich B-2
Padewska G-6
Panieska G-1
Paska A-3/4 (E-3)
Parkowa G-5
Pasteura D-4/5
Paszyna D-1
Pawia A-2 (D/E-2, E-1)
Pawiskiego D-5/6
Pereca A-3 (E-3)
Piaseczyska G-6
Piekarska B-2
Pikna F/G-4
Pisudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2)
Piwarskiego G/H-6
Piwna B-2
Patowcowa E-6
Platynowa E-3
Podchorych G/H-5
Podwale B-1/2 (F-1)
Pokorna A-1
Polna F/G-4
Poniatowskiego, ks. Al. H-2
Powzkowska D-1
Powstacw Warszawy, pl. B-3
Poznaska B-4 (F-3)
Promenada G-5/6
Prosta A-4 (D/E-3)
Prna B-3
Prusa C-4
Pruszkowska D-6
Przechodnia A-2/3
Przemyska D-5
Przyokopowa D-3
Przyrynek B-1
Ptasia A/B-3 (F-2)
Puawska G-5/7
Puku Baszta F-7
Pytlasiskiego G-6
Racawicka D/E-6
Radna C-3
Rajcw B-1
Rakowiecka E/G-5
Raszyska E-4
Rejtana G-5
Rokitnicka E-5
Rostafiskich E-5
R, al. G-4
Rana F/G-5/6
Rozbrat G-3
Rycerska B-2
Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1)
Rynek Starego Miasta B-1/2
Rysia B-3
Sandomierska G-5
Sanguszki B-1
Sanocka D-5/6
Sapieyska A/B-1
Sasanki D-7
Senatorska B-2 (F-1/2)
Schillera B-2 (F-1)
Siedmiogrodzka D-3
Sielecka H-5/6
Siemieskiego D-5
Sienkiewicza B-3
Sienna A-4 (E-3)
Skaryszewska H-1
Skaryskiego D-5
Skierniewicka D-3
Skorochd D-5/6
Sawiska D-3/4
Soneczna G-5
Supecka D-4
Smocza D/E-1/2
Smolna C-3/4
Sokola G/H-1/2
Solec G/H-2/3
Solidarnoci, al.
A/C-1/3, (D/G-1/2)
Sosnowa A-4
Spacerowa G-5
Spartaska E-7
Spiska D/E-4
Srebrna F-3
Stara B-1
Starociska F/G-5
Starynkiewicza, pl. E-3
Staszica D-2
Stawki A-1 (D/E-1)
Stefana Batorego E/F-5
Stpiska H-5/6
Sulkiewicza G-5
Szara G-3
Szarych Szeregw D-3
Szczliwicka D-4
Szczygla C-3
Szkolna B-3
Szpitalna B-3/4
Szucha, al. G-4
Szwoleerw H-4
liska A-4
witojaska B-2
witojerska A/B-1/2 (E/F-1)
witokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3)
Tagore'a F-6
Tamka C-3 (G-2)
Targowa G/H-1
Teatralny, pl. B-2 (F-2)
Tomackie A/B-2
Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza
B-2/3
Topiel C-3
Towarowa D/E-2/3
Traugutta B/C-3
Trbacka B-2
Trojdena, ks. D/E-5
Trzech Krzyy, pl. C-4 (G-3)
Tuwima C-3
Twarda A-3/4 (E-3)
Tyniecka G-6/7
Unii Lubelskiej, pl. G-4/5
Ursynowska F/G-6
Wa Miedzeszyski H-2/3
Walecznych H-2
Walicw A-3 (E-2/3)
Waowa A-1/2 (E-1)
Warecka B/C-3 (F-2)
Waryskiego F/G-4/5
Wski Dunaj B-2
Wawelska D/F-4
Widok B-4
Wiecha Pasa B-3/4
Wiejska C-4 (G-3)
Wierzbowa B-2 (F-2)
Wiktorska F/G-6
Wilanowska H-3
Wilcza B/C-4 (F/G-3/4)
Wileski pl. G-1
Willowa G-5
Winnicka D-5
Wiolarska H-3
Wilana C-2
Wilicka D-5/6
Winiowa F/G-5, F/G-6
Witosa, al. H-6/7
Wodna B-1
Wjtowska B-1
Wolno D-2
Wooska E/F-6/7
Wolska D-3
Woronicza E/G-7
Wronia E-2/3
Wsplna A/C-4 (F-3)
Wybrzee Gdaskie
B/C-1/2, (F-1)
Wybrzee Helskie C-1 (G-1)
Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie
C-2, (G-1/2)
Wybrzee Szczeciskie
C-1/2, (G-1/2)
Zbkowska H-1
Zajcza C-3 (G-2)
Zakroczymska B-1
Zamenhofa A-1/2 (E-1)
Zamkowy, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Zamoyskiego H-1
Zapiecek B-2
Zawiszy, pl. E-3
Zbawiciela, pl. F-4
Zbierska G/H-5/6
Zgoda B-3/4
Zieleniecka, al. H-1/2
Zielna B-3
Zimna A-3
Zota B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3)
Zoli G-4
Zwycizcw H-3
elazna A-3/4 (E-2/3)
elaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2)
urawia B/C-4 (F/G-3)
wirki i Wigury D/E-4/7
ytnia D-2
12 Stolikw 36
77 Sushi 43
99 Restaurant & Bar 48
Adam Czerniakw's house 91
Adam Mickiewicz Monument 76
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of
Literature 79
Adventure Warsaw 73
A Footbridge of Memory 90, 98
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument
88
AiOLI Cantine 41
Alchemy Day Spa 111
And the Rest 107
Anytkwariat Lamus 116
Arco Bowling Alley 110
Arkadia 119
Art Gallery Amber Silver Line 114
Atelier Amaro 48
Augsburg Lutheran Cemetery 76
Babooshka 53
Banja Luka 33
BarKa 66
Bar Mleczny Familijny 43
Bar Warszawa de Luxe 62
Bears 88
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar 58
Belvedere 48
Belvedere Palace 100
Berling Statue 94
BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix 29
Besuto 43
Biaa G 48
Bielaski Bank 94
Bierhalle 36, 58
Biosfeera 54
Bistro Warszawa 49
Blikle Caf 56
Bollywood Lounge 66
Bordo 36
Botanical Garden 100
Boutique Bed & Breakfast 29
Brasserie Warszawska 49
British Bulldog Pub 58
Browar de Brasil 33
BrowArmia 37
Bubbleology 56
Buddha Indian Restaurant 35
Buildings 88
Butchery & Wine 44
By Bus 102
By Taxi 102
Caf 6/12 45
Cafe Baguette 56
Caf Baobab 32
Cafe Kulturalna 58
Cafe Prna 56
Caf Vincent 56
Calvinist Reformed Cemetery 76
Campanile 29
Casa Pablo 53
Castle Inn 29
Central Grill 53
Cepelia 118
Cesarski Paac 34
Cesarski Paac (Tsinghis Chan)
47
City Sightseeing Warsaw 73
C.K. Obera 35
Club Capitol 66
Club Mirage 66
Coffee Karma 56
Concept 37
Copernicus Science Centre 109
Costa by coffeeheaven 56
Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw
Airport 30
Coyote Bar & Night Club 69
Cross-monument 76
Cuda na Kiju 58
Charles de Gaulle Monument 76
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 34
China Garden 104
Chodna 25 90
Chopskie Jado 49
Chopin Benches 107
Chopin Monument 107
Chopin Monument & Temple of
Sibyl 100
Christian's Baker House 56
Church of the Nuns of the
Visitation 107
Dawne Smaki 49
DeCoteria 37, 89
Delicja Polska 50
de lite club 66
Desa Modern 116
dom handlowy VITKAC 119
Dom Polski 50
Downtown Restaurant &
Steakhouse 44
Drink Bar Jasna 24 60
Dziurka od Klucza 41
Eastern Station Warsaw 73
Ekskluzywne Alkohole M&P 114
Element 66
EMPiK 116
Etgar Keret's House 90
Ethnographic Museum 79
Evangelical Augsburg Church
of the Holy Trinity 106
Execution Sites 94
FACTORY Outlet 119
Farina 20 42
First Warsaw Gol f and Country
Club 111
Five 37
Florian 50
Foksal XVIII 67
Folk Gospoda 50
Franck Provost 111
Frida 54
Fryderyk Chopin Museum 106
Fusion 35
Galeria aBo Art 116
Galeria Artystycznego
Rzemiosa 114
Galeria Bursztynek 114
Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture
and the Decorative Arts 80
Gestapo HQ 84
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre 29
Goshico 116
Grand Kredens 37
GR Bistro & Restaurant 38
Green Bar 54
Green Caffe Nero 56
Green Patio 45
Green Peas Eco bar & coffee
45
Grzegorz Przemyk Memorial 91
Haka Bar 60
Hala Mirowska 91
Halka restauracja po polsku 50
Hard Rock Cafe 32, 60
Helicopter.pl 111
Hilton Warsaw Hotel &
Convention Centre 28
Historical Museum of Warsaw
80
Holiday Inn Express Warsaw
Airport 30
Holy Cross Church 73, 106
Hostel 36 31
Hotel Bristol Warsaw 27
Hulakula Bowling Alley 110
Hulakula Leisure Centre 110
Hyatt Regency Warsaw 27
Hydrozagadka 60, 89
Ibis Budget Warszawa
Centrum 30
Ibis Stare Miasto 29
Ibis Warszawa Centrum 29
Ignacy Paderewski 77
Ichiban Sushi 44
Inaba 44
InterContinental 27
Invisible Exhibition 84
Italian Military Cemetery 76
Jerzy Popieuszko's house 91
Jesuit Church 74
Jewish Cemetery 98
Jewish Historical Institute 98
Jzef Pisudski Monument 77
Juliusz Sowacki Memorial 91
Jung & Lecker 65
Kamanda Lwowska 54
Kapela Podwrkowa
Monument 88
Karmello 57
Kelly Melu 115
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery 44
King Sigismund's Column 77
Klaps 60
Kli f 119
Klubokawiarnia Resort 45
Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska 61
Kokomo 69
Koo Bazar 118
Kociuszkowcw Monument 89
Koszyki 118
Kraken Rum Bar 61
Krakowski Kredens 117
Kufle i Kapsle 61
Kuchnia Funkcjonalna 38
Kwadrat 61
Lake & Island 103
Lapidarium 116
La Playa Music Bar 66
azienki Park 100, 106
Le Cedre 84 46
Le Connaisseur 34
Legends British Bar &
Restaurant 33
Leniviec 56
Leniwa Gospodyni 43
Libido Gentleman's Club 69
Likus Concept Store 116
Literatka 50
LOKAL.BISTRO 51
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina
Warsaw 27
Marriott 27
Mazovia Region Centre of
Culture and Arts 91
MDM 30
Meat Love 38
Mercure Warszawa Centrum 28
Mercure Warszawa Grand 29
Meridian 90
Meta na Foksal 62
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro 60
Metropol 30
Miasto Cypel 66
Military Cathedral 74
Ministerstwo Kawy 56
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska 43
Mokobelle 115
Mokotowskie Field 84
Moliera 2 116
Momu Gastrobar 62
Monument to the Ghetto
Heroes 98
Monument to the Warsaw
Uprising 94
Moon 31
Multimedia Fountain Park 80
Museum of Hunting and
Horsemanship 101
Museum of Independence 80
Museum of John Paul II
Collection 81, 91
Museum of Polish People's
Movement 81
Museum of Priest Jerzy
Popieuszko 81
Museum of Sports and
Tourism 82
Museum of Technology 85
Mylewicki Palace 101
Namaste India 35
Namaste India Clay Oven 35
LISTINGS INDEX
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
w Wellness B Outside seating
Symbol Key
130
LISTINGS INDEX
Natara 54
National Museum 83
Neptunea 118
New Orleans Gentlemen's Club
69
Nicolaus Copernicus
Monument 78
Nike 78
Northern Cemetery 76
Novotel Warszawa Centrum 29
Noyk Synagogue 98
Obera Pod Czerwonym
Wieprzem 51, 90
Odzieowe Pole 117
Oki Doki 31
Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant 53
Olive Garden 46
Opera 67
Organza 67
Orthodox Church of St. Mary
Magdalene 89
OSP Saska Kpa 62
Osteria 53
OTO!SUSHI 46
Palace of Culture and Science 85
Palace on the Island 101
Palmiry - The National
Memorial Museum 82
Pandora 115
Panorama Bar & Lounge 62
Paparazzi 62
Papaya 54
Park & Gardens 103
Paros 47
Pasta 95
Pedal and Paddle 110
Petit Appetit 57
Pikna Bistro 38, 60
Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar 62
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa 62
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel 57
Plan B 64
Platinium Club 67
Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3/4 117
P&O Apartments 30
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra 64, 89
Podwale - Kompania Piwna 38
Polish Army Museum 83
Polka, Magda Gessler po
prostu 107
Polonia Palace Hotel 29
Poster Museum 103
Potocki Mausoleum 104
Powzki Catholic Cemetery 76
Praga Tourist Information 89
Premiere Classe 30
Produkty Benedyktyskie 118
Prudential Tower 95
Przekski Zakski 62
Pure Health and Fitness 110
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel 29
Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel 29
Rain by India Curry 36
Relax Cafe Bar 57
Residence St. Andrew's Palace
31
Restauracja Concept 13 38
Restauracja Kultura 38
Restauracja Oliva 47
Restauracja Rana 51
Restauracja Wilanw 38, 104
Restaurant Jasna 24 38
Restro 38
Rezydencja Belweder Klonowa
30
Rialto 28
Ristorante Repubblica Italiana
42
River Ferries 110
Rock Shop 118
Roma 42
Roma Bukieteria 42
Room 13 Club & Lounge 67
Roommate Apartments 31
Royal Castle 83
Rycki Bazaar 89
Ruins of the Rising 95
SAM Restaurant & Bakery 40
Sapper Monument 95
Saski Park 84
SD Gallery 104
Secret Li fe (of things) 117
Sepia Restaurant 42
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel 28
Silver Line 115
Sioux 33
Skaryszewski Park 95
Sketch 64
Skwer - filia Centrum
Artystycznego Fabryka Trzciny
40, 64
Sodki Sony 57
Sony 51
Socjal 40
Sofia 69
Sokotra 47
Sol y Sombra 54
SomePlace Else 33, 64
Soto Sushi 46
Soviet War Cemetery 76
Soviet War Memorial 89
Sowa & Przyjaciele 40
St. Anne's Church 74, 104
Starbucks Coffee 57
Start Hotel Atos 30
St. Benno's Church 75
St. Carlo Borromeo Church 91
St. Casimir's Church 75
St. Francis Seraph Church 75
St. John the Baptist Cathedral
75
Sts. Michael & Florian
Cathedral 89
Sungate Beauty & Spa 111
Syrena 78
Tadeusz Kociuszko
Monument 78
Targ Dobrego Jedzenia w
Fortecy 118
Targowisko Bakalarska 118
Temat Rzeka 66
TFH Tymczasowy Butik 117
T.G.I. Friday's 91
Thai Taste Express 54
Thai Thai 54
Theatre on the Island 101
The Chopin Family Drawing
Room 106
The Little Insurgent Monument
95
The Museum of the History of
Polish Jews 98
The Westin Warsaw Hotel 28
The Wilanw Palace Museum
103
To Lubi 57
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier 79
Tomo Sushi 46
'To Those Deported and
Murdered in the East' 79
Tourist Information 82
Traces of the Ghetto 98
Traffic Club 116
U Barssa 52
U Fukiera 52
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of
Modern Art/CSW) 83, 101
Ujazdowski Park 84
U Kucharzy 52
Umschlagplatz 98
U Szwejka 34
Utopia 67
Veturilo 110
Vinoteka La Bodega 114
Warsaw City-Tour 73
Warsaw Dream 73
Warsaw Tortilla Factory 54, 65
Warsaw Trade Tower 90
Warsaw Uprising Cemetery 76
Warsaw Uprising Museum 94
Warszawa Powile 65
Warszawa Wschodnia 52
Warszawska 62
Water Trams 110
Wawel 57
White House & Orangery 101
Wine Bar Mielyski 65
Winestone 65
Winiarnia Restauracja
Superiore 40, 65
Winosfera 41, 65
W.Kruk 115
Wola Massacre Statue 95
W Oparach Absurdu 65, 89
World of Amber 115
Wrzenie wiata 57
Wygodny Rower 110
Zbkowska 89
Zapiecek 52
elazowa Wola - Birthplace 107
Zote Tarasy 119
Znajomi Znajomych 65
Zoo 89, 111
urawina Rest & Wine 41
Ask your Concierge 28
Cemeteries 76
Climate 17
Credit Card Charges 116
Currency Exchange 120
Eating at a Glance 32
Facts & Figures 17
Gruba Kaka 77
Have Your Say 46
Healthy Eating 45
Chocolate Lounges 57
Jan III Sobieski 104
Jazz 60
Kociuszko Monument 78
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 1 74
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 1 75
Language Smarts 19
Lodgings at a Glance 27
Market Values 18
Milk Bars 43
Multimedia Fountain Park 80
National Holidays 19
Night at a Glance 58
Palmiry 82
Polish Snacks & Shots 62
Presidential Palace 81
Quick Currency Convertor 18
Royal Castle 83
Saska Kpa 8
Seasonal Places 66
Shopping at a Glance 114
Stanislaw Poniatowski 79
Steak 44
Train Smarts 13
Vice Advice 68
Warsaw Central Station 12
Warsaw Historical Timeline 71
Wine Bars 65
Features index

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Same owner, same cooks, same place, but with

May - August 2013

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