Port and Harbor Engineering

Radianta Triatmadja
Lecture note 4
 WAVE and WAVE CLIMATES
Wind waves are generated by wind.
Wind stress on water surface, transfers the
wind energy to the water and create
waves
The waves energy and so the wave height
depends on the wind energy transferred
which is a function of :
Wind speed, wind duration and fetch
Coordinate system used in wave
dynamic
Z

peak

Z=0 Mean sea level

0,0
78,-6.3

45, -h

X
 Notations
Height =H
Amplitude = a,
or H/2 Fluctuation = 

Wave length (L)

2
Wave Period = T, Time required for the 
wave to travel one wave length T
2
k
L
 Linear Wave
(Airy wave)
Water H
fluctuation   cos( kx  t )
2
Particle  H cosh k ( h  z )
horizontal u   cos( kx  t )
velocity x 2 sinh kh
Particle
vertical  H sinh k ( h  z )
velocity w   sin( kx  t )
z 2 sinh kh
Particle u H 2 cosh k (h  z )
horizontal  sin( kx  t )
acceleration t 2 sinh kh
 Particle trajectory


(x,z)

H cosh k ( h  z1 )
 sin( kx1  t )
2 sinh kh
H sinh k ( h  z1 )
  cos( kx1  t )
2 sinh kh
 Particle trajectory
• What can be concluded from the fact that
the particle is moving in circle ?

•
 Pressure under waves

H cosh k ( h  z )
p   gz  g cos( kx  t )
2 cosh kh
 Dispersion Equation

  gk tanh kh
2

gT 2 2 h
Wave Length L tanh
2 L

gT 2h
Wave celerity C tanh
2 L
Wave Energy

gH
2

Et  L
8
 Wind duration
(hrs)

H in meter
Wind Waves

Wind
Speed

Fetch
 Wind duration
(hrs)
T in seconds

H in meter
Wind Waves

Wind
Speed
Wave height

Fetch
 Wind duration
(hrs)

Wind Waves

Wind
Speed

Wave height and

duration

Fully
developed
sea

Fetch
 Adjusted Wind Speed
1/7
 10 
Adjustment due to measurement U10  U z  
above or below 10 meter
 z 
R
Adjustment if measurement
is conducted inland

Adjustment to
accommodate
temperature difference

Wind Stress factor

or adjusted wind
speed
U A  0.71U 1.23
W
 Wind duration
(hrs)

Wind
H in meter, is significant Wave
Waves
Height

Wind
Speed

Fetch
 Wave Height Statistic
• Hs = H significant , the average of 33% highest
waves in the record
• H10 = the average of 10% highest waves in the
record

Ratio between wave heights and H33 dan H100.

Hn/H33 Hn/H100 H33/Hrms

n%
1 1.68 2.68
10 1.28 2.03
33
50
100
1.00
0.89
0.63
1.60
1.42
1.00
2
Hmax = 0.707 H33 = ln N
 Energy Flux

F  ECn
 Wave Transformation
• Wave refraction (water depth variation)
• Wave Shoaling (shallow water)
• Wave defraction (obstruction)
 Front Velocity

Lg

1 2 kh 
Cg  1  C
2  sinh 2kh 