1

Abstract

Pre-production is the area where all the sampling, testing and sourcing is done. Studies show that Pre-production stage itself takes almost 60% time of the total order. The cost involved in the stages of Pre-Production is almost three times that of the bulk production. The product development stage involves the trend research anticipating through the ideas of development of prototypes, setting the base range for the product. It also comprises of the fabric selection from fabric fairs and assortment of newly developed fabrics from the supplier. This project deals with three key areas of pre production i.e. fabric management, the delays that occur at the pre production stage and lead time in the stages of PreProduction. The data taken here covers 15 different styles at the pre production stage and one style at the production stage. The lead time for the production depends critically on the time taken for sourcing of raw materials, mainly fabric. The lead time varies as and when there are delays in the TNA. Most of the times, there are delays in the TNA due to late delivery of fabric to the involved factory. The planned lead time is the pre advised time proposed by the merchandiser in the TNA whereas the actual lead time is the extension of dates which occur in the TNA after delays happening in the development of the style. The delays at this stage are the extensions which merchants ask the buyer to give beyond the planned schedule. To save this time and to meet the required in store dates for the season, the best thing to be done is to manage the pre production activities in a better way. Reducing the nonvalue added activities will reduce the delays thus making the entire supply chain more efficient and agile. Instructing the vendors correctly and organising a vendor assurance study before giving the order to any vendor would be beneficial. Also, the vendors here have to understand their responsibilities and their part in meeting the timely delivery. While in the production stage, operator training would be the best method so as to improve the efficiency and quality which the manufacturing industry of today strives for the most. Also, presence of an Industrial engineer is very important for the correct planning and implementation at the time of bulk production. These measures, if followed meticulously, would surely help meeting the deadlines placed by the buyer, thus making our stores ready for the season on time.

Certificate

This is to certify that this Project Report titled FABRIC

MANAGEMENT, THEIR DELAYS AND LEAD TIME ANALYSIS " is based

on my original research work, conducted under the guidance of Dr. D.Samuel Wesley and Mr. T. Murugan towards partial fulfillment of the requirement for award of the Bachelors Degree in Fashion Technology (Apparel Production), of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai. No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledged.

Signature of Author/Researchers

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I take this opportunity to express my profound gratitude and deep regards to my guide Dr. D. Samuel Wesley and Mr. T.Murugan for their exemplary guidance, monitoring and constant encouragement throughout the course of this thesis. The blessing, help and guidance given by them time to time shall carry me a long way in the journey of life on which I am about to embark.

I also take this opportunity to express a deep sense of gratitude to my Company Mentor Mr. Anurag Oberoi (Team leader Ann Taylor LOFT Casual bottoms and Ann Taylor Dress, Triburg, for his cordial support, valuable information and guidance, which helped me in completing this task through various stages.

I am obliged to staff members of Triburg for the valuable information provided by them in their respective fields. I am grateful for their cooperation during the period of my assignment.

CONTENTS

Sl. No.

Description

Page no.

Acknowledgement

Chapter 1 Introduction Background Objective Scope of study Expected benefits Company profile 8 10 9 10 10 11

Sl. No.

Description

Page no.

Chapter 2 Research methodology Research process 13 13

Chapter 3 Product development 23

Chapter 4 Delay analysis 35

Chapter 5 Lead time analysis 47

Sl. No.

Description

Page no.

Chapter 6

Conclusions Developing action plan Limitations & future prospect of project Annexure

68 70 71 72

Chapter 1: An Introduction

OBJECTIVES:
Primary Objectives: 1. To find out reasons for delay at pre-production stage. 2. Understanding the work culture of different departments. 3. Providing probable solutions to the delays. 4. To find the difference between the actual lead time and the And the planned lead time. 5. To reduce lead time of operations by combining different operations.

Secondary Objectives: 1. Understanding the concept & dynamics of delay in Pre-production. 2. To understand the various aspects in Apparel manufacturing which cause delays in preproduction activities.

Research topic: Fabric management, their delays and lead time analysis Research Problem: A study on causes for delays in pre-production activities of
garment manufacturing. Research objectives: To analyse the extent of delays To determine the extent of pre production delays To identify potential areas causing frequent delays To determine factors those can be controllable To determine if there is some difference in the actual and planned lead time.

BACKGROUND:
Evolving consumer preferences whose awareness level of trends, fashion consciousness, disposable income and consumerism is at all time high. This much consumer awareness wants different merchandise at even shorter intervals complimented with greater shopping experience, which is inducing product lifecycles to shrink dramatically. Pre-production delays are the extension of days beyond standard and planned schedule for the activities starting from order enquiry to all approvals required for bulk production. These delays increases the lead time even more than the standard one and hence to survive in the global competitiveness is more difficult for the global manufacturers.

NEED FOR THE STUDY:

Pre production networks are unique for every single enterprise, every single buyer and even for every single order. In case of absence of standardized process network, preproduction activities are highly prone to delays in the process.

SCOPE OF THE STUDY :

It will help us to get a view of process flow of production at pre-production. Make company proactive in approach to forsee kind of delivery schedule and get insight of delays. Establish framework for the set of activities required for excluding the delay element.

EXPECTED BENEFITS:
Reduce delays in shipment Reduction in lead-time (if possible)

LOCATION: TRIBURG , Udhyog vihar sector 20, Gurgaon

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Company Profile: (An introduction)

Triburg is the Largest Apparel Sourcing company in South Asia with offices in 5 countries. It supplies US $500 Million in merchandise for global customers (American Eagle, Armani Exchange, DKNY, Ann Taylor etc.)Product mix ranges from Apparel to Home Furnishings. Triburg is the number one buying office in the Indian subcontinent with years of experience in the Indian sub-continent with over 29 years of experience in the sourcing business. Triburg is the only company in india with expertise in providing a complete product range in textile apparel, leather apparel, shoes , bags and home products including soft lines and hard lines. In 1979, two young technocrats decided to give a new meaning to apparel sourcing in south asia, they targeted their entrepreneurial drive at becoming a market leading enterprise. With their hands on approach, a personal commitment to responsibility, meeting customer needs proactively and delivering world-class quality on time, that vision became a reality. They grew from strength to strength, picking and training their growing team with the same basic values. Their motto is the mission statement which is epitomized in all their 3 regional offices(Dubai, Srilanka and india) and their 22 branch and liaison offices spread over Asia and the United States.

Delays:
Delay means retarding detention and postponement of set of event and activities and to put off them to future time. It is unplanned deferment of a scheduled activity because of something or occurrence that impede its commencement or continuation. It has time associated cost effects on a contact which may be measured in term of time money or a combination thereof. As far as apparel industry is concerned Deviation from quoted lead is referred to as detention Delays occur due to several reasons and these can occur at various stages of product and hence broadly Main causes for the delay can be classified as:1) Technical Problem 2) Employee related Problem 3) System related Problem

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1) Technical Problem : These problems are incurred due to some problem in making out the use of technology effectively and efficiently. Poor utilization of capacities also lead to delay as it would result to piling up of work which would stand pending until the earlier loads are completed.

2) Employee related Problem : The garmenting activities are primarily people driven functions and employee play a very important role. There are several reasons under this category also some of them are miscommunication, wrong interpretation of the information and work get affected as all activities are interdependent on each other. 3) System related Problem : This is mainly related to the process activities and the way entire system works. This includes the time taken in documentation, inter-departmental communication, the release of orders, flow of work, processes followed. The system is unique to every company and it is way the various functions are executed. And developing a system to work is very difficult.

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Methodology

Step I: Define the problem and the research objectives Research problem: A study on causes for delays in pre production activities and fabric management before the fabric ex mill date.

Research objectives: 1. To analyze the extent of delays in executing the orders. 2. To determine the extent of pre-production delays in overall delays. 3. To determine the potential areas causing frequent delays. 4. To determine factors those can be controllable, to avoid delays.

Step II: Develop the research plan: Designing a research plan calls for decisions on data sources, choice of research design, research approaches, research instruments, sampling plan and contact methods. Data Sources: In this research, both secondary as well as primary data will be used. Also help is taken from Internet, magazines and newspapers that helps in getting latest information about the happenings in this sector. The Secondary data also includes Process flow charts, process parameters, and procedures. The primary data consists of survey of various people involved in related activities and Queries from company employees to understand the process better.

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Research Design: Research design is the plan, structure and strategy of investigation conceived so as to obtain answers to research questions and to control variance. A research design specifies the methods and procedures for constructing a particular study. In this research, the design is Descriptive research.

Descriptive research: It can be defined as fact finding with adequate interpretations. Fact finding would involve just data gathering. In descriptive research more is involved in the form of reflective thinking. Reflective thinking relates the facts gathered to the objectives and the assumptions of the study. It involves observing things with out influencing them. The Descriptive research focuses on the factors, which help to understand the various causes for delays in related activities.

Step III: Collect the information : Information collection from the various people involved in production over a period of time is a major task for me in carrying out my research work. On the basis of the proper existing systems assigned for each activity in the organisation there was freedom for collecting data directly or interviewing concerned persons. Step IV: Analyze the information The data had been segregated manually and the analysis work has been done with the help of MS.Excel. The data on Orders which primarily got delayed in Pre-production stage have been analyzed on the basis of the following parameters: Sample submissions Quality problems Lab dips

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LITERATURE REVIEW:

The sourcing decision does not merely depend on the cost of manufacturing and shipping. Additional cost implications of lead-time, inventory, supplier performance, and customer service level are also to be considered. These parameters are further reflected in the inflexibility costs of using suppliers that are inflexible an unresponsive to changes in demand (before, during and after a product selling season) that lead to a disproportionate level of demand amplification across a longer supply network and a number of considerable cost implications. In other words retailers that are unable to respond to sudden market changes will experience vast losses in terms of final markdowns and missed sales opportunities. [1]

Trims and fabric can cause problems for both designers and manufacturers if designers plan their production badly and misjudge the lead times for delivery of fabric and all other components (buttons, zips, labels etc.) When placing an order, time also needs to be factored in for additional processes such as sending patterns out for grading.

Incomplete or poorly timed delivery of components to factories can cause a lot of production problems. Designers sometimes assume that because factories have the fabric and patterns, they will be able to start work, but factories will not usually start work until all of the components have been delivered. Trims often have just as long order lead times as fabrics, which many designers who are just starting out don't seem to be aware of. Sometimes, what seems like the smallest part of the garment - for example the sizing or composition label - can delay the finishing of a garment by weeks. [2]

In satisfying the need for effective service performance the manufacturer must ensure that the correct customer order quantity is produced and supplied to the required quality and at the agreed delivery date through the supply chain. By paying attention to all sources of waste for both innovative and functional products the enterprise will work towards meeting or exceeding the customers expectations. However, the objective of efficiency of the manufacturing facility is derived from a production orientation of an enterprise where its core focus is geared to internal production performance measures of manufacturing product at a rate greater than the norm. The completion of specific customers requirements for order quantity is of a secondary importance. The objective of effectiveness however is derived from a customer oriented manufacturing enterprise where the prime objective is to service the customer order requirements explicitly. This potential conflict of interest from satisfying the
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operating units demands and the customers expectations needs to be reconciled by the short term shop floor planning and control system. [3]

For any designer in todays world, a key to success is having access to a reliable and professional manufacturer or production unit. But many young or new designers are struggling to find manufacturers who have the skills and facilities to make their product. The high-end designer fashion industry (which includes both designers and manufacturers), is small and specialist. As a result, information tends to be

shared in a very informal way, often by word-of-mouth. In fact, some designers are reluctant to share their 'good' manufacturers for fear that it might affect their own production. This means that it can be

hard to get the right names and contacts for manufacturers unless you are already established. Designers are often forced to draw upon their own informal networks as there is no reliable source of information. Part of the problem is that manufacturers don't generally devote time to marketing themselves, due to lack of time, low levels of IT skills and a lack of available finance. Together, these factors make it difficult for emerging designers to find manufacturers, except through referrals. [4] All the business activities should try to operate efficiently. However, this is particularly important for a growing business. In any market, a business needs to be at least as efficient as its main competitors in order to be able to compete and survive in the long-term. A more efficient business will produce lower cost goods than competitors and may generate more profit possibly at lower prices Increasing efficiency will also boost the capacity of a business, assuming there is no change in the number of inputs employed. The capacity of a firm refers to how much a business can produce during a specific period of time. [5]

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ROLE OF MERCHANDISER IN PRE-PRODUCTION

Today's garment merchandisers have to move with frequent changes in demand and the developing technologies utilized in manufacturing and production. To find out customer requirements, they regularly visit retail outlets, and come up with latest updates from frontline staff. In order to keep an eye on developments in sourcing, site visits are made every week to mainland factories to meet suppliers and study production. In garment merchandising, there is no specific rule, so its important to be able to think on one's feet. The main procedures of merchandisers are as followed:

1)Understanding Sample Order

Merchandiser has to understand the buyers requirements after receiving specification in the sample order. In many cases, there are modifications pertaining to the specifications in the order to dispatch on time and the right quality. He has to talk with the in-house veterans on the execution problems of sample orders, as the right information is required in decision making.

2)Managing order route card and production timetable

Merchandiser has to manage every single production schedule and order route card that helps to follow-up the execution in the planned way. It is expected to be acknowledged of the various descriptions like: design, no. of modules, no. of operators, how many processes, and date of dispatch, quantity, output capacity, and deadlines in the schedules. The sub-ordinates are normally assigned to follow-up with execution of the plan. Merchandiser plans the activities depending on the essentials or non-essentials, and top priority are given to the most essential tasks. This is customary that the essential activities are handled personally or with the support of junior merchandisers/sub-ordinates. In a daily schedule, merchandiser has to carry-out and categorize which is the most significant and urgent task. The activity that has to be focused with full attention to sweep-off nonessential activities and have to be to be corrected by prioritizing to meet the deadlines.

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3)Using route card to reschedule activities

To get updated on the current status on the order, the route cards should be utilized. The latest status can be fed into the computers. In case, the buyer ask for the goods prior to the deadline, then merchandiser has to reorganize the schedules to accomplish tasks, output capacity, no. of pieces to be produced daily, substitute arrangements, time availability, supply time, scheduling critical ratio, etc

4)Submitting pre-production samples

The pre-production samples should be provided on time to the concerned buyers. Quality of the sample must be verified. If required, revised samples should be made available to the buyers. Merchandiser should adjust to the required changes demanded by the buyer. The execution of bulk orders should be made only after samples are approved by the buyer. In-process inspection denote between any tasks in order-execution. In case of nonconformation, it is better to focus on the concerns of quality. Merchandisers that work on complete orders have to check deviation to the production teams so that any amendments can be done to avoid the non-conformities.

5)Solving shortage problem

The merchandiser should know about the dearth of any commodity such as fabric, yarn, etc. from the beginning. Actions should be taken immediately to arrange required materials, after discovering the shortage. It is expected that the merchandisers should verify quality of the goods prior to execution of the order. If the material is found unavailable, the superior should be informed about the concern.

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6)Communicating with associated people and buyer

It is essential to communicate with the buyers regarding the order. It is expected to give some time to the buyer to read the sent messages. Merchandiser should go through the messages received from the buyer and reply on time. In many cases, merchandisers have to provide order status to the buyers. Also, merchandiser has to communicate with the people that are in-house, vendors, contractors and job-workers.

Only through the right communication can one meet deadline for the concerned orders. Apart from the above mention procedures, merchandiser has to assign subordinates to help him in the order execution, and direct the procedures. He has to revise his knowledge from time-to-time to know current market trends. To record preferences for all the planned activities, use daily or time log systems. The Merchandiser should find out exact reasons for time consumption. It is necessary to keep record of time value and keeping it safe, as it is going to be shared with concerned parties/buyers. It is certain that merchandising jobs need huge time planning. In Apparel sector there are 2 types of Merchandise, One is Woven merchandise ( Such as Shirt , Pant , Blouse etc ) & the other one is Knit merchandise ( Circular Knit :- Tee shirt , Polo shirt ,Fashion knit like Sweater Etc ) . For quoting a price, merchandiser must calculate fabric consumption first, because fabric price cover more than 60 % of that quoted Price. As a Merchandiser, for any type of Garments Consumption calculation, first we have to know what type of garments we are going to make. For that, we need to know the specific parts name & the measurement of that particular garments parts. Measurement may be in inch or in centimeter (Measurement in Inch for American order & Centimeter for European order). For accurate measurement we need to make a Paper pattern or CAD pattern first . We all know every part of garments have its length & width measurement. Basically on woven garments, we calculate the consumption in Yard/ Doz (2.54 Cm= 1 inch & 36 inch = 1 Yds,). In that case we also need to know the Width of that particular fabric which we are going to use. Now we will calculate each of the separate part based on this Length & Width to have the total consumption, for this we can use Separate part formula as below:(LENGTH X WIDTH) X Number of Parts pcs or Panels / Fabric Width (suitable sewing allowance with each length & width for each application is also to be considered).

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After calculating the consumption of all the part this way, we have to add all that separate parts consumption tighter ,then we add the wastage percentage based on the fabric nature which we are going to use for that particular garments.

We can also workout the consumption of a bottom item by using the below Solid formula for calculate consumption"

Solid formula for calculate required Fabric consumption / Doz :(Total LENGTH X Total WIDTH ) X Number of Parts pcs or Panels / Fabric Width X36 inch = (Total + 5 % Wastage) X 12 Pcs= Result in ..Yds / Doz .

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Fabric/ trims management : TNA

IN STORE
DISTRIBUTION CENTRE(DC)

(AC )AT CONSOLIDATOR (SEA OR AIR)

GARMENT BULK X - FACTORY

PACKING FINISH

FINISHING ENDS

PACKING START

FINISHING STARTS

SEWING ENDS
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CUTTING ENDS

CUTTING STARTS

FABRIC TRIMS INHOUSE

FABRIC TRIMS INHOUSE FABRIC TRIMS

FIT APPROVAL

X- MILL

MILL STARTS DYEING FABRIC

LAB DIP APPROVALS

FABRIC GREIGE GO AHEAD

PROTO SAMPLE
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Chapter 2: Product development

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Content of consecution of entire apparel PD to production and teams involved

Event Trend research

Clustered acts/Chief actors Setting the base for PD process through trend research/ Trend researcher

Brief act illustrations -Collection of trend information through idea trip and shopping from international market, shopping from local market, fashion publication , websites and fabric fairs. -Analysis of collected trend forecasts. -Setting seasonal theme and preliminary planning for product range -Anticipation of product range and setting the base range. -Fabric selection developed fabrics from the suppliers. based on the idea collected from fabric fairs and assortment of newly developed fabrics from the suppliers. Pattern selection from the pattern bank and development of new pattern. Test for fabric shrinkage and effect on the product. - Select product colour, shade, detailing like embroidery, labels, stitching and other details. - Development 1st proto and corrective 2nd or 3rd proto as per necessity. Salesman samples -Confirm the final product range and development of
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Product development

Anticipation through testing ideas and developing prototypes/ Product developers (Designer , product manager, pattern maker, finishing expert)

Actual product range

Setting the product range/Sales team

(product manager, sales representative)

salesman samples. -Sales meeting along with the product range catalogue and product price. -Sales forecasting and potentiality of sales. -Transfer product development knowledge to the production team and check for manufacturability.

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Fabric development:
Pd cycle 1

Suppliers responsibility during product development: Fabric suppliers responsibilities during product development: Accept charges for sample yardage as part of the cost of doing business. Assume liability for failed garment test attributed to fabric problems. Assume liability for latent fabric defects. Review fabrication alternatives and pricing with Sourcing. After fabric and order commitment dates have been determined, confirm in writing: price, sample yardage ship date and bulk ship date to Sourcing.
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Confirm receipt of lab dips, strike-offs, handlooms and sample yardage requests via email to Sourcing within 24 hours of receipt. Produce sample yardage and ship to specified location (Overseas Office/ garment manufacturer). If sample yardage will be late, the fabric supplier must notify the appropriate Sourcing Manager immediately in writing. The delivery of lab dips is expected in 7-10 days, and sample yardage in 2-4 weeks. The Quality Approval Swatch is then passed on to the Sourcing Manager. The R&D testing of fabric is requested. The Fabric Merchandiser forwards the testing report to the fabric supplier. The fabric supplier also provides proposed care instructions.

Fabric trend process: Fabric Director works with Trend Services in November for Spring and May for Fall. Fabric Director meets with Trend Directors to ensure alignment. Color/Fabric/Trend Directors: Initial Concept meeting to present early trend direction to Design Directors and Product Development Teams. Color/Fabric/Trend work sessions with each brand. Fabric Director gathers market intelligence from fabric suppliers. Fabric Director conducts video conference to convey trend direction to Fabric Merchandisers and fabric suppliers . Fabric Director meets with Sourcing to review development fabrics and countries that will be used to develop. Fabric Director: Attend trade shows (sample any new directional fabric ideas); also travel Europe for fashion during Premiere Vision.

Fabric development process: Color palette is finalised Develop Fabric Menu. Designers select qualities to be sampled and prepare Product Packages to be given to Sourcing. Sourcing: Begins sending original fabrics for development to overseas offices/fabric suppliers. Handloom/Sample Yardage is requested.
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Fashion Fabric Fair or Mill Week Sourcing will negotiate fabric price and nominate the garment manufacturer. Garment manufacturer will contact fabric supplier.

Mill evaluation : A mill evaluation may be required. The request for evaluation will be made at the discretion of buyer. The mill will be informed. If required, the evaluation will be conducted by the Sourcing / Quality department. This evaluation will review all aspects of the mills ability to consistently produce high quality product based on formalized quality programs. The mill evaluation includes the following: 1. Yarn Manufacturing If the mill is vertical and produces yarn, a critical review of all quality programs to produce a consistent yarn is conducted. Key areas of evaluation include testing of raw materials, blending and spinning. Color control should be completed at this time to verify yarn properties.

2. Purchased Yarn Does the mill check size and consistency of every shipment of yarn? Is uniformity checked? Are waxes or lubricants controlled? 3. Knitting / Weaving Review of all procedures to ensure accuracy of the fabric being produced 4. Greige goods inspection Review of procedures to ensure accuracy of statistical controls, point systems and proper records.

5. Dyeing / Finishing It involves a thorough review of dyeing techniques, methods and procedural controls of the dyeing department. Written procedures and records are reviewed along with color controls such as spectrophotometers, proper lighting and operator color vision testing.
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6. Final Inspection Review of the mills ability to ship consistently high quality piece goods and maintain records to be used for continuous improvement.

7. Lab Testing of Finished Goods Review of all lab tests and procedures as outlined in the Lab Certification program listed in this manual. Recommendations are given to the management of the mill for corrective action. A mill may request a re-evaluation by providing an action plan to the Evaluator which describes the improvements to be made and gives dates/timetable for improvements.

Identification of fabric defect: Often Inspectors are given the responsibility of inspecting finished garments. The ultimate solution, of course, is to provide actual examples or photographs of both major and minor defects. This section provides a list of defects and explanations and simplifies the language and the judgments used in making visual fabric evaluations. The Quality Control Manager can provide this list to inspectors as a practical tool for achieving uniform inspection decisions. Major and minor defects:

Major defects: A defect if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item to be a second. Minor defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be tremed a second either because of severity or location. When inspecting piece goods prior to cutting it is necessary to rate questionable defects as major since the inspector wont know where the defect would occur on them.

Woven fabric defects: Burl mark: When a slub or extra piece of yarn is woven into the fabric, It is removed by burling tool. This will usually leave an open place in the fabric.

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Drawbacks: Caused by excessive loom tension gradually applied by some abnormal restriction. When the restriction is removed the excess slack is woven into the fabric.

Dropped pick : Caused by the filling insertion mechanism on a shuttleless loom not holding the filling yarn.

End out : Caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to run. The defect will appear as a thin line. Usually caused by the spinning process ; small fibers spun into yarn of another stock.

Harness breakdown: Caused by the harness straps breaking on a conventional loom. There will be a definite pattern change in the weave. Jerk in : Caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvage. Knots: Caused by tying spools of yarn together. Mixed end : Yarn of different fiber blend used on the wrap frame, Resulting in a streak in the fabric. Open reed : Results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to be held apart, exposing the filling yarn.Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored yarns on wrap and shuttle. Slub : Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn. Often it is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process.

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Warp slub as observed in #307049(color :latte) R.no-30162

Knot as observed in #307049(color :latte) R.no-30162

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Crease mark as observed in #307049 (color: incense khaki)

Smash: caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired. Soiling filling or end: Dirty , oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or on package dyed yarn. Spot mark: When the loom is stopped , the yarn elongates under tension ; When loom starts again, the slack is woven into the fabric.

Color evaluation procedure :

Solid Bulk Lab Dip Request All Ann Taylor Solid Lab Dips are requested by an Ann Taylor representative. Each request is processed on an Ann Taylor Bulk Lab Dip request form. This form contains all the pertinent information needed by the Supplier in order to process the request. The following information must be included on each request form: Ann Taylor Requestor Ann Taylor Contact Fabric/Yarn quality Season Division/Department Final approval date Color name Ann Taylor 4 digit color number 3 x 3 for all request made from a corporate standard

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Solid Bulk Lab Dip Submittal All Suppliers are required to follow the procedures when submitting bulk lab dips for Ann Taylor. All lab dips are to be attached to the Ann Taylor Lab Dip Submit form . All of the information provided on the Ann Taylor Request form must be included on the Ann Taylor Lab Dip Submit form in addition to the following: Supplier contact Supplier submit date Supplier lab dip number

All bulk lab dips are to be submitted as follows: One color per submission No more than three variations of each color per submission The lab dip submits should be prescreened by the mill All swatches must be a minimum of 2 x 2 in size. Ann Taylor has Colorists in certain overseas offices to prescreen all submits before sending them to the Ann Taylor Home Office in New York for final approval by the NY Colorist.

Viewing Conditions and Procedures All lab dips must be reviewed in a MacBeth light box & Procedures). Ann Taylor requires all of its light boxes to be calibrated by a certified MacBeth engineer once a year.

Garment wash approval process: This process encompasses denim, non denim and pigment programs. Direct suppliers/mills submit submission to appropriate triburg buying office merchandiser , who passes on the submission to the designer or product development manager . The designer provides any standard and instruction on what needs to be achieved to establish the wash standard. The adopted quality swatch is submitted for hand feel and general appearance approval ; suppliers must submit before wash and after wash swatches for comparison purposes. Washing details must be specified by the supplier.
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Denim programs require to submit a light , medium and dark swatch for approval to represent the range of shade band of the production. All production must fall within this approved band. Non denim and pigment programs require the supplier to submit lab dips before wash and after wash. Lab dips should be washed in the same condition as the future production. The solid color approval form and lab dips are to be used , indicating clearly that it is a garment wash program in the product description field of the approval form. Lab dips will be submitted to the appropriate buying house merchandiser who can pass the lab dips on the appropriate color team to match to the indicated standard.

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Chapter 3 : Delay analysis

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Delay analysis:

Reason of delay Lab dip

Factors responsible Not matching the desired shade; Communication lapses Rejections, Incomplete & improper submission Priorities for selected suppliers

Suggested measure Proper supplier training

Example Unmatched lab dips as per the given instructions (flare occurrence) Rejection of sample yardage or bulk Gsm variation, Seam puckering, csv

Approval delays

Usage of correct composition of fabric and colors Nip impression of padding mangle is to be checked

Quality problems

Changes in specification

Fit sample approved with remarks

Changes should be brought in Pre production sample

Revision in techpacks

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Fish bone diagram:

1) Lab dips

7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 man machine material method Series1

sl. No. 1 2 3 4

reason man machine material method

no. of cases 6 3 2 1

as a percentage 100 50 33.33 16.66

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These delays result from problems related to the prints and colors not matching the specified standards and merchandise not getting the desired hand feel. Print and color related problems: - These problems arise when the supplier is not able to achieve specified prints and colors. The supplier gets the Lap dips and strike offs approved but are somehow unable to get the same quality in bulk.

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2) Approval delays:

4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 man machine method material Series1

sl. No. 1 2 3 4

reason man machine method material

no. of cases 3 4 2 2

as a percentage 27.27 36.36 18.18 18.18

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The second biggest problem which is not allowing the various departments to plan and perform according to their capacities is the problem of approvals i.e. at various stages the departments especially embroidery, printing, knitting and dyeing have to wait for the various approvals. Although there is no permanent solution to this problem we can only work to minimize the loss due to this problem.

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3) Quality issues:

2.5

1.5 Series1 1

0.5

0 man machine method material

sl. No. 1 2 3 4

reason man machine method material

no of cases 1 2 2 1

as a percentage 16.66 33.33 33.33 16.66

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If the pickup after the Padding mangle is not same throughout the width of the fabric then the difference in depth within the width of the fabric is observed. Due to which centre to selvedge variation is observed. The ways to keep a check on csv is to see that the pick up % in left, middle & right position of the fabric after the padding mangle and the nip impression of the padding mangle is to be checked periodically.

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4) Changes in specification:

3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 man machine method material Series1

sl.no.

reason 1 man 2 machine 3 method 4 material

no. of cases 2 0 3 2

as a percentage 28.57 0 42.85 28.57

43

It was found that primarily there was change in specifications because there was no standards being set up for the fit and specification of even basic styles like Ann taylor loft casual bottoms and tops. There are times when the merchandisers sent the sample on old specification instead of getting new specifications and hence again resubmission happens. Sometimes changed specification are not being sent and only comments are sent by the merchandisers and hence they are unable to understand and develop sample according to new specification. So again in this condition resubmission of sample is required is required. These specification changes are the major contributor to the delay in pre-production of particular style example location of logos and pocket positions etc.

44

Root Cause Identification

In each of the areas below, indicate any factors that contributed to the delay in treatment:

Is this a root cause of the event? Contributing Factors YES NO If YES, what contributed to this factor being an issue? YES NO

If YES, is an action plan indicated? YES NO

Shade not matching

Poor Supplier training for building lab dips

Inappropriate submissions.

Flare occurence

Priorities for selected suppliers

Fabric pickup is not same after padding mangle (color distribution is not same)

Fit sample approved with remarks

Minor changes to be brought in later sampling stages

45

Improvement Action Plan

Strategies for Improvement

Measure(s) of Effectiveness

Responsible Person(s)

Action item #1:

Training seminars for workers

Fabric supplier

Action item #2:

Usage of correct composition of fabric and colors

Fabric supplier

Action item #3:

Nip impression of padding mangle is to be checked

Dyeing mill

Action item #4:

Changes should be brought in Pre production sample

vendor

46

Chapter 4: Lead Time Analysis

47

Lead Time Analysis:

Lead time and timely deliveries

Meeting the delivery on time is the most important factor in today market to have good reputation and existence with good market share in this competitive world. To keep abreast with the dynamic market conditions these days one need to be able to get more of the fastest selling merchandise on sale during season whilst its appeal lasts and correspondingly eliminate lines which are not popular and become drain on resources. The main areas of concern are Merchandise development Communication System compatibility Long delivery time

Export market is such where there is lot of innovation in styles and particularly fashion market which very dynamic and shorter run of production are increasing day by day. What make situation more difficult is the interdependence of the activities and it is not at all surprising that the time taken to get goods from concept to market place is often longer than the selling season itself.

The maximum amount of time spend is in preproduction activities. These activities include the process of procuring yarn and fabric, getting the samples made and getting them approved by the buyers. The actual garmenting process does not

48

increase lead time as much as the preproduction activities. Timely deliveries in the department like fabric and color development, garment sampling etc are more important. Reducing lead time is only possible by: Elimination (remove a process) Compression (remove time within a process) Integration (reengineering interfaces between successive processes) Concurrence (operate processes in parallel) Reducing changeover time (Work aid changeover, machine layout changeover, style changeover)

49

Durations in production and pre production

sl.no 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Style number total lead time 307982-sum 130 303123-spr 174 297032-spr 129 301693-spr 162 298509-spr 174 313876-fall 148 308947-fall 92 307068-fall 114 303123-fall 140 31169890 prefall 314628-hol 151 307753-fall 119 307756-fall 140 314239-fall 162 308220-fall 111 Average pre production duration(1) 76 102 87 91 102 79 57 58 100 37 101 74 95 117 66 82.8 production duaration(2) 54 72 42 71 72 69 35 56 40 53 50 45 45 45 45 52.93 % time in pre production 58.5 58.62 67.44 56.17 58.72 53.37 61.95 50.87 71.42 41.11 66.88 62.18 67.85 72.22 59.45 60.45

50

percentage time spent in 1 & 2

39% 1 2

61%

200 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Series2 Series1

51

Planned vs Actual lead time

sl No.

style no. 3079282sum 303123-spr 297032-spr 301693-spr 298509-spr 313876-fall 308947-fall 307068-fall 303123-fall 311698prefall 314628-hol 307753-fall 307756-fall 314239-fall 308220-fall

Actual lead time

Planned lead time

Difference

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

153 174 129 162 174 148 109 100 140 90 151 150 118 162 109 137.9333333

130 150 119 151 165 136 92 114 125 90 146 119 140 156 111 129.6

23 24 10 11 9 12 17 14 15 0 5 31 22 6 2 201

200 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Series1 Series2

Interpretation: As it can be seen that mean actual lead time is higher than mean planned lead time, so it can be said that there is significant difference between the planned and the actual lead time.

52

Reducing lead time in the production stage of style # 307753

Operation bulletin of style #307753

sl. No. Operation CUTTING SECTION Machine Sam Remarks

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Block cutting Fusing at Fusing panel recut Fix cutting rest all panel Notch should be as per the pattern Cutting check as per pattern Issue cutting

Straight knife Fusing m/c Band knife Straight knife Table Table Table

SEWING SECTION NECK FACING 1 2 3 4 5 Side seam of neck facing Side joint neck facing Serge neck facing Hem neck facing Mark the neck facing SLEEVE 53 A C A C 0.6 0.48 0.58 0.82 0.62
COMBINE 1 , 3 COMBINE 2 , 7 COMBINE 1 , 3 COMBINE 4 , 5 , 9

6 7 8 9 10

Join the sides of sleeve o/l sides of sleeve Serge the sleeve open Press the sleeve open for blind hem Hem at sleeve opening UPPER BODY

C A A B

0.52 0.38 COMBINE 2 , 7 0.88 0.88 COMBINE 4 , 5 , 9 1.38

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Mark the front for lace attatch Attatch lace at front body Finish lace attatch at front body Attatch the front yoke to upper body O/l the front yoke joint Attatch back yoke O/l at back yoke Match front upper body to back upper body Serge at shoulder Shoulder attatch Match the neck facing Attatch neck facing Back stitch at neck facing attatch Sew side seam O/l at side seam attatch Match sleeve to upper body Attatch sleeve O/l at sleeve attatch Sew gather at waist line Side joint waist band Crease the waist band and mark Attatch waist band SHELL SKIRT

C C C A D A A C C C C A C A D C C

0.62 0.62 0.68 0.72 0.62 0.88 0.68 0.52 0.82 0.58 0.52 1.12 0.92 0.86 0.62 0.52 1.25 0.78 0.88 0.76 0.92 1.28

SHARE 12 , 15 COMBINE 14 , 17 SHARE 12 , 15 COMBINE 14 , 17

SHARE 27 , 33

33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41

Sew back darts Sew pleat at front waist line Serge at centre back Attatch centre back Bottom serge Sew the side seam O/l at side seam Press the bottom hem Bottom hem ASSEMBLY 54

D D A C A C A B

0.85 0.88 0.78 0.68 0.78 0.88 0.68 0.92 1.32

SHARE 27 , 33 SHARE 34 , 41 SHARE 36 , 39

SHARE 36 , 39 SHARE 34 , 41

42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51

Match upper body to lower body Attatch upper body and lower body Finish waist band with crack stitch Serge at zip open Attatch zip at centre back Finish zipper end and top Top stitch at zipper attatch Tack zipper at bottom Make and attatch main label at neck facing W/c lable attatch FINISHING Marking for button attatch and button hole Button watch Button hole making Spotting (if reqd) Thread cutting General checking Ironing Measurement checking Folding and packing

C C A C C C C C C

0.52 1.28 1.78 0.78 1.28 0.78 1.02 0.32 0.85 0.45

COMBINE 43,51 COMBINE 44 , 46 , 47 COMBINE 44 , 46 , 47 COMBINE 44 , 46 , 47 COMBINE 49 , 48 COMBINE 48 , 49 COMBINE 43,51

C C C C C C D D D

1.33 3.02 0.84 1.14 0.42

MACHINE SUMMARY Type of m/c 3 thread overlock(A) Blind hem chain(B) SNLS SNLS - UBT(D) TOTAL

NO.s 8 2 17 6 33

55

Observations acquired after combining several operations:

Sl. No.

Operations combined
1 Side seam of neck facing 3 Serge neck facing

total sam
1.18

observed value
0.774

1.4 1.2 1 0.8 Series1 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 total sam observed value Series2

Total sam when operations are performed individually= 1.18 Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 0.774 Savings = 0.406

56

Sl. No. Operations combined

4 Hem neck facing 5 Mark the neck facing 9 Press the sleeve open for blind hem

Total sam

Observed value

2.32

1.704

2.5

1.5 Series1 1 Series2

0.5

0 total sam observed value

Total sam when operations are performed individual = 2.32 Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 1.704 Savings = 0.616

57

Sl. No. Operations combined

2 Side joint neck facing 7 o/l sides of sleeve

Total sam
0.86

Observed value
0.594

1 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0 total sam observed value Series1 Series2

Total sam when operations are performed individual = 0.86 Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 0.594 Savings = 0.266

58

Sl. No.

Operations combined
12 Attatch lace at front body 15 O/l the front yoke joint

Total sam
1.24

Observed value
0.806

1.4 1.2 1 0.8 Series1 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 total sam observed value Series2

Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.24 Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 0.806 Savings = 0.434

59

Sl. No. Operations combined

14 Attatch the front yoke to upper body 17 O/l at back yoke

Total sam
1.4

Observed value
0.924

1.6 1.4 1.2 1 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 total sam observed value Series1 Series2

Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.4 Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 0.924 Savings = 0.476

60

Sl. No. Operations combined

27 O/l at sleeve attatch 33 Sew back darts

Total sam
1.63

Observed value
1.035

1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2 1 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 total sam observed value Series1 Series2

Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.63 Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 1.035 Savings = 0.595

61

Sl. No. Operations combined

34 Sew pleat at front waist line 41 bottom hem

Total sam
2.2

Observed value
1.276

2.5

1.5 Series1 1 Series2

0.5

0 total sam observed value

Total sam when operations are performed individual = 2.2 Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 1.276 Savings = 0.924

62

Sl. No. Operations combined

36 Attatch centre back 39 O/l at side seam

Total sam
1.36

Observed value
0.884

1.6 1.4 1.2 1 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 total sam observed value Series1 Series2

Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.36 Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 0.884 Savings = 0.476

63

Sl. No. Operations combined

44 Finish waist band with crack stitch 46 Attatch zip at centre back 47 Finish zipper end and top

Total sam

Observed value

3.84

3.294

3.9 3.8 3.7 3.6 3.5 3.4 3.3 3.2 3.1 3 total sam observed value Series1 Series2

Total sam when operations are performed individual = 3.84 Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 3.294 Savings = 0.546

64

Sl. No. Operations combined

48 Top stitch at zipper attatch 49 Tack zipper at bottom

Total Sam
1.34

Observed value
1.116

1.6 1.4 1.2 1 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 total sam observed value Series1 Series2

Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.34 Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 1.116 Savings = 0.224

65

Sl. No. Operations combined

51 W/c lable attatch 43 Attatch upper body and lower body

Total sam
1.73

Observed value
1.415

2 1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2 1 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 total sam observed value Series1 Series2

Total sam when operations are performed individual = 1.73 Observed value when the stated operations are combined = 1.415 Savings = 0.315

66

Calculations:

Total sam without any combination or sharing = 41.14 Observed value after combining several operations together = 36.482 Total savings = 4.658 Total savings in terms of percentage = 11.32%

67

Conclusions :

A penny saved is a penny earned. The delay reduction and Control measures suggested herein when implemented will result in limiting the huge amount of money that supplier pays against delayed orders and will also increase On time delivery rate thus meeting the TNA and In store dates. The Senior Merchandisers, Merchandiser and Product and Quality team were asked to categorize the cause of delays into controllable and un-controllable delays The actual lead time is higher than the planned lead time, so it can be said that there is significant difference between the planned and the actual lead time which could be reduced if the operators are trained properly as well as the vendors are instructed correctly. Everyone has to understand their responsibility so that the job is done properly and timely. Lead time reduction was seen possible in the pre production and production stages by implementing several methods of combining , sharing and eliminating several activities which brought control the lead time upto 11 % in the production of style no. #307753 Whereas after following the suggested measures based on the root cause analysis the reduction of delays in some pre production activities were summed as :

Delay area

Duration

Lab dips

7 days

Duration after following measures 4 days

Percentage reduction 40

Approval(sy)

15 days

10-12 days

26

Quality

20- 23 days

15-16 days

22

68

Results:

After combination of some operations in the operation bulletin the lead time was reduced to 11 %.
time taken (in minutes) total sam observed value 41.14 36.48 4.658 difference

After following the suggested measure from the improvement action plan the delays occurring in the approval of lab dips , sample yardage and quality issue was controlled to 40 % , 26% and 22% respectively.

Delay area Lab dips Approval(sy) Quality

Percentage reduction 40 26 22

69

Improvement Action Plan

Pre-production stage: Strategies for Improvement Measure(s) of Effectiveness Responsible Person(s)

Action item #1:

Training seminars for workers

Fabric supplier

Action item #2:

Usage of correct composition of fabric and colors

Fabric supplier

Action item #3:

Nip impression of padding mangle is to be checked

Dyeing mill

Action item #4:

Changes should be brought in Pre production sample

Vendor

70

Limitations and scope for further study

A project when completes lays the foundation for another Research study, for nothing is ever perfect. The scope and limit of the project did not permit the implementation of each suggested measure.

Many times it was very difficult to conduct in depth interviews since the department merchandisers didnt have much time to devote.

Raw data collected was for two months available at Triburg centre of learning ,so all suggestions and recommendations are applicable only to the said company.

Due to less exposure of the vendors side it allowed only a few days in a week to seek any kind of data collection.

71

REFERENCES :

1) http://www.equal-works.com/resources/contentfiles/307.pdf 2) http://www.nesta.org.uk/publications/toolkits/assets/features/case_study_trims__choice_procurement_and_timely_delivery 3) http://www.equal-works.com A new market opportunity Johanna Bergvall-Forsberg William Lee Innovation Centre University of Manchester

4) http://www.nesta.org.uk/publications/toolkits/assets/features/case_study__finding_a_production_unitmanufacturer

5) http://www.tutor2u.net/business/gcse/production_efficiency_improvements.html. 6) Overview of the Indian garment industry By : M. K. Panthaki 7) http://www.docstoc.com/docs/87615939/Fabric-and-GarmentPerformance-Testing. 8) http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/06/pre-productionprocesses-in-garment-html.

72

Annexures

73