Contents

1. Introduction--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3 2. Background of the Study----------------------------------------------------------------- 4 2.1. Textile------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5 2.2. Knitting----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6 2.3. Elastomeric Fibre------------------------------------------------------------------ 7 2.4. Properties of Elastomeric Fiber-------------------------------------------------2.5. !istor" of Elastomeric #arn---------------------------------------------------- 12 2.6. $a% &aterials of Elastomeric #arn------------------------------------------- 14 2.7. T"pes of Elastomeric #arn----------------------------------------------------- 16 2. . T'e &an(fact(ring Process----------------------------------------------------- 1 2.). *+entification of ,pan+ex #arn------------------------------------------------- 24 2.1-. $ecent .e/elopments of Elastomeric #arn--------------------------------- 26 2.11. Test of Elastomeric 0oo+s---------------------------------------------------- 27 2.12. Pro+(ct of Elastomeric #arn-------------------------------------------------- 2) 2.13. 1"cra 0aller"-------------------------------------------------------------------- 31 3. Experimental------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 32 3.1. Knitting &ac'ine 2 its ,pecification----------------------------------------- 33 3.2. Pro+(ction of t'e 3nitte+ Fabric %it' 1"cra "arns-------------------------- 34 3.3. Experimental $es(lts an+ 4nal"sis-------------------------------------------- 3) 3.3.1. 5ales per *nc'---------------------------------------------------------- 43.3.2. 6o(rses per *nc'------------------------------------------------------- 41 3.3.3. ,titc' 1engt'------------------------------------------------------------ 42 3.3.4. 0,&--------------------------------------------------------------------- 43 3.3.5. ,'rin3age---------------------------------------------------------------- 44 3.3.6. Extensibilit"------------------------------------------------------------ 4
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 1

4. Di cu ion of !e ult --------------------------------------------------------------------- 54.1. Effect of 5ales per *nc'-------------------------------------------------------- 54.2. Effect of 6o(rse per *nc'------------------------------------------------------- 51 4.3. Effect of ,titc' lengt'----------------------------------------------------------- 52 4.4. Effect of 0,&-------------------------------------------------------------------- 53 4.5. Effect of ,'rin3age-------------------------------------------------------------- 54 4.6. Effect of Extensibilit"----------------------------------------------------------- 55 ". #onclu ion--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 56 $. %ppendix----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 57 6.1. 1ist of Table---------------------------------------------------------------------- 57 6.2. 1ist of Fig(re--------------------------------------------------------------------- 5 6.3. 7ibliograp'"---------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) 6.4. $eferences------------------------------------------------------------------------ 6-

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 2

1. Introduction:
7angla+es' is mainl" a +e/eloping co(ntr" an+ +epen+s on agric(lt(re. 7(t no% a +a"s 7angla+es' econom" is going to be +epen+ing on textile sector. 8(t of fi/e basic '(man +eman+s clot'ing is one of t'em. T'e Textile in+(str" 'as pla"e+ an important role in 7angla+es'9s econom" for a long time. 6(rrentl": t'e Textile in+(str" in 7angla+es' acco(nts for 45; of all in+(strial emplo"ment 2 contrib(tes 5; to t'e total national income. 4 '(ge 7 ; of t'e co(ntr"9s export earnings come from textiles 2 apparel: accor+ing to t'e latest fig(res a/ailable. 4t present t'e textile in+(str" is %ell (se+ to tec'nological c'ange an+ to ta3e f(ll a+/antage rapi+l" of all rele/ant mo+ern tec'nolog". .(e to (se of mo+ern tec'ni<(e textile sector is going to be strengt'ening +a" b" +a" an+ its r(le pla"s a /ital part in t'e +e/elopment of o(r econom". Elastomeric fabric is t'e special t"pes of 3nitte+ fabrics mostl" (se in fas'ion an+ +ecorati/e p(rpose. Elastomeric fabric originall" +e/elope+ as a replacement for r(bber: 1#6$4=: b" .(Pont: is remar3able for its abilit" to stretc' man" times its original lengt' - an+ t'en snap bac3 to its starting si>e %it' no loss to its spring. 4 to(c' of 1"cra a++s comfort an+ free+om of mo/ement an+ impro/ing t'e fit: s'ape retention: +rape an+ %rin3le resistance of t'e apparel. T'ere is reall" no s(c' t'ing as a commerciall" a/ailable fabric ma+e entirel" of 1"cra? it@s ne/er (se+ alone: b(t is al%a"s combine+ %it' anot'er fiber Aor fibersB: bot' nat(ral an+ man-ma+e. 4s little as 2 percent 1"cra is eno(g' to impro/e a %o/en fabric@s mo/ement: +rape: an+ it@s 3nac3 for 'ol+ing its s'ape. 5'ate/er t'e blen+: fabrics en'ance+ %it' 1"cra 3eep t'e loo3 an+ feel of t'e maCorit" fiber.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 3

2. Background of the Study:

,pan+ex is a s"nt'etic pol"mer. 6'emicall": it is ma+e (p of a long-c'ain pol"gl"col combine+ %it' a s'ort +iisoc"anate: an+ contains at least 5; pol"(ret'ane. *t is an elastomer: %'ic' means it can be stretc'e+ to a certain +egree an+ it recoils %'en release+. T'ese fibers are s(perior to r(bber beca(se t'e" are stronger: lig'ter: an+ more /ersatile. *n fact: span+ex fibers can be stretc'e+ to almost 5--; of t'eir lengt'. T'is (ni<(e elastic propert" of t'e span+ex fibers is a +irect res(lt of t'e material@s c'emical composition. T'e fibers are ma+e (p of n(mero(s pol"mer stran+s. T'ese stran+s are compose+ of t%o t"pes of segmentsD long: amorp'o(s segments an+ s'ort: rigi+ segments. *n t'eir nat(ral state: t'e amorp'o(s segments 'a/e a ran+om molec(lar str(ct(re. T'e" intermingle an+ ma3e t'e fibers soft. ,ome of t'e rigi+ portions of t'e pol"mers bon+ %it' eac' ot'er an+ gi/e t'e fiber str(ct(re. 5'en a force is applie+ to stretc' t'e fibers: t'e bon+s bet%een t'e rigi+ sections are bro3en: an+ t'e amorp'o(s segments straig'ten o(t. T'is ma3es t'e amorp'o(s segments longer: t'ereb" increasing t'e lengt' of t'e fiber. 5'en t'e fiber is stretc'e+ to its maxim(m lengt': t'e rigi+ segments again bon+ %it' eac' ot'er. T'e amorp'o(s segments remain in an elongate+ state. T'is ma3es t'e fiber stiffer an+ stronger. 4fter t'e force is remo/e+: t'e amorp'o(s segments recoil an+ t'e fiber ret(rns to its relaxe+ state. 7" (sing t'e elastic properties of span+ex fibers: scientists can create fabrics t'at 'a/e +esirable stretc'ing an+ strengt' c'aracteristics. T'e primar" (se for span+ex fibers is in fabric. T'e" are (sef(l for a n(mber of reasons. First: t'e" can be stretc'e+ repeate+l": an+ %ill ret(rn almost exactl" bac3 to original si>e an+ s'ape. ,econ+: t'e" are lig't%eig't: soft: an+ smoot'. 4++itionall": t'e" are easil" +"e+. T'e" are also resilient since t'em are resistant to abrasion an+ t'e +eleterio(s effects of bo+" oils: perspiration: an+ +etergents. T'e" are compatible %it' ot'er materials: an+ can be sp(n %it' ot'er t"pes of fibers to pro+(ce (ni<(e fabrics: %'ic' 'a/e c'aracteristics of bot' fibers. ,pan+ex is (se+ in a /ariet" of +ifferent clot'ing t"pes. ,ince it is lig't%eig't an+ +oes not restrict mo/ement: it is most often (se+ in at'letic %ear. T'is incl(+es s(c' garments as s%ims(its: bic"cle pants: an+ exercise %ear. T'e form-fitting properties of span+ex ma3e it a goo+ for (se in (n+er-garments. !ence: it is (se+ in %aist ban+s: s(pport 'ose: bras: an+ briefs. T'ere are /ario(s t"pes of problem arise +(ring 1"cra fee+ in t'e 3nit fabric after pro+(ction i.e. s'rin3age: extensibilit" etc. &ainl" as t'ese reasons t'is proCect is +one.
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 4

2.1. Textile:
4lt'o(g' man9s first articles of clot'ing an+ f(rnis'ing %ere probabl" animal s3in %arps: sometimes stitc'e+ toget'er (sing bone nee+les an+ animal sine%s: 'e soon attempte+ to manip(late fibro(s materials into textile fabrics: enco(rage+ b" experience gaine+ from interlacing branc'es: lea/es an+ grasses in t'e pro+(ction of primiti/e s'elters.

&igure 1' (hotograph of %ncient )extile )echnology. T'e %orl+ ETextile9 originates from t'e 1atin /erb Texere F to %ea/e F b(t: as t'e Textiles *nstit(te9 Terms an+ .efinitions G E &clint"re explains: 4 textile %as originall" a %o/en fabric: b(t t'e terms textile an+ pl(ral textiles are no% also applie+ to fibres: filaments an+ "arn: nat(ral an+ man(fact(re+ an+ most pro+(cts for %'ic' t'ese are a principle ra% material. T'is +efinition embraces: for example: fibre-base+ pro+(cts in t'e follo%ing categoriesD t'rea+s: cor+s: ropes an+ brai+sD %o/en: 3nitte+ an+ non%o/en fabrics: lace: nets: an+ embroi+er"D 'osier": 3nit%ear an+ ma+e-(p apparelD 'o(se'ol+ textiles: soft f(rnis'ing an+ (p'olster"D carpets an+ ot'er floor co/eringD tec'nical: in+(strial textiles: incl(+ing geotextiles an+ me+ical textile. .escripti/e of textile as +efine in one abo/e an+ of t'e ra% materials: processes: mac'iner": b(il+ings: craft: tec'nolog": personal (se+ in: an+ t'e organi>ations an+ acti/ities connecte+ %it': t'eir man(fact(re.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. "

2.2. Knitting:
T'e term 3nitting +escribes t'e tec'ni<(e of constr(cting textile str(ct(res b" forming a contin(o(s lengt' of "arn into col(mns of /erticall" intermes'e+ loops. *t refers 'ea/il" on t'e a/ailabilit" of fine: strong: (niforml" sp(n "arn. T'e term EKnitting9 +ates from t'e mi+-sixteent' cent(r": earlier %or+s s(c' as t'e ,axon Ecn"ttan9 an+ t'e ,ans3rit Ena'"at9 being less precise: in+icating t'at 3nitting probabl" e/ol/e+ from so(rces s(c' as t'e experience gaine+ b" 3notting an+ 6optic 3nitting.

&igure 2' (hotograph of Decorati*e +nitted ,ood . *n 6optic 3nitting or Honbin+ing: an (psi+e-+o%n loope+ str(ct(re is pro+(ce+ (sing a single-e"e+ nee+le Ali3e a se%ing nee+leB containing a s'ort lengt' of "arn. Hormall": crosse+ loops are forme+. T'e tec'ni<(e can ac'ie/e fas'ioning: closing: circ(lar 3nitting an+ stitc' patterning. 1eicester9s Ge%r" 5all &(se(m possesses a soc3 of cross stitc' constr(ction from t'e 4ntinoe site in $oman Eg"pt +ating from t'e fift' cent(r" 4. I1J.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. $

2.3. Elastomeric i!re:

Elastomeric fibre are al o kno-n a Spandex or elastane or .ycra fi/er. Spandex or elastane is a s"nt'etic fiber 3no%n for its exceptional elasticit". *t is stronger an+ more +(rable t'an r(bber: its maCor non-s"nt'etic competitor. *t %as in/ente+ in 1)5) b" .(Pont c'emist Gosep' ,'i/ers. 5'en first intro+(ce+: it re/ol(tioni>e+ man" areas of t'e clot'ing in+(str". K,pan+exK is a generic name an+ not +eri/e+ from t'e c'emical name of t'e fiber: as are most man(fact(re+ fibers: b(t an extension of t'e %or+ expan+.Ka+olp': ,ara G. Textiles. K,pan+exK is t'e preferre+ name in Hort' 4merica? else%'ere it is referre+ to as KelastaneK. FactD +ateL4(g(st 2--

&igure 3' (hotograph of Ela tomeric &i/re to 0arn. T'e most famo(s bran+ name associate+ %it' span+ex is 1"cra, a tra+emar3 of *n/ista Aformerl" part of .(PontB. ,(c' is t'e prominence of t'e 1"cra bran+ t'at it 'as become a genericise+ tra+emar3 in man" parts of t'e %orl+: (se+ to +escribe an" 3in+ of span+ex. *n/ista +isco(rages s(c' (se: protecting its tra+emar3 /igoro(sl". 8t'er span+ex tra+emar3s incl(+e Elaspan Aalso *n/ista@sB: $8*64 an+ Dorla tan A4sa'i KaseiB an+ 1inel AFillatticeB.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 1

2.". #ro$erties of Elastomeric i!er:

,eneral #haracteri tic '
6an be stretc'e+ repeate+l" an+ still reco/er to /er" near its original lengt' an+ s'ape. 0enerall": can be stretc'e+ more t'an 5--; %it'o(t brea3ing. ,tronger: more +(rable an+ 'ig'er retracti/e force t'an r(bber. 1ig't%eig't: soft: smoot': s(pple. *n garments: pro/i+es a combination of comfort an+ fit pre/ents bagging an+ sagging. !eat-settable - facilitates transforming p(c3ere+ fabrics into flat fabrics: or flat fabrics into permanent ro(n+e+ s'apes. ."eable. $esistant to +eterioration b" bo+" oils: perspiration: lotions or +etergents. 4brasion resistant. 5'en fabrics containing span+ex are se%n: t'e nee+le ca(ses little or no +amage from Mnee+le c(ttingN compare+ to t'e ol+er t"pes of elastic materials. 4/ailable in fiber +iameters ranging from 1- +enier to 25-- +enier. 4/ailable in clear an+ opa<(e l(ster9s.

#hemical (ropertie '

7ot' r(bber an+ span+ex fibers are s(bCect to oxi+ati/e attac3 b" 'eat: lig't: atmosp'eric contaminants s(c' as H8x: an+ acti/e c'lorine. $(bber is especiall" s(bCect to oxi+ati/e +egra+ation from expos(re to o>one %'ereas (ret'ane pol"mers are relati/el" inert. 7ot' r(bber an+ span+ex fibers are li3el" to contain antioxi+ants? t'e span+ex fibers ma" also be stabili>e+ to (ltra /iolet lig't an+ to atmosp'eric contaminants t'at ca(se +iscoloration. ,pan+ex fibers (se a /ariet" of monomeric
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 2

an+ pol"meric 'in+ere+ p'enolic-t"pe antioxi+ants A</B. &an" span+ex fibers also incl(+e (ltra /iolet screeners base+ on '"+rox"ben>otria>oles Asee 4HT*8O*.4HT,? PQ ,T47*1*RE$,B. ,e/eral pro+(cers incl(+e t'e more recentl" +e/elope+ 'in+ere+ amine-t"pe lig't stabili>ers t'at apparentl" act as ra+ical sca/engers an+ t'erefore also possess antioxi+ant acti/it". 6ompo(n+s %it' tertiar" amine f(nctionalit" are commonl" a++e+ to span+ex fibers to in'ibit +iscoloration from atmosp'eric poll(tants s(c' as oxi+es of nitrogen an+ c'emicals t'at +e/elop (n+er smog-li3e con+itions. ,pan+ex pro+(cers 'a/e been +esigning stabili>ers t'at are 'ig'l" compatible %it' t'e segmente+ (ret'ane pol"mer to en'ance t'eir effecti/eness an+ +(rabilit". ,pan+ex fibers base+ on pol"ester soft segments are s(sceptible to mil+e% attac3 in en+ (ses s(c' as s%im%ear? t'is t"pe of +egra+ation is minimi>e+ b" eit'er (sing antimil+e% a++iti/es or b" soft segment str(ct(ral mo+ifications. Elastomeric fibers ten+ to s%ell in certain organic sol/ents? r(bber fibers s%ell in '"+rocarbon sol/ents s(c' as 'exane. ,pan+ex fibers become 'ig'l" s%ollen in c'lorinate+ sol/ents s(c' as tetrac'loroet'"lene APercleneB. 4lt'o(g' t'e p'"sical properties of span+ex fibers ret(rn to normal after t'e sol/ent e/aporates: consi+erable amo(nts of its stabili>ers ma" 'a/e been extracte+. T'erefore: t'e +e/elopment of stabili>ers t'at are more resistant to sol/ent extraction 'as become important as sol/ent sco(ring +(ring mill processing replaces a<(eo(s sco(ring at man" mills: especiall" in E(rope. ,pan+ex fibers 'a/e an affinit" for +isperse+ or aci+ +"es? r(bber fibers normall" cannot be +"e+. Perfect +"e matc'es bet%een span+ex an+ 'ar+ fibers are (s(all" not necessar" beca(se t'e elastomer is %ell-'i++en in t'e fabric. 6lear span+ex fibers can be left (n+"e+ %'en plie+ %it' +"e+ 'ar+ fiber "arns: t'(s a/oi+ing loss of stretc' properties from con+itions of +"eing or bleac'ing. H"lonF span+ex combinations are often +"e+ %it' +isperse +"es: or: for better fastness: %it' aci+ +"es. $etar+ers ma" be nee+e+ to pre/ent t'e n"lon from +epleting t'e aci+ +"e from t'e bat' before t'e span+ex fiber is +"e+. 5it' pol"esterFspan+ex fabrics: +isperse +"es 'a/e been (se+ %it' press(re +"eing or carriers to increase t'e +"eing rate for t'e 'ar+ fiber. !o%e/er: span+ex fibers ex'ibit relati/el" poor %et fastness to +isperse +"es: an+ t'eir retracti/e po%er can be re+(ce+ (n+er press(re +"eing con+itions nee+e+ for f(ll s'a+es on +isperse +"e+ pol"esters. For t'is reason: man" pol"ester span+ex fabrics no% contain cationic +"eable pol"ester in combination %it' clear AtransparentB span+ex fiber. ,ince t'e span+ex fibers 'a/e lo% affinit" for cationic +"es: fastness is not a problem: an+ t'e fabrics can be +"e+ at lo%er temperat(res to preser/e span+ex retracti/e po%er.

(hy ical (ropertie '

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 3

)a/le 1' 4ariou )ype of (hy ical (ropertie of Spandex yarn and !elated #ompari on.

Propert"
,i>es a/ailable Tenacit": HStex Elongation: ; &o+(l(s:e HStex

,pan+ex
1.1F25- tex -.-5F-.13 4--F --.-13F-.-45

Extr(+e+ $(bber
16F61- tex -.-2F-.-3 6--F7--.--4F-.--5 ,tabilit" Fair Poor Poor Poor Poor Fair Hot +"eable Poor 1.2-.57-1.3-

6(t $(bber
2.5F21 m +ia -.-1F-.-2 6--F7--.--2F-.--4 Fair Poor Poor Poor Poor Fair Hot +"eable Poor

PQ lig't 0oo+ 8>one 0oo+ H8x Fair: "ello%s 4cti/e 6l Fair: "ello%s 7o+" oils Fair 6osmetics 0oo+ ."eabilit" ."eable 4brasion Qer" goo+ resistance .ensit" AgS cm B .r" Tenacit" AgS+B Elongation at brea3 A;B 6ommercial region A;B
3

5echanical (ropertie '

*n bot' r(bber t'rea+ an+ span+ex fibers: mec'anical properties ma" be /arie+ o/er a relati/el" broa+ range. *n r(bber: /ariations are ma+e in t'e +egree of crosslin3ing or /(lcani>ation b" c'anging t'e amo(nt of /(lcani>ing agent: (s(all" s(lf(r: an+ t'e accelerants (se+. *n span+ex fibers: man" more possibilities for /ariation are a/ailable an+ t'ere are a large n(mber of pol"mers in t'e classification. &ec'anical properties A</B ma" be affecte+ b" c'anging t'e partic(lar pol"ester or pol"et'er gl"col: +iisoc"anate: +iamineAsB: an+ monoamine (se+? t'e" can be f(rt'er mo+ifie+ b" c'anging t'e molec(lar %eig't of t'e gl"col an+ b" c'anging t'e gl"colF +iisoc"anate molar ratio A):1-B. T'e p'"sical c'aracteristics of c(rrent commercial r(bber an+ span+ex fibers are s(mmari>e+ in Table 1. T"pical stressFstrain c(r/es for elastomeric fibers: 'ar+ fibers: an+ 'ar+ fibers %it' mec'anical stretc' properties are compare+ in t'e follo%ing Fig(re.
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 16

&igure 4' Stre 7Strain #ur*e ' 4: 'ar+ fiber: e.g.: n"lon? 7: biconstit(ent n"lonF span+ex fiber? 6: mec'anical stretc' n"lon? .: span+ex fiber? E: extr(+e+ latex t'rea+. To con/ert HStex to gTfS+en: m(ltipl" b" 11.33.

2.%. &istory of Elastomeric 'arn:

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 11

T'e +e/elopment of span+ex %as starte+ +(ring 5orl+ 5ar **. 4t t'is time: c'emists too3 on t'e c'allenge of +e/eloping s"nt'etic replacements for r(bber. T%o primar" moti/ating factors prompte+ t'eir researc'. First: t'e %ar effort re<(ire+ most of t'e a/ailable r(bber for b(il+ing e<(ipment. ,econ+: t'e price of r(bber %as (nstable an+ it fl(ct(ate+ fre<(entl". .e/eloping an alternati/e to r(bber co(l+ sol/e bot' of t'ese problems. 4t first: t'eir goal %as to +e/elop a +(rable elastic stran+ base+ on s"nt'etic pol"mers. *n 1)4-: t'e first pol"(ret'ane elastomers %ere pro+(ce+. T'ese pol"mers pro+(ce+ millable g(ms: %'ic' %ere an a+e<(ate alternati/e to r(bber. 4ro(n+ t'e same time: scientists at .( Pont pro+(ce+ t'e first n"lon pol"mers. T'ese earl" n"lon pol"mers %ere stiff an+ rigi+: so efforts %ere beg(n to ma3e t'em more elastic. 5'en scientists fo(n+ t'at ot'er pol"(ret'anes co(l+ be ma+e into fine t'rea+s: t'e" +eci+e+ t'at t'ese materials mig't be (sef(l in ma3ing more stretc'able n"lons or in ma3ing lig't%eig't garments. T'e first span+ex fibers %ere pro+(ce+ on an experimental le/el b" one of t'e earl" pioneers in pol"mer c'emistr": Farbenfabri3en 7a"er. !e earne+ a 0erman patent for 'is s"nt'esis in 1)52. T'e final +e/elopments of t'e fibers %ere %or3e+ o(t in+epen+entl" b" scientists at .(Pont an+ t'e P.,. $(bber 6ompan". .(Pont (se+ t'e bran+ name 1"cra an+ began f(ll scale man(fact(re in 1)62. T'e" are c(rrentl" t'e %orl+ lea+er in t'e pro+(ction of span+ex fibers. 1ea+ing +esigners claim fabric inno/ation to be t'eir most f(n+amental inspiration as t'e" stri/e to ma3e garments %it' t'e flexibilit" an+ 'ig' performance /al(es nee+e+ to matc' t'e lifest"le of t'e t%ent"-first cent(r" cons(mer. People to+a" expect more from t'eir clot'es t'an st"le alone? mar3et researc' 'ig'lig'ts t'at comfort: ease of care: +(rabilit" an+ lig'tness are all extremel" important. 1#6$4= fiber %as in/ente+ in 1)5 b" a team of scientists: originall" as a replacement for r(bber in corsetr". 7efore 1#6$4= fiber %as in/ente+? cons(mers en+(re+ sagg": bagg": stretc'e+ an+ b(nc'e+ clot'es. 7(t %'en t'e .(Pont scientist Goe ,'i/er perfecte+ a re/ol(tionar" ne% fiber F co+e name+ K: t'at all c'ange+. 13$6s - *n t'e 1)6-s: 1#6$4= fiber re/ol(tioni>e+ t'e %a" in %'ic' fabrics co(l+ be (se+. *n beac'%ear it replace+ t'ic3 an+ 'ea/" s%ims(its %it' lig't: <(ic3+r"ing garments li3e t'e bi3ini. *n 1)6 : t'e me+al-%inning Frenc' 8l"mpic s3i team became t'e first 'ig'-profile sports personalities to %ear s3i s(its %it' 1#6$4= fiber F a tren+ t'at soon sprea+ to ot'er sports. 7" 1)72 8l"mpic s%immers s%ore b" t'e slee3: lig't%eig't s(its %it' 1#6$4= fiber. 1316s - *n t'e 1)7-s: t'e bran+ fiber starte+ to ma3e an impact on t'e fas'ion scene: as +isco fe/er an+ interest in fitness ma+e leggings an+ fig(re-'(gging
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 12

leotar+s t'e loo3 of t'e moment. 1eggings an+ bo+"-'(gging Ceans %it' 1#6$4= fiber are among t'e +efining loo3s of t'e +eca+e. 1326s - 7" t'e mi+ 1) -s: o/er 'alf of all %omen9s 'osier" an+ (n+er%ear relie+ on 1#6$4= fiber for a close: comfortable fit. 1336s - .(ring t'e 1))-s: t'e 1#6$4= fiber bran+ position in t'e sports mar3et strengt'ene+ t'ro(g' t'e +e/elopment of 'i-tec' fibers s(c' as 1#6$4= Po%erU fabric in compression s'orts %'ic' 'elp re+(ce at'letes@ m(scle fatig(e. T'is +eca+e also sa% t'e rising pop(larit" of t'e fiber not C(st in %omen9s fas'ion b(t in men9s too. 2666s - T'e 1#6$4= fiber bran+ is contin(o(sl" e/ol/ing to create /al(e an+ inspire ne% pro+(ct experience for cons(mers. *n 2--4: T'e 1#6$4= fiber bran+ expan+s be"on+ apparel %it' licensing partner 6ot": *nc.: intro+(cing K$immel 1#6$4= 5earK: a s'oc3-resistant nail polis' %it' 1#6$4= fiber pro+(cts in li<(i+ form. 8t'er recent inno/ations incl(+ing Extra 1ife 1#6$4= fiber t'at +eli/ers t'e ne% fit promise for s%im%ear an+ s%eater: OF*T 1#6$4= fabric t'at sets t'e ne% stan+ar+s of m(lti+imensional fit an+ comfort in +enim: 1#6$4= F$EEFVTU fabric t'at reengineers s'irting b" impro/ing flexibilit" %'ile maintaining s'ape an+ 1#6$4= fres'FOU fiber for all +a" fres'ness. 1#6$4= fiber: OF*T 1#6$4= fabric: Extra 1ife 1#6$4= fiber: F$EEFV TU fabric an+ fres'FOU fiber are tra+emar3s of *HQ*,T4.

2.(. )a* +aterials of Elastomeric 'arn:

4 /ariet" of ra% materials are (se+ to pro+(ce stretc'able span+ex fibers. T'is incl(+es prepol"mers %'ic' pro+(ce t'e bac3bone of t'e fiber: stabili>ers %'ic'
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 13

protect t'e integrit" of t'e pol"mer: an+ colorants. T'e main gro(p of span+ex "arn is Pol" E(rot'rin Amain ra% materialB. T%o t"pes of prepol"mers are reacte+ to pro+(ce t'e span+ex fiber pol"mer bac3-bone. 8ne is a flexible macrogl"col %'ile t'e ot'er is a stiff +iisoc"anate. T'e macro-gl"col can be pol"ester: pol"et'er: pol"carbonate: pol"caprolactone or some combination of t'ese. T'ese are long c'ain pol"mers: %'ic' 'a/e '"+rox"l gro(ps A8!B on bot' en+s. T'e important feat(re of t'ese molec(les is t'at t'e" are long an+ flexible. T'is part of t'e span+ex fiber is responsible for its stretc'ing c'aracteristic. T'e ot'er prepol"mer (se+ to pro+(ce span+ex is a pol"meric +iisoc"anate. T'is is a s'orter c'ain pol"mer: %'ic' 'as an isoc"anate A-H68B gro(p on bot' en+s. T'e principal c'aracteristic of t'is molec(le is its rigi+it". *n t'e fiber: t'is molec(le pro/i+es strengt'.

&igure "' 5onomer of the Ela tomeric 0arn &ound /y Du(ont. &an" ra% materials are (se+ to ma3e t'e (ni<(e stretc'able span+ex fibers. T'e" incl(+e prepol"mers %'ic' pro+(ce t'e bac3bone of t'e fiber: stabili>ers %'ic' protect t'e integrit" of t'e pol"mer: an+ textile colorants to gi/e attracti/e s'a+es to t'e fibers an+ t'e span+ex fabrics. T%o 3in+s of prepol"mers are reacte+ to pro+(ce t'e span+ex fiber pol"mer bac3-bone- t'e flexible macrogl"col an+ t'e rigi+ +iisoc"anate. &acro-gl"col can be an"t'ing from among pol"ester: pol"et'er: pol"carbonate: pol"caprolactone or some combination of t'ese. T'ese are long an+ flexible c'ain pol"mers 'a/ing '"+rox"l gro(ps A-8!B on bot' en+s: responsible for t'e stretc'ing c'aracteristic of span+ex. T'e pol"meric +iisoc"anate is a s'orter an+ rigi+ c'ain pol"mer: 'a/ing an isoc"anate A-H68B gro(p on bot' en+s. T'is molec(le pro/i+es strengt' to t'e span+ex fibers. 6atal"st s(c' as +ia>obic"clo octane is (se+ to initiate reaction bet%een t'e t%o t"pes of prepol"mers. 8t'er lo% molec(lar %eig't amines are (se+ to control t'e molec(lar %eig't of t'e fibers. 4part from t'e basic prepol"mers: catal"sts etc. stabili>ers: s(c' as antioxi+ants: are a++e+ to protect t'e fibers from +amaging so(rces li3e 'eat: lig't: atmosp'eric contaminants: an+ c'lorine. Pltra/iolet APQB screeners s(c' as '"+rox"ben>otria>oles are a++e+ to protect it against lig't +egra+ation. 8t'er stabili>ers s(c' as for pre/enting +iscoloration ca(se+ b" atmosp'eric poll(tants ma" also be (se+. 4s span+ex is often (se+ for ma3ing s%im %ear: antimil+e% a++iti/es are also a++e+ to it. ,tabili>ers a++e+ to t'e span+ex fibers: are resistant to sol/ent
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 14

expos(re as t'is co(l+ 'a/e a +amaging effect on t'e fiber. .isperse+ an+ aci+ +"es are t"picall" (se+ for gi/ing color to span+ex fibers. !o%e/er: special +"eing met'o+s are a+opte+ if t'e span+ex fibers are inter%o/en %it' ot'er fibers s(c' as n"lon fiber or pol"ester fiber.

2.,. Ty$es of Elastomeric 'arn:

T'e t"pes of elastomeric "arn are classifie+ %it' t'e base of Pro+(cers of ,pan+ex an+ $elate+ tra+e name at gi/en belo%D )a/le 2' Different )ype of )rade 8ame of Spandex 0arn 9 a/le in 4ariou #ountrie .
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 1"

6ompetitor 4celon 6'emicals 2 Fiber 6orp. 4sa'i 6'emical *n+(str" 6o. 7ao+ing ,%an 6'emical Fiber 6o. 1t+. 7a"er 40 7a"er 6orp. E.*. +( Pont +e Hemo(rs 2 6o. Far Eastern Textile 1t+. Fillattice: *nc. Formosa 4sa'i ,pan+ex 6o. F(Ci ,pinning 6o.: 1t+. F(Cian 6'angle Pret'ane Fibre 6o. 1t+. !ais'an Pret'ane Elastic Fibre *n+(str" 6o.: 1t+. !(a Feng *n+(str" 6o. 1t+. !"os(ng 6orporation *srael ,pan+ex 6o.: 1t+. Giang,( 6'angs'( ,ai 1ens'i Fiber 6o. Giang,( Han !(ang'ai 6o. 1t+ Gilin 1iao"(an .e'eng Fibre 6o. 1t+. Kanebo 0os'en: 1t+. Kolon *n+(stries: *nc. 1ian"(ngang R'ongs'an Pret'ane Fiber 6o. 1t+. Hiss'inbo *n+(stries: *nc. $a+ici,pan+ex 6orp. ,ae'an *n+(stries ,'an+ong Ribo Pret'ane Elastic Fibre 6o.: 1t+. ,'aoxing Pol"ester ,'ei !eng ,'eiflex 6o. ,ib(r-Qol>'s3" Tae3%ang *n+. 6o.: 1t+. TeiCin 1t+. Tong !%a ,"nt'etic Fiber 6o.: 1t+. Tong3oo3 ,"nt'etic Fibres 6o.: 1t+. To"obo 6o. Pniti3a 1t+. #antai Pret'ane Elastic Fibre 6o. 1t+.

6o(ntr" Tai%an Gapan 6'ina 0erman" Pnite+ ,tates Pnite+ ,tates Tai%an *tal" Tai%an Gapan 6'ina 6'ina 6'ina Korea *srael 6'ina 6'ina 6'ina Gapan Korea 6'ina Gapan Pnite+ ,tates Korea 6'ina 6'ina Tai%an $(ssia Korea Gapan Tai%an Korea Gapan Gapan 6'ina

Tra+e Hame ,pan+ex $oica ,pan+ex .orlastan .orlastan 1"cra ,pan+ex 1inel ,pan+ex F(Cibo ,pan+ex ,oflas ,pan+ex ,pan+ex WianOi 6reora Toplon Filabell ,pan+ex ,pan+ex ,pan+ex 1(bell ,pan+ex 4os'en &obilon 0lospan 6lerspan ,pan+ex 5anli ,pan+ex ,'eiflex ,pan+ex 4celan $exe To%nsp(n Texlon Espa ,(ccess ,pan+ex

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 1$

R'eCiang Hin7ao ,"nt'etic Fiber &an(factor" R'ong #(an Enterprise 0ro(p Qi"ellatex an+ o/erall 7angla+es'

6'ina 6'ina 7angla+es'

,pan+ex R"lon 1"craS,pan+ex

2.-. The +anufacturing #rocess:

,pan+ex fibers are pro+(ce+ in fo(r +ifferent %a"s incl(+ing melt extr(sion: reaction spinning: sol(tion +r" spinning: an+ sol(tion %et spinning. Eac' of t'ese met'o+s in/ol/es t'e initial step of reacting monomers to pro+(ce a prepol"mer. T'en t'e prepol"mer is reacte+ f(rt'er: in /ario(s %a"s: an+ +ra%n o(t to pro+(ce a long fiber. ,ince sol(tion +r" spinning is (se+ to pro+(ce o/er )-; of t'e %orl+@s span+ex fibers: it is +escribe+.

Ba ic (rinciple of Spandex &i/er (roduction'

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 11

T'e pol"mer c'ain is a segmente+ bloc3 copol"mer containing long: ran+oml" coile+: li<(i+: soft segments t'at mo/e to a more linear: lo%er entrop": str(ct(re. T'e 'ar+ segments act as M/irt(al cross-lin3sN t'at tie all t'e pol"mer c'ains toget'er into an infinite net%or3. T'is net%or3 pre/ents t'e pol"mer c'ains from slipping past eac' ot'er an+ ta3ing on a permanent set or +ra%. 5'en t'e stretc'ing force is remo/e+: t'e linear: lo% entrop": soft segments mo/e bac3 to t'e preferre+ ran+oml" coile+: 'ig'er entrop" state: ca(sing t'e fiber to reco/er to its original s'ape an+ lengt'.

&igure $' (hotograph of Spandex &i/re (roduction 5ethod . T'is segmente+ bloc3 copol"mer is forme+ in a m(lti-step proprietar" process. *t is extr(+e+ into a fiber as a monofilament t'rea+ line or for most pro+(cts into a m(ltiplicit" of fine filaments t'at are coalesce+ s'ortl" after t'e" are forme+ into a single t'rea+ line.

(olymer !eaction '

1. T'e first step in t'e pro+(ction of span+ex is t'e pro+(ction of t'e prepol"mer. T'is is +one b" mixing a macrogl"col %it' a +iisoc"anate monomer. T'e compo(n+s are mixe+ in a reaction /essel an+ (n+er t'e rig't con+itions t'e" react to form a prepol"mer. ,ince t'e ratio of t'e component materials pro+(ces fibers %it' /ar"ing c'aracteristics: it is strictl" controlle+. 4 t"pical ratio of gl"col to +iisoc"anate ma" be 1D2.
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 12

2. *n +r" spinning fiber pro+(ction: t'e prepol"mer is f(rt'er reacte+ %it' an e<(al amo(nt of +iamine. T'is is 3no%n as a c'ain extension reaction. T'e res(lting sol(tion is +il(te+ %it' a sol/ent to pro+(ce t'e spinning sol(tion. T'e sol/ent 'elps ma3e t'e sol(tion t'inner an+ more easil" 'an+le+. *t can t'en be p(mpe+ into t'e fiber pro+(ction cell. (roducing the &i/er ' 3. T'e spinning sol(tion is p(mpe+ into a c"lin+rical spinning cell %'ere it is c(re+ an+ con/erte+ into fibers. *n t'is cell: t'e pol"mer sol(tion is force+ t'ro(g' a metal plate: calle+ a spinneret: %'ic' 'as small 'oles t'ro(g'o(t. T'is ca(ses t'e sol(tion to be aligne+ in stran+s of li<(i+ pol"mer. 4s t'e stran+s pass t'ro(g' t'e cell: t'e" are 'eate+ in t'e presence of a nitrogen an+ sol/ent gas. T'ese con+itions ca(se t'e li<(i+ pol"mer to c'emicall" react an+ form soli+ stran+s. 4. 4s t'e fibers exit t'e cell: a specific amo(nt of t'e soli+ stran+s are b(n+le+ toget'er to pro+(ce t'e +esire+ t'ic3ness. T'is is +one %it' a compresse+ air +e/ice t'at t%ists t'e fibers toget'er. *n realit": eac' fiber of span+ex is ma+e (p of man" smaller in+i/i+(al fibers t'at a+'ere to one anot'er +(e to t'e nat(ral stic3iness of t'eir s(rface. &inal (roce ing' 5. T'e fibers are t'en treate+ %it' a finis'ing agent. T'is ma" be magnesi(m stearate or anot'er pol"mer s(c' as pol" A+imet'"l-siloxaneB. T'ese finis'ing materials pre/ent t'e fibers from stic3ing toget'er an+ ai+ in textile man(fact(re. 4fter t'is treatment: t'e fibers are transferre+ t'ro(g' a series of rollers onto a spool. T'e %in+(p spee+ of t'e entire process can be an"%'ere from 3---5-- mi A4 2.7-4.5 3mB per min(te +epen+ing on t'e t'ic3ness of t'e fibers. 6. 5'en t'e spools are fille+ %it' fiber: t'e" are p(t into final pac3aging an+ s'ippe+ to textile man(fact(rers an+ ot'er c(stomers. !ere: t'e fibers ma" be %o/en %it' ot'er fibers s(c' as cotton or n"lon to pro+(ce t'e fabric t'at is (se+ in clot'ing man(fact(re. T'is fabric can also be +"e+ to pro+(ce a +esire+ color.

Ela tomeric &i/er (roduction (roce '

Elastomeric fibers are pro+(ce+ in fo(r +ifferent %a"s: incl(+ing melt extr(sion: reaction spinning: sol(tion +r" spinning: an+ sol(tion %et spinning. 4ll of t'ese met'o+s incl(+e t'e initial step of reacting monomers to pro+(ce a prepol"mer. 8nce t'e prepol"mer is forme+: it is reacte+ f(rt'er in /ario(s %a"s an+ +ra%n o(t to pro+(ce a long fiber. T'e sol(tion +r" spinning met'o+ is (se+ to pro+(ce o/er )-; of t'e %orl+@s 1"cra fibers.
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 13

5'en t'e t%o t"pes of prepol"mers are mixe+ toget'er: t'e" interact to form t'e span+ex fibers. *n t'is reaction: t'e '"+rox"l gro(ps A-8!B on t'e macrogl"cols react %it' t'e isoc"anates. Eac' molec(le gets a++e+ on to t'e en+ of anot'er molec(le: an+ a long c'ain pol"mer is forme+. T'is is 3no%n as a step-gro%t' or a++ition pol"meri>ation. To initiate t'is reaction: a catal"st s(c' as +ia>obic"clo octane m(st be (se+. 8t'er lo% molec(lar %eig't amines are a++e+ to control t'e molec(lar %eig't of t'e fibers. ,pan+ex fibers are /(lnerable to +amage from a /ariet" of so(rces incl(+ing 'eat: lig't atmosp'eric contaminants: an+ c'lorine. For t'is reason: stabili>ers are a++e+ to protect t'e fibers. 4ntioxi+ants are one t"pe of stabili>er. Qario(s antioxi+ants are a++e+ to t'e fibers: incl(+ing monomeric an+ pol"meric 'in+ere+ p'enols. To protect against lig't +egra+ation: (ltra/iolet APQB screeners s(c' as '"+rox"ben>otria>oles are a++e+. 6ompo(n+s %'ic' in'ibit fiber +iscoloration ca(se+ b" atmosp'eric poll(tants are anot'er t"pe of stabili>er a++e+. T'ese are t"picall" compo(n+s %it' tertiar" amine f(nctionalit": %'ic' can interact %it' t'e oxi+es of nitrogen in air poll(tion. ,ince span+ex is often (se+ for s%im%ear: antimil+e% a++iti/es m(st also be a++e+. 4ll of t'e stabili>ers t'at are a++e+ to t'e span+ex fibers are +esigne+ to be resistant to sol/ent expos(re since t'is co(l+ 'a/e a +amaging effect on t'e fiber. 5'en t'e" are first pro+(ce+: span+ex fibers are %'ite. T'erefore: colorants are a++e+ to impro/e t'eir aest'etic appearance. .isperse+ an+ aci+ +"es are t"picall" (se+. *f t'e span+ex fibers are inter%o/en %it' ot'er fibers s(c' as n"lon or pol"ester: special +"ing met'o+s are re<(ire+.

:et Spinning (roce '

5et spinning: is li3e +r" spinning: emplo"s a fairl" concentrare+ pol"mer sol(tion. T'e increase in pol"mer sol(tion /iscocit" is controlle+ b" spinning t'e sol(tion at an ele/ate+ temperat(re. T'e process +etails for %et spinning are s'o%n in fig(re. 5et spinning also con/erts a /iscose pol"mer sol(tion into fine Cets t'ro('g a spinnert. T'ese Cets: 'o%o/er: are le+ into a coag(lation bat' containing a large /ol(me of a non-sol/ent %'ic' can precipitate t'e pol"mer from its sol(tion. 5'en contin(os Cets of t'e pol"mer sol(tion come in contact %it' a non-sol/ent: t'e" precipitate in t'e form of fine filaments.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 26

&igure 1' Schematic Diagram of :et-Spinning (roce . T'e filaments forme+ are gat'ere+ on a spin+le after (n+ergoing %as'ing: +r"ing: etc. 8ne important point to be borne in min+ %'ile car"ing o(t %et spinning is t'at sometimes +roplets are forme+ instea+ of contin(os filaments. T'is 'appens as a res(lt of t'e brea3ing of contin(it" in t'e Cet as it emerges from t'e spinnet 'ole an+ is ca(se+ b" t'e forces of interfacial tension acting on t'e ne%l" forme+ Cet. T'is co(l+ be a/oi+e+ b" incerasing t'e /iscosit" of t'e pol"mer sol(tion. 6oag(lation: an essential step in %et spinning: is a rat'er slo% process. !ence: compare+ to t'e ot'er t%o processes: t'e rate of %et spinning ma" be as lo% as 5- mSmin. t'e %et spinning process is empol"e+ commerciall" to ma3e fibes from cell(lose: /iscose ra"on: pol"acr"lonitrile.

Dry Spinning (roce '

Step 1' T'e first step is to pro+(ce t'e prepol"mer. T'is is +one b" mixing a macrogl"col %it' a +iisoc"anate monomer. T'e t%o compo(n+s are mixe+ toget'er in a reaction /essel to pro+(ce a prepol"mer. 4 t"pical ratio of gl"col to +iisoc"anate is 1D2.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 21

&igure 2' Schametic Diagram of Dry Spinning (roce . Step 2' T'e prepol"mer is f(rt'er reacte+ %it' an e<(al amo(nt of +iamine. T'is reaction is 3no%n as c'ain extension reaction. T'e res(lting sol(tion is +il(te+ %it' a sol/ent to pro+(ce t'e spinning sol(tion. T'e sol/ent 'elps ma3e t'e sol(tion t'inner an+ more easil" 'an+le+: an+ t'en it can be p(mpe+ into t'e fiber pro+(ction cell. Step 3' T'e spinning sol(tion is p(mpe+ into a c"lin+rical spinning cell %'ere it is c(re+ an+ con/erte+ into fibers. *n t'is cell: t'e pol"mer sol(tion is force+
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 22

t'ro(g' a metal plate calle+ a spinneret. T'is ca(ses t'e sol(tion to be aligne+ in stran+s of li<(i+ pol"mer. 4s t'e stran+s pass t'ro(g' t'e cell: t'e" are 'eate+ in t'e presence of a nitrogen an+ sol/ent gas. T'is process ca(ses t'e li<(i+ pol"mer to react c'emicall" an+ form soli+ stran+s. Step 4' 4s t'e fibers exit t'e cell: an amo(nt of soli+ stran+s are b(n+le+ toget'er to pro+(ce t'e +esire+ t'ic3ness. Eac' fiber of span+ex is ma+e (p of man" smaller in+i/i+(al fibers t'at a+'ere to one anot'er +(e to t'e nat(ral stic3iness of t'eir s(rface.

2... Identification of S$andex 'arn:

T'ere are t%o t"pes of met'o+s t'at are (se+ for i+entif"ing +ifferent fibers t'e nontec'nical tests an+ t'e tec'nical tests. T'e nontec'nical tests incl(+e t'e feeling test an+ t'e b(rn test. T'e tec'nical tests incl(+e microscope test an+ c'emical test. T'e tec'nical tests for fiber i+entification are carrie+ o(t in
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 23

laboratories an+ re<(ire tec'nical 3no%le+ge an+ s3ills. 4s s(c': t'e" are m(c' more reliable met'o+s for testing en+ pro+(ct as compare+ to t'e non tec'nical tests.

Burn )e t'
Firml" grip t'e m"ster" s%atc' %it' t'e t%ee>ers an+ gentl" ease one e+ge into t'e open flame. 4/oi+ p(tting metal t%ee>ers into t'e flame: as t'e 'eate+ metal can ca(se b(rns. &o/e t'e s%atc' into t'e flame an+ <(ic3l" o(t of it. *f t'e fabric is flaming: blo% it o(t. 4s "o( test: ma3e note of t'e follo%ing for i+entificationD 5'ile in t'e flame: +oes t'e fabric melt rea+il": smol+er: or exting(is' itselfX 5'en remo/e+ from t'e flame: %'at 'appens to t'e fabricX .oes t'e fabric form a melte+ bea+: or +oes it lea/e as'X .oes t'e b(rnt fabric pro+(ce a +istinct o+or or smo3e colorX T'e ans%ers to t'ese <(estions %ill 'elp %it' t'e i+entification. *n ,pan+ex "arn for b(rning test follo%ing c'aracteristics are fo(n+. )a/le 3' Identification of Spandex 0arn 9 ing Burn )e t and %l o )heir (ropertie . 7(rn 6'aracter ,mo3eS,mell $esi+(e &elts an+ 7(rn 7(rning r(bber 7lac3 as'

5icro cope )e t'

&icroscopes 'a/ing magnification of at least 1-- po%ers can be s(ccessf(ll" emplo"e+ for testing an+ i+entif"ing t'e fiber contents of a fabric. &icroscope test is /er" effecti/e for testing t'e nat(ral fabrics. .iffic(lties can be face+ %'ile testing s"nt'etic fabrics as man" of t'em 'a/e similar appearance. !o%e/er: one m(st 3no% %'at t'e fibers loo3 li3e (n+er a microscope as man" finis'ing processes li3e merceri>ing an+ +el(stering: c'ange t'e appearance of fibers (n+er microscope.
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 24

4part from it: +ar3 colore+ fabrics also cannot be teste+ %it' microscope as lig't cannot pass t'ro(g' +ar3 s(bstances. For s(c' fabrics: eit'er t'e textile +"es 'a/e to be remo/e+ b" stripping: bleac'ing etc. or t'e" 'a/e to be c'emicall" teste+. ,pan+ex fiber 'a/e t'e o(tstan+ing c'aracteristic of appearing li3e gro(ps of fibers f(se+ toget'er. !o%e/er: +ifferent /ariants of span+ex s'o% +ifferent c'aracteristics too. T'e 1"cra fiber loo3s li3e f(se+ m(ltifilament cross sectionall". *n+i/i+(al fibers are +otte+ an+ in s'ape li3e t'at of +og-bone. *f /ie%e+ longit(+inall": t'e" appear straig't.

2.1/. )ecent 0e1elo$ments of Elastomeric 'arn:

T'e <(alit" of span+ex fibers 'as contin(all" impro/e+ since t'e" %ere first +e/elope+. Qario(s areas of researc' %ill 'elp contin(e t'eir impro/ement. For example: scientists 'a/e fo(n+ t'at b" c'anging t'e starting prepol"mers t'e" can +e/elop fibers %'ic' 'a/e e/en better stretc'ing c'aracteristics. 8t'er c'aracteristics can be impro/e+ b" (sing +ifferent prepol"mer ratios: better catal"sts: an+ /ario(s fillers. *n a++ition to span+ex fiber impro/ements: it is li3el" t'at a+/ance+ fabrics
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 2"

%ill be pro+(ce+ %'ic' incorporate span+ex fibers %it' con/entional fibers. 6(rrentl": n"lonSspan+ex fiber blen+s are a/ailable. Finall": impro/ements in man(fact(ring %ill also be +isco/ere+. T'ese %ill foc(s on pro+(cing fibers faster an+ more efficientl". *HQ*,T4@s commitment to inno/ation is e/i+ence+ in its prolific la(nc' of ne% pro+(cts. 1#6$4= 7lac3 fiber: la(nc'e+ in ,eptember 2--4: p(ts an en+ to t'e %as'e+-o(t +a"s of fa+e+ gre"s. ,%im%ear man(fact(rers 'a/e been <(ic3 to incorporate Extra 1ife 1#6$4= fiber into t'eir s%im%ear pro+(cts: appreciati/e of t'e fact t'at it ma3es materials incre+ibl" c'lorine resistant an+ lasting-fit. T'e Extra 1ife 1#6$4= fiber bran+ is no% e/en expan+ing to s%eater for lo% po%er "arn patente+ tec'nolog" t'at lets s%eaters feel soft an+ loo3 ne% for a longer perio+ of time. *n 2--7: *HQ*,T4 la(nc'e+ ne% inno/ations t'at +eli/er pampering an+ fres'ness benefits in garmentsD t'e 1#6$4= fres'FOU fiber. T'e la(nc' of 1#6$4= F$EEFVTU fabric represents anot'er significant +e/elopment t'at re-engineers s'irting9s to satisf" increasing cons(mer +eman+ for sta"ing cool an+ comfortable fit.

2.11. Test of Elastomeric 'arns and fa!ric:

T'ere are /ario(s t"pes of test occ(r in elastomeric goo+s: 'ere some sort of brief i+ea +isc(ss belo%D

0arn )e t'
AiB #ount' T'e co(nt of elastomeric "arn are test general most (sable co(nt meas(ring met'o+.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 2$

AiiB

Single yarn trength te t' Ps(all" Pni/ersal strengt' tester is (se for t'e elastomeric "arn strengt' test.

&a/ric )e t'
AiB
AiiB

,rey &a/ric' 0enerall" t'ere are no test is fo(n+ in t'e gre" fabric. &ini hed &a/ric' 0enerall" t'ere are 3 to 1-; 1"cra "arn are (se+ in t'e elastomric fabric. 8ne of t'e most important special tests of 1"cra fabric is Extension an+ &o+(le relate+ to stretc' an+ reco/er". T'ere are /ario(s t"pes of test are fo(n+ in t'e finis'e+ elastomericS1"cra fabric Aafter +"eing: %as'ing an+ ot'er processingB: an brief i+ea as gi/en belo%D

)a/le 4' )e t of 4ariou )ype of Spandex 5aterial (ropertie and )heir 9 ing In trument.

Testing Title
,trengt' Elongation 0,& ,piralit" ,'rin3age

*nstr(mentS&et'o+s
!"+ra(lic 7(rsting Tester Pni/ersal ,trengt' Tester 0,& c(tter an+ +igital 7alance 0eo-metric 6alc(lation T(mble .r" met'o+

;uality #ontrol of (roduct'

To ens(re t'e <(alit" of t'e span+ex fibers: man(fact(rers monitor t'e pro+(ct +(ring eac' p'ase of pro+(ction. *nspections begin %it' t'e e/al(ation of t'e incoming ra% materials. Qario(s c'emical an+ p'"sical c'aracteristics are teste+. For example: t'e p!: specific gra/it": an+ /iscosit" of t'e +iisoc"anate ma" be c'ec3e+. 4++itionall": appearance: color: an+ o+or can also be e/al(ate+. 8nl" b" 'a/ing strict <(alit" control c'ec3s on t'e starting materials can t'e man(fact(rer be s(re t'at t'e" %ill pro+(ce a consistent en+ pro+(ct. 4fter pro+(ction: t'e span+ex fibers are also teste+. T'ese tests ma" incl(+e t'ose t'at e/al(ate fiber elasticit": resilience an+ absorbenc".

,eneral Ela tomeric &i/er #are )ip '

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 21

 !an+ or mac'ine %as'es in l(3e%arm %ater. .o not (se c'lorine bleac' on an" fabric containing span+ex. Pse ox"gen or so+i(m per borate t"pe bleac'. $ise t'oro(g'l". .rip +r". *f mac'ine +rie+: (se lo% temperat(re. *roning: if re<(ire+: s'o(l+ be +one rapi+l". .o not lea/e t'e iron too long in one position. Pse lo% temperat(res setting. AFor specific instr(ctions: refer to garment@s se%n-in care labelB.

2.12. #roduct of Elastomeric 'arn:

1#6$4= fiber is a man-ma+e elastane fiber. He/er (se+ alone: b(t al%a"s blen+e+ %it' ot'er fibers: it 'as (ni<(e stretc' an+ reco/er" properties. 1#6$4= fiber a++s comfort: fit: s'ape retention: +(rabilit" an+ free+om of mo/ement. T'is is ac'ie/e+ t'an3s to t'e (ni<(e properties of t'e fiber: %'ic' can be stretc'e+ (p to se/en times its initial lengt' before springing bac3 to t'e original position once tension is release+. 4n" nat(ral or man-ma+e fibers can be mixe+ %it' 1#6$4= fiber. Qer" small amo(nts of 1#6$4= fiber can transform t'e performance of a fabric F t'e amo(nt of 1#6$4= fiber in a material can be as little as 2;. T'ere are /ario(s %a"s of integrating 1#6$4= fiber %it' ot'er fibers to pro/i+e fabrics for all nee+s.
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 22

*HQ*,T4 carries o(t contin(al researc' an+ +e/elopment in fiber tec'nolog". T'is is s(pporte+ b" an (n+erstan+ing of t'e mar3et an+ e/er c'anging fas'ion tren+s co(ple+ %it' an a%areness of +e/eloping cons(mers9 %ants an+ nee+s.

Some 5a<or Spandex &i/er 9 e '

,pan+ex Fiber is mainl" (se+ to ma3e s(c' garments t'at re<(ire great comfort an+ fit. 4s s(c': t'e" fin+ applications in man(fact(ring of 'osier": s%ims(its: aerobic or exercise %ear: s3i pants: golf Cac3ets: +isposable +iaper: %aist ban+s: bra straps an+ bra si+e panels etc. T'e" are e/en great for ma3ing s'ape+ garments li3e bra c(ps. ,pan+ex fabrics are also (se+ to ma3e compression garments: s(c' as s(rgical 'ose: s(pport 'ose: bic"cle pants: fo(n+ation garments etc.

)a/le "' (roduct of Spandex ,ood and )heir 9 e. Pse 4t'letic: aerobic: an+ exercise apparel: 5ets(its: ,%ims(itsSbat'ing s(its: 4pparel an+ clot'ing articles %'ere 6ompetiti/e s%im%ear: Hetball bo+"s(its: stretc' is +esire+: generall" for 7rassiere straps an+ bra si+e panels: ,3i comfort an+ fit pants: .isco Ceans: ,lac3s: !osier": 1eggings: ,oc3s: .iapers: ,3inn" Ceans: 7elts: Pn+er%ear: .ance belts %orn b" male ballet +ancers an+ ot'ers. ,(rgical 'ose: ,(pport 'ose: 6"cling s'orts: 5restling singlet: $o%ing (nis(it: Fo(n+ation 6ompression garments garments: &otion capt(re s(its. ,'ape+ garments 7ra c(ps. Pro+(ct

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 23

!ome f(rnis'ings

&icrobea+ pillo%s.

*n clot'ing it (s(all" appears as a small percentage of total material. *n Hort' 4merica it is rare in men@s c'eaper clot'ing: b(t pre/alent in %omen@s. *t is (se+ more often in %omen@s as t'eir clot'es are (s(all" more form-fitting. *t is (s(all" mixe+ %it' a greater percentage of one ot'er textile s(c' as cotton: pol"ester: or ot'ers. T'is 3eeps t'e reflection of lig't re+(ce+ to being 'ar+l" noticeable.

2.13. 2ycra 3allery:

4ll samples are collecte+ from Q*#E114TEO an+ 4nlima Textile 1t+ AKnitting 2 ."ing sectionBD

Two Thread Fleece Lycra Feeder Stripe

Single Jersey Lycra

Interlock Lycra

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 36

Rib Single Stripe Lycra

Lycra Lacosta

Single Jersey Lycra Stripe

Single Jersey Engineering Stripe Lycra

Mercerized Feeder Stripe Lycra

Single Jersey Lycra Stripe

3. Ex$erimental:
.(ring t'e t'esis t'e follo%ing mentions experiment can be +one. Knitting of t'e fabric %it' 1"cra. &eas(rement of 5ales per *nc'. &eas(rement of 6o(rse per *nc'. &eas(rement of ,titc' lengt'. &eas(rement of 0,&. &eas(rement of ,'rin3age. &eas(rement of Extensibilit". 6ompare all of t'e properties of fabric an+ t'eir effect. .isc(ssion of res(lts.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 31

3.1. Knitting +achine and Its S$ecification:

5e 'a/e +one t'is experiment on t'e 4nlima Textile 1t+. T'e compan"@s Knitting pro+(ction facilit" comprises of fort" bran+ ne% &a"er 2 6ie of 0erman" 'ig' spee+ comp(teri>e+ circ(lar 3nitting mac'ines as %ell as ten semi-Cac<(ar+ ,toll A0erman"B flat 3nitting mac'ines %it' a pro+(ction capacit" of 15 tons per +a". 0enerall" t'ere are eig't t"pes of mac'ineries see in t'eir Knitting section li3e Pl(s'SPoller &ac'ine: ,ingle Gerse" &ac'ine: *nterloc3 &ac'ine. $ib &ac'ine: Fleece &ac'ine: 4(to-striper &ac'ine: 4(to-striper Gac<(ar+ &ac'ine an+ Flat Knitting &ac'ine. 7(t o(r experimental mac'ine is a ,ingle Gerse" mac'ine.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 32

&igure 3' (hotograph of Experimental +nitting 5achine.

Specification'
T'e specification of t'e experimental 3nitting mac'ine is as follo%sD &o+el D &a"er 2 6ie. 8rigin D 0erman". .ia D 3-. 0a(ge D 24. $P& D 25. Fee+er D )6. H(mber of nee+les D 2256.

3.2. Knitting of the a!ric:

4 3nitte+ fabric ma" be ma+e %it' a single "arn %'ic' is forme+ into interloc3ing loops %it' t'e 'elp of 'oo3e+ nee+les. 4ccor+ing to t'e p(rpose of t'e fabric: t'e loops ma" be loosel" or closel" constr(cte+. 6roc'ete+ fabric is t'e simplest example of 3nitting %'ere a c'ain of loops is constr(cte+ from a single t'rea+ %it' t'e 'elp of a 'oo3. 4s t'e loops are interloc3e+ in a 3nitte+ fabric: it can stretc' in an" +irection e/en %'en a lo%-gra+e "arn 'a/ing little elasticit" is (se+. T'e constr(ction of 3nitte+ fabric is assesse+ b" t'e n(mber of stitc'es or loops per s<(are inc'. 5'en t'e interloc3ing loops r(n lengt'%ise: eac' ro% is calle+ a %ale t'at correspon+s to t'e +irection of %arp in %o/en fabrics. 5'en t'e loops
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 33

r(n across t'e fabric: eac' ro% is calle+ a co(rse t'at correspon+s to t'e filling or %eft in %o/en fabrics. 4 3nitte+ fabric 'a/ing 5- loops or stitc'es in one inc' of %i+t' an+ 6- loops in one inc' of lengt' %ill be sai+ to 'a/e 5- 5ales an+ 6co(rses. Fabric 7ac3 si+e Fabric Face si+e

1ooping .iagram

6'ain Hotation

Hee+le 4rrangement

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 34

6am 4rrangement &igure 16' Ba ic (icture of Simple Single =er ey +nit Structure.

Face ,i+e

7ac3 ,i+e

&igure 11' Sample of Experimental +nitted &a/ric.

8(r experimental fabric is ,ingle Gerse" fabric accor+ing to anal"sis of 3nitte+ str(ct(re. 4ccor+ing to Textile Terms an+ .efinition T'e Textile *nstit(te ,ingle Gerse" +efine+ as: M4 generic name applie+ to 3nitte+ fabrics ma+e on one set of nee+le. T'e c'aracteristics are /arie+ to ac'ie/e t'e +esire+ en+-(se or patterne+ effectN. T'e ,ingle Gerse" fabric generall" pro+(ce+ from one sets of nee+les. T'e face si+e an+ bac3 si+e of t'e fabric loo3 similar an+ all are face or all are bac3 loops. T'e ,ingle Gerse" 'as greater c(rling ten+enc" an+ (nbalance+. *ts generall" t'ic3ness an+ %eig't is 'alf of .o(ble Gerse" A$ibB. To pro+(cing ,ingle Gerse" fabric generall" 1atc' nee+les are (se+. T'e 'oo3e+ metal nee+le is t'e principal 3nitting element of t'e 3nitting mac'ine. T'e s'ape of nee+le 'oo3 an+ latc' an+ t'e stro3e of t'e nee+le pla" an important bearing on t'e loo3 an+ <(alit" of 3nitte+ fabrics. T'e mo/ement lengt' of t'e nee+les i.e. t'e stro3e of t'e nee+les +epen+s on t'e lengt' of t'e latc'es. T'e 1atc' Hee+le 4cti/ation Forming ,ingle Gerse" so%ing as belo%D

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 3"

&igure 12' (hotograph of .atch 8eedle %cti*ation &orming Single =er ey. T'e ,in3er is t'e secon+ primar" 3nitting element. *t is a t'in metal plate %it' an in+i/i+(al or a collecti/e action operating approximatel" at rig't angles from t'e 'oo3 si+e of t'e nee+le be+: bet%een a+Cacent nee+les. *t ma" perform one or more of t'e follo%ing f(nctions: +epen+ent (pon t'e mac'ines 3nitting action an+ conse<(ent s'ape an+ mo/ement i.e. loop formation: 'ol+ing +o%n: 3noc3ing o/er. T'e main p(rpose of a sin3er is to sin3 or 3in3 t'e ne%l" lai+ "arn into a loop as its for%ar+ e+ge or catc' a+/ances bet%een t'e t%o a+Cacent nee+les.

&igure 13' (hotograph of .atch 8eedle and :e/ >olding Sinker %rrangement.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 3$

Knitting cam controls t'e motion of t'e nee+les t'ro(g'o(t t'e 3nitting c"cle as %ell as t'e pro+(ction rate of t'e mac'ine. T'e press(re to increase t'e rate of pro+(ction of goo+ <(alit" fabric 'as initiate+ attempts of c'ange t'e +esign of t'e cam. T'e cam arrangement for ,ingle Gerse" fabric is s'o%ing as belo%D

&igure 14' (hotograph of #am Dynamic of Single =er ey +nitted &a/ric .

(articular of the &a/ric '

Knit composition A"arnBD aB Hormal 3nit 3- He. bB 1"cra 2- .enier. Knit str(ct(reD aB Plain ,ingle Gerse". Percentage of 1"craD 4 to 4.5;. 1"cra fee+ingD aB 15- for 1-.24 cm per 1-- nee+les. bB 17- for 11.6- cm per 1-- nee+les. cB 1)- for 12.)6 cm per 1-- nee+les. Fabric pro+(cesD aB T(b(lar form. 1"cra Fee+erD
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 31

aB F(ll Fee+er.

3.3. Ex$erimental )esults and 4nalysis:

8(r experimental t'esis is MEffect of inp(t tension of elastomeric "arns A1"craB on 3nitte+ fabric propertiesN. .(e to anal"sis abo(t t'is t'esis %e can %or3 on /ario(s t"pes of experiment. 4 brief i+ea of experimental t'esis an+ t'eir /ario(s t"pes of effect can be +isc(ss as belo%D )a/le $' 5ea urement of :ale per Inch? #our e per Inch? Stitch .ength and ,S5 -ith Different &eeding )en ion of .ycra. Fabric Properties 5ale per *nc' 6oarse per *nc' 1"6 3) 7 1"cra Fee+ 116 37 75

136 35 66

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 32

,titc' 1engt' AmmB 0,&

2.)3 237.47

3.-1 23-.3

3.-7 225.5)

)a/le 1' 5ea urement of :ale per Inch? #our e per Inch? Stitch .ength and ,S5 -ith Different &eeding )en ion of .ycra in %fter :a hing. Fabric Properties 5ale per *nc' 6oarse per *nc' ,titc' 1engt' AmmB 0,& 1"6 41 71 2.)7 244.4 1"cra Fee+ 116 467 2.) 23 .3-

136 3) 61 2.)) 232.12

3.3.1. 5ales $er Inch:

4 col(mn of loops along t'e lengt' of a fabric is calle+ 5ales. T'e n(mber of /isible loops per (nit lengt' meas(re+ along a co(rse. T'e tra+itional (nit 'as been 5ales per inc' b(t t'e /al(e is no% expresse+ as 5ales per cm.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 33

5ales

&igure 1"' (hotograph )hat Sho-ing :ale per Inch.

5ea urement of :ale per Inch'

5e calc(late+ t'e n(mber of 5ales in one inc' %it' t'e 'elp of co(nting glass an+ nee+le. 4t first %e selecte+ t'e one s<(are fabric an+ b" t'e 'elp of co(nting glass %e calc(late+ t'e n(mber of 5ales per inc'. T'e 5ales per *nc' %as teste+ in fi/e places of eac' fabric sample an+ at eac' place t%o rea+ings %ere ta3en before an+ after %as'. T'e teste+ res(lts are s'o%n in tables Table 6 2 7. Teste+ res(lts are also presente+ grap'icall" an+ s'o%n in Fig(re 1 %'ere co(rseSinc' %as plotte+ against inp(t tension Al"cra fee+B AmmB. From to t'e mentione+ +ata c'arts %ere pro+(ce+ in %'ic' O-axis in+icates t'e inp(t tension. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'ree +ifferent inp(t tensions %ere generate+ from t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ e.g. 1)-: 17- 215-. T'(s in case 1)- t'e l"cra fee+ %as 'ig'est as a res(lt tension %ill be lo%est similarl" for 15- t'e l"cra fee+ %as lo%est as a res(lt inp(t tension %ill be 'ig'est. T'ese t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ %ere plotte+ against 5ales per inc' in+icate in #- axis an+ s'o%n in fig(res 1). *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'o(g' inp(t tension %ere (se+ as 1)-: 17- 2 15- b(t in t'e program con/erte+ it to 1: 2 2 3. T'erefore 1 in+icates lo%est tension an+ 3 in+icate 'ig'est inp(t tension.

3.3.2. 6ourses $er Inch:

4 ro% of loops across t'e %i+t' of a flat fabric or aro(n+ t'e circ(mference of a circ(lar fabric. *n %eft 3nitting t'e co(rse ma" b" one or more tra/erses of a fee+er. ,ome fabrics 3nitte+ on t%o nee+le be+s 'a/e a +ifferent n(mber of co(rses on one si+e of t'e fabric from t'e ot'er. T'e n(mber of /isible loops per (nit lengt'
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 46

meas(re+ along a %ale. T'e tra+itional (nit 'as been co(rses per inc' b(t t'e /al(e is no% expresse+ as co(rses per cm.

6o(rse &igure 1$' (hotograph )hat Sho-ing #our e per Inch.

5ea urement of #our e per Inch'

5e calc(late+ t'e n(mber of co(rses in one inc' %it' t'e 'elp of co(nting glass an+ nee+le. 4t first %e selecte+ t'e one s<(are fabric an+ b" t'e 'elp of co(nting glass %e calc(late+ t'e no. of co(rses per inc'. T'e 6o(rse per *nc' %as teste+ in fi/e places of eac' fabric sample an+ at eac' place t%o rea+ings %ere ta3en before an+ after %as'. T'e teste+ res(lts are s'o%n in tables Table 6 2 7. Teste+ res(lts are also presente+ grap'icall" an+ s'o%n in Fig(re 2- %'ere co(rseSinc' %as plotte+ against inp(t tension Al"cra fee+B AmmB. From to t'e mentione+ +ata c'arts %ere pro+(ce+ in %'ic' O-axis in+icates t'e inp(t tension. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'ree +ifferent inp(t tensions %ere generate+ from t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ e.g. 1)-: 17- 215-. T'(s in case 1)- t'e l"cra fee+ %as 'ig'est as a res(lt tension %ill be lo%est similarl" for 15- t'e l"cra fee+ %as lo%est as a res(lt inp(t tension %ill be 'ig'est. T'ese t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ %ere plotte+ against 6o(rse per inc' in+icates in #-axis an+ s'o%n in fig(res 2-. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'o(g' inp(t tension %ere (se+ as 1)-: 17- 2 15- b(t in t'e program con/erte+ it to 1: 2 2 3. T'erefore 1 in+icates lo%est tension an+ 3 in+icate 'ig'est inp(t tension.

3.3.3. Stitch .ength'

4n intermes'e+ loop is calle+ stitc'. T'e lengt' of "arn in a 3nitte+ loop is 3no%n as stitc' lengt'. *n follo%ing fig(re color portion refers to t'e stitc' lengt' of t'e 3nitte+ loop.
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 41

&igure 11' (hotograph )hat Sho-ing Stitch .ength.

5ea urement of Stitch .ength'

,titc' lengt' is t'eoreticall" is a single lengt' of "arn %'ic' incl(+e one nee+le loop an+ 'alf t'e lengt' of #arn A'alf of a sin3er loopB bet%een t'at nee+le loop an+ t'e a+Cacent nee+le loops on eit'er si+e of it. 1oop exists in co(rse in co(rse lengt' an+ it is t'at %'ic' infl(ence fabric +imension an+ ot'er properties incl(+ing %eig't. *n or+er to +etermine t'e stitc' lengt': %e co(nt 1-- n(mber 5ales or stitc' an+ co(nt its lengt' b" 'anging t'e "arn on t'e stitc' lengt' co(nters. T'e rea+ing is fo(n+ in mm (nit. T'e ,titc' lengt' %as teste+ in fi/e places of eac' fabric sample an+ at eac' place t%o rea+ings %ere ta3en before an+ after %as'. T'e teste+ res(lts are s'o%n in tables Table 6 2 7. Teste+ res(lts are also presente+ grap'icall" an+ s'o%n in Fig(re 21 %'ere stitc' lengt' %as plotte+ against inp(t tension Al"cra fee+B AmmB. From to t'e mentione+ +ata c'arts %ere pro+(ce+ in %'ic' O-axis in+icates t'e inp(t tension. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'ree +ifferent inp(t tensions %ere generate+ from t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ e.g. 1)-: 17- 215-. T'(s in case 1)- t'e l"cra fee+ %as 'ig'est as a res(lt tension %ill be lo%est similarl" for 15- t'e l"cra fee+ %as lo%est as a res(lt inp(t tension %ill be 'ig'est. T'ese t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ %ere plotte+ against stitc' lengt' in+icates in #-axis an+ s'o%n in fig(res 21. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'o(g' inp(t tension %ere (se+ as 1)-: 17- 2 15- b(t in t'e program con/erte+ it to 1: 2 2 3. T'erefore 1 in+icates lo%est tension an+ 3 in+icate 'ig'est inp(t tension.

3.3.". 3S+:
T'e stan+ar+ meas(rement for %eig't an+ <(alit" of fabrics is grams per s<(are meter: (s(all" abbre/iate+ as 0,&. T'is is t'e accepte+ stan+ar+ in t'e Pnite+ ,tates as %ell as in foreign co(ntries.
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 42

&igure 12' (hotograph of Sample #utter -ith ,S5 Balance.

5ea urement of ,S5'

T'e 0re" 0,& A0rams per s<(are meterB is a /er" important parameter for specifie+ a certain <(alit" of 3nitte+ fabric. T'e pro+(ction of 3nitte+ fabric is calc(late+ in %eig't. T'e pro+(ction cost an+ selling an+ p(rc'asing representing a certain <(alit" of 3nitte+ fabric. .(ring experiment t'e (sing 0,& c(tter +iameter is 14 cm. T'e 0,& %as teste+ in fi/e places of eac' fabric sample an+ at eac' place t%o rea+ings %ere ta3en before an+ after %as'. T'e teste+ res(lts are s'o%n in tables Table 6 2 7. Teste+ res(lts are also presente+ grap'icall" an+ s'o%n in Fig(re 22 %'ere gsm %as plotte+ against inp(t tension Al"cra fee+B AmmB. From to t'e mentione+ +ata c'arts %ere pro+(ce+ in %'ic' O-axis in+icates t'e inp(t tension. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'ree +ifferent inp(t tensions %ere generate+ from t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ e.g. 1)-: 17- 215-. T'(s in case 1)- t'e l"cra fee+ %as 'ig'est as a res(lt tension %ill be lo%est similarl" for 15- t'e l"cra fee+ %as lo%est as a res(lt inp(t tension %ill be 'ig'est. T'ese t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ %ere plotte+ against gsm in+icate in #-axis an+ s'o%n in Fig(re 22. 4ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re it %as follo%e+ t'at %'en 1"cra Fee+ Tension increases t'en t'e 0,& are +ecreases. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'o(g' inp(t tension %ere (se+ as 1)-: 17- 2 15- b(t in t'e program con/erte+ it to 1: 2 2 3. T'erefore 1 in+icates lo%est tension an+ 3 in+icate 'ig'est inp(t tension.

3.3.%. Shrinkage:
4 +imensional c'ange res(lting in a +ecrease in t'e lengt' or %i+t' of a specimen s(bCecte+ to specifie+ con+itions is 3no%n s'rin3age. $e+(ction in lengt' an+ %i+t' of fabric in+(ce+ b" con+itioning: %etting: steaming: c'emical treatment: %et processing as in la(n+ering: in c'emical practice an+ in literat(re t'e follo%ing terms 'a/e been (se+ to +escribe t'e s'rin3age %'ic' occ(rs in testing proce+(reD
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 43

$elaxation s'rin3age Felting s'rin3age 6ompressi/e s'rin3age $esi+(al s'rin3age

,'rin3age is mainl" +(e to "arn s%elling an+ t'e res(lting crimp increase +(ring %as'ing in case of cotton fabrics. #arn s%elling percentage is more t'an pol"ester cotton blen+ing "arn. !elaxation hrinkageD .(ring man(fact(res fabrics an+ t'eir component "arns are s(bCecte+ to tension (n+er /ar"ing con+itions of temperat(re an+ moist(re content: after man(fact(ring %'en t'e fabric is ta3en from t'e mac'ine an+ 3eep on floor or store room: t'en t'e fabric ten+s to s'rin3: t'is t"pe s'rin3age is calle+ relaxation s'rin3age. &elting hrinkageD *n case of %ool fibers +imensional c'anges can be magnifie+ b" felting s'rin3age. 5'en (ntreate+ %ool fibers are s(bCecte+ to mec'anical action in t'e presence of moist(re #ompre i*e hrinkageD 4 process in %'ic' fabric is ca(se+ to s'rin3 in lengt' b" compression. T'e process often referre+ to as controlle+ compressi/e s'rin3age !e idual hrinkage' 4fter %as'ing t'e fabric is s'r(n3. T'is t"pe of s'rin3age is calle+ resi+(al s'rin3age. $esi+(al s'rin3age is t'e main factor of garments in+(str".

5ea urement of Shrinkage'

(reparation of pecimen' T'e fabric s'o(l+ be con+itione+ in a stan+ar+ testing atmosp'ere before mar3ing o(t: s(ppose sample c(t 5- O 5- cm an+ stitc'ing an+ mar3e+ o(t 35 O 35 cm :a hing' T'e sample is %as'e+ in t'e rele/ant %as'ing sol(tion in a %as'ing mac'ine. 4fter t'e specifie+ time 'as elapse+ t'e sample is rinse+.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 44

1.

Drying' 4fter rinsing: t'e s(rpl(s %ater is remo/e+ b" centrif(ge or b" 'an+ s<(ee>ing. .r"ing is complete+ b" means of a flat 'eate+ press or a 'eate+ flat iron.

Shrinkage (ercentage #alculation' ,'rin3age percentage L 5'ere:

L-

1--A L- L1 B L-

L1

L T'e +istance bet%een t'e +at(m lines before %as'ing. L T'e +istance bet%een +at(m lines after %as'ing.

0enerall" in in+(str" *,8 stan+ar+ scales are (se+ %'ere t'e scale is 35 cm an+ contain s'rin3age percentage: for t'is reason t'e" meas(res s'rin3age percentage +irectl".

5ea urement of Shrinkage'

!ecipe' &ac'ine ,ample 5ater .etergent !eat Time .r"ing D 5'irlpool 0arments %as'ing mac'ine A&a+e b" *n+iaB. D 5-gm A*n+i/i+(alB. D 1.2 3g. D 2gmS1 A,(rf ExcelB. D 4- 6 D 2- &in(tes. D Hormal air +r"ing AFlat .r"ingB.

T'e ,'rin3age %as teste+ in fi/e places of eac' fabric sample an+ at eac' place t%o rea+ings %ere ta3en before an+ after %as'. T'e teste+ res(lts are s'o%n in tables Table . Teste+ res(lts are also presente+ grap'icall" an+ s'o%n in Fig(re 23 %'ere s'rin3age %as plotte+ against inp(t tension Al"cra fee+B AmmB. From to t'e mentione+ +ata c'arts %ere pro+(ce+ in %'ic' O-axis in+icates t'e inp(t tension. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'ree +ifferent inp(t tensions %ere generate+ from t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ e.g. 1)-: 17- 215-. T'(s in case 1)- t'e l"cra fee+ %as 'ig'est as a res(lt tension %ill be lo%est similarl" for 15- t'e l"cra fee+ %as lo%est as a res(lt inp(t tension %ill be 'ig'est. T'ese t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ %ere plotte+ against ,'rin3age in+icate in #-axis an+ s'o%n in Fig(re 23. 4ccor+ing to t'is c'art it %as follo%e+ t'at %'en 1"cra Fee+ Tension increases t'en t'e ,'rin3age ; gra+(all" +ecreases. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'o(g' inp(t tension %ere (se+ as 1)-: 17- 2 15- b(t in t'e program con/erte+ it to 1: 2 2 3. T'erefore 1 in+icates lo%est tension an+ 3 in+icate 'ig'est inp(t tension.
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 4"

!e ult '
)a/le 2' Data a/out Shrinkage. .0#!% &EED 1"6 :idth @InchA 15.-13.)1.16 .ycra &eed 116 :idth @InchA 15.-13.)2 1.62 .ycra &eed 136 :idth @InchA 15.-13.)3 1.-7

Before :a hing %fter :a hing Difference @InchA

.ength @InchA 15.-13.)5 1.6" .ength @InchA 15.-13.)4 1.6$ .ength @InchA 15.-13.)5 1.-5

Before :a hing %fter :a hing Difference @InchA

Before :a hing %fter :a hing Difference @InchA

.ycra &eed @1"6A'

Percentage of ,'rin3age 5i+t' %ise +irection L L Percentage of ,'rin3age 1engt' %ise +irection L L

1--A L- L1 B L1--A15 13.)-B 15 1--A L- L1 B L1--A15 13.)5B 15

L 7.33 ;.

L 7.-- ;.

.ycra &eed @116A'

Percentage of ,'rin3age 5i+t' %ise +irection L L Percentage of ,'rin3age 1engt' %ise +irection L

1--A L- L1 B L1--A15 13.)2B 15

1--A L- L1 B L1--A15 13.)4B L 15 EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 4$

L 7.2- ;.

L 7.-7 ;.

.ycra &eed @136A'

Percentage of ,'rin3age 5i+t' %ise +irection L L Percentage of ,'rin3age 1engt' %ise +irection L L

1--A L- L1 B L1--A15 13.)3B 15 1--A L- L1 B L1--A15 13.)5B 15

L 7.13;.

L 7.-- ;.

3.3.(. Extensi!ility:
4ccor+ing to Textile Terms an+ .efinition b" T'e Textile *nstit(te Extensibilit" can be +efine as: MT'e increase in lengt' of a specimen +(ring a tensile test expresse+ as percentage of t'e ga(ge lengt' or t'e nominal ga(ge lengt'N.

5ea urement of Exten i/ility'

Extensibilit" %as meas(re+ man(all" beca(se of t'ere is less instr(ment in TTW6 laborator". To meas(re extensibilit" +ifferent loa+ li3e 2--gm: 3--gm an+ 4--gm are applie+. T'e experimental samples are c(t 12Y4 inc' an+ t'is sample is 'anging %it' loa+ remaining fo(r min(tes. T'en t'e elongation lengt' is meas(re in
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 41

meter scale (se of (nit inc'. 4ll of t'e +ata collecte+ abo(t fi/e places at abo(t fi/e times an+ finall" calc(late a/erage +ata t'at are collecte+ on Table ). From to t'e mentione+ +ata c'arts %ere pro+(ce+ in %'ic' O-axis in+icates t'e inp(t tension. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'ree +ifferent inp(t tensions %ere generate+ from t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ e.g. 1)-: 17- 215-. T'(s in case 1)- t'e 1"cra fee+ %as 'ig'est as a res(lt tension %ill be lo%est similarl" for 15- t'e 1"cra fee+ %as lo%est as a res(lt inp(t tension %ill be 'ig'est. T'ese t'ree +ifferent rates of 1"cra fee+ %ere plotte+ against extensibilit" in+icate in #-axis an+ s'o%n in fig(res24. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'o(g' inp(t tension %ere (se+ as 1)-: 17- 2 15- b(t in t'e program con/erte+ it to 1: 2 2 3. T'erefore 1 in+icates lo%est tension an+ 3 in+icate 'ig'est inp(t tension. )a/le 3' 5ea urement of Exten i/ility :ith different .ycra &eed )en ion. 1"cra Fee+ A15-B *nitial 5it' 1oa+ Extension 1engt' 1engt' A*nc'B A*nc'B A*nc'B 12 13.75 1.75 12 15.-3.-12 17.-5.-1"cra Fee+ A17-B *nitial 5it' 1oa+ Extension 1engt' 1engt' A*nc'B A*nc'B A*nc'B 12 14.12.112 15.75 3.75 12 1 .56.51"cra Fee+ A1)-B *nitial 5it' 1oa+ Extension 1engt' 1engt' A*nc'B A*nc'B A*nc'B 12 14.52.512 16.25 4.25 12 1).-7.--

H(mber of 1oa+ AgmB obser/ation 1. 2. 3. 2-3-4--

4fter .isplace 1oa+ 1engt' A*nc'B 12.112.45 13.-4fter .isplace 1oa+ 1engt' A*nc'B 12.15 12.513.4fter .isplace 1oa+ 1engt' A*nc'B 12.212.613.2-

H(mber of 1oa+ AgmB obser/ation 1. 2. 3. 2-3-4--

H(mber of 1oa+ AgmB obser/ation 1. 2. 3. 2-3-4--

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 42

". 0iscussion of )esults:

From t'e abo/e experiment of effect of inp(t tension of elastomeric "arn A1"craB on 3nitte+ fabric properties %e fo(n+ t'e follo%ing res(lts.

".1. Effect of 5ales $er Inch:

4ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 16 an+ Table 6 27 %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at as 1"cra Fee+ Tension increases t'e 5ales per *nc' are +ecreases. T'is is probabl" beca(se of t'at %'en fee+ tension of "arn increases t'en t'e s'rin3age %o(l+ occ(r 5ales %ise +irect ion +(e to t'e 'ig' exten+e+ properties of 1"cra "arn.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. 43

42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32

Wales per Inch (Before Washing) Wales per Inch (After Washing)

41 39 40 39 37 35

Wales per Inch

2 Lycra Feed

&igure 13' Effect of :ale per Inch of 4ariou &eeding )en ion of .ycra.

".2. Effect of 6ourse $er Inch:

4ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 1 an+ Table 6 27 %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at %'en 1"cra Fee+ Tension increases t'en t'e 6o(rse per *nc' are gra+(all" +ecreases. T'is is probabl" beca(se of t'at %'en fee+ tension of "arn increases t'en t'e s'rin3age co(l+ be occ(r 6o(rse %ise +irection +(e to t'e 'ig' exten+e+ properties of 1"cra "arn.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. "6

90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0

o!rse per Inch (Before Washing) o!rse per Inch (After Washing)

75 66 61 67

78 71

Course per Inch

2 Lycra Feed

&igure 26' Effect of #our e per Inch in 4ariou &eeding )en ion of .ycra.

".3. Effect of Stitch 2ength:

4ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 2- an+ Table 6 2 7 %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at %'en 1"cra Fee+ Tension increases t'en t'e ,titc' lengt' are also increases.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. "1

#titch $ength (Before Washing) #titch $ength (After Washing)

3"1 Stitch Lenght (mm) 3"05 3 2"95 2"9 2"85 1 2 Lycra Feed 3 3"07 2"99 3"01 2"98 2"97 2"93

&igure 21' Effect of Stitch length @mmA in 4ariou &eeding )en ion of .ycra.

".". Effect of 3S+:

4ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 22 an+ Table 6 27 %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at %'en 1"cra Fee+ Tension increases t'en t'e 0,& are gra+(all" +ecreases. T'is is probabl" beca(se of t'at %'en fee+ tension of "arn increases t'en t'e s'rin3age co(l+ be occ(r 5ales 2 6o(rse %ise +irection +(e to t'e 'ig' exten+e+ properties of 1"cra "arn.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. "2

%#& (Before Washing)

%#& (After Washing)

250 245 240 GSM 235 230 225 220 215 1 2 Lycra Feed 3 225"59 232"12 230"38 238"3 244"48 237"47

&igure 22' Effect of ,S5 in 4ariou &eeding )en ion of .ycra.

".%. Effect of Shrinkage:

4ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 23 Table %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at %'en 1"cra Fee+ Tension increases t'en t'e s'rin3age percentage are gra+(all" +ecreases.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. "3

7"4 7"3 Shrinkage % 7"2 7"1 7 6"9 6"8

Wi'th (ise #hrin)age

$ength (ise #hrin)age

7"33 7"2 7"13 7 7"13 7"2

2 Lycra Feed

&igure 23' Effect of Shrinkage (ercentage of 4ariou &eed )en ion.

".(. Effect of Extensi!ility:

4ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 24 an+ Table ) %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at %'en 1"cra Fee+ Tension increases t'en t'e extensibilit" being increases. 5e 'a/e also follo%e+ t'at %'en respecti/e loa+ is increases t'en t'e elongation increases 2 t'at extension abo/e t'e smaller loa+.
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. "4

*+tensi,ilit- ($oa' 200 g.) *+tensi,ilit- ($oa' 400 g.)

*+tensi,ilit- ($oa' 300 g.)

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0

6"5 5 3"75 3 1"75 2"1

E tensi!ility (Inch)

4"25 2"5

2 Lycra Feed

&igure 24' Effect of Exten i/ility in 4ariou &eeding )en ion of .ycra -ith Different .oad.

%. 6onclusion:
T'e inp(t tension of 1"cra "arn is /er" important for t'e 3nit fabric properties. From t'is proCect it is fo(n+ t'at %'en t'e 1"cra fee+ %as lo%est inp(t tension %ill be 'ig'est fabric properties 2 if inp(t tension c'anges in same fabric b(t in +ifferent places 5ales per inc': 6o(rse per inc': stitc' lengt': 0,& an+ s'rin3age: Extensibilit" are also c'anges. To stabili>e t'ere propert" a goo+ finis'ing
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. ""

is re<(ire+: it 'elp t'e fabric to f(lfill t'e re<(ire+ <(alit". 4ll t'e experiment %as +one in single Cerse" fabric: b(t fabric propert" also +ifferent in $ib: *nterloc3: Fleece 2 ot'er fabric. T'ere are /ario(s t"pes of +imensional c'ange in ot'er fabric str(ct(re: to 3no% abo(t t'em it nee+s to +o more researc' on t'ose fabric. 5e 'ope t'at t'e textile sector %ill ma3e 7angla+es' from +e/eloping co(ntr" to a +e/elope+ co(ntr" an+ to f(lfill t'e +eman+ of gro%ing '(ge n(mber of people of t'e %orl+.

(. 4$$endix:
$.1. .i t of )a/le ' )a/le 1' Qario(s T"pes of P'"sical Properties of ,pan+ex "arn an+ $elate+ 6omparison------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. "$

)a/le 2' .ifferent T"pes of Tra+e Hame of ,pan+ex #arn Psable in Qario(s 6o(ntries--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16 )a/le 3' *+entification of ,pan+ex #arn Psing 7(rn Test an+ 4lso T'eir Properties--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24 )a/le 4' Test of Qario(s T"pes of ,pan+ex &aterials Properties an+ T'eir Psing *nstr(ment------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 27 )a/le "' Pro+(ct of ,pan+ex 0oo+s an+ T'eir Pse------------------------------------- 3)a/le $' &eas(rement of 5ales per *nc': 6o(rse per *nc': ,titc' 1engt' an+ 0,& %it' .ifferent Fee+ing Tension of 1"cra-------------------------------------------------- 3) )a/le 1' &eas(rement of 5ales per *nc': 6o(rse per *nc': ,titc' 1engt' an+ 0,& %it' .ifferent Fee+ing Tension of 1"cra in 4fter 5as'ing---------------------------- 3) )a/le 2' .ata abo(t ,'rin3age------------------------------------------------------------- 46 )a/le 3' &eas(rement of Extensibilit" 5it' +ifferent 1"cra Fee+ Tension--------- 4

6.2. .i t of &igure' &igure 1' P'otograp's of 4ncient Textile Tec'nolog"----------------------------------- 5 &igure 2' P'otograp's of .ecorati/e Knitte+ 0oo+s ------------------------------------ 6 &igure 3' P'otograp's of Elasstomeric Fibre to #arn ------------------------------------ 7 &igure 4' ,tressF,train 6(r/es ------------------------------------------------------------ 11 &igure "' &onomer of t'e Elastomeric #arn Fo(n+ b" .(Pont ---------------------- 14 &igure $' P'otograp's of ,pan+ex Fibre Pro+(ction &et'o+s ------------------------ 1
EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. "1

&igure 1' ,c'ematic .iagram of 5et-,pinning Process ------------------------------- 21 &igure 2' ,c'ametic .iagram of .r" ,pinning Process -------------------------------- 22 &igure 3' P'otograp's of Experimental Knitting &ac'ine ---------------------------- 33 &igure 16' 7asic Pict(re of ,imple ,ingle Gerse" Knit ,tr(ct(re---------------------- 35 &igure 11' ,ample of Experimental Knitte+ Fabric------------------------------------- 35 &igure 12' P'otograp's of 1atc' Hee+le 4cti/ation Forming ,ingle Gerse"-------- 36 &igure 13' P'otograp's of 1atc' Hee+le an+ 5eb !ol+ing ,in3er 4rrangement----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36 &igure 14' P'otograp's of 6am ."namics of ,ingle Gerse" Knitte+ Fabrics-------- 37 &igure 1"' P'otograp's T'at ,'o%ing 5ales per *nc'--------------------------------- 4&igure 1$' P'otograp's T'at ,'o%ing 6o(rse per *nc'-------------------------------- 41 &igure 11' P'otograp's T'at ,'o%ing ,titc' 1engt'----------------------------------- 42 &igure 12' P'otograp's of ,ample 6(tter %it' 0,& 7alance------------------------- 43 &igure 13' Effect of 5ales per *nc' of Qario(s Fee+ing Tension of 1"cra---------- 5&igure 26' Effect of 6o(rse per *nc' in Qario(s Fee+ing Tension of 1"cra--------- 51 &igure 21' Effect of ,titc' lengt' AmmB in Qario(s Fee+ing Tension of 1"cra-----52 &igure 22' Effect of 0,& in Qario(s Fee+ing Tension of 1"cra---------------------- 53 &igure 23' Effect of ,'rin3age Percentage of Qario(s Fee+ Tension----------------- 54 &igure 24' Effect of Extensibilit" in Qario(s Fee+ing Tension of 1"cra %it' .ifferent 1oa+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 55 $.3. Bi/liography' Book ' 1. Textile Terms an+ .efinition b" t'e Textile *nstit(te ATent' E+itionB: 1))7. 2. Knitting Tec'nolog" b" .a/i+ G. ,pencer AT'ir+ E+itionB: 2--1. 3. 6irc(lar Knitting b" 1"er A,econ+ E+itionB: 1))5. 4. Textile *n+(str" Pn+er 0lobali>ation b" &. ,o(n+arapan+in AFirst E+itionB: 2--4.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. "2

5. !an+ 7oo3 of Tec'nical Textiles b" A R Horrocks and S C Anand (F rs! Ed ! on)" #$$$. 6. !an+ 7oo3 of Textile Fibres b" G. 0or+on 6oo3 AFift' E+itionB: 1) 4. 7. Textile Testing 7" P. 4ngappan AFo(rt' E+itionB: 1))7. . Principles of Textile Testing b" G. E. 7oot' AT'ir+ E+itionB: 1))6. ). &an-&a+e Fibres b" $. 5. &oncrieff A,ixt' E+itionB: 1)75. 1-.Pol"mer ,cience 7" Q. $. 0o%ari3er AFo(rteent' $eprintB: &a" 1))). :e/ ite' 1. 'ttpDSS%%%.70&E4.com 2. 'ttpDSS%%%.7K&E4.com 3. 'ttpDSS%%%.google.com 4. 'ttpDSS%%%."a'oo.com 5. 'ttpDSS%%%.te(line.com 6. 'ttpDSS%%%.eboo3ee.com.cn 7. 'ttpDSS%%%.727man(fact(rer.com . 'ttpDSS%%%. cn-"ana.com ). 'ttpDSS%%%.fibre2fas'ion.com 1-.'ttpDSS%%%.textileglossar".com 11.'ttpDSS%%%.E>ine4rticles.com 8e- paper' 1. T'e Prot'om 4lo. 17t' Ho/ember 2-- . 2-t' Ho/ember 2-- . 2-t' G(l" 2--). Seminar (aper' 1. *TET ,eminar: Presente+ b" &iCan(r $a'man 7'(i"an on 27 t' G(l" 2--7.

$.4. !eference ' *nternet. He%spaper. 70&E4. Q*#E114TEO. 7extex 1imite+. ,eminar Paper.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. "3

.r. &+. &a'b(b(l !a<(e: !ea+: .epartment of t'e Textile Engineering in .*P. &r. 4brar 4'me+ 4p(: 4ssistant Professor in .*P. &+. &ostafa Raman: 1ect(rer in .*P. &r. $(baet: Exec(ti/e 8fficer in 4nlima Textile 1T.. 4.&.&. Ga'angir 4lam: ,enior &anager in 8&6. &+. &a>'ar(l *slam: 40& in Q*#E114TEO. 7oo3s from .affo+il *nternational Pni/ersit" 1ibrar". Personal collection.

EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES. $6