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Spreading &Cutting Spreading: The process of rolling out layer after layer of cloth, smoothly without wrinkles, in such

a manner that the selvedge on one side of the cloth is straight, and parallel to that edge of the cutting table. Cutting: cutting of fabric in to necessary pattern shapes is the first stage in the garment manufacturing process. The importance of cutting Room The cutting room has a greater effect on excessive manufacturing costs than any other department concerned with the actual production of garments. Internal costs: Those incurred in the cutting room itself. External costs: Those incurred by other departments as a result of the malfunctions of the cutting room. Internal costs Labour: effective utilization Efficiency- The fashion industry is plagued by short lead times Materials- !" to #!" of the cost price of most of the mass produced clothing and largest cost component of a garment.

The factors influencing materials utilization

External costs Co ordination among all the departments Defects- $eadily visible cloth defects must be eliminated during spreading or before issuing the work to the sewing room. Matching- matching of badly aligned components would almost certainly result in distorted garments Accuracy- %uality problems, inaccurate cutting not only causes hold-ups in production but could also mean the costly re-cutting of components. Sewing- &uides for sewing, such as nips, notches, drill holes Shading - accurate shade marking in the cutting room is essential to prevent mi'ing -up. Quality- ('cessive costs can be incurred by the re)ection of finished garments for faults

The !ature of "abric #ac$ages The way in which fabric is rolled or folded when dyeing and finishing is completed is referred to as *put up+. Some methods of put-up are used to protect the fabric others are strictly for the convenience of spreading and handling. ,lat, open and rolled ,olded and $olled Tubular ,olded -ook ,old

"lat% open and rolled& is the most common preparation o The fabric is rolled on a hard cardboard tube .or plastic tube/ where the selvedges are at opposite ends of the tube. o The fabric is usually rolled with the technical face to the inside of the roll.

"olded and Rolled is a put-up that allows the utilization of a single center fold in the length of the goods. 0n this preparation, the fabric selvedges are superimposed one over the other. This preparation is utilized with very wide fabrics that cannot be processed by a manufacturer who does not have wide enough cutting tables.

Tubular "olded goods are prepared by rolling fabrics manufacturers on weft knitting machines.

This preparation results in the technical face of the fabric oriented together. ,or every other layer, the face is not visible from the surface of the spread. 'oo$ "old is the most rela'ed put up. ,abric is laid back and forth in a carton. -ook ,old is used for delicate fabrics to minimize the stress on the fabric. 1 (elvet "rame is used for pile fabrics. 1 tube connects two s%uare frames that contain concentric circles of sharp hooks. The fabric is hung from the hooks where the selvedges are fastened to pairs of hooks .at each edge of the fabric/ starting closest to the center and rotating around the center to the outer edge of the frames. This creates an air space between the concentric layers of fabric. Carded 'olt is a put-up most often seen in men2s suiting and fabric retail. The fabric is folded in half lengthwise, and rolled on a flat board .cardboard/. FA !I" #!E-I$S#E"%I&$ "abric is pre inspected as it arrives in the manufacturing warehouse for two distinct reasons. 3. To confirm that the percentage of damages promised by the mill is not e'ceeded. 4. 5re-marking the damages in the fabric speed up the spreading process, better insuring that the spreader will recognize and remove all the damages in the fabric before they reach the sewing room. #roduction processes in the cutting Room The factor distinguishing the operations of one cutting room from another is the level of technology employed. Cutting production starts with the receipt of inspected raw materials, production orders and graded patterns and finishes when bundles of cut work are issued for sewing.

#lanning )Material *tilization+

Changing market demands and varied production strategies are creating diverse needs for preproduction processes. Small orders, increased fle'ibility, and 6uick $esponse e'pectations are creating the need for fast turns on markers, low-volume spreads, and high-speed low-ply cutters. Material utilization is the process of optimizing the use of materials during product development and production. 1ll preproduction operations-cut order planning, marker making, spreading, and cuttingimpact material utilization. 5reproduction operations are dependent on perfected patterns. Technical designers and production pattern makers develop the patterns for styles accepted into the line, perfect them, and grade them into appropriate sizes. 1ll the patterns in each size of a style are verified, that is, checked very carefully before sending them to cut order planning.

#attern verification Correctness of grade increments Compatibility of grading with style specifications 7ength and alignment of ad)oining seam allowances 8otch placement and alignment with ad)oining pattern pieces. 5lacement of internal markings 5lacement of grain markings

Cut order planning


Cut order planning can be done manually or by computer. 8ew computer technology is much faster, more accurate, and supported with more data on all the variables. Computerized cut order planning allows e'perimentation with alternative cutting plans to develop the most efficient options. Cut order planning is a prere%uisite to tight markers. Responsibilities of Cut order planning& ('amining incoming orders and width and availability of piece goods. 9etermining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making 9etermining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed. 9eveloping specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization 9etermining most effective use of spreading and cutting e%uipment. 0ssuing orders for marker making, spreading, and cutting. "actors affecting cut order planning 1s many as fift, different variables, in addition to fabric information, may affect cut order planning. Some of the most common considerations are these: 8umber of sizes in order 8umber of colors in order :a'imum;minimum number sizes allowed in marker. :a'imum spread length of :a'imum ply height 5ercentage of undercut units ,abric cost per yard <sable cloth width overcut or

=idth variation Common lines among pattern pieces Costs of making markers Costs of spreading Costs of cutting Costs of bundling ,abric roll change time

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