Photography Tutorial

Tel: 00353 1 620 5156 Email: info@digitalbeginners.com www.digitalbeginners.
s.com All text, photographs and illustrations David McKane 2006 DBP03 - 7 TIPS FOR SOFTER LOOKING LIGHT 1 of 10
www. DIGITALBeginners.com
Making Photography Easier
BDP03A4 - 010106
7tipsforsofter
lookinglight
Beginners Digital Photography - Tutorial 03

Tel: 00353 1 620 5156 Email: info@digitalbeginners.com www.digitalbeginners.com All text, photographs and illustrations David McKane 2006 DBP03 - 7 TIPS FOR SOFTER LOOKING LIGHT 2 of 10
7 tips for softer looking light
U
nless you are looking for a specific creative effect, soft light is the kind of light that we
should be looking for in our photographs. When photographing people soft light is kinder
on skin and it makes it less blotchy, especially those with Northern European complexions.
Soft light is also less likely to show hard reflections on spectacles and other reflective
surfaces such as metal, gloss paint, skin etc. Strong colours look much more natural with
soft light, colours are less hard and are closer to what they look like in real life.
The one thing that professional photographers have over the rest of us is knowledge of the
effects of different kinds of light. They also know how various types of lighting equipment can
cause light to be hard (direct flash, bare bulbs) or soft (through a diffuser, reflected off
various surfaces such as ceilings).
The following tips will show you how to get these professional effects using simple
techniques, which assume little or no prior knowledge of how your camera works in different
lighting situations. As always, we keep it simple and walk you slowly through the different
techniques involved.
The larger a light source is, the softer the light from it will be. One of the reasons why
flashlight is so hard is that it is coming from a small concentrated area. Instead try placing
your subject close to a window in daytime, you will find that the light is softer and more
moody; make sure the flash is turned off.
Shadows can still be a little dark (Photo 1a), but if you tape a number of sheets of white
paper together you can soften the shadows and make the shot more appealing. The sheets
reflect a little light back therefore lightening the shadows a little (Photo 1b and 1c). Any
reflective material such as bed sheers or aluminium foil will work as well.
tip 1 Use a window to soften the light
PHOTO 1B - Paper reflector softens shadows PHOTO 1C - Taped sheets of paper reflect a
little light into the shadows
PHOTO 1A - Soft light from a window
tip 2 Use candles as the main source of light
PHOTO 2B - Same shot with White Balance
set to Indoor (bulb)
PHOTO 2C - Same shot with reflected light to
lighten the shadows
Taped sheets of paper reflect
a little light into the shadows
PHOTO 2A - Candlelight shot with Auto White
Balance and no fill light
Candlelight gives a very special effect but unfortunately the light from it is hard. Because this
effect is usually achieved at night there is little or no available light to help soften the deep
shadows (Photo 2a). Again, if you tape a number of sheets of white paper together you can
soften the shadows and make the shot more appealing. The sheets reflect a little light back
therefore lightening the shadows (and reducing the contrast) a little bit (Photo 2b).
You may find the light from the candle is a little too yellow (Photo 2a), if so, turn your
cameras White Balance settings to Incandescent or Indoor, usually illustrated by a light
bulb (Photo 2c).
Bright sun is not all it is cracked up to be! Because direct sunlight is so strong subjects can
easily be blinded. Shadows tend to be hard and dark (Photo 3a).
One simple technique is to bring your subject under a tree or other overhanging canopy (Photo
3b). Immediately the light is softer, shadows are lighter and the subjects eyes are open. Fill-in
flash can also be used (Photo 3c) where you deliberately turn the flash on. The camera has
balanced the light between the soft natural backlit light and the hard light of the flash.
tip 3 Place your subject under a tree or canopy
PHOTO 3B - A tree softens the light and
allows the eyes to be wide open
PHOTO 3C - Subject under a tree with flash
turned on
PHOTO 3A - Subject blinded by strong
sunlight; shadows hard and dark
PHOTO 4C - Shot re-composed and taken with
new exposure setting. Subject is now
correctly exposed.
PHOTO 4B - Exposure lightened by pointing
camera down from the bright light source
and using Shutter Button to lock exposure.
You can get a very pleasant photo if you position your subject with the sun behind them. The
effect of the light around the edges of the body is called a rim light or background light.
If your subject is too dark (Photo 4b) then point the camera down a little, away from the bright
light. Hold your finger halfway down on the shutter to keep the new exposure, then re-
compose and take the shot (Photo 4c).
The illustration on the left shows how to lock the exposure on a compact camera. SLRs
usually have a separate button for locking the exposure.
tip 4 Put the sun behind the subject
Camera
Body
Collar or body
surrounding
Shutter Button
Shutter
Button
POSITION 1
Finger resting
on collar keeps
Shutter Button
pressed half way,
locking the Focus
and Exposure
POSITION 2
Finger pressed all
the way down
takes the shot
USING THE SHUTTER BUTTON
TO LOCK FOCUS AND EXPOSURE
PHOTO 4A - Subject is turned away from the
sun, but the camera is fooled by the strong
light from the sun; shot is under exposed,
If you find it too difficult to use the shutter button to lock the exposure on your camera,
another technique you can use to soften shadows in the daytime is to use fill-in flash.
Again, if a bright light or the sun is behind your subject the strong light may fool the camera.
This can result in a dark or underexposed shot (Photo 5a).
Make sure the flash on your camera is turned on and re-take the shot. The camera will
automatically work out the best exposure, particularly if the subject is close (Photo 5b).
The flash button is usually on the back of your camera. In automatic mode it will only come on
when it is too dark so make sure the flash symbol shows in your LCD Screen (see left).
tip 5 Use flash to soften dark shadows (Fill-in Flash)
PHOTO 5B - Subject is properly lit when the
flash is turned on
PHOTO 5A - Camera is fooled by the strong
light from the sun; shot is too dark
FLASH BUTTONS
EXPLAINED
AUTO FLASH
Camera is left to
decide when the
flash comes on. Sometimes
this is options represented
by no Flash Symbol
showing at all.
FLASH ALWAYS ON
The flash will always
fire, even in the brightest
sunlight.
FLASH ALWAYS OFF
Flash never fires, no
matter how dark.
RED-EYE
REDUCTION
Camera will fire one
or more pre-flashes to try
to reduce the effect of
Red-Eye in low light.
NIGHT PORTRAIT
Used to photograph
people in front of
poorly lit backgrounds such
as floodlit buildings. Flash
will fire and the camera will
ltry to balance the low light
of the background with the
strong light of the flash.
A
A
A
A
A
tip 6 Bounce the flash off the ceiling
PHOTO 6B - Bounced flash results in softer
shadows and no red eye
PHOTO 6A - Direct flash results in hard
shadows and red eye
SLR cameras allow you to use a separate flash gun. These can swivel so they bounce the
light off a white ceiling, making the light look like it is coming from above. This technique also
makes the shadows softer.
But what if you cannot use an external flashgun (Photo 6a)? Try using white card or highly
reflective material such as a mirror, place it directly under your flash but make sure not to
block any sensors on the front of the camera. Your flash might be powerful enough to throw
the extra distance up to the ceiling and back down to the subject (Photo 6b).
Best results are achieved with normal height ceilings of 2.4 metres (8 feet), which are white.
To use this effect you may
need to increase the power of
your flash. Also, the more
reflective the card the better.
This technique may not work
on all cameras.
The Macro button allows you to take close-up photographs of small objects. The window
technique as described in tip 1 can be used here, but this may result in shadows that are too
dark. Another problem can be that rounded reflective objects show up the surrounding room
like a strange mirror (Photo 7a). The light is also very blue from the outside sky.
The easy way to soften the light and shadows on your subject is to create a light tent of
tissue paper around your camera. This softens the light as it travels through the thin tissue
paper and lets light reflect back from the white inside, softening the shadows even further
and making the colours more natural. Reflections are also significantly cut down (Photo 7b).
Try this technique with your flash on, for situations where the natural light is too low.
tip 7 Use tissue paper to soften light for Macro shots
PHOTO 7B - Subject surrounded by a light tent made of tissue
paper, shadows are softer, colours are more natural and reflections
have been cut down.
PHOTO 7A - Subject lit by available light from a window. Shadows are
dark, overall colour is very blue and the shiny fork is reflecting the
contents of the room
Make sure that the tissue
paper surrounds the subject.
Compact Camera users should
make sure it does not block
any of the sensors on the
front. SLRs users can bring
the tissue paper right up to
the lens.
7 tips for softer looking light
tip 1 Use a window to soften the light
tip 2 Use candles as the main source of light
tip 3 Place your subject under a tree or canopy
tip 4 Put the sun behind the subject
tip 5 Use flash to soften dark shadows (Fill-in Flash)
tip 6 Bounce the flash off the ceiling
tip 7 Use tissue paper to soften light for Macro shots
Tel: 00353 1 620 5156 Email: info@digitalbeginners.com www.digitalbeginners.com All text, photographs and illustrations David McKane 2006 DBP03 - 7 TIPS FOR SOFTER LOOKING LIGHT 11
A
t Digital Beginners we are dedicated to making photography easier. Our notes only cover
Digital Photography. We do not burden you with unnecessary information about topics you
do not need to know about. With this in mind, we have made a deliberate decision to exclude
any discussion about the characteristics of film, developing film or film cameras. Knowledge in
this area is not needed to be a good Digital Photographer.
Also, too many teachers in this field forget how difficult the jargon is for the average user of
digital cameras and software. We make learning easy for you. We do this by breaking
everything down into bite size chunks and then repeating the key concepts so that you can
take it all in, little piece by little piece.
All of our notes are specially written in plain English and are illustrated with full colour
photographs and illustrations to show you exactly what you need to learn. They have been fine-
tuned in a classroom setting, so each of the tips in this set of notes work in the real world.
Digital Beginners, Making Photography Easier!
All text, photographs and illustrations 2006 David McKane
Digital Beginners, 50 Canal Walk, Park West, Dublin 12, Ireland
Telephone: 00 353 1 620 5156 Fax: 00 353 1 620 5157
Feedback Email: notes@digitalbeginners.com
At Digital Beginners we teach for the real world
Tel: 00353 1 620 5156 Email: info@digitalbeginners.com www.digitalbeginners.com All text, photographs and illustrations David McKane 2006 DBP03 - 7 TIPS FOR SOFTER LOOKING LIGHT 12
To help save on paper and ink we have added a section at the end that has 2 pages in 1.
Full Page Format 2 in 1 Page Format
Print Pages 1 to 10 Print Pages 13 to 17
Full Page or 2 in 1 Page Printing Format
With either format, please make sure that
Page Scaling is set to Fit to Printer Margins
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