Professional Documents
Culture Documents
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How Much Is Enough?
What's Your Type?
DIMMs and SIMMs
Parody - er, Parity Check
Consumer Alert
Installing RAM
But the memory landscape is much more confusing than even a couple of years
ago. The acronyms have evolved into a veritable alphabet soup of memory types:
EDO, BEDO, SDRAM, FP, RAMBUS. Each new motherboard chipset that finds its
way into your computer seems to want a different type of memory. Well, we're here to
help you sort through the memory types and walk you through the process of installa-
tion.
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This is a tough question. However, there are a couple of rules of thumb. First, know
thy motherboard. You must be aware of what chipset you have in your system. t turns
out that adding too much memory can actually slow down your computer. The reason
for this is the L2 cache.
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There are two types of cache in your computer: level 1 and level 2. The level 1 cache
(also known as L1 cache) is inside the CPU itself, and you really have no control over
quantity and speed. The level 2 cache (also known as L2 cache) on Pentium, AMD
K6, and Cyrix systems are all external to the chip. The L2 cache on the Pentium Pro
and Pentium are inside the CPU package (though still external to the CPU chip
itself).
Those Pentium, K6, and Cyrix systems run on motherboards with a variety of core
logic chipsets. However, some of them are designed so that the L2 cache only works
with the first 64MB of RAM in your system. The two main culprits are the ntel 430VX
and 430TX chipsets - two of the most common Pentium-class chipsets available.
Now, 64MB is a lot of RAM, so it's not like your system is somehow crippled (at least,
not for gaming). But you should be aware that in the case of boards using these
chipsets, more is not necessarily better.
So what are you going to need to create a complete computer? Briefly, they
are: case and power supply, mass storage, audio, keyboard (and controllers),
modem, graphics card, monitor, memory, and CPU/motherboard - the system.
We will cover each component set, one at a time.
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The case chose is the Procase mid-tower (www.procaseusa.com).
picked up this variant of the Procase at a local dealer. t came with a 235-watt power
supply and cost $79. t has a slide-out motherboard tray, but the cover is the more
common U-shaped variant, rather than side-opening. For a few dollars more, you can
find the Asus / Elan Vital T10-AB that's used in GameSpot's Lean Machine.
Basically, a computer case is a specially made box or container that holds the guts of
the computer. Many have their own power supply and are constructed to provide input
and output access of all sorts, typically through the front and back.
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Mass storage is simply a more general term for a device that lets you store information
on a medium. n this case, we are talking disk drive devices - hard, floppy, CD, DVD,
and so on.
found a Fireball Plus KA 6.4GB hard drive for $149 at www.necx.com. That's an
amazing price for a 7,200rpm DE drive. A Mitsumi 3.5-inch floppy drive comes in at
around $16. You can find the Toshiba 40x CD-ROM drive for $60 at most online stores
(like buy.com) and computer wholesale retailers (like Fry's).
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Sound is nearly as important as graphics in today's games. And getting good sound
requires an audio card. You can find the Diamond Sonic mpact S90, which uses the
Aureal Vortex 1 chip, for $45. chose this card because really wanted A3D positional
3D support.
Speakers are, in some ways, more critical than the sound card. A mediocre sound
card can still deliver decent audio through good speakers, but a crummy set of speak-
ers will never sound good. For a mere $65, you can get a pair of Yamaha YST-M28s
from www.necx.com.
f you're willing to go a bit higher in price, you can't beat the Boston Acoustics BA-635s
(www.bostondirect.com).
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There are lots of low-cost keyboards out there. n this case, went with a Keytronic
classic keyboard for $25. The mouse is a Logitech FirstMouse plus, complete with
wheel, for $26. Of course, had to throw in some kind of game controller. For about 40
bucks, the CH Gamestick 14 is a great little stick with a symmetric handle (good for
southpaws) and sports lots of buttons.
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wanted to stick with a name-brand modem. f you're willing to risk an unknown brand,
there are lots out there. For right around $106, found a Diamond Suprasonic 56
external modem. External modems are generally easier to set up. f that's still too rich,
the SupraExpress 56 internal modem goes for around $90. Whatever you do, avoid
soft modems, including the US Robotics Winmodem. They work fine for normal
nternet browsing, but they can be problematic for gaming.
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3D acceleration is here to stay. Most games now require some sort of hardware
graphics acceleration and that means using a graphics card. The graphics card used
in this system is the 3dfx Voodoo3 / 2000. At $110 (maybe less with some searching),
you get excellent performance and the ability to run the few Glide-only games left. You
get 16MB of graphics memory, but no TV out or software bundle.
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really, really, really wanted a 17-inch monitor. We've all been concerned about the
downspiraling economy in the Far East, but the net result has been lower prices here.
The Viewsonic Q71 've used in the past is now a startling $239 from www.necx.com.
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Although some socket 7 AGP motherboards that use the VA Apollo MVP3 chipset can
use older EDO SMMs, went with 64MB of PC100 SDRAM. A Corsair PC100 64MB
DMM goes for around $59 at www.esc-tech.com.
f you're really into performance tuning, you can pick up a CAS2 DMM (which
improves the performance of the DRAM refresh cycle slightly) for a whopping $64.
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The first system built for this chapter is based around the AMD K6-2. The retail,
boxed version of the 400MHz K6-2 costs around $90 and comes complete with cooling
fan. The K6-2 has 64KB of onboard L1 cache and contains AMD's 3DNow! enhanced
MMX-style instruction set. Games that support 3DNow! can often run faster than the
equivalent Pentium or Celeron. However, Direct3D support for 3DNow! requires that
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the game both use DirectX 6.0 and use the Direct3D transform and
lighting engine. We probably won't see many of these until the year 2000. The
net result is that most current Direct3D titles will run slower on a K6-2 than the
equivalent Pentium or Celeron. Note that you can get a boost by going to the
400MHz K6-3, but it will cost you twice as much for 256KB of embedded L2 cache.
The motherboard is almost as critical as the CPU (more critical if avoiding frustration is
a goal). valued stability over raw performance, so went with the Asus P5A. The P5A
uses the ALi Aladdin V chipset. The ALi had teething problems with many AGP 2x
boards, but recent BOS and driver updates have fixed most of the major issues.
Another interesting board is the AOpen AX59Pro, which uses the VA MVP3 chipset.
The AOpen board has the advantage of supporting EDO SMMs, so you can avoid
adding new memory if you're upgrading from an older system. However, the P5A has
five PC slots, so that cinched it for me.
Another reason for the Asus board is stability. Asus tends to be somewhat cautious
about its products, and the P5A came out later than some other socket 7 AGP boards.
The extra time to market must have paid off because installing it and bringing it up
proved every bit as easy as any Pentium system 've set up. That was a relief to me.
'd had conversations with some dealers who had been lamenting about issues with
many super 7 motherboards. A couple of dealers told me that returns of socket 7 AGP
motherboards were running about double the rate of Pentium motherboards using
ntel chipsets.
Windows 98 installed without a hitch, and all needed to do after that was install the
drivers for the ALi AGP chipset.
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Adding up all the components comes to $1,099. You may very well do better.
Remember, these are all pretty good components and include a 17-inch monitor.
Moreover, it's cheaper than the Ultimate Game Machine outlined in Appendix A. (This
also doesn't include the price for Windows 98 full install, which will set you back about
$120).
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The choice of a motherboard was a little tougher. ntel would dearly love for Celeron
users to use motherboards based on the 440EX chipset. The problem is that the
440EX can only run at 66MHz and only supports three PC slots. Even if you never
plan to overclock your system, the 440EX seriously reduces your flexibility. A 440BX-
based board will at least let you move to a fast Pentium someday - and even
Katmai. True, you still must remove the motherboard to swap the CPU support brack-
et, but you don't have to do a full upgrade.
Then, there's the socket 370 vs. slot 1 problem. The very latest Celerons only come in
socket 370 format. What recommend is to get a socket 370 to slot one adapter (a
slotket). You can then get a socket 370 Celeron, use it in a slot one motherboard, and
upgrade to a P at a later date.
Ultimately, went with the Abit BX6 rev 2.0 motherboard. The BX6/2 has five PC slots,
one AGP slot, a pair of SA slots (one SA/PC pair is shared), and four DMM slots for
memory expansion. The BX6/2 uses the ntel 440BX chipset and has Abit's innovative
Softmenu system for setting CPU speed. Note that if you get the BX6/2, you may have
to upgrade the BOS for it to recognize the faster Celeron CPUs.
The Abit system came up like a charm, and with the latest BOS, recognized the
433MHz Celeron-A. Everything else in the system installed like a charm. Windows 98
installed without a hitch. The Celeron 433 itself cost $135 at the time of purchase.
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Since we were using a 433MHz Celeron, the cost was naturally a bit higher. Even so,
the total price came in at $1,177 - less than $100 more than the K6-2 system, but
faster in applications that are not K6-2 enhanced. Of course, you must add about $120
for the price of a full version of Windows 98.
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Both of these systems perform pretty well, and the fact that you can build a system
with a 400-plus MHz CPU, 64MB of SDRAM, and a 17-inch monitor for less than
$1,200 is pretty impressive. f you're willing to go even lower on some components, it
can be cheaper still.
For example, if you were building a second system, say for your own home LAN, you
might drop the hard drive down a bit (though it's tough to beat $149), get a cheaper,
slower CD drive, a 15-inch monitor, and 32MB of RAM. That would easily bring the
cost under $1,000. Will it perform faster than a 450MHz Pentium with Voodoo2 SL?
Probably not. But these systems will run most games pretty well, and if you're willing
to cut down the resolution a bit on the really performance-intensive stuff (for example,
Unreal), you'll have yourself a very decent gaming rig, indeed.
So, now that you have all of the pieces, how exactly do you put it all together? Keep
reading, Chapter 6: Building a Computer was written for you.
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It's time to put it all together. Taking the component advice from Chapters 5 and 6, this
chapter shows you how to build your own PC. From power supply and peripherals to
the various good (and bad) chassis designs, it's all here.
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OK, so you've bought all the parts, gathered up
some tools, and found a space to work. It's time
to put it all together.
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You need a good set of tools. I've seen people try to put together a system using the
screwdrivers built into a Swiss Army Knife. Needless to say, that makes building a
computer much more of a chore than necessary.
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Planning the Install
Prepping the Motherboard
Installing the Motherboard
Attaching Connectors
Installing CPU and Memory
Installing Peripherals
Hints on Installing Windows
Final Words
You need three basic tools: a good, cordless electric screwdriver (the
straight kind, not a hand-drill type), a pair of needle-nose pliers, and a pair of
forceps. You can pick up forceps at any medical supply or electronics supply shop.
A good flashlight is also a big plus.
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The steps to putting the hardware together are pretty straightforward:
1. Prep the motherboard
Z. InstaII the motherboard into the case
J. Attach support connectors (power on, and so on)
4. Attach power
. InstaII CPU and memory
. InstaII peripheraIs (hard drives, and so one)
. InstaII expansion cards
8. Set up the BIOS
'm assuming that you have a good work surface that's static-free, or you properly
ground yourself. You only have to fry a $750 CPU once to develop a real paranoia
about static electricity. f you're unsure about how to become static-free and what it
means to be properly grounded, check out Chapter 4 for details, under the head
nstalling RAM.
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This is a step sometimes overlook. Then, usually swear under my breath and have
to yank the motherboard back out. This step is usually needed only on slot one moth-
erboards; socket 370 and socket 7 users can skip this section.
The Pentium , Pentium , and some Celeron CPUs use a cartridge format; you don't
need handle the actual chip package.
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The Pentium II singIe-edge cartridge
Boxed CPUs come with a heatsink or fan; if you buy an OEM CPU,
you'II need to get a fan.
The single-edge cartridge (SEC) requires a retention mechanism to keep it from wob-
bling inside the case. This is simply a plastic bracket that supports the Pentium car-
tridge. The brackets are attached to the motherboard via screws. On Asus mother-
boards, these screws are permanently mounted. On all other motherboards, you must
insert them.
This goes on the underside of the motherboard, with the screws protruding
through hoIes on either side of the Pentium II sIot.
Some of the newer universal retention brackets are shorter and use plastic pins to
mount to the motherboard. You may still need to manually mount them, but if you're
absent-minded and install the motherboard first, you can easily install the retention
bracket by pushing the plastic pins into the appropriate holes. Once this is done, the
motherboard is ready to install.
ATX motherboards require a back panel cutout for connectors, such as serial,
parallel, keyboard, and mouse. Gently slide the motherboards so that connectors
pop into the back panel cutouts. Check to see if the screw holes align with the screw
mounts, then gently fasten the motherboard with the correct screws. Do not force any
of the screws in.
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The system needs a number of support connectors to be functional. All ATX systems
now use a soft power switch, so there's a connector on the system board for power.
There's also connectors for various LEDs, the PC speaker, the reset switch, hard drive
LEDs, and possibly a sleep switch. Each board varies a bit, so check the manual care-
fully. Most boards these days have the labels silk screened on the surface, which
makes life much easier.
Here's a typicaI array of support connectors.
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The next step is usually the ATX power connector. t's keyed to go in one direc-
tion. Simply align the tab on the connector to the tab on the motherboard power
connector and firmly push down until you hear it click. t should not require much
force.
A properIy attached ATX power connector.
Most systems either require jumper settings or dip switches for the CPU clock speed.
Make sure those are properly set before moving on. Some systems now have the
capability to set the CPU speeds in the BOS when you boot the system; in that case,
there are probably no jumpers to set.
Now, we've got the board wired into the system. t's time for the brain transplant.
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You did remember to install the Pentium / retention bracket, right?
The connector on the slot one CPU is keyed asymmetrically, so you can only slide the
CPU into the slot one way. Check to make sure you've got the correct orientation.
Gently - gently - slide the cartridge down into the bracket, double checking one more
time to make sure that the connector key lines up with the slot 1 key. Push down
steadily until the retention bracket stops click into place. t's a very satisfying sound.
There may be brackets that support the fan as well. This was needed with some of the
original Pentium fan designs, which were pretty heavy. Newer ones are much lighter
and more compact. n addition, the tower cases use leave the CPU oriented side-
ways. This means usually don't install the heat-sink bracket.
However, you do want the fan to have power. Some fans still use the standard four-
pin, white plastic hooded connector (like those used to connect power to a hard drive),
but most fans these days use the much smaller three-pin connector attached directly
to the motherboard. This way, the BOS can monitor the fan speed. Connect the fan
power to the appropriate connector.
Here's a Pentium II in its sIot, with the fan power connector attached
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There are a couple of additional wrinkles for socket 370 CPUs. The first
wrinkle is the slot 1 adapter.
Two different types of adapters Iet you instaII a socket 370
CPU in a sIot 1 motherboard
A boxed InteI socket 370 CPU. This is a CeIeron 466.
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Whether you're installing the socket 370 CPU into a slot 1 adapter or directly into a
socket 370 motherboard, the procedure is the same. Lift up the ZF lever carefully.
Line up the cutout notches on the Celeron PPGA with notches on the socket. Gently
shove the CPU into the socket. The CPU should go in very easily. f you feel any
resistance, the pins on the CPU aren't lined up properly. Once the CPU is in place,
carefully lower the ZF lever. You only need a slight force to snap it into place.
Lowering the lever locks the CPU in place.
Now, you can install the fan onto the CPU. There are metal brackets that mount on
protruding tabs on the socket 370. Slip one side on, then pull the other side over the
matching tab.
Note the corner notches on the CeIeron. These wiII Iine up with
matching notches on the socket 370.
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Note the ZIF Iever. Lift this up to insert the CPU; Iower it once
the CPU is seated. This Iocks the CPU in pIace.
Note that installing a K6-2 or K6-3 is very similar to installing a socket 370 chip, except
there's only a single corner notch.
Here's a K6-2 in a socket 7 motherboard.
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And here it is with the fan attached.
The next step is to install the SDRAM DMMs. f you've installed 72-pin SMMs in the
past, be prepared for something different. DMMs slide straight down into the memory
socket now. The edge connectors are keyed, so you can't orient them incorrectly. f it
seems like it's taking excessive force to snap the DMM into the socket, check to make
sure you have the correct orientation.
Spread the locking clips away from the DMM slot. Slide the DMM straight down. As
you do this, the plastic locks will be pulled up by the downforce of the DMM sliding in.
When the DMM is fully seated, you'll see and feel the locking clips snap into place.
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Note that the edge connector of the DIMM is keyed. The pIastic
Iocking bracket is pushed away from the DIMM socket
When the DIMM is seated, the pIastic Iock snaps into pIace.
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Now that the motherboard, CPU, fan, and RAM are in place, it's on to the next level -
mass storage devices and cards.
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The next step is to install the floppy drive, hard disk(s), and CD-ROM drive. typically
do this after installing the CPU and RAM because once the mass storage units are in
place, it can get much more cramped inside the case. One critical note: set all jumper
settings for the drive (master/slave jumpers, and so on) before you screw the drives
into the bays. t's much easier to do that chore first. Drives and motherboards usually
come with documentation that tells you how to set master/slave functions on the
drives.
n some cases, you must attach rails to the sides of your drives, then slide them into
place. tend to avoid cases that use rails, though. Most of the cases use have small
shelves or removable drive bays. The drives screw directly into the bay.
An empty drive bay before the drives are instaIIed.
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Now you want to attach cables. This is a tedious process because even a good
mid-tower case suddenly becomes very cramped at this point. These days, most
cables are keyed so that installing them incorrectly is difficult, but it can be done. f
you install the floppy cable backward, the drive light comes on permanently. f the
hard drive cable is reversed, the symptoms may range from a complete inability to
boot to the hard drive simply not spinning up. Should the CD cable be incorrectly
attached, the CD probably won't be recognized.
Most modern boards have two DE connectors. You generally want to attach the hard
drive to the primary DE connector and the CD-ROM to the secondary one. f you have
two hard drives, opinions vary. Some people will attach the hard drive to the secondary
connector, even though the much slower CD drive is there. Since CD accesses hap-
pen relatively infrequently, it won't stall access to the second drive, and the second
drive won't stall the boot drive. tend to attach fast devices to the primary connector
and slow drives (for example, a Zip drive and the CD) to the secondary connector. Just
make sure you have the drives configured for the correct master/slave jumper settings.
Your boot drive should always be the master drive on the primary DE connector.
Don't forget to attach the power connectors to the various drives.
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Now it's on to the expansion cards. First, plug in the AGP graphics card.
Now stop.
Plug in your keyboard and mouse. Attach the monitor to your VGA connector. Connect
a power cord to the power connector. Turn it on. f everything has gone well, you
should get the typical memory countdown (POST - power on self test). f you hear a
series of beeps, your graphics card isn't properly seated. f you get no power at all,
turn off the system. Disconnect all your drives and try again to reconnect them correct-
ly. f you can see a display this time when you turn on your machine, you got it right. t
also means you know that one of the drive connectors wasn't correctly connected.
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f you still don't see the POST message, go back through the system
and make sure everything is connected properly - especially the CPU and that
pesky soft power connector.
Once you get the system to power up properly, you can do one of two things. Either
you can install the operating system first, then install each expansion board (sound
card, 3dfx card, and so on) one at a time. Alternatively, you can install all the cards
and then install the operating system. The conservative approach is to install the oper-
ating system first, then add each card one at a time. After you've gained some experi-
ence, it's common to just pop everything in and install the drivers one set at a time.
Note that some systems with more than four PC slots may not assign an RQ to the
outside PC slot. So be wary of installing cards that require RQs in the outside slot.
Voodoo and Voodoo2 cards usually work well here because they don't use RQs.
nstalling these cards as well as all the other cards is basically the same as
described previously: insert the card (remember that PC cards typically face down)
and make sure it is properly seated. You can insert the card by carefully aligning the
card and slot and gently rocking it in until it is seated. Then, connect whatever extra
internal cabling is required.
f you install a 3dfx card, make sure you don't forget the pass-through cable in the
back.
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strongly recommend buying a full install version of the operating system if you're
building your own system. Your reseller of choice can legitimately sell you a copy of
Windows 95 OSR2.1 or 2.5 with a new motherboard/CPU combo. Get it.
The installation process generally is simple and straightforward; budget a portion of
time, say about an hour, before starting. Windows will scan the system for problems
before installing. Afterward, Windows will go through a series of steps, first in DOS
where the essentials will be installed, then in Windows, where programs, devices, and
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other goodies are added. Keep in mind that the system will ask to
reboot three or four times before the entire process is complete, which is fine.
Windows will keep track of where it is. Also, keep in mind that practically every-
thing done in the installation process is reversible later, one way or another.
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f you're installing Windows 95, there's one item you'll need with any Pentium system
- the PX4 patch. t's really just an .NF file that lets Windows properly enumerate the
hardware. t should be on a CD or floppy supplied with the motherboard. f it's not, it's
usually available on the motherboard maker's web site. f you don't install it, expect to
find a number of mysterious question marks in the device manager. For proper AGP
operation, you'll also need the USB supplement. On the OSR2.1 and 2.5 CDs, the
USB supplement is somewhere in the \other directory.
You may run into some headaches during installation, with device RQs not properly
assigned. You may have to tweak these in device manager. f you're installing
Windows 95 OSR2 or later, now is your golden opportunity to use FAT32.
Make sure you have all your driver disks handy - you'll need them.
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f you're installing Windows 98, most of these issues disappear. Windows 98's install
process is much easier, with more built-in drivers.
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f the information here seems too sketchy for you, there are several solutions. f you
still have the urge to build it all yourself, get any one of a number of books on the
topic. Since haven't read any of them, can't recommend any one in particular. Or, if
you have a tech-savvy friend, have him tutor you through your first system build.
Another good alternative is to get a bare-bones system. Find a vendor who sells the
motherboard you want. Buy the case, power supply, CPU, DRAM, and floppy drive
there. At that point, you can usually install the rest of the gear yourself.
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n 1988, bought a 386/20 system (a Jade Computer systems 386, for
you old timers). That was the last system bought. Since then, 've built or
upgraded my own systems. There's a certain freedom in picking and choosing your
favorite components and a real visceral satisfaction when a new system boots. The
flip side is that you get to be your own tech support, so make sure you're up to the
task. Still, if you're like me, you'll never look twice at an off-the-shelf system again.
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Do you have an old PC taking up closet space? Why not use it to create a home LAN,
so you can play games against your friends. And here is your opportunity to learn how
to do it.
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These days, when we think of multiplayer games,
we mostly think about the nternet. As anyone
knows who's actually tried playing over the
nternet, it's far from perfect. ssues like lag time
and server overload often make gameplay frus-
trating. Now, the nternet is the only place for
truly huge games like Warbirds, EverQuest, or
Ultima Online. But on the nternet, all things are
not created equal: Most games that support mul-
tiplayer typically max out at four, six, or eight
users.
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LAN Gaming
Up-Front Assumptions
The Hardware
Networking Software
Ministry of ProtocoI
InstaIIing the NIC
Setting Up Windows
TroubIeshooting
PIay WeII with Others
Then, there's the whole problem of anonymity. personally like to play
with people know - but even when with a group of relative strangers, like it
much better when it's up close and personal. Even high-speed video and audio
conferencing capabilities won't replace the banter and sneaky cooperation that goes
on in a small network game session.
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There are a number of ways to go about playing games over a LAN. f you're lucky,
you can do it at work (after hours, of course) or at school. f you're in the computer or
computer gaming industry, like me, you may have several computers sitting around. Or
maybe you recently upgraded, and you have that older computer taking up room in a
closet - just waiting to host a LAN party.
A LAN party can be something simple, like having your friends lug their systems over
to your house on a Saturday afternoon. Or it can be more elaborate, like a large group
renting a meeting room at a hotel and gaming its brains out over a weekend. One
thing for sure: the first time you do it, it's a mystery, and it will take you a large invest-
ment in time. Each time you do it, though, it takes less time. These days, given gear
and setups know, can bring up a six station peer-to-peer LAN in an hour or so, once
the computers themselves are up and running. How can something this potentially
complex be set up so quickly? t begins with assumptions.
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The first assumption is that the network at hand is going to be set up for gaming. 'm
not going to cover print servers, client-server networking, or building your own intranet.
'll be focusing strictly on Windows 95/98 peer-to-peer networking. t's the easiest type
of network to set up and supports the widest variety of network gameplay. Keep in
mind that nothing in a peer-to-peer network prevents the use of dedicated server soft-
ware (such as running a Quake dedicated server on one system). Don't confuse
game servers with application or storage servers. That is to say, you don't need a
dual-CPU NT advanced server to run a Quake server.
9Z
Since want to focus on the widest possible game support, 'm also not cover-
ing Linux or Mac gaming. (To those users, apologize - only have so much time
and space. Even so, would like to hear from anyone using non-Windows network-
ing, so can learn more.)
will, however, cover both PX and TCP/P, albeit not in depth. These are protocols
that facilitate communication between computers. Remember, the focus is on getting
up and running fast - it's the gameplay, dammit. won't cover DOS networking, either -
paid my dues setting up DOS networks, but 'd just as soon never revisit that topic,
thank you very much.
On the hardware side, the example show uses a 100baseT, twisted-pair ethernet net-
work with a hub. 've been watching the prices of 100-megabit gear drop, and 've
even found PC 100-megabit twisted-pair cards cheaper than 10-megabit SA coax
cards. (Don't sweat the jargon - we'll define things as we go along later.) Using twist-
ed-pair simplifies things if you often have people drop by. All they must do is plug into
the hub. However, almost anything show here applies to twisted-pair 10-megabit net-
works. also don't cover token ring or proprietary network setups. 'm also not going
into routers, switches, bridges, or other similar devices. We're building a home net-
work, folks, not a 500-workstation collaborative computing site.
At the end, 'll touch on a few connectivity alternatives that are emerging for home net-
works.
100 88f0N8f0
Each computer needs a NC - network interface card. These are made by a variety of
companies. n my own networks, 've used 3Com, ntel, and Netgear NCs. These
days, find myself using PC cards exclusively - SA cards, even the plug-and-play
variety - are often a headache to set up and slow things down.
9J
Here's an
exampIe of
PCI ethernet
hardware.
One really easy way to get into networking is to buy a starter kit. Quite a few compa-
nies offer network starter kits. Usually they pack in a small hub, cables, a pair of NCs,
driver disks, and a usually inadequate manual. Starter kits are often a very cost-effec-
tive way of getting started.
f you don't get a starter kit, you'll need a hub
and some category 5 twisted-pair cable.
Category 5 cable consists of four paired-wire
strands inside the insulating sheath, and it's
required for 100-megabit networks. (You can
find cables for 10-megabits that are cheaper,
but have only two wire pairs.) The connectors
are RJ-45 jacks and look like oversized tele-
phone jacks (for you US readers).
The type of network 'm discussing here is a
star-topology network. A hub (also called a
"concentrator") is the center of the star. The
network nodes (PCs) are all attached to the
hub. The network traffic travels from your PC
to the hub, then out to the other PC. Well,
that's a bit simplistic. n fact, what goes on is
that each network node has an address.
Data is sent out via small packets of informa-
tion. Each packet has the address of its
94
Here's what a four-pair, category
5 cabIe Iooks Iike inside.
One typicaI network starter kit.
destination. f a packet comes in with an incorrect address, it's rejected
by the system and stays alive until it finds the right system. n the old days,
people used to argue that star topologies were prone to failure because, if the cen-
tral node (the hub) failed, the whole network would go down. Hubs these days are so
reliable, this almost never happens.
Hubs vary in size and expense. 've seen four-port 100-megabit hubs recently for as
little as 60 bucks. f you want support for both 10-megabit and 100-megabit systems
on the same hub, there are dual-sensing hubs, but they cost a little more. An 8-port
dual-speed hub costs easily more than $200. Some network administrators will argue
that a bridge might be faster, but an 8-port 100-megabit bridge starts at $500 and goes
up from there. You also want to get an unmanaged hub. Again, you won't be configur-
ing network gear from a remote site, nor will you likely stack more than a pair of hubs
together. The focus here is for setting up a small network to play games.
Once the NCs are installed, you then
attach an RJ-45 jack to the socket on
the NC and the other end to a
matching socket on the hub. Repeat
that for all the systems on the net-
work. Note that if you are certain that
you'll only ever have two systems,
you can get special direct-connect
twisted-pair cables that actually
reverse a couple of wires. You can
then run the ethernet cable directly
from one NC to the one on the other
system.
80lN0fkl $0llN8f0
The good news is that all you need for local area network gaming is Windows 95/98
and the drivers for your NC. That's it. Between the built-in networking in Windows 9x
and DirectX, all you need for network gameplay is built into the operating system.
9
The IowIy hub - your key to pIaying
on a smaII network.
Nll8lf 0l Ff0l000l
Protocols are the basic methods that computers use to initiate communication and
transfer data. The main protocols we're concerned with are PX and TCP/P. These are
the mainstays in the networking world. PX was developed by Novell and is used in
Novell Netware as its primary protocol. TCP/P was the original networking protocol
developed by the Dept. of Defense for the original ARPANet. t's now the chief under-
lying method used in moving data around the nternet. (All this is to oversimplify some-
what, but it's good enough.)
NetBOS, an older protocol holdover from the DOS era, is occasionally useful.
NetBOS is used by a handful of games, so unless your game needs it, it's not
required. Most games stick with PX and TCP/P. Even games that are labeled
DirectPlay use the two primary protocols underneath DirectX's DirectPlay layer.
Let's see how the hardware and software layers come together as we install our net-
work.
l8l8lll l00 8l0
nstalling the hardware is pretty simple. Pop open the hood of your computer case,
find a free PC slot, and slide it in. Exceptionally small cards, like the ntel and 3Com
cards, can sometimes be a chore to insert between larger cards. Also, most good PC
cards are busmastering cards and require an RQ. So, if you have a system with more
than four PC slots, try to avoid putting the NC in the slot next to the SA slots.
Sometimes RQs aren't assigned to the last PC slot.
After installing the NC, you'll usually get a Device Found dialog box.
9
Click Next. If the wizard finds the driver location (usually a floppy), just click next;
otherwise, you must tell the device installation wizard the location of the driver folder.
'%
This is the NIC Device Found dialog box.
Finding the driver looks like this.
After the driver is installed, reboot the system. This will be the first of
several reboots.
Make sure you have your Windows 95 CD handy or the CAB files copied to you hard
drive for the following steps.
5AJJEC 7F 9E@MI
After the device driver is installed, bring up the network control panel. You'll probably
see a new entry for the NIC, along with a binding for TCP/IP. You probably had TCP/IP
installed for your Internet service provider logon, so the NIC was attached to TCP/IP
since it was present. Note that these are actually discrete settings - the NIC won't
interfere with your dial-up adapter. Also, make sure your Windows 95/98 setup files
are available because they may get accessed during the following steps.
However, there is a problem we want
to fix right away. You probably got a
DHCP error message because
Windows couldn't find a DHCP serv-
er. By default, Windows sets itself up
to dynamically allocated IP address-
es. Windows may also asked you,
"Do you want to see further DHCP
messages." Just click No. If you
clicked Yes, never fear. The message
will pop up again in a couple of min-
utes.
You want to set a hard IP address. If
you don't, you could see regular,
annoying pauses every few minutes.
It's particularly distracting in games.
Windows 98 and Winsock 2 (the
'&
Your network control panel at work.
Windows TCP/IP software) minimize this, but it's still better to have a
hard IP address. There are several ranges of IP addresses specifically reserved
for internal-only networks. Set the IP address in the TCP/IP property sheet (found
in the network control panel). The range I use is 192.168.0.xxx where xxx can vary
from 1 to 255. You should also set the subnet mask to 255.255.255.0.
Also, click on the
Advanced tab and check
the box at the bottom to
make TCP/IP the default
protocol. Enable file
sharing and print sharing
under the bindings tab. If
there's no file- and print-
sharing checkbox, you
can turn on file and print
sharing by adding that
service. (File and print
sharing are listed under
the service heading in
the Add dialog box).
Before rebooting, let's
set up IPX and the prop-
er logon method.
After setting the IP
address, click on the Add
button. Then click on
Protocol, then Add.
''
Use the TCP/IP property sheet to set
each computer's unique IP address.
Scroll down to the
Microsoft entry and click
on the IPX/SPX Compatible
Protocol line. Finally, click OK.
The IPX/SPX protocol appears in
the main network control panel,
network components list.
After installing the IPX
protocol, look at the net-
work components list.
There may be a binding
attaching IPX to your dial-
up adapter. If it's there,
remove it. If you don't
remove it, some games
may actually attempt to
dial out on your phone
line to find other IPX
nodes.
For LAN play, remove
the dial-up adapter to
prevent your game
from trying to dial out
in search of other
IPX nodes.
Adding Protocol.
Selecting Network Protocol.
sheet by double-clicking on the PX/SPX compatible protocol line. Note
that unless you exist as part of a Novell network, you don't need to make PX
the default. n fact, you don't even need to bind file and print sharing and the
Windows logon to PX. Go the bindings tab and remove the checkboxes there. When
you close it, you'll get a message asking you if you want to add bindings - just say no.
When you return to the Network control panel, you may also see Client for Novell
Networks. f so, highlight that entry and delete it. You may also see Client for Microsoft
Networks in the Primary Network Logon dialog. f this is just a home network, make it
Windows Logon. That way, you won't get a logon prompt every time you boot
Windows. (Windows 98 has a nifty "family logon" option that presents a nice list of
users, if you have several users on a network.)
Finally, you can click OK at the main Network control panel. Windows will load a lot of
stuff off the CD, then reboot.
Once you reboot, you get to do it all again - for all the other systems. After all, a net-
work with only one node isn't very useful.
Once you have Windows networking set up on all the systems, launch Network
Neighborhood. f everything has gone well, you will see the other systems. Note that
you can change the names any time in the Network control panel, under the
dentification tab.
101
Network savvy readers: you may question some of
these settings with good reason, but 've discovered by bit-
ter trial and error that games work best with these set-
tings. Note that these are not necessarily optimum for a
business network, depending on what that network uses.
80l0.
The results. On the C: drive -
the helping hand of file sharing
If you want to share files, just right click on the drive or folder, touch the
sharing button and specify how you want the drive or folders shared.
You'll see a change in the drive or folder icon.
The network is ready. Select Access Type to Full for
complete file sharing
1f000l08000ll
The singlemost prevalent problem with setting up a network like this is the initial driver
installation. The problems tend to vary, especially in regard to the ease of installation
from one company's drivers to the next. 've found ntel and 3Com to be quite easy to
work with. Netgear is another story: its current PC adapters use a chip made by
Digital Equipment; but unfortunately Windows may have installed a default driver for
the DEC chip. You must first remove it before installing the Netgear drivers.
Sometimes things just get hosed, and you must start over. The easiest way to start
over is to first delete the NC entry from device manager (which probably has one of
those annoying yellow ! symbols). Then, go to the \windows\inf or \windows\inf\other
folder and remove the .NF file for that adapter. Reboot, and you can start again.
Another problem that may occur is that the NC tries to grab an RQ being used by
something else. n Windows 98, it's often no problem, since Windows 98 handles RQ
sharing better than Windows 95. f this happens, you may have to move PC cards
around until you get a setup that works. (Unless you're know what you're doing, do not
try to assign individual RQs to PC slots manually in the BOS setup).
Sometimes, you seem to do everything right, and the systems just don't see each
other. f so, you can either painstakingly check every parameter of each protocol - or
simply remove the protocols and reinstall them. Oh, and make sure the RJ-45 jacks
are firmly seated at the NC end and the hub end.
As for games, it's been my general experience that TCP/P tends to be more stable
than PX, so if the game supports both, choose TCP/P. Networking is more complex
than a single-player game, so you will almost certainly run into situations where con-
nections get dropped (even on a LAN), or you get lockups. Usually - though not
always - this is the result of buggy networking code in the games. Sometimes, the NC
driver is the culprit. t's often very difficult to troubleshoot.
10J
Fl8 N0ll Nll0 0l00f8
Now, you should be set up and ready to go. Load up your game, choose the protocol
(if there's more than one), and play against something other than the computer. think
you'll find it a rewarding experience. Just remember, though, that your buddies may
cackle at you with glee when they frag you. At least computers don't gloat...
lM0fl 80M0
80lN0fkl ll0f8ll908
There are some alternatives to the traditional ethernet network, and they're aimed right
at the home market. They use several different methods to let the hardware communi-
cate. Note that in all these cases, once the hardware is installed, you still set up
Windows the same way.
One method uses the power lines in your house. That's right, you can use the good
old 115VAC outlet as a network transport. 'll be taking a look at this in the near future,
but if you want to get a sneak peek, go to:
http://www.inteIogis.com
ntelogis claims its Passport networking system gets up to 384KB per second - not
quite as fast as even a 10Mbit ethernet, but certainly fast enough for gaming.
There are several companies that want to do small networks through the USB connec-
tors on the back of newer systems. Of course, with all the people soon to be plugging
in USB components - from speakers to joysticks - it's unclear what the bandwidth will
really be. Still, USB is on most new systems. However, most systems only have two
USB ports, so it looks like the stock of companies that make USB hubs may be good
picks.
104
Another alternative is wireless networking. Again, there are a number of play-
ers, most unannounced. Still, it's an attractive thought. However, the range will be
limited. We will fervently hope that the wireless networks don't interfere with anything
around the house, like your TV, your phone, your pacemaker....
Finally, several companies are offering network kits that use the existing phone wiring
in your house for networking. Using frequencies not taken by telephones, there won't
be any interference. However, you do need phone jacks in the rooms that have com-
puters. As you know, this is usually the case, but not always.
10
k0Nl000 I80 8 000 J0 08f0l l8 0N0f
One of the most frequently asked hardware questions is, "Which 3D graphics card
should get?" As you will discover, the answer depends on what kind of system you
have and what kind of games you like to play. And Loyd is here to help you get the
right card. Then, when you've got your upgrade, check out Chapter 9: nstalling Your
Graphics Card.
N0l00 l8 808lF
Easily the most common e-mail request get
is, "What 3D graphics card should get?" This
is closely followed by, "Which 3D card is the
best?"
wish the answer was simple, but it's not, and
it depends on a host of factors. Do you have
an older, Pentium-based system? Maybe you
have an early Pentium (266 or 300MHz)? Or
perhaps that spanking new P/550 is on
10
008l0f 8
J0 6f80l08 N8kl
l00 8l0l 000l00
What Do You PIay?
Pentium Systems without AGP
Pentium Pro Systems
Existing Pentium II and
Pentium III AGP Systems
Upgrade Choices
The SLI Question
Buying a New System
Socket 7 AGP
Pentium III Upgrades
Future Tense
order? Are you eyeing a K6-2 upgrade, complete with a socket 7 AGP
motherboard? Are you buying a brand new system? What games do you play?
All these issues shape the answer to the question, "Which card to buy?" 'm going
to try to tackle that question here, if only to reduce the amount of e-mail get. 'm
also going to cover how to add a card to your system, once you buy one.
N08l 00 f00 Fl8F
This is not a trivial question. f most of your time is spent in Panzer General or
Starcraft, you might not need the hottest new 3D card. f you're frustrated at how slow
the Jane's World War Fighters demo is running on your system, then it may be time
to upgrade.
t's always smart look at what your needs are before letting the industry hype machine
shape your judgement. t's very easy to get carried away by all the excitement of a
great new technology - 'm certainly guilty of that on occasion. f you get talked into
adding that Voodoo2 card, and you find yourself mostly playing Railroad Tycoon , you
have just added a pretty expensive doorstop to your computer. The bottom line: think,
then upgrade.
Even all 3D games are not created equal. Flight sims have different needs than first-
person shooters, and a 3D strategy game like Myth may be different still. Of course,
if you're heavily into 3D games, read on. This focuses on finding the right answer for
your 3D acceleration needs.
10
For a quick comparative shop, check out
Appendix A: Creating the Ultimate Game Machine.
80l0.
F0ll0M $8l0M8
Nll000l 6F
AGP stands for accelerated graphics port and is a connection for graphics cards used
on most Pentium / systems, Xeon-based systems, and a growing number of K6-2/3
systems. However, there are still a lot of Pentium systems out there without AGP slots.
You do not need an AGP system to get a good 3D accelerator.
The right 3D accelerator for your Pentium system may not be a graphics card at all,
but a new CPU. f you have anything slower than a Pentium 133 - and a 133 is border-
line - a CPU upgrade may be in order. (The same is true for Cyrix 6x86 customers as
well - this CPU just doesn't have enough horsepower for the newer set of 3D games.)
CPU upgrades are beyond the scope of this chapter. n the meantime, you can check
out Chapter 5, Appendix A, or Powerleap.com (www.powerleap.com) for some inter-
esting options.
f you have a Pentium 166 or better and are happy with your existing primary (2D)
graphics card, the easiest thing to do is to upgrade to Voodoo2. Now, Voodoo2 won't
buy you a lot of performance difference over Voodoo Graphics in a Pentium 166, but
with the prices of Voodoo2 boards are dropping faster than the Moscow stock market -
and you'll have a decent accelerator to carry over to your next system.
f your system is saddled with a poor 2D card, you might consider replacing it with a
2D/3D card. A lot depends on your budget here. f you have a tight budget, a board
using the 3dfx Voodoo3 chipset might be the answer. The new Voodoo3/2000 is avail-
able in PC format as well as AGP. t doesn't render in 32-bit color or support 32-bit z-
buffer, but your CPU horsepower probably wouldn't support that anyway.
f you have a bigger budget, you have a couple of choices: buy a fast 2D/3D card and
a Voodoo2 card or buy a Voodoo3 board and save up for your next system upgrade. f
you plan to move to an AGP system in the next six to nine months, then buying a
108
high-performance PC 2D/3D accelerator may just be wasted cash. A
Voodoo3/2000 board goes for close to $100 (even less than $100, in some cases),
and it's a good deal.
F0ll0M Ff0 $8l0M8
Much of what wrote about Pentium systems in the previous section applies to
Pentium Pros. However, most Pentium Pro systems shipped with relatively decent 2D
cards, so adding Voodoo2 may be the right thing here. The faster floating-point unit of
the Pentium Pro is capable of feeding the 3dfx card polygons at a faster rate than a
Pentium-based system.
lKl8ll F0ll0M ll 80
F0ll0M lll 6F $8l0M8
The Pentium has been around long enough now that some of the early AGP cards
are showing signs of age. t may be time to upgrade your AGP card. However, this
may not always be as easy as you'd like.
Although it uses some of the same low-level protocols as the PC bus, to think of it as
an extension of PC would be a mistake. For one thing, it's a direct connection to the
processor bus, whereas the PC bus is shielded from the processor bus. AGP's base
speed is 66MHz, which can move data at about 256MB per second. t also has a 2x
mode, which boosts performance to 133MHz or about 512MB per second. Another
feature is sideband addressing, which lets memory addresses be transferred separate-
ly from data, speeding things up a bit. One of the side effects is that you can only have
a single AGP port in a system today. t's possible that ntel may change this in future
versions of AGP, but the way it stands today, you cannot have more than one AGP
109
card in a system. One other note: AGP 1.0 and AGP 2x are the same thing. The
AGP 1.0 specification has in it the capability to do 2x transfers. AGP 2.0 will handle
4x transfers, but it will be the second half of 1999 before we see AGP 2.0 systems.
There is one insidious problem, though, if you have an AGP graphics chip that is sol-
dered to your motherboard. n a word: You are simply out of luck as far as upgrading
AGP graphics. There's no AGP slot to plug an AGP card into these systems. The only
route in this case is Voodoo2.
f you have a graphics card in your AGP slot, though, it's not necessarily time to
replace it. t depends on what the card is. There are a number of AGP graphics cards
using chips that don't take advantage of AGP features, like sideband addressing, AGP
texturing and 2x speeds. Some are no more than glorified PC cards, although they
may still be quite capable 3D accelerators. For example, the Rendition V2200 is a
decent 3D accelerator chip, but isn't really an AGP part at all. Other cards aren't very
capable 3D cards, like the Matrox Millenium . f you have a Rendition, Number Nine
Revolution, or Matrox Millenium AGP cards, you might consider replacing them with
a more current card (we'll discuss choices in the next section).
There are a number of chips that shipped in the last year capable of more advanced
AGP operations, but limited to 1x (66MHz) speed. These include the original RVA 128
and the Permedia 2. They also lack some key texture blending modes that have
become popular with more current games.
There were also a couple of early AGP 2x parts, including AT's Rage Pro and, later,
the Nvidia RVA 128ZX and ntel i740. All these chips lack performance by current
standards, though they are perfectly good for less demanding games, and all coexist
well with Voodoo2 boards.
110
0f800 000l008
n the case of an existing AGP system with a 300MHz processor or slower, the
choices become more complex.
f your existing primary card offers at least decent performance, adding a Voodoo2
card is probably the way to go. t's not so much that Voodoo2 is that much faster -
rather, it's the library of existing 3D games that are only accelerated by 3dfx. These
are getting fewer over time, but there's still a number of games that only use 3dfx's
proprietary Glide AP for 3D acceleration. There are also Direct3D games that are
tuned to run better on 3dfx boards (for example, games that use 8-bit palletized tex-
tures). However, if you've got a Voodoo2 card and are interested in a speedier primary
card, there are several choices, depending on your interests. f flexibility of features is
important, consider either the Matrox Millenium G400, or if you're really into video, the
AT All-n-Wonder 128. You can add interesting features like hardware DVD - right onto
the graphics card. The good news is that all the chip vendors are shipping OpenGL
CDs now. While performance varies, at least you won't be completely left out.
The Millenium G400Max is a turbocharged version of the G400 and is quite fast.
Matrox still has some work cut out before its OpenGL implementation is as fast as the
competition, but it's coming along.
Voodoo3 offers the widest range of compatibility due to its support of 3dfx's Glide AP,
but Glide-only applications are rapidly becoming a thing of the past. t's very fast in 16-
bit, 3D gaming, which accounts for most games that are currently shipping; however
its performance in future games with 32-bit source art or high polygon counts is uncer-
tain.
The current darling are boards using the Nvidia RVA TNT2 chip. The TNT2 supports
32MB of RAM, high clock speeds, 32-bit rendering, 32-bit z-buffer, and other goodies.
This means that, like Voodoo2, the TNT can do multitexture rendering in a single pass.
n fact, RVA TNT2 boards run most Direct3D and OpenGL games faster than even
Voodoo2 SL. The 2D performance is good enough that it's worth considering
111
upgrading for that alone. There are two types of TNT2 boards: standard
and Ultra. Boards with standard TNT2 chips typically come with just a heat sink
on the board. TNT2 Ultra chips ship at much higher clock speeds and usually have
an onboard fan.
Other choices include S3's Savage4. Performance doesn't match up with either TNT2
or Voodoo3, but you can get 32MB boards for less than $140, and the OpenGL per-
formance is surprisingly good.
100 $ll 008ll0
One question get asked a lot is, "Do replace my existing AGP card, or do get a
second Voodoo2 card?"
f you have an existing Voodoo2 card, adding a second Voodoo2 card is an option that
no other vendor offers. The two cards must be identical - the same manufacturer and
the same memory configuration. (The exception, for tech-savvy users, is that if you
use 3dfx reference drivers, almost any reference board design can be mated with
another one.) The two boards split the 3D rendering chores between them - in
essence, each board renders every other scan line (row of pixels), hence the term
scan line interleave (SL).
t's difficult to speak for anyone else, but my inclination has been to first replace my
primary card with a RVA TNT2 board. Then, if had some spare cash, 'd consider
adding a second Voodoo2 card. After all, if you already have Voodoo2, you have
access to all the 3dfx-only games already. A TNT2 Ultra with 32MB of local memory is
a more compelling upgrade to me than a second Voodoo2 card. t will outperform SL
in OpenGL and Direct3D games; and the single Voodoo2 can still handle Glide games
nicely.
On a PC only system, adding the second Voodoo2 will let you run at up to 1,024x768
- though your actual frame rate may not go up. Having two pixel engines and four tex-
ture mapping units make for a brute force solution that's pretty damned fast. t's still
11Z
limited to 1,024x768 and won't render to 32-bit final output, but most
games don't take advantage of 32-bit color yet anyway. Bear in mind that a pair
of Voodoo2 cards generate a fair amount of heat, so make sure you have ade-
quate cooling in your system. Also, some systems may not have a power supply
capable of handling dual Voodoo2 cards. Many off-the-shelf systems from major ven-
dors like Dell, Compaq, and Gateway only have 200 watt power supplies. So be care-
ful about adding twin Voodoo2 cards to those systems - or consider upgrading the
power supply.
80l 8 80N $8l0M
OK, you've been bitten by the new system bug. You plan on either buying a whole new
system or radically upgrading your current one with an AGP motherboard transplant
and a new CPU. Which graphics card is for you? Like so many things in life, it
depends.
$00k0l 6F
Users on a tight budget, or those simply wanting an alternative to ntel, now have an
alternative. The K6-2 isn't the fastest kid on the block, but it's reasonably priced and
will certainly give you a big performance boost over an older, slower Pentium.
However, there's a dark cloud wrapped around that silver lining.
The problems most people have had don't revolve around the K6-2 as much as the
motherboards. So-called super 7 motherboards mate an industry standard Socket 7
CPU socket and AGP through the used of chipsets from ALi (Aladdin V), Via (MVP3),
and others. The problem is that these companies don't have the huge testing infra-
structure of an ntel, so when the chipsets hit the streets, they haven't always been
thoroughly wrung out.
get a lot of mail from readers who have had problems with installing new graphics
cards in a socket 7 AGP motherboard. They usually start out something like, " can't
get my TNT / G200 / ntel 740 board to work in my K6-2 system."
11J
The problem is that most socket 7 AGP boards don't handle AGP 2x cards very well.
ALi has recently released a new driver for its chipset that, according to readers, seem
to have fixed the problem. The same is true for Via. Newer drivers from 3dfx and
Nvidia support AMD's 3DNow!, improving 3D performance across the board.
The bottom line is that Socket 7 AGP systems using the AMD K6-2 are often cost-
effective alternatives to ntel-based systems. But tread warily when buying AGP graph-
ics cards and make sure that the vendor can support AGP 2x.
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The hot ticket in terms of raw performance are systems with the 440BX chipset and a
500, 550, or 600MHz Pentium . The 440BX chipset fully supports AGP 2x transfers
and other features. Most let you tweak features like the AGP aperture and write com-
bining.
f you're buying a 450MHz or faster system, you should definitely look into one of the
third generation, true AGP graphics cards for your primary card. The RVA TNT2 is the
performance king today, but there are several boards (such as the Millenium
G400Max) not far behind.
One question often get is whether Voodoo2 is necessary if you just got a spanking
new 550 with a TNT2 board. The answer is a qualified yes, if you're a serious gamer.
There are still a number of older compelling games that only support 3dfx for 3D accel-
eration. And a fair number of Direct3D games simply run better on 3dfx currently
because the developer has used features that work better on 3dfx (8-bit palletized tex-
tures come to mind). And Voodoo2 boards have dropped to less than $100, so it's not
as expensive as you might think.
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3D graphics accelerators are advancing faster than just about any other PC technol-
ogy today. t's staggering to think that the RVA TNT chip has more than 7 million tran-
sistors on board - about the same as the Pentium . The next generation will be even
more capable. Remember, though, that the purpose is to create an immersive game
experience. Upgrade only when necessary - usually when a new game really bogs
down the current graphics card. Read GameSpot and Computer Gaming World; we'll
cover what's hot and what's not in the 3D world.
11
For a quick comparative shop, check out
Appendix A: Creating the Ultimate Game Machine.
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Whether you finally sprang for a 3D accelerator or got one as a gift, you're probably
wondering how to get the thing into your computer, so you can play all those cool 3D-
accelerated games. Loyd tells you how to crack your case, install your card, and get it
running.
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OK, you read Chapter 8: 3D Graphics Cards -
Making the Right Choice, maybe dabbled
around in Appendix A, bit the bullet, and bought
a new accelerator. Or maybe you got one as a
gift, and it's lying unopened on your shelf, beck-
oning to you. But you've resisted its blandishments, even regarded it with dread.
You've heard about all the nightmares that can occur when you install a new card, and
you're system is running fine, thank you. Sure, Quake II is running at 12fps, but, hey,
it's stable.
I can't promise to remove all the headaches, but if you read this chapter, you'll at least
encounter a minimum of headaches. We'll start with the general guidelines, then go
through the process of actually installing a Voodoo2 card and the primary card.
11
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Before You Start
Popping Open the Case
Adding Voodoo2
Replacing the Primary Card
Troubleshooting Tips
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Have the right tools handy, including a Philips-head screwdriver and something to pick
up a screw if you drop it in the case. Make sure you have your Windows installation
disk as well. f you have a game with DirectX 6.0 or a DirectX SDK CD lying around,
make sure that's handy. Give yourself some space and make sure you can constantly
ground yourself. Better yet, use an anti-static strap. Simply go to a Radio Shack or
computer shop and pick up an anti-static grounding strap. Make sure you attach it to
the chassis of the computer. f you can't get a grounding strap, you can ground your-
self frequently by either touching the metal computer chassis or some other grounded
device.
Also, if you've got an AGP system and are upgrading to a recent generation card
(RVA TNT, Banshee, or AT Rage 128), you might consider upgrading to Windows 98
if you haven't already done so. Most of the following directions revolve around
Windows 98. However, will touch on a few Windows 95 specifics. won't be covering
Windows NT, Linux, or other alternative operating systems here.
also won't cover every possible iteration of card connections. For example, Voodoo2
cards generally connect to a primary (2D/3D) card via a passthrough cable; the display
is then connected to the Voodoo2 card. Some cards (Canopus) use a reverse
passthrough scheme. f you just got one of those cards, consult the Canopus manual
for connecting up the card. Connector types may vary; Canopus' passthrough is a
DN-style connector, not a 15-pin male connector. Quantum3D uses still another
passthrough style that works well, but 'm going to cover the standard connector, which
will take care of 90 percent of the cards out there.
11
To all you observant readers: you may notice that
my choice for swapping primary cards is a little odd. t's
only an example and not an editorial statement.
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Let's take a look at a typical motherboard layout.
Here's the guts of an InteI SE440BX motherboard. Note the AGP
sIot on the right. It's offset from the PCI sIots.
f you're adding, upgrading, or replacing a primary graphics card in a Pentium ,
Pentium or K6-2 system, it's very likely that the new card will go into the AGP slot.
Most Voodoo2 cards go into the PC slot, though Quantum3D does make an AGP
Voodoo2 card.
00l 00000Z
Adding a Voodoo2 card is about the easiest hardware installation you can do.
However, it still means opening your case and installing drivers. Additionally, there are
issues involved if you are upgrading over a Voodoo Rush or Voodoo Graphics card.
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f you do have Voodoo Rush or Voodoo Graphics, try uninstalling the drivers. f
there's no uninstall procedure, you may still be OK - most of the more recent
Voodoo2 drivers have a built-in utility that searches your system for old drivers. t's
usually under a button labeled Utility in the Voodoo2 card's control panel.
The vast majority of Voodoo2 cards are added into PC slots. Here's a typical Voodoo2
card.
Note the two connectors. You attach your monitor to one connector.
The passthrough cabIe runs from the other connector to your 2D/3D card.
You slip the Voodoo2 card into a free PC slot. Pay close attention to whatever hard-
ware is next to the Voodoo2 card - particularly the 3dfx chip side of the board.
Voodoo2 chips can run pretty hot when the action is heavy, so you don't want anything
very heat sensitive there.
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If you plan on installing Voodoo2 SLI, make sure you connect the short SLI cable
between the two cards. Screw down the mounting brackets.
After installing the Voodoo2 card, the back of the case may look a little like this.
The actual location of the connectors may differ, though.