THE PIPPIE TENDER

Mike Waller Yacht Design

PO Box 383 Morayfield
Brisbane, Qld, Australia
www.wallerdesign.com.au


INTRODUCTION
The Pippie Tender is a simple little boat intended for use as a tender for a larger vessel. It is
designed for 1 2 people, and can be easily constructed by one person without any special
skills.
The Pippie Tender is a derivation of our Pippie Trainer, a sailing version designed specifically
for young children learning to sail. The Tender can be upgraded to the Trainer at any stage,
however if you want to sail, it is easier to obtain the Trainer version of the plans and at least
install the centerboard case right from the word go. The center board, rudder and rig can be
added at any time later.
The Pippie Tender can be built from three (3) sheets of plywood (2 x 6mm sheets and 1 x 9mm
sheet) including the very simple jig that is used to construct it. All ply sheets are 1200mm x
2400mm in size and should be marine plywood.
You will notice that there are plenty of small tenders around which can be built from 1 or 2
sheets of ply. Do not compare the Pippie to these. The Pippie is more strongly constructed and
will last much longer if properly built.

The weight of the boat will vary depending on the type of ply used, but with medium weight
ply should not exceed 45Kg. Heavier ply, such as Hoop Pine, will be a little heavier.

DISCLAIMER
Note that this plan is a free giveaway. As such, the designer is not able to offer any support to
the builder (for obvious reasons), however this plan provides more than enough information
to fully construct the boat. It is recommended that a good book be purchased on the subject of
wood / epoxy boat construction, with particular reference to stitch / glue and tack / tape
construction.
Recommended books are:
The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction (Gougeon Brothers)
Build the New Instant Boats (Harold Dynamite Payson)
Devlins Boat Building (Sam Devlin)

These plans have been carefully prepared, however the designer can take no responsibility for
any amateur built boat built to these plans.


VIEWING AND PRINTING THIS E- PLAN

This document is in PDF format and can be viewed directly on your computer. This may be adequate
for reading the text portions of the document, however for viewing the drawings and obtaining quotes
etc you will want to print the document. This can be done on any good quality laser or ink jet printer.

If you do not have a good quality printer (smaller, cheaper, home laser printers may not do the best job
with the fine lines of the drawings), you can take the file to many printing shops (on a USB memory
stick) and they will print it for you at a reasonable cost. Most Printers now print from PDF files.

If printing at home, make sure you have your printer set at best quality print, to ensure that the fine lines
of the drawings are as clear as possible. They are drawn fine deliberately to provide quality of detail.
Drawings are also set with narrow page margins, and on some printers you may receive a message
advising that the documents content is outside the default margin settings for the printer. If asked to
proceed, you should answer yes.

Always ensure that your printer is set to A4 paper size

This document may be viewed and printed, but may not be edited or altered in any way.


BUILDING NOTES.

This boat is built in a series of fairly easy and straightforward steps.

STEP 1 MARK OUT AND CUT THE PANEL COMPONENTS

You will find a general guide for laying out the panels on the sheets of plywood on sheet #3 of
the drawings. The actual dimensions for each panel are given on sheets #4, #5, #6, #7, #8, and
#9 The easiest way is to cut out all your panels first and then assemble the boat. The following
points are worth noting

1. On sheet 4 of the plans you will notice that the shapes for the bilge panels are
indicated but no dimensions for these panels are actually given. One of the main
problems with the tack and tape method of construction is that human error can creep
in fairly easily if you are not careful, so it is unlikely that a precut bilge panel (which is
the last to be fitted) will be a precise fit. This is easily overcome. Just cut ply strips
310mm in width, and later on during construction, you can simply lay the ply over the
gap between bottom and topside panels, tape / weight it down so that it holds the
shape, and then mark the inside with a pencil. This will give you the exact required
panel shape, which you can then cut out.

2. On sheet 5 the bottom panel is cut as a single unit. Once you have the general shape, the
slot which extends about halfway along the panel centerline from the front can be cut.
This is easily marked with a flexible batten and then cut with a fine saw blade (a jig saw
or a hacksaw blade in a holder). The slot is 7mm wide at the forward end, but reduces
to a single cut from a point 1850mm from the aft end.

3. Transom panels should be cut first then beveled before assembly. Because the ply is
very thin (9mm) and the bevels are very small, the join of hull panels to transoms are
unlikely to be perfect, but thanks to the gap filling qualities of epoxy they will be fine if
close enough.

4. The seat top panels on sheet # 8 are as per the plan drawings. Again, because of the
possibility of small variations creeping in during construction, you may wish to cut
these a little over sized at the ends, and fit them more precisely whilst installing.

5. When the front seat back panel is fitted, you will see that the front top corner of the jig
projects above the edge of the panel. The top corners must be trimmed off otherwise
they will interfere with fitting the bilge panels


STEP # 02 - CONSTRUCT THE BUILDING JIG

This boat is built on a simple jig. This is necessary because the tack and tape method requires
the hull to be built over its own bulkheads (in this case the seat panels), unlike stitch and glue
which does not require a jig at all for small boats. Tack and tape is however much easier than
stitch and glue, and the method allows for much better control over the hull shape.
The jig is 4 simple panels of 9mm ply (Sheet #9). Cut them out and assemble them as shown on
the plan drawing. Note:
1. The long side panels are stiffened with a 31mm x 31mm timber brace along the bottom
edge on the outer side. This stiffens the panel and allows you to clamp the jig to a
couple of saw horses. Make sure you do this on a dead flat surface to ensure the side
panels are straight. Join the panels with 19mm x 19mm cleats in the corners.

2. Fit a couple of diagonal braces across the top to make sure the jig stays square. Make
sure the assembly is done on an absolutely flat surface and that the box is absolutely
square to start with.

3. The slots in the top edges of the panel sides are to hold the seat panels over which the
hull is assembled. These panels are 6mm thick, so the slots should also be 6m wide. The
slots should be a reasonably tight push fit, but if they are a bit wide the seat panels can
be secured with dry fitted timber blocks etc. (It is critical that the panels be fitted
accurately and securely so they do not move during construction.)

4. Note that the aft end of the jig is sloping. The aft transom panel will be fitted to this
later. The forward seat panel sits in a little lip at the forward end of the jig.


STEP #03 FIT SEAT PANELS AND AFT TRANSOM

The seat panels are fitted into their respective slots on the jig. You should have centerlines
drawn on each of your seat panels and transoms (always mark your main reference lines on all
panels) so these can be used as a guide.
Stretch a string down the exact centerline of the jig, from the mid positions on each jig end
panel (run it under the diagonal braces) and use this as a guide. A secondary back up is to
draw lines parallel to the centerline on each seat panel and 300mm out on either side. If your
jig is square then these lines should align with the outside of the jig side panels once the panel
is installed. Dont permanently secure the panels at this stage ( use small clamps etc if they are
not tight fits in the slots)
The aft transom panel should be installed by simply clamping it to the back side of the jig aft
panel. Fit the transom panel so that its lowest edge (the actual transom top) is 11 12mm
above the bottom corner of the side panels, but again, just clamp it. You may need to adjust it
later.
The forward seat panel sits in a slight notch at the front end of the jig, and is simply clamped
or screwed to the front panel of the jig. Not that the top front corners of the jig must be
trimmed away so as not to interfere with fitting the bilge panels.

NOTE# All those edges of the seat panels (but not the transoms) which will
come in contact with hull panels must at this stage be taped with plastic tape.
This is to prevent them being accidentally glued into the hull, as they must be
removed later to allow the inside seams of the hull shell to be glass taped.

STEPS #4 and #5 FIT TOPSIDE AND BOTTOM PANELS, AND BOW TRANSOM
These steps are treated together here because you can do them in any order, and you may wish
to do the bottom panel first if your transverse seat panels are not all that secure. It is easier
however, to do the topsides first, so make sure your seat panels are correctly aligned
transversely, and secured.
TOPSIDE PANELS
It will be easier if you have a couple of willing hands to help here. With someone holding the
front end up and in, secure the aft edge to the topside edge of the aft transom. Because the
transom is 9mm thick, you can do this with small thin screws and packaging tape. Dont glue
it at this stage.
Next, bend the bilge panels around the seat panels and secure them to the seat panels. Secure
the bilge panels to the topside edges of the seat panels so that the topside / bilge edge of each
panel (the uppermost edge on set up) is aligned with the topside chine angle on the panels.
Because the play is thinner here, screws are difficult, but small thin brad nails can be used to
tack them on (dont drive them right in) and once fitted, the panels can be secure to the seat
panels with dry timber cleats and screws inside if necessary.
It is best to do both panels together, but as long as you dont use glue on anything you can
easily make adjustments if something gets out of wack.

BOW TRANSOM
The bow transom is free floating. Fix it with dry screws and tape to the leading edge of one of
the topside panels, then draw the two sides together and secure the other topside to the bow
transom. Because the side panels are predefined in shape, the whole thing should come
together within acceptable limits. This will be confirmed when the bottom panel is fitted.
To make sure that everything stays together at this stage, thoroughly tape up the joins between
the topside panels and the transoms.

BOTTOM PANEL
Start the bottom panel at the aft transom, and just secure it with some tape. Bend it forward
over the seat panels to the paint where the forward panel slot begins.

If your seat panels are correctly set up then the edges of the bottom panel should
line up exactly with the lower chine angles on each seat panel. If they dont then
either your panels are out of transverse alignment of you have not cut your panels
accurately. Adjust as necessary until it is right.

Holding both pieces of the bottom panel front end (either side of the slot) bend the front end of
the panel down until it fits to the forward transom. The panel will warp slightly as you pull it
in to the bottom panel edges of the forward transom. If the fit to the forward transom is not
precise, just move the transom a little until it fits.
Once you are sure everything fits and is square, remove the bottom panel and re-fit it using
epoxy glue to secure it to the transoms only. The seat panels must remain unglued. At this
stage you must secure the slot along the front of the bottom panel. The join should be
reasonably close, with only a narrow slot all the way along. Place as much packaging tape as
necessary along the slot to hold the slot sides in tightly. As long as the slot is no more than a
few millimeters wide it is OK. If you find the slot will not stay closed with tape, insert the odd
wire stitch wherever needed (to be removed later of course.)
Once the bottom panel is secured, remove the topside panels and re- fit them with glue at the
transoms only.
The main body of your structure is now complete and should be fairly stable. Dont panic if it
isnt accurate to the millimeter in all dimensions no hand built boat ever is!

STEP #06 MARK OUT AND CUT THE BILGE PANELS

As mentioned earlier, it is unlikely that precut panels would fit accurately here due to the
method of construction. The way around this is to just cut strips from the ply sheet and lay
them down over the hull shell so that they cover the gap between topside and bottom panels.
Secure the panel with tape and weights to hold it down onto the hull.
Mark the ends on the outside of the transoms and along the inside of the topside and bottom
panels. You can then remove the panel and cut to shape. Make sure you do each bilge panel
separately as they are unlikely to be the exact same shape (even though the boat is identical on
both sides).

STEP #07 FIT AND SECURE THE BILGE PANELS

The bilge panels should now fit pretty neatly into place, since they were specifically cut to fit.
Fit them just as for the other panels, with glue to the transoms and taping across the chine
seams wherever necessary to hold the panels in place and shape.
If there is a hard spot along a seam (which there should not be, since you marked to shape) just
run a hack saw blade along it to clean it up.
SECURING THE HULL PANELS
This is where it gets interesting. The panels are secured with thickened epoxy glue (pre made
or home made with epoxy resin and fillers) and this begins with what is called dollop
securing. At intervals along each chine seam, on the outside of the hull shell, squeeze a dollop
of glue into the slight V of the seam. Once you have done this along all 4 seams and allowed
the dollops to dry and cure a little, the hull shell is now secure and your packaging tape can be
removed from the hull.








STEP #08 FILL THE CHINE SEAMS

The first step here is to carefully tape the insides of the hull seams to prevent glue running
through the gaps and away. If you have help you can carefully lift the shell of the jig and turn
it over for this, but be very careful as the shell is still relatively unstable. If you choose to do
this, leave the outer securing tape on until you are finished with the inside taping.
Otherwise, the inside can be taped by carefully taping over the seams between the seat panels.
The tape needs to be fitted right into the angle (see sheet #13) to be effective.
Once the taping is done, turn the shell back over and trowel glue into the full length of each
chine seam. Once the glue has gone off a little, sand it back so that the chine is smooth and
slightly rounded.

NOTE# Before you fit the dollops or fill the seams it is essential to coat the full
length of each seam with epoxy resin. You dont need to do the whole hull shell at
this stage, but it is essential to seal the ply edges inside the chine seams. If you do
not do this, the dry timber will suck resin out of your epoxy glue, making the glue,
and hence the chine, weaker.

Once the seams are completed, you are ready to sheath the outside of the hull

STEP #09 SHEATH THE HULL EXTERIOR

There are many of these little ply dingys that omit this step, but lets face it, if you dont want
your tender to be torn to shreds every time you beach it you will need this.
The hull sheathing is simply 200 gsm woven glass cloth. Other than securing the outside of the
chines the sheathing is not strictly structural. For this reason it can be laid transversely, and it
is not critical that the joins between cloth panels be overlapped. Make sure however that they
are tightly butted, as the cloth also acts as the external tape for the chine seams.
If you intend your tender for some hard knocks it is recommended you be a bit more secure
about it, albeit at the expense of greater work required. In this case you might like to run
50mm wide glass cloth along each seam before you sheath the hull.
Another alternative, and a preferable one for a boat intended for hard knocks, is to lay the
glass panels lengthways, with a join along the centerline. Trim the glass at the gunwales later.
This creates unbroken sheathing along the chines and with less fairing, but will use up a bit
more glass. You cat use the remnant to cut tapes for the interior work later.
Laying the glass cloth is straight forward. Coat the entire outside of the hull with epoxy resin
and allow it to go a little tacky. This will hold your glass in place while you work on it. Lay the
cloth onto the hull and thoroughly wet out. Once the resin has started to go off, trim the
gunwale edges etc .
At the transoms, the glass should be run over the edges and about 50 mm onto the transoms.
Sheath each transom first, and run the bottom sheathing over the joins. The transoms will
require a bit of fairing later. Add a bit more resin anywhere you think it needed to fill weave
or where the cloth appears resin starved.
Lastly, use epoxy filler to fair anywhere it is necessary (tape joins and overlaps).

STEP #10 FIT AND SHEATH THE SKEG.

The skeg is in two parts, the skeg itself and the hardwood keel plate along its bottom edge.
The skeg is simply cut to shape by sitting the timber over the inverted hull shell and marking
the bottom panel curve onto the timber. Then cut to shape and glue it to the bottom panel.
The keel plate is simply glued to the top of the skeg timber. Not that at the forward end there
is a slight curve and you might need to cut a few kerfs into the strip to make it curve neatly.
Also the hull bottom starts to V here so make sure the plate strip is well bedded. Secure the
plate with a few screws.
Run good and large fillets of high density epoxy filler along both sides of the skeg to round out
the corner and then clean it up.
Lastly, the skeg must be sheathed with two layers of 200 gsm glass cloth, extending at least
50mm onto the hull bottom on each side. Finish as for the sheathing of the hull.
You can now turn your shell over to work on the interior.






STEP # 11 FILLET AND TAPE THE CHINE SEAM INTERIORS

Remove the shell from the jig, turn it over and remove the seat panels. Before you do this
carefully mark with a pencil the exact location of each seat panel as you will be re-installing
them later. Coat the entire inside surface of the boat with epoxy resin.
Remove the tape from the interior of each chine seam. If you did your taping correctly and
well there should be a minimum of clean up from epoxy seeping through from outside.
Run a nice wide fillet of epoxy filler along each seam inside the boat (chines and transoms), to
fill any gaps and round out the angles. Lay 75mm wide tape along ALL interior joins and
seams. You can make this tape easily by carefully cutting strips from your cloth. If you want a
really need job you might want to use pre-cut tapes, but it is not strictly necessary.
NOTE# Many small dingys use 50mm wide tape here, but the general rule of thumb is 9 times
the ply thickness for each leg of the join, so for 6mm ply that equals 108mm for the tape width.
This is clearly excessive in a little boat like this, but 75mm is better than 50mm.

STEP #12 RE-FIT THE SEAT PANELS.

The tape covering the edges of the seat panels should now be removed, and the edges
trimmed. Each panel will require just a little sanding and trimming especially at the chines,
where you will have to make allowance for the thickness of the chine fillets and tapes. Just do
it with a sanding block via. trial and error.
Once each seat panel is fitted, secure it back in place with a few dollops of epoxy glue. Once
the dollops are cured you can run high density epoxy fillets all the way around the hull /
panel joins, on both sides of the seat panel.
Note that on the inside (of the seat) of each seat panel, the epoxy fillets should end about
20mm from the top edge of the panel, otherwise they will get in the way when you fit the
framing for the seat tops.
Glass tape is not necessary for the seat panel joins. High density fillets should be more that
enough as long as they are done carefully.



STEP #13 FIT GUNWALES AND BOW BUMPER

GUNWALES
The Gunwales are the stiffening timber for the top edges of the hull shell sides. Each gunwale
is two strip of 12mm x 42mm timber glued to the outside of the topside along the top edge,
and secured with clamps until the glue cures. It is easier to do each of the two layers
separately. Note that the gunwales fit over the hull sheathing.
At the position of the oar rowlocks, glue a third short layer to form a block for the row lock
plates.
If you want to clear finish the gunwales you need to be very careful to get everything even and
straight, as imperfections will be obvious. Personally I recommend fill, sand and paint. This is
intended to be a work horse, and many sailors will want to fit rubber bumpers etc over these
anyway.

BOW BUMPER
This is simply a curved 19mm x 42mm timber strip fitted across the top of the bow transom.
Cut it to the transom top curve from a piece of 68mm wide timber and glue it in position. Fill /
sand / paint.

STEPS #14 and 15 COMPLETING THE SEATS.

The framing in the top of the seats is shown on sheet 16 of the drawings, and is fairly self
explanatory. Note the 68mm wide centerline members in the forward seat (to support the mast
if you add one tater) and the center seat (to support the rower.)
Framing cross pieces should be housed slightly into the seat panel top framing, and secured
with glue and screws.
The ply seat top panels are simply glued / screwed down onto the framing. Note that it is
easier to fit each panel in two halves, with a join on the centerline, if you need to adjust the fit
at all.
The center seat panel can be fitted in three pieces, and the center piece hinged and latched to
form a locker in the center seat. If you do this, the center 68mm timber support can be omitted.
The fore and aft seats must be finished water tight (no exceptions) and each should be fitted
with a small inspection port in the seat vertical panel, to allow ventilation when the boat is out
of the water.
Note# fit the U bolt in the bow transom before you fit the forward seat top.

FINISHING THE BOAT

To finish the boat, you need to finish the transom. Fit the transom brace (19mm x 42mm)
across the top, and fit the motor bracket. To do this, pack the transom out behind the bracket
with two layers of 9mm ply, then fit a 6mm layer of ply over all, as shown on sheet 17.
Now all that is left is to fill, sand and paint the boat. How well you wish to do this is entirely
up to you.



MATERIALS LIST

This list will provide sufficient materials to build the Pippie 8 tender if built to plan.

PLYWOOD

6mm ply 2 sheets 2400mm x 1200mm
9mm ply 1 sheet 2400mm x 1200mm

TIMBER

Softwood (Oregon or Hoop Pine) Hardwood
12mm x 42mm 10 meters 19mm x 19mm 1.5 meters
19mm x 19mm 5 meters
19mm x 31mm 1.5 meters
19mm x 42mm 3.2 meters
19mm x 68mm 1 meter
19mm x 93mm 1.1 meter
31mm x 31mm 4 metres

WOVEN GLASS CLOTH

200 gsm wgc 8 Meters
2


EPOXY MATERIALS

Resin 8 liters
Fillers etc These differ depending on the type of resin - discuss with your supplier.

Various glassing tools and volatiles discuss your needs with your supplier.

FITTINGS
The fittings required for the Pippie are minimal.

Rowlock / rowlock plate sets (2) Ronstan PNP77 or similar
U bolt Ronstan RF541 or similar
Oars (2)
Plastic inspection port (2) Ronstan RF530 or similar

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These ePlans will allow you to build the Pippie 8 Tender / Dingy, which can be rowed, sculled
or driven with the smallest outboard motors. If however, you would like to add sailing
capability, you may wish to consider the Pippie 8 Sailing Trainer. This little yacht is identical
to the tender, but with the addition of mast and sail, a rudder and center board. The Tender
can be upgraded to the Trainer at a later time, however it is better to do so from the start, as
installing the centerboard case is much easier at the initial stages.

Plans for the Pippie 8 Sailing Trainer are not free, however they are available from our web site
for a nominal fee as downloadable ePlans
http://www.wallerdesign.com.au