Professional Documents
Culture Documents
S
S
N
:
2
0
0
5
-
2
1
6
2
www.korea.net
12
DECEMBER
2009
Opening a communicative space
between Korea and the world
Koreas Dynamos:
Innovative Success Stories
The Diplomacy of the Dinner Table
A Slug
P
r
o
v
i
d
e
d
b
y
t
h
e
K
o
r
e
a
L
i
t
e
r
a
t
u
r
e
T
r
a
n
s
l
a
t
i
o
n
I
n
s
t
i
t
u
t
e
Meditations on a Snipe (Doyosae-e gwanhan myeongsang)
48 korea December 2009
Jo Jeong-gu, a noted Korean architect (be-
low), has been the master hand behind some
of the most high-prole hanok, or traditional
buildings, construction projects in Korea. One
example is a hanok in Gahoe-dong, Seoul
(right), called Seoneumjae and built in 1934.
Architect Preserves, Resurrects
Koreas Traditional Lifestyles
P
r
o
v
i
d
e
d
b
y
J
o
J
e
o
n
g
-
g
u
,
[
J
o
o
n
g
A
n
g
I
l
b
o
]
December 2009 korea 49
Korean Artist Korean Artist
caption
W
here are all the
traditional build-
ings?
Thats the
question that ends up on the lips of
some foreigners who visit Korea for the
first time with high hopes of indulging
themselves in the trappings of old Asia.
Such a response is understandable
considering the massive and hasty
industrialization of the 1960s and 70s
destroyed many of Koreas traditional
houses, known here as hanok.
A reminder of old and impoverished
times past, many hanok were demol-
ished and replaced with modern, West-
ern-style apartment buildings, many
bleak and featureless.
Data show that more than 50 per-
cent of Korean people now live in these
apartment buildings. In Seoul alone,
home to more than 10 million people
about a quarter of the countrys pop-
ulation only about 14,000 hanok are
known to have survived.
Yet in recent years, the old houses
have found themselves enjoying new-
found attention.
The central government has taken
note of their rich potential as tourist
attractions, certifying one hanok village
after another. Architects, meanwhile,
have fallen in love with their architec-
50 korea December 2009
in the Seodaemun-gu area in Seoul. Before that the
couple and their only child had lived in a typical Kore-
an apartment building. Now, Jo and his wife have four
kids, which they say must have something to do with
the peace of mind that comes with living in a hanok.
The typical hanok is built around a courtyard. Jo
has even been quoted as saying that the focus of my
architecture is always the yard. Its a subject Jo can talk
about for hours and he didnt miss the chance to do
so in this interview.
I dont necessarily believe that a hanok must be a
traditional wooden structure, Jo says. But I do believe
the most important thing in a hanok is its relationship
with the courtyard. That is where the true hanokness
comes from: the yard.
Jo lives in a hanok himself
along with his wife, children
and a pet. The couple says
they enjoy the peace of mind
that comes with living in a
hanok.
tural beauty and the ancestral wisdom
evident in the way they are built. For
example, ondol floor heating systems
come from hanok.
Since 2001, the Seoul Metropolitan
Government has been working on pre-
serving the citys remaining hanok, most
of which can be found in the districts of
Jongno-gu, Seongbuk-gu and Dong-
daemun-gu. The government has intro-
duced various measures, including a
ban on real estate development in hanok
neighborhoods and subsidies to remod-
el and maintain the old homes.
Today, hanok are in the middle of a
full-fledged renaissance, with the emer-
gence of hanok inns, hanok restaurants,
even a hanok dental clinic, while adopt-
ing elements of their traditional designs
is all the rage in Korean architecture.
A man who deserves a fair share of
credit for hanoks newfound popularity
is Jo Jeong-gu, the director at Guga
Architects. He has renovated or built
more than 30 hanok across Korea that
have now become landmarks in more
ways than one.
They include, in Seoul, the Institute
of Korean Royal Cuisine in Wonseo-
dong, Restaurant Nuri in Insa-dong and
the Bukchon Hanok Village; in Gyeong-
sangbuk-do Province, the Gunja Village
Hall in Andong; in Gyeongsangbuk-do,
La Gung, a hanok-style hotel in Gyeo-
ngju.
Today, so many things are disap-
pearing, Jo laments. Even before we
get to look at or talk about what we have,
their meaning and value, our cities get
demolished and erased. We need to
come up with a way to bring develop-
ment to cities without erasing.
One model, Jo says, is the hanok
renovation project in Bukchon, north-
ern Seoul, which in 2001 gave birth to
the Bukchon Hanok Village, now a tour-
ist destination.
According to Jo, the project was an
eye-opener for him, as well, helping him
discover the potential of hanok and
delve into their structure. Not long
afterward, Jo became the go-to architect
for high-profile hanok projects.
Since Bukchon, Jo says he has fallen
in love with hanok. So much so that in
2003 Jo and his wife moved to a hanok
[
J
o
o
n
g
A
n
g
I
l
b
o
]
December 2009 korea 51
Korean Artist Korean Artist
Jo went on to say that a hanoks yard
is not something that people just look at
and enjoy visually. It is something that
people use, where people feel the sea-
sons change.
Getting a yard is like getting a piece
of nature in a huge room, Jo says.
One of Jos most high-profile proj-
ects was the multiple award-winning La
Gung hotel. La Gung opened in 2007
and enjoyed intense media coverage, as
it was the first high-end, luxury hanok
hotel to open in Korea.
Often La Gung is fully booked over
the weekend, said Min Dae-sik at the
Shilla Millennium Park, the film set-
cum-theme park that houses the hotel.
Part of the reason is because it only has
16 villas, but we believe its also an indi-
cation that people are responding posi-
tively to hanok structures.
Jo admits he wasnt certain La Gung
would succeed when he was first given
the job. After all, it was an unprecedent-
ed project.
My biggest concern when design-
ing La Gung was how many traditional
elements I would use and how much I
would adopt modern functions.
In its completed form, La Gung
embodies the qualities that set Jo apart
from other hanok-savvy architects: It
retains its traditional form and atmo-
sphere with modern functions and facil-
ities.
Each villa at the hotel has two to
three rooms, a private yard, as well as a
private, open-air hot bath.
After La Gung, Jo worked on anoth-
er hanok hotel, a hanok library and a
hanok art gallery. But the architect says
he is most inspired by residential hanok,
and names a hanok in Gahoe-dong
called Seoneumjae as one of his most
memorable projects.
Built in 1934, the hanok was on the
verge of being demolished, with the
owner, like so many who came before,
tempted by a large offer from a real
estate developer. But Jo heard about
Seoneumjae and its historical value and
convinced the owner to opt for renova-
tion instead.
I thought about what the best reno-
vated hanok Ive ever worked on was. It
was, in fact, my house. I have lived in a
A model of
one hanok Jo
saved from the
wrecking ball
was chosen
for an exhibit
at the Korean
Embassy to
the U.S.
La Gung, Koreas rst high-
end hanok hotel, was also
the work of Jo. La Gung em-
bodies the qualities that dif-
ferentiate Jo from from other
hanok-savvy architects by
retaining its traditional form
with modern twist.
hanok since 2003, but I didnt renovate it too much.
Thats when I realized that when it comes to hanok
renovation, less is more.
Although Jo focused on keeping the original frame
and ambiance of Seoneumjae, he did add elements to
please the owner and make life there more convenient,
like a listening room in the basement. Still, Jo made
sure the buildings 70-year heritage was kept as intact
as possible.
That is perhaps why, along with a model of the
130-year-old hanok residence of Koreas former presi-
dent Yun Po-sun in Insa-dong, central Seoul, a minia-
ture of Seoneumjae was chosen to be displayed at an
exhibition in Washington, D.C., hosted by the Korean
Embassy.
A graduate in architecture of the prestigious Seoul
National University, Jo opened his first office, Guga
Architects, in 2000. That was also when he initiated
what he calls the Wednesday survey. Every Wednes-
day he heads out to examine and document buildings,
alleys and other urban structures and elements in and
around the Seodaemun-gu area.
So far he has done more than 460 such surveys and
completed nine detailed scrapbooks. Looking over
them today, one is struck by Jos persistence, even stub-
bornness. But along the way, Jo said, he has learned
more about life than about architecture.
The 43-year-old says that through the surveys he
has come to a better understanding of the way people
live, and of Seoul as a historic yet constantly changing
city.
Different people live differently, according to their
walks of life, financial circumstances and whatnot.
Some of the places may look dark, cramped and old,
but still they are a precious backdrop to someones life,
just like any other place. A good city is one where dif-
ferent people can live in harmony.
By Kim Hyung-eun
[
J
o
n
n
g
A
n
g
I
l
b
o
]
52 korea December 2009
Majestic Park Will Be Home
to a Beloved Korean Sport
Participants in the rst World Youth Taekwondo Camp, held in August,
compete in a match. Provided by the Taekwondo Promotion Foundation.
T
aekwondo Promotion Foun-
dation Chairman Lee Dai-soon
firmly believes that Taekwondo
Park, currently being con-
structed in Muju, Jeollabuk-do Province,
will help develop the sport on a global
scale.
The project will provide up-to-date
training facilities for practitioners of the
sport, but more importantly it will
embody the spirit of the sport by educat-
ing youth and providing a tranquil envi-
ronment for visitors to meditate,
explained the 76-year-old Lee, who is
also vice president of the World Tae-
kwondo Federation, at his office.
After serving as a lawmaker for eight
years in the 1980s from Goheung-gun
and Boseong-gun in Jeollanam-do Prov-
ince, Lee has had an illustrious career in
sports and government posts over the
years. Since he was appointed as the head
of TPF in 2005 when the organization
was founded, Lee has been hard at work
on the Taekwondo Park project.
The all-purpose training and educa-
tional facility will include a Taekwondo
Hall of Fame, a World Culture Village, a
5,000-seat arena, training centers and
lodging facilities on a sprawling site of
23,000 square kilometers (8,880 square
miles), or approximately the size of 4,157
football fields. A groundbreaking took
place on Taekwondo Day on Sept. 4, and
Taekwondo Park is to be completed in
two phases, the first phase by 2013 and
the rest by 2018. The entire project,
backed by public and private funds, is
expected to cost around 236 billion won
($204 million). When complete it is
expected to provide the 50 million or so
practitioners of the sport a place to gath-
er and hone their bodies, spirits and
minds.
What sets taekwondo apart from
some other modern sports is that it
preaches the importance of moral values
P
r
o
v
i
d
e
d
b
y
T
a
e
k
w
o
n
d
o
P
r
o
m
o
t
i
o
n
F
o
u
n
d
a
t
i
o
n
52 korea December 2009
December 2009 korea 53
Sports
decide upon a finalist from a list of six
other cities including Chuncheon,
Gangwon-do Province and Gyeongju,
Gyeongsangbuk-do Province. However,
as Lee explained, there was a clear reason
for choosing Muju.
The picturesque area is ideal for the
type of park we have in mind, but the
area also has historical significance. The
area was once the border of the ancient
Korean kingdoms of Baekje and Silla.
You could say its the area where the
sport was founded, said Lee. Its also in
the central region of Korea, and a lot
closer to Seoul than one might expect.
The area is merely 30 minutes on the
KTX [bullet train] from Daejeon.
With several International Olympic
Committee members in attendance at
the groundbreaking in September, Lee
said he received positive feedback about
the park and what it means for the future
of the sport.
While known as a sport that has been
dominated by Korean athletes at inter-
national events in the past, taekwondo
has consistently grown over the years in
other places around the world. This has
resulted in a more level playing field, and
with Taekwondo Park expected to be
completed within a decade, the pros-
pects of the sport further blossoming
look bright. By Jason Kim
and respect for elders. For practitioners of the sport, it
is not merely important to be a good athlete but also to
develop into well-rounded people with outstanding
moral values.
This is part of the reason the WTF and TPF co-
organized the very first World Youth Taekwondo Camp
in August. The six-day event included 260 participants
between the ages of 14 and 17 from 33 countries. Its the
overall goal of the two organizations not only to spread
the positives of the sport to youth all over the world but
also to make an impact on young athletes.
We introduced success cases to the participants.
Former taekwondo athletes who have gone on to have
success later in life shared their stories at the camp.
There was a Taiwanese lawmaker and an Iranian city
official, among others. We hoped to give the kids hopes
and dreams, in addition to keeping themselves healthy
and in good shape, said Lee.
Aside from the actual coaching of athletes, we had
a session in which we asked the kids to write down a
bad habit or mistakes that they had made in the past on
wooden boards. Then we had them break the boards
and gave them time for reflection.
As Lee explained, the emphasis the sport places on
respect for ones self, parents and elders is partly why the
sport has been included as part of regular physical edu-
cation curriculums in some regions in the American
states of Massachusetts and New York. In Iran, Uzbeki-
stan and certain parts of Africa, taekwondo programs
have been added to university curriculums as well. This
makes Taekwondo Park all the more important.
We have sent professors to Uzbek universities and
have plans to sent more professors, taekwondo masters
and volunteers abroad. In order to reach out to places
that request help, we need more instructors, professors
and volunteers. When finished, Taekwondo Park is
expected to provide proper training for practitioners of
all ages and those looking to get involved in teaching
the sport, Lee said. That is the reason we are devoting
a lot of attention to the research center to be built on the
grounds of the park. Furthermore, a new facility for
Kukkiwon [the world taekwondo headquarters] will be
set aside on the grounds as well.
Some may question why Taekwondo Park isnt
closer to Seoul, the capital of Korea and the economic
and cultural center of the country. At the early stages of
the planning process, the two governing groups had to
Lee Dai-soon, chairman of the Taekwondo
Promotion Foundation
The park will
offer youth
training, but
also host
research and
instruct new
masters.
[
P
r
e
s
s
-
Q
]
54 korea December 2009
T
he most recognized female taekwondo ath-
lete in the world lived up to high expecta-
tions, winning a gold medal in dramatic
fashion at the 2009 World Taekwondo Cham-
pionships held in Copenhagen, Denmark from Oct.
14 to 18. Lim Su-jeong defeated Zhang Hua of China
in the final of the womens 62-kilogram (136.7-pound)
division by 10-8 at the Ballerup Super Arena.
The 2008 Beijing Olympics gold medalist was
favored to win her division, and she cruised through
the early rounds. In the semifinals, Lim showed an
impressive display of three kicks to the face as she
defeated Estefania Hernandez of Spain by 9-5.
The final match against Zhang proved to be much
tougher, as Lim trailed until the end of the second
round. Then, behind 8-7, Lim landed a right kick
square on her opponents face to earn three points to
win the match 10-8.
The 23-year-old has now won at every major com-
petition, including the 2002 Asian Games and 2007
Universiade Games.
Kim Joon-tae, competing in the mens 74-kilogram
division, also added a gold medal. Kims toughest foe
came in the semifinals, when he faced Mark Lopez of
the U.S. Kim fell behind early but came back with kicks
Lim Bests
Zhang in
Denmark
[
Y
O
N
H
A
P
]
Koreas
reigning
taekwondo
champion
continues to
impress
Lim Su-jeong of Korea lands
a kick to the face of her op-
ponent, Zhang Hua of China,
in the womens 62-kilogram
division nal match on Oct.
19 at the Ballerup Super
Arena in Copenhagen, Den-
mark.
Lim Su-jeong
to the body and facial area to take the
match by 7-5. He bested Canadas Maxi-
me Potvin in the finals, 5-2.
The Korean men managed to earn
three gold medals and finished first over
Iran and Turkey, while the female team
finished second overall behind China
with two gold medals.
The tournaments most valuable
player honors went to American Steven
Lopez, who won his fifth consecutive
world title, and Brigitte Yague of Spain.
These World Championships are
the biggest in history. Over 1,000 par-
ticipants, five courts, the new electronic
body protectors, and the video replay.
This is a truly fantastic World Champi-
onships. We are making history, Chakir
Chelbat, vice president of the WTF ref-
erees committee, was quoted as saying.
Later, at the World Taekwondo Tour
2009 Mexico on Nov. 14 at Palacio de los
Deportes in Mexico City, Mexico, Lim
Su-jeong faced down Diana Lopez of
the famed American Lopez taekwondo
family.
The new professional tour event,
organized by the World Taekwondo
Federation, featured a total of 16 of the
sports top athletes in four divisions of
competition. The top prize in each divi-
sion was US$20,000 in cash. The new
professional tour will also help to start a
global ranking system in the sport.
By Jason Kim
December 2009 korea 55
Sports
K
im Yu-na got off to a domi-
nating start in the 2009-10
season and is a clear favorite
to win the gold at the 2010
Winter Olympics in Vancouver in Feb-
ruary.
Having bagged her sixth Grand
Prix title and in the process setting
a record with a new combined score
of 210.03 at the Trophe Eric Bompard
competition in Paris, Kim topped her
previous best of 207.71, which she set at
the World Championships in March. In
the first of six 2009-10 ISU Grand Prix
figure skating events, Kim also set a
new world record in the free skating
program with a score of 133.95. At
this point Kim is the clear favorite
to win win gold in Vancouver,
which would make her the first
Korean figure skater to do so.
The 19-year-old is in peak
form. The win at Trophe Eric
Bompard was her sixth in a row since
her first Grand Prix win at the same
event in 2006. Kim overwhelmed her
competition with a strong performance
that included a triple lutz-toe loop
combination to start her free skate, per-
formed to George Gershwins Piano
Concerto in F major. Although Kim
could not get off her triple flip jump,
she drew loud cheers from the audience
for her flying sit spin and spiral
sequence.
Leading into the triple flip jump, it
felt as if there was something caught in
my blade, and I momentarily lost my
balance. However, I feel very satisfied
about finishing the rest of my program
and feel very happy about earning the
highest score, Kim said on Saturday.
Looking at the free skate program
... I was surprised when I saw a score of
210 flash across the scoreboard, Kim
said. Scoring the highest total at the
season opener, I felt numb for a
moment.
As the first competition since her
record-setting World Championships
performance in March, a lot of atten-
tion was paid to Kim leading up to the
French Grand Prix. Kims next compe-
tition was at Skate America in Lake
Placid, New York.
Not only do the Grand Prix series
events help to prepare Kim for the Win-
ter Olympics, but the top six skaters
from the six events get the opportunity
to compete in the Grand Prix Final in
Tokyo in December.
I think Im getting more attention
because the Olympics are coming up. I
have been eagerly anticipating the Van-
couver Winter Games, and therefore I
am a little nervous. Having gathered
good results in two consecutive sea-
sons, my confidence is building, Kim
said.
Japanese skaters Mao Asada and
Yukari Nagano came in second and
third with overall scores of 173.99 and
165.70, respectively. Americas Caroline
Zhang managed 153.15.
Japans Nobunari Oda won the
mens competition with a score of
242.53. Maria Mukhortova and Maxim
Trankov of Russia won the pairs event
with a score of 192.93. Canadians Tessa
Virtue and Scott Moir won the ice danc-
ing event with a score of 197.71.
By Jason Kim
Kim Yu-nas Road
to the Gold
[
Y
O
N
H
A
P
]
High expectations for the Korean
skating star ahead of the Olympics
Kim Yu-na performs her routine during the
free skating portion of the Skate America
event in Lake Placid, New York on Nov. 16.
56 korea December 2009
T
o
t
h
e
S
l
o
p
e
s
!
T
he skiing season is back. Its the classic winter thrill, and athletes and amateurs ascend
from the cities seeking the slopes covered in silvery snow. And with the first snowfall
of the year coming to Gangwon-do Province in early November this year, the resorts
in the region are already open for the season.
This winter is expected to be cold with lots of snow, so resorts that struggled last year due to
unusually high temperatures and a shortage of the white stuff are working overtime to make up
for it in 2009, with pop concerts, nighttime skiing, raffles and gift packages to attract tourists,
especially those from Southeast Asia, a group thats been growing.
After two failed attempts to host the Winter Olympics, Korea is making its third bid to host
the 2018 Winter Olympics, and Koreans are as passionate about the winter sports as ever.
The history of skiing in Korea goes back some 70 years to Hamgyeong-do Province in what
is today North Korea. The sport became popular in the South with the opening of the Alps Resort
in Ganseong-eup, Goseong-gun, Gangwon-do Province, in the early 1970s. Currently, there are
16 ski resorts in South Korea, with the number of fans of skiing and snowboarding always on the
rise.
Those craving a world-class experience should try Yongpyong Ski Resort in Pyeongchang-
gun, Gangwon-do Province, which is once again trying out for the Winter Olympic Games.
Nearby Phoenix Park ski resort is known for its spectacular scenery. You can reach High1 Resort
in Jeongseon-gun, Gangwon-do Province by train, while a ski close to Seoul can be had at Kon-
jiam Resort in Gwangju-gun, Gyeonggi-do Province.
56 korea December 2009
Travel
December 2009 korea 57
Travel
December 2009 korea 57
[
J
o
o
n
g
A
n
g
I
l
b
o
]
58 korea December 2009
Konjiam Resort
(www.konjiamresort.co.kr)
High1 Resorts Womens Paradise program
targets female skiers, top. Many foreigners order
the resorts bibimbap, above.
High1 Resort
(www.high1.co.kr)
High1 Resort offers 20 slopes of various levels, from beginners
slopes to two slopes certified to hold international competitions by
the International Ski Federation. The 4.2-kilometer Zeus Course
connecting Valley Top, Valley Hub and Valley Condo is designated
for novice skiers so that they can learn the sport safely. The three
eight-person gondolas can transport large groups quickly.
This year, High1 Resort is introducing a special promotion exclu-
sively for female skiers called Womens Paradise, which includes
special entertainment, events and food just for ladies. This strategy
is part of High1s attempt to become the hottest resort in town.
A D-10 season pass allows unlimited entry throughout the ski
season, and its 50 percent off for women just 175,000 won
(US$152). The staff members dress up and entertain the skiers wait-
ing to board the gondolas with magic shows, pop quiz games and
raffles. High1 is also the only ski resort in Korea that can be reached
by train. Exclusive service for skiers operates to Gohan Station from
Seoul Station, Busan Station and Masan Station.
Where to Eat
The Korean restaurant Unamjeong (82-33-590-7631) is well known as the
setting for the hit television drama Sikgaek. Housed in a group of traditional
homes, Unamjeongs menu includes Joseon Dynasty court cuisine such as
surabansang (a basic court cuisine set) and jinyeon manchan (a royal feast
set once offered to the ministers by the king) and, of course, dishes that were
featured in the drama. The only downside is the high price. Daryegwan, a tea
house in Unamjeong, offers tea ceremony and etiquette classes. Located at
the peak of Mount Baekunsan, Top of the Mountain is a revolving restaurant
that makes a 360 degree turn every 45 minutes. The Mountain Combination
2 is one of the most popular menu options, and you can enjoy sirloin steak,
shrimp and barbecued pork ribs with sides of potato, fried rice and steamed
vegetables. The price is 38,000 won for two and 50,000 won for three.
[
J
o
o
n
g
A
n
g
I
l
b
o
]
Opened last year, Konjiam Resort is the
first in Korea to limit the number of skiers
on the slopes at one time. Four kilometers
off the Konjiam Interchange on Jungbu
Highway, the resort can be reached in 40
minutes from Gangnam-gu District, Seoul,
and skiers can come out at night on the
weekdays as well. The resort has 11 slopes
and a 476-room hotel with a spa and out-
door hot spring.
Konjiams 365 acres of slopes have a dif-
ference in elevation of 330 meters and are
100 meters wide on average, and the resort compares favorably with
those of Gangwon-do Province. The longest slope is 1.8 kilometers.
The resort removed the half pipe to accommodate novice and inter-
mediate skiers, and theres even a sledding slope for adults and chil-
dren close to the ski school, to make it more accessible to visitors.
Where to Eat
At the foot of the slope, La Grotta is a popular option, featuring a restaurant
and a wine cellar in a cave with 10,000 bottles. Tasting sessions go along
with ne cuisine at La Grottas 72-seat Italian restaurant. The creamy pasta
with clams and arugula and steak grilled on a hot stone plate are popular
choices. Wine starts at 30,000 won.
Travel
December 2009 korea 59
Pyeongchang-gun is known for hwangtaegui, a
savory grilled pollock dish, top. Above, the view
from the top of one of Yongpyongs slopes.
Yongpyong Ski Resort
(www.yongpyong.co.kr)
Korea is now in the midst of its third attempt to win the Winter
Olympics, this time in 2018, and Yongpyong Resort is always the first
to be featured in the presentation to IOC member countries. Three
World Cup Ski Competitions have been held here, and the resort
hosted the Winter Asian Games in 1999 with great success. The
countrys largest ski resort offers 23 slopes and accommodations to
fit every budget, from a five-star hotel to a youth hostel.
The resort is planning several special events to celebrate its 35th
anniversary. Until February 2010, 350 visitors will be selected every
month to receive gifts that include skis, snowboards, season passes,
free nights at one of the resorts hotels, iPods, Nintendo game con-
soles and equipment. Every day, the resort picks a set of four num-
bers, and if those digits match the last four in your telephone number,
youll receive a weekly lift pass, a 35,000 won value, for free.
The international standard-size half pipe located under the Silver
Slope is the first one in Korea equipped with a conveyor belt for the
convenience of snowboarders. The Red Slope features a mogul ter-
rain with bumps, letting skiers try freestyle turns and jumps.
Where to Eat
Pyeongchang-gun is notorious for its cold winters, and walleye pollock is a
famous delicacy of the region. Some restaurants in Hwenggye-ri clustered
near the entrance to the resort specialize in the sh, offering special dishes.
Hwagtae Hoegwan (82-33-335-5795) is famous for its savory grilled pollack.
The 10,000 won dish is accompanied by a bowl of pollack soup, which is a
favorite cure for hangover in winter. Nabjak Diner (033-335-5477), located
next to the Saemaeul Bank in town, is famous for its osam bulgogi, a combi-
nation barbeque platter of cuttlesh and pork belly seasoned with hot pepper
paste. One portion is 7,000 won, which includes white kimchi to wash away
the spice.
[
J
o
o
n
g
A
n
g
I
l
b
o
]
P
r
o
v
i
d
e
d
b
y
t
h
e
c
o
m
p
a
n
y
Left, Serve One Konjiam Resort
Above, after a day (or night) on the ski slopes,
many visitors to Konjiam enjoy dinner and wine
at La Grotta.
60 korea December 2009
Phoenix Park
(www.phoenixpark.co.kr)
Phoenix Park has 21 ski slopes and a sled slope known as Snow
Village. The Mogul Course and Arial Course are internationally
certified to hold freestyle ski events, and young skiers can try out new
skills here. Phoenix Park is a snowboarding mecca in Korea, featur-
ing extreme sports facilities such as triple jump platforms as well as
basic snowboarding fixtures such as rails and boxes. The 2.4-kilome-
ter Sparrow Course, which begins at the top of Mount Taegisan and
reaches to the base of the mountain via the Panorama Course, is the
perfect choice for novice skiers to enjoy the spectacular scenery.
Last year visitors had to buy separate lift and gondola tickets, but
this season combination passes are available, offering a savings of
1,000 won to 4,000 won. Six incumbent national team skiers are on
hand to teach and demonstrate their skills, and a one point clinic
for adults and students is offered on weekends.
Where to Eat
Bongpyeong in Pyeongchang-gun, Gangwon-do Province is the birthplace of
Lee Hyo-seok, a writer well known for his short stories about his hometown,
most notably When the Buckwheat Flowers Bloom. The Hyoseok Cultural Vil-
lage is 10 minutes away by car from Phoenix Park, and there are many restau-
rants specializing in buckwheat noodles. Jinmi Restaurant (82-33-335-0242)
and Bongpyeong Noodles (82-33-335-0242) are especially famous, and they
also serve buckwheat pancakes and sliced boiled pork in addition to the noo-
dles. You can also enjoy nutty homemade tofu and soft tofu at Sanchon Soft
Tofu (82-33-333-5661), located near the entrance to Phoenix Park.
[
J
o
o
n
g
A
n
g
I
l
b
o
]
Buckwheat noodles, above, are often served with
buckwheat pancakes and sliced boiled pork.
Phoenix Park features outstanding facilities for ski-
ers and snowboarders and spectacular scenery.
60 korea December 2009
Travel
December 2009 korea 61
Koreas Taste Masters
December 2009 korea 61
A Visit to the Incheon Shore
for Fresh, Authentic Seafood
Chef Mirko Agostini prefers
simple, harmonious tastes
A
true lover of food would fly to the moon
for a fresh, delicious meal. But according
to Mirko Agostini, executive chef at the
Hyatt Regency Incheon, you dont have
to go that far in fact, his recommendation is just
an hour from Seoul in Eurwang-dong, Incheon.
Agostini is a frequent visitor, since the restaurant is
located only a few minutes from his hotel.
On our small island, there is a
beach area with several seafood
restaurants that use the freshest
products directly from the har-
bor, he says. They serve great
seafood cooked right at your
table.
Of the many restaurants by
the beach, Hoibaragi is this
chef s top choice. The relaxing
and informal atmosphere is
perfect to enjoy the sea breeze,
making it a wonderful spot to
unwind together with friends
and family, he says.
When youre stroll-
ing down the beach,
the restaurant ajumma tries to lure you in. You hardly
ever experience this in Seoul or in other metropolises like
Hong Kong or Sydney.
The food isnt fancy, with specialities kalguksu noo-
dles (5,000 won, US$3.79), grilled clams (40,000 won to
60,000 won) and spicy seafood stew (30,000 won to
50,000 won).
You can enjoy the freshness of the food without any
sauce needed, Agostini said.
And this chef knows what hes talking about. Since
starting his career in 1989, Agostinis philosophy has
stayed the same: authenticity, health and taste. He con-
siders good food to be simple, highlighting the original
flavors of the selected ingredients with harmonious herbs
and seasoning.
For more information on Hoibaragi, call (82-32)
746-3611. By Lee Eun-joo
P
r
o
v
i
d
e
d
b
y
t
h
e
H
a
y
t
t
R
e
g
e
n
c
y
I
n
c
h
e
o
n
Mirko Agostini
Executive chef,
Hyatt Regency Incheon
Kalguksu noodles are a specialty at Hoibaragi in Incheon.
62 korea December 2009
I
wanted to follow in the
footsteps of Hyecho and
let the world know of his
travelogue, the great cul-
tural heritage he left behind.
The 32-year-old explorer and pho-
tographer Nam Young-ho was explain-
ing who inspired his decision to com-
plete a solo crossing of the Taklamakan
Desert in Central Asia on foot.
But Hyecho isnt related to Nam. In
fact, hes been dead for over a thousand
years. Nams inspiration was an 8th-
century Korean Buddhist monk from
the Silla Kingdom (57 B.C.-A.D. 935).
You complain that its a long way
home to the west, and I sigh at the end-
less road to the east. So wrote Hyecho
in 723 when he set out to learn the lan-
guage and culture of the land of the
Buddha. During his journey across Chi-
na, central Asia and finally India,
Hyecho wrote a travelogue in Chinese
titled Memoir of a Pilgrimage to the Five
Kingdoms of India.
The work contains information on
local cuisine, languages, climates, cul-
tures and even politics. It was lost for
many years until a fragment of it was
rediscovered in 1908. That fragment,
now in France, has been translated into
different languages over the years.
Nam decided to reenact the part in
Hyechos book in which the monk
crossed this desert, which bears a name
that some claim means, Go in and you
will never come out.
The modern-day pilgrim departed
from a point on the deserts southern
edge in Chinas Hotan Prefecture on
Oct. 3, then walked 450 kilometers (280
miles) over 19 days to the city of Aral. It
is believed that his journey marks the
first time a single individual has crossed
the arid wasteland on foot, although
expeditions and merchant caravans
have traveled the route using camels or
vehicles in the past.
[
Y
O
N
H
A
P
]
In the Sandy Footsteps
of an Ancient Pilgrim
Nam Young-ho set out to replicate the trek of the Silla
Kingdom monk Hyecho across the Taklamakan Desert in
Central Asia. He became the rst person to cross the des-
ert solo on foot.
December 2009 korea 63
People
December 2009 korea 63
People
Even the
sand, which
moved like a
snake climb-
ing a hill, was
breathtaking.
The Korean explorer first developed
the idea of crossing the Taklamakan
during a bicycle trip across the Eurasian
continent. Nam had just climbed a
mountain to cross over into the Uighur
Autonomous Region in China. Stand-
ing at the top of the mountain, he saw
the sands of the desert stretch endlessly
to the horizon. I knew I had found my
next adventure, he said.
Even with his goal in mind, Nam
initially had difficulty planning a route.
It was then that he came across Hyecho
and his travelogue. While studying the
Silk Road and the ancient civilizations
that inhabited the region, I discovered
Hyecho. In some ways, he was an explorer even great-
er than Christopher Columbus.
Taklamakan is the 15th-largest sandy desert in the
world, covering an area of 270,000 square kilometers.
It is 1,000 kilometers long and 400 kilometers wide,
and was once crossed at its northern and southern
edges by two branches of the Silk Road. The yellow
dust storms that cover the Korean Peninsula in spring
partly originate here.
In daytime, the average temperature in October
reaches a range of 25 to 30 degrees Celsius (77 to 86
degrees Fahrenheit). With the heat reflected from the
sand, however, the air feels closer to 40 degrees. Because
of the deserts proximity to the frigid air of Siberia and
its extreme inland position, even in the summer nights
are cold, while in winter they can reach minus 20
degrees Celsius. There is no water in the desert, with
the exception of a few oasis towns that survive off rain-
fall from the mountains to the north and east.
Nam managed to cover his costs, which amounted
to some 50 million won (US$43,000), with the help of
sponsors. Two people followed him at a distance of 4
kilometers in vehicles to record his trip.
The Korean made the journey relying on his mem-
ory and an old-fashioned compass. He had hoped to
use a GPS system, but when the Chinese authorities
saw him testing it at the beginning of his journey, they
confiscated it and detained him for two days.
Nams backpack weighed almost 30 kilograms (66
pounds), but held only essential equipment such as his
desert goggles and his camera. He had to carry it an
average of 24 kilometers every day, over sand dunes
that could sometimes reach 15 meters high.
At first, I felt a slight sense of terror seeing only
sand dune after sand dune as I kept on walking. But
after a while, I came across some desert animals like
camels, desert foxes and lizards. Seeing these creatures
that have adapted to the ways of their harsh surround-
ings, I began to appreciate life and its fullness. Nams
words seem to echo the spirit of the Buddhist monk in
whose footsteps he walked. Even the sand, which
moved like a snake climbing a hill, was breathtaking. I
cant describe the feeling I had when I lay down on the
warm sand at night and watched the stars in the sky
that looked like diamonds on black velvet.
One memorable moment came when Nam met a
Uighur man who was camping in the desert searching
for medicinal roots. We were so surprised to see each
other we almost fainted! Nam recalled.
Nam took some 1,000 photographs on his journey,
which will be posted online at http://blog.naver.com/
explorer05 with captions in Korean.
And Nams ties with Hyecho do not end here. Next
year, he hopes to follow the monks complete journey,
from Gyeongju, Korea through China, Vietnam, Sin-
gapore, India, Pakistan and Iran. By Lim Ji-soo
64 korea December 2009 64 korea December 2009
A missionary invited Kent Kamasumba to Jirisan High
School in Gyeongsangnam-do Province from his village in
a remote area of Zambia, southern Africa.
Boys Journey from Zambia
to Koreas Top University
[
J
o
o
n
g
A
n
g
I
l
b
o
]
December 2009 korea 65
People
December 2009 korea 65
People
I
n April, Kent Kamasumba was
accepted as third-year student at
Jirisan High School in Sancheong-
ri, Gyeongsangnam-do Province.
On Oct. 30, the 20-year-old student
from the southern African country of
Zambia was accepted into the Depart-
ment of Agricultural Economics and
Rural Development at Seoul National
University, Koreas most prestigious
institution of higher learning.
A separate admissions screening for
foreign nationals allowed for Kama-
sumbas early admission for the 2010
academic year. It is very rare for a for-
eigner attending a high school in Korea
to be selected for early admission to the
school.
After graduating from high school
in Zambia in February, Kamasumba
came to Korea with help from Baek Ye-
cheol, a Korean missionary who was
looking for a student to study at Jirisan
at the request of the school.
Though Kamasumba graduated
from a high school with honors, he did
not have money for college.
I wanted to keep on studying at a
university, but my family could not
afford to pay for the tuition due to finan-
cial difficulties, he said. My father
passed away when I was young, and
there was no one to earn money. I am so
happy that I can keep on learning in
Korea. I am planning to earn bachelors,
masters and doctorate degrees at SNU
and become a famous scholar in agricul-
tural economics so that I can develop
my homeland. I want to learn how Korea
turned from poor to rich in a short peri-
od of time.
At Jirisan, the Zambian student
reportedly had no trouble catching up
in classes taught in English, but he had
hard time speaking Korean. He took
Korean language classes after school
and practiced with his schoolmates
while living in a dormitory.
A month later, staff and students
from SNU visited Jirisan. They told
Kamasumba about a Kenyan student at
the school, and the Zambian made up
his mind to study at Seoul National Uni-
versity.
Kamasumba
was raised by
relatives in
poverty, but he
always
managed to
be an honors
student.
Kamasumba has a firm goal that he will someday
turn his poor motherland into a rich one, said Park
Hae-sung, 54, the principal at Jirisan High School.
Unfortunately Kamasumbas family in Zambia
doesnt yet know about his success.
His hometown is located in an isolated area, some
200 kilometers (124 miles) from the capital of Lusaka.
There are no phones, and it takes about a month for
letters to be delivered.
Kamasumba grew up mostly with relatives because
his parents were too poor to raise him. He said he
survived by eating fruit or vegetables once a day. To
earn his meals, Kamasumba had to carry drinking
water from a well two kilometers from his home. Only
after doing many chores could he take time to study,
but he was always a top student.
While at school in Korea, Kamasumba would visit
a nearby welfare center for the elderly on weekends
and help them bathe. He also volunteered to guide
foreign visitors at a management office for Mount Jiri-
san National Park.
I used to be pessimistic about being poor, said a
third-year student named Lim, 18. But I was moti-
vated by Kamasumba that I should have stronger con-
fidence and study harder.
Park said, I believe that talented students from
Africa like Kamasumba can play a bridge-building role
between Korea and African countries when they
return to their homeland after studying in Korea.
The principal also said the school is going to find
as many sponsors as possible to provide Kamasumba
with tuition and daily expenses. Those willing to pro-
vide a helping hand can call Jirisan school at (82-)
55-973-9723.
Established in 2004 as an alternative school target-
ing underprivileged students inside and outside Korea,
Jirisan High School was authorized as a general high
school by the government.
With the help of many sponsors, 53 students attend
the school for free. Including Kamasumba, there are
three foreign students among them.
Eleven teachers and 14 other volunteer instructors
are on staff, including a retired Sogang University pro-
fessor of Korean literature, Kim Yeol-kyu.
Students take classes from early in the morning
until the afternoon. After school, they help farmers in
the fields and engage in volunteer activities.
Zambia, which shares borders with the Democrat-
ic Republic of the Congo, Tanzania, Mozambique,
Zimbabwe, Namibia and Angola, was under British
colonial rule from 1923 to 1964 and still faces extreme
poverty and the blight of AIDS. Its GDP per capita is
around US$1,500, and its unemployment rate 50 per-
cent. By Lee Min-yong
66 korea December 2009
Foreign Viewpoints
A
s chairman of the Cana-
dian Chamber of Com-
merce in Korea, I have had
the privilege to be invited
to serve on various advisory councils,
including the Presidential Council on
Nation Branding, Invest KOREA Ad-
visory Council (IKAC) and the Seoul
Foreign Investment Advisory Council
(FIAC). Through these committees, the
Korean government receives input,
critiques and recommendations from
foreign nationals living in Korea on a
wide range of economic issues.
Im also an avid reader of foreign and
local newspapers, where it is common
to nd opinion columns and articles
written by foreigners in which Korea
and Koreans are criticized. Having
lived in Korea for a long time and hav-
ing a relatively good knowledge of the
country, these articles often strike a
chord. I cant help agreeing with the
analysis offered by these Western ob-
servers about what Koreans should or
shouldnt do about a host of issues. In
fact, I must confess that Im about to
add my voice to the chorus of critics by
writing a book (to be published in Ko-
rean) to offer suggestions to Korean
companies on how to enhance their
businesses overseas by changing old
habits and adopting a global mindset.
All of this shows that it has become
too easy and even hip to criticize Kore-
ans for what they havent achieved.
However, a few days ago, I was bluntly
reminded that foreigners tend to criti-
cize Korea too much. At a recent Seoul
FIAC meeting, one of the European
participants raised an excellent point,
after several of his colleagues (and
myself) expressed downbeat opinions
and made remarks about how things
should be done. This participant
said that, when it comes to analyz-
ing Seouls state of development, we
too often see the glass as being half
empty. In his opinion, when it comes
to Seoul, the glass should rather be
seen as more than half full.
He pointed that Seoul has lifted itself
from total devastation less than 60
years ago and built itself into a meg-
alopolis, in terms of infrastructure,
culture and afuence. No other East
Asian city has accomplished the same
feat and leapfrogged so many stages
of economic and social development.
Seouls trafc may be one of the favor-
ite topics of for foreigners rants, but
have they compared it to other Asian
cities? And what about air quality?
Today, Seoul offers unequaled infra-
structure and cultural vibrancy. In what
other large Asian city can you waterski
in the downtown area, visit a world-
class art gallery, go mountain climb-
ing, run a global business, eat some of
the best food in the world and attend
a major concert, all in the same day?
Most of all, Seoul is arguably one of the
safest large cities in Asia. I have never
heard of foreigners being attacked on
the street, at any time of the day or
night. How many other Asian cities
boast that level of personal safety and
comparable joie de vivre?
And we shouldnt forget where Korea
comes from. Since 1948, Koreas
GDP has grown 746-fold at an average
of 6.8 percent per year, mainly as the
result of hard work, careful planning
and cohesive economic policies. By the
end of the war, Koreas most notable
export was scrap metal from military
tanks to Japan. One-third of the steel
used to build the Tokyo Tower came
from these exports. In 1960, Koreas
share of global exports was 0.03 per-
cent. By 2007, it was 2.7 percent.
Few countries have ridden the wave
of globalization as successfully. Very
few Fortune 500 companies can boast
comparable export to domestic sales
ratios. Today, Korea is no longer an
Asian tiger. It is the worlds 13th-
largest economy. It has hosted the
Olympics and the World Cup. It joined
the OECD in 1996 and will host a G-20
summit in November 2010.
So lets recognize that Koreans have
shown tremendous resolve and capac-
ity to change. Despite my own regular
criticism, I remain condent and opti-
mistic. Pilseung Korea!
Its easy to criticize Korea. But
one look around the world
shows how remarkable its
transformation has been.
Dont Take
Koreas Tale
For Granted
Simon Bureau is chairman of the Canadian
Chamber of Commerce in Korea. He is also
CEO of Vectis Corporation, a Seoul-based
consulting rm that provides assistance to
Korean rms expanding overseas. Simon
has witnessed major changes in the Korean
market, having lived and worked in Korea
on different occasions since 1986.
I B R S / C C R I N
o
: 1 0 0 2 4 - 4 0 7 3 0
K O I S
1 5 H y o j a - r o , J o n g n o - g u
S e o u l ( 1 1 0 - 0 4 0 )
R e p u b l i c o f K o r e a
N E P A S A F F R A N C H I R
N O S T A M P R E Q U I R E D
P r i o r i t y / P r i o r i l a i r e
B y a i r m a i l / P a r a v i o n
R E P L Y P A I D / R P O N S E P A Y E
K O R E A ( S E O U L )
3
.
E
n
t
e
r
y
o
u
r
s
t
r
e
e
t
a
d
d
r
e
s
s
f
o
r
a
f
r
e
e
h
a
r
d
c
o
p
y
o
r
d
o
w
n
l
o
a
d
a
P
D
F
f
i
l
e
o
f
t
h
e
m
a
g
a
z
i
n
e
e
a
c
h
m
o
n
t
h
.
2
.
H
o
m
e
>
L
i
b
r
a
r
y
>
P
u
b
l
i
c
a
t
i
o
n
s
>
P
e
r
i
o
d
i
c
a
l
s
*
K
o
r
e
a
T
h
i
s
m
o
n
t
h
l
y
m
a
g
a
z
i
n
e
p
r
o
v
i
d
e
s
f
i
r
s
t
-
h
a
n
d
i
n
f
o
r
m
a
t
i
o
n
o
n
p
o
l
i
c
i
e
s
,
c
u
l
t
u
r
e
a
n
d
t
o
u
r
i
s
m
.
S
u
b
s
c
r
i
p
t
i
o
n
s
L
a
t
e
s
t
U
p
d
a
t
e
:
D
e
c
e
m
b
e
r
2
0
0
9
6
8
p
a
g
e
s
1
.
K
o
r
e
a
.
n
e
t
S
u
b
s
c
r
i
b
e
o
n
l
i
n
e
f
o
r
y
o
u
r
f
r
e
e
c
o
p
y
o
f
k
o
r
e
a
.
I
t
'
s
a
s
s
i
m
p
l
e
a
s
.
.
.
1
.
A
r
e
t
h
e
c
o
n
t
e
n
t
s
i
n
k
o
r
e
a
m
a
g
a
z
i
n
e
u
s
e
f
u
l
f
o
r
u
n
d
e
r
s
t
a
n
d
i
n
g
K
o
r
e
a
?
(
1
)
V
e
r
y
u
s
e
f
u
l
(
2
)
U
s
e
f
u
l
(
3
)
S
o
m
e
w
h
a
t
u
s
e
f
u
l
(
4
)
N
o
t
u
s
e
f
u
l
a
t
a
l
l
2
.
W
h
a
t
k
i
n
d
o
f
c
o
n
t
e
n
t
s
d
o
y
o
u
f
i
n
d
m
o
s
t
i
n
t
e
r
e
s
t
i
n
g
o
r
u
s
e
f
u
l
i
n
k
o
r
e
a
?
(
1
)
C
u
l
t
u
r
e
(
K
o
r
e
a
n
W
a
v
e
,
t
r
a
v
e
l
,
f
o
o
d
,
b
o
o
k
s
,
e
t
c
.
)
(
2
)
I
n
t
e
r
-
K
o
r
e
a
n
R
e
l
a
t
i
o
n
s
(
3
)
I
n
t
e
r
n
a
t
i
o
n
a
l
C
o
o
p
e
r
a
t
i
o
n
(
4
)
E
c
o
n
o
m
y
&
B
u
s
i
n
e
s
s
(
5
)
O
t
h
e
r
s
(
p
l
e
a
s
e
s
p
e
c
i
f
y
)
3
.
H
o
w
d
o
y
o
u
f
i
n
d
t
h
e
e
d
i
t
i
n
g
,
l
a
y
o
u
t
a
n
d
p
r
i
n
t
i
n
g
q
u
a
l
i
t
y
o
f
k
o
r
e
a
?
(
1
)
E
x
c
e
l
l
e
n
t
(
2
)
G
o
o
d
(
3
)
S
o
-
s
o
(
5
)
B
a
d
(
6
)
V
e
r
y
b
a
d
4
.
W
h
i
c
h
a
r
t
i
c
l
e
d
i
d
y
o
u
f
i
n
d
m
o
s
t
i
n
t
e
r
e
s
t
i
n
g
i
n
t
h
i
s
i
s
s
u
e
a
n
d
w
h
y
?
5
.
D
o
y
o
u
h
a
v
e
a
n
y
s
u
g
g
e
s
t
i
o
n
s
f
o
r
i
m
p
r
o
v
i
n
g
t
h
e
c
o
n
t
e
n
t
s
o
f
k
o
r
e
a
,
o
r
a
n
y
n
e
w
i
d
e
a
s
f
o
r
r
e
g
u
l
a
r
s
e
c
t
i
o
n
s
?
6
.
Y
o
u
r
P
e
r
s
o
n
a
l
I
n
f
o
r
m
a
t
i
o
n
:
G
e
n
d
e
r
:
F
e
m
a
l
e
M
a
l
e
C
o
u
n
t
r
y
:
E
-
m
a
i
l
:
R
e
a
d
e
r
s
'
C
o
m
m
e
n
t
s
Y
o
u
r
i
d
e
a
s
w
i
l
l
b
e
r
e
f
l
e
c
t
e
d
i
n
m
a
k
i
n
g
f
o
r
t
h
c
o
m
i
n
g
i
s
s
u
e
s
o
f
k
o
r
e
a
.
2
0
0
9
D
e
c
e
m
b
e
r
G a t e w a y t o K o r e a
Koreas ofcial multi-language website has:
constant updates on Korea's government, economy, tourism, culture and lifestyle
details on exciting events in Korea, what to see and eat, and even ticket prices
countless music les, videos, photos and e-publications
links to over 500 selected reliable websites