Non‐Programmed
Rapid
Fire
Mod
for
PS3


Created
by:
GBlaster

Nearly
$200
to
replace
three
broken
controllers
and
uncountable

amount
of
parts
later;
this
tutorial
is
created
in
order
to
aid
you
in

creating
a
Non‐programmed
rapid‐fire
mod
for
your
PS3
safely.

This
was
created
for
non‐profit
purposes
that
way
you
would
not
have

to
pay
other
people
to
have
pre‐programmed
controllers
built
or
for

turbo
controllers.

In
order
to
create
this
you
need
to
have
a
somewhat
basic

understanding
of
soldering.

Please
review
this
tutorial
before
attempting
it.

I
am
not
responsible
for
any
damage
caused
to
your
Playstation
3

controller
or
Playstation
3
system.



Tools:

‐ Solder
Gun

‐ Solder

‐ Wire
(I
believe
I
used
30
AWG)

‐ Wire
Cutter

‐ Tape
(Recommended)

‐ Hot
Glue
Gun
+
Hot
Glue
(Recommended)













Last
updated:
11/10/08

Supplies:

1)
555
Timer
IC
(I
recommend
using
the
TLC
Low
Power
kind
because

the
regular
one
is
known
to
cause
problems
while
charging
or
if
the

battery
is
full)‐
$1.69

2)
10k
ohm
resistor
(R1)(Brown
Black
Orange
Gold)
‐
$0.69

3)
56k
ohm
resistor
(R2)(5
Pack)(Green
Blue
Orange
Gold)
‐
$0.69

4)
1.0
uF
Electrolytic
Capacitor
(C1)
‐
$1.19

5)
.01
uF
Polyester
Film
Capacitor
(C2)
‐
$1.49

6)
NPN
Transistor
(15
pack)
‐
$2.59

7)
Momentary
Switch
‐
$2.69

Price:
$11.03

Total
+
Tax:
$12.00

I
recommend
you
buy
the
100‐pack
of
resistors
because
it
can
be
a
little

difficult
to
find
the
56k
resistors
otherwise.

‐
$6.49
(Has
both
10k
and

56k
resistors)

Preparation:
Take
apart
the
controller

Step
1)
Place
timer
upside‐down
and
connect
7+8
using
R1
(10k)




Step
2)
Connect
6+7
using
R2
(56k)

 Step
3)
Connect
6+1
with
C1
(1uF)
































 Step
4)
Connect
5+1
with
C2
(.01uF)
















 Step
5)
Connect
4+8
with
a
small
wire







































 Step
6)
Connect
2+6
with
a
small
wire



































 Step
7)
Connect
the
Transistor
Base
(center
pin
usually)
to
3
and

bend
other
two
prongs
forward




































 

 Step
8)
Attach
a
wire
to
Point
1
and
another
one
to
Point
2



WARNING:
Place
a
piece
of
tape
on
top
of
the
chip
next
to
the

points.
If
you
decide
not
too
and
accidentally
get
solder
on
the

chip,
your
controller
will
be
permanently
ruined.



D































Dualshock3
UPDATE
–
Here
are
some
clearer
pictures
of
the
motherboards.






Dualshock
3



 Step
9)
Connect
a
wire
to
the
ground(‐)
of
the
battery
and

connect
a
switch
to
the
positive(+)
of
the
battery
(+‐‐‐‐‐switch‐‐‐‐‐
‐).



WARNING:
Be
careful
not
to
connect
the
+
and
–
of
the
battery

with
solder.
If
you
do,
carefully
attempt
to
remove
excess
solder.

Step
10)
Connect
Point
1
and
Point
2
to
the
remaining
two
legs
of

the
transistor

Step
11)
Connect
the
+
of
the
battery
with
the
switch
to
8
on
the

timer
and
the
–
of
the
battery
to
1
of
the
timer

 Step
12)
Drill
a
hole
in
the
controller
for
the
button
and
insert
it
in









































 

 

Step
13)
(Ironically
enough)
Test
your
controller
while
it
is
still

not
put
together.
Hopefully
everything
should
work.
If
not,
make

sure
all
the
correct
connections
are
made
and
make
sure
you

followed
everything
CAREFULLY!





Here
is
the
video
of
me
testing
the
controller
directly
after
what

you
saw
in
the
pictures:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2G883V4VfA







Step
14)
Bend
everything
connected
to
the
timer
to
be
as
small
as

possible
without
making
any
unwanted
connections.
Be
careful

not
to
break
any
connections
either.
(I
recommend
testing
it

quickly
again)



If
you
have
a
Dualshock3
you
may
need
to
remove
the
right
side

vibration
motor
(unless
your
confident
you
can
fit
everything

without
removing
it
which
is
unlikely).
Otherwise
just
place
all
the

electronics
in
the
right
handle.





Step
15)
Put
it
all
back
together
and
test
it
one
more
time.



Here’s
the
video
of
me
testing
it
after
everything
was
put
back

together:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQ3Ut14lThU



If
everything
tested
correctly
then:


Congratulations!
You
have
a
new
Rapid
Fire
Controller!





Frequently
Asked
Questions

Q)
My
character
seems
to
looks
(or
move)
down
and
to
the
right,
how

do
I
fix
it?

A)
This
problem
occurs
mainly
with
the
copper
boards.
Thanks
to
DLoc

there
seems
to
be
a
solution.
Set
up
your
wires
like
so:




This
method
has
not
been
tested
by
me
due
to
a
lack
of
a
copper

controller
at
the
moment.
I
have
experienced
this
problem
and
used
a

similar
solution
to
fix
it.
A
couple
of
other
recommendations
would
be
to

put
electrical
tape
under
all
the
areas
where
the
wires
are
touching
as

they
may
be
causing
interference.
This
solution
seems
to
still
have

problems
when
the
controller
battery
is
full.
After
an
hour
or
so
of

playing
it
may
start
moving
again,
DLoc
states
to
shut
off
the
controller

and
turn
it
back
on.



Q)
Can
I
do
this
on
other
buttons
besides
the
R1
button?

A)
Yes.
It’s
not
in
this
tutorial
but
if
you
know
the
proper
connections

you
can
switch
the
two
touch
points
to
whichever
one
you
need.





Q)
Is
there
any
way
to
keep
the
Dualshock
vibration
in?

A)
Trust
me,
I
have
tried.
The
timer
circuitry
can
fit
with
the
vibration

but
the
momentary
switch
will
not.
If
you
get
a
small
tactile
switch
it

may
be
possible
but
I
doubt
it.



Q)
I
didn’t
put
the
tape
and
got
solder
on
the
legs
of
the
chip
next
to
the

touch
points,
what
can
I
do?

A)
Told
ya
so.
Credits:

GBlaster
–
Creator

SykoXhitman
–
Photography

xXNasticoNXx
(Xbox
360)
–
Assisting
in
development
process

Mr.
Eld0r
–
Promised
he’d
be
in
the
credits



Update
–

tapdisbong
–
New
motherboard
pictures

DLoc
–
Copper
motherboard
solution



And
of
course
all
the
people
that
supported
me!