The Real Argentina

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W i n e - T r ave l - C u l t u r e - Fo o d !

Best of 2013 !

Argentinas Top Sommeliers!

By Sorrel Moseley-Williams, 3 April 2013
As grape harvests across Mendoza, Patagonia and the northwest provinces are in full motion, that can only mean one thing: its time for a new batch of wines to start reaching store shelves and restaurant cavas. And who can we trust for a solid opinion on floral aromas and tobacco notes? Sommeliers, thats who. Some of Argentinas top wine experts already established or coming through the ranks talk about their work in this flourishing industry.
Love at First Sight
Agustina de Alba was chosen as Argentinas best sommelier in 2012 for the second consecutive year by the AAS and she works for Aramburu restaurant. So many times over the years, when Ive handed over the wine list to customers, theyve asked me: are you the sommelier?. I reply yes, and they continue, but youre young. How old are you? In the beginning, I used to say 18, today I say 25 but the question is always: why did you decide to become a sommelier at such a young age?

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A Natural Path
Paz Levinson (34) was Argentinas candidate for the 14eme Concours A.S.I. du Meilleur Sommelier du Monde in Tokyo 2013 and reached the semi-finals. She was AAAs best sommelier in 2010, works at Nectarine and teaches at CAVE. My father is from Mendoza, and my grandfather was born in San Carlos in the middle of the Uco Valley, so my relationship with wine was very natural my parents drink a glass of wine at every meal. I became a sommelier when I was studying Literature. I had to get a job to support my studies, and I worked at Rest for five years, where I grew as a waiter first and head sommelier later. The most surprising thing about being a sommelier is that there is always something new to learn: new regions, wines, winemakers. You also learn a lot about human relations: how to work with people and develop the skills necessary to ensure a fantasti c experi ence for customers. The sensory aspect is also amazing I work with the senses and I teach others how to use them to appreciate wine. I like to travel, and right now Im in China one thing that brought me here is my interest in exploring the wine scene in Asia. By meeting people and making connections, I sometimes feel like a bridge. I never could have imagined how my life would turn out, but it involves the best things: travel, teaching, tasting and (without the letter T) learning!

Agustina outside Aramburu restaurant; photo courtesy of Agustina de Alba. Back in 2003, my parents had just split up and my dad decided that I would choose where we went on holiday. I decided on Mendoza, because a boy I had a crush on was going there. We arrived in the middle of harvest on 14 February. I didnt know anything about wine, and my dad didnt drink it. On the first day, our city tour was cancelled and to replace it, we were offered a tour of Bodega La Rural. Off we went, and and I was captivated by the countryside: the mountains, sun, nature. It was all so pure, and I thought: I want to live here. As soon as we got there, we were invited to visit the Museo del Vino, which was Don Felipe Rutinis family home, founder of the winery in 1865. It was love at first sight, and the more we saw, the more questions I asked, and the more I wanted to know. So the guide offered me the enologists email. And I took it! In the meantime, my dad was waiting for me, sitting under a tree. Evidently, the same emotion hadnt struck us both Back in school, we were asked what we wanted to be when we grew up. Most said doctors, architects, and I said I wanted to connect with wine. My classmates looked at me weirdly and called me a drunk. However, one teacher was listening and said I should be a sommelier. Hed just finished a course at Escuela Argentina de Sommeliers (EAS) and had plenty of material, and the next day he lent me his study plans. I was so enthusiastic, I said: this is what I want to do! In a professional capacity, Ive had various bosses over the years and two have marked a before and an after in my career. One of those is Gonzalo Aramburu I dont think theres anybody quite like him, with such pure talent, who knows what he is doing, and for more than knowing how to choose his team and trust each one of us. When it comes to selecting wines, Im lucky enough to have plenty of freedom, and can choose wines we like that represent Argentina. Im always looking for hidden gems, and as Aramburus tasting menu changes each season, the wine list changes as well. Thats the main reason I look for authentic (fine and rare) wines that emphasize the menus different textures and flavours, and vice-versa. The best thing about being a sommelier is that its the best excuse for travelling around the world, and wine connects you with people and cultures that I never would have imagined Id meet or visit and all thanks to choosing this marvellous profession that I love!

Curious by Nature

Paz Levinson; photo courtesy of Paz Levinson.

Sebastin Maggi is beverages manager and sommelier at Four Seasons Hotel, and previously worked at Sucre and LAbeille. He teaches at EAS and CAVE. My first job was as a bartender when I was 19 and since then, Ive always been involved with wine and spirits. From the beginning, curiosity drove me to try new beverages every time I had an opportunity, and this encouraged me to try to understand the differences between one product and another or what parameters defined quality aside from personal preferences. First I was curious about learning more about every product I offered at the bar, and wine, whisky and beer represented the biggest challenge. And before I knew it, I ended up getting involved in the operation of a huge cellar and tasting every day for a local guide of wines. A s a s o m m e l i e r I e n j o y creating new experiences for customers, broadening their palates and helping them leave their comfort zone to try new and exciting things, making them feel that this is not only a food and beverage industry, but entertainment too. Having the same food or drink over again is boring, so I understand my job is to change that and encourage people to experience something new.

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Sebastin Maggi; photo courtesy of Sebastin Maggi.

A Peoples Man
Martn Bruno (30), following two years at Hernn Gipponi Restaurant at the Fierro Hotel, is now in charge of wines at brand-new bar and restaurant Florera Atlntico. I started my career as a bartender, with cantinero Fede Cuco. Then I went to New Zealand for two years and tended the bar at the Boardwalk Seafood Restaurant in Queenstown. The restaurant had a very good wine list and thats where I really got into wine. I decided to become a sommelier because first, I like wine a lot and second, its a great way to relate with a lot of awesome people. When we were working on the wine selection for Florera Atlntico with Julin Daz (from 878) we picked wines we really like. We also chose wines that we find interesting, with a focus on quality and value. Working with [AAS president] Andrs Rosberg at Fierro Hotel has been a great experience, and we are very like-minded in the type of wines we enjoy. The best thing about being a sommelier is certainly the wine, but also the great people you meet you always learn something from them and the very good friends I have made working in this industry.

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I decided to become a sommelier because rst, I like wine a lot and second, its a great way to relate with a lot of awesome people.

Martn Bruno; photo courtesy of Martn Bruno.

You get to know yourself better when you nd smells, textures and avours you like.

Perfect Sense
Matas Prezioso (26) has worked at Aldos Vinoteca y Restorn, and Peruvian restaurant Sipan as well as for online wine list Entaste. Although my family has never been involved in wine or gastronomy, my interest began when I went to London to study English. I was amazed by the vast number of offerings available. When I returned to Buenos Aires, I undertook a few wine courses and began a sommelier course at EAR while studying for a degree in Political Science. But a few months later, I dropped my serious degree to concentrate on wine. One aspect to our work is the attention ones body gives over to all the senses, so you get to know yourself better when you find smells, textures and flavours you like. You always need to read up on or check out new wineries and emerging regions, so one is continually on the move.

Matas Prezioso; photo courtesy of Matas Prezioso.

I was an assessor at Sipan, which was interesting as I selected all the wine and trained waiting staff. The thenowner Jos Castro Mendivil gave me the confidence and freedom to work according to my own convictions. Ive also been the manager of Aldos, so I learnt directly about wine from Aldo Graziani himself. You live and breathe wine there. The latest list I compiled is for a new restaurant and wine bar in New York called Malbec-Tango House. I noticed that consumers are tired of woody Chardonnays and are looking to take risks, so logically Ive included a greater number of Argentine wines.

Emotions, Feelings and Memories

Martn Krawczyk (25) has worked at Mansin Vitraux Boutique Hotel & Spa and for Entaste, and was a finalist in the Best Sommelier of Argentina 2012 contest. I started my relationship with wine a few years ago, on a trip to Mendoza when I was 15. One activity was visiting a winery (without tasting any wines, though!). Something stayed in my mind and after going to tastings and taking short courses, I decided to make it my career. At the end of the day, a favourite wine is about emotions. And so, emotions, feelings and memories are what some wines are associated to. Its all about our personal experience, and in my case, it is usually related to trips, a place I visited, or wines I have enjoyed with someone special. You remember those moments, and so you like to remember them with the opportunity of uncorking another bottle of that wine. Martn Krawczyk; photo courtesy of Martn Krawczyk. The best thing about being a sommelier is being in touch with people from all around the world, and given the fact that many of those times are over a glass of wine, it is like heaven on earth for me.

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Top 10 Curious Facts ! About Argentina Wine!

By Andrew Catchpole, 6 November 2013
10. A Slumbering Giant
Few people beyond South American shores realise that Argentina is the fifth biggest wine producer in the world, making myriad varieties from vineyards that stretch from lofty Salta in the North West to the windswept river valleys of Patagonia in the south. From aromatic, spicy Torronts to supple Pinot Noirs, by way of Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon, plus up-and-coming grapes such as Bonarda and Tempranillo, Argentinas rich heritage of vines delivers a surprising wealth of styles.

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9. Not So New World

Spanish missionaries planted the first vitis vinifera (winemaking) grapes in Argentina as long ago as 1551, with cuttings planted around monasteries to provide (initially) communion wine. At this time the Medoc in Bordeaux was still marshland, Rioja had barely been heard of beyond its borders and port and Sherry in their current form had yet to be invented

8. A Head for Heights

Across most of the world it is too cold for grapes to ripen at 900 meters altitude, but in Mendoza, Argentinas principle quality region, this is the average vineyard height, with the quality-focused Uco Valley rising to 1,200 meters and more 125 meters higher than Britains highest peak Snowdonia. Argentina also boasts the highest commercial vineyard in the world in Salta at 3,000 meters.

A Malbec vineyard planted in 2004; photo by James Kibbey.

4. Disease Free Vines

In France a nasty root-attacking louse called phylloxera decimated vineyards in the 1870s and led to the demise of once sought after Malbec in Bordeaux, which was deemed too unproductive commercially to replant. The vast majority of French (and European) vines are now grafted onto phylloxera-resistant American rootstocks, but this is not so in Argentine soils, where this devastating pest has never really taken hold, meaning that Argentina is now a repository of the finest Malbec vines in the world.

3. Rewind Back to the Future

With the growing popularity of Malbec worldwide, Argentina now exports Malbec to the vines old home of France, where vignerons in Cahors (where it is traditionally know as Cot) and Bordeaux have been busy planting Argentine plants in French soils.

High altitude vineyards near the Andes; photo by James Kibbey.

7. A Desert Oasis
Mendoza and its vine strewn environs may be a green and pleasant land, but both city and province are in fact an oasis in the midst of a harsh desert landscape that receives less than 200mm of rain a year. The fertile land you see is made possible by water channels created by early settlers and which deliver melt water runoff from the snow-clad Andes. Today, more modern boreholes contribute too, tapping into the underground Andean water table.

6. A Modern Wine Industry is Born

Malbec, Argentinas de facto flagship grape variety, arrived in Argentina from France during the 1850s, along with a host of French and other European grape varieties. The vines were shipped across the Atlantic by a French agronomist, Michel A. Pouget, at the behest of Domingo Faustino Sarmiento who, in 1853 vowed to transform the quality of Argentinas wine industry.

Malbec grapes in Mendoza; photo by James Kibbey.

2. Mysterious Torronts
For many, Torronts is a love it or leave it variety, offering an enticing and curious mix of aromatic and spicy character somewhere between Viognier and Gewurtztraminer, but with an unmistakable personality of its own. Its origins may remain uncertain, despite DNA testing, but this personalitypacked variety has rapidly risen to become Argentinas flagship white variety and rightly so.

5. Saved from Obscurity

Incredibly, given the ever growing global popularity and recognition of Malbec today, plantings of Malbec vines declined from 50,000ha in the 1960s to 10,000ha by the early 1980s as a combination of Argentine preference for white wines, along with a general grubbing up of unprofitable vines including Malbec, left the variety languishing as an also ran. By the turn of this decade, however, planting had risen to almost 30,000ha as Malbec reasserted itself and this time on the world stage.

1. One Grape, One World

Malbec World Day on 17 April celebrates the date when the aforementioned Domingo Faustino Sarmiento vowed to transform the Argentine wine industry. In three short years this has grown to become a global event, with 2013 finding 142 events being organised in 68 cities in 43 countries, bringing together street art, musicians, street food and much more for the worlds biggest celebration of a grape variety.

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The Unique Boutique Hotels! of Buenos Aires!

By Sophie Lloyd, 2 August 2013
When it comes to finding suitable lodgings in Buenos Aires, youre spoilt for choice, from ritzy five-star hotel chains to innumerable boutique establishments. However its sometimes hard to distinguish one trendy establishment from the next. For those looking for something a little more out of the ordinary, weve picked out some of the most unique boutique hotels in the city, all with a different vibe, story or experience to offer.
The Budget Boutique: Pop Hotel

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Pop Hotel pioneers the boutique hotel on a shoestring trend. While its the more economical option in the city, it doesnt forgo on style, comfort or character. As you might guess from the name, theres a fun retro pop theme going on in the decor with pops of bright colour and lively wall patterns. And the 44 modern rooms are all equipped with plasma TVs, iPod docks and kitchenettes. Outside of your room, you can divide your time between the hotels three lounges: the Library lounge, the Business Lounge and the Movies lounge. While the hotel doesnt serve breakfast, there are vending machines for your express needs and its Villa Crespo location means its just a hop, skip and a jump away from a myriad of cafes and restaurants. Juan Ramirez de Velasco 793 Villa Crespo +54 11 4776 6900 www.pophotelsbuenosaires.com

The concept of a themed hotel is not everyones cup of tea, indeed very few peoples cup of tea, but boutique hotel Legado Mtico manages to pull it off in a way that doesnt make you cringe, while teaching you a thing or two about Argentinas storied past. The hotel pays homage to famous people in Argentine history and has named and styled each of its 11 hotel rooms after a different key figure in time with photographs, books and other memorabilia. All the usual suspects are present such as La Primera Dama Eva Pern, El Idealista Ernesto Che Guevara y El Tanguero Carlos Gardel, El Escritor Jorge Luis Borges and El Gaucho Martin Fierro. After a day of sightseeing, you can settle down in the hotels well stocked library and bury your head in a cultural book or soak up some sunshine on the pretty terrace and take advantage of the hotels well stocked bar. Gurruchaga 1848 Palermo Soho +54 11 4833 1300 www.legadomitico.com

The Themed Hotel: Legado Mtico

The Insiders Club: Hub Porteo

Stay at the Hub Porteo and youll get the up-to-the-minute inside scoop on what to do in the city thanks to its well connected founder Gonzalo Robredo and his little black book of contacts. The boutique hotel that recently opened in October 2012 is housed in a beautiful old Recoleta town house and goes above and beyond the services expected from a hotel working with a team of local experts to offer unique, tailor-made experiences according to each individual guests interests and requests be it tango, food, polo, history or all four. Each of the 11 palatial rooms are beautifully outfitted with antique furniture and hand-crafted pieces from local artisans as well as a Nespresso machine, giant Jacuzzi baths and iPads this summer the hotel is even launching its very own app. Theres also a stylish roof terrace with vertical garden, cocktail bar and the much-talked-about restaurant Tarquino run by famed Chef Dante Liporace touted for his nouveau Argentine cuisine. Once the hotel staff have got you on the list for some exclusive VIP event in the city, you can call on the 24-hour chauffeur (whos also a PHD student) to take you there. Rodriguez Pea 1967 Recoleta +54 11 3220 6600 www.hubporteno.com

Well let you into a secret. Theres a new concept on the Buenos Aires closed door scene. First there were closed-door bars and restaurants, then shops and galleries, and now theres a secret B&B. The 5th Floor, due to open at the end of August 2013, is hidden away on the top two floors of a 1930s Art Deco-style building in the Alto Palermo neighbourhood. The space was initially built as a Petit Hotel for the original owner of the building and then owned by a now 90-year-old psychiatrist who lived and worked there with her family of psychiatrists (and still practises today). And now British-born expat Miles Lewis has gutted and renovated the place to create what he describes as a boutique B&B, with a little help from interior designer Susan Kennedy and her partner and furniture designer Marcelo Liska, who are also the owners of The Chipper, Palermo Hollywoods local fish and chip shop. Every statement lighting fixture (a particular favourite of Miles), chair and other decorative item has been carefully selected to match the Art Deco feel already present in the grandiose marble winding staircase that won awards back in the day and stained glass windows. Miles, who is also training to be a chef, wants to offer a luxury home away from home where guests will be treated to full cooked breakfasts in the morning (real bacon and sausages included) and complimentary happy hour cocktails on the terrace with Miles and his friends in the evening as well as the odd pop up dining event and Argentine asado on the beautiful terrace out back. (opens end of August 2013) Address provided on request + 54 9 11 2181 8574 the5thfloorba.wordpress.com

The Secret B&B: Fifth Floor

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The Best Places to Pamper! Yourself in Buenos Aires!

By Sophie Lloyd, 29 August 2013
After a long day of sightseeing around the big, grimy city of Buenos Aires, youre probably in need of a pick me up, something that involves either being sat or reclined for a few hours and hitting your off switch before the night time activities commence (be warned: Buenos Aires is a city that never sleeps). Relax and get groomed, primped and preened at one of these pampering establishments.
Lather Up
In the modern day era of portable electric razors, shaving has become a five-minute morning job carried out while simultaneously drinking your morning coffee and combing your hair. But back in the day, it was a longdrawn-out masculine ritual performed down at the local barbershop. This tradition lives on in the historical Barbera La poca in the heart of the residential Caballito neighbourhood. Men can go in for a traditional hottowel straight razor shave and some man time. Settle back in your reclining leather chair, order a little tipple (since the place is also a bar) and put the world right with your waistcoated barber as he applies steaming white towels to your face and neck and brushes foamy soap onto your face before skilfully removing your five oclock shadow in slow sweeping strokes with a blade. Go with time on your hands and soak up the authentic age-old surroundings. And if you go late afternoon on a Friday, you might also catch a live tango show while youre there. Barbera La poca Guayaquil 877, Caballito

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Photo courtesy of Faena Hotel + Universe.

Turkish Delight

A dip in the Faena Hotel + Universes steam bath and youll feel like a new person. The glitzy boutique hotel in Puerto Madero is home to a luxuriant Turkish-style hammam done out in marble. Clear your passageways with the eucalyptus-infused vapour and people-watch in the candlelight as the spa is known to attract the whos who of Buenos Aires. Faena Hotel + Universe Martha Salotti 445, Puerto Madero

Knead to Relax?

Photo courtesy of Barbera La poca.

The best remedy for tired feet and a stiff neck and shoulders? A massage of course. And massage therapist Jennifer Kleuppel, a Canadian expat and cofounder of the tranquil Buenos Aires Life Centre, has gifted hands that will relieve aches and niggling knots and tend to any specific ailments you may have. She specialises in Swedish-style remedial massage therapy and offers 60 or 90 minutes sessions. The holistic centre tucked away in a well-lit Recoleta apartment also offers acupuncture and yoga classes. Buenos Aires Life Centre French 2647, Alto Palermo

Unwind Argentine Style

Your body is treated like a temple at The Spa at the Four Seasons Hotel. The no-expense-spared establishment in the smart Recoleta district reopens next month (and if the other recent hotel renovations are anything to go by, it promises to be opulent with a capital O). Of the first-class treatments on offer, we recommend doing it Argentine style with the Porteo Tango, a hot-stone massage thats rhythmically performed in time with the beats of tango music and designed to alleviate stress using products infused with Argentinas other passion in life, red wine. Alternatively, you can travel to Patagonia and back again with the Discovering Argentina treatment whereby your body becomes a map of Argentina and the various products and techniques bestowed on different areas reflect the climates of the different regions: your lower body is subject to the cold of Patagonia in the south while your upper body receives a warm nourishing back mask made from yerba mate that represents the warmer northern regions. Following your treatment, relax with a cocktail in the hotels uber-trendy Pony Line Bar. Four Seasons Hotel Spa Posadas 1086/88, Recoleta

Photo courtesy of Buenos Aires Life Centre. If youd prefer the massage to come to you, call on physical therapist Nicola Stolar Tarbuck to visit you in your place of lodging. Her magic hands and healing powers have treated many a celebrity both in the UK and Argentina. She also specialises in Thai Reiki, yoga and pilates. Nicola Stolar Tarbuck tarby37@gmail.com Phone: +54 11 666 168 36

A Cut Above
Getting your hair cut, styled or coloured in a foreign country can be a traumatic experience due to the language barrier hand gestures dont always get the right message across. To avoid any potential hair disasters, pay a visit to Irish-born expat Terrie Orr who welcomes clients into her cozy Belgrano apartment and tidies up their tresses from the comfort of her front room. Shes become a well-known figure on the expat scene and her scissor and styling skills are in high demand so be sure to book in advance. While youre there, you can also get her to tame, tease and tint your unruly eyebrows using the latest HD Brow techniques (that are all the rage at the moment). Shes also got her finger firmly on the pulse and can give you plenty of tips on what to see and do while youre in Buenos Aires. BA Hairdresser, Terrie Orr terrie.orr@googlemail.com (address given out on request)

Photo courtesy of The Spa at Four Seasons Buenos Aires.

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Staying Fit in Buenos Aires!

By Allie Lazar, 16 August 2013
While most porteos love to eat cow, very few actually look like one. Just because you are visiting the land of beef, wine and 5am Fernet binges, doesnt mean youll have to pack on the carb-ed out kilos. The Argentine lifestyle may look like a dieters worst nightmare, with red meat a plenty, empanadas galore, extra cheese on the side and a never-ending glass of overflowing Malbec, this weight and appearance conscious city continues to bring their sexy back and stay fit. Whether youre a gym rat, health nut, yogi or looking to boot camp your butt into shape, we are on a mission to find the skinny on the best ways to combat those extra Palermo pounds, blast that hot (or not) body into shape and stay fit in Buenos Aires.
Look (and Feel) Good Naked with Vitruvian
Crazy Crossfit addicts, you are in luck the trainers at Vitruvian are here to burpee your bum until it hurts. Started in 2011 by man of steel and New York City native Max Rodman, this intense and rewarding group fitness program is all about physical (and mental) results: short intense workouts that aim to improve endurance, strength, speed, coordination and power. Super affordable at only 30 pesos per session, classes are taught by skilled instructors from Argentina and the United States and held almost every day in the Palermo and Recoleta parks. Their motto is simple: Look Good Naked. For more information, contact Vitruvian BA.

Culture!

Set table at Jueves a la Mesa; photo by Allie Lazar.

You are what you eat: Eat healthy, feel healthy

Argentina might not be known for its healthy fare, but Buenos Aires has started to cater to a more natural eating audience, with great lighter options changing the way BA does dining. You no longer have to compromise on wearing elastic wasted trousers to eat well; head out to one of these spots that actually taste good, without reaching quadruple-digit caloric damage. A vegetarian delight private dining supper club, Thursday nights are for Jueves a la mesa, a verdulera (vegetable shop) to table home cooked social dining experience. For a more casual lunch, Palermo Hollywoods Smooothway (Soler 6036) and Buenos Aires Verde (Gorriti 5657) bring ultra fresh organic-ness to the porteo capital, steering clear of any preservatives or additives.

Pull-ups in the park; photo courtesy of Vitruvian.

Storm a local cancha and partake in your own social game of Argentinas favorite pastime.!
Run, Jog, Walk, Roll
Despite narrow sidewalks, chimney smoking buses, and golden mountains of dog excrement, Buenos Aires has great running paths. Head out to the Bosques de Palermo, where runners have over 25 hectares of parks of perfect running trails, or the Costanera Surs Ecological Reserve that is equipped with a looping path. If you are into running solo, perhaps jog on one of these running trails, or if you are more into a group running club, there are plenty of running groups in the city. For those who are more inclined in a social running club, join Buenos Aires Hash House Harriers, a drinking club with a running problem.

Photo courtesy of Buenos Aires Football Amigos.

Channel your inner Messi with Buenos Aires Ftbol Amigos

While witnessing a Boca or River match is on most travelers Buenos Aires tourist bucket list, not many visitors get the chance to storm a local cancha and partake in their own social game of Argentinas favorite pastime. Organized by a group of locals and expats, Buenos Aires Ftbol Amigos (BAFA) brings ftbol, football and soccer lovers of all backgrounds and skillsets together for a friendly yet competitive game. While football matches are held weekly in San Telmo and Palermo, BAFA also organizes tournaments, social events and fun activities (like Buenos Aires seasonal Activity Day). For more information, contact Buenos Aires Ftbol Amigos.

Running in Bosque, Photo by Foto Ruta.

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Culture!

Buena Onda Yoga; photo courtesy of Livia de Castro.

Its good to shine from the inside.!

Good Mood Sun Salutations with Buena Onda Yoga

Its good to shine from the inside. This is what Buena Onda Yoga is all about, a down to earth yoga studio that actually practices what it preaches. Taught (mostly in English) by a crew of skilled and inspiring instructors, group classes for all levels are designed to energize the mind, body, and spirit. Yoga classes combine vinyasa flow, an intense workout that combines a series of slowing postures with deep breathing with Iyengar yoga, which pays close attention to alignment, detail and breath control. Buena Onda Yoga also organizes workshops led by special guests, yoga retreats, moonlight yoga and pilates-dance combo classes. To become a member, contact Buena Onda Yoga.

Costanera Norte biking tour; photo courtesy of Biking BA.

Andar en Bici es Mejor

Treadmills at Megatlon; photo courtesy of Megatlon.

Buenos Aires Gyms

With at least a handful of work out centers in every neighborhood, its no challenge finding a gym in BA the difficult part will be finding one you like. Larger citywide chains like Megatlon, Sports Club, Well Club tend to be the more modernly equipped gyms with full cardio rooms, weight lifting facilities, swimming pools and a full schedule of classes like Spinning, Zumba and Pilates, but cost a hefty price when becoming a member on a month to month basis (although many offer free weekly trials). Smaller neighborhood gyms are perfect for the class lover or the no fuss workerouter, with a handful of treadmills, some free weights and classes galore. Word to the wise: Dont be alarmed by the abundance of mirrors, Profesores (trainers) going in for the sweaty kiss salutation, matching Adidas or Nike jumpsuits, or women with flawless makeup who dont seem to break a sweat thats all perfectly normal.

A few years ago it was almost a death wish to ride a bike in Buenos Aires, with very few bikes paths and even less street cred given to cyclists. But luckily the city has begun to encourage more environmentally friendly forms of public transportation, especially with government ecobici programs like the bright yellow bikes: free hour-long bike borrowing program. The yellow bike stations are strategically placed across the city, generally along the newly constructed bicisendas (bike lanes) and are open to the public. For tourists and travelers looking to pedal forward touring Buenos Aires on two wheels, ride along with Biking Buenos Aires to discover the city from a different view. This award winning city tour offers four different sightseeing tour routes, where riders can take off on their bicis to uncover the entire city. Contact Biking Buenos Aires for more information.

Palermo bosque post work out sun bathe; photo by Foto Ruta.

Popping & Locking at Dance&Move

Boot Camp push-up high-fives; photo courtesy of Boot Camp BA.

Work it Out, Boot Camp BA Style

Professional or amateur dancers looking for a fun groove-busting workout, body roll over the Dance&Move, a dance studio with classes for all ages and skill levels. Whether youre into Hip Hop, Lyrical Jazz, Contemporary or Breakdancing, you can probably find a style for you at this Chacarita spot. And after you work up a sweat whats better than getting a caffeine jolt at Full City Coffee House for one of the best coffees in the city, which is conveniently located directly downstairs. For more information contact Dance&Move Studio.

Make your body suffer (in a good way) with Boot Camp Buenos Aires, a hardcore intense training program that uses the city as your outdoor gym. These group outdoor sessions in Palermo and Puerto Madero incorporate strength and resistance training, cardio conditioning and calisthenic exercises to enhance overall fitness levels. Unlike other training programs, theres no need for a long time commitment, boot campers can pay per session (US$12), or opt for a two-week (US$45) or monthly membership (US$60). For more information, check out Boot Camp Buenos Aires.

Some Me Time at Buenos Aires Life Centre

With the hectic bustle of the big capital city, sometimes its important to find some internal balance, centering the mind, body and spirit. A holistic haven for English speakers in Argentina, Buenos Aires Life Centre is a wellness center offering group and private yoga classes by Happy Sun Yoga, workshops, massage therapy, reiki, acupuncture, and nutrition and health counseling. Its like your go-to one stop kiosco shop for your inner self. For more information contact BA Life Centre.

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Argentinian Culture ! Around the World!

By Vicky Baker, 8 January 2013
If youre not lucky enough to be in Argentina right now, and youre longing for some authentic Argentinian culture, what do you do? Traditionally, you head for the nearest themed steakhouse, which is now almost as prevalent around the world as the Irish pub.
Thats a very fine place to start, but is the sum of Argentina made up only by parts of a cow? A boom in tourism in the early 2000s plus a simultaneous wave of post-crisis emigration from Argentina to Europe and the US has led to a more amplified understanding of the Argentinian way of life. From music and drinks to film and dance, heres our look at Argentinas growing influence abroad.

Culture!

Drinks
Fernet may have been invented in Italy as a herbal digestif, but it was hardly the youngsters choice before Argentinians added a dash of Coca Cola and adopted it as their unofficial national drink. With rumours that it minimises hangovers, could it be the next big global party drink? If Jgerbombs took off, surely there is room for one more odd, medicinaltasting alcohol on the market? After all, its already popular in San Francisco since gaining popularity during the Prohibition. At SFs Bullitt bar (2209 Polk St), you can even find fernet on tap. Washington DC cocktail bar The Passenger is also getting through it by the crate load, as is Bar Sif in Barcelona. Then, there is Londons Moo Grill, which has just opened new premises in Aldgate and decided to take things up a notch by offering fernet cocktails. Fernet cocktails?! Apparently thats exactly what the incredulous barman said when he was asked by the boss to come up with a new spin on the drink, but the inventive results are surprisingly good. For added fun, they also do a fine Bloody Mary, given an extra kick with a dash of chimichurri. Londoners can also check out Galante, a swish new Argentinian cocktail bar in South Kensington. Chancha Via Circuito performs his digi-cumbia at Atwater Crossing in Los Angeles; photo by trontnort. But its not all tango. Argentina is also setting out to rival Canadas Cirque du Soleil with the incredible performances of its theatre and acrobatics troop, FuerzaBruta. Having just completed a run on Broadway, they are currently performing at Londons Roundhouse. And what about electro cumbia? Despite plenty of pushes in the worldwide press, it hasnt quite taken off on a global scale. Maybe 2013 will be its year? Quick, someone invent a horse-inspired dance to go with it. Oppan Boca-style!

Film
Argentina has been churning out top-notch movies for many years, but the Oscar won by El Secreto de sus Ojos certainly helped to raise the countrys profile. Ricardo Darins next vehicle, Carancho, was also highly acclaimed by foreign reviewers, while Las Acacias went on to pick up a handful of gongs in Cannes. Los Angeles now hosts a showcase of Argentinian film every year, and London and Sydney/Melbourne inaugurated their own Argentinian film festivals in 2012. Our own Sorrel Moseley-Williams offers a few more indie film tips here.

Music and Dance

Tango is, of course, Argentinas other big export, reaching from Ta l l i n n t o To k y o . Ta n g o w a s pioneered in 1920s Japan by a man known as Baron Megata who had picked up the steps in Paris. He kicked off a huge scene that still goes strong today and even inspired a song Lo de Megata. His tale is told in this video and in this article, which also tells the intriguing story of a Japanese tango singer in Argentina who couldnt speak Spanish so sung phonetically.

A Fernet Alexander cocktail created in New Orleans; photo by Kevin OMara.

An authentic empanada in San Francisco; photo by Shockingly Tasty. Food

Buenos Aires Bakery in Miami; photo by Danny Delgado.

So if we continue to look beyond steak for a moment here, what are we left with? Plenty. In London, Garufin an offshoot of the established Garufa steakhouse is offering something more unusual by embracing regional dishes and more hands-on snacks, including ox and tripe empanadas. Theres also the award-winning empanada joint in San Francisco, El Porteo, or the well-loved Buenos Aires Bakery & Cafe in Miami, for all your medialuna and dulce de leche needs. The area known as Little Buenos Aires in Miami deserves a special mention in itself. Anyone missing Argentina can find the next best thing in this little enclave, where constant cries of boludo! and mir vos greet your ears as you stroll along the beachfront. And if, after all that, you still crave that special beef, rest assured. You can find a Argentinian steakhouse almost anywhere, from Bangkok to Reykjavik.

Tango dancers in Tokyo; photo by Masao.

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The Top 10 Restaurants ! in Mendoza!

By Sorrel Moseley-Williams, 9 May 2013

Food!

Visitors to Mendoza city and province tend to have their eye on one pressing matter, and one pressing matter only: fermented grape juice. The reputation of Argentinas greatest wine-producing province precedes it, however: its not just Malbec and its sibling varietals that are hogging the spotlight. A host of restaurants in Mendoza are making waves with their gastronomical and enological offerings, from steak flame-grilled seven ways to closed-door establishments and Asian fusion cuisine. If you missed out on the glorious Masters of Food & Wine Mendoza event taking place 1-4 May, never fear you can play catch-up with our lowdown on 10 of the best eateries in and around Mendoza.

Siete Cocinas.

Mara Antonieta.

Nadia OF in Chacras de Coria.

City Slickers
Siete Cocinas is a veritable United Nations under one roof, gastronomically speaking, given chef and owner Pablo Del Ros diverse menu. Offering seven regional cuisines, Del Ros fascinating fare runs the length and breadth of Argentina to include northern provinces Salta and Jujuy, also known as NOA, as well as Andean Patagonia and the Argentine Coast among others, ensuring he uses produce that replicates the different flavours and textures of each. Tuck into pan-fried pac, a river fish caught in La Pampa or a dreamy goats cheese ravioli with sweet almonds and sundried tomatoes, a Cuyo and NOA fusion. Wine is also a serious business check out the cava that doubles as a private dining room for 10. From the hands of Vanina Chimeno comes Mara Antonieta, an essential lesson in casual yet creative cuisine. Catering from breakfast onwards, the style is modern French bistro, the coffee strong and the eggs scrambled, while service is sharp. A prominent downtown location keeps punters ticking over those in the know head there for a juicy lunchtime burger, while a window-side table come nightfall is the place to be. The evening menu goes up several gears starters include a delectable warm bean salad zipped up by courgette flowers and goats cheese tempura fried together, while the main game includes Kobe beef steak and a mouth-watering pork shoulder with crispy pesto. Minor but not irrelevant details: Chimeno is also the other half of Argentine super chef Francis Mallmann, and worked for many years at his 1884 restaurant. Dont let your credit card shy away from a five-star hotel dining experience the Park Hyatt Mendozas Masters of Food & Wine, a four-day gastrotastic event, and of course its own restaurants naturally cut the mustard. Resplendent with an open kitchen so you can see all the action, Bistro M offers a predominantly Italian menu theres more to oquis than potato stuffing here and takes pride in using local ingredients, while a woodfired oven takes charge of meatier affairs such as suckling pig. Service is impeccable, the wine list abundant. Drop by for the 130-peso pick n mix lunch menu. Named after the Spanish for saffron, city staple Azafrn, based in a converted warehouse, is a must for any gourmand. Chef Pablo Raneas culinary imagination has created a menu to accompany Mendozas sacred grape varietals and it comes up smelling of ros. Let a warm camembert with mushrooms wrapped in filo pastry with raspberry sauce whet your taste-buds ahead of kid and mushroom ravioli or the strangely enticing Surf-n-Turf tenderloin steak with prawns and a soy reduction, wasabi mash and sweet chili sauce. Azafrn takes huge pride in its cellar, so be sure to tap into Fernando Szczurowski and Facundo Balverdes expertise, the sommeliers leading the wine charge who also offer tastings. For an Azafrn roundup, try the five-course tasting menu. Tighter budgets should check out the 99-peso lunch menu its a steal.

Out of Town
For the ultimate romantic dinner, head directly to Nadia OF in Chacras de Coria for a dreamy six-course tasting menu that will have you on your knees proposing to Spanish chef and owner Nadia Harn herself. The restored home also houses an intimate back patio complete with herb garden as well as a private dining room, although the former garage with its burgundy walls and candlelit tables is the sexiest spot. Maintaining diners interest by revamping the Spanish-Argentine menu on a weekly basis, Nadia OF also focuses on seasonal changes: autumn months might see a creamy pecorino risotto topped with caviar, while a melon gazpacho with mint and tomato water snow and watermelon juice will cool down overheated palettes in summer. And these dishes look as good as they sound. Every course merits a 1,000 words, so food bloggers in the making should come equipped with a camera. Given that Nadia is in the kitchen each evening possibly juggling service with a photoshoot, such is her reputation shes always interested to have a chat in Spanish or English. A note on wine: Nadia is married to the president of O.Fournier, so naturally the selected pairings come from that bodegas extensive Urban line.

Diego Irrera, resident chef at Siete Fuegos Asado in Valle de Uco. While the most excellent Francis Mallmann 1884 Restaurante falls into both the out-of-town and bodega-based categories, given that its based at Escorihuela Gascn in Godoy Cruz, his latest culinary creation is based in Valle de Uco. Taking the classic Argentine barbecue and vamping it up to within an inch of its life, executive chef Mallmanns meat, fish, veg and fruit are flame-grilled seven different ways at Siete Fuegos Asado. Set among the grapes at The Vines of Mendoza, the cool mountain breeze will whistle through your hair while you work your way through the fixed lunch menu, which might include salt-crusted salmon or rosemary-speared kid. Pray that the charred peaches with cooling mascarpone are on the dessert menu; theyre a sweet treat from heaven. A unique location, the fiery menu is also one of a kind.

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Food!
Back in Godoy Cruz, booking is essential at 1884, thanks to Mallmanns ever-innovative menu and ultra-cool ambience. Blending rustic charm with contemporary place settings and natty waiters in schoolboy ties, the focus is on locally found ingredients and it set the pace for Mendoza cuisine when it opened in 1996. Given that fire-starter should probably be Mallmanns middle name, the focus is on clay-oven and parrilla cooking. Hungry tums should take on the Giant Steak, while those off cow would do worse than to order the slow-cooked lamb with grilled seasonal veg. Money no object? Take over the private dining room. Money an object? Drop by for a glass of Malbec at the bar. Obviously the cellar and 60-page wine list are worth their weight in gold. If the weathers acting right, make a beeline for the romantic courtyard.

The cellar and 60-page wine list are worth their weight in gold.!

Sushi course at Mun in the Barrel Room at Casarena.

Restaurant Terruo at Club Tapiz.

Bodega-based
When Chef Mun announced the closure of his Buenos Aires restaurant in winter 2012, hearts stopped beating for a brief second. But this wasnt the end of an era, merely the beginning. This puerta cerrada favourite, dear to expat hearts for making sushi as it should be and injecting much-needed spicy flavours into often dull Buenos Aires menus, was simply relocating. Now spicing up the Barrel Room at Casarena Boedga y Viedos with a fivecourse Japanese, Korean and Chinese menu around a communal table, Muns delectable Argentine king crab hand rolls and spicy tuna on crispy rice are once again shaking up a local culinary scene. The move to Lujn de Cuyo has been positive for the South Korean-born chef he now opens daily for lunch, while combining a debut as the first Asian chef to feature on the Masters of Food & Wine agenda. Mun still operates as a closeddoor restaurant so a reservation is essential.

Puertas Cerradas
If you thought closed-door dining was a strictly Buenos Aires experience, think again. Its alive and thriving in Mendoza and youll find a prime example at Gonzalo Cuervos place. Located in Gonzalo and Tete the boxers lofty home that doubles up as Ituzaingo Rest, the living room and green back patio are designated dining areas, where musicians gently ply their wares in summer. Theres no better welcome than that from a hanging cava, which is swiftly followed up a glass of wine and appetisers from friendly staff. Although the eight-course paired tasting menu covers the spectrum of Argentine cuisine, Ituzaingo also injects criolla, gourmet, fusion and molecular techniques to its dishes. Northern flavours might include humita pie with grilled pepper emulsion, while a goats cheese salad with honey vinaigrette is straight from the Mendoza kitchen. With an easy-going crowd combining Argentines with visitors, Ituzaingo is relaxed gourmet dining personified. Gonzalo also takes it upon himself to turn the most gringo of gringos into a fine Argentine asador, so why not rise to the challenge with a cookery class at Ituzaingo.

A n o t h e r w i n e r y r e s t a u ra n t definitely worth booking into is Bodega Tapizs. The top-notch Restaurant Terruo in Maip specialises in local produce, such as rabbit, kid and trout, and picks veggies from its organic garden. Although the restaurant was purpose built, its style and dcor perfectly replicate the neighbouring Casa Tapiz hotel, a El Elmo at Ituzaingo Puerta Cerrada. Renaissance-style villa built in the 1890s amid 22 hectares of vines. On the short yet very sweet menu, give the dreamy arugula salad Honourable Mentions with figs, brie and roasted tomato long thrift, before devouring an exquisite ravioli-filled braised lamb with capers and walnut butter. Our tip? Stay Other honourable supper club mentions include Lo de Fer and Los Chocos, overnight, so have lunch, have a siesta in your stunning room, then head which both offer Argentine tasting menus. back for dinner you wont have far to stumble.

The eight-course paired tasting menu covers the spectrum of Argentine cuisine.!

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Argentinian Delicacies! on Your Doorstep!

By Daniel Neilson, 23 August 2013
Two weeks ago, I was walking towards London Bridge after work through Borough Market. People in the pubs spilled out on to the pavements to make the most of the warm air. Id stopped in a pub on the way home with a couple of friends and we were in no hurry. Then I saw Portea (tag line: Argentinian Street Food), and I was overwhelmed with memories (it doesnt take a lot). We perched on one of the stools outside, ordered half a dozen empanadas (dos de carne, dos de pollo y dos de jamon y queso), a bottle of Malbec (Quilmes was on offer obvio) and I was back in Buenos Aires. I later jumped on the train with two kilos of yerba mate and a dozen Havanettes.
Every expat Argentine or anyone who has spent a lot of time in Argentina will, without doubt, have an urgent need to drink mate, eat dulce de leche, chew on a juicy piece of asado de tira and buy some alfajores. Empanadas are rarer, Ive discovered, in the other places Ive lived (Montreal and Toronto for example), but somewhere, on some street, in nearly every city theres at least one little store with a faded Boca Juniors logo hung in the window, where you can get brands of mate, a half decent media luna and some dulce de leche. And, here they are.

Food!

Theres no shortage of Argentines in New York, nor their restaurants.!

and food writer of the amazing Taxi Gourmet blog recommends. Its also a butchers shop. Much loved. For shops selling Argentinian products all over North America this is a great resource.

London
The aforementioned Portea is in Borough Market on the South Bank. It sells yerba, pastries, alfajores and stunning empanadas. You can sit out side and drink wine. Chango Empanadas is a street stall on Brick Lane on Sundays and a couple of other different markets across London check out their website. For a really wide range of Argentinian products (dulce de batata, replacement bombillas, tapas de empanadas and, GET THIS!, 9 de Oro biscuits!) then Casa Argentina has the lot at reasonable prices. They mainly deliver, but theres a small store in South Wimbledon. See my blog post about Argentinian restaurants in London. Many sell yerba, as do the El Guacho restaurants in Chelsea and South Kensington. And for some oquis in quirky surroundings, try the Anglo Argentine Society that serves it up every month on the 29th! Among many other events.

Amsterdam
Since I have been researching this post, the city of Amsterdam has cropped up quite a bit. Theres a large Argentinian Diaspora in the city (including Princess Maxima!) and this is reflected in the number of Argentinian restaurants and shops. One of the most intriguing isnt actually run by Argentines. When we started CAU, our vision was to capture that spirit in a restaurant that would fit right into the heart of Palermo, Buenos Aires. At CAU youll find empanadas, yerba-smoked beef (!) and asado de chorizo. Theres also branches in Guildford and Cambridge in the UK. Other recommended restaurants include Carlitos Gardel, La Luna that sits high in t h e Tr i p A d v i s o r r a n k i n g s a n d Toro Dorado. And for just about everything Argentinian, including that grill youve been hankering for (I have), is Mate Tee. Its an online shop, in Germany, but ships all over Europe. A Dutch mail order shop is Yerba Mate Holland.

The cocktail bar at Cau Restaurant in Amsterdam; photo by Luca di Ciaccio on Flickr.

Montreal
Theres one restaurant in Montreal who are closer than any other in the city to a wonderful authentic asado and that is LAtelier DArgentine. To see the worlds most appealing website look here. It serves upmarket food (mollejas sweetbreads, asado de tira and vacio) and has a massive wine list. For Argentinian goods, I always head to Sabor Latino on St Laurent (theres also a store in East Montreal at 436 Blanger). Its a large supermarket with everything youd possibly want, including a few bits and bobs you saw on your Latin American travels such as Inca Cola. But youll find plenty of yerba, empanada dough, maize (if youre going Northern Argentinian), polenta and dulce de leche. LAtelier DArgentine parrilla in Montreal; photo by Doug on Flickr.

Parrilla 406 Estocolmo in Stockholm; photo by Erik Mrner on Flickr.

Dulce de leche for sale at Portea, Borough Market, London; photo by Portea on Flickr.

Stockholm
Theres pretty much one place in Stockholm you are guaranteed a decent Argentinian meal and my friends there have vouched for it: 406 Estocolmo. Even the name sounds like a Palermo restaurant. Its unerringly authentic no burgers or fancy starters on this menu (you can tell because they only have three salads, and one of which is Rusa). They also do Peruvian ceviche.

New York
Well, theres no shortage of Argentines in New York, nor their restaurants. Where to begin? In Queens theres El Gauchito, where homesick Argentines congregate. Reassuringly, its also a butchers. Whats not to like? They also sell every Argentinian food stuff you could imagine: Titas, Bon Bons as well as fresh pastas. Nearby, in the Barrio Argentino in Queens, is the Rio De La Plata Panaderia y Confiteria. Speciality? Sandwiches de Miga. Need I say any more? OK, I will. Nearby is La Esquina Criolla (9467 Corona Ave, Elmhurst, (718) 699-5579), which Layne Mosler, a friend

A steak at La Pampa restaurant in Hong Kong; photo by Krista on Flickr.

To get your mate fix, plus bombillas and mate gourds try: Yerba.se, and Himalaya but for just about anything: Latin Produkter. Its goods from all over South America, but youll find your dulce de leche here.

Hong Kong
You can pretty much find anything you want in Hong Kong, you always have done, even if that includes chorizo, empanadas and a milanesa. That place is La Pampa. No frills is probably how its best described, but if youre hankering your neighbourhood parrilla, this should fulfill your need. Being a huge tea drinking city, unsurprisingly youll find yerba in most tea shops, such as H-TEA-O and some of the upmarket supermarkets. It can also be ordered for Culture Organics. As yet, however, we still havent been able to track down alfajores!

El Gauchito Restaurant in New York; photo by Robyn Lee on Flickr.

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