PM Finishing

Get in touch with perfection Moist-Cure / LT-Cure

Version 1.7 07.09.2005

Resin finish
Comparison of traditional Easy Care finish with a No Iron finish Smoothness Appearance: ( 3 x 40C washed, tumble dried )
only softened Easy Care finish No Iron finish

Resin finish
Different methods to determine the smoothness appearance Common evaluation methods for smoothness appearance are: " Smoothness Appearance of fabrics after repeated home launderings "
AATCC 124

ISO 7768 - M&S P134 - DIN 53895 - AFNOR G 07 137-2

Monsanto
Smoothness Appearance AATCC 124 (Idem fr M&S P134) DIN 53895

1 1 1

2 3 2 2

3.5

3 4

5 3.5 6

4 8

5 10

Resin finish
Smoothness Appearance of fabrics after repeated home launderings
SA-1 SA-2

AATCC 124

SA-3

SA- 4

Resin finish
Comparison of different resin finish processes

Fabric humidity in % Classical dry curing Rapid curing LT-Cure process

pH of the finishing liquor

Amount of resin in the recipe in g/l

Curing temperature Curing time in C

Shape of the fibre

Effect / Strenght relation

Washing Suitable for reactive after dyed curing goods necessary no yes

0-2

3.5-5

30-80

140 - 160

3 min

non-swollen

standard

0-1

3.5-5

30-80

150 - 190

30 - 10 sec

non-swollen

standard

no

yes

0-3

2- 4

150-200

130

3 min

non-swollen

good

yes

yes

Moist-Cure

7-10

0.5 - 1.5

150-200

25 - 35

20-24 h

partly swollen

very good

yes

no

Resin finish
Comparison of different resin finish processes
Dry-Cure process:

1) Pad & Dry

2) Cure 3 minutes at 150C

Moist-Cure process:

1) Pad & Dry to res. moisture of 7-10%

2) Batch 20-24 h at 30-35C

3) Wash off and neutralize

4) Top finish

LT-Cure process: ( Low Temperature - Cure )

1) Pad & Dry

2) Cure 3 minutes at 130C

3) Wash off

4) Top finish
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Resin finish
Easy Life Finish
The uncomplicated Easy Care finish with variable building block system For woven knit goods of cotton and their blends with synthetic fibres One stage process Guide recipe 100 % Co fabric (lightweight fabric; white or coloured goods)
Stage 1 30-80 10-16 15-30 20-30 3-5 0.5 g/l Arkofix NDF liq c g/l Catalyst NKC liq g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc g/l Velustrol P40 liq g/l Appretan MB extra g/l Sandozin MRN liq c

- pad cold - Pickup 60-70 % - dry at 120 C, then cure 150C 3 minuntes

Resin finish
LT-Cure Finish
The comprehensive low risk finish for highest demands as an alternative to moist crosslinking with almost the same effects (no change of shade) For woven goods of 100 % Cotton. Three stage process Guide recipe for 100 % Co fabric (120g/m2)
Stage 1 Resin finish 150-210 g/l Arkofix NDF/NEC Plus liq c* 25-32 g/l Catalyst LT1 liq 10-30 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc 30-40 g/l Velustrol P40 liq 0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c - pad cold - pickup 60-70 % - dry at 80C to residual humidity of 5-8%, - then cure 3 min at 130C Stage 2 Openwidth washing 0.5 g/l Sandoclean PC liq - openwidth wash at 40C - rinse & dry Stage 3 Top finish 0.5 g/l acetic acid 60 % 30-40 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc 40 g/l Ceranin HDP liq 0-5 g/l Appretan MB extra 0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c - pad cold, pickup 60-80 % - dry at 130C - sanforize if necessary

*) list of suitable resins seeseparate page

Resin finish
Moist-Cure
The complex State of the Art finish with a technically demanding background For woven goods of 100% Cotton. Three stage process Guide recipe for 100 % Co fabric (120g/m2)
Stage 2 Openwidth washing with soda ash Stage 1 Resin finish and Sandoclean PC liq 180-240 g/l Arkofix NDL liq conc - neutralize at 60C 0-30 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc - rinse, neutralize cold with acetic acid 25-40 g/l Ceranine HDP liq - rinse & dry 0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c 4-7 g/l sulphuric acid conc (for details see separate sheet) - pad cold Stage 3 Top finish - pickup 70-80 % 0.5 g/l acetic acid 60 % - dry at 90-100C to 7-10 % residual humidity 30 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc - roll and batch at 25-35C for 20-24 h 40 g/l Ceranine HDP liq 0-5 g/l Appretan MB extra 0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c - pad cold, pickup 60-80 % - dry at 130C - sanforize if necessary

Resin finish
Moist-Cure
The complex State of the Art finish with a technically demanding background For woven goods of 100% Cotton. Three stage process Guide recipe for 100 % Co fabric (120g/m2)
Stage 2 Openwidth washing with soda ash Stage 1 Resin finish *) and Sandoclean PC liq 180-240 g/l Arkofix MCL liq conc - neutralize at 60C 0-30 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc - rinse, neutralize cold with acetic acid 25-40 g/l Ceranine HDP liq - rinse & dry 0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c *) (for details see separate sheet) 110 g/l Catalyst MC1 liq 0.4-0.6 ml/l HCl 36-38 % Stage 3 Top finish - pad cold 0.5 g/l acetic acid 60 % - pickup 70-80 % 30 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc - dry at 90-100C to 6.5-7 % residual humidity 40 g/l Ceranine HDP liq - roll and batch at 30-35C for 22-24 h 0-5 g/l Appretan MB extra 0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c - pad cold, pickup 60-80 % - dry at 130C *) is not available in all countries - sanforize if necessary

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Resin finish
Influence of moisture in Moist-Cure process
Crease recovery angles in

160 150 140 130 120 110 100 90 80 70 60 In this area: too much loss of strenght Optimum in effects and strenght 7 9 In this area: effects not good enough Wet crease angles

Dry crease angles 15 17 19 21

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50
1 3 5 11 13
Moisture in %

Resin finish
Influence of drying temperature in Moist-Cure process
Loss in % 100 % Cotton finished with Glyoxal resin and catalysed with sulfuric acid

70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 90 110 130 150

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Tensile strength

Abrasion

Drying temperature in C (dried to a residual moisture of 7% (Mahlo figure))

Resin finish
Important points for Moist-Cure process
pH of the finishing liquor should between 0.8 and 1.3 Drying temperature not higher than 70 - 90C. Reduce ventilation to max 75% in order to achive a gentle and equal drying. Residual humidity of the fabric must be adjusted exactly to 7 - 10 % (mahlo figure) Wrap with a plastic foil and store at a temperature of 25 - 35 C for 20 - 24 hours (possible is between 17 and 30 hours). (In some countries a climate chamber is advisable). Then wash/neutralize, dry and do the softening at the stenter.

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Resin finish
Important points for Moist-Cure process
Use a high reactive and hydrolysis stable glyoxal resin (like Arkofix NDL or Arkofix MCL) An addition of a acid stable polyethylene softener will minimize the loss in tear strength If an addition of an optical brightener is needed, use an acid stable type and add it in the resin step as well as in the softening step. pH of the finished fabric should be slightly acid to neutral (if it is alcaline formaldehyde figures may be too high).

Remark: Only vat-dyed or pigment dyed colors can withstand the extremely acid conditions of a moisture cure without showing a severe shade change.

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Resin finish
Washing process after Moist-Cure

1. Department 2. Department cold water

3. Department

4.+6. Department

7. Department water: 40C

8. Department cold water

water: 50C water: 40C water: 40C 2-4 g/l soda ash 2-3 g/l soda ash 2 g/l Sandoclean PC liq pH about 10-11 pH about 10 pH about 7-8

pH about 6

pH about 5-6 add acetic acid if necessary

pH 6-7

Remark: Instead of Sandoclean PC liq also Sandozin MRN liq conc can be used (dosage = about half of the dosage of Sandoclean PC liq.)

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Resin finish
Important points for LT-Cure process
Use drying temperature not higher than 70 - 90C plus reduced ventilation to max.75% in order to achieve a gentle and equal drying, and to reduce migration of the resin. Curing temperature must be exactly 130C (not higher). Use our newly developed Catalyst LT1 liq together with a selected highly reactive glyoxal resin (see list with the recommended chemicals) in order to get a high crosslinking rate together with acceptable strength loss: The dosage of Catalyst LT1 liq in LT-Cure process is depending on the type of resin: with 150-210 g/l Arkofix NDF liq conc use 34 g/l Catalyst LT1 liq with 150-210 g/l Arkofix NEC Plus liq conc use 28 g/l Catalyst LT1liq with 150-210 g/l Arkofix NES liq conc use 28 g/l Catalyst LT1liq
An addition of a polyethylene softener will minimize the loss in tear strength.
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Resin finish
Recommended products for LT-Cure process
In the Resin-Finish step: Glyoxal resins: Arkofix NDF liq conc Arkofix NEC Plus liq conc Arkofix NES liq conc Silicone softeners: Sandoperm MW liq or liq conc Polyethylens: Ceranine HDP liq Sandolube SVN liq Velustrol P40 liq In the Top-Finish: Silicone softeners: Solusoft UP liq or liq conc Sandoperm MW liq or liq conc Sandoperm ACN liq Polyethylens: Ceranine HDP liq Sandolube SVN liq Velustrol P40 liq

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Resin finish
Comparison Dry-Cure versus LT-Cure
RECIPES: Acetic acid 60% Sandozin NRW liq hc Arkofix NDF liq conc Arkofix NEC Plus liq conc Ceraperm MW liq Ceranine HDP liq Magnesiumchloride, 6 H2O Catalyst LT1 liq g/l g/l g/l g/l g/l g/l g/l g/l 0 0.5 0.2 1 0.5 0.2 80 40 60 16 2 Dry-Cure 0.5 0.2 100 40 60 20 0.5 0.2 120 40 60 24 3 4 LT-Cure 0.5 0.2 170 40 40 27 cure 3 minutes at 130C wash at 40C, then dry 0.2 20 30 dry at 130C RESULTS: Smoothness appearance (AATCC 124) Tensile strength (ASTM 5034), warp Tensile strength (ASTM 5034), weft Loss in Tensile strength (warp & weft) Tear strength (ASTM 1424), warp Tear strength (ASTM 1424), weft Loss in Tear strength (warp & weft) daN daN % cN cN % 0 1 36.7 34.2 970 996 1 3.0 25.7 24.9 -28.9 828 885 -12.8 2 3.1 24.7 21.5 -34.8 776 739 -22.9 3 3.2 21.3 17.2 -45.7 681 523 -38.8 0.2 20 30 dry at 130C 4 3.6 24.1 22.3 -34.6 761 735 -23.9
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Pickup: 70 %, then dry at 110C cure 3 minutes at 150C (eff.) Sandozin NRW liq hc Ceraperm MW liq Ceranin HDP liq g/l g/l g/l -

Resin finish
LT-Cure versus Dry-Cure and Moist-Cure Dry-Cure
with high dosage of resin
Chlorine resistance 3 Reactive Dyes 2 1 DP 0
CRA DP Chlorine resistance 3

LT-Cure

Moist-Cure
Chlorine resistance 3
SP

SP

Reactive Dyes

2 1 0

Reactive Dyes

2 1

SP

CRA

DP

CRA

Tear strength Tensile strength

Softness Tear strength

Tensile strength

Softness Tear strength

Softness Tensile strength

*If chlorine resistent resin is used

SP = Simplicity of process CRA = Crease recovery angles DP = Durable Press

Legend: 3 = very good 2 = good 1 = moderate / poor 0 = very poor

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Clariant priority products

Arkofix NDF liq conc Glyoxal based crosslinker modified N-methylol dihydroxi ethylene urea very low formaldehyde content NANO - emulsion special modified silixane weakly cationic, no yellowing Micro emulsion Aminomodified silicone elastomer nonionic Hydrophilic multipurpose polyurethane, ideal for moisture management finish, additive for resin finish, nonionic

Sandoperm SE1 liq

Ceraperm MW

liq + liq c

Sandoperm RPU liq

www.textiles.clariant.com Clariant International Ltd Rothaustrasse 61 CH-4132 Muttenz, Switzerland Phone: +41 61 469 7074 Fax: +41 61 469 7548 bu.textile.chemicals@clariant.com

Many of their dyestuffs, pigments and chemicals are patented by Clariant Ltd or its affiliates in numerous industrial countries. Trademark registered by Clariant Ltd or Clariant GmbH in numerous countries. * Trademark licensed to Clariant Ltd in numerous countries. +Manufacturers registered trade mark. The signs , * and + appear only at the first mention of the product. The information and recommendations presented here were compiled with the utmost care,but cannot be extended to cover every possible case. They are intended to serve as non-binding guidelines and must be adapted to the prevailing conditions.

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