IPR ASSIGNMENT

What is meant by Geographical Indication ?

Geographical Indications of Goods are defined as that aspect of industrial property which refers to the geographical indication referring to a country or to a place situated therein as being the country or place of origin of that product. Typically, such a name conveys an assurance of quality and distinctiveness which is essentially attributable to the fact of its origin in that defined geographical locality, region or country. India, as a member of the World Trade Organization (WTO), enacted the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection)Act, 1999 has come into force with effect from 15th September 2003. A geographical indication is a sign used on goods that have a specific geographical origin and possess qualities, reputation or characteristics that are essentially attributable to that place of origin. Most commonly, a geographical indication includes the name of the place of origin of the goods. Agricultural products typically have qualities that derive from their place of production and are influenced by specific local factors, such as climate and soil. Whether a sign is recognized as a geographical indication is a matter of national law. Geographical indications may be used for a wide variety of products, whether natural, agricultural or manufactured. An appellation of origin is a special kind of geographical indication. It generally consists of a geographical name or a traditional designation used on products which have a specific quality or characteristics that are essentially due to the geographical environment in which they are produced. The concept of a geographical indication encompasses appellations of origin.

What is an Appliqu work ?

Among the traditional textiles of India, the art of appliqu work occupies a distinguished place. According to the Websters dictionary, appliqu is a decoration or trimming made of one material attached by sewing, gluing, etc. to another. In India, appliqu art is widely prevalent in the western states, especially in Gujarat and Rajasthan, and in the eastern coast of Orissa. It is believed that appliqu work made its way into western India either from Europe or Arabia in the Middle East through trade contacts.

Multicolored covering of jigsaw pieces formed of geometrical shapes creating tensile texture and a visual treat, is the impression one gets while seeing an appliqu or patchwork. Colorful and vivid shapes and forms of fabric patched together or on another surface create the most attractive and vibrant textile products. The traditional techniques of appliqu and patchwork have over years been used in paraphernalia of products both for functional and decorative purpose.

Applique has derived its name from the French word appliquer whose meaning is to "put on". Applique Techniques of Gujarat, India has evolved from an ancient needlework practice. This practice uses embroidery, pieces of fabric or some other items that are stitched on a fabric-base to create magnificent designs. Applique is considered a leading name amongst the Handicrafts of Gujarat. The primary idea of applique techniques is quite easy to understand and apply. You would need to cut a shape out of one fabric and sew that shape on a different fabric. Applique is an easy and effective way of decorating fabric, irrespective of whether it is done by machine or by hand. However, applique doesn't just use fabric. It can even be used with a range of other materials like sequins, beads, etc. It is often used in ombination with other varieties of needlework like embroidery to bring forth the desired effect. Applique is suitable both for small or large scale work. However, all materials are not suitable for every applique project. For something totally decorative, like a wall hanging, there is a wider range of fabrics from which you may have your pick. There are two key steps in applique techniques. The first consists of choosing the design and transferring it to the fabric; the second is the applique work itself. There are two methods for the design of an applique. The first method is to work directly with cutting shapes, materials, arranging and then rearranging the shapes, stitching them to

a base either by machine or hand without any planning. The second method is to plan a design on paper at first. Then using cut paper, shapes can be traced out. You can also make use of books for getting several designs. You may even draw simple forms such as butterflies, leaves, fish, etc. The texture as well as the color of the material should be chosen carefully as they are an integral element of the design. Bonding is another way which is much quicker and easier method of stitching. In reverse applique, a special technique of applique, layers of fabric are initially stitched together. Afterwards, the upper layers are cut away so that the lower layers forming the design remain. San Blas or Mola is a reverse applique technique. Applique is utilized extensively in quilting. "Sunbonnet Sue" and "Dresden Plate" are two instances of traditional American quilt blocks that are made with both applique and patchwork. Some quilts like Baltimore album quilts, Hawaiian quilts, Broderie perse, Amish and the ralli quilts of Pakistan and India also make use of applique.

Applique The art of decorating a textile product by applying fabric on fabric with the edges sewn down by stitching can be termed as Appliqu. A colored piece of fabric cut into various snowflakes like forms or abstract rendition of birds and animals or simple linear patters is sewed on the surface of a different colored fabric. The composing of forms on fabric surfaces adds in a quality of dimensionality while providing visual depth and surface richness to the negative and positive design background. Appliqu is created by two different techniques and its origin can be identified by the style of fabrication, color usage, composition and the kind of forms of patterns used. The simple appliqu is created by cutting fabric in any desired form or shape and then stitching it on the surface of the textile product. Symmetrical and asymmetrical abstract forms are created in varied shapes and sizes. Quite often the appliqu technique is accompanied by range of stitches adding more value and further embellishing it. Another method is known by the name of Reverse appliqu in which the surface fabric forms the shape and design contrasted to the top fabric in appliqu. Small abstract patterns adorning a garment or animal motifs with trees composed on a home furnishing enhances the value of the products while flaunting the dexterity of the artisans. The color palette of appliqu artists of Gujarat varies from warm to cool, white on white, bright and festive to natural and neutral tones. Patchwork

Patchwork is the art of sewing little patches of geometric shaped fabric together to form a textile pattern. The surface texture and bright colors of patchwork along with the well composed array of squares and triangles, attracts any individual and has remained being a favored textile product. Traditionally the patchwork technique was mainly used for fabricating quilts using used pieces of fabric by the women in rural areas. The ingenuity of the technique and the vividness in design has been translated to fit in modern day needs and requirements. Today, patchwork known for its strength and durability forms an integral part of fashioning varied range of textile products. Colors in a patchwork always reflects the sensibility of the creator, different hues are selected and fit together to create contrast on the surface while enriching the product appearance. Traditional Trivia Appliqu and patchwork are two methods which have been traditionally used by women all over the world to create simplest objects from worn and torn pieces of used textiles. Traditionally the techniques were used for creating the most magnificent quilts for domestic usage. Quilt a functional object which helps in facing the vagaries of nature is almost like an expressive art form for the rural or pastoral women in Gujarat. Each coverlet is an impression of creativity and love for colors and forms of the women who playfully compose the fabric pieces to create the most enduring and eye-catching work of art. During the Mughal period, the art of appliqu became a royal medium of fashioning elegant and delicate textile products. Muslin fabrics were used with architectural jal patterns to create a plethora of products in appliqu technique. Appliqu and patchwork, two techniques which developed mainly for domestic purposes has become one of the most favored process of adorning textiles.

Kutch Saurashtra Region - Amreli, Bhavnagar, Junagadh Ahmdabad

Community Involved
The techniques are practiced by many communities and commercially now used by many designers as well.

Raw Materials Used

Silk, Cotton and wool fabrics

Embroidery threads of varied colors Abla or cicular mirrors

Few APPLIQUE work pictures

Appliqu, the art of patch work, is an integral part of Gujarat and its world of folk art. The decorative needle work of Gujarat has a distinctive style of its own. Gujarat appliqu is mainly based on patchwork, in which coloured and patterned fabric is finely cut in different sizes and shapes. It is then sewn together on a plain background to

form a composite piece. The whole charm of an appliqu lies in the contours of each individual inset piece. The stitch done on each individual bit is not hidden, but adds to the art. In fact, gaudy colours of thread are used to show out distinctly.

Applique & Patch Work of Orissa

The city of Puri on the banks of Bay of Bengal is not only famous for its beach but is also an important religious town. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims throng to this place to pay a visit to the renowned temple of Lord Jagannath. During Rath Yatra of Lord Jagannath sister Subhadra and Brother Balbhadra vast canopies are required. The canopies are a representation of the beautiful craft of Applique and Patch work of Orissa. It's an important traditional craft and followed in Bhubaneshwar and its adjoining areas. The process involves making a large piece of cloth by joining figurative animals, flowers, geometrical shapes and motifs. This large cloth can then be converted into useful products. Apart from temples activities, the canopies are used in festivals and pavilions. The Pipli village, which is close to Puri is the centre for some lovely applique and patch work of Orissa. The applique craft is

also very popular in Puri. The products included lamp shades, garden and beach umbrellas, kitchen accessories, bed and table linen, handbags and other furnishing items.