Post Base

Beam
Post
Stair Tread
Stair Stringer
Concrete Pier
(underground)
Concrete Footing
(underground)
Ledger Board
Outside Joist
Blocking
Header Joist
Joists
Deck Boards
(Decking)
Cleared Gravel
Area for Deck
Balusters
Railing Post
Railing Cap
Rails
CONTENTS
2 Getting Started
4 Parts of a Deck
5 Span Tables
6 Ledger Board
10 Foundation Layout
12 Footings /Piers
14 Posts / Beams
16 Joists
18 Decking
24 Stairs
28 Railings
32 Finishing and
Maintenance
Non-incised and incised
pressure-treated wood.
1
WELCOME
This booklet illustrates the most common basic techniques of outdoor deck
construction using pressure-treated wood in the Pacific Northwest and Alaska.
This information is provided as a guide for working with pressure-treated wood.
What is pressure-treated wood?
Most pressure-treated wood used in the Pacific Northwest and Alaska is made
from western hemlock and white fir lumber (known collectively as hem-fir). The
lumber is treated in a vacuum/pressure cycle which forces a preservative into
the wood. The process chemically binds the preservative to the wood fibers,
permanently fixing it into the wood. This protects the wood from rot, decay, and
insect attack. The treating process does not protect the wood from the effects
of weatheringin particular cracking, splitting, and checking from sun exposure.
Why does some pressure-treated wood have inciser marks?
Incised pressure-treated wood is for use where lumber
will make direct contact with the ground (or be close to it).
The inciser notches allow preservative to penetrate deeper
into the wood providing increased protection. Incised pressure-
treated wood is commonly used for fence posts and the underside
structural support members of outdoor decks and stairs.
What kinds of pressure-treated wood are available?
Until recently most residential pressure-treated wood was made with
chromated copper arsenate (CCA). An industry-wide phase out of CCA
production began in 2001. The majority of residential pressure-treated
wood available today is treated with the more environmentally friendly
alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ). Check tag at board end to identify treatment.
Should I let my deck season for 3-4 months before sealing?
No, a high quality water repellent should be applied immediately after completing
an outdoor deck (providing the wood is dry). The USDA Forest Products Laboratory
has shown that not sealing a deck immediately after construction reduces the life
of the wood by as much as 20% due to weathering.
2002 Jerry Henness
SWT HOW TO is a trademark
of Superior Wood Treating
Build A Deck With Pressure-Treated Wood is
intended as a guide for working with pressure
treated wood. The author and sponsors assume
no responsibility for any damage to property, or
any injuries suffered, or any losses incurred as
a result of following directions offered in this
book. Consult your local building dept. for all
applicable structural requirements in your area.
Stack pressure-treated lumber
immediately after delivery for
air drying with the first boards
needed on top.
Wear safety
protection.
2
GETTING STARTED
The construction specications used in this booklet follow the most common code
requirements for outdoor decks in the United States, however a local building
department should be consulted first for restrictions and permits.
SAFETY FIRST
As with any construction project, building a deck requires care and
caution to avoid accidents. Always wear eye protection when using
power tools or striking objects such as nails. A dust mask should
be worn whenever using a saw. Gloves should be worn whenever
applying stains, sealers, and wood preservatives. After working with
pressure-treated wood, wash hands before eating.
ORDERING LUMBER
The framing substructure of an outdoor deck should be built exclusively with
pressure-treated wood, preferably ground contact lumber (incised). The decking
boards and railings can also be made from pressure-treated wood or from a
naturally rot resistant wood such as cedar or redwood.
Allow for waste and natural imperfections in wood by adding about 10% to the
amount of lumber required for your deck when ordering lumber. Waste can be
minimized by designing a deck to take standard lengths of lumber in two foot
increments. When designing a deck allow for trimming the ends of deck boards.
A 20 foot deck may need to be 19 feet 8 inches in actual length.
When possible, lumber should be ordered to
arrive on the site 23 weeks before construction
is to begin. Lumber should be sorted and stacked
immediately after delivery for air drying. Spacers
are placed between the layers to allow even air
flow. Weights should be set on the top boards above
the spacers and the whole stack should be protected
from sun and rain with a weighted tarp or plywood sheet
leaving the sides open for air flow.
Lumber Dimensions
CHECK LUMBER
Lumber may not have perfectly square ends from the mill. All lumber should be
double-checked and trimmed where it structurally needs to be square or where
it will be in an exposed location.
Additionally, the actual width of lumber may vary due to moisture content and
different milling lots. The ends of pressure-treated wood tend to swell slightly from
the treatment process. When butting deck boards, put the ends of boards together
or cuts from the middle sections of boards together for a perfect fit.
TREAT CUT ENDS
The pressure treating process usually
penetrates the wood about
1
/4
1
/2 inches
deep. Cutting and drilling treated wood
exposes untreated interior areas of the
lumber which need additional protection.
A wood preservative (preferably an
end-cut solution) should be brushed on
cut ends and drilled holes of pressure-treated
lumber during construction when the cuts and
holes are made. Ideally 23 coats should be
applied, waiting 23 minutes between coats.
This is an important step under the terms of most
pressure-treated wood warranties.
USE GOOD QUALITY FASTENERS
Use only hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails, bolts,
nuts, and washers. It is tempting to buy the cheapest fasteners
you can find, however non-galvanized fasteners quickly rust and leave
unsightly streaks and stains on wood and concrete. Future repairs or alterations
become more difficult due to the rusted bolts, nuts, and washers fusing together.
The wet climates of Western Washington and Southeastern Alaska will, with time,
rust non-galvanized fasteners even when they are out of direct weather. When
choosing deck screws look for a multi-coated screw that is specially made for
pressure-treated wood decking.
3
Check board ends for square.
Trim if necessary.
Brush on an end-cut solution
on all cut ends and drilled holes
of pressure-treated wood.
Check board widths for a good fit.
Pressure-treated lumber will vary.
Actual
3
/4" x 3
3
/4"
3
/4" x 5
3
/4"
1
1
/2" x 3
1
/2"
1
1
/2" x 5
1
/2"
1
1
/2" x 7
1
/4"
1
1
/2" x 9
1
/4"
1
1
/2" x 11
1
/4"
3
1
/2" x 3
1
/2"
5
1
/2" x 5
1
/2"
Nominal
1 x 4
1 x 6
2 x 4
2 x 6
2 x 8
2 x 10
2 x 12
4 x 4
6 x 6
Beam
Post
Ground Line
Frost Line
SIDE VIEW (Deck Width) FRONT VIEW (Deck Length)
Joist Span Cantilever
Joist Spacing
Beam
Overhang
Beam Span
Beam
Joist
Deck as shown: 10'x16'
Deck height: 35" above the ground
Railing height: 38" above the decking
Joists: 2x8s
Deck Boards: 2x6s
Railing Posts: 4x4s
Balusters: 2x2s
Beam: 4x8
Deck Posts: 4x4s
Pier Diameter: 8"
Footings: 12"x12"
Stair Tread
Stair Stringer
Concrete Pier
(underground)
Concrete Footing
(underground)
Ledger Board
Outside Joist
Blocking
Header Joist
Joists
Deck Boards
(Decking)
Cleared Area for Deck
Balusters
Railing Posts
Railing Cap
Rails
Half-Post
4
PARTS OF A DECK
Maximum Post Heights (Hem-Fir #2 and better)
4 x 4
4 x 6
6 x 6
Post Size
up to 12 ft. high
Load Area in Sq. Ft. (joist span x beam span)
36 sq. ft. 48 sq. ft. 60 sq. ft. 72 sq. ft. 84 sq. ft. 96 sq. ft. 108 sq. ft. 120 sq. ft. 132 sq. ft.
up to 10 ft. high
up to 12 ft. high
up to 8 ft. high
up to 10 ft. high
up to 12 ft. high
6 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
Maximum Beam Spans Between Posts (Hem-Fir #2 and better)
6 ft.
7 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
6 ft.
6 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
9 ft.
6 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
8 ft.
10 ft.
6 ft.
7 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
9 ft.
10 ft.
6 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
9 ft.
10 ft.
11 ft.
6 ft.
Joist Span
4 x 6
3 x 8
4 x 8
3 x 10
4 x 10
3 x 12
4 x 12
Beam Size
6 ft.
7 ft.
8 ft.
9 ft.
10 ft.
11 ft.
12 ft.
5 ft.
Joist Span
6 ft.
7 ft.
9 ft.
10 ft.
11 ft.
12 ft.
12 ft.
4 ft.
Joist Span
6 ft.
7 ft.
7 ft.
9 ft.
7 ft.
Joist Span
8 ft.
Joist Span
9 ft.
Joist Span
10 ft.
Joist Span
11 ft.
Joist Span
12 ft.
Joist Span
up to 9' 3"
up to 11' 4"
24 in.
Joist Spacing
up to 8' 11"
up to 11' 4"
up to 13' 10"
16 in.
Joist Spacing
up to 10' 0"
up to 13' 1"
up to 16' 0"
12 in.
Joist Spacing
2 x 6*
2 x 8
2 x 10
Joist Size
Maximum Joist Spans (Hem-Fir #2 and better)
40 lbs per sq. ft. live load, plus 20 lbs. per sq. ft. dead load
12 inch joist spacing is recommended
for diagonal decking patterns.
*2x6 joists should only be
used on low level decks.
12"
5
SPAN TABLES
These span tables are specifically for hem-fir pressure treated lumber (#2 and better).
Hem-fir is the primary material used for outdoor deck framing in the Pacific Northwest
and Alaska. It is recommended that 2x4 or 2x6 decking be used with these tables.
For a solid feeling deck, with little or no bounce, avoid using the maximum distances
allowed for in the tables. Decks over 6 feet high require joist spacing no greater than
16 inches on-center for a solid feeling deck. 2x6 joists are for low level decks only.
HOW TO USE THE TABLES
A 10x16 foot deck with a 2 foot cantilever has a joist span of 8 feet.
The Maximum Joist Spans chart shows that either 2x6 joists with 16
inch spacing or 2x8 joists with 24 inch spacing can span the 8 feet.
According to the Maximum Beam Spans chart, joist spans of 8 feet
require at least a 4x8 beam with posts no farther apart than 6 feet.
Dividing the length of the deck (16 feet) by
the 6 foot maximum beam span shows
2.66 spans required. Rounding
2.66 spans up to 3 spans means
a total of 4 posts are needed.
The end posts should be set
in a little from the ends of the
beam. Spacing the 4 posts
apart 4 feet 9 inches on-center
gives just about a foot of beam
overhang on each side.
For the maximum post height
multiply the joist span by the
beam span: 8'x4'9"=38 square
feet. As long as the deck is
not over 12 feet high, 4x4
posts can safely be used.
Top of ledger board should
be about 2 inches below
bottom of threshold.
1
1
/2 inches are left off
each end of the ledger
for outside joists.
Marked positions for joists.
Cleared area for deck should
slope away from house and
be covered with landscape
fabric and gravel.
Ledger Board
Ledger boards that are not at the same
level as a rim joist can usually be secured
to the framing studs of the house. Consult
your local building department for restrictions.
Decks placed just under
a doorway will almost
always line up with the rim
joist of the house.
6
LEDGER BOARD
The first part of a deck to be installed is usually the ledger boardwhich anchors
the deck to the house and is used as a reference for the deck framing
and foundation layout. The ledger board
should be straight with no bow and is
usually the same size lumber as the
joists (2x6, 2x8, or 2x10).
The length of the ledger
board equals the total length
of the deck, less 1
1
/2 inches
on each end for outside
joists. These outside joists
overlap the ledger board
and are nailed to it.
The ledger board must be firmly
secured to the framing of the housenot
just the siding. Outdoor decks (especially
cantilevered decks) can pull away from a house
over time and possibly fail if not secured firmly
to the framing members of the house.
Ledgers placed directly under an outside door
usually lag into the solid rim joist of the house.
Houses with engineered I-beam rim joists
require solid blocking behind the rim joist to
accept lag screws or carriage bolts. Second
floor decks may line up with a rim joist or
may need to be lagged into the
framing studs of the wall.
Consult your local
building department
for restrictions.
Ledger Board being marked for layout.
Ledger Board after installation.
Outside Joist
position.
Joist position marks.
Lag bolts are placed in pairs between
joists when securing to a solid rim joist.
Measure back the 1
1
/2 inches of
joist thickness for joist positions.
Outline the ledger location first,
then determine what framing lies
within the wall for secure placement
of the ledger board fasteners.
Lag Screw
Ideal for installations where access
is only on one side.
Hex-head Bolt
For use were there is access to both sides.
Allows for maximum tightening.
Carriage Bolt
A rounded head over a square shank
draws flush with surface for a clean look.
2
1
/2" Deck Screw
Phillips or square drive deck screws
provide more holding power than nails.
16d (3
1
/2") Casing Nail
A narrow head makes these nails ideal for
decking where appearance is important.
16d (3
1
/2") Common Nail
General purpose nail for all framing.
1
1
/2" Joist Hanger Nail
For use with hangers, brackets,
connectors, and angles.
Decks being built off of an existing doorway should have the top edge of the
ledger board installed about 2 inches below the lower lip of the doorway threshold.
This puts the finished height of the deck (with 1
1
/2 inch deck boards) low enough
to prevent water from being drawn into the house.
A 4-foot level or water level and
chalk line are used to create a level
outline of the ledger board location.
With the outline in place the framing
within the wall should be determined
to allow secure placement of the
ledger board fasteners.
JOIST LAYOUT
The joist layout can be marked
on the ledger board before or after
installation. Care should be taken that the joist
locations do not interfere with the lag bolts used to secure
the ledger board to the house. This is only a problem where a solid rim joist is not
available and the lag bolt placement is dictated by the locations of framing studs.
The entire joist layout can be shifted to avoid interference if necessary.
7
COMMON
FASTENERS
Use only hot-dipped galvanized
or stainless steel fasteners.
Ledger board attached to lap siding.
Penciled outline on lap siding
showing area to be cut out.
Extra 2 inches cut
out for decking.
Extra 1
1
/2 inches cut
out for outside joists.
Avoid over-cutting the corners
of the cut out area by using a
chisel to finish the corners off.
8
The type of house siding dictates the method for attaching the ledger board. In general,
lap sidings like clapboard, wood shingle, aluminum, or vinyl need to be cut away to allow
the ledger board to be secured directly to a flat surface. With all sidings the ledger installation
starts with an exact outline of the ledger board on the wall. This is the time to find any objects
that may be in the way (like a water spigot, dryer vent). Ledger boards can be notched around
objects or even divided into two sections if necessary but care should be taken that all sections
remain level and in line.
LAP SIDING
When installing a ledger board to a house with lap siding add an
extra 1
1
/2 inches on each end of the ledger outline for the outside
joists and an extra 2 inches on top for the decking. This entire
outline will need to be cut away with a circular saw down to the
depth of the siding only, leaving the sheathing beneath intact.
Ledger board attached to flat siding.
Ledger board attached to concrete.
Galvanized ashing is installed
behind the siding above the
ledger position to deect water
over the ledger board.
Caulking or galvanized ashing should
be installed below the ledger board.
9
Ledger installations that require the house siding to
be cut away will require some type of flashing or
caulking to be installed. This is necessary to
prevent water from getting behind the ledger
board and siding.
Galvanized flashing
should be installed
above the ledger
with a vertical section
behind the siding and a horizontal
section over the ledger to deflect water.
Flashing or caulking needs to be installed
below the ledger to prevent water from
seeping behind and below. Any predrilled
holes in the wall should also be caulked.
FLAT SIDING
Ledgers can be attached to flat siding with hot-dipped galvanized washer spacers
to stand the ledger away from the house about
1
/2 to
3
/4 inch. This space prevents
water or debris from becoming trapped between the deck and the house.
MASONRY OR CONCRETE WALLS
Pressure-treated wood ledger boards can be bolted directly to a masonry or
concrete wall provided that masonry anchors are set in the wall to receive
the lag screws. Predrilled pilot holes in the ledger board are used to mark
the anchor locations on the wall.
ATTACHING THE LEDGER BOARD
The ledger board is installed by first tacking and bracing it into position on the
wall. Pilot holes are then predrilled (to only the width of the board) with a
3
/8 inch
drill bit. All holes must be at least 1 inch in from the edges of the board. A ratchet
wrench is used to attach the ledger board to the house with
3
/8x4 inch lag screws
and two stacked washers. Caulking is required to areas where the ledger board
or flashing makes direct contact with the wall.
Use masons line
which will not stretch
like regular string.
2x4 temporary braces
double as 3-4-5 triangle
components.
A plumb bob is used to
transfer the location marks
down to the ground.
The post locations
are marked on the
string line.
Outside Joist
Temporary Stake
10
FOUNDATION LAYOUT
Once the ledger board is installed the layout for the deck foundation can be made.
String lines, made from masons line, are used to create reference points to
measure from. These string lines can be attached to temporary batter boards
or to pre-installed outside joists on simple decks.
FOUNDATION LAYOUT USING OUTSIDE JOISTS
This layout technique works best for low-level simple decks.
1. The outside end joists are cut to length and attached to the ends of the ledger
board with three 16d nails. (The outside joist length is the deck width minus the
1
1
/2 inches of the header joist.)
2. The far ends of the joists are propped up with sturdy temporary stakes and leveled.
3. The outside joists are squared to the house using the 3-4-5 triangle method
by first attaching temporary 2x4 cross braces to the top of the
ledger 3 feet in from each outside joist.
4. The cross braces are then nailed to
the joists 4 feet out from the ledger
when the diagonal measurement
is exactly 5 feet.
5. A string line is run between
the joists, parallel to the house,
at the distance where the
center of the beam will be.
6. The line is marked at the
center point for each post
and plumbed to the ground.
7. The string line is removed
from one side while the foundation
holes are dug and the concrete poured.
8. The string line is then replaced to allow correct placement
of the post bases by plumbing down from the marks once again.
3-4-5 TRIANGLE
The 3-4-5 triangle is a quick way
to square corners during deck
construction. When one side of
a right triangle is 3 units long
and another side is 4 units long,
the remaining diagonal side is
exactly 5 units long. With these
measurements in place, the
junction of the 3 unit side and
the 4 unit side is a 90 angle.
Adjust this side until the
4 and 5 foot marks meet.
4'
3'
5
'
Batter boards can be easily
made from inexpensive precut
stakes sold in bundles at most
building supply centers.
90
EASY BATTER BOARDS
Running individual lines straight out
from the ledger to the post locations.
Running lines to the sides with a perpendicular
line at the center of the beam location.
Place batter boards out
away from work area.
Mark post locations
on the string line.
Use a plumb bob to
transfer the location marks
down to the ground.
11
FOUNDATION LAYOUT USING BATTER BOARDS
There are many ways to position batter boards and string lines to layout the
foundation of a deck. Most are based on squaring a string line to the ledger
with a 3-4-5 triangle, measuring out a given level distance to the post locations,
then plumbing down to ground. This gives an exact spot to place pier blocks or
dig foundation holes. Shown here are two popular methods.
Once the ground is marked, string
lines that are in the way are usually
removed from one side while
foundation holes are dug and
concrete poured. Lines are
then replaced to allow
correct placement of
the post bases by
plumbing down from
the post location
marks once again.
WHY NOT USE STAKES?
Batter boards, unlike single stakes,
allow string lines to be adjusted side
to side for alignment and squaring.
Concrete Footing
Frost Line
Ground Line
Poured Concrete
Pier in Form Tube
Post Base
Post
Backfilled
Dirt and Gravel
Compacted Gravel
Post hole diggers are
used to dig a straight
hole just wider than
the form tube.
A post base connector
(or j-bolt, or PVC pipe sleeve)
is inserted and plumbed into
the wet concrete after pouring.
The hole is expanded
at the bottom to create
a bell shaped footing.
PIER
FOOTING
Poured Concrete Pier And Footing
Precast Pier Blocks
Undisturbed Soil
12
FOOTINGS AND PIERS
Decks with posts less than 3 feet high and in areas not prone to frost heaves can
use precast pier blocks placed directly on undisturbed soil or compacted gravel.
When designing a deck to use pier blocks it is common to increase the number
of posts required to spread the weight load of the deck out to more blocks.
While this reduces the chance of settling, there is no guarantee that over
time some movement or settlement may not occur. Pier blocks also offer
no support against uplift.
POURED CONCRETE FOOTINGS
Poured concrete footings and piers offer the best guarantee against
settling and are often required by code. The diameter and depth of
the piers and footings is determined by the weight and height of the
deck, soil composition, and local code.
Footings must always be placed below the local
frost line (the maximum depth at which the ground
will freeze) to prevent frost heaves each winter.
When possible, footings should be constructed
on undisturbed soil or rock.
Footings are usually 12 to 14 inches wide
and between 6 to 8 inches deep depending
upon the height of the pier and the weight
of the deck being supported.
Concrete piers that support 4x4 posts are
usually 8 inches in diameter and are quite
often poured inside of fiberboard form tubes
which are permanently left in the ground.
These form tubes can be cut with a handsaw
to the exact height needed (usually leaving
about 2 inches showing above grade).
13
SINGLE-POUR PIER AND FOOTING
Footings and piers can be poured in one step by suspending the tube off of
the bottom of the hole allowing the concrete to spread out creating the footing.
The idea is to dig a hole just wider than the form tube and then widen the
bottom 6 to 8 inches below the frost line into a bell shaped cavity.
1. Use a clamshell post-hole digger to create a hole just wider than the form tube
all the way down to the frost line. Your local building department can tell you
the depth of the frost line in your area.
2. Excavate the next 8 to 12 inches below the frost line into a bell shaped cavity
at least 1 foot in diameter.
3. Add 2 to 4 inches of compacted gravel to the bottom of the hole for drainage,
more in wet areas. Deeper holes or larger footings may also require rebar to
reinforce the concrete, check with your local building department.
4. Cut the form tube with a handsaw to the length of the pier only, leaving about
2 inches above ground. The tube must be suspended above the footing area
during the pour and can be held in place by hand or by 2x4s nailed to the
top edges.
5. With the tube suspended, the pour for each hole should be completed in one
step. Pre-mixed concrete in 60lb or 80lb bags is the best solution for all but the
largest deck foundation jobs. Using a wheel barrow, just enough concrete can
be prepared for the job at hand without attempting all pours at once.
6. Work the concrete as it is being poured to remove any air pockets and take care
to keep the form tube plumb. Level the concrete out at the top of the tube or
create a slight mound to slope away from the center of the pier.
7. Reattach string lines to find the center of post positions again with a plumb bob.
8. Into the still wet concrete, depending on the post base system being used, insert
and plumb a j-bolt, or six inches of
3
/4" (inside diameter) PVC pipe, or a one-piece
elevated post base. The concrete can also be left to cure completely and then
drilled for a masonry anchor bolt and standoff post base system.
9. After the concrete has cured 24 hours or so, the top of the form tube (where it
will show above ground) can be cut away from the pier with a utility knife.
POST BASE
CONNECTORS
Deck posts are anchored to footings
and piers with post base connectors.
These keep the posts out of direct
contact with the ground preventing
future maintenance problems.
Elevated post base.
Standoff post base
and j-bolt combination.
Adjustable elevated post base
in
3
/4" PVC pipe sleeve.
(Requires epoxy for uplift support.)
Transferred height from
top of Ledger.
1
/16 inch down for every
1 foot out from ledger.
Cut here at top of beam
for Double-Beams.
Cut here at bottom of beam
for Solid or Built-up Beams.
Brush on an end-cut
solution to all cut ends
and drilled holes.
Begin with over-long
posts then cut down
to the correct height.
Transfer ledger height out
to posts with a straight 2x4
and 4-foot level.
14
POSTS
Incised pressure-treated posts are recommended for most deck projects. Post
ends should be checked for square and trimmed if necessary. Care should be
taken to coat cut ends and drilled holes with an end-cut solution.
The heights of individual posts will
vary with the slope of the ground.
To find the correct post heights
the ledger height is transferred
out to each uncut post.
A straight 2x4 with a 4-
foot level is a common
method of doing this.
Once the posts are
marked level with the
top of the ledger, an
additional
1
/16 inch is measured
down for every 1 foot of distance between
the ledger and the posts. This additional
1
/16 inch
for every 1 foot slopes the deck slightly away from the
house for drainage and is not noticeable on the finished deck.
The height of the joists, which are level with the top of the ledger,
is measured down and marked to find the top of the beam.
This is the finished height for posts on decks where a double-beam
is used that attaches to the sides of the posts. Beams that sit on top
of the posts need the additional height of the beam to be measured
down and marked. Final marks should be double-checked for level
across the spans between the posts.
The posts are cut at the final marks for the type of beam that is
used. The posts are then plumbed, braced for support if needed,
and secured to the post anchors.
Solid Beam
Built-up Beam
Double-Beam
Install beams and joists
crown side up.
Single piece post cap.
Two piece post cap.
1
/2" pressure-treated plywood gusset.
Perimeter posts over 5 feet high
need to be braced for stability.
Effective bracing forms a triangle.
Pressure-treated
4x4 bracing secured
with 6" lag bolts.
POST-TO-BEAM
CONNECTORS
POST-TO-BEAM
BRACING
15
BEAMS
The three most common pressure-treated wood beams used in residential deck
construction are: solid, built-up, and double-beam. Solid and built-up beams sit
on top of the posts while double-beams are bolted to the sides of posts.
Solid beams made from 4x lumber allow larger spans and require the least amount
of work. Built-up and double beams are considered 3x lumber on the span tables.
Built-up beams are made from two boards of 2x pressure-treated lumber which
are nailed together with
1
/2 inch pressure-treated plywood spacers placed every
24 inches within the beam. The spacers are pointed at the top to shed water. The
two boards plus the
1
/2 inch spacers create a beam that is the full 3
1
/2 inch width
of post-to-beam connectors for 4x4 posts.
Double-Beams are made from two boards of 2x pressure-treated lumber which
are attached to opposite sides of the posts. The boards are usually bolted through
the posts with two
3
/8x8 inch hex head bolts with washers on both sides. The bolt
holes should be offset about 1
1
/2 inches and predrilled with a
3
/8 inch drill bit.
Since the posts continue up within the beam, double-beams are ideal for very
low decks where there is little height for posts.
All beam types are cut to the finish
length of the deck (ledger width
plus 3 inches) and attached to
the posts crown side up.
Use the set tab first to
lock the joist hanger into
place before nailing.
Use a scrap piece of joist
to position the joist hanger
at the correct height.
Nail only one side
of joist hanger until
joist installation.
Ledger Board
16
JOISTS
Joists are usually made from 2x6, 2x8, or 2x10 incised pressure-treated lumber.
Non-incised pressure-treated lumber is sometimes used for outside and header
joists that will remain exposed after deck construction.
Joist hangers are attached to the ledger board with 1
1
/2 inch
hot-dipped galvanized joist hanger nails driven at slight angles.
A scrap piece of joist lumber is used to position the joist hangers
at the correct height aligning the top of the scrap piece to the top
of the ledger board. Only one side of each joist hanger is attached
until the joist is installed.
When all of the joist hangers are in place the outside joists are
cut to length and attached to the ends of the ledger board
(crown side up) with three hot-dipped galvanized 16d nails.
The outside joist length is the deck width minus the 1
1
/2
inches of the header joist.
With the outside joists attached to the ledger (but not yet
to the beam) the header joist is installed. The header joist
is cut to the total length of the deck then
attached to the outside joists (crown
side up) with three hot-dipped
galvanized 16d nails.
The newly created deck
frame can now be
squared to the house
and then lightly
nailed to the beam.
To square the frame,
measure the diagonals
from opposite corners of
the frame. Then adjust the
frame until they are equal.
Measure these diagonals and
adjust until they are exactly the
same to square the deck frame.
Header Joist
Outside Joists
Predrill
1
/16" pilot holes.
Attach with hot-dipped
galvanized 16d nails.
Lightly toenail the
frame to the beam
after squaring.
Lightly toenail the outside joists to
the beam, then secure firmly after all
the joists are installed and the entire
deck frame is rechecked for square.
The center-most joist should
be installed first to set the
header joist with no bow.
Angle brackets are
installed to strengthen
corner joints.
Seismic ties secure the
joists to the beam.
ANGLE BRACKETS
Strengthen inside corners with
galvanized angle brackets.
SEISMIC TIES
Seismic ties secure the joists to the
beam. Install ties after the deck frame
has been rechecked for square.
JOIST HANGERS
Nail only one side of joist hangers
until joist installation.
17
Once the frame is square, the outside joists can be toenailed
lightly to the beam with 10d nails. Galvanized angle brackets
should be installed at this time to the inside corners of the
frame to add stability.
The joist layout from the ledger board is transferred to either
the beam or the header joist for correct alignment of the
joists as they are installed. Joists are cut to length and
installed crown side up. The joist length is the deck
width minus 3 inches for the ledger and header joist.
JOIST INSTALLATION
The center-most joist should be installed first to insure that the header joist does
not bow in or out. Joists can be nailed directly through the header joist with three
16d nails or joist hangers can be used at the header joist to avoid having nail
heads on the exposed front of the header.
When nailing the joist
through the header,
use an angle square
on the inside of
the header to
avoid securing
the joist with
any kind
of twist.
Seismic ties
(also known as
hurricane ties) are used to
attach each joist to the beam after
all the joists are installed and the deck frame is rechecked for square.
The toenailed outside joists are nailed hard at this time to the beam.
Blocking should be installed between joists on spans greater than 8 feet to stiffen
the deck and prevent the joists from twisting. Any blocking that is required to brace
stair stringers should also be installed at this time before the decking is put down.
Board ends at butt joints should
be cut back about 5 to allow
a tight fit at the surface.
An alternative to full double
joists under decking joints is a
pressure-treated 2x4 nailer
attached to a single joist.
Decking Board
Joist
Decking boards should be
installed heart-side down.
Use over-long deck boards.
Lay out all of the deck boards
on the deck frame and then
rearrange them to find the best
overall look before installation.
Joints where deck boards
meet should be staggered
for a stronger and more
attractive deck.
Double joists provide a larger
nailing surface for board joints.
18
DECKING
Pressure-treated deck boards have slightly rounded edges and are usually
made from 2x4 or 2x6 lumber. Boards wider than 2x6 are not recommended
as they will begin to cup with time. All decking boards should be installed
with the heart-side facing down.
Deck boards are best installed overlong and trimmed as a group after
installation. Its a good idea to lay out all of the deck boards on the deck
frame first and then rearrange them to find the best overall look. Boards should
be adjusted to avoid placing knots at cut ends or directly over joists where they
could interfere with nailing. Boards that are bowed can be straightened during
installation and should be interspersed with straight boards. Deck boards
with natural defects can be placed in less visible areas.
Full length deck boards should be used whenever
possible. Joints where two decking boards meet
are a potential trouble area that can well be
avoided by using full length decking boards.
When joints are necessary they should
be staggered for a stronger and more
attractive deck. Its a common practice
to double the joists under board joints
but care should be taken that the two
joists are exactly even on top to maintain
a level joint between the deck boards.
Drill pilot holes when using screws.
Drive screw heads just below surface.
Use a nail set to finish driving nails
slightly below the surface.
Drive nails at slight angles to each
other for better holding power.
Predrill board ends to prevent
splitting the wood while nailing.
Deck clips secure deck boards
from beneath, leaving the deck
surface clear of fasteners.
19
FASTENING DECK BOARDS WITH NAILS
Nails are the least expensive type of fastener and the quickest way to secure
deck boards. The most common nail for 2x pressure-treated decking is a
3
1
/2 inch 16d casing nail.
Use only hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails.
Spiral or ring shank nails can be used to provide additional holding power.
Board ends should be predrilled to avoid splitting while nailing.
The sharp edges of the nail point should be turned to cut across the grain of
the wood or the point can be blunted with a hammer.
Nails should be driven at slight angles to each other to hold better.
Nail heads should be driven slightly below the surface of the deck board.
Pneumatic (air) nailers are a popular time saving tool for securing deck boards.
However, the nails used with pneumatic nailers tend to be less durable and
more expensive than standard hot-dipped galvanized nails.
FASTENING DECK BOARDS WITH SCREWS
Screws have a greater holding power than nails but are more expensive and take
a great deal longer to install. Screws are recommended over nails in areas of
prolonged freezing temperatures. Its a good idea to predrill all holes when using
screws (not just the board ends). Care must be taken not to drive screw heads too
far below the surface of the deck board creating a hole in which water will collect.
Depth guides are available for many drills which set the maximum depth a screw
can be driven. The most common screw for 2x pressure-treated decking is a
2
1
/2 inch multi-coated deck screw with a bugle head.
FASTENING DECK BOARDS WITH CLIPS
Deck clips are unseen from the top of the deck boards and
secure each deck board to the joists before the next board
is added. They are more expensive than nails or screws and
take quite a bit longer to install but they allow for a deck with
no fasteners to mar the surface. Since deck clips automatically
space the deck boards they should not be used with wet lumber as unacceptable
gaps between the boards may occur when the lumber finally dries and shrinks.
Snap a chalk line to use as a guide that is
independent of the house siding when laying
deck boards starting from the house.
When laying deck boards starting
at the front edge align the first
board with the header joist.
20
DECKING INSTALLATION
Decking can either be installed starting at the house or at the front of the deck.
The first board installed should be straight with no bow and aligned square with
the deck perpendicular to the joists. When installing boards by beginning at the
house, its a good idea to snap a chalk line to use as a guide for
the first board. There should be about a
1
/4 inch gap between
the house and the nearest board.
Spacing between the deck boards
should be kept at a minimum during
installation. This allows for shrinkage
as the boards season. It is recommended
that boards lightly touch as they are being
installed. The ideal board spacing for a
fully seasoned deck is about
1
/8 inch.
Each board is installed with two
fasteners (nails or screws) at each joist.
As courses of 5 or 6 boards are installed,
the measurement from the last board
installed to the far end of the deck
should be checked in order to keep the
decking straight and square with the deck.
Every load of decking lumber (no matter what kind) will have some
boards that cup, twist, or bow. Most boards can be straightened as they
are installed. For bowed boards the least bowed end of the board is fastened
first and the remaining length is forced over and fastened one joist at a time. If the curve
of the bowed board is too great to force over by hand a pry bar or other lever can be used.
Boards that were bowed before installation are seldom noticeable on the finished deck.
Cupped or twisted boards will usually level out with moderate pressure while they are being installed.
Those boards that will not flatten out should probably not be used for decking. Unlike a bowed board
that has been straightened, a severely cupped board will stand out on a finished deck and will most
likely get worse with time. These boards can be cut to shorter lengths and used on other parts of the
deck where the cupping or twisting will not be an issue.
A 2x4 can take the
place of a partial 2x6.
A 2x6 can take the place
of one and a half 2x4s.
DECKING EDGE OPTIONS
Decking flush with the outside joists.
Decking overhangs the outside joists.
Full height 1x facia board enclosure.
Facia boards are typically cut to a
45 miter at the corners.
1x facia board under decking overhang.
Combination 2x4 and 1x facia boards.
Front
Views
Cross
Sections
As courses of 5 or 6 boards are installed,
the measurement to the far end of the deck
should be checked in order to keep the
decking straight and square with the deck.
The first board closest to
the house can be precut
before installation.
Use a circular saw to trim board ends
as a group after installation.
21
Deck boards should be adjusted slightly over the course of the installation
to aim for a full board at the far end of the deck. If it looks as though
half a board width will be needed
for the last board, consider using
another width for that last board
rather than cutting (ripping) one
to the desired width.
Once all of the
decking boards have
been installed the edges
can be trimmed. The deck boards can be cut flush
with the outside joists or allowed to overhang by
as much as one inch. A straight edge or snapped
chalk line can be used as a guide for cutting the
deck boards as a group with a circular saw.
The saw blade should be set to cut
1
/8 inch
deeper than the thickness of the deck boards.
Areas where the circular saw cannot reach, like
the board closest to the house, can be finished
with a hand saw or cut to size before installation.
Perpendicular decking is installed
at a right angle to the house.
Header joists can be
joined with a two foot
length of joist backing.
Overlapping
joists must be
over a beam.
Joists can be attached
with joist hangers or nailed
through the outside joists.
Perpendicular decking is
ideal for long and narrow
porch style decks.
22
PERPENDICULAR DECKING
Decking which runs perpendicular to a
house requires the framing substructure
of the deck to be built at a 90 angle to
conventional deck framing. The joists
run parallel to the house and more
than one beam is required to support
the joists. Decks built this way must
follow the same joist, beam, and post
specifications called for in the
span tables.
One end of each beam could be
suspended on the house with a beam
hanger (similar to a joist hanger) but this
is seldom a good idea. Unlike a ledger board
which spreads the weight of the deck along its
entire length, beam hangers place the weight
of the deck in only a few concentrated areas.
A more effective approach is support posts
near the house creating a freestanding deck
that, for the most part, is independent of
the house. The beams, like joists on a
conventional deck, should slope away
1
/16 inch for every 1 foot out from
the house.
Shorter lengths of joists are often
used for perpendicular deck framing.
This requires the joists to overlap by
about one foot over a beam. The two
joists should be joined together at the
overlap with 10d nails. Care should be
taken that the deck framing stays level
over the beam.
DECKING OPTIONS
Picture framing can be installed along
the edges of all decking patterns.
Additional blocking is usually required.
Chevrons are an ideal pattern when
only short decking boards are available.
12 inch joist spacing and some
additional blocking is required.
Diagonal decking requires 12 inch
joist spacing. Decking installation
is started from the middle of the
deck with the longest boards.
A small piece of
1
/4 or
1
/2 inch
plywood makes a handy spacer
when butting perpendicular deck
boards against the house siding.
Joists installed between beams
require joist hangers for support.
The header joist is nailed
to the ends of the beams
with 16d nails.
23
JOISTS INSTALLED BETWEEN BEAMS
Joists can be installed between the beams to avoid having
overlaps or to accommodate a very low deck clearance.
Joist hangers are required to securely fasten the
joists to the beams. Care should be
taken to insure that the tops of
the beams and joists remain
at the exact same height to
avoid uneven deck boards.
Decks built with the joists
between the beams tend
to require greater joist
spans than the more
common cantilevered
decks. However, these decks must
follow the same joist, beam, and post
specifications called for in the span tables.
The ledger board on a deck with perpendicular decking does not carry
the weight of the deck as in a conventional deck frame. As such it does
not need to be secured as firmly to the house but should still be attached
to the house framing and not just the siding. Pressure-treated
plywood spacers are quite often used to hold the ledger
board
1
/2 to
3
/4 inches out from the house siding.
Perpendicular decking should not butt directly against the
house siding. A space of about
1
/4 to
1
/2 inch between the
siding and deck boards is ideal. A piece of
1
/4 or
1
/2 inch
plywood makes a good temporary spacer to place against
the house siding while installing the decking to create an even
gap along the board ends. The deck boards should be trimmed
square on the end going against the house and coated with
end-cut solution if pressure-treated. Pilot holes at board ends
should be drilled to prevent splitting while fastening.
Cleated Stringer Stairs
Notched Stringer Stairs
Platform Steps
24
STAIRS
The framing components of outdoor stairs should be built exclusively with incised
pressure-treated wood. Few parts of a deck receive the constant wear and tear of
stairsmaking the durability of the stair components a critical issue. Stair treads
are usually made from the same lumber as the decking boards. Its a good idea
to round off the leading edge of all stair treads to reduce wear
and prevent splintering over time.
PLATFORM STEPS
For total rises of less than 2 feet it is common to build
platform (or box) steps. These steps are popular as
continuous wraparound stairs for low level decks or as
platform risers toward an entry door.
The ideal height of an individual step is 6 to 7 inches.
The platforms illustrated here are made from 2x6 lumber
frames topped with 2x6 deck boards creating a 7 inch
step. Had these platforms been built on the bare joists (instead
of on top of the decking) the rise would only have been 5
1
/2
inches. Deck boards below a platform can run the entire length
of the platform or end at the first joist.
STAIR STRINGERS
Most stairs leading up to a deck require stair stringers (also known
as stair jacks). Stair stringers are either cleated or notched. Cleated
stringers are usually made from 2x10 or 2x12 pressure-treated
lumber. Cleated stringers with more than five steps and all
notched stringers require 2x12s. Cleats support the stair
treads on the stringer and can be made from galvanized
metal staircase angles or pressure-treated 2x4s.
Stairs for outdoor decks should be at least 36 inches wide.
Treads made from 2x lumber should not span 36 inches
without some additional support such as a middle stringer.
Measure deck
height from here.
Straight 2x4
4-Foot Level
Trim here for decking that
overhangs the edge joist.
Prepare a concrete or gravel landing area before
stringer layout and adjust the elevation to aim for
easily divided stair riser amounts.
Start with rise
at board end.
Framing
Square
Extend bottom rise and
run lines to mark cuts.
Extend top rise
line to mark cut.
Rise
Run
Two 2x6s for 11 inch treads.
Comfortable rise: about 7 inches.
One 2x6, two 2x4s for 12
1
/2 inch treads.
Comfortable rise: about 6
1
/2 inches.
Two 2x6s, one 2x4 for 14
1
/2 inch treads.
Comfortable rise: about 6 inches.
Three 2x6s for 16
1
/2 inch treads.
Comfortable rise: about 5
1
/2 inches.
STAIR TREAD PATTERNS
25
CLEATED STRINGER LAYOUT
1. To layout cleated stringers first determine
the number of steps needed by dividing
the deck height by the preferred rise of
each step (usually 6 to 7 inches). Use
a straight 2x4 and a 4-foot level to
measure the height of the deck at
the stair landing area.
2. Round this number off to an even
number of steps.
3. Divide the deck height by
the number of steps to get
the stair rise.
4. Choose a length for the tread run.
5. Starting with a rise measurement
at board end, use a
framing square to
mark the rise and
run for the number
of steps needed.
6. Cut off the stringer board
at the bottom rise and then
trim back along the run.
7. Trim at the top rise and coat
all cuts with end-cut solution.
8. Use the narrow arm of the framing
square (which is 1
1
/2 inches wide) to
mark the cleat locations 1
1
/2 inches
below the run lines.
9. Install metal cleats with 1
1
/4 inch lag screws.
Wood cleats can be secured with several
hot-dipped galvanized 8d nails or
2
1
/2 inch deck screws.
Notched stringer stairs
with deck as top step.
Notched stringer stairs
with top step at deck level.
Measure deck
height from here.
Straight 2x4
4-Foot Level
Start with rise
at board end.
Framing Square
Extend bottom
rise to mark cut.
Extend top rise
line to mark cut.
Mark bottom cut 1
1
/2 inches
above the bottom run line.
Use the first stringer cut as a template
to mark the remaining stringers.
Prepare a concrete or gravel
landing area before stringer
layout and adjust the
elevation to aim for easily
divided stair riser amounts.
26
The most conventional style of outdoor deck stairs have notched
(or cutout) stringers made from 2x12 pressure-treated lumber.
The top step of notched stringer stairs can be level with the
decking or one step down. Stringers that start one step
down from the decking usually require additional backing
support below the edge joist.
NOTCHED STRINGER LAYOUT
1. To layout notched stringers first determine
the number of steps needed by dividing the
deck height by the preferred rise of each step
(usually 6 to 7 inches). Use a straight 2x4 and a
4-foot level to measure the height of the deck at the
stair landing area.
2. Round this number off to an even number of steps.
3. Divide the deck height by the number of steps to get
the stair rise.
4. Choose a length for the tread run.
5. Starting with a rise measurement
at board end, use a framing
square to mark the rise and run
for the number of steps needed.
Add an additional tread run for
stairs that start at deck level.
6. Cut off the stringer board at
the bottom rise.
7. Trim the bottom 1
1
/2 inches above
the bottom run line.
8. Cut off board at the top rise and run.
9. Cut out the notches. Use a circular saw
but take care not to over-cut the inside
corners by finishing the cuts with a hand
saw. Coat all cut areas with end-cut solution.
Stair stringers should be firmly
anchored to the landing area.
Longer notched stringers require
reinforcement such as double stringers,
2x4 stiffeners, or intermediate posts.
Consult your local building department.
Backing support for a nailer installed below an edge joist
must be braced for lateral as well as downward forces.
2x6 nailer.
2x8 brace secured
to main joists or
blocking.
2x6 nailer. 2x6 braced
against beam.
Riser kick panels made
from 1x fence boards can
create a more finished
look to stairs.
Treads can overhang
edges by as much as
one inch.
Blocking should be installed if
the stringers run perpendicular
to the main joists.
Blocking is offset from
back of stringers.
Install angle brackets on
the inside corners where
they will be out of view.
For decking that overhangs the
edge joist add the width of the
overhang to the top run length.
Secure stringers from behind
the edge joist with 16d nails
or
1
/4x3
1
/2 inch lag bolts.
27
INSTALLATION OF STAIRS
Stringers that rest fully against an edge joist
can be toenailed into position with 10d nails
and then secured from behind the edge
joist with 16d nails or
1
/4x3
1
/2 inch lag
screws. Angle brackets can be installed
on the inside corners for added strength.
Blocking should be installed behind
the edge joist if the stringers run
perpendicular to the main joists.
When stringers only rest partially
against an edge joist it is
common to attach a 2x6 or
2x8 nailer below the edge
joist for added support.
The nailer is cut to the same
width as the stairs and is braced
for lateral as well as downward forces.
Stair treads are installed the same as deck
boards taking care to predrill board ends.
The leading edge of all stair treads should
be rounded off to reduce wear and prevent
splintering over time. Treads can overhang
edges by as much as one inch.
Railing Cap
Rail
Balusters
Railing Post
36"
minimum height.
4" maximum spacing
between components.
4x4 railing posts
notched to overhang
deck 1
1
/2 inches.
4x4 railing posts
corner-notched to
overhang deck
1
1
/2 inches.
A pair of 4x4 posts set back from
the corner are a stronger alternative
to a single corner-notched post.
Single corner-notched 4x4
railing post secured with two
pairs of
3
/8 inch lag screws.
Railing corner post variations.
(shown without railing caps)
28
RAILINGS
Most local codes require railings on decks that have a finished height above the
ground of 30 inches or more. The height of the railing cap needs to be at a
minimum 36 inches above the decking. Openings between the railing
components should be no larger than 4 inches.
Railings are usually made from the same type of lumber as the deck
boards. Its a good idea to set aside the lumber for the railings
when the wood for the deck first arrives and is sorted and stacked.
This is especially true for railing caps which should be made from
the choicest boards.
RAILING POSTS
Railing posts are commonly made from 4x4 pressure-treated lumber
that is notched on the bottom to overhang the deck 1
1
/2 inches.
Care should be taken to avoid over-cutting the inside corners while
notching posts. When using a circular saw to create the notches,
it is best to finish off the inside corners with a chisel.
Corner posts need to be corner-notched and can be cut with
a circular saw or purchased precut in pressure-treated wood.
Two posts that are set back from the corner are a stronger
alternative to a single corner-notched post. It is
common to bevel the bottoms of posts and
balusters for a softer look.
Offset bolt holes.
Secure top bolt and
recheck post for plumb
before drilling bottom hole.
Notch overhanging
deck boards at
post locations.
Install a piece of blocking
behind and just to the
side of post locations.
Edge Joist
Inner Joist
Single corner posts require two
pairs of lag screws and washers.
The pairs must be offset so as
not to interfere with each other.
29
RAILING POST INSTALLATION
Posts should not be installed immediately if they have a high moisture content.
Heavily saturated posts tend to dry unevenly after installation often causing cracks
and splits to appear in the wood. It is best to allow posts to air dry horizontally in
an area with good air flow for at least 23 weeks with periodic turning.
Railings on large decks and those with openings for stairs will need to have posts
installed every 4 to 6 feet to support a sturdy railing. Smaller balcony style decks
without stair openings can be built with only full length balusters and no posts.
1. Layout the railing posts with an equal spacing of about 5 feet.
2. Install a piece of support blocking behind the edge joist
and slightly to the side of each post location.
This is only necessary where the inner joists
run parallel to the outside edge joist.
3. Decking which overhangs the edge joists
will need to be notched flush with the edge
joist at all post locations. A jig saw works
best for cutting this notch in place on
the installed decking.
4. Plumb the posts into position with a
4-foot level and then drill only the top
hole. A
3
/8 inch auger or spade bit
should be used to drill completely
through the post and edge joist at the
same time with the post in position.
5. Insert a
3
/8 inch carriage bolt through the top hole
and hand tighten a single nut and washer onto the bolt.
6. Recheck the post for plumb before drilling the bottom
hole and securing with a carriage bolt, washer, and nut.
The bolt holes should be slightly offset to maximize holding
power and minimize the chance of splitting.
7. Tighten bolts only until the head of the carriage bolt is
drawn flush with the side surface of the post.
RAILING VARIATIONS
30
BALUSTER LAYOUT
The most common balusters are square 2x2s with an actual dimension of
1
1
/2 x1
1
/2 inches. The maximum space between balusters is 4 inches.
1. Measure the distance between the railing posts then add 1
1
/2 inches.
2. Divide that number by 5
1
/2 inches (1
1
/2 inch baluster plus 4 inch space).
3. Round this number up to the nearest whole number.
4. Divide the distance between posts (plus the 1
1
/2 inches) by the whole number.
5. This measurement marks the right side of each baluster when measured from
the left. (Subtract 1
1
/2 inches from this number to create a spacing jig.)
BALUSTER INSTALLATION
Balusters are best cut on a power miter saw or radial arm saw
where a jig can be set up to assure accurate consistent cuts.
The cut balusters can be lined up side-by-side and
marked for predrilling as a group. A snapped chalk
line or straight edge and pencil can be used.
When predrilling, offset and angle the nail
holes in toward the center of the baluster.
Two 8d casing nails should be used at
each end of a 2x2 baluster. Having two
nails at each end prevents the railing unit
from skewing as it would if pivoting on
single nails.
Railing designs which incorporate a lower
rail may be built as sectional ladders
horizontally on a flat surface and then
installed between the posts.
Railing sections with a lower rail may be
built as sectional ladders and then installed
between the posts as a single unit.
Baluster Layout Example
53" between railing posts
1. 53" + 1.5" = 54.5"
2. 54.5" 5.5" = 9.9"
3. 9.9" rounds up to 10"
4. 54.5" 10" = 5.45"
5. Measure over 5.45"
Two 8d nails at each baluster
will prevent the balusters
twisting on this style of railing.
Top rails will be covered
with the railing cap.
A plywood spacing jig
makes quick work of
installing balusters with
perfect spacing.
STAIR RAILING VARIATIONS
3438 inches
measured from
front of treads.
Avoid difficult railing cap angle
transitions by securing the stair railing
cap to the side of the top post.
Spacing between
balusters should not be
larger than 4 inches.
Stair railing posts can be installed flush to
the outside of the stair stringers or notched
to overhang the stair treads 1
1
/2 inches.
31
RAILING CAPS
Most railing caps are made from 2x4 or 2x6 lumber. Railing caps wider than a
2x6 tend to cup with time due to weathering. The lumber used for the railing
caps should be straight and have a low moisture content at the time of installation.
Railing caps are usually secured to the posts or top rails with 10d casing nails or
finish head screws. The fasteners can be set in pairs to help prevent the railing
cap from rocking loose with time. Mitered corners on railing caps should be
joined with finish nails and cut to fit easily together without force.
STAIR RAILINGS
Stair railings are usually required on stairs of three or more steps. The ideal height
for a stair railing or handrail is between 34 and 38 inches as measured from the
front of each step.
Stair railing posts can be notched to overhang the
stairs but are quite often installed flush to prevent
the top post from being double-notched.
Balusters on stair railings can be spaced the
same as those on the deck railings or
installed to align with each stair rise.
The spaces between balusters can
be no more than 4 inches.
Stair railing caps are best made
from 2x4 lumber or a vertically
placed 2x6 to allow for a safe and
comfortable hand grip. An alternative
is to install a separate round or oval
handrail next to the stair railing cap.
It is usually best to avoid the often difficult
and awkward transition between the angled
stair railing cap and the level deck railing cap
by securing the stair railing cap directly to the
side of the top railing post.
32
FINISHING
A high quality wood sealer or water repellent should be applied immediately
upon completing a deck, provided the wood is dry. Water repellents ght
moisture from rain, snow, and ice. The old adage that a deck should be left
to season for three months or so before sealing has proven to be unwise.
The Forest Product Laboratory of the USDA has found that not coating
a deck immediately after construction reduces the average life of the
wood by 20%.
Its the weathering cycle of wood repeatedly becoming wet then
drying out again which accelerates the woods natural tendency
to check, crack, split, cup, and warp. Since these are natural
characteristics, no warranty can be given to ensure that
they do not occur to an outdoor project. However,
a high quality water repellent signicantly reduces
the damage caused by the weathering cycle.
Water repellents are most effectively applied
with a brush in a single coat. Spray systems are
handy for large decks and underside areas. Paint
rollers tend to apply too much water repellent
leading to a sticky surface film that refuses to
dry and can ultimately crack or peel.
MAINTENANCE
Deck surfaces should be kept clean and free of
debris. Dirt, gravel, and sand must be regularly swept
off the deck as they can quickly wear down the water
repellent (especially where the deck receives heavy foot traffic).
When rain water stops beading up on the deck its time to re-coat the deck with
water repellentabout every 1 to 2 years depending on the decks environment and usage.
Badly weathered decks may need a brightener/restorer (sodium percarbonate) applied before
resealing to remove mold, mildew, and algae as well as dirt. Household bleach is not recommended.
Splitting
Cupping
Warping
Checking
All wood exposed to the outdoors has a natural tendency
to check, split, cup, or warp. By applying a high quality water
repellent every 1 to 2 years, the likelihood of these common
effects (caused by extremes in weather) is greatly reduced.
Safety Items:
Dust Mask
Safety Glasses
Waterproof Work Gloves
Hand Tools:
Tape Measure/Pencil
Claw Hammer
4-Foot Level
Angle Square
Framing Square
Chalk Line
Chisel
Nail Set
Plumb Bob
Ratcheting Socket Wrench
Shovel/Spade
Clamshell Post Hole Digger
Power Tools:
Circular Saw
Power Drill
Power Miter Saw
Saber/Jig Saw
Pressure-Treated Wood:
2x4 Deck Boards/Railings
2x6 Deck Boards/Railings
2x8 End Joists
2x10 End Joists/Stair Stringers
2x12 Stair Stringers
4x4 Railing Posts
2x2 Railing Balusters
1
/2" CDX Plywood
3
/4" CDX Plywood
Incised Pressure-Treated Wood:
2x6 Joists
2x8 Joists
2x10 Joists
2x12 Stair Stringers
4x4 Deck Posts
4x6 Deck Posts/Beams
4x8 Beams
4x10 Beams
4x12 Beams
6x6 Deck Posts
Other Wood:
1x Facia Boards
Deck Boards
Railing Posts
Railing Balusters
Railing Caps/Handrails
Hot-Dipped Galvanized or
Stainless Steel Fasteners:
Lag Screws/Washers
Hex-head Bolts/Nuts/Washers
Carriage Bolts/Nuts/Washers
Casing/Finish Nails
Common Nails
Box Nails
Joist Hanger Nails
Flashing
Concrete Anchors
J-Bolts/Nuts/Washers
Other Fasteners:
Coated Deck Screws
Deck Clips
Connectors:
Post Base Connectors
Post-To-Beam Connectors
Joist Hangers
Angle Brackets
Seismic Ties
Foundation Materials:
Landscape Fabric
Precut Wood Stakes
Precast Pier Blocks
Rebar
PVC Pipe
Premixed Concrete
Fiberboard Form Tubes
Plastic Sheathing
Sealers and Stains:
Brushes/Sprayers
End-Cut Solution
Exterior Stain
Silicone Caulking/Gun
Wood Sealer/Water Repellent
Check for tools, lumber, and materials you may need on your deck project.